RC Paint Adhesion with Createx Colors
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- Опубліковано 8 бер 2020
- In this video I test three different Createx adhesion promoters, as well as paint applied without an adhesion promoter, on an RC car body in order to find out which method provides the best possible adhesion without scuffing the body.
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Scotch-Brite Scrub Dots amzn.to/2TvQ4RJ
Wax & Grease Remover amzn.to/2QRaBRn
7040 Adhesion Promoter dixieart.com/Createx_Scenix_P...
4016 Cross-Linker dixieart.com/Createx_Scenix_P...
4012 Reducer amzn.to/2BNkiGQ
5092 Adhesion Promoter amzn.to/3cDteiJ
4050 UVLS Clear amzn.to/2TxG62w
4011 Reducer amzn.to/2ZbwjP4
Iwata HP-CS Airbrush amzn.to/2YSMqpC
Createx Technical Data Sheets creatextech.com/
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Adhesion promoter seems KEY. After a few bad crashes on the RC track, paint will start chipping or flaking off. Great tips n info. Thanks!
Welcome back, Trevor; good to see you back teaching us; I've been very curious about the Createx adhesion on varied surfaces... Thanks.
Thanks Jimbo!
Nice to see you again. Great, informative vid. thanks for all the tests and experiments :)
Thanks Sven!
Trevor, great to see you are back! Missed your video's! Not my wheelhouse either, but good to know stuff with all the plastic parts we encounter these days! Thanks! Bill
Thanks Bill!
Daaaaaang I been needing a video like this for a while. All we need is a part 2 to see u come up with a sick add design!thanks for the Info 👊🏼👍🏼
Thanks! There are more RC videos in the works.
@@wickedartstudio SAWEEET!
Good to see your back been missing your extremely useful tutorial Hope things went well with all things in life
I appreciate the kind words Rob! Thank you!
Excellent video. Very detailed. Great description of the bonding types, especially.
Thank you!
Excellent. The best comparison I have seen so far. Most people seem to use no adhesion promoter and just live with it. I've tried scuffing. It works, but you do see the micro scratches.
...Thank you for your time in making this video.
Thanks for the kind words and confirming my suspicion about scuffing the surface!
super well done video of some really hard-to-find info! Apparently aerosol cans is what everyone wants for lexan bodies because brush/airbrush paints are much harder to find, and so is good info about them. I think it's probably some aggressive solvents in the cans that really help adhesion to lexan/polycarbonate, and those types of chemicals are going to escape from a screwcap bottle much faster.
This is obviously a niche topic, but but it's definitely not limited to RC bodies. Painting the more chemically stable plastics is something I can tell lots of people are afraid of because it's so demoralizing when your hard work falls off the surface the first time you touch it.
I'm hoping there's a sequel to this vide, maybe showing how 4030 compares to the 4050's adhesion, and a scuffed/unscuffed comparison too.
Again, great job on this test. 4 years later it's still a standout on the subject.
Thanks Trevor, that is great information !!!
Thank you!
Wanted to thank you for the suggestion on SUPER CLEAN. Great on clean up!!!
Awesome!
Hi Trevor great tips as always not into RC bodies at this time but who knows?
Have been using and practicing from your other videos Thanks for your time
Thank you Richard!
Found this video quite interesting.... Lots of good info. Thanks for making it.
You alluded to this possibly being the first in a series. I'm planning a project where I want to paint on the backside of a piece of acrylic then backlight it. I have a feeling the rest of the series might be quite beneficial...
That was, and still is my intent. Painting RC bodies is not something that I normally paint though (this was actually the first time I'd ever put paint on one). Finding the time to create other videos on this subject has been a challenge.
Awesome video! Not sure how I missed it when it came out. I hope you put out some more info on what you came up with. I’ve never used the createx paints on rc bodies, but I used proline paints which were designed for airbrush for rc bodies . And they just scratch right off. So I went back to the good ole rattle cans that are made for polycarbonate and they work great. I’ll have to try some adhesion promoter. I love the idea of airbrushing bodies it just gives you millions of color options when you can mix your own. I’d also love to see what you did with those bodies. 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for the kind words! I will be producing some more videos showing what I do with these bodies.
