On the topic of stifling creativity.... I feel like there's a pretty long history of artists who, in fact, make WORSE art when they're given unlimited freedom to do whatever they want. Which isn't to say that freedom inherently produces worse art, but I'm using that to preface: Even aside from teaching raw skills, the restrictions put upon students generally aren't about "stifling" creativity, but trying to INSPIRE it. Like, if a fashion school student has zero interest in designing accessories and they're forced to design accessories as part of an assignment, that's not "stifling" their "creative" desire to work on other projects, it's trying to force them to be creative and find something interesting to do with accessories. Forcing artists to negotiate and problem solve around things they DON'T want to do is a means of STRENGTHENING their creative muscles, not suppressing their "creative" desire to just... do whatever they want. And certainly there's going to be circumstances where a particular school or particular program or particular professor is, unfortunately, actually going to stifle people's creativity. I'm not saying that it doesn't happen ever. But I feel like... Students themselves often can't have enough distance or perspective to actually determine if that's what they're experiencing.
Honestly, it's a great take, I haven't heard this POV before but I have always noticed that the people who complain a lot about being made to study something like impressionism tend to only stick to "their style" and their art making abilities typically stagnate later on in the course when they get to do what they want. Whereas the people who despite not necessarily wanting to do the impressionism study tried their best anyway would go on to create amazing pieces. Obviously like you said there's exceptions but overall I think a lot of people get caught up in what they want to do instead of broadening the options that they want to do.
That bit about education and schooling was so well put, saving to send to friends. I was in stem and had a lot of good friends in the arts and sometimes their last two brain cells would really cook like this and come up with a beautiful way to explain or describe a subject.
I think it's also a way of preserving the culture of the brand, and when someone is able to "buy in" to that culture (especially when you may have aspired to it for so long) the reward has a better feeling. However, that buy-in has become absurd, and many don't even ATTEMPT to justify
Honestly this is why I love this channel. The incredibly detailed fashion analysis videos that are truly made by love are one thing but these heartfelt, fresh views on the industry is just so refreshing and what makes this channel special for me.
That means a lot to me! We try as hard as we can to make every minute on this channel as info rich as possible. We are always open to feedback so we can improve, but encouragement means a lot as well.
As a fashion student struggling with 1/8th off stitches but also someone who is on her third degree students NEED to understand that in order to do incredible things you MUST master the basics. If you feel that you are not doing well enough PRACTICE. The semester is almost over for me and my entire summer plan is to drape and sew and start reading patternmaking books because I want to excel and be better. This is something that comes with maturity though, I see that most of the kids in my classroom are hot headed and jump to the hardest things when 90% of them weren't able to drape the beginning of the semester bodices!
The issue of people spending tons of money on bags/accessories while wearing it with fast fashion items is a touchy subject, somewhat not explored online at all, because it would bruise egos of a lot of people. The whole issue with quite luxury and old money came along because absolute majority of people genuinely thought that designer clothes are hoodies/tshirts and bags with logos, and nothing else, and many suddenly realised that fashion brands produce jackets, coats, trousers, etc, and there are people who buy and wear them. Many think that fashion shows a like Pinterest, and none of it is produced (LOL).
Your statements about fashion education (TOOLS for expression, building facility in craft, the fact that the end product must be and feel whole and transformative) touch on a distinction that I think of as "clothes vs props."
I’m in a place where I can appreciate the beauty of high fashion without caring about the price attached. Just learning about how brands communicate through their models and fashion fills me with a sense of fulfillment. Thank you for the fashion education on your wonderful channel
as someone who has taken some fashion classes (not good ones because there's no fashion school where I live) and is hoping to go to fashion school I would like to say thank you so so so much for saying what you said. there were so many people who came in and made garments that had unfinished seams, the hems were sloppy at best, and they didn't fit, but the clothes "fit their artistic vision" and so they got great critique from the class and the professor got terrible reviews when she would say the garment wasn't finished. Then my work would be called boring when I would turn in a well tailored pant with a nice flat felled seam (which I personally think is much more attractive than any amount of bows and lace) and everyone would get mad when the professor liked my work. It gets so frustrating to see these people now "starting brands" on instagram while I'm trying so hard to save up to move to Milan and learn everything I need to to build something beautiful on a strong foundation. Sorry this is such a rambling mess of run on sentences, Im using text to speech from behind my sewing machine, practice is the only way to improve.
I think people buying these things are just really, really rich and don't have much concern about the price. It would be comparable to someone with our income going out and buying the top end gourmet frozen pizza instead of the store brand.
Ohmygod thank you for saying those things about what a lit degree means and about what fashion school teaches! I'm an art professor, and art school does the same thing. An art degree gives you the tools to think critically about everything. And we teach the basics of art for a reason. They might feel monotonous and boring at times, but they will help you become a better artist. Love the video as always!
I can’t agree more with GBS’ work. As a design student obsessed and devoted to quality, I look up to him. Enough so that I’m basing my final degree project on his business model but for footwear - my personal take on it at least. The only model I deem acceptable for exclusivity is one where quality reflects price and production quantity. Would love to hear people’s take
In January 2024, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the new creative director of Moschino, he showed his first collection on Feb 22 at Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2024
Rarity equates to value and therefore status, this concept has been used in human cultures for centuries but especially since the rise of the free market. Diamonds for example are a classic case study in how companies manipulate rarity through both withholding supply and retail price. The idea of pricing high is a way of creating rarity, generally the more expensive the less of the item is made and the more exclusive it becomes as only the wealthy can afford it. This creates an aspiration amongst a wider customer base to own something attached to the brand. Enter sunglasses, fragrances, wallets, bags, cosmetics etc which are the entry level products that the money is made from. The entire fashion industry is leveraged off the human need to signal status through adornment.
