It’s a 2.8 v6 car….tried to find a roller because it will be either 5.3 or 6.0 LS swapped. So this will be trashed when I get to that part of the project
I have that on my passenger side and will be replacing with another brand because it's easiest enough to say to push the door harder from the outside, it's a WHOLE different thing when you are INSIDE the car and your passenger gets inside and the door does not get PULLED hard enough, Then it's REAL difficult to pull the door harder from inside the car. I have to get out and open the passenger side door and slam it. They are just WAY too thick!!!! The WORST thing people who don't understand they need to open the door fulling and shut the door hander may at times TRY is to PUSH the doorpanel closed which has not fully closed thinking they can get push it closed which highly risk BENDING the outside door panel!!!!
Lol trust me bro I get it. I did mine in stages did the door seals first then it sit in the sun then forced the door closed witch felt like I was gonna bend the door lol. But after a couple hot days they started to take shape.
I will be doing a video for my own channel but here is what I've discovered. The BEST aftermarket door seal I've been able to find is the STEELRUBBER.. I have used the FAIRCHILD KG3033 and the STEERLRUBBER 82-0055-72 and the BIGGEST difference is HUGE!! But might surprise you.. [FAIRCHILD] - Reinforced metal or plastic in the screw holes and where the plastic rivets (WHITE) are that hold the weather stripping around the door itself - Fairly Cheap (around $70) - THICK, strong, Rubber around around the top corners where the upper front and upper rear of door attaches. However the rubber is almost like PLASTIC! VERY DENSE and the skin around it is VERY strong almost where you can hardly compress it with your fingers.. - However, rubber weatherstripping that around the door is HOLLOW. [STEELRUBBER] - NO reinforced WHATSOEVER in any of the holes. Just a rubber and you have to poke out the holes yourself. If you don't use a weatherstripping adhesive,, the rivots (BLUE) WILL pull right out of the rubber without any pressure. - 2X more expensive than FairChild. - However, Rubber weatherstripping is FILLED with what perhaps might be a foam so it has reinforcement unlike the hollow weather stripping around the door. - BIGGEST DECIDING FEATURE: The rubber is SOFT at the top corners. THIS IS THE ISSUE AS TO WHY SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE ISSUES CLOSING THEIR DOORS... The rubber is TOO THICK and TOO DENSE... The rubber on the SteelRubber product is almost a soft GUMMY feel. While the rest are really not all that in best of quality (no reinforcement), I've installed both. SteelRubber is in my driver door for 2 years, and the Fairchild in my passenger. The passenger door HAS to be slammed to close and if anyone gets into the passenger door and realizes they didn't pull the door hard enough, they CANNOT pull the door from inside, have to most of the time get out and close it for them and get back into my car.. The driver side with the SteelRubber is SOLID! No ripper (Course I put a thin layer of weatherstripping adhesive along the bottoms as well to reduce the chances of the plastic rivets will rip out. I have absolutely no issues closing my driver door with them installed. In fact I can gently close them, no needing to SLAM the door whatsoever! The BIGGEST ISSUE that aftermarket need to understand. GM did not use RUBBER on their weatherstripping.. I still have the original GM that I took off the door and the weatherstripping is a plastic frame with a moulded FOAM with a skin around the surface, NOT RUBBER.. So unlike the rubber ones we have to buy, there was no having to compress the rubber as it's just FOAM...
keep up the good work marine and God Bless you for your service to this great country
Thank you sir 🇺🇸
Have the doors gotten any easier to close after a couple of months of sitting?
A little
You can find alot of stuff on eBay. I'm in hope mills N.C.
I’m in Benson/Goldsboro
Glad to see a '89 RS project on YT. What's under the hood?
It’s a 2.8 v6 car….tried to find a roller because it will be either 5.3 or 6.0 LS swapped. So this will be trashed when I get to that part of the project
I see you got your window glass in.
Yes Sir!
Awesome center console cup holder!! Did you make it?
I ordered it from Ecklers
Just shut the door harder don't cut. It will help withroad noise
I have that on my passenger side and will be replacing with another brand because it's easiest enough to say to push the door harder from the outside, it's a WHOLE different thing when you are INSIDE the car and your passenger gets inside and the door does not get PULLED hard enough, Then it's REAL difficult to pull the door harder from inside the car. I have to get out and open the passenger side door and slam it. They are just WAY too thick!!!!
The WORST thing people who don't understand they need to open the door fulling and shut the door hander may at times TRY is to PUSH the doorpanel closed which has not fully closed thinking they can get push it closed which highly risk BENDING the outside door panel!!!!
You don't cut them they break in overtime
Door wouldn’t even close lol
Lol trust me bro I get it. I did mine in stages did the door seals first then it sit in the sun then forced the door closed witch felt like I was gonna bend the door lol. But after a couple hot days they started to take shape.
I will be doing a video for my own channel but here is what I've discovered.
The BEST aftermarket door seal I've been able to find is the STEELRUBBER..
I have used the FAIRCHILD KG3033 and the STEERLRUBBER 82-0055-72 and the BIGGEST difference is HUGE!! But might surprise you..
[FAIRCHILD]
- Reinforced metal or plastic in the screw holes and where the plastic rivets (WHITE) are that hold the weather stripping around the door itself
- Fairly Cheap (around $70)
- THICK, strong, Rubber around around the top corners where the upper front and upper rear of door attaches. However the rubber is almost like PLASTIC! VERY DENSE and the skin around it is VERY strong almost where you can hardly compress it with your fingers..
- However, rubber weatherstripping that around the door is HOLLOW.
[STEELRUBBER]
- NO reinforced WHATSOEVER in any of the holes. Just a rubber and you have to poke out the holes yourself. If you don't use a weatherstripping adhesive,, the rivots (BLUE) WILL pull right out of the rubber without any pressure.
- 2X more expensive than FairChild.
- However, Rubber weatherstripping is FILLED with what perhaps might be a foam so it has reinforcement unlike the hollow weather stripping around the door.
- BIGGEST DECIDING FEATURE: The rubber is SOFT at the top corners.
THIS IS THE ISSUE AS TO WHY SO MANY PEOPLE HAVE ISSUES CLOSING THEIR DOORS... The rubber is TOO THICK and TOO DENSE... The rubber on the SteelRubber product is almost a soft GUMMY feel. While the rest are really not all that in best of quality (no reinforcement), I've installed both. SteelRubber is in my driver door for 2 years, and the Fairchild in my passenger.
The passenger door HAS to be slammed to close and if anyone gets into the passenger door and realizes they didn't pull the door hard enough, they CANNOT pull the door from inside, have to most of the time get out and close it for them and get back into my car..
The driver side with the SteelRubber is SOLID! No ripper (Course I put a thin layer of weatherstripping adhesive along the bottoms as well to reduce the chances of the plastic rivets will rip out. I have absolutely no issues closing my driver door with them installed. In fact I can gently close them, no needing to SLAM the door whatsoever!
The BIGGEST ISSUE that aftermarket need to understand. GM did not use RUBBER on their weatherstripping.. I still have the original GM that I took off the door and the weatherstripping is a plastic frame with a moulded FOAM with a skin around the surface, NOT RUBBER.. So unlike the rubber ones we have to buy, there was no having to compress the rubber as it's just FOAM...
Excellent! Thank you very much