I went ahead and shunt modded my 45 amp controller. I turned the display amp limit down to 20 and it is now slightly faster than before the mod. Thank you for the tutorial!
What was the original display Amp and why turn down the display Amp limit to 20? Because by Shunt Modding the Controller ( making the copper connections inside beefier ) aren't you trying gain speed ?
Absolutely amazing video, watched about 30 ebike videos in the last week and i gotta say, yours i by far the best❤. Straight to the point and with many great tips like the waterproog costing on the motor and the "thermal compound" for the controller with great explanations for why youre doing that👍👍👍👍
Great video man. Thanks for the info. I just replaced the battery,controller,and motor on my 2019 RadCity. Using a 2000 watt motor,40amp controller and 72v battery. I have physical limitations at 50 years old and don't pedal much (throttle only usually) and noticed things getting warm. You provided some possible solutions to make my new upgrades last longer.
So much searching and finally found this, thank you kind sir!... There is a GMAC geared hub by Grin that has regenerative braking. It has a traditional bike axle because the wire goes thru the side. Just getting into the e part of ebikes and it would be cool to see a system built up around that or something like it. Thanks again
You're a good man! I have been waiting to see someone talk about this! Show how to do half the job is not cool, show them how to deal with the heat issue after modding IS COOL! Thanks and so everyone understands, DO NOT DO THE CONTROLLER MODE WITHOUT THERMAL EPOXY!!!! I subscribed and you all should too! Just saying.
Awesome, very comprehensive video! I think a lot of people would like to see you upgrade older bikes that are out there on the used market for sale, such as Sondors or Rad Power that may have less than impressive performance. I'd personally like to see how you tackle them. Thanks.
That epoxy idea is something I've never seen and I've been to a bunch of channels I'm digging your content so far man! I'm going to come back on here in a couple months to brag about how I discovered you first! I got my first kit on the way I'm going to throw it on a old trek 900 I'm only going 1000 Watts though. Should be faster than my lectric!
The idea is not new at all its been done for many years in florescent light ballasts they are always filled with heat defusing compounds... also hot glue is a VERY BAD BAD BAD IDEA. It does not transfer energy but rather retains it making it a time bomb for failure. DO not follow this advice you will regret it.
Absolutely, we will DEFINITELY be doing one of these! We will be doing a video showing how to design a custom shaped battery in Onshape (free software). Stay tuned and thank you for watching :D
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory sweeeeeeet!! Once I start having to group my parallel cells in clusters, my brain short circuits to figure out how to make series connections properly.
Hi! Thanks you for your video :).. I have a 500W Green Pedel and my rear derailleur collides with the engine when putting it in the highest gear. Does this happen with all Green Pedels? Is there any solution for that?
Yes you'll have to adjust the derailleur, there are two screws (L and H) on the derailleur, you'll have to adjust it so that the derailler can't quite get that far inward and rub against your hub motor. It will be the L adjustment that you need to adjust (Low Gear). Hope this helps!
My knowledge in electrical is very basic. I’m mechanical minded my question is When u double the current, doesn’t it draw down the battery faster ? Thank you in advance
You're knowledge is correct! Yes doubling the current is definitely much harder on the battery, we recommend having a VERY strong battery in order to handle the power demands. Thank you for the comment!
@@alirezashirazifard8990 most likely it may not make a lot of difference. 250w motors are fairly small and the winding might burn out just as fast as the lead wires you want to replace. so replacing the lead wires may not actually solve a whole lot. Yes you can do that but what this video suggests is usually "ok" to do if you have a Direct Drive motor. not a geared 250w dinky little motor that will have failures in many ways than one.
The Force is strong 💪 in you! Excellent skillset thank you for your knowledge and sharing! This is Expert Build! Not for the beginner! Look at his build! Clean and Streamline! DIY Flawless Build! I would love to see you build Recumbent DIY E Bike Kit 3 or 4 Wheeler’s I know that the ultimate Recumbents. A mid drive powered with Ba Fang M 620
I would be concerned with heat disappation if you use the varnish water sealer mentioned. Yes, it will keep water from touching the conductors, but it traps heat. I would use a ferrofluid like Grin Tech's "statorade" to help with heat dissapation and then either add a gasket or high temp silicone caulking between the cover and shell to keep water out. That would be the best of both worlds.
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory yes, and that's awesome! I was putting it in text in case people were just scanning through the posts. Have you found that the varnish has been also sealing in the heat?
Haven't noticed any negative effects so far the motors have held up really well. It would have to be tested back to back to really be able to come to a conclusion though. I feel like the waterproofing is worth it unless you are right on the edge of burning out your motor but even then a hot motor cooling down draws more water in so tough to say. Another UA-camr (DrBass) actually paints the side covers black on the inside to "absorb" any radiant heat which is interesting. Another one where you'd probably have to test back to back to know the real results. But very cool regardless ! Thanks for the comment! :D
Great video! and I just sold my ST-50 for my e-bike lol! have a question tho.. I pulled all the screws out of my Chinese Mukkpet 48V controller but I cannot open the case because it seems like its all filled up with a clear hard gell from the factory, 🤷♂have you ever seen this before? or do you have any tips how to open it so I can do the shunt mod? thanks
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory thank you for the reply. I’m not sure if it is epoxy or not, but when I open it up, it’s like a hard gel substance all through it. That sucks. I am having a hard time with this controller. I’ve spent hours online trying to find it online just some variation of a KZQ26 whatever that even means🤷♂️. The bike is a Mukkpet 750 motor is 9 pin, but Controller says RATTAN 48V (Chinese) . Emailed both companies no response @ all. Should I just count my blessings that I’m getting 25 miles an hour being 6 foot 4 250 and just leave it alone? Or perhaps try 52 V battery instead 🤷♂️ anyway thanks just subscribed. 🙏
Yeah even in for the 60A controllers I think you could get some incredible performance out of them. Definitely something we want to try out and hopefully will be able to shortly. I think modding a 60A and getting 100+A is doable which ends up getting up there with much more expensive controllers
@ElectricBikeLaboratory I did just that and have the potting ready to go, but I won't start mixing until I bench test everything. I appreciate your channel. I've learned quite a bit.