The articulation of your opinions is impeccable! I’ve also never watched/listened to someone that has the same takes as me. Balancing realistic ideals thru an artistic lens is very rare nowadays & you’re one of the few critics that actually feel like “critique” is an art form Thank you💙
That last rant told me a lot about you, if I'm not talking out of my ass by accident, and it's definitively something I'm subscribing to hear more about
I started been aware of fashion on medical school. I always thought we could get better fitting scrubs , more flattering silhouettes and above all, ironing. This is my pet hate, most scrubs at the hospital are not properly ironed and it still annoyed me. I have an iron at work so I m always well ironed.
man you are so right about the proper tailoring thing, I always see people make super oversize stuff right off the bat and they dont look wearable at all
17:58 ♡ this was so sweet This episode was amazing, i always learn something new and i enjoy the effort and the passion you two put in this project. 🇦🇷♡
I think that's such great advice for students. Quality teachers try and help you expand your toolbox, whether it be from a technical, conceptual, or other perspective. Blindly resisting because it might make you momentarily uncomfortable or hurts your ego ultimately does a disservice to yourself and the time/resources you are spending to learn.
The ending of this video is worth thousands of dollars in therapy. The thing that is hard to understand when you are young is that there is a difference between "questioning authority" and "chafing at responsibility". They can often feel the same but one is motivated by curiosity and the other is motivated by vanity. Really really really wish I understood this better when I was a kid.
a parallel about authority figures in fashion school; I had a huge issue with my educators in art school telling me what to do, particularly in the early days I could not stand it when i wanted to do something I percieved as out of the box it was shut down and 'restricted', and I kept feeling like I was being forced to do something that wasn't who i was artistically, but WOW WOW WOW do i benefit from it now. essentially being forced to listen and learn stuff that at the time I disgregarded really really benefits my work now. all of the tiny skills one would otherwise think are not entirely necessary (skills i may have never ended up learning if I didn't go to institutions) make my work better. you need to learn the rules first before you break them.
The perceptions and related behavior are so fascinating. In addition to the brands at the top of this strategy, it’s interesting to consider the brands that have pivoted and/or are navigating the boundaries between exclusivity and accessibility.
Oh! That's such a coincidence. My first degree before coming to the US was literature, with emphasis in Latin (the old Latin), and then English. I tell my 14yo son that literature is a great secret weapon that can be used in basically any field. Only in my 30s I went to fashion school already here in the USA
What's differences about the fashion week of Paris & New York?.. Live in the USA why sometimes do a full length summary coverage of New York fashion week?.. New York Fashion Week are more uninterested go to? for a fashion week?
love the part about listening to your teachers. My favorite teacher in art school was very direct and was celebrated for her bold work. She made people cry with her honest critiques but at the end of the day she was right about everything. As a student who didn't know a damn thing, it wouldn't have helped me to question anything she did defensively since she had already achieved they type of success I was looking for. To this day Im very grateful to her explaining the industry and helping me get ahead of everyone else.
I have an English degree also. I actually chose an English degree because I felt like literature is much more accurate than history or math or science 😘 everything has a story and I appreciate fashion as an expression of the creative narrative of the time space/ space time energy💜
6:40, with me I see the 9k acid green bottgea jacket in saks and say: 4k for that canon camera is not so bad. I see other things that I can get more use from as not so expensive.
Fashion school is great! You need to know the rules to know how to break them. Knowing the right way to construct a garment, to cut a pattern, etc... you need to know what works and why those rules work. Learn the basic
Bliss, I assure you many professor live by ‘those that can’t do- teach’ many art school teachers were very limited in their view points. Of course the basic and foundation classes in details must be achieved but from experience professors can easily feel threatened and talk students out of their creativity.
Bliss sorry to contradict you, Hermes sell in London in the UK, in Selfridges, the department store. BTW love your content, always learn a tonne and it’s fascinating, so thank you ❤ !!
The real geniuses are the people who put the clothes together. As a person who designs and constructs my own stuff, I know most, not all, designers don't even know themselves how those pieces will be put together and don't really give directions on how to construct them. Again, not all designers are like that
Hi bliss, just stumbled on your channel after looking at utube analysis of award season. Pretty much totally ignorant of fashion but got interested in how they could immediately reference styles, history etc gave me a glimpse into another world, so being curious had to know more very pleased I found your channel as this is exactly what you do! Very interesting learning about a foriegn world. Interested in how hotoure I'm sure that not spelling translates into ready to wear or are they very different concepts
Fantastic video and advice to all Aspiring Creatives Bliss! Many times it seems as people who ended in top positions magically got there but the reality is that it takes years and a lot of learning and tell you what to and not do point and case Lee Mc Queen. When it comes to Exclusivity maybe here in the United States where we kind of don't have a class system we expect accessibility to many things where in Europe and other parts of the World class systems excist and certain things are for certain people, not everybody.
1:35 It turns out though that they don't want to show how it's made because it's made by a subcontractor in a 24-hour facility near Milan and they are charging €57 for it.
