Pull Cord Replacement On Briggs & Stratton Snowblower Engine With Riveted Recoil
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 лют 2024
- Pull Cord Replacement On Briggs & Stratton Snowblower Engine With Riveted Recoil
Don’t forget to click the 🔔 to turn on Video Notifications for more money saving videos and tips, featuring all the brands like Stihl, Husky, Husqvarna, Honda, Echo, Kohler, Tecumseh, Dolmar, Makita, Poulan, Ariens, Powermore, Briggs and Stratton, Champion, Murray, John Deere, Craftsman, MTD, AYP, etc.
Check out my new DIY channel here @MadeInMyGarage
If you'd like to become a patron to help this channel grow and get involved with future video ideas, here is the link:
/ donyboy73
Connect with me on these social media spaces (plus that's where I announce contest winners)
Facebook: / donyboy73-the-small-en...
Twitter: / donyboy73
Instagram: / donyboy73
I have easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials "do it yourself" (DIY) videos to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers and zero turn mowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed whacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, zero turn mower, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
I have the largest Small Engine Repair Video Library on UA-cam and the entire internet with over 1200 videos, just GOOGLE "DONYBOY73"!
I want "DON THE SMALL ENGINE DOCTOR" on UA-cam to save you time, frustration and most importantly, MONEY with my HOW-TO videos!
Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, hand tools, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor”, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DONYBOY73 “The Small Engine Doctor".
Tengo tutoriales paso a paso fáciles de seguir y completos, videos de "hágalo usted mismo" (DIY) para ayudarlo con su equipo de jardín y césped roto, incluidos quitanieves y cortadoras de giro cero.
Hago todo lo posible para enseñarle cómo diagnosticar fácilmente problemas de la manera más rápida, rápida y eficiente con reparaciones reales más allá de simplemente reemplazar una bujía. Estos consejos son tanto para el dueño de la casa como para el dueño de la tienda.
Ya sea un motor manual de dos tiempos y dos ciclos como una motosierra, un desmalezador, un desmalezador, una cortadora de hilo, una cortadora de césped, una cortadora de hilo, una cortadora de setos, una podadora, una desbrozadora, un soplador de hojas o unidades de cuatro tiempos y cuatro ciclos como una cortadora de césped, una cortadora de leña, un tractor cortacésped, una cortadora de césped de giro cero, una sopladora de nieve, una lavadora a presión, un generador o una cortadora de césped que necesita que se instalen o reemplacen piezas, soy su persona indicada.
He sido mecánico de motores pequeños durante muchas décadas y también dirijo mi propio taller de reparación, por lo que mis videos están repletos de consejos y trucos que he aprendido y quiero compartir con ustedes. También encontrará muchas revisiones de herramientas y productos de las mejores marcas en mi canal.
#donyboy73 #diy #snowblower - Навчання та стиль
🔻Watch next 🔻
Can I Stop This STIHL 026 Chainsaw From Leaking Bar Oil? Let's Find Out!
➡ua-cam.com/video/1BOqCztHh18/v-deo.html
Thanks to B&S for saving a couple cents by using rivets instead of studs.
That's a lot of extra work to replace a pull cord.
So when you go to buy something with an engine, do you look for a bolt on recoil? Besides, B&S engines from the 1960's to about the 2000's had WELDED ON RECOILS, oh the horror. Pull the entire fan shroud, repair the recoil and put it back together.
@@bobroberts2371 With 4 easily accessible bolts for pulling the shroud you mean ? With this machine it seems a lot more involved. On the other hand if you just use the electric starter, the pull cord never brakes.
Easily drill out and install new rivets or use Rivet nuts and put back together with bolts ???
@@BrainHurricanes Except for the stuck bolt on the snow blower application, pulling the shroud is a non issue. In a mower application it is a good idea to pull the cover from time to time so built up grass can be removed.
Remember, vids like this are to garner clicks from the " They don't make'em like they used to " / " Those cheap B tards " and so on. Think about the number of engines that survive their entire service life without a cord replacement, is it really worth adding bolts to a price sensitive product in the hopes that a small number might need to be removed some day? .
