Interesting reading the comments. Some people have had luck with this and others not so much. As pointed out by some commenters and my patrons, the CB1 is not compatible with some of the displays that the Pi is. This includes BTT's own Raspberry Pad pi display. Please double check compatibility for your hardware before going down this route.
you need to see this. input shaping on marlin via stepper drivers with microcontrollers for cartesian printers. no need for a raspi. this changes the game. he does a speed benchy in 12:45. ua-cam.com/video/8o5v12im6UY/v-deo.html
Thank you for another great video.Unfortunately the limited time I have is taken up by experimenting with trying to get PETG or ABS anywhere near the quality of PLA on my End3V2, so I would optimistically think the Pi won't be nearly as much trial and error and pay extra for the latest version, if I could get one and even then there is still a limit and I don't like to reward gougers whether they sell toilet paper during pandemics or Pis during chip crises. The other option is to wait a bit. I'm counting on the brains trust that is youtubers like your channel and your very switched on audience to provide solutions, and hopefully this alternative or another option bears fruit,. Other than raspberries that is
Not quite a drop-in solution but fitting in the same location is itself quite valuable. Pretty much any pi substitute is going to take some linux admin work, but this looks far better than most pi substitutes for 3D printing. I've been using old thin clients to drive my klipper and octoprint instances. Kiauh should be handy for automating the admin work on most solutions.
Micheal, you did it. You convinced a non coder to believe that I could achieve this task. Unfortunately, I have failed . I have octoprint up and running as soon a I close out of putty the server stops. 😢 Now I have an over priced laptop running putty to run octoprint on the CB1.😊 Web cams are not working as well I don’t even know where to begain. 😊I tried to install Debian and I received an error that the H616 current failed. Some thing about u boot. All things aside. Keep it up I enjoy your content. 😊
I just recently purchased manta m4p and a manta e3ez and 2 CB1s for my DIY Ender 3. As I’ve been running professional, firmware on a 4.2.7 board, but now wanting to try Klipper for the first time using these boards. Thanks to all your videos over the last three years. Have a very successful experience with my Ender 3. So Thanks again
Thanks for the guide Michael. Got my CB1 running octoprint in around 4hours last night following this. Most tricky part was figuring out that where some of the file paths in the manual install guide need to change from home/pi to home/biqu, as well as changing the user to biqu. Once I twigged that and updated the links, all working well, even webcam running nicely. Now to make an image of the install so don't have to do it again! :p and then onto the Marlin config for the Manta M5P... (Klipper will come later)
An interesting solution, if you want to both change the board and convert to klipper or build a new printer with klipper (like a voron). But if you just want to upgrade an existing printer with an already good enough board, there are much cheaper options, like just using an old ThinClient (theese smal computers mostly used in banks and insurances, as they are mostly used as "terminals", not storing customer data localy). They are practicly smal PCs made of parts normaly used in notebooks. As they are replaced every 3-5 years, a lot of used ones come to the secondary market. I got some 6 year old ones about 2 years ago for about 8 bucks each - Fujitsu Futro S900 with Siemens D3003 board with 2GB-RAM. Just for fun, after adding an SSD and 2GB extra RAM I tried Windows 10 - it worked. So quite powerfull. But of course, for debian without GUI you can simply use an USB-Stick as boot-device or a smal msata and no extra RAM. They use a little bit more space - but of course, you can change to a Pi later, when they are available again. Also it depend on the printer - in an Anicubic Chiron or Predator, there should be no problem to add the D3003 board directly (but there a new board makes sense, as both printers have Alegro drivers) As you have no "ready2use" image anyway, I see no big difference in using old ThinClients (which will be electronic waste anyways if you do not find an other use for them) or a "substitude pi" beside saving money an being more eco-friendly reusing old hardware. The main reason for the Pi is ease of use pre-configured images.
100% agree. The pre-configured Pi images are a huge bonus but without a Pi the thin-clients are fantastic. I've been picking up Dell 7040 micros for this purpose recently. My CNC software will be installed on one this weekend, hopefully my Home Assistant , OPNSense, Klipper and NAS installations will eventually go this way as well.
@@hd-be7di Actually not. "PC" stands for "Personal Computer". A client is just a client for a server. So the OS typical Windows CE (very old Thin Clients) or Linux with Cytrix. Theese clients are used by insurrances and banks, there critical data never should be stored or even only cached on the client. Practicly they just something like a remote desktop. However, as there is the same hardware used as on notebooks, you could use them as a PC. Depending on the RAM and storage you need, as they typicly come with quite low RAM and storage - as they only should start the client software. But while a Compact Flash with 0.5 or 1GB on a 12 year old ThinClient is a bit low for using it as a PC, 1 or 2 GB of RAM is enough, esp if you do not need a gui. However, many thin clients have a sata connector, so upgrading storage isn't a big deal. Of course, newer ThinClients often have more storage and RAM, simply because they are cheaper to get for the manufacurer. Still, they do not come with a "normal" OS. So hardwarewise there are many simularitys between a mini PC and a thin client, and if you upgrade them you could use them as a PC. However, as banks and insurrances mostly lease their hardware instead buying it, huge numbers of ThinClients come to the secondary market at once if a contracts end. As they do not come with an OS, have very smal storage and enter the secondary market in hugh numbers at once, they sometimes sell ingcredibly cheap. A few years ago I got Futro S900 for about 8€ each with 1GB RAM and 2GB mSATA. With a computing power better than a Pi 4, but definitly not a "Mini PC". But very usefull for tastk like home automation, PBX or klipper. You might upgrade the RAM if you want to run multiple instances of klipper.
This is perfect. I recent burned out the serial controller on my pi4b (whoops) and just this morning was preparing myself to pay the highway robbery price for a replace pi via Amazon just to get up and running again. I'll gladly take the fiddly route over giving in to scalpers
I give another vote for the Orange Pi. I've used them extensively and I think good value for money. They're not as powerful as the BTT or Raspberry but are fine for running octopi and klipper. They are more or less a drop in replacement for the Raspberry Pi in those applications. I do think that you'd have to be very careful trying to run a camera at the same time though, although I haven't tried this. The orange pi also comes with a rather nice wifi antenna, too, giving good range. The banana pi I bought was bit of a dead loss because no wifi with it. There is an add-on module for this, but I think it works out poor value once you factor that in.
I’m using the Orange pi a lot. Using it with Debian, I have them running octoprint, fluidd and mainsail. The only thing is that you need to do a bit more manual install of bits and pieces of software, but it works flawlessly. I use both the orange pi 3 lts, and orange pi 4 lts. It’s priced at almost 60% of the price of the Raspberry.
I came by this video since I was looking at buying the BTT M4P for my ageing Geeetech A10 printer. I'm not an electronics expert, but I think after watching this video I'd certainly give it a try. Thanks!
Another cheap alternative are thin clients. You can buy used units really cheaply, just need to make sure they are complete with disk, memory and power supply, because buying it all separatelly can double the price of the whole thing (still really cheap tho). Some short instructional video on setting up klipper etc. on a thin client could be helpfull, as there arent many such videos.
I was sent a Manta m8 and cb1 for testing from a klipper - linux beginner and they have improved the distro a great deal since the first version. I did make a mistake of buying a PI TFT5 v2.0 thinking I could use it, but the CB1 doesn't support the display or camera on the FFC ports so HDMI only. I am going to be using it with my Chiron so I can use the dual Z with the end stops in klipper as soon as I have time.
I have a pi 4b, can I just use it with the Manta 8P and their 7" touchscreen? I am currently running klipper out of pi4b, but I would like to add the M8P board and drivers, and the touchscreen, but I am confused as to what touchscreens would work with my set up
I mean, can I just use a PC running linux? I got a small form factor media server, can I just use that to instead of a pi and plug in BTT 7" touchscreen to that through HDMI?
You had better luck than I have had with it. I purchased the CB1+PI4b and haven't been able to get the CB1 working. In the first one the wifi was unstable and would just go up and down. BTT sent me another and it won't stay powered up. It cycles constantly. I have given up on the CB1 and will try to find a CM4 to use.
