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How To Install A Whole House Surge Protector | TL Davis Electric & Design
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- Опубліковано 7 гру 2018
- Buy a EATON Surge Protector on amazon: amzn.to/2vrAhK8
Surge Protection Flush Plate: amzn.to/2SlB6gJ
Sq D Surge Protection Device: amzn.to/2P1Q1e7
At TL Davis Electric & Design Tulsa we enjoy helping people protect there homes by teaching them basic electrical installation.
Understanding we can't help everyone because we are only located in Tulsa Oklahoma (goo.gl/maps/Xq...) , we decided to make a short video for people who would like to know how to install a whole house surge protector.
In this video we cut straight to the chase and give you the best surge protection device installation tutorial on the internet. We know because we checked.
Installing a surge protection device in you house is the best things you can do to protect sensitive electrons like computers, appliances, lights and a lot more.
If you live in the Tulsa area and are looking for a Tulsa electrician please give us a call we are happy to help you with all of your electrical needs. Please visit our website to learn more about the services we offer.
Website: www.daviselectr...
Location: Address: 10026-A S Mingo Rd Suite #211, Tulsa, OK 74133
Phone: 918-921-8984
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This was a special case to mount the SPD in the panel. Please do not mount the SPD in the panel. I have added some links to show you how to install a SPD flush mount and surface mount. I hope these video will help you to install the SPD safely. Make sure to always turn off the power if you are not an electrician.
Surface mount SPD video: ua-cam.com/video/Y7eHcqroojg/v-deo.html
Flush mount SPD video: ua-cam.com/video/oc78uzRJJo0/v-deo.html
How else are you supposed to install the SPD if the load center is flush mounted and surrounded by drywall?
@terrydavis Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?
Two types of people remove panel covers. Electricians and idiots.
Why should you not mount the SPD in the panel?
@@GetOffMyIce probably due to code standards. it shouldn't matter electrical wise. but an inspector if you sold the house would most likely demand it be removed. so 25 bucks for a drywall patch kit or use some scraps and youre good.
I served on USS Dace SSN 607, a Fast Attack Submarine, I was a Nuc Plant Operator and Electrician. Rarely did we ever work on energized systems, the exceptions being when underway and impossible to secure power on that particular system. Red tagging systems out with multiple signatures and reviews before working on energized gear is a typical operation. When we did operate on energized circuits we removed anything metal, and there would be 1 or 2 shipmates standing by holding ropes that were tied to the person working on on the equipment. I'm not here to lecture you but electricity is an equal opportunity killer, in fact the more experience you have the more comfortable you are in the false belief that you won't be electrocuted. Considering how easy it is for you to secure power to the panel its a very bad choice not to. After 30 years brother the odds are against you, I'd like to see you here 30 years from now. Secure the power, take care brother.
Sound advice. I changed all the wired smoke detectors in our house a few months ago and I thought they were wired on a 24VAC transformer for power so I left the power running. On the last one of 18, I got a shock and almost fell off the ladder - they are wired directly to 12VAC.
The electrical shock will not recognize if you're an electrician or not, if you can't turn off the main panel you should wear a safety glove. You can also attach the wires first to the breaker before you plug it in to the main panel
Several things. It’s always a good idea to turn off the main breaker but a lot of pros don’t. They also get bit sooner or later. I like to put a couple of layers of heat shrink on the screwsdriver shaft because I have a habit of sliding my index finger on it. Ouch! Do the wiggle/rotate thingy right as you finish tightening the terminal screws. Makes a huge difference in wire connection. When you have a panel open, snug up on all the screws. If it hadn’t been done before most will be loose!
I got several screwdrivers with the metal wrapped in electrical tape. I'm in hvac... so no I'm not inside yur traditional electrical panels often outside of my own house and more times than not working in hvac control panels we have the power off anyway... but at some point there's only so much you can do with the power off. So ya gotta be safe! I like the idea you mentioned using shrink wrap!! Definitely gonna try that!