@@bobroberts2371 I'm not dissagreeing with you, it's an easy job for me too, I'm just thinking for non DIY users. Removing 4 bolts is easy and quick, shroud included. If a mechanic has to do this involved job with seized bolts, carb removal, he can charge like 150 to get the thing back up and running. That seems like a lot of money for a snow blower service/repair.
One of the best tips in this was to pull the slack on the recoil to remove the "shock" to the mechanism when pull-starting. The plastic parts EASILY are susceptible to damage, ESPECIALLY in the cold weather.
Let’s give Briggs&Scrap Iron a big hand for their incredible engineering!
😂
OMG...OMG...Don, your timing of this videos could not have been more appropriate for me. I am a former auto tech now in the forklift industry. ...My neighbour asked me to look at his EXACT same engine and problem you described. I was struggling to figure out how it went back together. After seeing your video it made my life a lot easier. Perfect explanation sir.. Well done sir. Much obliged my friend. Keep up the good work bud. 👍👍👍👍❤❤❤
Great job Don! This breed of engine from Briggs & Stratton looks an awful lot like the same group of engines we had so much trouble with back in my day. They kept catching on fire, burning garages down and even a couple houses burned down because of those silly things and that’s just what I knew about from working at Sears. Now I see on the carburetor there was some sort of a spark arrester and that’s gotta be a good thing and that’s probably what they finally figured out how to fix it. Sears and Brigs were running around with their heads cut off and didn’t know what to do about this problem. They were throwing engines out the door left and right on a full warranty. Get them off the Market as fast as they could. Problem was the replacement engine wasn’t any better. Finally, we caught a break and you probably won’t believe this hell I wouldn’t, but yours truly was the first one that I know of what they said that actually seen one catch on fire in the wild. I happened to be working on their bigger model. I think it was 10 hp or bigger and I had previously been running it after a belt adjustment. I had just buttoned it up with putting the cowling and everything back on and I was right beside the machine. I heard a slight pop like a miniature backfire. At first I didn’t realize, but shortly realized machine was on fire I quickly throw off the top cowling around the carburetor, hit it with a fire extinguisher. From there we put it together that fancy cowling had changed the air fuel mixture to the point they created the dangerous situation. This slight backfire was enough to light it on fire and there was plenty of fuel to keep on burning in the carburetor. So they flew me around made me feel kind of important for a while. Long story short however, I didn’t really get any recognition for the whole thing. I think I had mumbled something to my boss about that. He said he was paying me plenty good and that was it, we weren’t union but we were making union wages in the Boston area. Best and worst job I ever ever had. Over 60 hours a week, working outside even all winter made me a small fortune, but ruined my health.
A useful hint when using a torch to heat up the aluminium block to remove bolts, get a sharpie or any other solvent pen in black, and heat until the colour disappears, you have now reached the maximum temperature without damaging the aluminium casting.
Holy crap, Dony! All that work to replace a pull cord. Remind me never to buy power equipment with a B&S engine!!
The pull cord broke on my Yard Machine snowblower a month ago. I decided to buy the recoil assy minus the handle. I only had to swap the handle over. And, thankfully, it's a Tecumseh engine. Meaning, the recoil assy is attached by four studs. I just had to remove the four nuts, remove the old recoil, install the new recoil, and tighten the nuts. Time-wise, it took less than ten minutes. I do enjoy watching your videos. They are very thorough as you go through various repair/replace procedures.
I just went through this with the same Briggs & Stratton engine on my generator. I drilled out the rivets, made sure I got the back end of them out by removing the cowling / shroud. Instead of putting rivets back on, I found some short screws / bolts that fit the cowling holes for the recoil but do not come in contact with the cooling fins. I then tightened them down, and it’s been much better and doesn’t rattle like worn out rivets do.
Any chance you would know the size of the screws/bolts and length you used?
That would be a game changer!!!
Thanks for the tip on setting the pull to engage the engine before simply pulling on the pull cord while there's still slack and also using the electric start. Your not being lazy your being frugal . Plus being patient and taking the time to heat a stubborn bolt and gradually loosening it from its position not just twisting it off. Then regretting your actions.
