Excellent work, very good finish, I just need to investigate a little more some details, and the main thing to acquire the paints and the different elements to try to carry out the painting of two RC bodies, one in polycarbonate (Lexan) and the other in ABS plastic
@@CreatexColors It is the first time that I am going to acquire Createx paints, if I am interested in the technical issues of dissolution, paint percentages and reducers, as well as if they have varnish or lacquers to give a glossy finish. In the past I have used automotive paints, and gloss or lacquer for the final finish with its respective catalyst, only this paint is very different from Createx. Since Createx is water based, and I have never used this type of paint.
Hi Chris - Was this what you were working on in the booth last Thursday (19 August) when I called? I was hoping for another great video and you didn’t disappoint 😁! The other advantage of keeping the air blowing when using the airbrush is to reduce or eliminate tip drying (for those who are new to airbrushing). Paint “spitting” from tip drying really messes up fading or blending and tends to make a person want to turn the piece being painted into a frezbee... yes, I am guilty as charged your honor!
Your videos are so rich with information I just watch whatever I haven't seen yet....and sometimes re-watch a few that are most relevant to what I'm trying to accomplish. Thanks for the help. I'm developing an interest in reverse painted glass, and I was wondering if I did exactly what you've done here could I expect the same results as far as adhesion to the glass, or would you recommend that I "prep" the glass first with a coat of 4050 UVLS clear? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
4050 UVLS Gloss Clear is best for an adhesion coating direct to glass. For best results, scuff / abrase the glass to remove the gloss sheen prior to paint. Thank you.
@@CreatexColors Whoa....wait a minute! You posted this video 2 years ago, and replied to my question in less than a week? You're the absolute best!!! That's why I just watch (and trust) whatever you put out. I guess that's why I figured it was worth a shot to even ask? Thanks for the help!
Great video. Spraying at only 30psi with a great spray pattern and no needle-tip buildup makes me seriously want to toss my old T&C Vega 2000 in the garbage and try a gravity feed. What model is that Iwata, specifically? Also, do you prefer gravity-feed airbushes to siphon-feeds? How's the clean-up process and/or swapping between colors (if not doing a transition like you did)? Major pain? And finally, when you say "sealer white" is that a specific Createx formulation, or is it just Opaque White? Thanks! EDIT: Ah, I see that "sealer white" is Createx's(?) AutoBorne Sealer white.
The airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Use the 4011 Reducer to flush the airbrush in between color changes. The sealer mentioned is AutoBorne Sealer 6001 Sealer White, www.autoborne.com. Thank you.
I use the createx pearls a lot on scale model bodies, do you think the silver sealer would be a better base or first coat for pearls other than silver? I really like the idea of fewer coats to preserve detail.
6013 Silver Sealer's aluminum flake size is the same as 4102 Aluminum Medium, which can work to scale for some finishes where a coarser metallic works, autoaircolors.com/pearl-and-metallic-colors/metallic-colors/4102.html. For most scale silver finishes, Createx 5308 Pearl Silver, 4302 Pearlized Silver, 4333 Metallic Silver or 4104 Aluminum Fine will work better, with 6013 Silver Sealer used as a backing color. Thank you.
If the paint wants to peel up with the masking (even after extended drying times) is that a product of being too heavy handed with the paint or possibly another issue?
Applying paint in heavy coats often leads to failure, especially when multiple heavy coats are applied with re-coat times that do not let each coat dry before applying the next coat. Ultimately, curing is the issue; when paint is applied in heavy coats without adequate re-coat time to allow each coat to dry tack free, the time to dry before the coating has adequate adhesion is greatly extended, perhaps instead of 60 minutes dry time before tape, dry time may be 24 - 48 hours. Thank you.
Sometimes I use a heat gun at the least hot setting to speed up drying between coats. Of course far away from the substrate. Is that ok or something you advice against?
We do not recommend heat for assisting drying; moving air is best. Warm moving air is good, but not direct heat. For this and other information, please review the Hard Surface application guide and tech data sheets available at www.creatextech.com. Thank you.
