Just finished fixing the PRND321 gear indicator on my 04 Yukon. Only found one of the seven resistors loose. Re-soldering that didn't completely fix it; had to re-solder all seven resistors. THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO.
Great video, just what I was looking for. My shifter display was dim and I wasn't sure what resistors controlled it. Thanks for taking the time to share.
By far the best instructions on the project, getting the needles off stopped me, also on the prnd. until your video, it felt like I was going too brake the needles if I pried any harder. thank you
Excellent instructional video. I replaced all 6 steppers as well as 6 LEDs. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain the process. You are an asset to the youtube community.
You did a brilliant job then ;) Make sure the pins in your connector are all nice and tight as well, it's easily missed and I didn't put it in the video
Thanks for the video! My PRNDL has been very dim for a long time. I had already replaced a couple stepper motors and a bunch of bulbs that were burned out. Finally got around to doing this and your video helped greatly. So now my PRNDL looks so bright and my DIC looks a little dim. Its still very visible but not bright like I see others in videos. Figure I'm way ahead of the game doing all these fixes myself so can't complain.
my 2004 chevy suburban PRND321 light's gone....looked at the solder sites of those 7 resistors, looks fine, soldered them anyway per your advice.... and it works!!! light backs on....thank you very much.....you're a big help
Thanks so much... My gear shift indicator wasn't showing.. So I followed your steps then I put it back in my truck and now it works..YOU ARE AWESOME..My Truck is a GMC Sierra 2003
This video looks easy. I've been planning to fix my cluster for a while. I checked on Amazon and seen the repair kit along with the solder. Thanks for the video I will be looking forward to fix my cluster.
I’m a couple years late but thank you for the video. I had replaced the fuel and speedo stepper motors but a year later the cluster was having dimming and turning off issues. I narrowed it down to the pigtail if I’d flex or push it in it would ok. Today I re-soldered the resistors that you did and wallah working fine now.
I used this video to fix my speedometer and my gear shift indicator. Replaced stepper rmotors with updated version. Resoldering the resistors that he did in the video fixed my gear selector that did not light up...A 100% fix for me :)
I want to say 1000x thanks for this. I had the super dim PRND21 and erratic fuel and temp readouts. I followed your video but made a few changes perhaps some can try before soldering. Hopefully this comment will stay near the top for others to see. Now the dim PRND21 issue with the resistors is unavoidable to have to solder, and I had to solder mine, but the steppers MIGHT not need to be replaced. Instead I tore down the unit as described in the video and sprayed "Kent Automotive -Super slick Dry Lube P50077" down the shafts of the steppers once the needles(important and the template/face)were removed. I let the lube creep/penetrate over dinner. Afterwards I put a needle on each stepper and worked them gently back and forth not forcing them. After 10/20 cycles back and forth the nasty crunchy grinding feels like brand new. After reassembly everything works perfectly. As mentioned above tear your unit right down. dont leave the faceplate on after taking off needles to spray the lube. it will etch/stain your display.
+PhekQ2 let us know if it last or not. I paid very little for the stepper motor so I went ahead and replaced them. I DID have a feeling it might just be old grease gumming them up but I didnt push farther as I wanted to complete the repair and video.
Great video. Used the same basic technique on my 2004 GMC Envoy to fix the digital odometer display. I also recommend applying dielectric grease to the modular connector pins before re-installing the unit into the dashboard. Thank you Viekra!
Nice job. I hardly use any dielectric grease. When I find corroded terminal it's usually du to a bad weatherpack connector that I replace.What I didnt show is I did tighten all the pins in the connector though , just in case. Thanks for watching, and you can always send me the money you saved or a tip ;)
This is a great video! Dealer wanted $500 to fix lights and shift indicator on 2003 GMC Yukon. I did it in about 1 1/2 hours start to finish. Would have taken much longer if not for this video. Thanks for your efforts and great video.
thank you for taking the time to put this excellent video out. i never would've have figured out which resistors needed soldering did it last night and it worked
Great, no one had those addressed and pointed out so I made a video about it. Im glad it helped so many, and the good comment of yours made my day. Thought about subscribing? Always fixing car stuffs like this
This re-soldering of the resistors is just what was needed to bring back to life the shift indicator light assembly on this 2005 Chevy 4x4 of my friends daughter's that I worked on today. I used my Tenma Digital 21-1590 soldering station and set the tip for 700 degrees and they soldered perfectly with no movement whatsoever. Beats replacing the dashboard assembly and it works great.
Veikra, thanks, this worked great! For others: my symptom was a dim PRND321 display in a 2003 Silverado. It resembled having a burnt out backlight. Resoldering the 7 resistors as Veikra shows fixed it. The needles are a "friction fit", very smooth. One mistake to avoid--I put the surround on before checking the position of the needles, pinching one that was pointing down; I had to remove the surround again to free it. If you can't see really small things anymore due to age, make sure you have a loop or magnifying glass handy to check your solders. These are surface mount resistors, totally flat and small. Thanks again!
You are right, you have to admit the resistor's solder looks pretty fine, yet they really are the problem. Glad it helped, I also have a video to fix seatbelts that do not retract anymore, so if it happens on your truck, dont buy another, watch my videos and fix it
Veikra Hi Veikra. Thanks for your quick response. After dark I realized my speedometer lights no longer work. I started to remove the gauge cluster to check the resistors again, and the right side of the speedometer became illuminated upon loosening the bolts. Do you know if any of the 7 resistors are for speedometer lights? I should have checked them all with an ohmmeter I guess.
you mean the lights for the backlight? The 7 resistor in the video are strickly for the 7 segment display of the PRND321. Some lights for backlight have sockets, some are soldered. It depends on the year. Pretty sure they are soldered in yours. Touch up the solders of the lights themselves
Very helpful, thank you. I saw another one supposedly for my year/model but the circuit board came out differently. This one showed how to remove the pointers on the gauges very well. Good job!
Thanks for the video, I just fixed my 2003 silverado, with your help. I bought the kit from Amazon, it comes with everything you need to do the job. God bless you
Yes they have nice kits now. This video is 7 years old and I still have the truck, still a very bright prndl321 so it will last if done correctly. Happy driving !
+Veikra Ok I have a different problem now and wondered if you have knowledge on repairing it. There are 6 bulbs behind the climate control knobs (function selector and fan speed). They are labeled DS1, DS2, DS3, DS6, DS7 and DS8. DS4 and DS5 are for the temp sliders and work. DS3 and DS8 work but the others do not. Same truck and I totally understand if you haven't worked on this part. Thank you so much!
+drchris75169 I actually have a video on the climate control bulbs. Except I dont have the same climate control as yours. Mines is the automatic control. No slides, but temp dials on both sides and lcd in the middle . I replaced all the lights in mine on the video and used cheap led and resistors, soldered straight on the board. It lights up bluish instead of weird yellow when you remove the green cap of the incadescent bulbs. If I recall correctly your units has 2 style of bulbs, so research them correctly. Mine only had small 7219 t-1 wire terminal bulb. I modified some 3 mm leds instead. I did tge 4x4 switch as well
the resistors on my board all looked visually fine but I figured I had gotten that far I should probably try and resolder them anyways. Happy to report problem is solved. Thanks! Now if I could only figure out my power window wonkyness.