@ElectricBikeLaboratory update: I shunt modded a 60a 72v paired to a 3.5t 3k 29" wheel. My son at 150lbs went 62mph on a decent Florida downhill. 52 on flat road. I'm in the process of following all these steps shown in the video on a shunt modded 45a "2000w" 72v kit. I fried the last wheel from the heat riding 30mph on the beach.
Hi I've just come on to your channel I've been looking at another video about the controller it's to solder the two bars to confuse the controller to give it more power have you done upgrade and does it work I've been watch cross wires a guy in America hes built a bike that does 80 mph wivh is impressive
Hi there, generally 2kW is not an available option for hub motors. It usually goes; 500 -> 750 -> 1000W -> 1500W -> 3000W -> 5000W -> 8000W And brakes wise, V-Brakes can easily work better than disc brakes given the right setup. The amount of torque that V-Brakes are apply to apply to the wheel compared to disc brakes is pretty staggering when you consider that a disc brake has a 160mm rotor, so the brake pads are only grabbing 160mm away from the center point. Since Torque = Force x Distance, the distance is quite small on a 160mm rotor. This is why larger discs, such as 180mm and 203mm are used. V-Brakes on the other hand grab the rim at the distance of the rim, which on a 26'' wheel, is say grabbing around 22'' or 560mm. You can see that the amount of force required for braking power is much less because the distance is so much further. With a good set of brake pads (KoolStop E-Brake Pads for example), a V-Brake setup can provide excellent stopping force in most conditions. Something to consider! These brake pads actually stopped the bike very well, and the very large aluminum rim acts way better as a heat sink than a tiny disc. Ultimately, regenerative braking ends up being an excellent way to beef up braking power, we're aiming to do that in an upcoming video. Thanks for the comment!
Without a 3d printer, you can order plastic sheet that can be heat formed, and plastic welded. It's the same plastic you see used for school bus escape hatches, plastic housing for automotive accessories like guage pods and cd player bezels. It's not polyethylene. Maybe polyester?
@@marthamryglod291 Yes that's an excellent idea. ABS / Acrylic sheets both could work. I believe that ABS can be "melted" together with acetone (nail polish) which is pretty simple. Also the Harbor Freight / Princess Auto Ammo boxes are really low cost and excellent plastic enclosures that have rubber oring seals to be water tight. Hope any of these suggestions help! Thank you for the prompt on a much more accessible method!
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory yes, that's it! ABS sheets. I read a book about practical plastic use and application years ago and I was pulling from memory.
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory I was just looking at the harbor freight cases. I had an idea to get a couple rectangular 40ah batteries and mount them low on the sides of the rack in order to do a long tour without recharge. Over 5,000 watt hours would take me 40 miles and back from the ocean.
Can anyone tell me where I could learn more bout how to build more of my own batteries like this and where to source stuff for the batteries?? Really want to get into it myself
It can be very dangerous. I have tried it done it myself as well accidents still happen burned my hand really hard took months to heal from a short circuit using cheap Chinese bms with common port. Mind you a lot of these "shops" and DIY builders are getting shut down in US by gov and safety commission and or slapped with extremely high fines for altering, modifying or making DIY battery packs like this due to recent fires in NY. Many States are following suit and adopting additional safety standards that prevents you from building your own battery pack leally.
Sort of, check out Endless Sphere for "ATF Geared Hub", you fill the hub with Automatic Transmission Fluid which drastically increases the cooling capacity, though its a bit tough to make sure it doesn't leak out. If you're really willing to dive deep, you could weld the clutch shut and use a regenerative braking capable controller, that way if any fluid does leak out and goes on your rear brake you won't lose your brake (you'll still have the regen). Hopefully we will be doing a video on this! Thanks for the comment :)
@@Luke-ew6uo You can you just have to monitor the heat, most brushless motor controllers can operate any brushless motor (within reason) so it will most likely work but too many amps of current could overheat the motor. Once the motor gets really hot, the magnets desensitize and the motor is rendered useless
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory it would be nice to see an install focused on the wiring. Cutting to fit the bike, looming, soldering new connectors including one towards the hub for easy wheel removal.
I just purchased a 1000watt ebike. I have two 36 volt batteries I know longer use. Any way to combine them to make a larger batter that I could use with my new bike?
Most 1000W ebikes run 48V or 52V. The 36V unfortunately won't be of much use although you COULD combine them together in parallel (charge to same voltage and connect together) and run a high powered step up converter to boost the batteries up to the 48V level. tinyurl.com/8t4vs6p3 I personally WOULD NOT recommend doing this as it would be too much hassle and you'll lose a fair amout of efficiency converting the 36V to a higher voltage (about a 15-20 percent loss right off the bat). You would probably be better off just selling the 36V batteries on Facebook Marketplace / Kijiji / Craigslist etc. And then even buying or building another 48V battery. Hope this helps and thanks for the comment!
