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How To Use Glue Stick for 3D Printer Bed Adhesion
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- Опубліковано 8 жов 2019
- Best 3D Printer Bed Adhesive: www.visionmine...
Real life demonstration of how to use Glue Stick for 3D Printing from experts who have printed thousands of hours. While we don’t use gluestick now that we found a better solution, we share our old secrets with you on how you can use gluestick to get your 3D prints to stick. Rob and Cole will walk you through the process and also demonstrate for you our new solution we recommend as an alternative to using Glue Stick. This process works for PLA, ABS, PETG, and so much more.
Nano Polymer Adhesive:
www.visionmine...
Samples (promotion ended, $5 + shippnig):
www.visionmine...
At Vision Miner, we specialize in Functional 3D printing, especially high-performance plastics like PEEK, ULTEM, PPSU, PPS, CFPA, and more. We also have extensive experience with 3D scanners, and a whole array of solutions available for purchase. If you're interested in using functional 3D printing and materials in your business, feel free to reach out, and we can help you make the right choice for your application.
Call 833-774-6863 or email contact@visionminer.com, and we're here to help!
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Love how humble this is. They have a product and instead of pushing it hard, they simply say if you don't have the budget then this will work just fine.
YES!!! You got it -- we have an awesome product, but we're here to educate as well as provide solutions. So many people have benefitted from this video for just the glue stick -- and those who already used it and needed something more powerful and effective, found our glue. Thanks for the comment man, it's always refreshing to see :)
As a newbie to 3D printing, this was exactly what I needed to know! The glue stick solved the problem I had with models that moved mid-build. Thank you!
I added brim to my builds and helped alot with my second hand printer that had a well used bed
I had the exact same problem with my brand new printer. My rabbit sample would get about 20% of the way done and suddenly it would detach itself from the base and start moving around and completely ruined the printing!! I hope a simple glue stick can hold it down long enough to finish printing!!
That worked awesome! PLA was printing fine for me, but ABS was curling up on the first layer on every print. Glue stick worked the first time I tried it. I'll keep experimenting with other solutions, but glue stick definitely works as a cheap and easy solution.
That's 2 directions, but please, carry on.
:'D good catch hahaha
Yeah 1 direction was a crappy boyband. 🙄
Hey guys, this systematic little process works perfectly for me! Since I started using it, I have not had a single problem. Thanks a bunch! I have a black print bed, which shows the glue residue very clearly during cleaning, making a thorough clean-up really easy. Water on paper towel works really well to clean up glue stick, with just a little IPA at the end to make the bed pristine again. Cheers, Neil
I just got myself some glue sticks for my 3d printer (Ender 3 Max) and I have been struggling to find a guide that says more than "Just put it on the print bed." Thank you for making that guide.
I've only burned myself 99 times. I'm still relatively new.
Thank you so much for making this video. I have been designing and printed my own things for a while and recently have ran into my parts not sticking and doing this worked the first try!!! Thanks again!!!
Wow! I was doing it all wrong. Prints are sticking like a charm now with a gentle damp towel and dry between prints. To be honest, it got a little gunky when applying, so i firmly drew the putty knife across in the same direction to smooth it out. Did the same thing after applying the crosscoat. My bed is perfect! Thanks Guys!
Glass Beds - Works and sticks better if you heat your bed to 60c first. Also if you use Elmers purple stick glue you know when its dry when its color fades. Don’t understand the cross hatch stuff though. To clean I would suggest not using a razor blade and just let it sit under hot water - again with purple stick glue when it gets wet it will turn purple and you can watch it leave your bed. Denatured alcohol would be better to use as it cleans better than isopropyl.
PEI Sheet - Clean with denatured alcohol regularly and about once a month with acetone.
I watched so many videos on using glue sticks to get your prints to stick and these guys were the only ones to explain in detail how to use it and if whether or not to let the glue dry. Thanks guys!!!
I run my Bambu plate under warm water and use regular liquid hand soap and a paper towel to clean it. Total cleanliness is easily achieved. Dry with a soft towel. Re-apply glue stick, light and even, before the next print. Never had an adhesion failure. Use the "purple disappearing water-soluble" glue sticks. Cheap. Reliable. Easily removed from the plate with soap and water. The Bambu Lab glue sticks work great, but are a bit overpriced to use if one prints a lot.