Awesome ! Knowing it helped someone make it all worthwhile to record vids for youtubers/dailymotioners If you like my repairs you may want to subcribe, it's free :)
Did you use flux or just add solder to each resistor? I replaced all my cluster bulbs and added some solder to one of the resistors not thinking they all needed redone. It lights up very dim so i'm assuming I need to hit them all.
Yes, to light up the PRND321 you have to do them all. Reheat all of them, flux is always better it helps distribute the heat faster. I did add a tiny bit of solder to both side of each resistor.
Just resoldered boths sides on all, but the solder has flux in it. My mirror temp display went dim when it got cold so I wonder if it also has some resistors that need reflowed..
Thanks for your replys. I tried some flux but for some reason the solder did not want to stick to it, I'll also admit that my soldering skills are very minimal. I was able to get solder on all resistors and It lit up nice and bright although the solder looks like crap.
Eric Harrold You cannot get better if you dont practice. No one can see those solder joints and your dash is fixed. :) That being said, a good iron with variable temperature goes a long way
Finally someone explained the PRNDL light. I did it and it worked. Only think now is, only the back lights and the check engine light only come on until I turn over the motor. Is there something I messed up on? Also, if you can explain the outside temp gauge on the inside rear view mirror, that would be great. Mine doesn't come on anymore
I think you may have some slack contacts in the connector behind the cluster, an playing with it made the issue pop up. I'd suggest taking a small pick and making the tabs in the connector tight again. It'll only take a few minutes. As for the mirror, is it only the temperature which doesnt display or the whole screen doesnt show anything. No compass No temp?
Veikra can you make a video or explain what do you mean by tighten up the tap connectors again. Because the issue I'm having is that my cluster turns off when it wants to and on when it wants to and sometimes when I have the key off I see the informational screen illuminate I don't know if it's the circuit board or if it's the connector on the back of the cluster, any information will help thank you
Yes look for cold solder joints,and the solder will look dull grey and not shiny like it should be,,,You can buy the the whole kit on ebay which comes with the solder gun,and the resisters complete with enough motors to replace them all,which you should do because the others will go bad down the road.
Hi, I replaced my motors and replaced the bulbs with LEDs, and they all work great... Now my problem is the turn signal indicators don't work.. The outside lights flash, but the dash lights don't flash.. Any Idea??
You might have put the LED backward if you replace the bulb. LED don't work backward. Otherwise check for bad solder joints, Obviously only the bulb in the cluster doesnt light up. Tighten up the pins in the connector coming out of the dash as well. Very important
Great video, I did this exactly like you showed and it fixed my problem. In the meantime however I lost two backlights behing my speedo and tach. I saw the small bulbs that were soldered in, do you know how to replace those bulbs or do you have any ideas on what else it may be? they worked before I pulled the dash
those bulb are incandescent, some of mine are burnt as well. You have to unsolder them and solder new in. It's the cheapest to try first before looking elsewhere. They all burn up eventually
Thx for the reply. I found a service that says he can repair the "odometer error" and my cluster will have the mileage that is in the cluster at the time of the failure. Which means the mileage will be close but not perfect. As the cluster has had this error for about 6 months.
Hi Veikra, Very nice video, my odometer is out all together and my PRNDL was very dim, this fixed my PRNDL and is nice and bright. Do you happen to know which items to solder to get the Odometer working again? All the solder joints looks good that I could see on everything. Thanks!
They may look good to the naked eyes. Touch them up anyways. I didnt mess with the larger vacuum display for the info center and odometer though, so I don't know exactly where all the guts for it are
Great video, my PRDN123 had been dim for 2 years...Now works, however my soldering was sketchy, going back in to clean up...and replace bulbs. What Flux did you use? THANKS!!!
I don't have the board right in front of me but i've seen the pins of the big connector having cracked solder joint causing it. Try to touch them up with new solder.
Great Video - It worked then failed. Some horizontal lines appeared then the display went dark. I am wondering what went wrong. Any comments or advise would be appreciated. Again, the procedure worked and it was very bright, then it failed within 5 mins. Thanks
I replaced the step motors on my 03 yukon. when I plugged panel up everything worked except the gauges. I then pressed the plug in harder and the gauges powered up. After about a day the gauges started intermittently coming on and off until they finally quitting altogether. I removed the dash panel and wiggled each individual wire but nothing happened. The way I got it to work again was to push and pull on the connector hard enough to flex the board. When I do this the gauges will power up occasionally but they will eventually quit again. The puzzling thing is that I do not have to hit a bump for the gauges to quit. They will power on and off regardless road conditions. Any ideas as to where the short could be?? Have you experienced anything like this? Thanks in advance.
My PRNDL321 would do that when I'd press the connector. You should reflow the solder on all the pins of the connector first, and ice pick the other side of the connector coming out of the dash to tighten the female pins in it
They dont exactly raise back up to zero if you put them all the way down. They need to be slightly up from the stopper . When you turn the truck on they need to go to zero. Found it was possible for the transmission temperature gauge to be put too low and reading low the first time around. Used scan gauge to find the right spot again. I guess im a perfectionnist
I was able to fix the p rnd321 display on mine. But the information display went darker afterwords. Is there a resistor or something with the power supply causing the change? I only reflowed the resisters that were the same as the ones in your video.
@@Nordic_Mechanic it's still working and I can still read it. So I'm going to live with it the way it is. Don't think I could solder all those tiny connections.
Thx again for responding. You got me inspired and I bought your suggested white led's. I assume I will need resistors as led's are 5mm~3.3V vs. 12V. I have the full cluster which I think are 9 or 12 bulbs. Should I buy 470ohm or 560 ohm resistors for each bulb or something else? I assume I will not be using blue plastic holder or should I? Thanks again. Anxious to get to it before it gets really cold and I snap some brittle dash component. Thanks Veikra
Leds are not driven by voltage but current. It depends on the current for those Leds. From the datasheet youll get the current, then you do ohms law to find a resistor. Keep in mind the system voltage is not 12V but 14.3V . Or youll be one of these guys complaining that leds dont work. You can't easily use the holders since you need to solder the resistors. Helpful tip. If you sand the dome of the leds flat such as I did for my heater control, you'll get more diffused light and less hotspots. Also, you can add more leds that there were bulbs, for an more even light throughout the cluster
When the cluster would fail,would your vehicle start and when the oil gauge didn't work would you be stuck in park and not be able to backup or go forward?
no the cluster is only a display and does not intervene with any functions. You can remove the whole cluster and your truck will still work and count mileage and all that.
Hi Viekra, thanks for the video, changed 4 motors and 3 bulbs everything is fine except for the speedo gage. replaced that motor with 2 others thinking is was defective, they all can't be bad, what else can I check?