Ware level and capacity, internal resistance, charge cycles chemistry cell and behavior will determine the outcome of that endeavor. Not to mention different cell manufacturers dont like to play well together. You can combine the two packs for increased range but not that extra UMPHHH.. most 48v controllers will run on 36v battery packs but will cut out at about half their capacity or so. In a pinch i have used my 36v battery from another bike to use on my 48v bike before. You can combine the 2 battery packs with adapters you can buy online that are built for this specific purpose without rebuilding the packs.
Not recommended unless you have a ton of CPU cooling ceramic cheap paste that has been tossed out by PC repair shop you can dump into it. Using hot glue is the worst possible idea. It will retain heat not transfer it.
I did my 2k 72v and it worked great for hundreds of miles until we rode the beach for two days without ferrofluid in the motor and cooked the windings. So, definitely add ferrofluid if you ride hard
@@paulmryglod4802How hot were those days at the beach when you cooked the motor ? and how long / many hours were you riding? What was brand of hub motor ?
Hi very nice video. Do you know how many amps is rated to give the bms of your battery? I have done the same trick with the shunt and based on your idea of the voltage sag the amps go from about 40 to about 68 amps while my bms rates for only 50 amps!! Is that posible?
Hi there, our BMS was rated at 40A continuous and 60A+ peak. Most BMS units will post their "continuous" current levels, and the peak of cutoff will be 2-3 times that value. DALY BMS for example are about triple (30A BMS will cut out around 90A). Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment :)
Pulling more Amps than rated is unsafe and is not recommended. Most of the heat dissipation tricks used in this video are not generally safe and should not be used for prolonged period of time. Short bursts is fine but not continues throttle use. You will run into heating issue and the controller will most likely overheat and shut down and you have to shut it off and pedal until it cools down.
Yes, to accurately measure you would run a watt meter between the battery and controller, this will at least give accurate info of the power coming out of your battery. After it goes through the controller / motor, it is probably realistically only going to be about 80 percent efficient in terms of pure output power (as would be measured on a dynamometer for example) but its the most practical approach I can think of. Here is an example of what I mean by the watt meter www.amazon.ca/Digital-Meter-Precision-Power-Analyzer/dp/B07V1QF1JW/ref=asc_df_B07V1QF1JW?tag=bingshopdesk-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920843185585&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520390664661&psc=1
@@elias8981 Hi there, we did not use a watt meter but we did measure the voltage sag at peak load prior to modifications and after, and the voltage sag was about double. So you can (roughly) calculate the power that way; V= I R Delta V = Resistance x Current Twice the delta V with resistance of the pack being equal gives about twice the current. Began at 30A peak (according to controller label). Ending up around 60A. Again this is not at all scientific to guestimate like this but at least it gives a pretty good idea. Watt meter is ideal but you'd have to run it to your handlebar to see it while riding or GoPro film it where it is mounted to see the values. Running thick gauge wire to the handlebars is a bit tedious! The display does have a watts output but this only works in pre-modified form. Hope this is of some help! Thanks again for the comment
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory ok so it came from 1440w to 2880w according to your estimates. Pretty impressive ! Can it handle 60amps for a long period or time or only small bursts ? How did the top speed was affected by the mod ? Did you saw some improvement ?
@@elias8981 Top speed not really affected too much, it topped out at about 55km/hr, and it was able to handle the 60amps pretty much as long as I wanted. I went for a few long rides and the controller did not get that warm (surprisingly), the motor started to get warm, but the statorade seemed to have kept it within operating temperature. If the Statorade still wouldn't keep it cool enough, there is still the possibility of adding Hubsinks to the wheel to improve cooling.
So I've got an eBike and I'm unimpressed with the power. Being 6'1 210 shouldn't make it this hard to get a bike over 20mph. It's a 48v 1500w bike and I can't get it over 16mph on flat ground and I'm trying to find content to help me get the speed up (and torque, if possible).
Check if your controller has a speed limiter most likely thats your culprit. If it goes the same speed flat and uphill then its most likely speed limiter on controller. if slower uphill and 16mhp on flat ground then you can increase throughput with mod to get uphill speed to the flat speed if not overloaded
I actually have your 1000w hub kit I bought about a year ago and put about 500 km on it with the standard 15a 48v controller. I assume the hub is the exact same as in the video but the controller that came with the kit can handle 52v and is the same as in this video?
hot glue, silicone glue they all retain and isolate heat they dont transfer it. any kind of glue is bad idea unless its specific Heatsink glue and that is also expensive.
Great to the point easy to understand and well spoken parts are hard to come by dyi is a must here in Hawaii axle snapped ok I’m mechanically inclined called a few shops can’t be much n pretty easy not oh huh I need a new motor n possibly controller why it’s a 1100 w gmac hub motor great motor bad engineering bad place for a hole with wires so sorry ADHD clips like yours is awesome learned stuff I’m gonna implement before putting my hub back together ,mahalo aloha MD
If DIYed probably about $1000 Bike was $197 Cells were 70 cells at $4.50 or $300ish Motor package about $300USD Casing and BMS $100 + Little bits and pieces
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory Thanks for the info. Those are some dang nice specs for that price point. Wish I had the technical ability and the equipment to pull it off.
my battery diacharge says 50A And my controller is stock 35A. If i shunt mod it, and the amperage of the controller ends up higher then the discharge for the battery what will happen? And how do i accurately mod the controller so as to not exceed the discharge limit of battery?