Never worked on a snow blower...but I learn alott from Donyboy
Great video. I remember a similar problem years ago with a Yard Man snowblower. I think I just wound up shortening the cord and used the electric start more often. That was an excellent unit. Bought it new in the mid 1990’s and used it 20 years or more. Carburetor leaked, tires went flat but I kept patching it together. Finally the auger housing rusted out and I decided it’s time for a new one. It still ran well though. I might still be using it if I had taken more care storing it in the offseason. Keep your equipment off the ground to keep it dry and it lasts a lot longer. Thanks for your videos!
That tip about losing the end of rivets is gold. Aluminum rivets would have been a better choice so the magnets of the magneto can't snag them. But manufacturers won't be looking so far ahead, ha ha.
They still have a steel pin, don't they ? 🤔
@@marcmyers1465 That's a good question, I'll have to check.
@@marcmyers1465 some do, sometimes I get machines where customers have drilled out rivets and installed steel ones!
Wow what a PIA job.
Just some advice about stuck bolts (how I do it):
I have an adjustable Impact wrench and I adjust it to a low setting and I work the bolt both directions for a long time. The bolts very rarely snap.
I have a hand impact that I hit with a hammer.
Can't believe how many Friday's I have spent with you Dony...great content as usual
Awesome Don Cheers !
As Always.Thank,s for putting Safety First
Another awesome video from Donyboy, thanks for sharing your incredible experience in your UA-cam videos Dony. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks. This was good information.
Another trick for stuck hardware is try to tighten it a bit more while fully seated then back off. Apply anti seize to hardware prior to re-installation.
Sound advice , thank you I always stop here and learn a thing or two cause you never know when it will happen to you👍
This is perfect timing video for me, I was just looking at how frayed my machine's cord is.
Thanks Donny
Awesome Don, another healthy dose of experience, judgment, and wisdom.
Can't say the same thing about the Briggs designers that saved 2 cents by going with rivets.
Oh well.....
You make it look so easy as usual Thank again from Alaska Great job
8:33 Great clip as usual, believe I would of taken a picture of that label BEFORE I put the heat to it
Actually that label is not important, the Model and Serial are etched on the valve cover.
I can remember drilling out riveted recoil housings on B&S engines back in the 90s. Sometimes there would be shipping damage to the housing, requiring its replacement. B&S even included 4 small bolts and nuts in the recoil housing kit to replace the rivets. We always removed the blower housing first, of course.
Smash that 👍 button, show dony some love everyone. Dont cost a penny
Hay man great job cheers 🍻
Gotta love that Stens pull cord! It's all I use now, I find it holds up for a very long time. I find it stronger in the smaller sizes.
I noticed it is no longer made in Germany and more expensive here now! Hopefully it's as good as it was!
@@donyboy73 I bought all the different sizes a years back on sale so I haven't had to buy it lately. I hope it is still the same quality when I need more. I love that stuff. I even made a snowboard leash with it because it's that strong.
Some great takeaways as usual Donyboy. Many thanks.
The latest way to remove stubborn bolts is an electric induction heater.
Had to do this several times 😮. Thanks for sharing this with us. Good tips.
Nice! A lot of work but we can do it ourselves. Donny saves us money again!
Right on
Great info on a common problem for snowblowers/lawnmowers, thanks Don for sharing your expertise.
I always use anti-seize putting bolts back in. Corrosion is not your only enemy, galling caused by the bolts not being the same metal as the aluminum block can occur much quicker than corrosion.
The build quality or lack of in those engines is shocking. I'm surprsied they last more than a season, Toatl junk. But thanks for the upload Dony, the bolt removal was cool.
Good video, thanks....not a big deal but would you consider cutting the wire and installing a new connector instead of letting the wire melt?
You could if you want to
Thanks for the reply.....I'm sure this video will save me time and money some day
When I have a stubborn bolt I alternate penetrating spray & heat it works 80% of the time.
Thanks for sharing good fix great channel
Great tips. I would have drilled without thinking about the possible consequences of the rivet shrapnel harming the magnets. The Briggs engines have been cheaper down to an unacceptable level. Sad. That one has 16 years on it, though. May be a new world record!