Mcqueen is the only house that I can think of, that doesn't relly on beauty products to keep up their margins and profits which I find rather interesting since even very very high exclusivity-based brands like Hermes have perfumes and etc. spread across every retailer you can think of.
under Sarah Burton, they did market their brands, shoes and accessories a lot though. I was speaking to the retail staff on the clothes, however, and it seems that a lot of orders come from tailored RTW jackets for businesswomen
its a Kering problem - all brands they bought licensed their beauty products away before the purchase, and YSL, Balenciaga, McQueen, Bottega, Gucci do not control their beauty/perfume lines at all, just get license income. I think they are loosing humongous money, and if YSL Beauty were under Kering, they would have made tons of money with Slimane's perfume line, or Demna's Balenciaga could have released something extravagant.
@@burgersuperkingKering launched kering beauty in early 2023, I think they'll release their first perfume soon for Bottega Veneta. We can expect most brands of the group to be brought back in-house. Except for YSL because l'Oreal owns the YSL-Beauty brand. And they also just bought Creed.
Hilarious, FY peasant was completely great line, 55 yrs of virtual viewer of fashion. And it’s pretty! None in my life and not any worse for it. 1st time see you and love ya. Hermes, Orange Poppy, my only acquisition, Love my nails! ❤❤❤
Outside of learning the basis also in design school they have to put a criteria in place for projects you can’t just make whatever you want. Learn how to use the restrictions as a challenge to think outside the box while remaining in the box to fulfill the criteria for said project
Extending on your point about brands making a 15k coat to create a sense of awe and intrigue: Car brands do this too. Who gets to buy the 500k Mercedes? Very few. But then they leverage that awe and intrigue (and manufacturing prowess) into selling a ton of A-class and C-class cars for relatively normal prices. Additionally, Ferrari does the same thing as Hermes and Rolex. You have to be an established customer to get access to the newest/best/rarest models. All this to say, this stuff is not unique to the fashion industry, so hopefully that eases the sting people feel when they hear about this.
i am planning to go to fashion school for fashion desgin in a year and the only way my parents allowed it is if i promised to start my won brand and the truth really helps to undertand what i am committing. thak you thank you thank you to
From what I understand, the huge price point is a reflection of the brand's fame and mystique, but not a huge price point based on the clothing or accessories quality itself. People buy Rolex for the name. People buy Ferrari for the name. People buy Hermes for the name. Consumers want to be noticed wearing what culture deems is dope or exclusive. The mega price points really are a reflection of the exclusivity of the brand's products.
a brand doing an seemingly outrageous thing, like a super high price point, is sometimes about signalling to 2 groups. in/out groups. as much as the brand wants to excite the in-group; the people who get it, winding up the out-group; the people who don’t like any of it and are already angry about something else, is also useful. both groups talk about the thing, so the word spreads. it doesn’t matter than you pissed off the out-group, they weren’t going to buy the thing anyway
business terms: in/out groups (your customers and definitely not your customers), signalling (saying ‘this is who we are’) purple cow (‘oh look, that’s weird’) positioning (‘that lipstick seems cheaper now it’s sitting next to that way more expensive thing) 👍
How I love your analysis Bliss & Daniela.. so much gives me information that didn't know about yet and for that thank you.. more power and bless you both.. and I have a question.. for Bliss & Daniela if we take out of those fashion designers residentially in a fashion week of Paris, Milan, London & New York, do you have any looking forward fashion designer outside of those big four of fashion week to interview or get close to thier designs?
As per your fast fashion 🤝 designer comment, I had a design teacher tell us once, 'if you pair a fast fashion shoe with a high end designer coat/garment, it will never work. You'll drag the value down. But if you do the opposite - high end quality shoes and a fast fashion outfit, everyone will wonder what niche designer you're wearing' 😂 Even fashion people know that the perception of quality is questionable at best for garments but good shoes/accessories is where the real signifiers are. Queue in Hermes and their bags, Rolex and their watches. If you can spend that much on the 'smaller' things (even the hypothetical $90 lipstick), nobody will question the value of the bigger things. Fashion psychology 101, lol. Interesting video Bliss, also, literary book recommendations when?
For most brands we can assume that they make no money on a 12k$ coat just because the number they will sell of that piece is so small. It won't make back the money they spent on the whole creation process. I think we have broadly two ways of exclusivity. On hand we have the ''fake'' exclusivity like supreme or Rolex (talking about the steel modells) for example those products aren't that luxurious for the most part its just a huge amount of hype and a big brand behind them. Even if you have the money you can't just buy it and they could produce a lot more if they wanted to. And we have real luxury the classic old luxury brand where the only reason if your not getting is that you can't afford it. No one is stoping you from buying it you don't need to build up a history with brand and that bs, like you go into the store pay for what ever you want and walk out with your stuff doesn't matter if you're there for the first or 100th time.
Bliss I wanted to say I loved hearing about you and your wife's liberal arts/polisci backgrounds for 2 reasons! 1) It finally clarified to me what sets your channel apart and why I enjoy your videos so much -- aside from your humorous and conversational delivery, your videos have an element of deep analysis that illuminates fashion from a vantage point that's not available anywhere else on youtube. 2) I'm glad you shone some light on the intangible benefits of these kinds of majors, which while don't always feed directly into a high-salary career path, provide intangible benefits in the form of critical thinking that truly elevates a person's perspective.