Alex Keevan You can check the pins in the connector behind the dash. They sometimes get slack and could be an issue. Also check the solder on the pins on the cluster itself. Does your odometer work and count the km/miles ?
then if it's really not the steeper then there's something wrong with the microcontroller driving it, or between microcontroller and the pins of the stepper motor. This would need more on hand diagnosis
Dont bring to a dealer, they wont fix theyll charge you big bucks for a new one. They are specialized cluster repair services you can contract for it. They were roughly 200$ when I made this video. No idea now
Hi Veikra, I have learned some additional information I thought I would share and seek your opinion. I was in an electronics store and read a pkg. of 5 and 3mm, 20mA which indicated if board was supplying 9 volts then use 1/4watts, 1K resistors and hook resistors to negative terminal. Completely opposite to what I have read. Most have connected resistor to positive side. If 12 volts supply then I think the pkg indicated 1/4 watt 680 resistor. Any thoughts? I just attached one of led's without resistor to a 9 volt battery to see brightness and at 1st it was bright then within 3 seconds the brightness dropped. I know it was a 3.3 volt led. Not sure if I've screwed up this led since I did not attach a resistor. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
you can connect the resistor on either side, doesnt matter. Leds are driven by current. You blew up that led and put unlimited current through it when you connected it directly. You have to divide the volts by the current you want and it will give you the amount of ohms you need in the resistor. The resistor goes in serie with the led.
Can some one help explain marking them? Do you bottom it out and then mark, mark before moving the dials, or does it not matter? Will twisting as you take them off off set the markings?
You mark them before you move them. remove the lens, mark then remove. But I have a hunch it doesnt even matter if you bump the key without starting engine they'll reset. Do you best and you should be just fine
Nice video and explanations. I tried to refloat the soldier on the resistors to fix my PRND321 and DIC readout. 1 of them was loose as I refloated the soldier, it moved so I thought for sure I had it fixed. Have you ever replaced the resistors? If so, what are the specs on it so I know what to buy? Also, all my gauges went out at once too but I have power to all my idiot lights, gauges and turn signals.
these resistors are 510ohms and only for the PRND321, not the DIC. Did you try to reflow the connector the cluster plugs in? Sounds like your missing power or ground for those needles. Also take a small pick and tighten the female contact in the connector that plugs into it
Veikra So if my PRNDL321 AND my odometer are intermittent, it's probably the connector, not the resistors?? Do you know which connector pins drive the PRNDL/odometer? I hate to disassemble the cluster if I don't have to. It looks pretty fragile. Thanks for all the good info!
Bruce Bowman I don't know the exact pinout, but you could find it somewhere. Did you check the 4 resistors on the right side? they are roughtly at the same spot than those I reflowed in the videos, exept to the right on the same side of the board. Sorry I missed your reply, hence the delay
Veikra HOW do i take a small pick and make the female end tighter in the connector , do you mean the harness?? Let me know asap, my lights are dim untill i push down on harness :s please thx
Thank you for video. Excellent video and commentary. My initial problem was the gear selection display and it worked for a couple of months but now has disappeared again. Is there a special solder I should use? Now I also need to change some dash bulbs. Is it difficult to change bulbs on steering wheel controls as well as temperature dash buttons?Thanks. You saved me hundreds of dollars and dealer aggravation. Important to follow your instructions removing gauge arms. I didn't initially turn dial counterclockwise and wondered why it wouldn't come off. Thank you., Michael
for the indicator : YES you should remove most of the solder and solder with lead solder, it's the best, flexible and wont crack like the silver solder. It's hard to find lead nowaday, but try online. Lights: It's not too bad for the dash and temp control, if you can solder those indicator 1206 size resistors, you can definitely do the dash and temperature control. I do have a video where I replaced those in the temperature control lights. ua-cam.com/video/Y4EUcEn5w5c/v-deo.html You dont have to worry about polarity if you are replacing with the normal incadescent bulbs. Ive not done the steering wheel so far, but you reminded me to do it as mine are all burned up. Ill order the parts and do it, that'll be a good video.
Awesome thanks. I will look around house for lead. Most of what I have is for plumbing and some is not marked but really thin silver colour. Not sure how too identify if its lead when unmarked. Please let me know if there is a way. Lastly, I also have a 6th generation honda accord 98-2001 and one of the cluster lights (incandescent -194)failed. It fits into a holder that turns and locks. Replaced this once before but now it won't work. The holder has 2 little prongs that make contact with a fine silver tape like on board. The silver is a little scratched from prongs of holder as are the other lights that work the same on the dash. I used an eraser to clean contacts and then applied dielectric grease but that one light still doesn't work. Is there such a thing as silver tape for contact or do you have any idea why this light won't work? Thanks for all your input, Michael
Hi Veikra, Thanks for the input. I finally got around to 2nd time re- soldering gear indicator with identified electrical solder 60/40. I believe this has higher lead content. So far so good. We'll see how long it last :-) I want to replace the instrument bulbs as only 4 are working out of 12. And of course still have to replace bulbs in climate control, steering wheel and left side of dash. Do you know what type of incandescent bulbs to use i.e. volts or mA? Or does it matter? Also thinking about about LED. Can I, should I and if so what should I purchase? I have only seen bulb replacements on ebay. I have not found anything on Amazon. Last time I purchase a cell phone battery on ebay it lasted less than 1 year and expanded overnight and deformed cover. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Btw, dealer does not sell them, nor does The source. I am in Canada so limited to options.
lead solder is better. the original is silver solder, and it cracks because it's hard and brittle. I replaced climate control bulbs and 4x4 switch with discrete led and resistors. I will do dash soon. I would not put back the incadescents. When you put white led in, it's comes out a smooth blue color and looks great and modern instead of the yellowish green
Thx Veikra. I will think about led but there is a significant cost savings for incandescent. I can get 100 for 9.97 on line. Thx for the input. Let me know when you have uploaded dash light bulb replacement. Cheers!
Hi, I followed your video and got half way there. I have the PRND321 to light up but it still says odometer error. Any idea where I should look next? thx david
+David Reda damn odometer error is a bad one. It's most likely solder joints which cracked under one of the bga chips. Bga chips have contacts under the chip and you need an hot air soldering station to reflow/remelt the solder. You cannot reach the pads with a conventionnal iron :(
arahtson1 They should still be on the board. It's the solder that cracked.If you need replacement from digikey. I don't remember their value or exact size but there's remaining you'll get it from them. They are numbers on them, and it means the value in ohms. Just look up how to read resistor value
+David Reda It's either the large IC close to the middle or a flash chip nearby. I'd have to look at the board to pinpoint you. Unfortuanly I lost my high res picture of the board. Read the numbers of the chip and search it. I'd reflow the MCU first with no clean flux underneat. Make a small dam to contain it under it and heat both size of the board carefully
Hello again Viekra, if I replace the cluster of my truck with one I pull out of a truck from the junk yard will the odometer read my miles of the other trucks.
