I wish they had spent much more time talking about the indirect strikes and the surge protection options they used. Or is there another video about that ?
A lot of people freaking out about the conductor being run inside the house. Let me see if I can explain this so it makes sense. The copper conductor is just that - a conductor. It is LOW RESISTANCE which means the current from the strike can pass along it quickly and without any resistance. Resistance is what brings the heat. Ever see a tree that has been struck by lightning? The lightning uses the tree as a conductor to ground. Wood is HIGH RESISTANCE. The current has to really work to follow that wood to the earth and in the process it heats it up and strips the bark. If conductor that was LOW RESISTANCE was in that tree and tied to a ground rod, you wouldn't see any heat build up or damage to the tree. Once lightning gets to permanent moisture in the earth---it dissipates...-This lightning protection system is a continuous circuit from earth ground (the bottom of the ground rod about 10' below grade) up to the tip of the air terminal about 12" above the structure. Earth potential is brought up to the tip of that air terminal above the structure. Tests involving rockets which can create lightning strikes have been conducted and the point of dissipation (aka as a "return stroke leader") from the air terminal to the cloud induced lightning charge is well above the structure. Steel framed skyscrapers get struck by lightning all the time. These buildings have lightning protection systems which utilize the steel framework as the conductor. The roof air terminals are tied to the steel at roof level and the steel is grounded at 60' intervals around the perimeter of the base of the steel. These buildings don't heat up and the steel doesn't melt etc when lightning strikes because steel is considered acceptable as a LOW RESISTANCE conductor. Underwriter's Laboratories and the National Fire Protection Association have standards for lightning protection and they all concur that internal conductors are acceptable.
There is no words for you all how awesome you are 😍 . May be supper awesome . I have leaned a lot from your program ❤ . It is always a great pleasure when I learn a lots of good advise & lessons. My LORD be with U all Thanks
Very interesting idea to place the cabling inside the attic. Question - should a lightning strike occur, will the electricity passing through the cabling in the attic make a fire more susceptible with burning or charring the wood frame work?
That may be true as I myself been hit twice by lightning & numerously times shocked. I am bald only on top but told it's hereditary on your Mother's side of the family as is true my mothers brothers too are all bald just the same as I am.However you never lose the hair around on the sides of your ears & the very back unless it's a cancer or something else. But you know what I say? So what if I am bald, in fact I even shave my head & people act as if though something is wrong with us that are bald. Most people & I mean most men are bald & wear hair pieces & weaves in shame of it. I alway's tell people to be who God made you & don't flatter yourself. Their ain't nobody going to eat you or anybody able to whip my ass as I fear no one & dare everyone to try. l.O.l
Key step left out of the video which is bonding the building / structure grounding electrode as per NEC 250.106. Basically run as least #6 bonding cable to the building ground rod from the lighting protection system ground
This system is designed to dissipate charge to prevent a strike, not absorb a strike as many who have posted below believe. The purpose of an air terminal is to continually bleed off the static charge in the immediate area around the structure to avoid the likelihood of a strike in that area. The sharp point of The aerial is by design for that purpose. An in ground low impedance ground system bonded to the service entrance ground would serve a different purpose allowing a surge from the incoming line (much more likely) possibly from a lightning strike nearby or an EMP created by a strike in the immediate area which was absorbed into the power lines and entered the structure as a surge. This is why a whole panel surge arrestor on your main service entrance (outside the building) is so important. A secondary whole panel unit on each sub panel in your home is a great idea... but the primary outdoor unit is the most important. Having it located OUTSIDE is the key. You want to dissipate the surge before it enters the building. Everything be bonded back to the service entrance ground and nowhere else, and that the neutral/ground bond only exist at the service entrance panel. Otherwise you will always have electrical issues and noise on your power lines.
I noticed they didn't test the earth resistance using a megger test I imagine putting 2 10ft rods in the ground would give a decent reading but even so surely those 3 down conductors required a test on them??
I hear two lines of thought with regard to lighting rods which this story only addressed one. The installer said the rods do not attract or repel lightning - it only dissipates a lightning strike into the earth. But other resources suggest a lightning rod will disperse ions from a structure and reduce the likelihood of a strike. I was also surprised to see the cabling being run through the structure - again I see articles recommending directing the path of a lightning strike away from building materials and structure. The guy is a pro so I am not questioning his approach - just wish there was a little more explanation given.
+Matt Justaddwata He explained it being that running it inside would preclude issues when the roof has to be inevitably redone. If it was outside, then the entire grounding system would likely have to be redone as well. Being as it is run in an out of the way location inside, the lightening is just going to travel along the cable to the ground via the path of least resistance.
because it is a continuous cable, the resistance of wood is extremely high and the electricity would already be on the cable by the time it gets inside, there's really no danger to the structure. Redirecting the strike away from building materials really only matters when the lightning is still in the air or in a metal building
Yep, in the event of a direct strike, I’m sure that cable and hardware would get extremely hot. I would be concerned about trying to solve one problem and potentially creating a source for a house fire.
I would have wanted more separation from the copper cable to the studs personally as I would think the cable would get rather hot during a strike. If lightning did strike a house with lightning rods, I imagine that there would still be damage to the house, but the damage would most likely be lessened. Maybe having the cable in contact with the wood isn't that much of an issue. Then again I've never had any exposure to any of this.