I was very excited to see that a product that I had purchased could serve two purposes, the Glossy UVLS as a promoter and background and ultimately as a gloss. Well, I just acquired the Glossy UVLS and since I have not read the technical sheets, I did not know that it could be applied as an adhesion promoter and much less in a Body RC Lexan, however I see with a little sadness that the 7040 is better, it will be a question to look for it and buy it. I thank the person who sent you the Body Lexan and who gave you the time to carry out these tests since the images say more than a thousand words and seeing a real application, one of many doubts comes out. Thank you
Thank you!
I mainly use Pro-Line, and Faskolor, but I have done alot of rc bodies with the Createx Wicked line, And like all my other bodies I wait 24 hours to let the paint cure and do a very light coat of Rustoleum or Krylon Gloss Clear Coat and after that dries I do a heavier coat and I haven't ever had a problem with adhesion durability. I've also used Rustoleum White Bonding Primer as a white backer before when I ran out of White airbrush paint and that even worked. So as long as you prep the body,give it a good scuffing unless you're using Mirror Chrome, and do light even coats your RC paintjob will be durable.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for the video. The paint that is used for RC polycarbonate bodies is of special type. It bonds by slightly melting into the surface of the plastic and does not scratch off easily. (sorry don't know technical terms) I have painted many RC bodies with spray cans of Tamiya paint for these bodies. I just started using an airbrush and was informed there is an additive that allows these paints to bond better. Thanks again for your videos. To add these paints have a very strong odor, different from lacquer but just as strong.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
That was awesome.
Thank you, my friend!
Very nice to see you again, Trevor! Also nice to see someone like you, with a lot of experience, try something new and experiment! I usually use a worn 3m red Scotch-Brite and clean the surface thoroughly with an alcohol-based pre-cleaner! Really excited to try the new 4050. Spraying a promoter instead of scuffing feels like such a comfortable (read lazy ) option! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for these bodies!
Stay safe!
Kind regards from Sweden!
Thank you! I don't consider using adhesion promoter over scuffing the surface as lazy in this case though. It would take a decent amount of time to properly scuff the entire inner surface of one of these bodies (depending on how many body lines and other contours are molded into said body anyway). Time is money and I would guess the lifespan of these bodies isn't great if/when they are used for the purpose intended. For those reasons, as well as the size of the bodies I'm experimenting with, spending too much time preparing the surface takes away from profitability. In my opinion, it is far more economical to use an adhesion promoter in this case. Of course, I'll get a better idea of how durable these will actually be after I send them back to the owner and he has the opportunity to test them (which will take some time), but the adhesion promoters have performed above my expectations so far (especially the 7040).
@@wickedartstudio you normally dont need a adhesion promoter you have to be very carefull with laxean what you use
@@AndrewMurphy8383 Okay. Thanks for sharing.
@@wickedartstudio @Wicked Art Airbrush Studio well that not always true i seen online rc bodies that have lasted 10 15 years depending if your bashing or racing and if u crash or send it flying . You also want not scuff it up be cause if you did the scuff marks can been seen at some point u dont live that far from me here in oklahoma you should come buy i got rc body and i could show u how i airbrush it or prep it for paint. it would be good to have something tuck away in case you get people wanting you to do a body
@@AndrewMurphy8383 Hey Andrew! I appreciate your input! I was aware scratch marks from scuffing the surface will likely show due to the reverse painting process. I never would've thought a body could last 10 to 15 years though. It makes sense now that I think about it, because some will take better care of their equipment compared to others. I'm always up for meeting another airbrush artist. The fact that I can learn from you is an extra bonus! Shoot me an email at wickedartstudio@gmail.com and maybe we can get something set up.
Thanks so much for the video, Trevor. Glad to see you back.