Dealership can do it, but also people with the correct equipement ( tech 2 etc ) You can send it to a repair place as well. I know a few guys in the corvette forums that have the equipment. Remember it's only illegal to tamper to misrepresent the actual mileage of the vehicule, and that's not what you are doing. You are changing it to represent the actual mileage so there is no legal issues AT ALL
Alex Keevan The odometer information is stored in the computer not the gauge cluster. You can actually remove the cluster from the vehicle and drive it for days and when you reinstall the cluster the odometer will automatically update to the correct mileage.
Dmax04 If that's the truck's cluster yes, but with a different truck's cluster it might not. Even our radios dont, and need the vin number to mach in the bcm and the radio to activate it. I think the cluster will throw a fit if the vin numbers arent matching.
Well I changed out the stepper motors just as you did in your video with out any problems, but when I went to reassemble the cover I found a little tiny part with a green rubber tip that had come off the circuit board. After doing a careful check of the circuit board I saw it is what you mash to reset the trip meter. How in the world can one get just this tiny part?
It's useless if you have steering controls but unless you buy a defective cluster for very very cheap, Id repair the one you have. If you lost it then you're SOL. You can always get crafty and make yourself a new one. All it has to do is to press the switch afterall.
guess I will just have to get a little creative with this little 3/16 x 3/16 critter. Many thanks V. Did not see a video on rear end repair on the 2005 GMC Sierra
John L yeah, just get a piece of chopstick painted black :) No videos on the rear end since mine never broke. It would be specific as there are many different rear ends. I have the AAM 11.5 GM 14 bolts as my trucks is a big one. The 10 bolts are the ones that usually fail, and are found in half ton 1500 trucks
they are small 1206 or smaller smd.almost impossible to heatsink. For a permanent fix, use lead based solder, it wont crack. That's what I do with any cracked solder joint and I never revisted any.
turns out you can quickly bump the key to start and backwithout starting engine to reset and make then go down. I wasnt sure it would work so I marked them and put them back where they were.
Thanks for the video. I have an 03. I've replaced the stepper motors already. The PRND321 has always been dim. Lately it has intermittent power failures. Do you think those resisters could be causing the power to fail?
That's a good price. Video is many many years old when it was 300$ and 2 weeks of wait time. I'd rather fix myself than lose 4 figures on truck downtime. Time > money, money > time, pick your poison
The gauges stopped working gradually; first the oil gauge dropped to zero, then the speedometer shot all the way past top speed. After that all but the gas gauge stopped working. If that gives you any idea of what might have happened. I appreciate your time in answering me.
it sounds like the stepper motors going out one by one, but you replaced them ....so I dont know. Tried tightening the pins of the connector behind the cluster?
Veikra, great video on changing out the speedometer things. By the way what is the actual name of these parts, and do you have a part number you can provide me? My Tach and heater gauges are not working at all. GM parts dude said GM dosent make this part, and would have to purchase a new or rebuilt instrument panel for $325.00..... not!.
Yes the names are stepper motors. On my truck the part number for those is x27-168. Found in many many vehicules. The PRND321 fix requires to resolder the pads of the resistors because the ROHS silver solder cracks over time.
Just finished fixing the PRND321 gear indicator on my 04 Yukon. Only found one of the seven resistors loose. Re-soldering that didn't completely fix it; had to re-solder all seven resistors. THANK YOU FOR POSTING THIS VIDEO.
Great video, just what I was looking for. My shifter display was dim and I wasn't sure what resistors controlled it. Thanks for taking the time to share.
By far the best instructions on the project, getting the needles off stopped me, also on the prnd. until your video, it felt like I was going too brake the needles if I pried any harder. thank you
Excellent instructional video. I replaced all 6 steppers as well as 6 LEDs. Thank you very much for taking the time to explain the process. You are an asset to the youtube community.
You did a brilliant job then ;) Make sure the pins in your connector are all nice and tight as well, it's easily missed and I didn't put it in the video
Thanks for the video! My PRNDL has been very dim for a long time. I had already replaced a couple stepper motors and a bunch of bulbs that were burned out. Finally got around to doing this and your video helped greatly. So now my PRNDL looks so bright and my DIC looks a little dim. Its still very visible but not bright like I see others in videos. Figure I'm way ahead of the game doing all these fixes myself so can't complain.
my 2004 chevy suburban PRND321 light's gone....looked at the solder sites of those 7 resistors, looks fine, soldered them anyway per your advice.... and it works!!! light backs on....thank you very much.....you're a big help
+Ray Dill Hi, when you resoldered those connections, did you just reheat the resistors or remove their solder joints altogether?
+rob donell You dont need to remove the parts, just reheat and dab a little more solder on the joints, it'll be fine
Thank you, Veikira. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks so much... My gear shift indicator wasn't showing.. So I followed your steps then I put it back in my truck and now it works..YOU ARE AWESOME..My Truck is a GMC Sierra 2003
I'm glad it worked !
This video looks easy. I've been planning to fix my cluster for a while. I checked on Amazon and seen the repair kit along with the solder. Thanks for the video I will be looking forward to fix my cluster.
I’m a couple years late but thank you for the video. I had replaced the fuel and speedo stepper motors but a year later the cluster was having dimming and turning off issues. I narrowed it down to the pigtail if I’d flex or push it in it would ok. Today I re-soldered the resistors that you did and wallah working fine now.
Nice
I used this video to fix my speedometer and my gear shift indicator. Replaced stepper rmotors with updated version. Resoldering the resistors that he did in the video fixed my gear selector that did not light up...A 100% fix for me :)
*two thumbs up*
I want to say 1000x thanks for this. I had the super dim PRND21 and erratic fuel and temp readouts. I followed your video but made a few changes perhaps some can try before soldering. Hopefully this comment will stay near the top for others to see. Now the dim PRND21 issue with the resistors is unavoidable to have to solder, and I had to solder mine, but the steppers MIGHT not need to be replaced. Instead I tore down the unit as described in the video and sprayed "Kent Automotive -Super slick Dry Lube P50077" down the shafts of the steppers once the needles(important and the template/face)were removed. I let the lube creep/penetrate over dinner. Afterwards I put a needle on each stepper and worked them gently back and forth not forcing them. After 10/20 cycles back and forth the nasty crunchy grinding feels like brand new. After reassembly everything works perfectly. As mentioned above tear your unit right down. dont leave the faceplate on after taking off needles to spray the lube. it will etch/stain your display.
+PhekQ2 let us know if it last or not. I paid very little for the stepper motor so I went ahead and replaced them. I DID have a feeling it might just be old grease gumming them up but I didnt push farther as I wanted to complete the repair and video.
Great video. Used the same basic technique on my 2004 GMC Envoy to fix the digital odometer display. I also recommend applying dielectric grease to the modular connector pins before re-installing the unit into the dashboard. Thank you Viekra!
Nice job. I hardly use any dielectric grease. When I find corroded terminal it's usually du to a bad weatherpack connector that I replace.What I didnt show is I did tighten all the pins in the connector though , just in case. Thanks for watching, and you can always send me the money you saved or a tip ;)
This is a great video! Dealer wanted $500 to fix lights and shift indicator on 2003 GMC Yukon. I did it in about 1 1/2 hours start to finish. Would have taken much longer if not for this video. Thanks for your efforts and great video.