They installed a copper lightning rod with a brass fitting onto a steel thread rod, then to copper cable and finally to copper rods. Aren't they adding a lot of resistance with the brass fitting and steel thread rod? Will those dissimilar metals cause corrosion?
I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.
That coupler connecting the 2 grounds rods is a very poor high resistance connection. It will cetainly corrode over time and be useless. Also bringing lightning in the home and straping the very wire that carries high voltage and current against dry wood is probably not the best idea. The never mentioned anything about ground potential. Those ground rods per NEC have to be wired together with the electric panel ground or this set up will do more damage then good. I see several possible major issues with this setup.
there's no way in hell you'd ever get me to allow running the ground cable thru my attic or inside walls. I've seen a super strike blow up a huge oak tree before from 100 yards away. Still makes me shudder. No way in hell!
I fail to see any reason it cannot be run outside in such a way that it can be easily worked around when redoing the roof. I wouldn't go as far to call it a complete hack job, but they definitely cut corners.
I have a metal antennae tower in the ground next to my house and it is connected to the side of my roof with a bracket . It is connected to a grounding rod in the ground but I don't know how substantial it is. The tower with the old antennae on it is about 50 feet tall. It is pretty cool but I wonder if it means I am more vulnerable to damage. I have a digital antennae mounted to it and I use the old antennae wire for FM reception, but I could take the top 20 feet or so down... carefully with a sawzall and some sort of prop.
I sure wouldn't cut the power down any shorter but you can add to the ground rod by placing a rod on either side 6 or 10 feet away bonding them together. I think the key is that you only ground to one of them or each one serves one or more air terminals exclusively for instance at opposite ends of a large building or house keeping the length of the run to a bare minimum. Do not interconnect the runs from the farthest air terminal to a ground rod run to other air terminals to a ground rod runs.
I think the key is that you don't create a ground loop where you have different potentials based on the ground resistance on multiple grounds I would also say that you must keep all your runs to the ground as short as reasonably possible. This is one of those areas where you won't find a whole lot of information the whole lightning thing is like black magic the higher the air contact is the better as it protects an area around the terminal equal to the height . I'm sorry my phone does terrible things when I hit send
I hope that the contractor bonded the ground rod attached to the electric meter underground to the lightning system ground rods. If not, that creates different ground potentials and is a hazard in case of a strike.
I'm a European from a big-ish city - we have buildings anywhere from 5 to 25 floors - but this is the first time i see this many lightning rods on such a small structure and also ran through the inside, on the wooden rafters? Like, wouldn't that copper cable turn glowing hot when it gets hit? ... In my eyes, they just made sure that the house will burn down in an event of lightning
The wire would heat up and expand... but slightly. Lightning's effect is nearly instantaneous; likely not enough to cause a discernible/noticeable difference in either expansion nor heat build-up. The opposite would be a tiny wire; which would not be able to carry the current and overheat and melt; an infinitely thick wire wouldn't even 'see' the current; this is somewhere in between where likely the experts have determined that X thickness of wire (read the codes on this for Class I or II; 1/0 AWG for CCA or 2AWG for Copper) is the minimum required thickness to meet the code. You can likely reach out to the writers of the code for empirical back-up on these thicknesses/diameters. I, for one, will trust their expertise and buy at least the minimum and perhaps one thicker to 'guarantee' no issues (depending upon cost up-tick, of course).
1AWG is 42.4mm^2, 2AWG is 33.6mm^2, so 26.2% increase in area - - makes sense. I would probably go the next size or two up and switch over to aluminum, depending on the cost savings from Copper-to-Aluminum. Ref: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
except you shouldnt for the very reason aluminum wiring is nolonger used in homes: as aluminum ages the oxide layer gets larger, being an insulator this can cause a spark to form, jumping over the oxide layer, causing a fire. Copper oxides are conductive and slough off, like iron's rust.
If lightning rod systems are not installed by professionals to meet NFPA code, the system is more of a hazard then a help. Lightning rods are a great idea but hire a professional
No resistance in soft soil. Some cases they run them sideways around the house in a trench. But if that ground is wet and you're near it when it hits. You're Wylie Coyote and his Acme rocket pack. ie toast....
Because of the Soil type the ground is less conductive. They actually make soil conductivity meters for testing soil conduction. This guys been in the business so long though that he already knows what the level of conductivity is based on soil consistency, make up, etc.
The ground rods don't HAVE to go really deep, it all depends on the type of soil. It really has to do with the amount of resistance present. There is a meter specifically to measure earth ground. I've put in great grounds in just 4-5 feet. Just because a ground rod is 20' deep, doesn't mean it's a good ground i.e loose sand is a horrible earth ground. Thing to remember if you don't have a meter is that the deeper, the safer.
Kind of late to the party here, but this is for others, too. Central Florida weather kills roofs pretty bad, faster than most due to the extreme weather conditions we have here. If you drive anywhere near housing here, guaranteed you’ll hear roofing nails being driven in.
You would be surprised how many would say just tie it into the house electrical ground system. Talk about lightning up the whole house. Please don't do that anyone.
+David Learmonth yes even tieing to the piping would be bad. say you are taking a shower and a lighting storm just happen to roll in the electricity would tavel through water and your dead
+David Learmonth But what about the fact that they ran the bare copper lighnting rod wire through the attic? & I noticed that the bare copper lightning rod's wire is butted up against the wooden framework that forms the attic. If this house is struck by lightning, the bare copper wire coming from the lightning rods is going to get hot. Since its butted uo against the wooden framwork of the attic the wood could also become hot & may cause a fire in the attic. Did anyone else notice this fire hazard?