What a nightmare. Awesome job on removing the bolt. Great video.
I’ve had to do the same thing in -40C outside. You wanna talk about nightmares?!!!
Awesome video mate
Once cowl is off, can you drill out the rivets then use short sheet metal screws? Is there enough room on the back side for a screw?
I had exactly the same question. It would make it easier the next time around.
You could try it!
Good information mate ...
Nicely done, thank you.
Excellent information, thanks for sharing your videos. 👍
Great video. Love the tip at the end!
Good work, doin it the right way. Surely Briggs could have designed that cover a little better for easier removal. Sure hope their is another ID tag somewhere on the engine, the label got burned/melted a bit.
Thaanks Don!!! Not an easy repair for the DIYer but you gave plenty of good tips and preventative advice. I still have trouble with the rewinding the starter rope. Takes me a while but get it done. Need more practice!!! Great filimg also!!!😀
Tanks Don.. great info ...
Tap on the bolt after you heat it up. Silver never seize to reassemble
Thanks Dony
Another excellent video Don. Makes me wonder why Briggs would use rivets in the first place. The older Briggs were built a lot better than the newer ones.
It's all about $. Rivets are quicker when assembling on the line.They don't care about future servicing.
" Older " B&S engines has WELDED ON recoils ( like from the 1960's to 2000's ) oh the horror. . . .
Great video 👍
Once again super video.
The thumbscrews that hold the cover down by the choke can be a pain. Mine never seized, but they did back themselves out while running. I just replaced them with screws because you can easily tighten them and they are much cheaper to replace.
14:44 Donyboy hits the vape pen.
Haha lol, don't breath in that crap!
February, & no snow ❄ ❄ here in Michigan ! 🤨
Same here, barely any snow!
Good info😊
Thank you for this instructional video. "2 thumbs up for you!"
2 thumbs down for Briggs and Stratton design with rivets instead of bolts.
I will give it try. 🤞
Excellent video...nice job...🖖
Any reason why you would not use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench on the stuck bolt?
It doesn't really matter
Great video and tips. Great tip on catching the recoil before pulling. While hearing bolts I will also use a spray lube.
@donyboy73, I’ve been watching your channel off & on for many years. I remember when you would get Tecumseh snowblower engines that were blown. We don’t have those problems here in the lower states with those or the B&S engines unless they are the Briggs & Stratton’s that do not have low oil shut off switches (my B&S generator engine does) and people forget to check the oil. I’ve had quite a few Briggs & Stratton engines, old and new, and have never had one blow on me because I take care of them and we don’t have snow like you guys in North Carolina. These B&S engines along with the 10 hp and 8 hp Tecumseh’s (when they were still around) were used on a white variety of lawn and garden equipment and ran fine as long as they had oil and were maintained. To be honest, I used to hate to Tecumseh engines. However, I have one on another generator that I have, and it’s a flathead with a small muffler, typical of Tecumseh. However, one thing I can say about them is, they built their engines, almost entirely out of metal, even the recoil paws.
Yes the Tecumseh were built in USA and as long as they didn't over-rev they were much better than the new chinesium!
Thanks for this great learning experience. Just wondering why you didn't use anti-seize on the cowling bolts since one was frozen in.
FYI you can buy what's called a blind rivet which don't have the long tail piece that snaps off.
Salut Donald, j'ai rencontré le même problème avec certains modèles de tondeuses Lawn-Boy. J'ai utilisé la même procédure que toi pour retirer le lanceur mais j'en ai profité pour remplacer les rivets par des "rivet-nuts". Amitiés !
Great video dony! As always. My recoil stays out about and inch or two sometimes but it does work.
i tried the bag technique on my snow series but it has that fuel guage built into the cap. Its a 14.50ft lb torque 305cc snow series briggs from 2009 Then of course the guage fills up with gas lol Wish i knew the part number for a regular cap.
is there a way you could replace the rivet once you have the cowling removed, like installing threaded inserts and using cap screws?