Awesome, It's great when you guys let me know your success stories :) Thank you
Thank you for this video. My PRNDL was not working when I bought my truck. I did exactly what you did and it works great.
Good job !
Thank you for an excellent demo on how to solve this problem with the PRNDL321. I followed your instructions and it worked!!!
you're welcome, please subscribe and thumb up :)
thank you for taking the time to put this excellent video out. i never would've have figured out which resistors needed soldering did it last night and it worked
Great, no one had those addressed and pointed out so I made a video about it. Im glad it helped so many, and the good comment of yours made my day.
Thought about subscribing? Always fixing car stuffs like this
You Rock Dude!!! My PRND321 is now bright again!!!
Thank Man
This re-soldering of the resistors is just what was needed to bring back to life the shift indicator light assembly on this 2005 Chevy 4x4 of my friends daughter's that I worked on today. I used my Tenma Digital 21-1590 soldering station and set the tip for 700 degrees and they soldered perfectly with no movement whatsoever. Beats replacing the dashboard assembly and it works great.
Another satisfied customer of my channel :) Glad it worked !
Veikra, thanks, this worked great!
For others: my symptom was a dim PRND321 display in a 2003 Silverado. It resembled having a burnt out backlight. Resoldering the 7 resistors as Veikra shows fixed it. The needles are a "friction fit", very smooth. One mistake to avoid--I put the surround on before checking the position of the needles, pinching one that was pointing down; I had to remove the surround again to free it. If you can't see really small things anymore due to age, make sure you have a loop or magnifying glass handy to check your solders. These are surface mount resistors, totally flat and small.
Thanks again!
You are right, you have to admit the resistor's solder looks pretty fine, yet they really are the problem. Glad it helped, I also have a video to fix seatbelts that do not retract anymore, so if it happens on your truck, dont buy another, watch my videos and fix it
Veikra
Hi Veikra. Thanks for your quick response. After dark I realized my speedometer lights no longer work. I started to remove the gauge cluster to check the resistors again, and the right side of the speedometer became illuminated upon loosening the bolts. Do you know if any of the 7 resistors are for speedometer lights? I should have checked them all with an ohmmeter I guess.
you mean the lights for the backlight? The 7 resistor in the video are strickly for the 7 segment display of the PRND321. Some lights for backlight have sockets, some are soldered. It depends on the year. Pretty sure they are soldered in yours. Touch up the solders of the lights themselves
The Video Is The Best. I thought I had to purchase a new cluster for my 04 Tahoe.
Thanks GREAT JOB!!!!!
Donald Middleton Thumb it up then and subscribe. It really helps me reach more people
Thanks, I'm going to be doing this repair on my 05 envoy. All motors and bulbs as well as the resistor reflow. Your video is very helpful
I should have done the bulbs at the same time. I have a few dead ones now :(
Great video! My son just bought a 2002 Chevy 2500HD that has the dim range display so we are going to try this to fix it today. Thank you for posting!
Sir, I wanted to thank you for the easy to follow instructions, you saved me at least 100.00 my soldering sucks but it did the job. Thanks again
Nice job, two thumbs up!
Great video!! Fixed the problem with the selector lights and I changed all the lights the LED. Thanks again
You're welcomed.
Very helpful, thank you. I saw another one supposedly for my year/model but the circuit board came out differently. This one showed how to remove the pointers on the gauges very well. Good job!
Glad it helped
Referring to this video and some others, set me up to fix my own one with success. Thank's, I appreciated.
Nice work. Thanks for showing the shift indicator resistors.
It's 3 years later, still going strong no issues with the repair so far.
Thanks for the info! I reflowed the 7 resistors and BAM they work like new! Great tip!
Nice, no need to replace the vaccuum display afterall !
Thanks for the video, I just fixed my 2003 silverado, with your help. I bought the kit from Amazon, it comes with everything you need to do the job. God bless you
Yes they have nice kits now. This video is 7 years old and I still have the truck, still a very bright prndl321 so it will last if done correctly. Happy driving !
I am glad GMC made removal simple. My soldering skills are iffy; so I thinking of shipping it to a service that does this repair.
+rob donell do you still need help with your cluster repairs? I may be able to help
I bought a soldering and will give it a try.
+tessie mcdonell how did it go?
It went great they shipped it back the same day. plus they did a complete rebuild my park indicator lcd backlighting and all of my gauges
Thank you so much for the time you put into this video. I used a cheap $5 soldering iron and it worked perfectly on a 2004.5 gmc 2500
I had no idea my video would help so many. Getting comments like yours makes the time put into the vids all worth it. Thanks you for the kind words
Still have the same truck and it’s still working 9 years later! Thanks again!!!
The gauge cluster bezel has some funky rubber bumper things, they go flying. I found one days later Good video!
Very good detailed video. The step by step process really helped me through; thanks.
Perfect! was looking for a video to fix the Gear Indicator. Good job man!
Let me know after you've tried it if it worked or not :)
Re-flowed the solder in the 510 resistors, fixed the PRND321 which wasn't working.Thanks!
Michael Trumblee Glad to be of help, Subscribe for more DIY :)
Great video I was able to fix the Dim PRND321. Thank you!
+Greatest Ever Thanks for watching :p
Great video! I followed along and fixed my dim PRND123, and it works perfectly. Thank You!
thanks for watching !
Excellent video! Thanks so much for your help.
You rock. Liked and subscribed! Repaired my 2005 Chevy 2500HD truck today with laptop on tailgate.
+drchris75169 Awesome. Welcome aboard !
+Veikra Ok I have a different problem now and wondered if you have knowledge on repairing it. There are 6 bulbs behind the climate control knobs (function selector and fan speed). They are labeled DS1, DS2, DS3, DS6, DS7 and DS8. DS4 and DS5 are for the temp sliders and work. DS3 and DS8 work but the others do not. Same truck and I totally understand if you haven't worked on this part. Thank you so much!
+drchris75169 I actually have a video on the climate control bulbs. Except I dont have the same climate control as yours. Mines is the automatic control. No slides, but temp dials on both sides and lcd in the middle . I replaced all the lights in mine on the video and used cheap led and resistors, soldered straight on the board. It lights up bluish instead of weird yellow when you remove the green cap of the incadescent bulbs. If I recall correctly your units has 2 style of bulbs, so research them correctly. Mine only had small 7219 t-1 wire terminal bulb. I modified some 3 mm leds instead. I did tge 4x4 switch as well
+Veikra Thank you. Going to watch your video and try and do that.
the resistors on my board all looked visually fine but I figured I had gotten that far I should probably try and resolder them anyways. Happy to report problem is solved. Thanks!
Now if I could only figure out my power window wonkyness.
yeah, they are hard to tell to the naked eye, and touching them up with the iron is quick :)
OMG the prnd321 thing worked for me! Thank you very much!