If your BMS has a hard limit for current, then it will just cut out and you could reduce the amount of solder on the shunt until you don't experience cutouts
Constant shut down if your bms is good quality and has temperature sensors other wise your battery will over heat and lithium ion goes up in smoke the kind that even fire department wont touch
Canada is actually 500W, so this is for "experimental" purposes only. But the 500W is actually very VERY loosely regulated. Enforcement looks for a sticker at most, that's really it. There are many electric motorcycles that look like an R6 that roam the streets with 3+kw that never get into trouble with law enforcement, becuase they have that 500w sticker ...
That we did not try! But with a person on it it was surprisingly not too bad. The ideal setup in my opinion would be to run some Maxxis Hookworm tires at about 80 PSI. It just feels like a rock though, but the tires would barely budge, and the traction with those tires is excellent. Thanks for the comment!! :)
Its quite sturdy, I would guess around 300lbs, would probably want to upgrade to wider tires at the higher ends. "I'm a fattie" LOL that's some honesty, but an Ebike is a great way to burn it off! Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
One torque arm isn't gonna work for to long special on an aluminum frame, believe me , even on a steel frame , 48v 1000 w hub , without 4 torque arms, one each side front and back, by by bike frame or front forks , believe me or find out on ur own,
Vbrakes and 3kw, no thanks. Otherwise some good knowledge in this video. Just me personally wouldn't trust them. Like take a typical rider and a bike 100kgs, if you travel 36kmh your travelling with a literal tonne of momentum. I really like the thermal epoxy, I personally just face the mosfets into the wind. That's without the mod, I've modded one but I haven't installed it on the bike as it was just a spare controller.
Initial response: Got this bike for my friend. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ Delivery was fast. And the friend was surprised I would order it when she had never suggested she wanted anything but the pedal bike she had. She has now ridden the bike two times and gives it a 10 and says it is very fun. We have some hills in our town that are very challenging to climb on a typical bike. But tonight she went up with the pedal assist and loved it. I was way behind on my standard bike, huffing and puffing. Now she is no longer lagging behind me. This thing is powerful enough that a person could go around town without any pedaling. She likes to get some exercise so on flat ground she hits the red button to turn off pedal assist and only uses the twist throttle when she's in a tough spot. The bike looks good. It is really a very nice bike for the friend. Now for me, when I get an electric bike, I'm twice her size and will be looking for a bigger watt motor and battery. But this one is just wonderful for my friend. I am happy with this purchase.
Yes, because the controller amperage is low you may want to get some fuses on going from your battery at 30-35 amp to keep it from over heating. As a general rule you can over bolt by 12v safely
I went ahead and shunt modded my 45 amp controller. I turned the display amp limit down to 20 and it is now slightly faster than before the mod. Thank you for the tutorial!
That is awesome!! Nicely done!! 😀👍🚴♀
What was the original display Amp and why turn down the display Amp limit to 20? Because by Shunt Modding the Controller ( making the copper connections inside beefier ) aren't you trying gain speed ?
Absolutely amazing video, watched about 30 ebike videos in the last week and i gotta say, yours i by far the best❤. Straight to the point and with many great tips like the waterproog costing on the motor and the "thermal compound" for the controller with great explanations for why youre doing that👍👍👍👍
Great video man. Thanks for the info. I just replaced the battery,controller,and motor on my 2019 RadCity. Using a 2000 watt motor,40amp controller and 72v battery. I have physical limitations at 50 years old and don't pedal much (throttle only usually) and noticed things getting warm. You provided some possible solutions to make my new upgrades last longer.
Wowzers thats a sweet setup!!
Excellent Video. You should do a fat tire build on a budget. Thank you
So much searching and finally found this, thank you kind sir!... There is a GMAC geared hub by Grin that has regenerative braking. It has a traditional bike axle because the wire goes thru the side. Just getting into the e part of ebikes and it would be cool to see a system built up around that or something like it. Thanks again
Wayne, we will DEFINITELY be doing a build with the GMAC! Very awesome motors, have installed a few and am thoroughly impressed. Stay tuned!! :)
Are you in the US,I couldn't even find someone to put a new bms on my battery let alone what you just did..Great video..
Battery building video would be nice.
Maybe how to match up controllers to battery packs
Well noted! Will definitely be doing those!!!
Thank you, want to diy bike for fun and short errands. Excellent vid.
You're a good man! I have been waiting to see someone talk about this! Show how to do half the job is not cool, show them how to deal with the heat issue after modding IS COOL! Thanks and so everyone understands, DO NOT DO THE CONTROLLER MODE WITHOUT THERMAL EPOXY!!!! I subscribed and you all should too! Just saying.
Awesome, very comprehensive video! I think a lot of people would like to see you upgrade older bikes that are out there on the used market for sale, such as Sondors or Rad Power that may have less than impressive performance. I'd personally like to see how you tackle them. Thanks.
Thank you! We definitely would love to do this! We have a RadRunner on hand as well that we'd love to do this with!
That epoxy idea is something I've never seen and I've been to a bunch of channels I'm digging your content so far man! I'm going to come back on here in a couple months to brag about how I discovered you first! I got my first kit on the way I'm going to throw it on a old trek 900 I'm only going 1000 Watts though. Should be faster than my lectric!
The idea is not new at all its been done for many years in florescent light ballasts they are always filled with heat defusing compounds... also hot glue is a VERY BAD BAD BAD IDEA. It does not transfer energy but rather retains it making it a time bomb for failure. DO not follow this advice you will regret it.