I don't comment much (at all, on any videos) but I've watched nearly all of the videos you've made and am a big fan/follower... I know you built the ratrig as a community build which turned out pretty awesome! I'm curious if you would build a voron v2.4 type printer as there seem to be quite a few differences in building these as compared to most others as they're not a mainstream mass produced platform? They seem awesome. I just figured I'd ask because I'd never seen much mentioned of the vorons but would love to follow along on this type of build with as in depth as your videos are being this is my plan for a fairly close future build as I'm currently collecting materials to build a 2.4 r2.
I got mine a few weeks ago and was able to set up the image and have it running the printer in about a day. Getting webcam support on mainsail was less simple...
I was considering using a CB1 on a future build however I hadnt checked how it fares compared to the pi. After watching your video I think it worth a shot as I intend to use Mainsail which is much lighter than Octoprint, so it should function just as well and save more than 100 bucks!
Michael, good video. I've got a Libre "Le Potato" and an Orange PI that I grabbed for testing app compatibility, so I could free up an RP 4 for other things than 3d printer duty. I haven't gotten that done yet, but I now have a couple more options. Thanks!
Libre Computer makes some very good Raspberry Pi alternatives. I run Klipper on a Le Potato as well, and at $35 it's a really good deal. It installed really easy on both their Armbian and Raspbian builds using KIAUH. I did find it easier to get SPI working in their Raspbian build, which I needed for an accelerometer. The newer armbian builds may have fixed that (I haven't went back and tried).
I've got a Manta M8P in my FLSun SR, and besides being a bit of a bear to mechanically install (it's too wide to fit in between the side of the case and the standoffs that you bolt the stock fan into) it's been great so far. one of my initial concerns was that the 64mhz MCU on the board wouldn't be fast enough to handle high speeds and accelerations in klipper, but at a max print speed of 200mm/s and accelerations of 3000mm/s^2, MCU load gets a bit over 10% when it's going full steam (albeit only with 4 steppers still).
Great video, I picked up a Formbot T-Rex 2+ on the used market and I am really considering running the BTT Manta M8P w/ CB1 and I also just watched your video on CAN bus so I'm thinking I'll be implementing both of those in this printer! Thanks for your excellent videos, I've found myself referencing a lot of them. Cheers
I really like the CB1, because we don't actually need RPIs for our printers, RPI for a printer are so overpowered it's crazy. CB1 is being barely used when running fast prints. So I think CB1 saves us cash and doesn't push the price of RPIs up for people who ACTUALLY need to use them and can ONLY use them, because a CB1 would be too slow for them.
I'll be definitely considering the manta board given that I had a lot of connection problems with my Pi and stock ender 3 board via usb... No cables means less things prone to errors plus I'd love to try klipper and I can't imagine working with it when I get connection error at least 3 times while printing 12h print...
Just a note about putty, It's unnecessary nowadays as ssh in PowerShell is now built in and vscode offers a generally better experience, being able to drag and drop file onto your device and navigate files through the ui. Seperately, I notice the Bambulab gone from the background and was wondering if there was some issue with it?
Very helpful video, I have this setup on a Ender3 V2 working very well. There are a few changes to watch out for following the manual setup for Octoprint but overall very easy to get up and running. Liked and subscribed.
Or you could just use a free operating system. And no it's not powershell having it baked in. It's windows having a full version of Linux in the power shell. Cringe.
@@M1America WSL isn’t installed by default. SSH is indeed installed by default in cmd and power shell on windows 10/11. While I agree using Linux (or anything, really) is better than windows, not everyone has the option or the desire. If they aren’t going to install Linux, they should use the internal app rather than a third party one. It’s more secure.
My two cents on the CB1 (I had bought a M8P and a CB1 quite some time ago for a Voron build I never started and now I used it to rebuild my Anycubic Mega X electronics - I know, it´s too much for a simple no-idex bedslinger, but I had at hands and I don´t plan on building the Voron anymore it so I used it). Setup was very easy, no hassles there. Webcam (Logitech C270) works just fine. Installed a few add ons to Klipper (KAMP, timelapse, Obico) and works just fine. Still haven´t tested with the BTT PiTFT50 screen because I´m waiting for a longer cable to arrive (probably tomorrow). The only issue I had with the CB1 was absurd overheating. It might be due to ambient temperatures in my city currently nearing 40C, but still, it´s running at 65C and higher (heating up, even though slowly) when on idle. Added a heatsink to it and the only benefit was the overheating slowing down. So, I´ve added a 35mm fan which actually solved the problem, reducing the host temp to acceptable 45C. However, I still haven´t figured out how to keep a fan always on in Klipper (it´s a dumb fan, no PWM, so I can´t use the temperature_fan function from what I understand) , so it´s running along with the stepper fans (stepstick_fan) in a multi_pin setup, which cools down the host properly during prints, but still leads to temperature increase when idle and the stepper fans are not on. I don´t think it´s normal, considering that it´s idle with low CPU usage and heating up like this. At least it doesn´t freezes up anymore when printing. The Z-Tilt adjustment (when using dual steppers) is a must for dual Z motors! :)
Hi michael, your channel is a massive help! thanks for everything what Raspberry Pi solution would you recommend? Orange pi, BTT CB1, or MKS pi 1.1? thank you
If I wanted to use an old desktop computer and install Unbutu on it to run multiple instances of Klipper on it for lets say 4 printers, what specs should I look for? I have not seen much information on this. I have 2 printers now, but if I buy an old machine off eBay or something I want to make sure it has the power to expand further. Could an old Dell Optiplex take the place of 4 Raspberry Pi's? Then I can route all to a single central KlipperScreen.
I posted on fb ender 3 page about running the new M4P with the CB1. Definitely an option I’m toying with and may even just get the M8P instead as I’m also toying with converting my Ender 3 Pro to a corxy or similar machine.
Sorry for such a basic question, but can Klypper and Octoprint run on x86 linux? I love this idea as a Pi replacement (I’m looking into oem boards to play w gpio), but if those two apps can run on x86, I’d prolly go with a tinyPC. However, I really appreciate the ‘compatibility’ work you’ve done for this Bigtreetech printer application as it helps demystify what works with what in the SBC world. Edit. You sold me on the BTT CB1 with the Pi4B as a Pi replacement, I’ve three pairs of boards on order; I wish the ComputeBoard came in additional memory configs but 1GB really is sufficient for starters, especially when you rightly compared the BTT option to a Pi3B. 2nd edit. I nixed the tinyPC consideration and am going straight to the Manta 8P board and the CB1. Why reinvent a wheel when you’ve laid out everything so well!! Messing around w firmware, config files and hardware changes is one of the reasons I got into this hobby. Man, really well done presentation.
Hi Michael, I own a CB1(used on Manta E3EZ, with TFT35SPI in a Voron T0), a MKS-PI with PI-TS35 (with a BTT SKR1.4 in a Voron Switchwire), a Orange PI Zero2 (with a Fysetc Cheetah2 in a Voron V0.1), a Orange PI PC (with SKR2 in a modded Eryone ER20) and a RPI4B (with a Octopus Pro with BTT PITFT50 in a Voron V2.4). Further I have a Orange Pi 3 LTS (with a BTT HDMI TFT50) not in a printer yet, but tested in the V2.4. The CB1 and MKS-PI only have "preconfigured" OSes where a user is already created. BTT has not disclosed the root password, which leads to a hassle to change it. BTT uses debian, MKS armbian. At least it is no problem to get the BTT CB1 OS up to date. MKS is a complete different animal: The armbian is outdated (May22), their touchscreen (bundle) doesn't work properly, they(MKS) locked part of updates "to protect the user". Luckily a guy (redrathnure on github, doesn't even owns a MKS-PI) made a armbian AND that fixes so many problems. For the Orange PIs I use armbian bullseye minimal. Here and with redrathnure MKS-PI armbian (Ubuntu based) you are asked with the 1st boot to change the "root" password AND to create a user. I usually upgade (apt update && apt upgrade), configure the WLAN with "nmtui" and reboot. Then as user (eg. pi) I install KIAUH and then Klipper etc. The only drawback with the Orange PI Zero2 is that I had to use an older armbian bullseye (22.02.2) as newer had problems. All TFTs work fine with Klipperscreen. Both Allwinner H616 PIs, the CB-1 and Orange PI Zero2 run at the higher end temperature wise. Both NEED heatsinks AND a fan! Even with that the run at ~60° in a 18°C room. The MKS-PI (RK32xx) is just tailing them with ~55°C. The Orange PI 3 LTS and RPI4B run around ~35°C. All tested ~30 minutes into a print. My verdict is: if you cannot get a Raspberry PI, get a Orange PI 3 LTS. The 3 LTS has an Allwinner H6, 2GB RAM AND 8GB eMMC for ~€50. You can use the BTT HDMI50 with it and armbian works with it, no jumping through loops. The CB1 I would only use in a Manta board, but only untill the RPI CM4 are available again.