They make insulated screwdrivers for hot-work. Also, don't neglect the value of NFPA 70-110.14(D) Terminal Connection Torque.
Thanks much Terry
I dont have a surge protector for my home yet but lately weve had a lot of wind & rain as well as thunder storms
Just happened across your video & watched & enjoyed the information you gave
Ill put one in so you dont hear later of my house getting burnt to the ground
I appreciate your good work & information
Great video, just finished installing my own surge protector in my house. Easy to follow instructions. Saved myself around $850-900 dollars doing it myself.
As a Canadian Electrician I just kept thinking #2 robby so much safer then Flat blade lol. Good install!
As soon as I saw him tying the neutral in I was like " how do they even live down there?"
I personally hate doing panel work with a flat head blade! Lol. Robinson #2 all day.
One of my biggest pet peeves: panel upside down.
I love everything on the video besides two things that startle me! One I will always use electrical insulated gloves and I will not wear any type of jewelry whatsoever even if I’m wearing gloves! Above that everything is fine, yes you can still have power into the panel and still do your business and as long as you are being cautious! Any home DIYer should take these matters into consideration to the fullest! Now if you’re a professional electrician I can see different methods of doing this but I also recommend that you take this to the fullest and be cautious because all it takes is one time to get shocked and it may just be one shock but sometimes that can be fatal!
If you are not an electrician you should always shut the MCB off before installing the breaker. You should always wear leather gloves and safety glasses when working on electrical equipment. When doing these video's you try and get everything right. I also let them know if they feel uncomfortable they should hire it done by a licensed electrician.
I'd kill the power before opening the panel box up.
You've been doing this for thirty years, never once read the torque spec for tightening the connector screws, and have never considered using a torque wrench on 'em. Inspectors love guys like you!
Inspectors are a joke
@@marshalldavis7364 Torque spec. what are you building ? You must be just being funny lol.
Good video Terry but the one thing I did notice is that directions say to twist your red and black conductors together. I've installed these before myself.
im thankful for your knowledge and willingness to share it. however watching the ground wire strands fray and a few of them didnt go in the hole is making my ocd flare up to 100!!! but seriously thank you again
Ferrules are nice and the NFPA allows them on stranded.
Why didn't you turn off the main breaker in the panel? It seems like that is more dangerous than worrying about arcing?
Even just to set a good example for us kids
Can I ask what you meant by do not cross the neutral wires? Great video. Thanks
Thank you, you made the video very self explanatory for anyone that might not have been comfortable in doing it before confidante in doing it now...
Your a good bloke.
I appreciate your thorough explanation of the process of installation of this simple but important protection.
Might want to clear up some confusion for some beginners and let them know why the ground and neutral are mounted to the same buss bar, and how they are bonded only at the main panel. Also, when tightening down the crimps to copper, to go back and re tighten later as copper is soft and compresses leaving a slightly loose connection after being seated and setting for a day or so.
Yeah why the ground in the neutral bar??
Yes, why on the same bar?
Good Tip, I went back to my panel 3 months after new and re-torqued all the breaker conductor connections, found 1/4 turn on many and some took almost a full turn tighter. It is good prevention to nuisance tripping and costly breaker over heating damage.
I just want to clarify that it is not always the main panel, but is the first point of disconnect. If your outside service has a breaker that kills power to the pane where the majority of your breakers are housed,l then you need to keep the grounds and neutrals on the correct bars on that panel or mount in the disconnect(if possible) and bond grounds and neutrals
Thats not the purpose of this video
Can I use a one slot 2pole breaker ?
Thank you for the video. Just ordered the protection using your link, hopefully it somehow helps you the way you help me. Have a wonderful day sir!
Thanks for ordering the SPD. Please make sure to turn off the main breaker when doing this. Make sure to install it on its own breaker. Good luck
Thank you so much for the video! I just hope I don't shock myself dead, lol🤩🤩🤩
I have a couple screwdrivers I just added heat shrink to the shaft. It was more to prevent shorting components more than me getting zapped when adjusting stuff on aircraft.