Thank you i did this and my bike is a rocket appreciate you
Thank you!!
Question: is it possible to do a tutorial for making a battery pack in unusual shapes other than easy-to-understand rectangles of straight s/p layout?
Absolutely, we will DEFINITELY be doing one of these!
We will be doing a video showing how to design a custom shaped battery in Onshape (free software). Stay tuned and thank you for watching :D
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory sweeeeeeet!! Once I start having to group my parallel cells in clusters, my brain short circuits to figure out how to make series connections properly.
I'd like to try copper heat sinks and air cooling to see if that might be a good solution to the heat problem.
Super interesting ! What a great video, I've subscribed . This is great information. Thank you
Awesome, thank you!
Love the video man! Good job
Thank you so much! :)
Hi! Thanks you for your video :).. I have a 500W Green Pedel and my rear derailleur collides with the engine when putting it in the highest gear. Does this happen with all Green Pedels? Is there any solution for that?
Yes you'll have to adjust the derailleur, there are two screws (L and H) on the derailleur, you'll have to adjust it so that the derailler can't quite get that far inward and rub against your hub motor. It will be the L adjustment that you need to adjust (Low Gear).
Hope this helps!
My knowledge in electrical is very basic. I’m mechanical minded my question is When u double the current, doesn’t it draw down the battery faster ? Thank you in advance
You're knowledge is correct! Yes doubling the current is definitely much harder on the battery, we recommend having a VERY strong battery in order to handle the power demands. Thank you for the comment!
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory I appreciate your response now my second question is do I need to change the wire on my 250 W brushless motor
What i meant was thicker wire
@@alirezashirazifard8990 most likely it may not make a lot of difference. 250w motors are fairly small and the winding might burn out just as fast as the lead wires you want to replace. so replacing the lead wires may not actually solve a whole lot. Yes you can do that but what this video suggests is usually "ok" to do if you have a Direct Drive motor. not a geared 250w dinky little motor that will have failures in many ways than one.
Great tips, thanks mate!
The Force is strong 💪 in you! Excellent skillset thank you for your knowledge and sharing! This is Expert Build! Not for the beginner! Look at his build! Clean and Streamline! DIY Flawless Build! I would love to see you build Recumbent DIY E Bike Kit 3 or 4 Wheeler’s I know that the ultimate Recumbents. A mid drive powered with Ba Fang M 620
Thank you for the kind words!! 🙂🙂
I would be concerned with heat disappation if you use the varnish water sealer mentioned. Yes, it will keep water from touching the conductors, but it traps heat. I would use a ferrofluid like Grin Tech's "statorade" to help with heat dissapation and then either add a gasket or high temp silicone caulking between the cover and shell to keep water out. That would be the best of both worlds.
We do use ferrofluid and cover it in this video , its great stuff! :)
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory yes, and that's awesome! I was putting it in text in case people were just scanning through the posts. Have you found that the varnish has been also sealing in the heat?
Haven't noticed any negative effects so far the motors have held up really well. It would have to be tested back to back to really be able to come to a conclusion though. I feel like the waterproofing is worth it unless you are right on the edge of burning out your motor but even then a hot motor cooling down draws more water in so tough to say.
Another UA-camr (DrBass) actually paints the side covers black on the inside to "absorb" any radiant heat which is interesting. Another one where you'd probably have to test back to back to know the real results. But very cool regardless !
Thanks for the comment! :D
Great video! and I just sold my ST-50 for my e-bike lol! have a question tho.. I pulled all the screws out of my Chinese Mukkpet 48V controller but I cannot open the case because it seems like its all filled up with a clear hard gell from the factory, 🤷♂have you ever seen this before? or do you have any tips how to open it so I can do the shunt mod? thanks
If it's epoxies then unfortunately shunt modding is going to be near impossible
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory thank you for the reply. I’m not sure if it is epoxy or not, but when I open it up, it’s like a hard gel substance all through it. That sucks. I am having a hard time with this controller. I’ve spent hours online trying to find it online just some variation of a KZQ26 whatever that even means🤷♂️. The bike is a Mukkpet 750 motor is 9 pin, but Controller says RATTAN 48V (Chinese) . Emailed both companies no response @ all. Should I just count my blessings that I’m getting 25 miles an hour being 6 foot 4 250 and just leave it alone? Or perhaps try 52 V battery instead 🤷♂️ anyway thanks just subscribed. 🙏
On a cheap one like that. Yeah not bad to just count your blessings. Thank you for the sub! It is much appreciated! 🙂
Can I use a 52v 50 continuous amp battery for a 48v 1000w motor with a 22a controller?
top voltage on a 48v pack is 52v. so yes that is just fine.
Can I use a 52v 50a (max cont) battery for my 48v 1000w motor with 22a controller without overloading the motor or controller?
What do you recommend for a larger controller like a 60amp? Could i pour it in one go filling it up?
Yeah even in for the 60A controllers I think you could get some incredible performance out of them. Definitely something we want to try out and hopefully will be able to shortly. I think modding a 60A and getting 100+A is doable which ends up getting up there with much more expensive controllers
@ElectricBikeLaboratory I did just that and have the potting ready to go, but I won't start mixing until I bench test everything. I appreciate your channel. I've learned quite a bit.
@ElectricBikeLaboratory update: I shunt modded a 60a 72v paired to a 3.5t 3k 29" wheel. My son at 150lbs went 62mph on a decent Florida downhill. 52 on flat road.