+Adam Spears Unlikely to be a fire hazard as the electricity will move by so quickly that it's radiant heat won't be much of a fire threat. The electricity will be essentially contained to the copper cable as electricity is lazy, wanting the shortest and least resistant path to the ground, so it's not going to be jumping about as it passes along the cable. The process these guys use is an industry standard and not some hack job. Local regulations will prevent reputable contractors from doing unsafe installations, and TOH isn't going to hook up with an disreputable contractor for a demonstration.
The wire is sized to handle the very, very fast load without heating up. Additionally, lightening is high frequency electricity. It does not go through the wire, but around it much like a signal around the center conductor of a COAX cable. This is why the cable is braided so that more load can be carried around all the individual conductors, as well as to cancel out EMP with the cris-cross pattern.
Lightning rods do not attract lightning. They siphon electrons off of the objects that are grounded. Therefore, not letting electrons build up to the point of leaders.
Installing lighting rods aren't a good idea especially in Florida where there's lighting nearly everyday ! Contrary to what they say here they absolutely do attract lighting and make it much more likely you will get struck by lightning. Sure they do offer some protection if your struck but if you didn't have conductive rods on the highest point of your home you might not have gotten hit. Electricity follows 1 basic rule it always travels the path of least resistance to ground. installing ground rods is providing it the perfect path of least resistance. I see it all the time people with lighting rods get hit at much higher rate than homes without them and they usually still have some damage. Just install surge protection it's absolutely your best defence against lightning and other surges .of course these people are in the lighting rod buisness so they aren't going to tell you this they make a profit selling this stuff and it is very expensive to install.
По сути, вы пустили проводник по внутренним деревянным конструкциям. В случае попадания молнии вся эта медь не разогреется до температуры возгорания этого дерева?!
Good, but you are not going to drill a hole in my roof. Experience says no way! The roofing cement will not seal that, especially in our heat, winds and hurricanes.
@@gregmartin1757in fact neither aluminum is required. Since 1983 the aluminum cables are made with aluminum alloyed AA-8000 and this cable doesn't require naolax
They did 'Grounding' by just putting the copper rod in to the soil, I suggest that use of a 12" x 12" copper plate and a mixture of SALT + COAL along with that copper rod is needed in 'earthing' for better efficiency.
That type of grounding is not effective as a deep rod into soil. The next best to a deep rod is rebar in a concrete slab, but that may crack the concrete when lightening heats the rebar and expands it.
Ez kész életveszély! Ha amúgy megúszta volna a ház egy viharba, akkor ezután tuti kigyullad! Padláson-, házon belül vezetni villámhárító kábelt, ráadásul fa tetőgerendához rögzíteni?!? Egy villám esetén az a kábel több száz fokos lesz és az fogja kigyújtani a házat... Villámhárító helyes kiépítése: ua-cam.com/video/texuumWRgWQ/v-deo.html
En meg csak most tajekozodok a temaban es allaspont nelkul bemasolok ide egy tablazatot egy masik forumbol a kulonbozo anyagu levezetok villamcsapas kovetkezteben torteno homerseklet valtozasarol (MSzEN62305-1-D.1.1,-D.41.2.2): Keresztmetszet: Anyag: mm2 Aluminium Acél Réz Rozsdamentes acél 50 52 211 22 940 100 12 37 5 160 A videoban szereplo rez elvileg kb. semmit nem melegszik, mert nagyon jo vezeto. Amit irsz az az acelra, kulonoskeppen a rozsdamentes acelra igaz a tablazat szerint. Mellesleg koszi a videoert, ilyesmit kerestem! :)
berferd2 The problem with that is that it allows the lightning direct entry into your electrical system. There is no surge suppression that will dissipate the full brunt of a direct electrical strike.
With the way they set it up, it is more likely that a direct strike will arc from the copper wire they installed in the roof directly into the house wiring closest to it than if they bonded the ground rods together to further dissipate the charge.
Air has a higher resistance than wire. By bonding your lightning protection system to your electrical system ground rod, you are creating a low resistance path into your electrical system. It is possible to have arcs as well, but that would be in addition to the high energy surge caused by the direct connection of the lightning protection system to the electrical system. The ground rods for the lightning system cannot be placed within 12 feet of any electrical system ground rod and the further they are from the electrical system ground rod the better as lightning has such a high amount of energy to dissipate that you want the electrical system ground rod to not be in the area of energy dissipation for the lightning strike. The electrical system is grounded at both the service entrance and at the electric companies transformer. This makes sharing the electrical system ground rod with the lightning protection system extremely bad.
NEC is code, not opinion: "250.106 Lightning Protection Systems. The lightning protection system ground terminals shall be bonded to the building or structure grounding electrode system."
In a lightning protection system, down conductors need to travel from the air terminal to the earth terminal on the OUTSIDE of the building. They're mounted at a small distance from the wall as well. Under no circumstances, do you route the down conductor through the interior, let alone posing it on wooden beams. Keep in mind, we're talking about UNISOLATED CONDUCTORS. THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD.
rip rodger thank you for the great advice we will all miss you
I wish they had spent much more time talking about the indirect strikes and the surge protection options they used. Or is there another video about that ?
