Thanks for the info. Can I add two additional construction details for your consideration. When using western red cedar 316 stainless steel nails/brads should be used to prevent corrosion (cedar contains a substance that reacts with steel and even galvanized nails), and the last horizontal lining board just under the ceiling lining should a have a 3mm or 1/8inch gap to let any moisture escape.
Thank you ! I was framing my outdoor sauna today. Re clearance around the stove. Do you know what thickness of stone is needed to reduce the clearance between the wall and the stove? Thank you
Does not need to be thick, I think brands don't have any official guidelines on it. It's not that the wood could really burn, this is more UL-mandated (talking about safety distances), getting wood to really burn would mean you need the stove crazy hot and crazy long. Any basic thickness of stone wall works. but I DO NOT KNOW since I think there are no guidelines on this.
Just don't put any wood around the stove. Better use a non flammable sheet of sheet rock painted with a heat proof paint or a stainless steel panel behind which is just rockwool, never risk it.
Great video! You got me worried about my window. I’m building sauna in my basement, the room has two windows of which one I plan to incorporate into the sauna. I would prefer if it looks like other windows from the outside, should it be a special kind of window or can I use the existing one?
You can use the existing one, your normal window. As long as there are no expandable gases in between if it's a double or triple-pane window. Only reason saying that is sometimes when heated certain gases in between window layers can expand and cause it to break, but this is unlinkely.
@@thesaunaheaterwill steam cover the window facing outside (due to humid and hot temperature inside the sauna on 1 side of the window and cold temperature from outside on the other side of the window), or will the window the window stay clear offering a nice view outside from inside the sauna? does single or double glazing influence this?
@@olimarghe This depends on the sauna. In some saunas windows get foggy when you throw water to the heater (make löyly), in others, it won't happen. It depends on the ventilation and how the löyly moves around. If you put your window right above your heater it's obviously guaranteed to fog when making löyly, If the window is on an opposite wall, not necessary. But you can see out from Haljas Saunas very well as an example and they're fully glass - thesaunaheater.com/products/single-glass-sauna So truly can't tell, it depends so much on the sauna and löyly movement inside.
This is timely because we will start the vapour barrier and clad the interior walls this week (indoor sauna). However I was not aware of leaving a gap between the vapour barrier and cedar cladding. We have some thinking to do…
I think you will be fine without the small cap for ventilation with properly treated internal cladding, and if you don't sauna like crazy, every day. Depends how difficult it is to do in your case if you should do it or not.
@@thesaunaheater Thanks, Veeti. Our issue would be losing the extra 1" of space. We're using Western Red Cedar (Grade "A and Better") T&G and it's kiln-dried but I'm not sure to which moisture%. Since cedar does not suffer warping issues like other species I'm thinking we may be okay - but we'll continue to weigh our options before we start on the walls this Wednesday. We plan to add a drip-edge baseboard along the walls which will provide a small gap at the base of the wall cladding in case any moisture runs down the vapour barrier (since there is some inherent laxity in the vapour barrier paper itself). Veeti, as always you've provided excellent information and great advice!! Thank you.
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Thanks for the info. Can I add two additional construction details for your consideration. When using western red cedar 316 stainless steel nails/brads should be used to prevent corrosion (cedar contains a substance that reacts with steel and even galvanized nails), and the last horizontal lining board just under the ceiling lining should a have a 3mm or 1/8inch gap to let any moisture escape.
Great additional information, thank you!
Thank you !
I was framing my outdoor sauna today.
Re clearance around the stove.
Do you know what thickness of stone is needed to reduce the clearance between the wall and the stove?
Thank you
Does not need to be thick, I think brands don't have any official guidelines on it. It's not that the wood could really burn, this is more UL-mandated (talking about safety distances), getting wood to really burn would mean you need the stove crazy hot and crazy long. Any basic thickness of stone wall works. but I DO NOT KNOW since I think there are no guidelines on this.
Just don't put any wood around the stove. Better use a non flammable sheet of sheet rock painted with a heat proof paint or a stainless steel panel behind which is just rockwool, never risk it.
Great video!
You got me worried about my window. I’m building sauna in my basement, the room has two windows of which one I plan to incorporate into the sauna. I would prefer if it looks like other windows from the outside, should it be a special kind of window or can I use the existing one?
No need for any special windows if it's not large. I'm a builder.
You can use the existing one, your normal window. As long as there are no expandable gases in between if it's a double or triple-pane window. Only reason saying that is sometimes when heated certain gases in between window layers can expand and cause it to break, but this is unlinkely.
@@thesaunaheaterwill steam cover the window facing outside (due to humid and hot temperature inside the sauna on 1 side of the window and cold temperature from outside on the other side of the window), or will the window the window stay clear offering a nice view outside from inside the sauna? does single or double glazing influence this?
@@olimarghe This depends on the sauna. In some saunas windows get foggy when you throw water to the heater (make löyly), in others, it won't happen. It depends on the ventilation and how the löyly moves around.
If you put your window right above your heater it's obviously guaranteed to fog when making löyly, If the window is on an opposite wall, not necessary.
But you can see out from Haljas Saunas very well as an example and they're fully glass - thesaunaheater.com/products/single-glass-sauna
So truly can't tell, it depends so much on the sauna and löyly movement inside.
This is timely because we will start the vapour barrier and clad the interior walls this week (indoor sauna). However I was not aware of leaving a gap between the vapour barrier and cedar cladding. We have some thinking to do…
I think you will be fine without the small cap for ventilation with properly treated internal cladding, and if you don't sauna like crazy, every day. Depends how difficult it is to do in your case if you should do it or not.
@@thesaunaheater Thanks, Veeti. Our issue would be losing the extra 1" of space. We're using Western Red Cedar (Grade "A and Better") T&G and it's kiln-dried but I'm not sure to which moisture%. Since cedar does not suffer warping issues like other species I'm thinking we may be okay - but we'll continue to weigh our options before we start on the walls this Wednesday. We plan to add a drip-edge baseboard along the walls which will provide a small gap at the base of the wall cladding in case any moisture runs down the vapour barrier (since there is some inherent laxity in the vapour barrier paper itself). Veeti, as always you've provided excellent information and great advice!! Thank you.
@loriwht ventilation gap is definitely necessary for longevity, at least an inch, don't risk this step for future rot.
First!
Mitch the big G!