I'm in the process of following all these steps shown in the video on a shunt modded 45a "2000w" 72v kit. I fried the last wheel from the heat riding 30mph on the beach.
Hi I've just come on to your channel I've been looking at another video about the controller it's to solder the two bars to confuse the controller to give it more power have you done upgrade and does it work I've been watch cross wires a guy in America hes built a bike that does 80 mph wivh is impressive
Yes, this is that exact mod in this video
would it not work better if you started with a 2KW hub motor ? I would not use such brakes myself for a bike over 1.5kw.
Hi there, generally 2kW is not an available option for hub motors. It usually goes;
500 -> 750 -> 1000W -> 1500W -> 3000W -> 5000W -> 8000W
And brakes wise, V-Brakes can easily work better than disc brakes given the right setup. The amount of torque that V-Brakes are apply to apply to the wheel compared to disc brakes is pretty staggering when you consider that a disc brake has a 160mm rotor, so the brake pads are only grabbing 160mm away from the center point.
Since Torque = Force x Distance, the distance is quite small on a 160mm rotor. This is why larger discs, such as 180mm and 203mm are used.
V-Brakes on the other hand grab the rim at the distance of the rim, which on a 26'' wheel, is say grabbing around 22'' or 560mm. You can see that the amount of force required for braking power is much less because the distance is so much further.
With a good set of brake pads (KoolStop E-Brake Pads for example), a V-Brake setup can provide excellent stopping force in most conditions.
Something to consider! These brake pads actually stopped the bike very well, and the very large aluminum rim acts way better as a heat sink than a tiny disc.
Ultimately, regenerative braking ends up being an excellent way to beef up braking power, we're aiming to do that in an upcoming video.
Thanks for the comment!
Excellent package... ingenious power upgrade.
Thank you so much !!
Do you know any good ways to make battery cases for lipo4 cells? currently trying to fit 30cells on my back rack 😅😅
3D print? We usually 3D print our custom cases
Without a 3d printer, you can order plastic sheet that can be heat formed, and plastic welded. It's the same plastic you see used for school bus escape hatches, plastic housing for automotive accessories like guage pods and cd player bezels.
It's not polyethylene. Maybe polyester?
@@marthamryglod291 Yes that's an excellent idea. ABS / Acrylic sheets both could work. I believe that ABS can be "melted" together with acetone (nail polish) which is pretty simple.
Also the Harbor Freight / Princess Auto Ammo boxes are really low cost and excellent plastic enclosures that have rubber oring seals to be water tight.
Hope any of these suggestions help! Thank you for the prompt on a much more accessible method!
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory yes, that's it! ABS sheets. I read a book about practical plastic use and application years ago and I was pulling from memory.
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory I was just looking at the harbor freight cases. I had an idea to get a couple rectangular 40ah batteries and mount them low on the sides of the rack in order to do a long tour without recharge. Over 5,000 watt hours would take me 40 miles and back from the ocean.
Can anyone tell me where I could learn more bout how to build more of my own batteries like this and where to source stuff for the batteries?? Really want to get into it myself
We're building a battery course right now! Send us an email to AffordableEBikes@gmail.com and we'll put you on the list! :D
It can be very dangerous. I have tried it done it myself as well accidents still happen burned my hand really hard took months to heal from a short circuit using cheap Chinese bms with common port. Mind you a lot of these "shops" and DIY builders are getting shut down in US by gov and safety commission and or slapped with extremely high fines for altering, modifying or making DIY battery packs like this due to recent fires in NY. Many States are following suit and adopting additional safety standards that prevents you from building your own battery pack leally.
Can this bee done with a bafang 500w geared hub?
Sort of, check out Endless Sphere for "ATF Geared Hub", you fill the hub with Automatic Transmission Fluid which drastically increases the cooling capacity, though its a bit tough to make sure it doesn't leak out. If you're really willing to dive deep, you could weld the clutch shut and use a regenerative braking capable controller, that way if any fluid does leak out and goes on your rear brake you won't lose your brake (you'll still have the regen).
Hopefully we will be doing a video on this!
Thanks for the comment :)
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory question? how do you match a controller with a motor? Like can I put a 30a or 35a controller with a 500w geared hub.
@@Luke-ew6uo You can you just have to monitor the heat, most brushless motor controllers can operate any brushless motor (within reason) so it will most likely work but too many amps of current could overheat the motor. Once the motor gets really hot, the magnets desensitize and the motor is rendered useless
Awesome tips!
Thank you martha! Appreciate the comment! Let us know what you'd like to see! :)
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory it would be nice to see an install focused on the wiring. Cutting to fit the bike, looming, soldering new connectors including one towards the hub for easy wheel removal.
@@marthamryglod291 Awesome, we have one filmed doing this just need to do some editing!
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory woohoo 🙌
I just purchased a 1000watt ebike. I have two 36 volt batteries I know longer use. Any way to combine them to make a larger batter that I could use with my new bike?
Most 1000W ebikes run 48V or 52V. The 36V unfortunately won't be of much use although you COULD combine them together in parallel (charge to same voltage and connect together) and run a high powered step up converter to boost the batteries up to the 48V level.
tinyurl.com/8t4vs6p3
I personally WOULD NOT recommend doing this as it would be too much hassle and you'll lose a fair amout of efficiency converting the 36V to a higher voltage (about a 15-20 percent loss right off the bat).
You would probably be better off just selling the 36V batteries on Facebook Marketplace / Kijiji / Craigslist etc. And then even buying or building another 48V battery.
Hope this helps and thanks for the comment!