Yes absolutely, most customers don't want to spend the extra $10!
could have put a heat shield tins to preserve the serial number label and the ground wire insulation, also some penetration oil around the bolt and let it penetrate as the bolt turns a bit
Model and serial numbers are etched on valve cover.
When i bought my 14527 sb ls husqvarna snowblower that the 305cc snow series engine is on, Friend of mine had it and there was no wiring for the light or the heated grips so i had to buy the molex connectors with .083 male and female pins and i rewired all of it. Black wire on stator went to the light and the grips hook to the red wire with the diode. They wanted 68 bucks for the harness if you get lucky to find one. Hopefully this helps someone in the future if they run into this issue. Thanks for all the great content dony. fixed it for pratically nothing just some wire and a 10 dollar connector kit from molex
Also I had to add a fuel filter as well as a fuel shut off because it wasn't there from the factory and I used donys video when I did that install and it helped tremendously. Mine had that plastic cap covering the keyed hole where the shut off is suppose to be.
i've never tried it in this situation , but wondering if the shake and break tool might work on the stuck bolt , since it appeared to have the flange head (if it didn't have flange head you could partially fill socket with washers) . hammering on a bolt in aluminum sometimes helps , and this tool hammers continuously .
Thanks, great video. Bummer there's no good way to get the rivets out without that risk. I am surprised you didn't drill them out after going through all the trouble of taking the cover off and replace them with self-tappers so if/when the cord breaks again (or pull mechanism has a problem), it's an easy disassembly.
Any reason you didn't use anti-seize on the bolts holding the cover, vs. just penetrant/lubricant?
Side note, when I have bolts like that that are likely to seize in future (mainly on outboards but even worse corrosion, especially near salt water), I replace the bolts with grade 8 bolts. Generally they seem less likely to corrode at all, and they will NOT break when you have to remove them 'cause they're so hard. Not expensive for future-proofing work on them.
What is the "Stick" Anti-Sieze you were using in this typically great tutorial? You continue to be the Professor!
Loctite 37617 Silver-Grade Anti-Seize Stick - 20 g
Thanks.Getting some.
Just use grease. Never understood why another product that does the exact same thing.
That rope looks like para cord. Is it possible to use para cord? Could be cheaper... Great video as always 👍
Would be a good time when all the assembly is taken out to replace the rivets for screws and nuts? I had to replace the nylon pawl-ratchet in the assembly on my snowblower, same rivet problem, had to dismount all the assembly as you did. Not funny. But I had one of your previous video to guide me, thanks !
Yes you could!
Nice job Don! Looks like that blower isn't being looked after very well, never saw so much dried powder salt on one before. Customer doesn't know about caring for it.
I have been afraid to put heat on the block in the past but looks like it doesnt hurt. But once the seized bolt starts to move and squeak i always spray it with loosening oil, but maybe it's best to keep the heat on it. Also once i get the cover off i drill out the rivets and put in bolts to make it easier.
Those briggs aren't as easy to work on as the tecumseh ones, are they.
Thanks
Any reason you wouldn't drill out the rivets and replace them with bolts when putting it back together?
whenever I do this job after fitting the recoil starter rope I pull the rope out fully to be sure the recoil starter spring does not fully bind otherwise it could snap the recoil starter spring. but thanks for the video.😁
Yes exactly, if over wound the spring gets to tight and breaks or dislodges from cowling between rope rotor.
Yet another reason the once great briggs has become a failed company.
It's super sad. I would make sure anything I would buy would have a briggs engine years ago, now I wanna run from them
Rivets on recoils of Briggs & Stratton engines is nothing new. I have Briggs & Sratton Quantum engines from 1999 and 2004 which are some of their best motors and they have riveted recoils. I saw where @donyboy73 had the camera zoomed in on the bolt hole that was hard to loosen, and I saw the manufacture date of the one he’s working on.. This engine was manufactured in 2008. It’s going on 16 years old guys. I do see where he hast to fix a lot of blown engines on these snowblowers. I take it that the extreme weather that you guys have in Canada is extra hard on engines. @donyboy73, I’ve been watching your channel off & on for many years. I remember when you would get Tecumseh snowblower engines that were blown. We don’t have those problems here in the lower states with those engines unless they are the Briggs & Stratton’s that do not have low oil shut off switches (my B&S generator engine does) and people forget to check the oil.