You stealing my name?
ua-cam.com/video/fGpOwUAJ16c/v-deo.html
These guys are good! I don't even own a house, but still watch all their shows. concise, clearly explained and professionally done.
A lot of people freaking out about the conductor being run inside the house. Let me see if I can explain this so it makes sense. The copper conductor is just that - a conductor. It is LOW RESISTANCE which means the current from the strike can pass along it quickly and without any resistance. Resistance is what brings the heat. Ever see a tree that has been struck by lightning? The lightning uses the tree as a conductor to ground. Wood is HIGH RESISTANCE. The current has to really work to follow that wood to the earth and in the process it heats it up and strips the bark. If conductor that was LOW RESISTANCE was in that tree and tied to a ground rod, you wouldn't see any heat build up or damage to the tree. Once lightning gets to permanent moisture in the earth---it dissipates...-This lightning protection system is a continuous circuit from earth ground (the bottom of the ground rod about 10' below grade) up to the tip of the air terminal about 12" above the structure. Earth potential is brought up to the tip of that air terminal above the structure. Tests involving rockets which can create lightning strikes have been conducted and the point of dissipation (aka as a "return stroke leader") from the air terminal to the cloud induced lightning charge is well above the structure. Steel framed skyscrapers get struck by lightning all the time. These buildings have lightning protection systems which utilize the steel framework as the conductor. The roof air terminals are tied to the steel at roof level and the steel is grounded at 60' intervals around the perimeter of the base of the steel. These buildings don't heat up and the steel doesn't melt etc when lightning strikes because steel is considered acceptable as a LOW RESISTANCE conductor. Underwriter's Laboratories and the National Fire Protection Association have standards for lightning protection and they all concur that internal conductors are acceptable.
There is no words for you all how awesome you are 😍 . May be supper awesome . I have leaned a lot from your program ❤ . It is always a great pleasure when I learn a lots of good advise & lessons. My LORD be with U all
Thanks
Very interesting idea to place the cabling inside the attic. Question - should a lightning strike occur, will the electricity passing through the cabling in the attic make a fire more susceptible with burning or charring the wood frame work?
Like the lightning expert with the cute little aluminum ladder
This is obviously a real problem. Did you notice the people with the most experience with lightning didn't have any hair on their heads?
Haha..i did
Maxid1 hahaha😂😂 ikr
That may be true as I myself been hit twice by lightning & numerously times shocked. I am bald only on top but told it's hereditary on your Mother's side of the family as is true my mothers brothers too are all bald just the same as I am.However you never lose the hair around on the sides of your ears & the very back unless it's a cancer or something else. But you know what I say? So what if I am bald, in fact I even shave my head & people act as if though something is wrong with us that are bald. Most people & I mean most men are bald & wear hair pieces & weaves in shame of it. I alway's tell people to be who God made you & don't flatter yourself. Their ain't nobody going to eat you or anybody able to whip my ass as I fear no one & dare everyone to try. l.O.l
The Great OutDoors!
Lightning stimulates hair growth
Key step left out of the video which is bonding the building / structure grounding electrode as per NEC 250.106. Basically run as least #6 bonding cable to the building ground rod from the lighting protection system ground
This system is designed to dissipate charge to prevent a strike, not absorb a strike as many who have posted below believe.
The purpose of an air terminal is to continually bleed off the static charge in the immediate area around the structure to avoid the likelihood of a strike in that area. The sharp point of The aerial is by design for that purpose.
An in ground low impedance ground system bonded to the service entrance ground would serve a different purpose allowing a surge from the incoming line (much more likely) possibly from a lightning strike nearby or an EMP created by a strike in the immediate area which was absorbed into the power lines and entered the structure as a surge.
This is why a whole panel surge arrestor on your main service entrance (outside the building) is so important. A secondary whole panel unit on each sub panel in your home is a great idea... but the primary outdoor unit is the most important. Having it located OUTSIDE is the key. You want to dissipate the surge before it enters the building.
Everything be bonded back to the service entrance ground and nowhere else, and that the neutral/ground bond only exist at the service entrance panel. Otherwise you will always have electrical issues and noise on your power lines.
Google User i'm afraid you sir are mistaken… I'm not sure what your background is, but I have dozens of installations to my credit that I have designed installed and maintained at commercial facilities in regards to lightning remediation.
According to underwriters laboratories The following is the accepted way to bond and lightning protection system to the incoming utility... you'll find this also falls in line with the NEC well as other standards like MIL-STD-188-124A or Motorola R56 both of which I also employ.
Excerpt Below -----
{Common Grounding and Bonding: The lightning protection system grounding system shall be bonded and connected to the grounding electrode system for the electrical service, communication system ground, any antennae system grounds, as well as underground metallic piping systems with main size lightning protection cable and connectors see exception in 10.4.2 for the utilization of ground in accordance with Articles 250, 620,800, and 810.
These systems shall include the water service, well casings located within 25 feet of the structure, gas piping, underground conduits, underground liquefied petroleum gas piping etc.
The connection to any utility gas line shall be on the customer’s side of the meter. The bonding conductor shall be sized the same as the main down conductor and main system conductor.
5. Basic Requirements for System Certification and the UL Master Label Certificate Program
Once the system is completed, Underwriters Laboratories Field Staff can perform an on-site inspection. The system inspection begins with an overall visual inspection for neat and professional installation of the following but not limited to:
Air terminal layout and placement position with at least 2 directional paths to ground based in structure elevation, roof style, and projections as specified within the Zone of Protection.