When he inserted ground wire into bus bar i noticed the stranded wires separated. Therefore not all of the strands went under the screw. I always twist stranded wires together before inserting into breaker or bus bar to prevent this from happening. time 5:35
Nice job very clear and. Precise presentation .
BTW
Love your panel box compared to what I had when since I ve moved in
Turn the main power off ALWAYS when working in the panel. Remember that the three input lines into the main breaker are STILL LIVE.
This is energized work. It's pretty tame by energized work standards but I've done just a little research, enough to get dangerous.
This is typically a 240/120V system. (Use 250V when selecting insulated tools.) Meters and probes are CAT IV. 250V has no restricted approach boundary, just work in a way that "avoids" touching energized parts. Class 00 gloves would be sufficient, but even at that lowest possible rating they're expensive.
Arc flash took some more research. Here's some testing mostly at ~7,200V and 480V. Those flames are no joke. Oh, and the *lower voltage is more dangerous*. It can strike a decent arc that takes a long time to clear, just keeps blasting flame at you.
ua-cam.com/video/fZP47mlELSc/v-deo.html
I eventually found a PG&E policy from 2009 that sets their protection level for pulling or installing 240/120V meters at 8 calories per square centimeter. 8 cal/cm^2 is not great but it's not horrible. Hearing protection and all skin covered with fire-resistant material - think face shield, goggles, firefighter's balaclava.
www.pge.com/includes/docs/pdfs/mybusiness/customerservice/startstop/newconstruction/greenbook/servicerequirements/appB-FRletter.pdf
The best arc flash protection is minimizing the hazard. I'm looking at the gap between those hot buses and thinking "Jacob's ladder, oh hell no." I'd not be comfortable doing that work with the main breaker in. So what if you have to work by flashlight? De-energize those bus bars! Also, the screwdriver with the uninsulated shaft is an arc hazard if it's dropped into the service feeder.
So that's what I'd personally be comfortable with. Balaclava, ear plugs, face shield. Main breaker disconnected, prove the bus bars dead. Non-conductive floor, leather gloves as shock protection. Insulated tools, stay away from the service wires, cover them if possible. I would personally be comfortable with non-rated gear - cotton and wool. A dry chunk of 2x4 and duct-tape to cover the feeder; it's under 250V and tracking isn't a concern.
williamhoodtn you’re so smart
Don't give advice home owner.
Says the guy who might not have ever worked on an old Murray MB panel or some crappy old FPE. Turning off the main can open up a can of worms. Sometimes the MB cannot be reset so then what?
@@electricalron Nope, never have done that. I'm sure you are right. But since your videos are also seen by non-electricians (like me), safety should be at the top of the list when making a silly mistake can kill you.
Great 👍 not too’ long, not too’ short, no big words, made it look so easy.. thank u.. took 10mins: made $400
Nice that you screwed someone.
@@13612 How is that screwing somebody ? Must be an electrican making that dumb comment
Can you put a in line fuse in the surge supressor Hot to protect surge over 15 amps ?
That is a type 2 spd. You need a type 1 if you are installing in your panel. Type 2's go on an HVAC compressor unit for example.
Thks man you' ve been a great help ! Rgds 👍
Question; can you piggyback the surge protector on a breaker that is being used for something else or does it have to have its own breaker?
Each big thing should get its own dedicated breaker, right?
Best video on this subject! Thank you
I like the way Terry Davis installed this. I would make a peek hole to view the status lights.
I only installed it in the panel do to a special situation. Normally they are installed on the outside of the panel, either surface mount or recessed mount.
Eaton sells the breaker type.........
The only problem I have with this installation is the unit is mounted inside the panel. The homeowner has to remove the cover to check the status of the unit. The suppressor needs to be mounted on the outside of the panel so that the homeowner can check it without being exposed to live components.
You could mount the spd outside of the panel but you must not exceed the 1 meter wire limits. The shorter the wire used the better.
I agree with installing outside the box to check the status of the lights at a glance.