I am wondering how the support will be. The pi foundation and community has been great for every aspect of the software. I looked into Rockpi, and others but the support seems limited, and abandoned after a short time. I also use the manual octopi install because I can run pinhole along side of it that way. Fresh lite install, then pinhole, then octopi.
Great guide. I’ve been waiting for a guide like this to move to Klipper. So for a basic single extruder printer, the version with 4 drivers should work? And a printer that supports 2 extruders go with the larger 8 driver board?
I already ordered the CB1 & Pi adaptor board. I've been debating the M4P vs the M8P and the PiTFT 5.0 they offer. It seems like a very clean way to run Klipper and Klipper Screen. I will NOT buy a Pi at it's current gouging prices and some of the alternatives are "creeping" in price as the Pi stays out of the picture or are being snatched up at an alarming rate, if you find what you want in stock, you had better buy it.
Another great video, thank you. I am building an enclosure for my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I want to control lights, heater, and any other device either made or purchased. From what I gathered, this combination should be able to do this. Is that correct? And using OctoPrint to control those devices as well? Thanks again, any pointers greatly appreciated.
Just grabbed the CB1 and PI4 adapter plus the heat sink. I am building a Voron 0.1 with an SKR Pico board. This should work out. I do have a Pi Zero 2W, but don’t want to use it if I don’t have to.
I'm interested in one of these for my newly nearly bought-nit yet built Sapphire Plus and this review is great in helping me to wether keep the Banana pi M2 Zero with the MKS robin nano it includes, getting just an octopus and reuse the BPi or go Manta; I just have a question though: I saw you added a wifi antenna to the CB1, does that mean wifi is poor by itself?
Not to mention, whatever Pi you can find out there, they are almost scalping prices as well. So much for affordable. Glad I got my two before this “chip crisis”.
I ended up ordering the manta4/CB1/TMC2209x4 combo kit after watching your videos I hope I am up to the task. I own a CR10-S5 with a Bondtech DDX/Mosquito kit. Was lingering on just getting a sonic pad for ease of install for klipper but I didn't want the 8-bit board to hold me back. I need remote access and can't seem to find a raspberry pi.
How do you feel about the ultra fine particles created by 3d printing? I've seen mixed information about the possible long term effects of exposure to even "non-toxic" filaments like petg/pla. Do you still enclose your printers regardless of filament choice?
I have an airfilter (with replacable HEPA and activated charcoal panels) I got of eBay sitting behind my resin orinter station, with my FDM printer sitting next that desk. I have only used eco-resin so my friends like to point to it as overkill.
If RatOS ever becomes available for the M8P I will consider using it. I have been thinking of upgrading my V-Core 3 500 from a Duet board to use Klipper but the the RPi became so rare that I cannot get one to use the available RatOS builds. I am not willing to put in the time and effort to figure out all the settings myself with almost zero experience and therefore uncertain results. So if the time comes that I can just download a working system for the M8P-CB1 combo and only adjust what things I want to behave differently then I will definitely buy one.
Great review, Thank you!! But I did not have the same luck as you did. I ordered the Manta M8P and 2 PI4B adapters, all with the CB1, and for the life of me can't get the WI-FI to stay connected (if and when they connect). Been in contact with BTT, as this has been going since day one (over a week), and looks like they will be sending me replacement CB1s. BTT Github has several people with the same issue as me. It is very frustrating
Hi grate videos very helpful and inspiring, I am wanting to build a actively heated printer similar to your ender 5 but I will be using the ender 5 plus as the base and would like to use the dual z with G34, is it working going to the M8P board or use the CB1+P14B with a board with 5 stepper drivers. Also would love to see more of your ender 5 build.
Hi! Sorry if its too basic to ask. I am new to this! I want to ask if I want to use external Motor driver for my stepper motor, can I use it? Because my torque requirements are higher then conventional NEMA 17, So my selected motor has an Amps of 3.5. The 5160T Pro is expansive for me to buy.. so was wondering is there a scope to add external driver like TB6600 to Manta M4P which can support 5A. thank you
A53 is older processor, the CB1 is more equivalent to the Raspberry Pi 3B and you should compare it to the older Raspberry Pi 3B, not the Raspberry Pi 4. Personally, I like that BigTreeTech released this, but it would have been nice to have better compatibility with the Raspberry Pi, but from what I have heard, the CB1 is very reliable
Hi Michael, is it possible to power on the CB1/CM4 individually without powering on the rest of the board? I like to keep my octoprint running and have it automaticly turn on the printer(through smart plug) when i upload file from prusaslicer. I would like to try klipper and would like to retain this functionality.
for anyone having a weird issue where you cant type in the password into putty or mobaxterm as the line seems to freeze without showing anything, the consistent way i found to get it is type the password biqu and then spam enter, this allowed me to get into it. it doesnt resolve the issue but at least you dont have to do it often
How about canbus with m4p. I was looking at the hermit crab quick change adapter. Does the hermin crab can use a stepper driver from the board? Can you use dual direct drive with the hermit crab can? How hard is re configuring klipper when you change print heads or swap a laser? I'm not finding a lot of info out there yet.
I ordered one because pis are so hard to come by. Yes I want to see more. I love pis. And this one maybe the one that gets my ender 5 plus up and running as I don't trust my old pi2 to do it anymore.
Nice to know about. I'm planning to use it in 2 L^3 (resin) printers (gd0105) and a wearable PDA (gd0136). I'm just hoping that, with a bit of linux experimentation, I can get a mono 4096x2560px out of the M8P HDMI port since it only officially supports 4096x2160px according to BTT.
Currently a CM4 in the same configuration as a CB1 is now the same price as a CB1 or a PI 5 with 14.7Gbit/s SSD at three times the price and ten times the performance with 2, 4K@60Hz displays and WiFi 5, Bluetooth 5, PI 4 is still double the cost.
This is probably way over my head, but why don't more 3D printer board manufacturers build-in support (hardware and software) for Ocotoprint and/or Klipper out-of-the-box? Seems like an easy win if I could take my old CR-10 and swap in a new board with silent drivers, and all the stuff needed to have Octoprint and/or Klipper "just working" easy-peasy.
Because that would basically be adding a computer on top of a 3d printer motherboard, and the cost of 3d printer boards would increase quite a bit. It would also require much more time and effort on the software side too, and if a part of the 3d printer board stopped working the replacement would be more expensive. Let the 3d printer guys stick to 3d printer boards and sbc guys stick to sbc's. I'm personally very curious what the fail rate of cb1's are.
Interesting video though like all so-called Raspberry Pi alternatives, the software support is just not there. If you are just using it for the linux desktop it might be an alternative. But if you try to install octoprint, it will be difficult though it is doable. Even if you get octoprint there is not guarantee the web cam streamer service will work without a lot of work and research. I ran into this problem with an Orange Pi 3 LTS board though I did finally get it to work. Unfortunately, the gpio access does not work so I am unable to use the runout sensor. The code for the gpio python libraries use pyhon 2.7 and are not compatible with python 3 which is what octoprint now uses. It is a shame though as there are really nice boards out there, hadware wise that is. I will take at look at these boards though as they look really interesting.