I thought price was indicative of quality fabric and honed techniques. I'm just too old, I guess, to help build a designer's 'world'. If I ever wanted to do that, I'd open my Sims app (that was boring). Is there a "chicness" behind a $15k coat? Once, long ago, a person could smell quality on a person (ok, i exaggerate). People knew what quality looked like indoor and out. Today, there is so much plastic in everything that it is difficult to discern whether it is expensive or throw-away style. That isn't a comment on the substance, but on what is quality today. Now it seems you have to be over top in design to get someone to notice. Was that the desire of the designer in the last century? Yes, partly, this lady thinks. It was surely the desire of many customers. So, the fashion world is an exclusive one. No new news to those who can't afford it. American ingenuity gave us throw-away fashion so we can "renew" our closets on a whim. I don't see that as a win for the masses (tho my twenty year old self would be ecstatic). Back to quality, what is quality polyester? What is quality acrylic? Are they so close it doesn't matter? Who has the tools to manipulate plastic? Is that an art, a science or a stunt? Maybe all three? Is there a quality to that? Even if, in the future, a customer could create an ensemble out of spools of plastic, is it a good idea? I could talk about this all day, but thank you Bliss, for giving us the chance to comment. 😊
Interestingly, my mom and I had a long talk about the way Rolex, Hermes and Ferrari have that same barrier to exclusivity today. They went to Thailand and saw all these shops selling fake designer items 2 stores away from Louis Vuitton and how that works. LV and other brands don’t much care about these because they know how we are as consumers have been trained by brands. They may be identical to the point where strangers would think the fake bag is real, but, we still want the thought of owning a real one. The people that go to these fake stores would not be able to afford the real thing and those who can will. To up that, you could throw all the money at Hermes and they still won’t give you the opportunity to buy a Birkin. They want you to be a loyal customer and then they allow you to get this exclusive bag for a lot of money. It’s all about creating an imagine and it fuels people to ‘earn’ that imagine. Sure you can buy a 2nd hand Birkin, but it’s not the same as buying a couple of things, maintaining a relationship with the SAs and then being given the opportunity. It makes you feel different and that is wht these brands want when you see those outrageous prices. My mom was floored knowing you have to earn the right to pay these brands tens of thousands of dollars. If everyone with money could get it, it wouldn’t be as cool and exclusive.
I agree with bliss I'm exactly like him it took a long time to understand that i need to let peoples tell me even if they are being assholes learn from them and practice though i was never rude to my teachers in fashion school and that's because i came from a poor family and learned to respect teachers cause my mother was one and i paid out of pocket master your base and expand on it when your out there like bliss said grow the F up its true :)
*ITS WAY EASIER* to have $15,000 of actual VALUE in a coat than it is $15,000 of value in a Rolex. QUOTE "904L stainless steel is a unique and highly valuable material that Rolex uses". NO ITS NOT its 904L its $3.66 per kg. The movement is mostly made by CNC machine and the Chinese clones are identical for $500. The coat is likely to be had spun, hand woven fabric in tiny quantities by artizans keeping alive a tradition, its hand made by skilled tailors. ---> There are probably $8,000 of wages in the $15k coat
Showing THAT Hussein Chalayan show and timing the phrase "the ways in which things make meaning" to coincide with the unveiling of that dress is 🤌🏽🤌🏽 chef's kiss baby
Hey everyone, I need help finding a fashion designer who had an interesting way of making leather in which he would inflict pain on the animal to give it a kind of visual effect. Which designer was it and which episode did Bliss talk about it?? Please help 😭😭😭
Fashion teacher here : THANK YOU!!! I feel so understood finally
On the topic of stifling creativity....
I feel like there's a pretty long history of artists who, in fact, make WORSE art when they're given unlimited freedom to do whatever they want.
Which isn't to say that freedom inherently produces worse art, but I'm using that to preface: Even aside from teaching raw skills, the restrictions put upon students generally aren't about "stifling" creativity, but trying to INSPIRE it. Like, if a fashion school student has zero interest in designing accessories and they're forced to design accessories as part of an assignment, that's not "stifling" their "creative" desire to work on other projects, it's trying to force them to be creative and find something interesting to do with accessories. Forcing artists to negotiate and problem solve around things they DON'T want to do is a means of STRENGTHENING their creative muscles, not suppressing their "creative" desire to just... do whatever they want.
And certainly there's going to be circumstances where a particular school or particular program or particular professor is, unfortunately, actually going to stifle people's creativity. I'm not saying that it doesn't happen ever. But I feel like... Students themselves often can't have enough distance or perspective to actually determine if that's what they're experiencing.
Honestly, it's a great take, I haven't heard this POV before but I have always noticed that the people who complain a lot about being made to study something like impressionism tend to only stick to "their style" and their art making abilities typically stagnate later on in the course when they get to do what they want. Whereas the people who despite not necessarily wanting to do the impressionism study tried their best anyway would go on to create amazing pieces.
Obviously like you said there's exceptions but overall I think a lot of people get caught up in what they want to do instead of broadening the options that they want to do.
That bit about education and schooling was so well put, saving to send to friends. I was in stem and had a lot of good friends in the arts and sometimes their last two brain cells would really cook like this and come up with a beautiful way to explain or describe a subject.
I think it's also a way of preserving the culture of the brand, and when someone is able to "buy in" to that culture (especially when you may have aspired to it for so long) the reward has a better feeling. However, that buy-in has become absurd, and many don't even ATTEMPT to justify
Honestly this is why I love this channel. The incredibly detailed fashion analysis videos that are truly made by love are one thing but these heartfelt, fresh views on the industry is just so refreshing and what makes this channel special for me.