The acrylic resin used to make AutoBorne Sealer is also used to make UVLS Clears, in which that acrylic resin is blended with 2 urethane resins. As an adhesive coating, UVLS Clears and AutoBorne Sealer are fairly close onto most substrates except glass, for which UVLS has better adhesion. In regard to a durable top-coat, UVLS Clears are more durable and more protective top-coat. AutoBorne Sealer is an adhesive ground-coat / sealer-primer. UVLS is a top-coat clear that also works well as an adhesive ground-coat. Thank you.
I noticed you didnt mention adhesion promoter. Is it not needed, or not recommended. My sons are getting into RC cars I have to paint, and several people have told me I have to use adhesion promoter.
No adhesion promoter required. We've been making RC paint under private label and with our Createx brand for over 30 years; an adhesion promoter is not required when painting polycarbonate. Thank you.
I will say it's not needed as well. I've airbrushed lots of these bodies and never had a delamination problem. They have held up to lots of my kids crashes and roll overs.
Could you consider doing a Lexan RC body shell complete reverse painting design. Due to impact while racing, would we need to scuff first so paint doesn't chip off?
Createx paints are often used for RC body painting onto polycarbonate / Lexan without scuffing. Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors adhere well to polycarbonate without scuffing. Thank you.
@@codyprice0295 Yes and no. Scuffing won't be noticeable with most opaque colors, but would show on special effect colors such as chrome, pearls, metallic, flakes or shift. It's just best not to scuff as it really isn't necessary if you follow the TDS and really allow the paint to cure before moving on to the next coat or step.
Awesome tutorial on plastic, those colours really pop 😁👍
thank you
I wish my hobby lobby had more of your products.
Try spraygunner.com/paints-for-airbrush/createx-colors/. Thank you.
Excellent work, very good finish, I just need to investigate a little more some details, and the main thing to acquire the paints and the different elements to try to carry out the painting of two RC bodies, one in polycarbonate (Lexan) and the other in ABS plastic
thanks, for more help, please email us at info@createxcolors.com
@@CreatexColors It is the first time that I am going to acquire Createx paints, if I am interested in the technical issues of dissolution, paint percentages and reducers, as well as if they have varnish or lacquers to give a glossy finish. In the past I have used automotive paints, and gloss or lacquer for the final finish with its respective catalyst, only this paint is very different from Createx. Since Createx is water based, and I have never used this type of paint.
Thanks for sharing 👍🏻✌🏼
Thanks for watching
Nice work Craig!
Thanks!
Great video as always 👍🏻👍🏼👍🏽👍🏾👍🏿👍 keep them coming! 🙂
thanks!
Hi Chris - Was this what you were working on in the booth last Thursday (19 August) when I called? I was hoping for another great video and you didn’t disappoint 😁! The other advantage of keeping the air blowing when using the airbrush is to reduce or eliminate tip drying (for those who are new to airbrushing). Paint “spitting” from tip drying really messes up fading or blending and tends to make a person want to turn the piece being painted into a frezbee... yes, I am guilty as charged your honor!
Keep the Air On!
I’m just getting into painting R/C bodies and I thought you are supposed to start with the darker colors first?
RC graphics are often painted reverse, from the inside of the polycarbonate car body. Thank you.
super intéressant comme démonstration merciiiiii
Your videos are so rich with information I just watch whatever I haven't seen yet....and sometimes re-watch a few that are most relevant to what I'm trying to accomplish. Thanks for the help. I'm developing an interest in reverse painted glass, and I was wondering if I did exactly what you've done here could I expect the same results as far as adhesion to the glass, or would you recommend that I "prep" the glass first with a coat of 4050 UVLS clear? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
4050 UVLS Gloss Clear is best for an adhesion coating direct to glass. For best results, scuff / abrase the glass to remove the gloss sheen prior to paint. Thank you.
@@CreatexColors Whoa....wait a minute! You posted this video 2 years ago, and replied to my question in less than a week? You're the absolute best!!! That's why I just watch (and trust) whatever you put out. I guess that's why I figured it was worth a shot to even ask? Thanks for the help!
Great video. Spraying at only 30psi with a great spray pattern and no needle-tip buildup makes me seriously want to toss my old T&C Vega 2000 in the garbage and try a gravity feed. What model is that Iwata, specifically? Also, do you prefer gravity-feed airbushes to siphon-feeds? How's the clean-up process and/or swapping between colors (if not doing a transition like you did)? Major pain? And finally, when you say "sealer white" is that a specific Createx formulation, or is it just Opaque White? Thanks! EDIT: Ah, I see that "sealer white" is Createx's(?) AutoBorne Sealer white.