Lack of R.Pi's set me to look for alternatives. Orange Bannana Mango pi's but the Manta as a system that works with the CB1 seemed the least amount "something else to troubleshoot". So am waiting on delivery.
I’m really confused.. I’ll post later on the discourse, but can I not use any of my pi3b or Pi4b boards on this? I have 10 boards laying around and want to get these if I can use them. If not I’d rather get a different board and have them separate.
It wasn’t clear to me do you need the adapter if you have the Manta board? They sell the Manta with the CB1 but not the adapter so I am assuming the adapter isn’t needed for install if you have the board but then why have the adapter at all cuz no one will probably use it without the board.
Since board on my Qidi x-max blew I though of buying manta m5p with cb1 and running klipper on it. It is much cheaper alternative than buying original board for £120 plus shipping.
They look ok, and I'd give them a go. When the chip shortage began though, I set up FB marketplace notifications for raspberry pi and over the last year or so I scored a few 3b+ and 4 for less than RRP, all in good condition. I've got 2 klipper mainsail setups and one octoprint Prusa all on 3b+ and a few others, some bought at retail including a 02W somehow, for playing around with to learn robotics and other practical things.
I'll be staying with my pis for now until they can streamline their firmware a bit more. I have noticed a small amount of people moving over to them but I'm fortunate enough to be able to get my raspberry pi 4b 4gb from my local jaycar reasonably cheap and they are generally in stock. Maybe after my voron and ratrig are finished the next printer will use a manta board but that's a full custom setup at that point for me.
Pi has been battling scalpers on Amazon and other sites buying up inventory and jacking the price up. Maybe this will devalue the scalpers enough to deter them and get the Pi product flowing direct to consumers again. I much prefer the legit Pi, not a big fan of someone basically cloning it kernel differences aside. Having a BTT board that accepts the CM4 or BTT module directly is very interesting. That would be great for my custom dual extruder/dual Z belt Ender Pro I built last year.
Pi Foundation is making 400,000 boards per month but has chosen to prioritize and ship most of them to OEMs instead of vendors that sell to hobbyists. Scalpers are taking advantage of the short market. Be persistent and find one at a reasonable price. Avoid rewarding scalpers.
I tried setting up Octoprint on the Pad7. It combines a 7" touchscreen and a CB1 with Klipper installed. Klipper is just too much work for little gain. I really like the hardware package though and would like to use it on my Marlin printers. It's waaaay beyond my programming skills.
I'm looking to upgrade my good ol' CR-10s. I would like to use this motherboard but I saw that the video is dated September 24, 2022 so I was wondering what would be the latest motherboard update in 2023? What would be recommended?
It should have gone without saying that it can't be swapped over, no testing needed. The RPi is a broadcom MCU with proprietary hardware, devices, and a closed source bootloader built specifically for it's hardware/architecture. Essentially what you were trying to do there was like trying to put diesel in a petrol car, just because it fits in the tank doesn't mean it can use it.
Michael, Hi. I love your content always learn alot from you. I tried this and got octoprint running. I cant figure out how to autorun octoprint. i have to ssh to the pi and start the server. But when i close the ssh the octoprint server goes offline. Any ideas what im doing wrong? you didnt cover any of starting the server. Thanks in advance
I think during the shortage, I’d use this for swapping something like an ender 3 over to run Klipper but if I were to build something more powerful I think for the piece of mind I would go with a raspberry pi. I have an ender close I am contemplating swapping to klipper and I think the board controller combo will go in that printer once there is a simple flash install of the software, although the kernel version isn’t terrible. Just don’t have time for it now
Having a CM4 directly connected to the BTT board is pretty slick. I too prefer a legit Pi though, just feels like BTT is skirting Pi's patents by using a different chip. Damn scalpers killing the Pi market.
@@dev-debug I agree to a point. I have a cheap knockoff ender 3 (lotmaxx shark) and it's alright but I can't get it to print reliably. I'm gonna swap some parts and I'm thinking about doing the smaller of these two boards for a controller that way it'll just be one little unit to pop in and done
I've been running 2 printers on a cb1, CPU load is already high so I think that's the limit. I had to use the 5.x kernel or it wouldn't recognize any atmega board serial.
So I currently have a Ender 3 pro with upgrade micro Swiss hot end and the older v1.4 (Green Board) I was about to upgrade to the newer silent creality drop in board but I kind of want to start using clipper on this one as well because I pre-ordered the fl sun v400 but still want to use the enter 3 for other things. Would it be worth it to get the CB1 and Manta M4P for the ender 3? I would still like to have it be able to stand alone print aka SD card and have LCD Screen Functionality but it looks like There are a bunch of steps involved with just getting the basic functionality back up and running. Do you have a Finished image I could flash to the SD card for a ender 3 pro running these boards working in this aspect so I could just tune it instead of scratch build it?
I bought a skr mini e3 v3 card and the CB1 to mount on a voron switchwire, will I have good results, I saw that this skr mini doesn't have much content on the Internet, only after I acquired it would it be a good card? or bad business chalk? In Brazil, access to parts for building 3D printers is horrible lol 🤣
I watched this several times - I am not getting anywhere - I got two CB-1's, a M8P, and Manta E3Ez - I also got a PI4B adapter. I am not able to get any to boot (show up on WIFI that is) - any suggestions? I know my WIFI settings are correct. Also, it says if you use Ethernet on the PI4B that should work. No CB-1's are showing up on my network....
CB1 not having a DSI and CSI (not stated well enough on the on the product page IHMO) makes it an ok headless setup but pointless with the BTT Raspberry Pad 5. I've had mine for a month or so and they have made some progress on the images, didn't test the first release, 2nd worked ok but had a habit or panicking randomly, current release seems mostly usable and will connect to most wifi networks. But I'm going to wait a bit longer before using it to run a printer
Interesting reading the comments. Some people have had luck with this and others not so much. As pointed out by some commenters and my patrons, the CB1 is not compatible with some of the displays that the Pi is. This includes BTT's own Raspberry Pad pi display. Please double check compatibility for your hardware before going down this route.
you need to see this. input shaping on marlin via stepper drivers with microcontrollers for cartesian printers. no need for a raspi.
this changes the game. he does a speed benchy in 12:45.
ua-cam.com/video/8o5v12im6UY/v-deo.html
i am having issues getting a webcam to work on the cb1
Michael, do you know if the M8P + CB1 will work with BTT's Pi TTFT50?
Thank you for another great video.Unfortunately the limited time I have is taken up by experimenting with trying to get PETG or ABS anywhere near the quality of PLA on my End3V2, so I would optimistically think the Pi won't be nearly as much trial and error and pay extra for the latest version, if I could get one and even then there is still a limit and I don't like to reward gougers whether they sell toilet paper during pandemics or Pis during chip crises. The other option is to wait a bit. I'm counting on the brains trust that is youtubers like your channel and your very switched on audience to provide solutions, and hopefully this alternative or another option bears fruit,. Other than raspberries that is
Is this able to be used as a main board?
finally! I got a CB1 and Adapter laying around here but cant find a decent tutorial...
Thank you for everything Michael!
Not quite a drop-in solution but fitting in the same location is itself quite valuable.
Pretty much any pi substitute is going to take some linux admin work, but this looks far better than most pi substitutes for 3D printing. I've been using old thin clients to drive my klipper and octoprint instances. Kiauh should be handy for automating the admin work on most solutions.
Great review. Nice to see the setup is quick and painless. I’m building a voron 2.4 myself with the manta and hermit crab can.
Just bought the Manta M8P. Sorry, what's the hermit crab can?
@@zsiga09 looks like a rapid hot end changer
Micheal, you did it. You convinced a non coder to believe that I could achieve this task. Unfortunately, I have failed . I have octoprint up and running as soon a I close out of putty the server stops. 😢 Now I have an over priced laptop running putty to run octoprint on the CB1.😊 Web cams are not working as well I don’t even know where to begain. 😊I tried to install Debian and I received an error that the H616 current failed. Some thing about u boot. All things aside. Keep it up I enjoy your content. 😊
I just recently purchased manta m4p and a manta e3ez and 2 CB1s for my DIY Ender 3. As I’ve been running professional, firmware on a 4.2.7 board, but now wanting to try Klipper for the first time using these boards. Thanks to all your videos over the last three years. Have a very successful experience with my Ender 3. So Thanks again
Thanks for the guide Michael. Got my CB1 running octoprint in around 4hours last night following this. Most tricky part was figuring out that where some of the file paths in the manual install guide need to change from home/pi to home/biqu, as well as changing the user to biqu. Once I twigged that and updated the links, all working well, even webcam running nicely.