That means a lot to me! We try as hard as we can to make every minute on this channel as info rich as possible. We are always open to feedback so we can improve, but encouragement means a lot as well.
As a fashion student struggling with 1/8th off stitches but also someone who is on her third degree students NEED to understand that in order to do incredible things you MUST master the basics. If you feel that you are not doing well enough PRACTICE. The semester is almost over for me and my entire summer plan is to drape and sew and start reading patternmaking books because I want to excel and be better. This is something that comes with maturity though, I see that most of the kids in my classroom are hot headed and jump to the hardest things when 90% of them weren't able to drape the beginning of the semester bodices!
The issue of people spending tons of money on bags/accessories while wearing it with fast fashion items is a touchy subject, somewhat not explored online at all, because it would bruise egos of a lot of people. The whole issue with quite luxury and old money came along because absolute majority of people genuinely thought that designer clothes are hoodies/tshirts and bags with logos, and nothing else, and many suddenly realised that fashion brands produce jackets, coats, trousers, etc, and there are people who buy and wear them. Many think that fashion shows a like Pinterest, and none of it is produced (LOL).
Your statements about fashion education (TOOLS for expression, building facility in craft, the fact that the end product must be and feel whole and transformative) touch on a distinction that I think of as "clothes vs props."
I’m in a place where I can appreciate the beauty of high fashion without caring about the price attached. Just learning about how brands communicate through their models and fashion fills me with a sense of fulfillment. Thank you for the fashion education on your wonderful channel
as someone who has taken some fashion classes (not good ones because there's no fashion school where I live) and is hoping to go to fashion school I would like to say thank you so so so much for saying what you said. there were so many people who came in and made garments that had unfinished seams, the hems were sloppy at best, and they didn't fit, but the clothes "fit their artistic vision" and so they got great critique from the class and the professor got terrible reviews when she would say the garment wasn't finished. Then my work would be called boring when I would turn in a well tailored pant with a nice flat felled seam (which I personally think is much more attractive than any amount of bows and lace) and everyone would get mad when the professor liked my work. It gets so frustrating to see these people now "starting brands" on instagram while I'm trying so hard to save up to move to Milan and learn everything I need to to build something beautiful on a strong foundation. Sorry this is such a rambling mess of run on sentences, Im using text to speech from behind my sewing machine, practice is the only way to improve.
It sounds like you gave solid priorities. Keep up the good work 💫💫
I think people buying these things are just really, really rich and don't have much concern about the price. It would be comparable to someone with our income going out and buying the top end gourmet frozen pizza instead of the store brand.
Ohmygod thank you for saying those things about what a lit degree means and about what fashion school teaches! I'm an art professor, and art school does the same thing. An art degree gives you the tools to think critically about everything. And we teach the basics of art for a reason. They might feel monotonous and boring at times, but they will help you become a better artist. Love the video as always!
I can’t agree more with GBS’ work. As a design student obsessed and devoted to quality, I look up to him. Enough so that I’m basing my final degree project on his business model but for footwear - my personal take on it at least. The only model I deem acceptable for exclusivity is one where quality reflects price and production quantity. Would love to hear people’s take
If you look up to GBS, you are really really really really really going to like an interview that we have coming up soon :)
Omg i almost done my French degree focusing on literature and I want to work in fashion. You just gave me so much hope
In January 2024, Adrian Appiolaza was appointed as the new creative director of Moschino, he showed his first collection on Feb 22 at Milan Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2024
Rarity equates to value and therefore status, this concept has been used in human cultures for centuries but especially since the rise of the free market. Diamonds for example are a classic case study in how companies manipulate rarity through both withholding supply and retail price.
The idea of pricing high is a way of creating rarity, generally the more expensive the less of the item is made and the more exclusive it becomes as only the wealthy can afford it. This creates an aspiration amongst a wider customer base to own something attached to the brand. Enter sunglasses, fragrances, wallets, bags, cosmetics etc which are the entry level products that the money is made from. The entire fashion industry is leveraged off the human need to signal status through adornment.
The articulation of your opinions is impeccable!
I’ve also never watched/listened to someone that has the same takes as me. Balancing realistic ideals thru an artistic lens is very rare nowadays & you’re one of the few critics that actually feel like “critique” is an art form
Thank you💙
“is this too much?” “no!” 😂😂😂
I hope the people who want to learn from this channel realize this man cares.
please, a moment to just appreciate all the work these two do foor this channel! I just discovered you but man, have you learned me a lot!
That last rant told me a lot about you, if I'm not talking out of my ass by accident, and it's definitively something I'm subscribing to hear more about
I started been aware of fashion on medical school. I always thought we could get better fitting scrubs , more flattering silhouettes and above all, ironing. This is my pet hate, most scrubs at the hospital are not properly ironed and it still annoyed me. I have an iron at work so I m always well ironed.
man you are so right about the proper tailoring thing, I always see people make super oversize stuff right off the bat and they dont look wearable at all
i had never noticed. the banner for your youtube channel is stunning. good copy, too.
17:58 ♡ this was so sweet
This episode was amazing, i always learn something new and i enjoy the effort and the passion you two put in this project.
🇦🇷♡
I think that's such great advice for students. Quality teachers try and help you expand your toolbox, whether it be from a technical, conceptual, or other perspective. Blindly resisting because it might make you momentarily uncomfortable or hurts your ego ultimately does a disservice to yourself and the time/resources you are spending to learn.