I've been using a set of glue sticks from Rite aid for years that goes from purple to clear when dry. It's the greatest.
That Nano Polymer adhesive looks AWESOME! Love how it takes the guess work and the effort out of the equation! ;) Nice job guys!
It's mind-blowing! We only used it for the high-end stuff, and when we tried it on PLA we knew we had something.... If we'd be happy to send you guys some, just email rob@visionminer.com! And keep up the awesome videos! :D
Heck, we'd be happy to send you some to share with your audience!
I will order a sample, too! At least for taking the time to do the vid. I didn't even know you were gonna pimp a product until the last minute. Nice! Anyway, I have been 3D printing for six days and have had a lot of difficulty with PLA sticking to the stock Ender 3 pad thing and was resorting to rafts. Just got my glass bed today. Tried to rawdog it immediately out of the box. Benchy got to 18% and started spinning (which was already an upgrade). It's at 91% now after a (not as thorough) glue stick application. Pretty sweet. :)
@@bnutz3k Great to hear! Yes, we're definitely pimping our products, but we're here to help #1, so we make sure we're giving value, and then mention what else we have to help :) Thanks for the awesome comment!
@@VisionMiner Hey! I should follow up! Your stuff really works great. I don't really have problems with adhesion anymore with PLA and PETG (dat powder-coated plate!), due to both better gear and more experience, so I don't currently need it. This stuff is phenomenal for certain materials and surfaces in general, though. I definitely recommend it to people new to the hobby. It's superior to glue stick in that it doesn't leave any goop behind and it seemed to be good for about three prints before I needed to re-apply. A small amount goes a long way, too. I still have a little left. :)
Thanks and Happy New Year!
Great video 👍
You guys should do a strength comparison or demonstration on the strength of high temp plastics. Like maybe a demonstration of how peek/Ultem parts compare to other plastics and maybe light metals.
For pla pla+ I just dilute sugar in water and brush on - perfect adhesion and easy release when cold and no chemicals going into the environment
Half sugar half water?
@@PassionsGeek nah half water then half sugar
How much sugar in the water?
@@unitruth half
Thanks for helping . I,m a brand newly minted operator.
I've been printing for a bit over a decade and your Nano Adhesive sounds great, can't wait to try some. But when it comes to getting materials stuck down, glue stick works for almost everything, very easy, very well. The cleaning routine for glue stick in this video is a tiny bit over dramatized. Get a bondo body filler crapper (tan colored stiff but flexible plastic that will not hurt even a PEI coated bed) to scape off the bulk of the glue after wetting with water and wipe clean with water. I get by with half a paper towel each time. You can also print a nylon scrapper. The glue stick dissolves readily in just water, absolutely no need for windex or IPA ever to clean up glue stick. On PEI, no need for glue with PLA and most PETG. For TPU/TPE you want the glue stick to prevent the filament from sticking to the bed permanently, so more of a release agent in that case. Some PETG for me has needed glue stick for the same reason, that's why I say most PETG will not need it on PEI. For PA/Nylon you will need the glue to get it to stick at all to anything. This Nano Adhesive looks great and I'll have to try some for PEEK but like they said, for most materials glue stick will work and it works well. I Honestly quit trying to find things to use for this. Glue stick just works when PEI or glass doesn't. The Nano adhesive is VERY expensive over glue stick and I would be surprised if it performed over glue stick remotely close to the price difference. Can you do a video on why this "nano polymer" is so pricy? Is it all the fancy die to make it an appealing color? LOL just joking. But seriously I'm an engineer and all it says on the SDS is isopropyl alcohol 50%. So what's the other 50%? I don't need trade secrets but it's going to get heated in my presence so I'd like to know more than it's just a "nano polymer", since we both know that's just marketing wank. There are loads of polymers but only so many and only so many suitable. How safe is this stuff at 200c for hours? Toxicity of PVA (glue stick) is pretty well known and documented. I get pretty turned off when a company charges these prices, calls it a "nano polymer" and tells you nothing about the "technology". My guess is that it's no special polymer, it's something really inexpensive and very simple which is the trade secret. Please make a video proving me wrong. I probably came across abrasive in this but I'm not really trying to bust your balls, I'm a fan of the channel and would like a deeper dive into the Nano Polymer why it PERFORMS better particularly at high temps.