Now to make an image of the install so don't have to do it again! :p and then onto the Marlin config for the Manta M5P... (Klipper will come later)
An interesting solution, if you want to both change the board and convert to klipper or build a new printer with klipper (like a voron).
But if you just want to upgrade an existing printer with an already good enough board, there are much cheaper options, like just using an old ThinClient (theese smal computers mostly used in banks and insurances, as they are mostly used as "terminals", not storing customer data localy). They are practicly smal PCs made of parts normaly used in notebooks. As they are replaced every 3-5 years, a lot of used ones come to the secondary market. I got some 6 year old ones about 2 years ago for about 8 bucks each - Fujitsu Futro S900 with Siemens D3003 board with 2GB-RAM. Just for fun, after adding an SSD and 2GB extra RAM I tried Windows 10 - it worked. So quite powerfull. But of course, for debian without GUI you can simply use an USB-Stick as boot-device or a smal msata and no extra RAM.
They use a little bit more space - but of course, you can change to a Pi later, when they are available again. Also it depend on the printer - in an Anicubic Chiron or Predator, there should be no problem to add the D3003 board directly (but there a new board makes sense, as both printers have Alegro drivers)
As you have no "ready2use" image anyway, I see no big difference in using old ThinClients (which will be electronic waste anyways if you do not find an other use for them) or a "substitude pi" beside saving money an being more eco-friendly reusing old hardware. The main reason for the Pi is ease of use pre-configured images.
100% agree. The pre-configured Pi images are a huge bonus but without a Pi the thin-clients are fantastic. I've been picking up Dell 7040 micros for this purpose recently. My CNC software will be installed on one this weekend, hopefully my Home Assistant , OPNSense, Klipper and NAS installations will eventually go this way as well.
For anyone reading: ThinClient = Mini PC
@@hd-be7di Actually not. "PC" stands for "Personal Computer". A client is just a client for a server. So the OS typical Windows CE (very old Thin Clients) or Linux with Cytrix. Theese clients are used by insurrances and banks, there critical data never should be stored or even only cached on the client. Practicly they just something like a remote desktop.
However, as there is the same hardware used as on notebooks, you could use them as a PC. Depending on the RAM and storage you need, as they typicly come with quite low RAM and storage - as they only should start the client software. But while a Compact Flash with 0.5 or 1GB on a 12 year old ThinClient is a bit low for using it as a PC, 1 or 2 GB of RAM is enough, esp if you do not need a gui. However, many thin clients have a sata connector, so upgrading storage isn't a big deal.
Of course, newer ThinClients often have more storage and RAM, simply because they are cheaper to get for the manufacurer. Still, they do not come with a "normal" OS.
So hardwarewise there are many simularitys between a mini PC and a thin client, and if you upgrade them you could use them as a PC.
However, as banks and insurrances mostly lease their hardware instead buying it, huge numbers of ThinClients come to the secondary market at once if a contracts end. As they do not come with an OS, have very smal storage and enter the secondary market in hugh numbers at once, they sometimes sell ingcredibly cheap. A few years ago I got Futro S900 for about 8€ each with 1GB RAM and 2GB mSATA. With a computing power better than a Pi 4, but definitly not a "Mini PC". But very usefull for tastk like home automation, PBX or klipper. You might upgrade the RAM if you want to run multiple instances of klipper.
This is perfect. I recent burned out the serial controller on my pi4b (whoops) and just this morning was preparing myself to pay the highway robbery price for a replace pi via Amazon just to get up and running again. I'll gladly take the fiddly route over giving in to scalpers
I give another vote for the Orange Pi. I've used them extensively and I think good value for money. They're not as powerful as the BTT or Raspberry but are fine for running octopi and klipper. They are more or less a drop in replacement for the Raspberry Pi in those applications. I do think that you'd have to be very careful trying to run a camera at the same time though, although I haven't tried this. The orange pi also comes with a rather nice wifi antenna, too, giving good range. The banana pi I bought was bit of a dead loss because no wifi with it. There is an add-on module for this, but I think it works out poor value once you factor that in.
I’m using the Orange pi a lot. Using it with Debian, I have them running octoprint, fluidd and mainsail. The only thing is that you need to do a bit more manual install of bits and pieces of software, but it works flawlessly. I use both the orange pi 3 lts, and orange pi 4 lts. It’s priced at almost 60% of the price of the Raspberry.
I came by this video since I was looking at buying the BTT M4P for my ageing Geeetech A10 printer. I'm not an electronics expert, but I think after watching this video I'd certainly give it a try. Thanks!
Another cheap alternative are thin clients.
You can buy used units really cheaply, just need to make sure they are complete with disk, memory and power supply, because buying it all separatelly can double the price of the whole thing (still really cheap tho).
Some short instructional video on setting up klipper etc. on a thin client could be helpfull, as there arent many such videos.
I was sent a Manta m8 and cb1 for testing from a klipper - linux beginner and they have improved the distro a great deal since the first version. I did make a mistake of buying a PI TFT5 v2.0 thinking I could use it, but the CB1 doesn't support the display or camera on the FFC ports so HDMI only. I am going to be using it with my Chiron so I can use the dual Z with the end stops in klipper as soon as I have time.
I have a pi 4b, can I just use it with the Manta 8P and their 7" touchscreen? I am currently running klipper out of pi4b, but I would like to add the M8P board and drivers, and the touchscreen, but I am confused as to what touchscreens would work with my set up
I mean, can I just use a PC running linux? I got a small form factor media server, can I just use that to instead of a pi and plug in BTT 7" touchscreen to that through HDMI?
You had better luck than I have had with it. I purchased the CB1+PI4b and haven't been able to get the CB1 working. In the first one the wifi was unstable and would just go up and down. BTT sent me another and it won't stay powered up. It cycles constantly. I have given up on the CB1 and will try to find a CM4 to use.
Just got one with the M5P and love it. Compact and easy to set up.
I don't comment much (at all, on any videos) but I've watched nearly all of the videos you've made and am a big fan/follower...
I know you built the ratrig as a community build which turned out pretty awesome!
I'm curious if you would build a voron v2.4 type printer as there seem to be quite a few differences in building these as compared to most others as they're not a mainstream mass produced platform? They seem awesome. I just figured I'd ask because I'd never seen much mentioned of the vorons but would love to follow along on this type of build with as in depth as your videos are being this is my plan for a fairly close future build as I'm currently collecting materials to build a 2.4 r2.
I'd like to build one. I'm turned off by the sourcing of the long pars list. I know there are more and kits available so perhaps it is getting closer.
I got mine a few weeks ago and was able to set up the image and have it running the printer in about a day. Getting webcam support on mainsail was less simple...
I was considering using a CB1 on a future build however I hadnt checked how it fares compared to the pi. After watching your video I think it worth a shot as I intend to use Mainsail which is much lighter than Octoprint, so it should function just as well and save more than 100 bucks!
Michael, good video. I've got a Libre "Le Potato" and an Orange PI that I grabbed for testing app compatibility, so I could free up an RP 4 for other things than 3d printer duty. I haven't gotten that done yet, but I now have a couple more options. Thanks!
Libre Computer makes some very good Raspberry Pi alternatives. I run Klipper on a Le Potato as well, and at $35 it's a really good deal. It installed really easy on both their Armbian and Raspbian builds using KIAUH. I did find it easier to get SPI working in their Raspbian build, which I needed for an accelerometer. The newer armbian builds may have fixed that (I haven't went back and tried).