Awesome ! Knowing it helped someone make it all worthwhile to record vids for youtubers/dailymotioners If you like my repairs you may want to subcribe, it's free :)
Thank You Thank You, I re-soldered the 7 resistors and it worked. Great Video
Thanks ! Im happy it helped so many people, these clusters are expensive to send in for repair, plus the lost time waiting for it
Perfect, thanks so much. I can now see my PRND321
Very good and helpful video. Thank you very much.
Thank you for the kind words. Figured it could help others.
Great Video it fixed my Dim PRNDL. Great video
You showed me the way . Thanks , it worked.
Nice!!!
Thanks. Your video helped immensely.
Thanks for the video I just fixed mine great info keep up the good work
Thanks resoldered those resistors and fixed my display.
Did you use flux or just add solder to each resistor? I replaced all my cluster bulbs and added some solder to one of the resistors not thinking they all needed redone. It lights up very dim so i'm assuming I need to hit them all.
Yes, to light up the PRND321 you have to do them all. Reheat all of them, flux is always better it helps distribute the heat faster. I did add a tiny bit of solder to both side of each resistor.
Just resoldered boths sides on all, but the solder has flux in it. My mirror temp display went dim when it got cold so I wonder if it also has some resistors that need reflowed..
Thanks for your replys. I tried some flux but for some reason the solder did not want to stick to it, I'll also admit that my soldering skills are very minimal. I was able to get solder on all resistors and It lit up nice and bright although the solder looks like crap.
Eric Harrold You cannot get better if you dont practice. No one can see those solder joints and your dash is fixed. :)
That being said, a good iron with variable temperature goes a long way
Finally someone explained the PRNDL light. I did it and it worked. Only think now is, only the back lights and the check engine light only come on until I turn over the motor. Is there something I messed up on?
Also, if you can explain the outside temp gauge on the inside rear view mirror, that would be great. Mine doesn't come on anymore
I think you may have some slack contacts in the connector behind the cluster, an playing with it made the issue pop up. I'd suggest taking a small pick and making the tabs in the connector tight again. It'll only take a few minutes.
As for the mirror, is it only the temperature which doesnt display or the whole screen doesnt show anything. No compass No temp?
Veikra on my rear view mirror, nothing shows up, only the airbag says like “airbag on” or off but the temp. and comp. dont turn on
Veikra can you make a video or explain what do you mean by tighten up the tap connectors again. Because the issue I'm having is that my cluster turns off when it wants to and on when it wants to and sometimes when I have the key off I see the informational screen illuminate I don't know if it's the circuit board or if it's the connector on the back of the cluster, any information will help thank you
Yes look for cold solder joints,and the solder will look dull grey and not shiny like it should be,,,You can buy the the whole kit on ebay which comes with the solder gun,and the resisters complete with enough motors to replace them all,which you should do because the others will go bad down the road.
Great video help a lot Ill try once I find who has the stepper motors
Thanks
Hi, I replaced my motors and replaced the bulbs with LEDs, and they all work great... Now my problem is the turn signal indicators don't work.. The outside lights flash, but the dash lights don't flash.. Any Idea??
You might have put the LED backward if you replace the bulb. LED don't work backward. Otherwise check for bad solder joints, Obviously only the bulb in the cluster doesnt light up. Tighten up the pins in the connector coming out of the dash as well. Very important
Great VIDEO !! Thank YOU !!!!
Thanks for watching!
Great video, I did this exactly like you showed and it fixed my problem. In the meantime however I lost two backlights behing my speedo and tach. I saw the small bulbs that were soldered in, do you know how to replace those bulbs or do you have any ideas on what else it may be? they worked before I pulled the dash
those bulb are incandescent, some of mine are burnt as well. You have to unsolder them and solder new in. It's the cheapest to try first before looking elsewhere. They all burn up eventually
Thanks man. Great video. Helped me a lot
Here's an admittedly ignorant question: what's the blue pen-like thing used at the 19 minute mark?
Great video. Two thumbs up. :-D Thanks.
Thank you !
Thx for the reply. I found a service that says he can repair the "odometer error" and my cluster will have the mileage that is in the cluster at the time of the failure.
Which means the mileage will be close but not perfect. As the cluster has had this error for about 6 months.
Excellent video..............Thank you
Hi Veikra, Very nice video, my odometer is out all together and my PRNDL was very dim, this fixed my PRNDL and is nice and bright. Do you happen to know which items to solder to get the Odometer working again? All the solder joints looks good that I could see on everything. Thanks!
They may look good to the naked eyes. Touch them up anyways. I didnt mess with the larger vacuum display for the info center and odometer though, so I don't know exactly where all the guts for it are
Great video, my PRDN123 had been dim for 2 years...Now works, however my soldering was sketchy, going back in to clean up...and replace bulbs. What Flux did you use? THANKS!!!
Only used a no-clean flux pen
What are the part numbers for the stepper motors and where did you get them?
I like the video am fix my cluster with this
+Nelson Jimenez Good job, one less part to the landfill !
How do you fix a dim DIC ? This trick fixed my dim prd problem
I don't have the board right in front of me but i've seen the pins of the big connector having cracked solder joint causing it. Try to touch them up with new solder.
Excelente video, me sirvió para reemplazar los leds de iluminación
Gracias desde México
:)
eres bienvenido, por favor, comparta el video
Great Video - It worked then failed. Some horizontal lines appeared then the display went dark. I am wondering what went wrong. Any comments or advise would be appreciated. Again, the procedure worked and it was very bright, then it failed within 5 mins. Thanks
that doesnt sound good, making you bridged a fewsolderjoint or the vaccuum display is actually bad
great video, very helpful, I think im gonna do mine now...thank u
Very nice job on the video the exact same things are wrong with my 04 I cant wait to order the parts and try mine. Thank you so much very helpful !!
Way to go, another satisfied youtuber ;)
I replaced the step motors on my 03 yukon. when I plugged panel up everything worked except the gauges. I then pressed the plug in harder and the gauges powered up. After about a day the gauges started intermittently coming on and off until they finally quitting altogether. I removed the dash panel and wiggled each individual wire but nothing happened. The way I got it to work again was to push and pull on the connector hard enough to flex the board. When I do this the gauges will power up occasionally but they will eventually quit again. The puzzling thing is that I do not have to hit a bump for the gauges to quit. They will power on and off regardless road conditions. Any ideas as to where the short could be?? Have you experienced anything like this? Thanks in advance.
My PRNDL321 would do that when I'd press the connector. You should reflow the solder on all the pins of the connector first, and ice pick the other side of the connector coming out of the dash to tighten the female pins in it
Hey great video, but not sure why you need to tape the needle locations if they normally go back just below the O on each dial?
They dont exactly raise back up to zero if you put them all the way down. They need to be slightly up from the stopper . When you turn the truck on they need to go to zero. Found it was possible for the transmission temperature gauge to be put too low and reading low the first time around. Used scan gauge to find the right spot again. I guess im a perfectionnist
I was able to fix the p rnd321 display on mine. But the information display went darker afterwords. Is there a resistor or something with the power supply causing the change? I only reflowed the resisters that were the same as the ones in your video.