You could drill a couple of small holes to view the lights.
turn off main power before working in the box
@@williamtamminga5889 there's a lot of wrong w/ this. To turn off the power completely you'd have to pull the meter and in our area you can't do that without a permit. When you turn the main breaker off there is still voltage present on the Line side of the main breaker. So with the main breaker off, it's still considered energized because there is voltage present and pulling a permit for this application isn't practical. Unfortunately most electricians are not trained in electrical safety even though they're electricians. I know, it sounds crazy but I see and hear it all the time.
Been thinking about getting one of these. This seems like an easy install but I want to watch someone else do it first. I say it looks easy but if you don't know what your doing, 220 volts on the mains can be hostile. The cities records show a transformer blew about 5 miles away knocking out the power on that side of town while creating a huge spike on our side of town. It took out both my 2000 joule surge protectors and both desktop PCs. I ended up spending about a hundred bucks on motherboards, 2 days of looking at specs and screwing them in, and I lost more money in downtime.
So was it your"whole house" surge protector blew and didn't even protect your computers?
@@GalaxyMakesEdits I had 1 20k joule surge protector, 2 motherboards that were plugged into the surge protector, 1 modem, and a drop cable amplifier that was taken out. A whole house surge protector probably would have helped me out.
The lights flickered then I heard an explosion. Then I notice things not working on my PC like my USB ports. I looked at my surge protector and it was red instead of green.
Very nice video Thanks
Thanks
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Excellent video!
Informative. Muchas gracias.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO!!!
Great video! Although I will be turning off the main power.
Great. Make sure you do turn off the main breaker when installing. I made additional information before the video that tells everyone to turn off the main breaker (power) Thanks for thinking about being safe. Good luck on your project.
Wonderful job, thank you so much
When adding a SPD to any panel. Please verify what type of breaker is needed in the instructions that come with the SPD. The one I had installed requires only a 2 pole 15 amp breaker and not a 50 amp breaker. We should always follow what the manufacture ask for when installing their SPD.
Great advise and instruction
Excellent!
I always put the wires in the breaker in my hand first then mount it in the panel, done. Might be wrong but then I’m working away from the box.
Not wrong at all. I've been doing that for years.
Good installation. I personally would wear gloves and use an insulated screwdriver.
you must not be an electrician.
You should mention that all wiles, especially ground and neutral wires are installed without any sharp bends, i.e., sweeping curves is OK. I see that your panel has the neutral bar connected to the panel back, which is essentially bonding the ground bar to the neutral bar. This extremely import for the surge device to operate properly.
Why did the Green bonding wire go to the neutral bus and not the Bonding terminal?
You should drill some holes in the cover to show the LED lights so that you can see the health status!
my thoughts exactly!! Much easier to check without opening the panel.
Don't drill any hole in the cover, as you void the UL warranty.
@@terrydavis5882 They are talking about drilling a small hole in the metal panel cover, not the device as you hid the status indicators.
Do not drill any holes in the cover. The install was for a special need to not show the lights as the person, has a child that likes to pull apart anything that has lights on it. I will be putting out a better video on how to install the SPD. This video will cover existing panels. New panels, surface mount panels.
Does the placement not matter if your wires aren't long enough to relocate other breakers? Is this because its still the shortest path to ground being at the panel?
How do you size the surge protector, meaning 15 A vs 50 A? Wouldn't it be better to install it outside of the breaker box, so you can see the indicator lights? But if you did, how would you work around the sheetrock?
The surge protection will have information telling what size of breaker to use. And if you want to put it on the outside. You can use 1/2” flex and two flex connector and a deep 4 square box. Knock out the 1/2” ko in the box and one in the panel. Do not add wiring to lengthen the wire on the surge protection device. If you need a diagram you can email me at daviselectricaldesign@gmail.com
@@terrydavis3863 Thanks! I understand. For sizing, I mean, how do you know whether to buy the CHSPT2SURGE (which takes a 20 amp breaker) or CHSPT2ULTRA (which takes a 50 amp breaker)? Looking at specs online I see a kA surge rating, but how does one determine how many kiloamps to protect against?