Ware level and capacity, internal resistance, charge cycles chemistry cell and behavior will determine the outcome of that endeavor. Not to mention different cell manufacturers dont like to play well together. You can combine the two packs for increased range but not that extra UMPHHH.. most 48v controllers will run on 36v battery packs but will cut out at about half their capacity or so. In a pinch i have used my 36v battery from another bike to use on my 48v bike before. You can combine the 2 battery packs with adapters you can buy online that are built for this specific purpose without rebuilding the packs.
i'd like it if u could do a video showing me how to make my super 73 rx go faster, either by removing the governor or however ?
How fast can yours go right now? I believe theyre rated to do 28mph?
I wonder what would be a more cost effective way to the epoxy. At almost $100 CAD for the bottles, would there be a more cost effective solution?
Low temp hot melt glue is a good secondary option , doesn't have to get too hot to melt it in there and absorbs heat well 👍😁
Not recommended unless you have a ton of CPU cooling ceramic cheap paste that has been tossed out by PC repair shop you can dump into it. Using hot glue is the worst possible idea. It will retain heat not transfer it.
Dos the thermal epoxy also make the controller more water resistant?
Absolutely! Basically makes it submerge-able , totally waterproof!
Noice sir! What is width of your dropouts and hub motor. I want to build on felt faker, but width is only 126mm. Most hub motors are 132+.
This was 135mm
Thanks for the comment!!
I have a 2000w kit with a 45amp controller and 52v battery, will a shunt be a good idea for this? Wondering if it will stress anything too much
I did my 2k 72v and it worked great for hundreds of miles until we rode the beach for two days without ferrofluid in the motor and cooked the windings. So, definitely add ferrofluid if you ride hard
@@paulmryglod4802How hot were those days at the beach when you cooked the motor ? and how long / many hours were you riding? What was brand of hub motor ?
@@connicrow9463 80f, 20 miles or so twice. Nb power brand
Do you have links to the products used in this video?
Hi there,
They are all available from
Www.AffordableEBikes.ca
Hi very nice video. Do you know how many amps is rated to give the bms of your battery? I have done the same trick with the shunt and based on your idea of the voltage sag the amps go from about 40 to about 68 amps while my bms rates for only 50 amps!! Is that posible?
Hi there, our BMS was rated at 40A continuous and 60A+ peak.
Most BMS units will post their "continuous" current levels, and the peak of cutoff will be 2-3 times that value. DALY BMS for example are about triple (30A BMS will cut out around 90A).
Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment :)
Pulling more Amps than rated is unsafe and is not recommended. Most of the heat dissipation tricks used in this video are not generally safe and should not be used for prolonged period of time. Short bursts is fine but not continues throttle use. You will run into heating issue and the controller will most likely overheat and shut down and you have to shut it off and pedal until it cools down.
what did the finished project cost you ? how about some links to the parts you used , thanks
www.AffordableEBikes.com
Thank you!!
Is there a way to mesure accurately the output power after theses mods on the screen or will it show 1000w ? What is the top speed ?
Yes, to accurately measure you would run a watt meter between the battery and controller, this will at least give accurate info of the power coming out of your battery. After it goes through the controller / motor, it is probably realistically only going to be about 80 percent efficient in terms of pure output power (as would be measured on a dynamometer for example) but its the most practical approach I can think of.
Here is an example of what I mean by the watt meter
www.amazon.ca/Digital-Meter-Precision-Power-Analyzer/dp/B07V1QF1JW/ref=asc_df_B07V1QF1JW?tag=bingshopdesk-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79920843185585&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520390664661&psc=1
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory have you already used a watt meter to see how much % did the mod affected the usage ? Is it really 3000w peak ?
@@elias8981 Hi there, we did not use a watt meter but we did measure the voltage sag at peak load prior to modifications and after, and the voltage sag was about double.
So you can (roughly) calculate the power that way;
V= I R
Delta V = Resistance x Current
Twice the delta V with resistance of the pack being equal gives about twice the current.
Began at 30A peak (according to controller label). Ending up around 60A.
Again this is not at all scientific to guestimate like this but at least it gives a pretty good idea. Watt meter is ideal but you'd have to run it to your handlebar to see it while riding or GoPro film it where it is mounted to see the values. Running thick gauge wire to the handlebars is a bit tedious!
The display does have a watts output but this only works in pre-modified form.
Hope this is of some help!
Thanks again for the comment
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory ok so it came from 1440w to 2880w according to your estimates. Pretty impressive ! Can it handle 60amps for a long period or time or only small bursts ? How did the top speed was affected by the mod ? Did you saw some improvement ?
@@elias8981 Top speed not really affected too much, it topped out at about 55km/hr, and it was able to handle the 60amps pretty much as long as I wanted. I went for a few long rides and the controller did not get that warm (surprisingly), the motor started to get warm, but the statorade seemed to have kept it within operating temperature. If the Statorade still wouldn't keep it cool enough, there is still the possibility of adding Hubsinks to the wheel to improve cooling.
So I've got an eBike and I'm unimpressed with the power. Being 6'1 210 shouldn't make it this hard to get a bike over 20mph. It's a 48v 1500w bike and I can't get it over 16mph on flat ground and I'm trying to find content to help me get the speed up (and torque, if possible).
Check if your controller has a speed limiter most likely thats your culprit. If it goes the same speed flat and uphill then its most likely speed limiter on controller. if slower uphill and 16mhp on flat ground then you can increase throughput with mod to get uphill speed to the flat speed if not overloaded
I actually have your 1000w hub kit I bought about a year ago and put about 500 km on it with the standard 15a 48v controller. I assume the hub is the exact same as in the video but the controller that came with the kit can handle 52v and is the same as in this video?