This is exciting since we recently started working with some Lexan bodies here in our studio. In this series, will you be doing any graphics?
Looking forward to the rest of the series. :)
Thank you! I'm not completely back yet though. Videos will still be sporadic until I can get a better system worked out, but there are more RC videos coming and yes, I will be doing some graphics on them.
Wicked Art Airbrush Studio We will keep an eye out for the videos and hope that things get settled for you soon.
I use to use enamel many many years ago, with no primer worked fine.
Still have one left 30 years old still good.
Wow! 30 years is very good as far as durability goes!
Hey good to see you again. Couldn't wait to get off work to watch. I used Dupli-Color adhesion promoter on my atv and it done really well. I run it through branches and im pretty hard on it and still holding up well. Not sure if it's compatible with airbrush paints tho.
Hey Josh! I've never tried any of the Dupli-Color products. Glad to know it worked well for you. ATV and motocross plastics are normally difficult to get anything to stick to them long term.
Hey bro, good 2 c u. Good shi-, never heard of that adhesion promoter.
Thanks Pete! I wasn't aware Createx made any adhesion promoters either because I've never needed one with their products before.
The 4030 balancing clear makes it lot harder finish while remaining flexible. I use it in almost all my createx paints to add a bit of durability.
Agreed.
Great video and it’s good to know. I’ve been using createx on RC cars for years without adhesion promoter. Never had a issue. I just followed there web page for lexan.
Awesome! Thank you for sharing your experience!
Very informative video. I would like to see this test repeated using Createx Candy paints.
Thank you!
When you paint rc bodies with an airbrush or any other paint method, you need to put on a sealer. Created makes some in their Auto color line. It’s thick as paste and tend to gobb up my iwata eclipses. Even when it’s reduced at a 4:1 ratio. But when it dries it is a durable backing for these bodies. Hope this helps. Love your work.
Thanks John! I already intended to try using Auto-Borne sealers near the end of the paint work on these bodies. Knowing it has worked for you solidifies the decision!
The President of Createx said no sealer is needed,you can if you want but it's not needed but if you do don't go over 10%. Wicked you spray up close to the body and standard Createx you spray at a distance. But what I do is after 24 hours of curing I spray some Krylon gloss clear coat. I do one dusting of a very light coat,let that dry and then hit it with a heavy coat and my rc paintjobs last longer than most of the bodies..
Thank you for this video! I am just making the move from rattle can to air brush and finding your channel has been awesome. I will mainly do rc body paint jobs so it is cool to see the different adhesion promoter/base primer sprays being used against one another. In this video it appears the 7040 may have been the best working to bind the paints together on the lexan? I was thinking that with more color sprayed along with a full coat of backer you may not have had the scratching ability you had here in your sample patch being just a few passes ya know... How did the paint job come out over all? Thank you for the videos!
I appreciate the kind words! I haven't actually painted the body yet. RC is not that popular where I'm located and I don't normally paint them for that reason. I will eventually do some more videos covering the process, but it's not a priority at the moment.
3m scuff it with gray scotchbright and brushes on inside. Then spray adhesion promoter then spray clear then the color.
Thanks for the tips!
Good idea for the layering. Does this combination fill in and/or cover up any of the scuff marks from the scotch bright?
This is an airbrush now, not hvlp, don’t you think the scuffs will show thru? Being the mil scale will be so thin ?
Great information. I've been looking for a better adhesion promoter for rubber. I've been using 5092. I'm going to try 7040. I'm also going to switch to Createx paints and see how this goes.
I'm not sure if 7040 will work on a rubber surface or not. As I'm sure you're aware, it's tough to get anything to stick to rubber... I'd definitely recommend trying it on a test piece first. I'm curious, has 5092 not performed well for you? It is my understanding that is the "go too" adhesion promoter for silicone. I would think it would perform the best on a rubber surface too, but I have no experience in this area.