Air terminals tips shall be a minimum of 10 inches in height above the structure spaced not more than 20 feet apart for perimeter protection
When terminals greater than 24 inches in height are used, they shall be supported at a point at least half the height the rod and be spaced more than 20 but not less than 25 feet apart for perimeter protection
Any object elevated above the normal roof height and with a surface thinner than 3/16 inch shall be protected, i.e.: exhaust fan housings, camera masts, etc.
All lightning protection system components shall be listed, except hardware screws, bolts etc.
Main size conductors shall be used for bonding the lightning protection system to other systems, including, but not limited to: metallic water systems, steam or hot water heating systems, electric services, telephone systems, antenna grounds, other large grounded metallic masses. See section 10 of UL96A for details..
The grounding terminal rod shall be at least 8 ft in length and not less than 1/2 in. dia., buried not less than 10 ft plates, concrete encased, rings and trenched systems are permitted as well.
Copper components are not mounted on aluminum or external galvanized surfaces.
Cable bend radius at corners or over the building sidewall with 90 deg minimums 8 in
radiuses.
Attachment of cable secured to air terminals, and building shall be secured along the cable run and attachments shall not be more than 3 ft apart.
Aluminum components shall not be installed in direct contact of copper roof material or below any run off from copper surfaces.
Aluminum components shall not be in direct contact with earth
Lightning Protection Marking and Application Guide UL and the UL logo are trademarks of UL LLC © 2016 18}
www.ul.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/LightningProtectionAG.pdf
The lighting will travel from the ground to ur house back to the ground. This rod thing will provide the bath for near by strikes to find ur house
I live in Orlando and the lightning is real!
I've seen lightning storms a few times myself here in Saskatchewan, Canada in the winter.
Am I the only one who wonders why they sent Rodger out for this and not tommy or Kevin?
He's on vacation
Deductable. Be smart like Roger. Also, the Earth is Roger's domain.
Should've been the electrician, Scott.
They dug a hole
I hope I don't have a direct lightning strike but I feel a whole lot better that the system is in place. "That will be $10,000.000" Cha Ching!
Sawlid coppah?
That accent is disgusting.
I noticed they didn't test the earth resistance using a megger test I imagine putting 2 10ft rods in the ground would give a decent reading but even so surely those 3 down conductors required a test on them??
Carl Dunne, they using hammer drill. Goes in fasssst. Less labor cost.
Also, won't that copper cabling corrode over time if it's underground and exposed to water? I was expecting them to seal it somehow.
Didn't test or didn't show the test?
A megger is not what you use to test a ground rod. In fact its a horrible way to test it. A megger is for testing motor insulation.
We used to have a single tall lightning rod on our roof, but now I want this.
So if lighting hits the rod on the roof ...the lighting travels "inside" the attic and then back out? That just seems nut to me.
It goes to the grounding rod
@@AgentOffice why not connect it to the meter and run it backwards and get some of your money back!
I hear two lines of thought with regard to lighting rods which this story only addressed one. The installer said the rods do not attract or repel lightning - it only dissipates a lightning strike into the earth.
But other resources suggest a lightning rod will disperse ions from a structure and reduce the likelihood of a strike.
I was also surprised to see the cabling being run through the structure - again I see articles recommending directing the path of a lightning strike away from building materials and structure. The guy is a pro so I am not questioning his approach - just wish there was a little more explanation given.
+Matt Justaddwata He explained it being that running it inside would preclude issues when the roof has to be inevitably redone. If it was outside, then the entire grounding system would likely have to be redone as well. Being as it is run in an out of the way location inside, the lightening is just going to travel along the cable to the ground via the path of least resistance.
because it is a continuous cable, the resistance of wood is extremely high and the electricity would already be on the cable by the time it gets inside, there's really no danger to the structure. Redirecting the strike away from building materials really only matters when the lightning is still in the air or in a metal building
yea but...i'd still want that copper cable shielded from combustable materials though
Yep, in the event of a direct strike, I’m sure that cable and hardware would get extremely hot. I would be concerned about trying to solve one problem and potentially creating a source for a house fire.
I would have wanted more separation from the copper cable to the studs personally as I would think the cable would get rather hot during a strike. If lightning did strike a house with lightning rods, I imagine that there would still be damage to the house, but the damage would most likely be lessened. Maybe having the cable in contact with the wood isn't that much of an issue. Then again I've never had any exposure to any of this.
Lightening rod also constantly drains electrons in the air so it doesnt allow a build up.
They installed a copper lightning rod with a brass fitting onto a steel thread rod, then to copper cable and finally to copper rods. Aren't they adding a lot of resistance with the brass fitting and steel thread rod? Will those dissimilar metals cause corrosion?
Definitely it is very good for Home protection from Lighting.
Not really!
I get a lot of my lights flickering.When my washer starts up.Will a whole house surge protector stop it if it’s installed
No, you're seeing a voltage drop when the motor starts up. A few possible causes, get an electrician to look at it though
I live in SWF and the weather here can be scary especially the lighting it can be WILD
Florida is a lightning capital, as i once heard.
I have a main panelboard which includes the meter and the main disconnect for 200 amps. This box has room for only 8 breakers but also has pass-thru lugs at the bottom of the box. These pass-thru lugs carry power (200 amps) to a subpanel. The main panelboard as well as the subpanel are Square D. Do I install the whole house surge protector in the main panelboard or the subpanel or both. Please advise.