Pretty interesting indeed! 😃
Thanks, Michael!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I've got a Manta M8P in my FLSun SR, and besides being a bit of a bear to mechanically install (it's too wide to fit in between the side of the case and the standoffs that you bolt the stock fan into) it's been great so far. one of my initial concerns was that the 64mhz MCU on the board wouldn't be fast enough to handle high speeds and accelerations in klipper, but at a max print speed of 200mm/s and accelerations of 3000mm/s^2, MCU load gets a bit over 10% when it's going full steam (albeit only with 4 steppers still).
why only 3000mm/s - cannot sr support way more accel?
Great video, I picked up a Formbot T-Rex 2+ on the used market and I am really considering running the BTT Manta M8P w/ CB1 and I also just watched your video on CAN bus so I'm thinking I'll be implementing both of those in this printer! Thanks for your excellent videos, I've found myself referencing a lot of them. Cheers
I really like the CB1, because we don't actually need RPIs for our printers, RPI for a printer are so overpowered it's crazy. CB1 is being barely used when running fast prints. So I think CB1 saves us cash and doesn't push the price of RPIs up for people who ACTUALLY need to use them and can ONLY use them, because a CB1 would be too slow for them.
Love this alternative. Using the M8P in my Zaribo ZLC currently. No issues and super compact.
Love the review. I'm willing to try Klipper and maybe that's the push I needed :D
I'll be definitely considering the manta board given that I had a lot of connection problems with my Pi and stock ender 3 board via usb... No cables means less things prone to errors plus I'd love to try klipper and I can't imagine working with it when I get connection error at least 3 times while printing 12h print...
The options on the purchase page are confusing at best.
Yeah, that is a general problem with aliexpress sellers. You have to spend some time to decode them.
@@Z3DZ3R0 or fill their inbox to death with questions...
Just a note about putty, It's unnecessary nowadays as ssh in PowerShell is now built in and vscode offers a generally better experience, being able to drag and drop file onto your device and navigate files through the ui.
Seperately, I notice the Bambulab gone from the background and was wondering if there was some issue with it?
The X1 is on loan for an expo down under. No issues to report.
powershell still has issues with cups and terminal based apps it's totally not unnecessary to use Putty in 2022.
@@orangehatmusic225 KiTTys a good one too.
@@orangehatmusic225 fsck microsofat
Very helpful video, I have this setup on a Ender3 V2 working very well. There are a few changes to watch out for following the manual setup for Octoprint but overall very easy to get up and running. Liked and subscribed.
Heads up, if you're on modern windows you don't actually have to download putty to ssh into your pi. Powershell has it baked in now.
Or you could just use a free operating system.
And no it's not powershell having it baked in. It's windows having a full version of Linux in the power shell. Cringe.
@@M1America And the biggest ass hole award goes to.............
@@M1America WSL isn’t installed by default. SSH is indeed installed by default in cmd and power shell on windows 10/11. While I agree using Linux (or anything, really) is better than windows, not everyone has the option or the desire. If they aren’t going to install Linux, they should use the internal app rather than a third party one. It’s more secure.
@@bajojohn There is nothing secure about Windows. Using free and open source software on top of it doesn't change a single thing.
@@M1America let’s see your evidence that Microsoft’s SSH implementation is insecure. I’ll wait.
My two cents on the CB1 (I had bought a M8P and a CB1 quite some time ago for a Voron build I never started and now I used it to rebuild my Anycubic Mega X electronics - I know, it´s too much for a simple no-idex bedslinger, but I had at hands and I don´t plan on building the Voron anymore it so I used it).
Setup was very easy, no hassles there. Webcam (Logitech C270) works just fine. Installed a few add ons to Klipper (KAMP, timelapse, Obico) and works just fine.
Still haven´t tested with the BTT PiTFT50 screen because I´m waiting for a longer cable to arrive (probably tomorrow).
The only issue I had with the CB1 was absurd overheating. It might be due to ambient temperatures in my city currently nearing 40C, but still, it´s running at 65C and higher (heating up, even though slowly) when on idle. Added a heatsink to it and the only benefit was the overheating slowing down. So, I´ve added a 35mm fan which actually solved the problem, reducing the host temp to acceptable 45C. However, I still haven´t figured out how to keep a fan always on in Klipper (it´s a dumb fan, no PWM, so I can´t use the temperature_fan function from what I understand) , so it´s running along with the stepper fans (stepstick_fan) in a multi_pin setup, which cools down the host properly during prints, but still leads to temperature increase when idle and the stepper fans are not on. I don´t think it´s normal, considering that it´s idle with low CPU usage and heating up like this. At least it doesn´t freezes up anymore when printing.
The Z-Tilt adjustment (when using dual steppers) is a must for dual Z motors! :)
Waited for this vid soo long!!!
If you run short of topics, may I suggest it would be interesting to see you try one or more of the DIY auto-tool-changers projects.
Brother, this is a very good video. For inexperienced users this may be too much. Especially if you don't understand the processes.
Hi michael, your channel is a massive help! thanks for everything
what Raspberry Pi solution would you recommend?
Orange pi, BTT CB1, or MKS pi 1.1?
thank you
If I wanted to use an old desktop computer and install Unbutu on it to run multiple instances of Klipper on it for lets say 4 printers, what specs should I look for? I have not seen much information on this. I have 2 printers now, but if I buy an old machine off eBay or something I want to make sure it has the power to expand further. Could an old Dell Optiplex take the place of 4 Raspberry Pi's? Then I can route all to a single central KlipperScreen.
Willing to give it a try.... just ordered one myself. Thanks for the video
You might try an Orange Pi model. I've been looking at them for a bit. I think its similar specs to this CB1.
I posted on fb ender 3 page about running the new M4P with the CB1. Definitely an option I’m toying with and may even just get the M8P instead as I’m also toying with converting my Ender 3 Pro to a corxy or similar machine.
Sorry for such a basic question, but can Klypper and Octoprint run on x86 linux? I love this idea as a Pi replacement (I’m looking into oem boards to play w gpio), but if those two apps can run on x86, I’d prolly go with a tinyPC. However, I really appreciate the ‘compatibility’ work you’ve done for this Bigtreetech printer application as it helps demystify what works with what in the SBC world.
Edit. You sold me on the BTT CB1 with the Pi4B as a Pi replacement, I’ve three pairs of boards on order; I wish the ComputeBoard came in additional memory configs but 1GB really is sufficient for starters, especially when you rightly compared the BTT option to a Pi3B.
2nd edit. I nixed the tinyPC consideration and am going straight to the Manta 8P board and the CB1. Why reinvent a wheel when you’ve laid out everything so well!! Messing around w firmware, config files and hardware changes is one of the reasons I got into this hobby. Man, really well done presentation.
Hi Michael,
I own a CB1(used on Manta E3EZ, with TFT35SPI in a Voron T0), a MKS-PI with PI-TS35 (with a BTT SKR1.4 in a Voron Switchwire), a Orange PI Zero2 (with a Fysetc Cheetah2 in a Voron V0.1), a Orange PI PC (with SKR2 in a modded Eryone ER20) and a RPI4B (with a Octopus Pro with BTT PITFT50 in a Voron V2.4). Further I have a Orange Pi 3 LTS (with a BTT HDMI TFT50) not in a printer yet, but tested in the V2.4.
The CB1 and MKS-PI only have "preconfigured" OSes where a user is already created. BTT has not disclosed the root password, which leads to a hassle to change it. BTT uses debian, MKS armbian. At least it is no problem to get the BTT CB1 OS up to date. MKS is a complete different animal: The armbian is outdated (May22), their touchscreen (bundle) doesn't work properly, they(MKS) locked part of updates "to protect the user". Luckily a guy (redrathnure on github, doesn't even owns a MKS-PI) made a armbian AND that fixes so many problems.
For the Orange PIs I use armbian bullseye minimal. Here and with redrathnure MKS-PI armbian (Ubuntu based) you are asked with the 1st boot to change the "root" password AND to create a user. I usually upgade (apt update && apt upgrade), configure the WLAN with "nmtui" and reboot. Then as user (eg. pi) I install KIAUH and then Klipper etc. The only drawback with the Orange PI Zero2 is that I had to use an older armbian bullseye (22.02.2) as newer had problems. All TFTs work fine with Klipperscreen.