Yes sir!! 🙂
Well done my friend. Thanks for making videos. 😊🌎✨
Thank you for watching!! :)
would normal silicone better than hot glue ?
hot glue, silicone glue they all retain and isolate heat they dont transfer it. any kind of glue is bad idea unless its specific Heatsink glue and that is also expensive.
Great to the point easy to understand and well spoken
parts are hard to come by dyi is a must here in Hawaii axle snapped ok I’m mechanically inclined called a few shops can’t be much n pretty easy not oh huh I need a new motor n possibly controller why it’s a 1100 w gmac hub motor great motor bad engineering bad place for a hole with wires so sorry ADHD clips like yours is awesome learned stuff I’m gonna implement before putting my hub back together ,mahalo aloha MD
I noticed your resistor is not connected, is this also a mod ?
Great eye, it went back on after
How much would a build like this cost, total out the door?
If DIYed probably about $1000
Bike was $197
Cells were 70 cells at $4.50 or $300ish
Motor package about $300USD
Casing and BMS $100
+ Little bits and pieces
@@ElectricBikeLaboratory Thanks for the info. Those are some dang nice specs for that price point. Wish I had the technical ability and the equipment to pull it off.
my battery diacharge says 50A
And my controller is stock 35A.
If i shunt mod it, and the amperage of the controller ends up higher then the discharge for the battery what will happen?
And how do i accurately mod the controller so as to not exceed the discharge limit of battery?
If your BMS has a hard limit for current, then it will just cut out and you could reduce the amount of solder on the shunt until you don't experience cutouts
Constant shut down if your bms is good quality and has temperature sensors other wise your battery will over heat and lithium ion goes up in smoke the kind that even fire department wont touch
The dude abides.
You guys are lucky with ebikes, we are restricted to 250watts in the UK and EU!
Canada is actually 500W, so this is for "experimental" purposes only.
But the 500W is actually very VERY loosely regulated. Enforcement looks for a sticker at most, that's really it. There are many electric motorcycles that look like an R6 that roam the streets with 3+kw that never get into trouble with law enforcement, becuase they have that 500w sticker ...
interested to see what that back tire looks like with someone on it. with those bags full
pancake?
That we did not try! But with a person on it it was surprisingly not too bad. The ideal setup in my opinion would be to run some Maxxis Hookworm tires at about 80 PSI. It just feels like a rock though, but the tires would barely budge, and the traction with those tires is excellent.
Thanks for the comment!! :)
More detail, and slower show battery build please
top speed?
55kmhr
chances of me taking a controler apart are zero to none
Need a new update on this
We've got some ideas in the works :)
What's the weight limit on this bike. I'm a fattie.
Its quite sturdy, I would guess around 300lbs, would probably want to upgrade to wider tires at the higher ends.
"I'm a fattie" LOL that's some honesty, but an Ebike is a great way to burn it off!
Thanks for the comment and have a great day!
What are you waiting for?
Lets see it with fenders and bags
Brother with Christ!
One torque arm isn't gonna work for to long special on an aluminum frame, believe me , even on a steel frame , 48v 1000 w hub , without 4 torque arms, one each side front and back, by by bike frame or front forks , believe me or find out on ur own,
Haven't had issues yet
Vbrakes and 3kw, no thanks. Otherwise some good knowledge in this video. Just me personally wouldn't trust them. Like take a typical rider and a bike 100kgs, if you travel 36kmh your travelling with a literal tonne of momentum. I really like the thermal epoxy, I personally just face the mosfets into the wind. That's without the mod, I've modded one but I haven't installed it on the bike as it was just a spare controller.
No $$$ breakdown guessimates??
Lol hot glue is definitely more economical. That thermal epoxy isn't cheap at all.
Agreed ! Very expensive unless bought in bulk from China which is what we have resorted to
Booooooom
Please take that ring off 🫡
You need disc brakes bike.
1000watt not that powerful
bafang BRAKE push stoping buttoms Ebay REAL CHEAP
Initial response: Got this bike for my friend. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ Delivery was fast. And the friend was surprised I would order it when she had never suggested she wanted anything but the pedal bike she had. She has now ridden the bike two times and gives it a 10 and says it is very fun. We have some hills in our town that are very challenging to climb on a typical bike. But tonight she went up with the pedal assist and loved it. I was way behind on my standard bike, huffing and puffing. Now she is no longer lagging behind me. This thing is powerful enough that a person could go around town without any pedaling. She likes to get some exercise so on flat ground she hits the red button to turn off pedal assist and only uses the twist throttle when she's in a tough spot. The bike looks good. It is really a very nice bike for the friend. Now for me, when I get an electric bike, I'm twice her size and will be looking for a bigger watt motor and battery. But this one is just wonderful for my friend. I am happy with this purchase.
Awesome!
Can I use a 52v 50 continuous amp battery for a 48v 1000w motor with a 22a controller?
Can I use a 52v 50 continuous amp battery for a 48v 1000w motor with a 22a controller?
Can I use a 52v 50 continuous amp battery for a 48v 1000w motor with a 22a controller?
Yes, because the controller amperage is low you may want to get some fuses on going from your battery at 30-35 amp to keep it from over heating. As a general rule you can over bolt by 12v safely
Can I use a 52v 50 continuous amp battery for a 48v 1000w motor with a 22a controller?