@@wickedartstudio I ordered 7040 with the 4016 link. I read up on the product prior to. The website says its good for with rubber surfaces. I received my order today. We shall see how this goes. 😁
@@wickedartstudio Createx Scenix Adhesion Promoter (7040)
Volume: 32oz
A water-based, acrylic-urethane primer for making paint stick to difficult substrates Including: plastic, rubber, glass, foam, latex, 3D Print Composite and more. I'm praying it works well. Going to test it out today. Either way I appreciate the information you provided. This is an awesome test video.
@@wickedartstudio Also the 5092 has helped with leather surfaces, but not rubber. It wasn't the absolute best promoter, but it was better than the original promoter I first started using. Its all about trial and error.
@@NiijiSunGoddess I can definitely relate to the trail and error! I hope the 7040 works out better for you!
Hi,there's a video by sm designs airbrush titled how to paint scenic clear coats, you might want to watch , he say's that its createx's best adhesion promoter in response to one question. Its worth a watch just to see the motorcycle tank.
I'm familiar with the Scenix clear and have used it. The UVLS clear is the newest line of clear in the Createx line. It doesn't require using the catalyst. That's a plus because it's one less thing to purchase and one less thing to mix. I don't know what the chemical difference is between the Scenix clear and the 7040 adhesion promoter, but I suspect they are very similar. There was no need to test both in my opinion.
Nice work my friend what can you do Candy paint on a hardbody RC like the K5 blazer
Thank you, Jose! A candy paint job is the same process as any other RC paint job. You have to paint in reverse, first the candy layers and then the base layer for the candy.
Use Spaz Stix and call it a day. Back in the day we used Pactra and then later Duratrax. Solvent paints work so much better for adhesion because there is chemical adhesion. Not to mention these paints are easier to blend fades etc.
I agree with what you said about solvent based systems Don. I switched to water-based a long time ago though and prefer to avoid purchasing other products for one or two jobs.
Solvents are king in all types of finishes
Wicked Art Airbrush Studio, If you could work out if it is polycarbonate or not which it looks like it is try using a single pack epoxy etch. One way to find out of its adhear ability is to try lighly sanding it. If it sands it a dust then paint will stick.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing, William!
First time seeing your videos, and they are definitely helpful. I paint rc bodies and have been having an issue with adhesion. Been a year since this was posted, did you move to a different channel? Stop painting? Or give up on the lexan?
Hi Dave. Thanks for the kind words! I haven't moved to a different channel and I haven't stopped painting. I simply haven't had the free time available to make videos for a while now. I will be back on UA-cam at some point; however, I can't specify when that will be exactly. For what it's worth, I don't normally paint on Lexan or RC bodies though.
You mentioned you have old stock createx paints. How do you bring back open dehydrated paints to use? Ihave textile paints haven't used in a year and they are thick and clumpy.
Hi Belton! Once they become thick and clumpy, they are beyond saving in my opinion. You might be able to get away with reducing it down and straining it, but I would recommend trashing it and ordering a new bottle.
i'm a long time RC paint guy, and ive been curious about Createx products. love the video but i can tell you the scratch test not necessarily true as most of us use a backer or backing paint after finishing it helps protect your work. anyway great video.
I appreciate the kind words and advice from someone with experience is always welcome! Perhaps I can pick your brain? I plan to use a backer as added protection as well; however, the backer does nothing to improve adhesion on the first layers of paint. For example, I'm sure you've seen one of those factory automotive paint jobs that is peeling away all the way down to the primer (or even bare metal in some cases) over the years. The reason behind those failures is poor prep and/or contamination was introduced at the factory. Lack of good adhesion on the underlying coats resulted in paint failure. A catalyzed clear coat was strong enough to hold the paint in place for some time, but not for the life of the vehicle. In the automotive paint world, adhesion from the ground up is very important and that's why I took the approach you saw in my video. Am I over thinking this from your experience?
