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We for sure do! We ship to every State in the US. Feel free to contact us +1 725 777-5484 or sauna@thesaunaheater.com if you need any help :)

Hey Andrea! I have not seen closed cell foam to be used as an insulation material in the projects I have been involved with. Based on my understanding, it doesn't withstand the heat very well and can release toxic chemicals to the air when heated (?). I'm not sure since it's not really used in Finnish sauna construction, based on my understanding.

Thank you for watching! Happy to hear you enjoy your sauna :)

When it comes to Saunum heaters, you need to follow the specific guidelines found in the manual. For these heaters, it's essential to get the intake correctly placed so the over heating sensor (UL mandated) on the bottom of the heater gets cooled down.

To put it short, you can either a) not insulate at all (in which case you will need a massive amount of extra thermal power) or b) build a layer on top of the concrete wall (inside the sauna room), which has insulation materials, vapour barrier, and the internal cladding Option A requires a huge heater and makes for a dysfunctional sauna since the heat comes from one direction only. Option B eats away your sauna space and is difficult to construct. Concrete wall is not the easiest one to use. I'm sure you will figure it out.

I'm glad you like it! There's so much to learn about sauna building. More coming soon.

Great, I hope our videos help with that.

I would recommend high-temperature Silicone Sealant. With this model, your sauna heater won't be super hot from the bottom, and the heat rises so it shouldn't be too hot in there.

Thank you, I followed your recommendation but silicone was too runny . Is there a high heat foam you would recommend ?

@@douglasshive9872 I don't have any specific high-heat foams to recommend. Hope you can find a solution. Strange the silicone sealant did not work. When I think about it, something like natural wool insulation, or packing the whole with that could be an idea, but really I ain't sure.

Thanks for the info!!

Thank you for watching! Hope this helped. Ventilation is a difficult subject to teach as heaters and different heater requirements affect it, and things completely unknown like air pressure differences around you sauna can affect it, but I'm sure you can get good ventilation done with these instructions. We have full, more detailed online masterclass on ventilation inside The Sauna Society if you want to learn even more - www.skool.com/thesaunaheater

I recommend just opening your drying vent on the ceiling or high up on the wall and letting the ventilation run for a while after finishing a sauna session! There's no reason the sauna should cool down to ambient temperature after every use, there's no reason the sauna should cool down quickly. I just used that as a question since someone was wondering why it doesn't cool down, but it does not matter!

No need for any special windows if it's not large. I'm a builder.

You can use the existing one, your normal window. As long as there are no expandable gases in between if it's a double or triple-pane window. Only reason saying that is sometimes when heated certain gases in between window layers can expand and cause it to break, but this is unlinkely.

​@@thesaunaheaterwill steam cover the window facing outside (due to humid and hot temperature inside the sauna on 1 side of the window and cold temperature from outside on the other side of the window), or will the window the window stay clear offering a nice view outside from inside the sauna? does single or double glazing influence this?

@@olimarghe This depends on the sauna. In some saunas windows get foggy when you throw water to the heater (make löyly), in others, it won't happen. It depends on the ventilation and how the löyly moves around. If you put your window right above your heater it's obviously guaranteed to fog when making löyly, If the window is on an opposite wall, not necessary. But you can see out from Haljas Saunas very well as an example and they're fully glass - thesaunaheater.com/products/single-glass-sauna So truly can't tell, it depends so much on the sauna and löyly movement inside.

Great additional information, thank you!

Thanks, Amanda! We're working on this daily, and it should be published in early 2025 🙏 We're currently testing things to ensure it's perfect.

Does not need to be thick, I think brands don't have any official guidelines on it. It's not that the wood could really burn, this is more UL-mandated (talking about safety distances), getting wood to really burn would mean you need the stove crazy hot and crazy long. Any basic thickness of stone wall works. but I DO NOT KNOW since I think there are no guidelines on this.

Just don't put any wood around the stove. Better use a non flammable sheet of sheet rock painted with a heat proof paint or a stainless steel panel behind which is just rockwool, never risk it.