If you want to skip the "How Lightning happens" mumbo jumbo and get to "How to protect your home" skip to 4:25
That coupler connecting the 2 grounds rods is a very poor high resistance connection. It will cetainly corrode over time and be useless. Also bringing lightning in the home and straping the very wire that carries high voltage and current against dry wood is probably not the best idea.
The never mentioned anything about ground potential. Those ground rods per NEC have to be wired together with the electric panel ground or this set up will do more damage then good. I see several possible major issues with this setup.
Well said ! I also didn't care for this installation at all !
Will this work for metal deck roofing..
there's no way in hell you'd ever get me to allow running the ground cable thru my attic or inside walls. I've seen a super strike blow up a huge oak tree before from 100 yards away. Still makes me shudder. No way in hell!
I fail to see any reason it cannot be run outside in such a way that it can be easily worked around when redoing the roof. I wouldn't go as far to call it a complete hack job, but they definitely cut corners.
There's less water to flash to steam inside a copper cable. Less resistance too.
They’re only doing that so Marty can get back to the future. 1.21 Jigawatts
Hi, can I plant a lightning through a conduit at my home? Please help me if you can.
Great. 👍✌🌷🙋♂️😊 you western countries peoples are very professional & technocratic- nice vdo. Clear voice.
I have a metal antennae tower in the ground next to my house and it is connected to the side of my roof with a bracket . It is connected to a grounding rod in the ground but I don't know how substantial it is. The tower with the old antennae on it is about 50 feet tall. It is pretty cool but I wonder if it means I am more vulnerable to damage. I have a digital antennae mounted to it and I use the old antennae wire for FM reception, but I could take the top 20 feet or so down... carefully with a sawzall and some sort of prop.
I sure wouldn't cut the power down any shorter but you can add to the ground rod by placing a rod on either side 6 or 10 feet away bonding them together.
I think the key is that you only ground to one of them or each one serves one or more air terminals exclusively for instance at opposite ends of a large building or house keeping the length of the run to a bare minimum.
Do not interconnect the runs from the farthest air terminal to a ground rod run to other air terminals to a ground rod runs.
@@chauvinemmons Thank you. I'll look into it more. Sounds more complicated than I imagined. You know your stuff.
I think the key is that you don't create a ground loop where you have different potentials based on the ground resistance on multiple grounds I would also say that you must keep all your runs to the ground as short as reasonably possible.
This is one of those areas where you won't find a whole lot of information the whole lightning thing is like black magic the higher the air contact is the better as it protects an area around the terminal equal to the height .
I'm sorry my phone does terrible things when I hit send
Why didn't you put the rod at the power meter or use the rod that might already be on the power meter?
My brothers neighbor just lost their house to a direct strike and it's really making me think about doing this to mine
Got huge trees by a structure should it be protected
When Jim Cantore shows up inside your house, you're REALLY screwed!
I hope that the contractor bonded the ground rod attached to the electric meter underground to the lightning system ground rods. If not, that creates different ground potentials and is a hazard in case of a strike.
Interesting 👍
what was the tag in that 'protection system'?
Nice work thanks for share
I'm a European from a big-ish city - we have buildings anywhere from 5 to 25 floors - but this is the first time i see this many lightning rods on such a small structure and also ran through the inside, on the wooden rafters? Like, wouldn't that copper cable turn glowing hot when it gets hit? ... In my eyes, they just made sure that the house will burn down in an event of lightning
KeeDx3 you are deadly wrong and still34u is 100% correct.Read my reply to the SlackerSlayer comment and replies.
@@paulm3886 It's true that the conductors don't heat up that much when charged. The only thing that gets and significant heating is the air terminal
Question.? What was the Apx Cost of installing what was done to his House for those Lightning Rods etc.?
What happens if the outdoor surge protector gets a direct hit from a lightning strike? 🌩️🤔
can you pls hlep us lighting is hitting in fresno
It will make it better
dude is a unit.
Jim!!!
Im assuming majority old homes don’t have this right?
Someone please explain to me why the conductor wouldnt get hot and cause a fire next to that wood
The wire would heat up and expand... but slightly. Lightning's effect is nearly instantaneous; likely not enough to cause a discernible/noticeable difference in either expansion nor heat build-up. The opposite would be a tiny wire; which would not be able to carry the current and overheat and melt; an infinitely thick wire wouldn't even 'see' the current; this is somewhere in between where likely the experts have determined that X thickness of wire (read the codes on this for Class I or II; 1/0 AWG for CCA or 2AWG for Copper) is the minimum required thickness to meet the code. You can likely reach out to the writers of the code for empirical back-up on these thicknesses/diameters. I, for one, will trust their expertise and buy at least the minimum and perhaps one thicker to 'guarantee' no issues (depending upon cost up-tick, of course).
1 AGW copper is about 1 1/4 times as expensive as 2 AGW wire.
1AWG is 42.4mm^2, 2AWG is 33.6mm^2, so 26.2% increase in area - - makes sense. I would probably go the next size or two up and switch over to aluminum, depending on the cost savings from Copper-to-Aluminum. Ref: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
except you shouldnt for the very reason aluminum wiring is nolonger used in homes: as aluminum ages the oxide layer gets larger, being an insulator this can cause a spark to form, jumping over the oxide layer, causing a fire. Copper oxides are conductive and slough off, like iron's rust.