I don’t always like before watching the video but when i do, its a Bliss Foster video
The ending of this video is worth thousands of dollars in therapy. The thing that is hard to understand when you are young is that there is a difference between "questioning authority" and "chafing at responsibility". They can often feel the same but one is motivated by curiosity and the other is motivated by vanity. Really really really wish I understood this better when I was a kid.
a parallel about authority figures in fashion school; I had a huge issue with my educators in art school telling me what to do, particularly in the early days I could not stand it when i wanted to do something I percieved as out of the box it was shut down and 'restricted', and I kept feeling like I was being forced to do something that wasn't who i was artistically, but WOW WOW WOW do i benefit from it now. essentially being forced to listen and learn stuff that at the time I disgregarded really really benefits my work now.
all of the tiny skills one would otherwise think are not entirely necessary (skills i may have never ended up learning if I didn't go to institutions) make my work better. you need to learn the rules first before you break them.
The perceptions and related behavior are so fascinating. In addition to the brands at the top of this strategy, it’s interesting to consider the brands that have pivoted and/or are navigating the boundaries between exclusivity and accessibility.
Love the passion answering these questions. Respect
Bonwit Teller distributed Hermes while they were around and every time I find a cobranded piece online it makes me scream.
this is my favorite fashion channel now
16:45 till the end are very good words that a lot of people should listen more
Oh! That's such a coincidence. My first degree before coming to the US was literature, with emphasis in Latin (the old Latin), and then English. I tell my 14yo son that literature is a great secret weapon that can be used in basically any field. Only in my 30s I went to fashion school already here in the USA
The greatest stand-by creative director I would say is Yves Saint Laurent, he worked with Christian Dior and took over the house upon Dior’s death.
What's differences about the fashion week of Paris & New York?..
Live in the USA why sometimes do a full length summary coverage of New York fashion week?.. New York Fashion Week are more uninterested go to? for a fashion week?
love the part about listening to your teachers. My favorite teacher in art school was very direct and was celebrated for her bold work. She made people cry with her honest critiques but at the end of the day she was right about everything. As a student who didn't know a damn thing, it wouldn't have helped me to question anything she did defensively since she had already achieved they type of success I was looking for. To this day Im very grateful to her explaining the industry and helping me get ahead of everyone else.
Okay...but the jack at 27s is something I've been low key looking for. Like the one worn by Lisa in Gone Girl
I have an English degree also. I actually chose an English degree because I felt like literature is much more accurate than history or math or science 😘 everything has a story and I appreciate fashion as an expression of the creative narrative of the time space/ space time energy💜
one of my favorite videos yet
If you don’t know the craft, you can’t do the Art. Please listen.
Thanks!
Thank you!!!
6:40, with me I see the 9k acid green bottgea jacket in saks and say: 4k for that canon camera is not so bad. I see other things that I can get more use from as not so expensive.
this is better than "better help"!
Fashion school is great! You need to know the rules to know how to break them. Knowing the right way to construct a garment, to cut a pattern, etc... you need to know what works and why those rules work. Learn the basic
Bliss, I assure you many professor live by ‘those that can’t do- teach’ many art school teachers were very limited in their view points. Of course the basic and foundation classes in details must be achieved but from experience professors can easily feel threatened and talk students out of their creativity.
Bliss sorry to contradict you, Hermes sell in London in the UK, in Selfridges, the department store. BTW love your content, always learn a tonne and it’s fascinating, so thank you ❤ !!
I love corrections! Thank you so much for telling us 💫💫
The real geniuses are the people who put the clothes together. As a person who designs and constructs my own stuff, I know most, not all, designers don't even know themselves how those pieces will be put together and don't really give directions on how to construct them. Again, not all designers are like that
I think it was Rick Owen who says something like "don't sketch, just make clothes..."
Hi bliss, just stumbled on your channel after looking at utube analysis of award season. Pretty much totally ignorant of fashion but got interested in how they could immediately reference styles, history etc gave me a glimpse into another world, so being curious had to know more very pleased I found your channel as this is exactly what you do! Very interesting learning about a foriegn world. Interested in how hotoure I'm sure that not spelling translates into ready to wear or are they very different concepts
Welcome in! Usually, haute couture isn’t directly connected to ready to wear. Seperate design teams and everything 💫💫
Fantastic video and advice to all Aspiring Creatives Bliss! Many times it seems as people who ended in top positions magically got there but the reality is that it takes years and a lot of learning and tell you what to and not do point and case Lee Mc Queen. When it comes to Exclusivity maybe here in the United States where we kind of don't have a class system we expect accessibility to many things where in Europe and other parts of the World class systems excist and certain things are for certain people, not everybody.
1:35 It turns out though that they don't want to show how it's made because it's made by a subcontractor in a 24-hour facility near Milan and they are charging €57 for it.
Mcqueen is the only house that I can think of, that doesn't relly on beauty products to keep up their margins and profits which I find rather interesting since even very very high exclusivity-based brands like Hermes have perfumes and etc. spread across every retailer you can think of.
under Sarah Burton, they did market their brands, shoes and accessories a lot though. I was speaking to the retail staff on the clothes, however, and it seems that a lot of orders come from tailored RTW jackets for businesswomen
its a Kering problem - all brands they bought licensed their beauty products away before the purchase, and YSL, Balenciaga, McQueen, Bottega, Gucci do not control their beauty/perfume lines at all, just get license income. I think they are loosing humongous money, and if YSL Beauty were under Kering, they would have made tons of money with Slimane's perfume line, or Demna's Balenciaga could have released something extravagant.