The display is a plasma display and can fail too. Sometimes you have to replace it. It was advailable to purchase online but it`s a lot of soldering
@@Nordic_Mechanic it's still working and I can still read it. So I'm going to live with it the way it is. Don't think I could solder all those tiny connections.
Thx again for responding. You got me inspired and I bought your suggested white led's. I assume I will need resistors as led's are 5mm~3.3V vs. 12V. I have the full cluster which I think are 9 or 12 bulbs. Should I buy 470ohm or 560 ohm resistors for each bulb or something else? I assume I will not be using blue plastic holder or should I? Thanks again. Anxious to get to it before it gets really cold and I snap some brittle dash component. Thanks Veikra
Leds are not driven by voltage but current. It depends on the current for those Leds. From the datasheet youll get the current, then you do ohms law to find a resistor. Keep in mind the system voltage is not 12V but 14.3V . Or youll be one of these guys complaining that leds dont work.
You can't easily use the holders since you need to solder the resistors.
Helpful tip. If you sand the dome of the leds flat such as I did for my heater control, you'll get more diffused light and less hotspots. Also, you can add more leds that there were bulbs, for an more even light throughout the cluster
When the cluster would fail,would your vehicle start and when the oil gauge didn't work would you be stuck in park and not be able to backup or go forward?
no the cluster is only a display and does not intervene with any functions. You can remove the whole cluster and your truck will still work and count mileage and all that.
Thanks.
I have not watched the whole video yet, but this is a project I plan on doing to my 05 tahoe soon. Can you tell me what type of solder you used?
I always try to replace lead free with leaded solder as it's more flexible and thus, last longer
Fix it. Thanks. That was easy.
Hi Viekra, thanks for the video, changed 4 motors and 3 bulbs everything is fine except for the speedo gage. replaced that motor with 2 others thinking is was defective, they all can't be bad, what else can I check?
Alex Keevan You can check the pins in the connector behind the dash. They sometimes get slack and could be an issue. Also check the solder on the pins on the cluster itself. Does your odometer work and count the km/miles ?
Yes, the odometer works and counts the miles, just not the speed.
then if it's really not the steeper then there's something wrong with the microcontroller driving it, or between microcontroller and the pins of the stepper motor.
This would need more on hand diagnosis
Wow interesting, that's beyond me. Is that something that can be looked at by anyone, or is it best to bring it to a dealer?
Dont bring to a dealer, they wont fix theyll charge you big bucks for a new one. They are specialized cluster repair services you can contract for it. They were roughly 200$ when I made this video. No idea now
Hi Veikra, I have learned some additional information I thought I would share and seek your opinion. I was in an electronics store and read a pkg. of 5 and 3mm, 20mA which indicated if board was supplying 9 volts then use 1/4watts, 1K resistors and hook resistors to negative terminal. Completely opposite to what I have read. Most have connected resistor to positive side. If 12 volts supply then I think the pkg indicated 1/4 watt 680 resistor. Any thoughts? I just attached one of led's without resistor to a 9 volt battery to see brightness and at 1st it was bright then within 3 seconds the brightness dropped. I know it was a 3.3 volt led. Not sure if I've screwed up this led since I did not attach a resistor. Any thoughts? Thanks again.
you can connect the resistor on either side, doesnt matter. Leds are driven by current. You blew up that led and put unlimited current through it when you connected it directly. You have to divide the volts by the current you want and it will give you the amount of ohms you need in the resistor. The resistor goes in serie with the led.
Can some one help explain marking them? Do you bottom it out and then mark, mark before moving the dials, or does it not matter? Will twisting as you take them off off set the markings?
You mark them before you move them. remove the lens, mark then remove. But I have a hunch it doesnt even matter if you bump the key without starting engine they'll reset. Do you best and you should be just fine
Nice video and explanations. I tried to refloat the soldier on the resistors to fix my PRND321 and DIC readout. 1 of them was loose as I refloated the soldier, it moved so I thought for sure I had it fixed. Have you ever replaced the resistors? If so, what are the specs on it so I know what to buy?
Also, all my gauges went out at once too but I have power to all my idiot lights, gauges and turn signals.
these resistors are 510ohms and only for the PRND321, not the DIC. Did you try to reflow the connector the cluster plugs in? Sounds like your missing power or ground for those needles. Also take a small pick and tighten the female contact in the connector that plugs into it
Veikra So if my PRNDL321 AND my odometer are intermittent, it's probably the connector, not the resistors?? Do you know which connector pins drive the PRNDL/odometer? I hate to disassemble the cluster if I don't have to. It looks pretty fragile. Thanks for all the good info!
Bruce Bowman I don't know the exact pinout, but you could find it somewhere. Did you check the 4 resistors on the right side? they are roughtly at the same spot than those I reflowed in the videos, exept to the right on the same side of the board. Sorry I missed your reply, hence the delay
Veikra HOW do i take a small pick and make the female end tighter in the connector , do you mean the harness?? Let me know asap, my lights are dim untill i push down on harness :s please thx
Thank you for video. Excellent video and commentary. My initial problem was the gear selection display and it worked for a couple of months but now has disappeared again. Is there a special solder I should use? Now I also need to change some dash bulbs. Is it difficult to change bulbs on steering wheel controls as well as temperature dash buttons?Thanks. You saved me hundreds of dollars and dealer aggravation. Important to follow your instructions removing gauge arms. I didn't initially turn dial counterclockwise and wondered why it wouldn't come off. Thank you., Michael
for the indicator : YES you should remove most of the solder and solder with lead solder, it's the best, flexible and wont crack like the silver solder. It's hard to find lead nowaday, but try online. Lights: It's not too bad for the dash and temp control, if you can solder those indicator 1206 size resistors, you can definitely do the dash and temperature control. I do have a video where I replaced those in the temperature control lights. ua-cam.com/video/Y4EUcEn5w5c/v-deo.html You dont have to worry about polarity if you are replacing with the normal incadescent bulbs. Ive not done the steering wheel so far, but you reminded me to do it as mine are all burned up. Ill order the parts and do it, that'll be a good video.
Awesome thanks. I will look around house for lead. Most of what I have is for plumbing and some is not marked but really thin silver colour. Not sure how too identify if its lead when unmarked. Please let me know if there is a way. Lastly, I also have a 6th generation honda accord 98-2001 and one of the cluster lights (incandescent -194)failed. It fits into a holder that turns and locks. Replaced this once before but now it won't work. The holder has 2 little prongs that make contact with a fine silver tape like on board. The silver is a little scratched from prongs of holder as are the other lights that work the same on the dash. I used an eraser to clean contacts and then applied dielectric grease but that one light still doesn't work. Is there such a thing as silver tape for contact or do you have any idea why this light won't work? Thanks for all your input, Michael
Hi Veikra, Thanks for the input. I finally got around to 2nd time re- soldering gear indicator with identified electrical solder 60/40. I believe this has higher lead content. So far so good. We'll see how long it last :-) I want to replace the instrument bulbs as only 4 are working out of 12. And of course still have to replace bulbs in climate control, steering wheel and left side of dash. Do you know what type of incandescent bulbs to use i.e. volts or mA? Or does it matter? Also thinking about about LED. Can I, should I and if so what should I purchase? I have only seen bulb replacements on ebay. I have not found anything on Amazon. Last time I purchase a cell phone battery on ebay it lasted less than 1 year and expanded overnight and deformed cover. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. Btw, dealer does not sell them, nor does The source. I am in Canada so limited to options.
lead solder is better. the original is silver solder, and it cracks because it's hard and brittle. I replaced climate control bulbs and 4x4 switch with discrete led and resistors. I will do dash soon. I would not put back the incadescents. When you put white led in, it's comes out a smooth blue color and looks great and modern instead of the yellowish green
Thx Veikra. I will think about led but there is a significant cost savings for incandescent. I can get 100 for 9.97 on line. Thx for the input. Let me know when you have uploaded dash light bulb replacement. Cheers!