Thanks Ben!
What is a typical cost for a home like this?
130-150k for central florida. Im here and see these homes everyday.
A lightning protection system for a large home costs about $2000 (Copper is expensive and multiple lightning rods are required).
could you melt scrap copper wire and mold your own lightning rods for the roof to save money on expenses?
@@1chance4life76 you need multi strand copper wire because of "skin effect"
Our HOA would not allow lightning rod cables on he roof. In the attic works perfectlyvell and lookso much better.
Why the need to trim a few inches from the top of the threaded rod?
To make sure it doesn't catch a flying kite!🪁🤣
just use a portable lightning rod?
just curious, what about the gas meter? or are you just f-ed if lightning strikes that?
Listing rode parchacing sir
those rods should have a point on it to bleed charge.
Best way to protect your house. - stone dust
I love to use a material called Pack. Lol Rodgers sound bites are hilarious
@@Sajin688 we’ll use this mix-cha of 3 quartah inch stone and stone dust
So, All 3 are - or Aren’t connected ??
Just make sure you don't comb your hair before going outside.
Don't walk the dog.
Stay away from being under a tree.
Be sorry for all your sins🤣
I hope Ben doesn't have any damages
I see some electrical code violations in that office building
Would this protect against a solar flare event or an EMP strike? I see products out there that claim too but I am thinking they are snake oil.
pay all that money, his house will never get hit by lightning.
Irony of feeling better with the whole system in place is that if anything fails the anger level go up 100x.
If lightning rod systems are not installed by professionals to meet NFPA code, the system is more of a hazard then a help. Lightning rods are a great idea but hire a professional
Why do the ground rods go so deep?
To reach an area that had more moisture, the grounding rod would not be effective in the upper sandy soil.
No resistance in soft soil. Some cases they run them sideways around the house in a trench. But if that ground is wet and you're near it when it hits. You're Wylie Coyote and his Acme rocket pack. ie toast....
A question the gay community has been asking for decades.... no answers as of yet.
Because of the Soil type the ground is less conductive. They actually make soil conductivity meters for testing soil conduction. This guys been in the business so long though that he already knows what the level of conductivity is based on soil consistency, make up, etc.
The ground rods don't HAVE to go really deep, it all depends on the type of soil. It really has to do with the amount of resistance present. There is a meter specifically to measure earth ground. I've put in great grounds in just 4-5 feet. Just because a ground rod is 20' deep, doesn't mean it's a good ground i.e loose sand is a horrible earth ground. Thing to remember if you don't have a meter is that the deeper, the safer.
It's no surprise the ginger is a big dope
"eventually when they replace the roof" didn't know that roofs are replaced that often
It's a shingle roof. It *will* need to be replaced at some point.
Well if you build houses as cheap like they do in the US, its not build to replace not to last a long time.
Kind of late to the party here, but this is for others, too.
Central Florida weather kills roofs pretty bad, faster than most due to the extreme weather conditions we have here. If you drive anywhere near housing here, guaranteed you’ll hear roofing nails being driven in.
You would be surprised how many would say just tie it into the house electrical ground system. Talk about lightning up the whole house. Please don't do that anyone.
SlackerSlayer I thought I'd heard to tie it to the copper piping as a way to dissipate it. But I expect that would be dangerous inside still.
+David Learmonth yes even tieing to the piping would be bad. say you are taking a shower and a lighting storm just happen to roll in the electricity would tavel through water and your dead
+David Learmonth But what about the fact that they ran the bare copper lighnting rod wire through the attic? & I noticed that the bare copper lightning rod's wire is butted up against the wooden framework that forms the attic. If this house is struck by lightning, the bare copper wire coming from the lightning rods is going to get hot. Since its butted uo against the wooden framwork of the attic the wood could also become hot & may cause a fire in the attic.
Did anyone else notice this fire hazard?
+Adam Spears Unlikely to be a fire hazard as the electricity will move by so quickly that it's radiant heat won't be much of a fire threat. The electricity will be essentially contained to the copper cable as electricity is lazy, wanting the shortest and least resistant path to the ground, so it's not going to be jumping about as it passes along the cable.
The process these guys use is an industry standard and not some hack job. Local regulations will prevent reputable contractors from doing unsafe installations, and TOH isn't going to hook up with an disreputable contractor for a demonstration.
The wire is sized to handle the very, very fast load without heating up. Additionally, lightening is high frequency electricity. It does not go through the wire, but around it much like a signal around the center conductor of a COAX cable. This is why the cable is braided so that more load can be carried around all the individual conductors, as well as to cancel out EMP with the cris-cross pattern.
I disagree that lightning rods don’t attract lightning. If I was lightning I would go right to that 12” copper rod.
amazin theach
How many way to install lighting protection?
How can I buy this thing Because
I'm in Cambodia.
Buy it on Amazon.
@@yhnbgt365 Dude that's most probably not a solution.
I thought that lightning rods were a bad idea since they attract lightning.
Lightning rods do not attract lightning. They siphon electrons off of the objects that are grounded. Therefore, not letting electrons build up to the point of leaders.
ua-cam.com/video/zhu5pIrPw7U/v-deo.html
That’s not the wuz pat ... 😂I love rodge ..
After watching, Lightning problem fixed.
Jim looks like he could be good at MMA. Strong and has extremely long arms. Give it a shot Jim!