@@burgersuperkingKering launched kering beauty in early 2023, I think they'll release their first perfume soon for Bottega Veneta. We can expect most brands of the group to be brought back in-house. Except for YSL because l'Oreal owns the YSL-Beauty brand. And they also just bought Creed.
@@baroudk6818 better late than never, I think it all started after the acquisition of Creed.
Hilarious, FY peasant was completely great line, 55 yrs of virtual viewer of fashion. And it’s pretty! None in my life and not any worse for it. 1st time see you and love ya. Hermes, Orange Poppy, my only acquisition, Love my nails! ❤❤❤
Outside of learning the basis also in design school they have to put a criteria in place for projects you can’t just make whatever you want. Learn how to use the restrictions as a challenge to think outside the box while remaining in the box to fulfill the criteria for said project
Extending on your point about brands making a 15k coat to create a sense of awe and intrigue: Car brands do this too. Who gets to buy the 500k Mercedes? Very few. But then they leverage that awe and intrigue (and manufacturing prowess) into selling a ton of A-class and C-class cars for relatively normal prices.
Additionally, Ferrari does the same thing as Hermes and Rolex. You have to be an established customer to get access to the newest/best/rarest models.
All this to say, this stuff is not unique to the fashion industry, so hopefully that eases the sting people feel when they hear about this.
i am planning to go to fashion school for fashion desgin in a year and the only way my parents allowed it is if i promised to start my won brand and the truth really helps to undertand what i am committing. thak you thank you thank you
to
From what I understand, the huge price point is a reflection of the brand's fame and mystique, but not a huge price point based on the clothing or accessories quality itself. People buy Rolex for the name. People buy Ferrari for the name. People buy Hermes for the name. Consumers want to be noticed wearing what culture deems is dope or exclusive. The mega price points really are a reflection of the exclusivity of the brand's products.
a brand doing an seemingly outrageous thing, like a super high price point, is sometimes about signalling to 2 groups. in/out groups. as much as the brand wants to excite the in-group; the people who get it, winding up the out-group; the people who don’t like any of it and are already angry about something else, is also useful. both groups talk about the thing, so the word spreads. it doesn’t matter than you pissed off the out-group, they weren’t going to buy the thing anyway
business terms: in/out groups (your customers and definitely not your customers),
signalling (saying ‘this is who we are’)
purple cow (‘oh look, that’s weird’)
positioning (‘that lipstick seems cheaper now it’s sitting next to that way more expensive thing) 👍
This video must be old because Moschino has now Appiolaza
It is, we have to record some of these in advance to prepare for 2 weeks in France for fashion week 💫💫
How I love your analysis Bliss & Daniela.. so much gives me information that didn't know about yet and for that thank you.. more power and bless you both..
and I have a question..
for Bliss & Daniela if we take out of those fashion designers residentially in a fashion week of Paris, Milan, London & New York, do you have any looking forward fashion designer outside of those big four of fashion week to interview or get close to thier designs?
I am convinced that in this day and age it is effectively immoral bring badly designed clothes to the existence
Hermes is sold at Harrods here in London
As per your fast fashion 🤝 designer comment, I had a design teacher tell us once,
'if you pair a fast fashion shoe with a high end designer coat/garment, it will never work. You'll drag the value down. But if you do the opposite - high end quality shoes and a fast fashion outfit, everyone will wonder what niche designer you're wearing' 😂
Even fashion people know that the perception of quality is questionable at best for garments but good shoes/accessories is where the real signifiers are. Queue in Hermes and their bags, Rolex and their watches. If you can spend that much on the 'smaller' things (even the hypothetical $90 lipstick), nobody will question the value of the bigger things. Fashion psychology 101, lol.
Interesting video Bliss, also, literary book recommendations when?
I love the “come back to reality” moments. Knocking some sense into me 😂💀
I've never even HEARD of Geoffrey B. Small!😮😮😮
Well, you are going to have a lot of new information on him coming up soon ☺️
Hermes does sell watches in more places. For example Halls in KC sold the Hermes watches in fine jewelry
Where's the thumbnail from?! I love it
For most brands we can assume that they make no money on a 12k$ coat just because the number they will sell of that piece is so small. It won't make back the money they spent on the whole creation process.
I think we have broadly two ways of exclusivity. On hand we have the ''fake'' exclusivity like supreme or Rolex (talking about the steel modells) for example those products aren't that luxurious for the most part its just a huge amount of hype and a big brand behind them. Even if you have the money you can't just buy it and they could produce a lot more if they wanted to.
And we have real luxury the classic old luxury brand where the only reason if your not getting is that you can't afford it. No one is stoping you from buying it you don't need to build up a history with brand and that bs, like you go into the store pay for what ever you want and walk out with your stuff doesn't matter if you're there for the first or 100th time.
Bliss is the guy you wanna buy weird expensive crap for, JUST to see what he would say. THAT would be the gift to yourself. i know. weird
Bliss I wanted to say I loved hearing about you and your wife's liberal arts/polisci backgrounds for 2 reasons!
1) It finally clarified to me what sets your channel apart and why I enjoy your videos so much -- aside from your humorous and conversational delivery, your videos have an element of deep analysis that illuminates fashion from a vantage point that's not available anywhere else on youtube.