Sorry, 15 amp, not 20.
If the surge protector does its job and breaks a surge, is it possible to reset that protector or do you need to replace it with a new one?
Sorry the long delay. Eaton makes a flush mounting kit to install it in the sheet rock. On residential homes I would not install greater than 50 kva as it is a waste of money. 50 kva, 80 kva, 100 kva, do the exact same thing. Just look at as hits. 50 hits, 80 hits, 100 hits,
I would like to see how to install a surge protector at the transfer switch of a 200 amp generac transfer switch
Great Great Video !!! What should I do if I don't have room for more breakers spaces? Any suggestions, or links? That will be greatly appreciated.
Your goal will be to attach to a double pole circuit breaker that you know will remain untripped. My suggestion is the dryer circuit. Do not illegally double-tap the existing circuit breaker. Google about this. You need to either pig tail or get a proper tandem double-pole circuit breaker replacement that is designed for double-tapping.
After you install this device is it necessary to install other surge protection on things like the AC outside unit or other large appliances?
Yes layering surge protection is always recommended!
Good information
Funny seeing Mike Holmes. I installed Sycom device like they showed on TV years ago and later found they caused fires.
I looked the story up. They are no longer in business. But this is an Eaton product, why smear Mike Holmes? He doesn't make the products.
@@robertlee4172 I did not smear anyone. Just pointing out fact.
@@gregsz1ful Did Holmes endorse the Sycom product, or merely used it on an install? Ya, I thought so.
@@robertlee4172 His registered electrician installed it. If you watched all of Holmes shows, you have seen it installed several times. Not sure what your problem is.
@@robertlee4172 Holmes endorsed installing a surge device many times. after my original Sycom device exploded during a storm, they sent me a replacement. After installing a new one ai learned about the recall.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How do I know what size whole house surge protector to get. I am going to install a 200 Amp 20 Space 40 Circuit Outdoor Combination Main Breaker/Ringless Meter Socket Load center. I will have (11) 20 Amp breakers,(4) 30 amp Double-Pole breakers, (1) 30 Amp Single-Pole breaker. Thank you for your time.
I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.
My main panel has the grounds and neutrals on same bar. I have no sub-panel. I was please to learn that this is ok. I've purchased a Square D whole home surge protector HEPD80. With this model I can install either to a breaker or direct bus installation. Since I do NOT have available breaker slots, I'm doing the direct bus install. The instructions show the ground and neutral going to different bars. I have additional unused isolated bars on the panel. Should I connect the ground to one of them and the neutral to the bar that shares the neutrals and grounds. Or should I just install neutral and ground on the same bar with the others ? Thanks
Cool video
It does not matter where it is located in the main box but every manufacturer recommends the wires be as short and straight as possible to the associated breaker.
It does not matter on location in box. You are correct!. They don't like them more than 3' in length, the longer they are the less efficient they become. Good job.
I have a CH panel with a knockout at the top for this surge protector. My open breakers are at the bottom near the main shutoff. The wiring will reach, but what’s the deal with the screw holes on the front of the surge protector? If I drill two holes in the panel cover and mount it that way then I won’t be able to get the panel cover off without disconnecting it in the future. Seems odd. I was thinking of just lining up with the knockout and mounting to the panel. Thoughts?
Nice video, thanks for sharing. Does this unit have an alarm if it has been hit and needs to be replaced? Wondering how someone would ever know if it's buried behind the cover?
It’s common to drill a small hole in line with the green lights. If the green lights are on it’s working properly. Once it’s taken too many hits depending on the electric service in that area. The lights go out. They can last 1 year or 10 years depending on the power supply surges.
Wow, I've been an electrician for 27 years, a licenced journeyman for 22 years, and a licenced contractor for 8 years. I guess I missed it during all that training that somewhere during the process of becoming an electrician, I would somehow become immune to electrical shock or arc flash/blast, so no longer requiring PPE (i.e gloves) while working on energized equipment since I'm now an electrician....lol. Good video other than that but off bad advice.