Both Allwinner H616 PIs, the CB-1 and Orange PI Zero2 run at the higher end temperature wise. Both NEED heatsinks AND a fan! Even with that the run at ~60° in a 18°C room. The MKS-PI (RK32xx) is just tailing them with ~55°C. The Orange PI 3 LTS and RPI4B run around ~35°C. All tested ~30 minutes into a print.
My verdict is: if you cannot get a Raspberry PI, get a Orange PI 3 LTS. The 3 LTS has an Allwinner H6, 2GB RAM AND 8GB eMMC for ~€50. You can use the BTT HDMI50 with it and armbian works with it, no jumping through loops. The CB1 I would only use in a Manta board, but only untill the RPI CM4 are available again.
I am wondering how the support will be. The pi foundation and community has been great for every aspect of the software. I looked into Rockpi, and others but the support seems limited, and abandoned after a short time.
I also use the manual octopi install because I can run pinhole along side of it that way. Fresh lite install, then pinhole, then octopi.
Great guide. I’ve been waiting for a guide like this to move to Klipper. So for a basic single extruder printer, the version with 4 drivers should work? And a printer that supports 2 extruders go with the larger 8 driver board?
I already ordered the CB1 & Pi adaptor board. I've been debating the M4P vs the M8P and the PiTFT 5.0 they offer. It seems like a very clean way to run Klipper and Klipper Screen. I will NOT buy a Pi at it's current gouging prices and some of the alternatives are "creeping" in price as the Pi stays out of the picture or are being snatched up at an alarming rate, if you find what you want in stock, you had better buy it.
Very nice vídeo, thanks! Do you know if this board CB1 can run repetier server too?
Another great video, thank you. I am building an enclosure for my Ender 3 S1 Pro. I want to control lights, heater, and any other device either made or purchased. From what I gathered, this combination should be able to do this. Is that correct? And using OctoPrint to control those devices as well? Thanks again, any pointers greatly appreciated.
That's pretty neat.
Have you done a review of using a spare smartphone to use Octoprint with Octo4a?
Just grabbed the CB1 and PI4 adapter plus the heat sink. I am building a Voron 0.1 with an SKR Pico board. This should work out. I do have a Pi Zero 2W, but don’t want to use it if I don’t have to.
I'm interested in one of these for my newly nearly bought-nit yet built Sapphire Plus and this review is great in helping me to wether keep the Banana pi M2 Zero with the MKS robin nano it includes, getting just an octopus and reuse the BPi or go Manta; I just have a question though: I saw you added a wifi antenna to the CB1, does that mean wifi is poor by itself?
Not to mention, whatever Pi you can find out there, they are almost scalping prices as well. So much for affordable. Glad I got my two before this “chip crisis”.
TT are these boards to REPLACE our printer boards, the manta's that is or to run along side it just to house octo etc?
I ended up ordering the manta4/CB1/TMC2209x4 combo kit after watching your videos I hope I am up to the task. I own a CR10-S5 with a Bondtech DDX/Mosquito kit. Was lingering on just getting a sonic pad for ease of install for klipper but I didn't want the 8-bit board to hold me back. I need remote access and can't seem to find a raspberry pi.
How do you feel about the ultra fine particles created by 3d printing? I've seen mixed information about the possible long term effects of exposure to even "non-toxic" filaments like petg/pla. Do you still enclose your printers regardless of filament choice?
I have an airfilter (with replacable HEPA and activated charcoal panels) I got of eBay sitting behind my resin orinter station, with my FDM printer sitting next that desk.
I have only used eco-resin so my friends like to point to it as overkill.
If RatOS ever becomes available for the M8P I will consider using it. I have been thinking of upgrading my V-Core 3 500 from a Duet board to use Klipper but the the RPi became so rare that I cannot get one to use the available RatOS builds. I am not willing to put in the time and effort to figure out all the settings myself with almost zero experience and therefore uncertain results. So if the time comes that I can just download a working system for the M8P-CB1 combo and only adjust what things I want to behave differently then I will definitely buy one.
Do you have to use the pi adapter board to get klipper on the cb1, or can you use the m4 mainboard alone to get both klipper firmwares installed?
Great review, Thank you!!
But I did not have the same luck as you did.
I ordered the Manta M8P and 2 PI4B adapters, all with the CB1, and for the life of me can't get the WI-FI to stay connected (if and when they connect). Been in contact with BTT, as this has been going since day one (over a week), and looks like they will be sending me replacement CB1s.
BTT Github has several people with the same issue as me.
It is very frustrating
Some CB1 units had WiFi issues but BTT are swapping them out. No questions asked.
Nicely done Michael. Cheers, JAYTEE
Hi grate videos very helpful and inspiring, I am wanting to build a actively heated printer similar to your ender 5 but I will be using the ender 5 plus as the base and would like to use the dual z with G34, is it working going to the M8P board or use the CB1+P14B with a board with 5 stepper drivers. Also would love to see more of your ender 5 build.
Hi!
Sorry if its too basic to ask. I am new to this!
I want to ask if I want to use external Motor driver for my stepper motor, can I use it?
Because my torque requirements are higher then conventional NEMA 17, So my selected motor has an Amps of 3.5. The 5160T Pro is expansive for me to buy.. so was wondering is there a scope to add external driver like TB6600 to Manta M4P which can support 5A.
thank you
A53 is older processor, the CB1 is more equivalent to the Raspberry Pi 3B and you should compare it to the older Raspberry Pi 3B, not the Raspberry Pi 4.
Personally, I like that BigTreeTech released this, but it would have been nice to have better compatibility with the Raspberry Pi, but from what I have heard, the CB1 is very reliable
Hi Michael, is it possible to power on the CB1/CM4 individually without powering on the rest of the board? I like to keep my octoprint running and have it automaticly turn on the printer(through smart plug) when i upload file from prusaslicer. I would like to try klipper and would like to retain this functionality.
for anyone having a weird issue where you cant type in the password into putty or mobaxterm as the line seems to freeze without showing anything, the consistent way i found to get it is type the password biqu and then spam enter, this allowed me to get into it. it doesnt resolve the issue but at least you dont have to do it often
How about canbus with m4p. I was looking at the hermit crab quick change adapter. Does the hermin crab can use a stepper driver from the board? Can you use dual direct drive with the hermit crab can? How hard is re configuring klipper when you change print heads or swap a laser? I'm not finding a lot of info out there yet.
I ordered one because pis are so hard to come by. Yes I want to see more. I love pis. And this one maybe the one that gets my ender 5 plus up and running as I don't trust my old pi2 to do it anymore.
Nice to know about. I'm planning to use it in 2 L^3 (resin) printers (gd0105) and a wearable PDA (gd0136). I'm just hoping that, with a bit of linux experimentation, I can get a mono 4096x2560px out of the M8P HDMI port since it only officially supports 4096x2160px according to BTT.
could you please elaborate? is there some nice open source resin printer I should know about ?
I finally got mine. And no luck at all getting it to actually install octoprint
Currently a CM4 in the same configuration as a CB1 is now the same price as a CB1 or a PI 5 with 14.7Gbit/s SSD at three times the price and ten times the performance with 2, 4K@60Hz displays and WiFi 5, Bluetooth 5, PI 4 is still double the cost.
This is probably way over my head, but why don't more 3D printer board manufacturers build-in support (hardware and software) for Ocotoprint and/or Klipper out-of-the-box?
Seems like an easy win if I could take my old CR-10 and swap in a new board with silent drivers, and all the stuff needed to have Octoprint and/or Klipper "just working" easy-peasy.
Because that would basically be adding a computer on top of a 3d printer motherboard, and the cost of 3d printer boards would increase quite a bit. It would also require much more time and effort on the software side too, and if a part of the 3d printer board stopped working the replacement would be more expensive. Let the 3d printer guys stick to 3d printer boards and sbc guys stick to sbc's. I'm personally very curious what the fail rate of cb1's are.