Some of the Chinese clones are better.
Bugs and Straddle now
I've done a lot of recoil roping and I always cock those return springs until they stop or get tight then back it down to the thru hole 🕳️ Great instructional video as usual 👍
This is quite a job how much would you charge for this just was curious thanks again Kyle
The rivets stick to a magnet? I always thought they were aluminium!
So what year did they start making all these hard to work on engines
Looks like it got salted. Miss used. St.Paul,Minnesota.
That bolt was REALLY STUBBORN! What a PITA. You put some spray lube (or whatever) in the bolt holes. Would anti-seize not be better? Or maybe run a tap through the bolt hole threads to get rid of the rust first, blow them out with compressed air, and then apply the spray or anti-seize? The bolt threads could also be cleaned while they're out with a Dremel Tool wire wheel or a wire brush. Either that or new bolts installed. Whaddaya think?
👍👍👍.Thanks Donny
Biggest thing is with these engines make sure you dont over rev them. They dont like that at all. Definitely check these with a tachometer i would not go any higher than 3600 no load at max rpm
This reminds me... I have an old Briggs powered generator with a missing recoil (same style as this). Can replacements be found or am I going to keep looking for a used one?
The PO was using it with a drill and socket most likely. It's also missing a couple engine mount bushings but I can order those from McMaster-Carr (just never got to it).
Look it up with model serial numbers on partstree
Great video. Thanks. Hey Donnie I would like to ask you a question. Do you and / or have you ever put sparkplug thread inserts into chainsaws?? I've never had much luck and they won't hold pressure. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Love your videos.
No I haven't had to do that. Possibly with a heli coil it would allow a good seal from the plug itself.
Le propriétaire de cette souffleuse doit vivre dans une mine de sel! Tout a l'air tellement corrodé. La preuve qu'il faut bien prendre de nos machines dans un environnement difficile.
I'm VERY surprised you didn't drill out the rivits while you had it off & used bolts in their place
I was wondering if once you got it off, would you be able to drill the rivets and just use some "U" nuts and screws in place of the rivets? I haven't done one yet, but was thinking atleast for next time might be a quicker option. Good job Don!
Yes you could. Also welding small nuts behind would also work.
@@donyboy73 I actually thought about that also. Definitely a good idea and would be the way I would probably do it!
What are your thoughts on using Sea Foam Deep Creep plus heat on stuck fasteners?
As effective as pissing in your cup of coffay.
I do use it because I believe there is wax in it and it does creep in when bolts or nuts heated.
Why not put a little anti seize one the bolts?
The lube I sprayed will do the trick but anti-seize is better.
I noticed you didn’t use any penetrating oil while trying to remove the frozen bolt. Why did you decide not to? No anti seize on the shroud bolts? Mowerz and Blowerz. Thank you
I didn't want to fill up the shop with smoke.
hey, I had a question concerning 2 stroke oil I currently have 2 Stihl fs85, Stihl fs131 and a Stihl fs450 can I use the normal Stihl hp oil on all of them as I've seen many videos bad talking hp ultra. what 2 stroke oil do you recommend for longest life of my equipment. Thank you in advance, love the content.
Loll NO SENS to have removing all that stuff to do a supposed simple job😅
Always been hesitant n get back when saw this type of engine on a machine, now I'm more sure why, TECUMSEH FOREVER IMO (4 bolts to remove in this case !!!
Tnx Don to bring us to realize,,, again !
After the cowl is off,then drill the rivets, for next time
Donny. I have watched every single one of your videos I have a similar snowblower I remember you mentioned the number 5 rope but that’s not my concern my question is when the assembly for the rope is removed would we be able to use a riv nut setting tool so now we can install bolts and never have to go through all that nonsense that briggs did. And I’m sure it will work can you do a video with that same coil only using a riv nut and have the part numbers if we re replace the coil or install a new chord with the paws.
I know you have the knowledge