Yeah, but that is where my generator switch is with the interlock kit. You said anywhere, so it can go on the other side, right?
i have a main panel in the house to which a 60amp line from its breaker was run to an accessory building. there is a panel and subpanel installed in this accessory building.
QUESTION: do i install 1, 2, or 3 SPD's?
i.e. will just the 1 SPD cover both the house and the accessory building
OR
do i need to install a SPD in the house and another SPD in the panel in the accessory building?
AND would the subpanel in the accessory building also need a SPD?
Thank you. (you have EXCELLENT VIDEOS !!!!)
Unless your sub-panel in the accessory building has circuits that exit the building (external lighting /pump/motor) Probably 2. Both building mains. However, if the sub panel feeds expensive equipment (welding machine/saws/motors/computers etc) which are costly to lose/repair - putting one on the sub panel (type 2) is not a bad idea..
Hi, if you install the protector behind the panel, how can you observe the green LED lights after you reinstall the panel cover. Thanks
I installed mine on the outside
Oh I want one of those
Hey I just have a few observations to mention.!
1. You forgot to say that the breaker where the surge will be installed should be at the neutral bus side
2. Who ever did the original panel didn’t split the ground and neutral bars.
3. Preferably use insulated screwdrivers
4. Always turn the main power off.
5. Trim the circuit that you repositioned
6. Green wire goes to ground bus bar
Other than that you did better than most others.
David, thanks for your reply on the whole house surge protection device.
1- when we read the instructions it tells us to use a 2 pole 15 amp breaker that will work in the manufactures panel. It does not address us where to install the 2 pole breaker in the instructions. I have work with Eaton, along time. They have a kit to install it at the bottom of the panel away from the main. The electronics in the SPD will detect the surge and draw it into the SPD. So you can install the SPD anywhere in the panel.
2- This is a main panel and not a sub panel. They are suppose to be connected. There is a strap that sits underneath the bus. In a sub panel you are correct that they need to be separated per code.
3- The two pole breaker is off, so you will not be shocked when connecting the wires to the breaker. The neutral bar does not carry any current that will shock you. If you are not a qualified electrician, It is always good to turn off the main breaker.
section 250 from NEC says clearly ground needs to be bonded to neutral at main panel.
Why do all these installation videos have large circuit breaker panels with spare breaker slots? All the houses I've been in have barely any free room inside *and* all breakers slots are populated!
Thanks for showing! Is there a reason you put it to the left and not the right?
My sister just purchased a house that had one of those Eaton surge protectors installed on the outside of the box. Until then, I had never seen one. My concern is that the metal connecters on each side of the device are exposed and could be touched by her grandchildren. I'm wondering if those connecters on the left and right of the Eaton surge protector are "hot" and a potential hazard when the green lights are lit?
So once the cover is installed, you won't be able to view the green lights. Do you ever drill viewing holes in the cover to see the lights? How would you know if this is operational after an event without removing the whole cover in your installation example?
It protects the main, but will it protect a 100 amp sub panel that is next to the main? I have a sub that powers a 15 amp light, 20 amp micro, and a 30 amp split AC unit with 2 heads. I have 2 spare 15 amp circuits too. This sub connects into the main with a 100 amp breaker so I think the surge protector would protect the sub too.
I just installed my 240V Car charger with 2 50amp breakers can I pop this in there instead of adding another 2? I would get the other model not this one.
tyia
Is the ground and neutral same bar?
Hello sir
Does it matter where to install in fuses panel or it has to be in a specific area ?
How does it work? If there is a power surge does it trip the breaker? Or it depends how big is the surge!
At my house I had power interruptions like 6 in 30 min, probably I had power surges, it fried the board on my fridge!
Mine is around 10 yrs old.. can I test it to verify it is still working?