Why doesn't BTT have precooked "OctoNotPi" images? Is it a licensing thing? It's not as if it would be hard to make .
Interesting video though like all so-called Raspberry Pi alternatives, the software support is just not there. If you are just using it for the linux desktop it might be an alternative. But if you try to install octoprint, it will be difficult though it is doable. Even if you get octoprint there is not guarantee the web cam streamer service will work without a lot of work and research. I ran into this problem with an Orange Pi 3 LTS board though I did finally get it to work. Unfortunately, the gpio access does not work so I am unable to use the runout sensor. The code for the gpio python libraries use pyhon 2.7 and are not compatible with python 3 which is what octoprint now uses. It is a shame though as there are really nice boards out there, hadware wise that is.
I will take at look at these boards though as they look really interesting.
Lack of R.Pi's set me to look for alternatives. Orange Bannana Mango pi's but the Manta as a system that works with the CB1 seemed the least amount "something else to troubleshoot". So am waiting on delivery.
Please! Make a step by step guide on how to install octoprint on the pi4b cb1. Your instructions were vague and I'm struggling with them.
I’m really confused.. I’ll post later on the discourse, but can I not use any of my pi3b or Pi4b boards on this?
I have 10 boards laying around and want to get these if I can use them. If not I’d rather get a different board and have them separate.
Curious if you have any plans to look at the Creality Sonic Pad? Really curious about it.
Ihave a Pi 4B for OctoPrint on my 10s Pro, V2, can i get Klipper to run on it and have you done it yet? Dennis
It wasn’t clear to me do you need the adapter if you have the Manta board? They sell the Manta with the CB1 but not the adapter so I am assuming the adapter isn’t needed for install if you have the board but then why have the adapter at all cuz no one will probably use it without the board.
Since board on my Qidi x-max blew I though of buying manta m5p with cb1 and running klipper on it. It is much cheaper alternative than buying original board for £120 plus shipping.
CB1 and adapter goes to the buyer for $100.
With luck you can get a Raspberry 3B, 4B or a Zero 2W for the same money.
I have been using octo4a on a couple old Samsung phones i got off facebook market works very well as sub.
Really want to try one of these but no project yet to use it on, hopefully soon.
They look ok, and I'd give them a go. When the chip shortage began though, I set up FB marketplace notifications for raspberry pi and over the last year or so I scored a few 3b+ and 4 for less than RRP, all in good condition. I've got 2 klipper mainsail setups and one octoprint Prusa all on 3b+ and a few others, some bought at retail including a 02W somehow, for playing around with to learn robotics and other practical things.
Great video as always mate👍🇦🇺😊
I'll be staying with my pis for now until they can streamline their firmware a bit more. I have noticed a small amount of people moving over to them but I'm fortunate enough to be able to get my raspberry pi 4b 4gb from my local jaycar reasonably cheap and they are generally in stock. Maybe after my voron and ratrig are finished the next printer will use a manta board but that's a full custom setup at that point for me.
Pi has been battling scalpers on Amazon and other sites buying up inventory and jacking the price up. Maybe this will devalue the scalpers enough to deter them and get the Pi product flowing direct to consumers again. I much prefer the legit Pi, not a big fan of someone basically cloning it kernel differences aside. Having a BTT board that accepts the CM4 or BTT module directly is very interesting. That would be great for my custom dual extruder/dual Z belt Ender Pro I built last year.
Pi Foundation is making 400,000 boards per month but has chosen to prioritize and ship most of them to OEMs instead of vendors that sell to hobbyists. Scalpers are taking advantage of the short market. Be persistent and find one at a reasonable price. Avoid rewarding scalpers.
I tried setting up Octoprint on the Pad7. It combines a 7" touchscreen and a CB1 with Klipper installed. Klipper is just too much work for little gain. I really like the hardware package though and would like to use it on my Marlin printers. It's waaaay beyond my programming skills.
Octoprint runs in a python virtual environment right? The banana pi, orange pi, radxa zero etc should also work as well but I haven't checked.
I'm looking to upgrade my good ol' CR-10s.
I would like to use this motherboard but I saw that the video is dated September 24, 2022 so I was wondering what would be the latest motherboard update in 2023? What would be recommended?
I’ve had this issue with my side hustle as I can’t get pi’s anymore. I’m trying out banana pi now for the similarities in gpio pins
I have Manta M4P board and RPi 3B+ lying around. Anyway I can use the RPi 3B+ with the M4P?
It should have gone without saying that it can't be swapped over, no testing needed. The RPi is a broadcom MCU with proprietary hardware, devices, and a closed source bootloader built specifically for it's hardware/architecture. Essentially what you were trying to do there was like trying to put diesel in a petrol car, just because it fits in the tank doesn't mean it can use it.
You’re absolutely right, but Im sure Michael already knew it also. He breaks it down really simple for new folks to the community just to show them.
Michael, Hi. I love your content always learn alot from you. I tried this and got octoprint running. I cant figure out how to autorun octoprint. i have to ssh to the pi and start the server. But when i close the ssh the octoprint server goes offline. Any ideas what im doing wrong? you didnt cover any of starting the server. Thanks in advance
HI there, Can you please Suggest which 3d printer controller board is best these days to buy and for future upgrades or updates. 32 Bit.
I think during the shortage, I’d use this for swapping something like an ender 3 over to run Klipper but if I were to build something more powerful I think for the piece of mind I would go with a raspberry pi. I have an ender close I am contemplating swapping to klipper and I think the board controller combo will go in that printer once there is a simple flash install of the software, although the kernel version isn’t terrible. Just don’t have time for it now
Having a CM4 directly connected to the BTT board is pretty slick. I too prefer a legit Pi though, just feels like BTT is skirting Pi's patents by using a different chip. Damn scalpers killing the Pi market.
@@dev-debug I agree to a point. I have a cheap knockoff ender 3 (lotmaxx shark) and it's alright but I can't get it to print reliably. I'm gonna swap some parts and I'm thinking about doing the smaller of these two boards for a controller that way it'll just be one little unit to pop in and done
When this mainboard is switched off does it do hard or soft power down for the Pi/CB1?
I've been running 2 printers on a cb1, CPU load is already high so I think that's the limit. I had to use the 5.x kernel or it wouldn't recognize any atmega board serial.
So I currently have a Ender 3 pro with upgrade micro Swiss hot end and the older v1.4 (Green Board) I was about to upgrade to the newer silent creality drop in board but I kind of want to start using clipper on this one as well because I pre-ordered the fl sun v400 but still want to use the enter 3 for other things. Would it be worth it to get the CB1 and Manta M4P for the ender 3? I would still like to have it be able to stand alone print aka SD card and have LCD Screen Functionality but it looks like There are a bunch of steps involved with just getting the basic functionality back up and running. Do you have a Finished image I could flash to the SD card for a ender 3 pro running these boards working in this aspect so I could just tune it instead of scratch build it?
I bought a skr mini e3 v3 card and the CB1 to mount on a voron switchwire, will I have good results, I saw that this skr mini doesn't have much content on the Internet, only after I acquired it would it be a good card? or bad business chalk? In Brazil, access to parts for building 3D printers is horrible lol 🤣
I watched this several times - I am not getting anywhere - I got two CB-1's, a M8P, and Manta E3Ez - I also got a PI4B adapter. I am not able to get any to boot (show up on WIFI that is) - any suggestions? I know my WIFI settings are correct. Also, it says if you use Ethernet on the PI4B that should work. No CB-1's are showing up on my network....
CB1 not having a DSI and CSI (not stated well enough on the on the product page IHMO) makes it an ok headless setup but pointless with the BTT Raspberry Pad 5.
I've had mine for a month or so and they have made some progress on the images, didn't test the first release, 2nd worked ok but had a habit or panicking randomly, current release seems mostly usable and will connect to most wifi networks.
But I'm going to wait a bit longer before using it to run a printer
Well shit, that's why I can't get it to work on the raspberry pad5? That is mildly annoying
The CB1 has only 10/100mBit ethernet and no usb3, compared to the original cm4. The adapter works with a cm4 and gigabit lan, but also no usb3.