@@wickedartstudio I think maybe you are overthinking it, the paint adhered until you actually scratched it off. having the backer gives you protection from that. Most of us back with white, then a plain black or black backer also. and even for basher vehicles this is more than enough to protect from actual scratches
@@ggjflyguy Thanks for the reply! Painting RC is not something I normally do and it's completely out of my wheelhouse. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge! I get that the paint adhered to a degree before I scratched it off.. My thought was the paint could fail and begin peeling due to the Lexan bending when a car is crashed or hits something. I have no idea what the life expectancy is for one of these bodies (I assume not long), so there's a good chance I am overthinking it. Thank you again for the advice!
Can I use the createx colors and the wicked line both? Can't find colors I want locally. Normally I use 2k automotive urethane with no problem but gets kinda expensive just for a rc body
Hey Brian! Yes, you absolutely can. All of the Createx lines are intermixable, either in the cup or on the canvas. The only product of theirs that I wouldn't recommend doing that with is the Createx Airbrush Colors line. Those are specifically designed for fabrics. Wicked Colors, Illustration Colors and AutoBorne Sealers are all intermixable. The Auto Air Colors line was merged with the Wicked line last year. Some of the Auto Air products might still be in circulation though and they are also intermixable.
What about mixing 4030 to the paint and paint direct to the shell?
I've painted a bunch of shells with createx colors direct to the shell and my experience is that the shells is being used to its full before the paint has been scrubbed of so i dont see the benefit of using adhesive promotors more then over do it.
/Tomas
Painting RC bodies is not in my wheelhouse. In fact, this was the first time I played with painting one. After uploading the video I got a lot of comments like yours from those who have a lot more experience than I do in this arena. Based on those comments, the general consensus agrees with you. My background is custom painting full size vehicles and ultimate durability is very important for that. So, I was likely over thinking the RC end of it. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us!
@@wickedartstudio I understand what you aimed for.
I really like your content on the channel and I've learned a lot. Keep up the awsome work.
/Tomas
@@TomasHedlund16 Thank you! I appreciate the kind words!
I'm way behind, two years behind, but anyway. I've tried several types of paints over my 6 years playing with rc's..... proline water based paint seems to spray well. But not as durable as Tamiya ps spray cans (I have potted small amounts from the cans for use in airbrush, with fair results). But you want the adhesion promoter, I've had the paint fall right off after a few months. Scratch test is ok, but it's surprising how hard it is to make any custom paint job last without completely sealing it after it's done, with something like shoe goo and drywall tape. But the added weight isn't what racers really want.
Proline lays down fantastic, and spaztix paints also lay down nicely, however the ps Tamiya paints will stay on even if the car folds in half at 60 mph.
My biggest hurtle was figuring out how to plan my designs backwards, and somehow do highlights before the actual background......yeeehaw.......
Hope you went out to get an rc car after this. Crawlers, racers, bashers,doesn't matter. It always brings out a smile in anyone who trys one
It took me a while, but yes, I eventually wound up with my own RC crawler.
I ordered adhesion promoter from you guys from Amazon. But you sent me 5082 Flex Additive. What gives?
I don't sell Createx Products. You didn't order anything from me. I would suggest contacting the company you placed the order with.
Sorry for the misspell, but can you Candy paint a hardbody RC?
Yes, you just have to do it backwards.
Just went through this, the flexible adhesion promoter SUCKS! Dupont Adhesion Promoter in a rattle can saved me I was doing some graphics outside the car and scuffed with 3000 grit, used the flex promoter from Createx, the tape peeled off the graphics it was over. The Dupont rattle can acted much like the 7040, I was able to tape over and paint etc. I didn't try the autoborne sealer but I have a feeling it wouldn't be that great. Can't get the Scenix 7040 in Canada
Hmm...I didn't have trouble with tape peeling up paint with any of these adhesion promoters. I've heard the 4015 and 4016 crosslinkers have been discontinued, but I haven't confirmed that yet. If they have been, the 7040 will be discontinued as well anyway.
@@wickedartstudio my exact test was: outside of rc body, masking frisket on, flex promoter, wait, spray paint, let dry, remove frisket, put new frisket layer over and spray that, tried to remove and it took previous layers.