Hi, I followed your video and got half way there. I have the PRND321 to light up but it still says odometer error.
Any idea where I should look next?
thx
david
+David Reda damn odometer error is a bad one. It's most likely solder joints which cracked under one of the bga chips. Bga chips have contacts under the chip and you need an hot air soldering station to reflow/remelt the solder. You cannot reach the pads with a conventionnal iron :(
hello where you get the resistors for the Dim PRND321 I have the same problem with my 2005 Tahoe
arahtson1 They should still be on the board. It's the solder that cracked.If you need replacement from digikey. I don't remember their value or exact size but there's remaining you'll get it from them. They are numbers on them, and it means the value in ohms. Just look up how to read resistor value
Hi, would you know which BGA chip is for the odometer? Or have a link to a schematic for the circuit board?
thx, david
+David Reda It's either the large IC close to the middle or a flash chip nearby. I'd have to look at the board to pinpoint you. Unfortuanly I lost my high res picture of the board. Read the numbers of the chip and search it. I'd reflow the MCU first with no clean flux underneat. Make a small dam to contain it under it and heat both size of the board carefully
Hello again Viekra, if I replace the cluster of my truck with one I pull out of a truck from the junk yard will the odometer read my miles of the other trucks.
Alex Keevan It's gonna read the infos of the other truck. Mileage and vin number needs to be read from the old one and programmed in the new one
Where would I go to get it programmed?
Dealership can do it, but also people with the correct equipement ( tech 2 etc ) You can send it to a repair place as well. I know a few guys in the corvette forums that have the equipment.
Remember it's only illegal to tamper to misrepresent the actual mileage of the vehicule, and that's not what you are doing. You are changing it to represent the actual mileage so there is no legal issues AT ALL
Alex Keevan The odometer information is stored in the computer not the gauge cluster. You can actually remove the cluster from the vehicle and drive it for days and when you reinstall the cluster the odometer will automatically update to the correct mileage.
Dmax04
If that's the truck's cluster yes, but with a different truck's cluster it might not. Even our radios dont, and need the vin number to mach in the bcm and the radio to activate it. I think the cluster will throw a fit if the vin numbers arent matching.
Where do you order the replacement servo motors from?
Well I changed out the stepper motors just as you did in your video with out any problems, but when I went to reassemble the cover I found a little tiny part with a green rubber tip that had come off the circuit board. After doing a careful check of the circuit board I saw it is what you mash to reset the trip meter.
How in the world can one get just this tiny part?
It's useless if you have steering controls but unless you buy a defective cluster for very very cheap, Id repair the one you have. If you lost it then you're SOL. You can always get crafty and make yourself a new one. All it has to do is to press the switch afterall.
guess I will just have to get a little creative with this little 3/16 x 3/16 critter. Many thanks V. Did not see a video on rear end repair on the 2005 GMC Sierra
John L yeah, just get a piece of chopstick painted black :) No videos on the rear end since mine never broke. It would be specific as there are many different rear ends. I have the AAM 11.5 GM 14 bolts as my trucks is a big one. The 10 bolts are the ones that usually fail, and are found in half ton 1500 trucks
Question: would attaching a small heatsink that covers all 7 resistors possibly be a permanent fix?
they are small 1206 or smaller smd.almost impossible to heatsink. For a
permanent fix, use lead based solder, it wont crack. That's what I do
with any cracked solder joint and I never revisted any.
Thanks!
Why mark the needles, if you already know where they go? Are you just bottoming them out upon re-install? good video just confused thanks.
turns out you can quickly bump the key to start and backwithout starting engine to reset and make then go down. I wasnt sure it would work so I marked them and put them back where they were.
what resisters run just the odometer? my PRND321 works fine but odometer doesn't light up at all
i would need the board in front of me to tell you that
Thanks for the video. I have an 03. I've replaced the stepper motors already. The PRND321 has always been dim. Lately it has intermittent power failures.
Do you think those resisters could be causing the power to fail?
yes, 03 up is the same board. My PRND321 was dim and that's those 1206 size resistors that had cracked solder joints
For some arcane reasons I cannot reply to some comments. If I don't reply, comment again maybe I'll be then able to reply.
+Veikra I was unsuccessful with this fix, the gauges still don't work nor does the odometer and shift selector
DeAndre McClish
damn, you might be out of lluck without a reflow soldering machine and might not be worth your time.
+DeAndre McClish whats it doing now? I may be able to help
It takes time to show up in the search.
Are the rpm/mph stepper motors bigger than the oil/fuil/temp/volt stepper motors
They are all the same size and part number
Veikra thank you Sooooo much video was amazing and thank you for replying
Thank you. Gear select bright again
Good info
😂 Turn on subtitles and watch at 32:23 lol
But good video very informative and helpful
And funny, haha
Glad you liked it!
I just sent mine out for service $90 bucks n no headaches
That's a good price. Video is many many years old when it was 300$ and 2 weeks of wait time. I'd rather fix myself than lose 4 figures on truck downtime. Time > money, money > time, pick your poison
I did this and it didn't make any difference. Does that mean I have a bigger problem?
Yes, you may have wiring issues or blown cluster
The gauges stopped working gradually; first the oil gauge dropped to zero, then the speedometer shot all the way past top speed. After that all but the gas gauge stopped working. If that gives you any idea of what might have happened. I appreciate your time in answering me.
it sounds like the stepper motors going out one by one, but you replaced them ....so I dont know. Tried tightening the pins of the connector behind the cluster?
Veikra, great video on changing out the speedometer things. By the way what is the actual name of these parts, and do you have a part number you can provide me?
My Tach and heater gauges are not working at all.
GM parts dude said GM dosent make this part, and would have to purchase a new or rebuilt instrument panel for $325.00..... not!.
Yes the names are stepper motors. On my truck the part number for those is
x27-168. Found in many many vehicules.
The PRND321 fix requires to resolder the pads of the resistors because the ROHS silver solder cracks over time.
Thanks Veikra... Great information to help the old man fix his 05 sierra so he can see how fast I am going and if I have fuel.....
Found 6 stepper motors and 10 lamps for $22.75, free shipping......on EBAY
Beats dealer for 300$ any day ;)