Should do the in wall flush Mount kit so you don’t have to take the panel cover off to monitor the surge protector
I bought a CHSPT2ULTRA my instructions said to connect the white wire to the neutral bus and the green wire to the ground bus. I saw you connected the neutral wire and the ground wire to the same bus. Is that because there was no ground bar?
How do you know where the neutral and the ground go? Are they interchangeable?
In the main panel the ground and neutral share the same bar. It does not matter if the ground and neutral are next to each other. In sub panels they are separated and cannot share the same bar. Make sure to turn off the panel when installing the SPD and try and get it next to the main breaker if possible. If you need to add a little wire that is okay and make sure the SPD is on its own 2 pole breaker. Make sure to read the manufactures recommendations on what size to install. Good luck on your project.
Is that main breaker the code because it seems a little low
I don't get it. How does this whole house surge protector trip the main breaker if there's a surge of the main power? Or does it reduce the voltage? Thanks
So the neutral and the ground were connected on the same terminal board?
I just have 1 question did he just connect the ground to the neutral bar can you do that
These are a good idea, but I believe that you still need local surge protectors to protect ALL of your electronics, and these days, that would include appliances like refrigerators and microwaves, since everything is run off digital electronic motherboard controllers. You can get local back surges within the wiring of your house, especially when turning off large motors with all their stored energy inside the copper coils of the motors, e.g., fans, vacuums, etc.
The SPD that was installed covers all of that. You can always add more protection if you want? That is up to you but not necessary.
The mfg recommendation is to have two single pole breakers, not a ganged dual pole. This is to maintain protection on the second phase if the first phase only is triggered. Also, it is emphasize that the wires should be twisted (to reduce the inductive coupling)
Can I use two single pole breakers from the distribution board for it or should I get a new 2-pole breaker?
I don't know where you got your information from?. The training that I received requires a two pole breaker and that breaker needs to be dedicated for the SPD.
Average cost for typical install would be? That's what people that view this would like to know and does this last or is it a one/surge wonder or does it keep working for several surges?
The average cost should be around $700 dollars and depending on the surge it encounters. A really bad surge 1 time from a lighting strike or on average surges you get from the utilty company. I have heard around 50 or more. You want one that has a high amp rating over 100,000 amps. Make sure it is connected to its own two pole breaker. It cannot share or be tied into the main breaker. If you are not a electrician make sure to turn the main off before doing any work in the panel.
My panel is full but I have 4 spaces on the outside disconnect. Is there any issues with it being added to the bottom of the meter base? The entire system is Eaton with snap in neutral bar.
Just had one put in and it showed there was more issues after eletrical small eletrical fire
The surge protector has a threaded end so you can put it in a k o and use a lock nut
Hi i got a quick question. Does the surge protector cover the 220v outlet and the 110 outlets?
The SPD covers both phases. You will need a two pole breaker that is dedicated for the SPD and follow manufacture recommendation on amps for your SPD.
My question is, if my heatpump uses a 60amp breaker can I still install one of these considering it asks for 2 15amps pole or the 50amps pole for eaton chspt2ultra?
Eaton makes a Breaker style SPD for flush mount applications
Excuse me if this is a stupid question but if you want to protect the whole house how can it only be wired into its own breaker? Wouldn't it have to be wired into the main breaker? How does this work to protect the whole house if it's only wired into its own breaker ?
The ground wire was connected to the neutral bar. The panel illustrated has a grounding system in the panel. Is there a Reason why the grounding wire isn't connected to the grounding bar. Other options is to install the unit to the outside panel to prevent customer from exposing themselves to a live system. This is more applicable when looking at the green LED lights on the Surge Protector.
Can you tap into an existing breaker or you must use a new one?
You must have a dedicated breaker for your SPD. DO NOT TAP ONTO ANOTHER BREAKER OR THE MAIN.
Wait, so you can just mount them inside the case? This whole time, I've been using those in wall cut in style boxes you can get for these, witch can be a pain in the ass depending on space. Or mounting a 4 square, unless using a CH panel. Normally I just use the breaker style if it's a BR