Rattle can dupont let me paint some fun matte stripes on outside without any issue.
You can scuff the inside of the body with a green kitchen pad. Just avoid anything you want to keep clear.
Thanks for the tip!
just wondering can you also use Jacquard paint to do this ???
This was the first time I've ever delved into painting an RC body. I used Createx paint because that's what I use for everything else I do. I've never used Jacquard paint before. So, I can't say with certainty that Jacquard would work for this application. I would think it would work just fine, but I would advise you try it out on a small inconspicuous area first to be sure.
@@wickedartstudio im a sneaker designer and was asking for someone i know im not into cars hahah
And what would happen if the paint was applied glossy AVLS directly, mixed well and then applied to Lexan?
I'm not sure I understand your question... could you clarify for me?
I have no idea what's that extra adhesion that you're putting there for the lexan body.
For reducing my pains I use 4012 water base, for adhesion I use 4030 balancing clear I mixed my water base 4012 with my balancing clear 4030 give it 5 minutes to 10 minutes so it can mulsify before adding it to your paint so you don't shock your paint.
Yeah, the RC cars are completely out of my wheelhouse. Many others with a lot more experience in this realm have left similar comments telling me the adhesion promoter isn't really necessary. My background is custom painting full size vehicles. An adhesion promoter is often needed when painting plastic parts on life sized vehicles and that's why I decided to test them out on this RC body. Thanks for sharing your experience!
@@wickedartstudio always a pleasure and I love watching people use great text on their real cars is awesome it comes out so glossy depending on how you want to do it great job keep up the good work 🤙🏻🔥😎🔥👍🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
So three years later are you still using the adhesion promoters? If so, which one?
I don't paint a lot of RC bodies, but I have done a couple since creating this video. I did use an initial coat or two of 4050 UVLS Gloss as an adhesion promoter with excellent results.
I think they are now suggesting just using 4050 now for all hard surfave
Hey CJ! 4050 is an excellent adhesion promoter, as well as a primer for bare metal prior to adding color based on my own experience. It has many other uses that are fantastic for the custom painter/airbrush artist as well. However, I don't use 4050 on every hard surface. There should be a need, or an advantage provided by the 4050 in my opinion, otherwise you're wasting material. Based on other comments from those that have more experience painting Lexan RC bodies, I don't think 4050 is needed.
@@wickedartstudio interesting good to know...i do wonder though about 3d printed stuff hmm will just have to experiment
@@cjadams7434 Prep work on a 3D printed surface is a challenge because you're not working on a flat surface. Using a light layer or two of 4050 is not a bad idea for that purpose depending on what colors you're using (some of the newer Wicked formulations already have 4050 in them). I would do some tests on a piece you're not worried about if things don't go as planned to see what the difference is with 4050 as an adhesion promoter versus without it. If the paint can't be scratched off easily once it's cured (there's a difference between cured and dry to the touch) without using 4050, there's probably no need to use it. Make sense?
@@wickedartstudio yes was my thoughts too
You can scuff the polycarbonate to create a mechanical adhesion. You don’t see them
Good to know. Thank you for sharing!
Still want to show u how to do that bro
Hey Andrew! I'm sorry. I've been incredibly busy lately, but I'm more than willing to get together if you have a time that will work!
Should have said scenix clear coats.
I'm a little confused... did you mean I should've tried the Scenix clear on this?
Sorry for the confusion, the second post was to correct auto spell error on the word Snenix. I didn't know UVLS was a later product and i don't know how Scecix should react with the RC body shell. I'm quite new to the airbrush world and have been watching vid after vid. The way the Scenix adhered to the mirror and and the answered comment about being Createx's best adhesion promoter was the reason for my comment. (Shouldn't teach granny how to suck eggs lol ) On another topic I have to say your video' s are the best in my opinion for new air brushers wanting to learn various techniques ( especially real time ones e.g 4 part eagle portrait ). Please keep them coming, and stay safe in this troubled time.
Lol expensive