The airbrush is an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Use the 4011 Reducer to flush the airbrush in between color changes. The sealer mentioned is AutoBorne Sealer 6001 Sealer White, www.autoborne.com. Thank you.
@@CreatexColors Thank you for the information. If it's the HP-CS, did you add the preset handle? That's what was throwing me off!
@@CreatexColors Can you please recommend a good, water-based grease and wax remover?
I use the createx pearls a lot on scale model bodies, do you think the silver sealer would be a better base or first coat for pearls other than silver? I really like the idea of fewer coats to preserve detail.
6013 Silver Sealer's aluminum flake size is the same as 4102 Aluminum Medium, which can work to scale for some finishes where a coarser metallic works, autoaircolors.com/pearl-and-metallic-colors/metallic-colors/4102.html. For most scale silver finishes, Createx 5308 Pearl Silver, 4302 Pearlized Silver, 4333 Metallic Silver or 4104 Aluminum Fine will work better, with 6013 Silver Sealer used as a backing color. Thank you.
If the paint wants to peel up with the masking (even after extended drying times) is that a product of being too heavy handed with the paint or possibly another issue?
Applying paint in heavy coats often leads to failure, especially when multiple heavy coats are applied with re-coat times that do not let each coat dry before applying the next coat. Ultimately, curing is the issue; when paint is applied in heavy coats without adequate re-coat time to allow each coat to dry tack free, the time to dry before the coating has adequate adhesion is greatly extended, perhaps instead of 60 minutes dry time before tape, dry time may be 24 - 48 hours. Thank you.
Sometimes I use a heat gun at the least hot setting to speed up drying between coats. Of course far away from the substrate. Is that ok or something you advice against?
We do not recommend heat for assisting drying; moving air is best. Warm moving air is good, but not direct heat. For this and other information, please review the Hard Surface application guide and tech data sheets available at www.creatextech.com. Thank you.
Is your sealer as durable as your 4050. Ive been using 4050 as finale coat for durability.
The acrylic resin used to make AutoBorne Sealer is also used to make UVLS Clears, in which that acrylic resin is blended with 2 urethane resins. As an adhesive coating, UVLS Clears and AutoBorne Sealer are fairly close onto most substrates except glass, for which UVLS has better adhesion. In regard to a durable top-coat, UVLS Clears are more durable and more protective top-coat. AutoBorne Sealer is an adhesive ground-coat / sealer-primer. UVLS is a top-coat clear that also works well as an adhesive ground-coat. Thank you.
I noticed you didnt mention adhesion promoter. Is it not needed, or not recommended. My sons are getting into RC cars I have to paint, and several people have told me I have to use adhesion promoter.
No adhesion promoter required. We've been making RC paint under private label and with our Createx brand for over 30 years; an adhesion promoter is not required when painting polycarbonate. Thank you.
I will say it's not needed as well. I've airbrushed lots of these bodies and never had a delamination problem. They have held up to lots of my kids crashes and roll overs.
Could you consider doing a Lexan RC body shell complete reverse painting design. Due to impact while racing, would we need to scuff first so paint doesn't chip off?
Createx paints are often used for RC body painting onto polycarbonate / Lexan without scuffing. Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked Colors adhere well to polycarbonate without scuffing. Thank you.
Wouldn’t scuffing be seen through the body anyway?
@@codyprice0295 Yes and no. Scuffing won't be noticeable with most opaque colors, but would show on special effect colors such as chrome, pearls, metallic, flakes or shift.
It's just best not to scuff as it really isn't necessary if you follow the TDS and really allow the paint to cure before moving on to the next coat or step.
What should you use as a sealer base for gold?
AutoBorne Sealer Yellow & Tan mixed 1:1, ua-cam.com/video/fH_tzAXk6vw/v-deo.html. Thank you.
How would you paint lace??
Lightly, without saturation or wetted coats, use lace as a graphic-stencil. Thank you.
What psi are you spraying at?
~ 30 psi. thanks