Jim "The Thunder" Cantore
Installing lighting rods aren't a good idea especially in Florida where there's lighting nearly everyday !
Contrary to what they say here they absolutely do attract lighting and make it much more likely you will get struck by lightning. Sure they do offer some protection if your struck but if you didn't have conductive rods on the highest point of your home you might not have gotten hit. Electricity follows 1 basic rule it always travels the path of least resistance to ground. installing ground rods is providing it the perfect path of least resistance. I see it all the time people with lighting rods get hit at much higher rate than homes without them and they usually still have some damage. Just install surge protection it's absolutely your best defence against lightning and other surges .of course these people are in the lighting rod buisness so they aren't going to tell you this they make a profit selling this stuff and it is very expensive to install.
There is a apple lightning port pun to *strike* here
Sorry, I has to turn the video off once I saw the Apple on the bench...
So wait... now the guy is going to have 1.21 Gigawatts jolting through his attic running into the ceiling joists. This is safe?????
По сути, вы пустили проводник по внутренним деревянным конструкциям. В случае попадания молнии вся эта медь не разогреется до температуры возгорания этого дерева?!
Huh?
No, The duration is about 30 microseconds and too short to locally heat up directly.
Every crackhead driving by this guy's house now..........Ooooooohhhhh...Look at all that copper!
This is like when Lisa was selling homer a rock that repels tigers, you dont see any tigers do you? He should of spend that money in Lottery tickets
1.12 gigawatts.
Ya boiiii
why’s his left arm look bigger
Good, but you are not going to drill a hole in my roof. Experience says no way! The roofing cement will not seal that, especially in our heat, winds and hurricanes.
copper? that guy must be rich to afford this
WHAT? NO NOALOX anti-oxidizing compound ? WTF ????
Copper wire doesn't require it . Aluminium conductor do .
@@gregmartin1757in fact neither aluminum is required. Since 1983 the aluminum cables are made with aluminum alloyed AA-8000 and this cable doesn't require naolax
They did 'Grounding' by just putting the copper rod in to the soil, I suggest that use of a 12" x 12" copper plate and a mixture of SALT + COAL along with that copper rod is needed in 'earthing' for better efficiency.
That type of grounding is not effective as a deep rod into soil. The next best to a deep rod is rebar in a concrete slab, but that may crack the concrete when lightening heats the rebar and expands it.
buying a home in texas the selar has to disclose if this feature comes with the house for that reason
What do you eat Jim?
Ez kész életveszély!
Ha amúgy megúszta volna a ház egy viharba, akkor ezután tuti kigyullad! Padláson-, házon belül vezetni villámhárító kábelt, ráadásul fa tetőgerendához rögzíteni?!?
Egy villám esetén az a kábel több száz fokos lesz és az fogja kigyújtani a házat...
Villámhárító helyes kiépítése:
ua-cam.com/video/texuumWRgWQ/v-deo.html
En meg csak most tajekozodok a temaban es allaspont nelkul bemasolok ide egy tablazatot egy masik forumbol a kulonbozo anyagu levezetok villamcsapas kovetkezteben torteno homerseklet valtozasarol (MSzEN62305-1-D.1.1,-D.41.2.2):
Keresztmetszet: Anyag:
mm2 Aluminium Acél Réz Rozsdamentes acél
50 52 211 22 940
100 12 37 5 160
A videoban szereplo rez elvileg kb. semmit nem melegszik, mert nagyon jo vezeto. Amit irsz az az acelra, kulonoskeppen a rozsdamentes acelra igaz a tablazat szerint.
Mellesleg koszi a videoert, ilyesmit kerestem! :)
Lightning is FIVE TIMES the temperature of the sun? Really? Where are the fact checkers on that whopper?
Imagine. You're real name is Guy.
That home owner should have called a barber rescue.
They should have tied the ground rod they installed to the service entrance ground rod.
berferd2 The problem with that is that it allows the lightning direct entry into your electrical system. There is no surge suppression that will dissipate the full brunt of a direct electrical strike.
With the way they set it up, it is more likely that a direct strike will arc from the copper wire they installed in the roof directly into the house wiring closest to it than if they bonded the ground rods together to further dissipate the charge.
Air has a higher resistance than wire. By bonding your lightning protection system to your electrical system ground rod, you are creating a low resistance path into your electrical system. It is possible to have arcs as well, but that would be in addition to the high energy surge caused by the direct connection of the lightning protection system to the electrical system. The ground rods for the lightning system cannot be placed within 12 feet of any electrical system ground rod and the further they are from the electrical system ground rod the better as lightning has such a high amount of energy to dissipate that you want the electrical system ground rod to not be in the area of energy dissipation for the lightning strike. The electrical system is grounded at both the service entrance and at the electric companies transformer. This makes sharing the electrical system ground rod with the lightning protection system extremely bad.
NEC is code, not opinion: "250.106 Lightning Protection Systems. The lightning protection
system ground terminals shall be bonded to the building or
structure grounding electrode system."
what? no way
In a lightning protection system, down conductors need to travel from the air terminal to the earth terminal on the OUTSIDE of the building. They're mounted at a small distance from the wall as well. Under no circumstances, do you route the down conductor through the interior, let alone posing it on wooden beams. Keep in mind, we're talking about UNISOLATED CONDUCTORS. THIS IS A FIRE HAZARD.
No thanks not going to drill 5 holes in my roof