I think you will be fine without the small cap for ventilation with properly treated internal cladding, and if you don't sauna like crazy, every day. Depends how difficult it is to do in your case if you should do it or not.

@@thesaunaheater Thanks, Veeti. Our issue would be losing the extra 1" of space. We're using Western Red Cedar (Grade "A and Better") T&G and it's kiln-dried but I'm not sure to which moisture%. Since cedar does not suffer warping issues like other species I'm thinking we may be okay - but we'll continue to weigh our options before we start on the walls this Wednesday. We plan to add a drip-edge baseboard along the walls which will provide a small gap at the base of the wall cladding in case any moisture runs down the vapour barrier (since there is some inherent laxity in the vapour barrier paper itself). Veeti, as always you've provided excellent information and great advice!! Thank you.

​@loriwht ventilation gap is definitely necessary for longevity, at least an inch, don't risk this step for future rot.

Mitch the big G!

In your ceiling, between the vapor barrier and the internal cladding, you do need to have little space for air circulation so the ceiling wood dries effectively after sauna going! You also need something to attach the interior cladding to. I'm sorry if I forgot to say that or if our editing team has edited it out from the video. Good point thanks for the great comment!

Interesting take, I guess you get some hate on the internet whatever you do when you get big enough.

This is about traditional saunas in the US market. We don't consider infrared sauna a sauna and don't talk about those in our channel, that's a completely different product category. I'm sure they're great tho.

Depends what kind of sealer. If it's suitable for hot and humid environment and can handle high temperature changes you can.

Thank you! I will let the editing team know.

When it comes to indoor sauna kits I believe Auroom Baia is best in class for 2 people when it comes to traditional sauna. The ergonomic bench in that was very comfortable when I tried it! Don't hesitate to email us at sauna@thesaunaheater.com and our team can send over an offer or instruct you further!

Hey! I'm not familiar with Finnleo saunas at all, never seen one.

Depends on your situation. With electric sauna heaters, mechanical tends to work better but you can do natural ventilation as well, it just might not work so well with electric heaters. Very dependent on your unique situation.

Thank you for watching!

Great to hear! Good luck with your sauna project.

I recommend 18-24 inches deep for the top bench. If you have enough space, 24 is optimal so you can lie down more comfortably.

Thank you!

Good idea, thanks.

I was wondering the same thing. I have my benches installed but want to make sure I build and mount the backrest at the correct height

The recommended installation height for backrests is 15 inches above the top surface of the upper seating bench. There are multiple ways to construct your backrest, and no definitive guidelines to it. This video is a Finnish guy installing the backrest, it's in Finnish but maybe you get some more idea from it - ua-cam.com/video/bRy7sxk5V7o/v-deo.html

@@thesaunaheaterthank you for the help

Thank you for the comment! It's very opinion based which wood to use, and any of these woods mentioned will work well in your build.

Yes that's true!

I know people who use Fantech fans and are happy with them, but we're personally in the middle of testing different options so we don't officially endorse any brand at this time. Make sure the fan can handle the rapidly changing heat, and humidity conditions and you will be golden.

Because of sweat it's recommended to spray sitting platforms with water after every use of sauna. And wash sauna weekly to monthly depending how often you use it... There are products made for washing saunas, that won't release volatile chemicals. As of how badly USA laws are written regarding chemicals, those product are probably better to avoid (meaning USA products, if not clear).. Which ever wood is bad choice, if maintenanced poorly.

I would say no need to wash weekly, or even monthly, I wash my saunas a few times a year as high temperature kills bacteria so the sauna (if built properly and heated enough) kills bacteria automatically. Aesthetically, the more you wash the nicer the Aspen stays but I wouldn't worry too much about that and just enjoy my sauna. It stays pretty white in anycase.

We don't currently have specific recommended fan manufacturers for saunas. Just ensure that the fan you get can handle heat, humidity, and rapidly changing temperatures and you will be golden.

Yes that is okay, you just need MUCH larger sauna heater to heat up that thing and you need to cover the benches with wooden blanks because stone gets way too hot to sit in when heated.