2) I'm glad you shone some light on the intangible benefits of these kinds of majors, which while don't always feed directly into a high-salary career path, provide intangible benefits in the form of critical thinking that truly elevates a person's perspective.
Hi! I love your videos. Do you have any tips on getting more knowledge about fashion? (any website, book recommendations...)
Can guys in the comments recommend some websites for me to look for more affordable vintage or second hand pieces?
Need a McQueen review ASAP
The Dunning Kreuger effect has entered the chat! 🤪
Hello! great video!
First??!
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi
CATHY GOT IT FIRST 🦾
ALSO STEVE 💫💫
YAS!!!@@BlissFoster
Tee Hee...@@BlissFoster
12:40 tonsil stone
BLISS FOSTER DJ SET WHEN?
where did you get that "luisaviaroma mentioned" meme?! 💀😭
We work closely with a local meme mill to create custom memes 🦾
I thought price was indicative of quality fabric and honed techniques. I'm just too old, I guess, to help build a designer's 'world'. If I ever wanted to do that, I'd open my Sims app (that was boring).
Is there a "chicness" behind a $15k coat? Once, long ago, a person could smell quality on a person (ok, i exaggerate). People knew what quality looked like indoor and out. Today, there is so much plastic in everything that it is difficult to discern whether it is expensive or throw-away style. That isn't a comment on the substance, but on what is quality today. Now it seems you have to be over top in design to get someone to notice. Was that the desire of the designer in the last century? Yes, partly, this lady thinks. It was surely the desire of many customers.
So, the fashion world is an exclusive one. No new news to those who can't afford it. American ingenuity gave us throw-away fashion so we can "renew" our closets on a whim. I don't see that as a win for the masses (tho my twenty year old self would be ecstatic).
Back to quality, what is quality polyester? What is quality acrylic? Are they so close it doesn't matter?
Who has the tools to manipulate plastic? Is that an art, a science or a stunt? Maybe all three? Is there a quality to that? Even if, in the future, a customer could create an ensemble out of spools of plastic, is it a good idea?
I could talk about this all day, but thank you Bliss, for giving us the chance to comment. 😊
i want a bliss foster t shirt priced at 50,000 i neeed it. hahaha
Too funny!😄
Interestingly, my mom and I had a long talk about the way Rolex, Hermes and Ferrari have that same barrier to exclusivity today.
They went to Thailand and saw all these shops selling fake designer items 2 stores away from Louis Vuitton and how that works. LV and other brands don’t much care about these because they know how we are as consumers have been trained by brands. They may be identical to the point where strangers would think the fake bag is real, but, we still want the thought of owning a real one. The people that go to these fake stores would not be able to afford the real thing and those who can will.
To up that, you could throw all the money at Hermes and they still won’t give you the opportunity to buy a Birkin. They want you to be a loyal customer and then they allow you to get this exclusive bag for a lot of money. It’s all about creating an imagine and it fuels people to ‘earn’ that imagine. Sure you can buy a 2nd hand Birkin, but it’s not the same as buying a couple of things, maintaining a relationship with the SAs and then being given the opportunity. It makes you feel different and that is wht these brands want when you see those outrageous prices.
My mom was floored knowing you have to earn the right to pay these brands tens of thousands of dollars. If everyone with money could get it, it wouldn’t be as cool and exclusive.
I agree with bliss I'm exactly like him it took a long time to understand that i need to let peoples tell me even if they are being assholes learn from them and practice though i was never rude to my teachers in fashion school and that's because i came from a poor family and learned to respect teachers cause my mother was one and i paid out of pocket master your base and expand on it when your out there like bliss said grow the F up its true :)
I would love for you to try learning sewing. ❤ lol 🎉
bliss you don't just spend couple hundreds to get a kelly, the ratio is at least 1:1 if not more
Topheavy and teetering!
3:11 too late !!!!!
45 minutes in
❤❤❤
*ITS WAY EASIER* to have $15,000 of actual VALUE in a coat than it is $15,000 of value in a Rolex.
QUOTE "904L stainless steel is a unique and highly valuable material that Rolex uses". NO ITS NOT its 904L its $3.66 per kg. The movement is mostly made by CNC machine and the Chinese clones are identical for $500. The coat is likely to be had spun, hand woven fabric in tiny quantities by artizans keeping alive a tradition, its hand made by skilled tailors. --->
There are probably $8,000 of wages in the $15k coat
i think may kidsuper or chopova lowena could fit in with moschino
or tyler the creater i kinda trust his taste
lol yeah it’s all about intrigue
Harrods sells Hermés.
Phillip pleinn the god
Luisa Via Roma, lol, seen the name over the years never could pronounce it, it sounds like a non legit store.
Stay in school and go to college, folks.
Showing THAT Hussein Chalayan show and timing the phrase "the ways in which things make meaning" to coincide with the unveiling of that dress is 🤌🏽🤌🏽 chef's kiss baby
Hey everyone, I need help finding a fashion designer who had an interesting way of making leather in which he would inflict pain on the animal to give it a kind of visual effect. Which designer was it and which episode did Bliss talk about it?? Please help 😭😭😭
I think you’re thinking of a rumor about Carol Christian Poell. It was something about transparent leather. This wasn’t true iirc
@@BlissFoster Thankyou🫶🏾🫶🏾🫶🏾
bae, where are you?
New episode coming in 48 mins 💫💫
@@BlissFoster 🌟we vibe on the same frequency 🌟