Nothing against glue sticks or your polymers, but by simply cleaning out my bed with windex and then some alcohol, replacing the default bed with a mirror, and spending a bunch of time making sure the bed is *level* (and I mean LEVEL), and printing the filament a bit hotter, I've actually managed to avoid the need to for these kinds of adhesives, especially if I'm ok using a brim. Things seem to adhere to the plate just fine for me, fingers crossed
That said, I print almost exclusively with PLA, which of course doesn't have the warping problems of something like ABS. If/when I get brave enough to do some ABS printing, I'll probably invest in this stuff.
Yep --- PLA is incredibly forgiving in that way, at least on glass :) for anything else, this stuff really does the trick!
I don't need glue sticks but I watch every video. keep em coming guys another great vid!
I recently graduated to ABS printing and quickly discovered that it won't stick to my mirror tile for crap. So watching this video among others the consensus was hair spray or glue stick. Glue stick ended up being the slickest material ever and I have no clue how anyone can use it. Hair spray was like magic and works very well and clean up is a breeze in the kitchen sink with a drop of dish soap and hot water it washes right off.
I impulse bought a bottle of their stuff at Micro Center the other day and yes, it is pricy, but it works super super well. Holds my prints in place and the completed prints come off nice and easy after they cool. Well worth the price to save yourself some frustration.
Thanks guys! I needed that reinforcement
sweet and straight forward guide, cheers
I've been doing this since my second day of having a printer and things not sticking. This video makes me think I should take a bit more care though. I just spread it all over and which way, globs and everything! I guess I've been lucky over the last 12 months but glue stick works an absolute treat.
thankyou for this video, i haven't got your product yet but it really helped me by properly explaining how to use a glue stick, and my prints are like night and day
Thank you! You saved my prints! 💞💞💞
Glad I could help!
Gah! Thank you for this! I’ve been looking for someone to make this video lol. I’ve been having horrible luck with bed adhesion.
How long should I wait after applying the glue stick? Should be tacky when I start the printing? Thanks
Did a quick search on Google for 3D printer glue sticks and the Elmer's disappearing purple one was mentioned, and this video on the side; I guess it's sufficient since you had it in your picture, but good to know about the cross hatching thing too I guess
Yeah, most glue sticks work. Nano Polymer Adhesive works better :)
@@VisionMiner perhaps at some point, for now I gotta go with the cheapest thing that works 🤷🏿♀️
How about for textured plates? I can't imagine the razors being such a great idea..
does it matter what kind of glue stick it is?
Now I need a CNC to put the glue 😂
I just found out that applying glue stick gave me a case of electrostatic charge that unstick the thin filament from the bed and make it stick to the nozzle.
Amazing😄😄🤲
How do i request a frew sample because that seems so much easier
Would elmers glue sticks work the same ?
Generally, yes. Different blends are different, but people use the purple and regular all the time for materials like PLA :)
I am relatively new to 3D printing and recently replaced my stock build plate with the "upgraded" glass plate that the company(Creality/Ender 3) claims can be used without any adhesive; it has the textured coating that is supposed to increase adhesion as it heats. So the problem is that the first 10-15 mm of filament (cheap PLA) gets dragged by the print head before it starts to stick regardless of where I start my print then the print head will catch that bit that didn't stick as it comes back around and ruins my entire first layer and my whole print in turn, of course. I have been unable to successfully print a single thing on this glass plate. I have tweaked, untweaked and retweaked every initial layer/speed/temp setting in my slicer (Cura AND Orca slicers), adjusted nozzle and bed temps, tried turning of the AC in my workshop in case ambient temperature was somehow a factor and virtually every video I have watched hits on the same tips and tricks, etc. I really want to be able to use and love a glass plate because of how rigid it is and how easily prints come off, at least those bits of filament that DOES stick but at this point I am ready to just use this printer as a terrarium warmer for my tarantula.
do you need windex and alcohol or will just the alcohol do
Really just water will do, windex and alcohol are extra -- alcohol helps get every last little bit of stuff off the bed.
Bro 😎 = thanks man
4:19 Look at the "Oh shit, I've never waxed my car" face 😂
Does this work with a heated bed, or should I turn off the bed for this application?
It needs a heated bed to work :)
Can I clean the glass while on the printer or must the glass be removed first
Will glue stick work on an unheated bed?
I am using your product with ABS but it will not stick! I have had failure after failure. What am I doing wrong?
so you glue stick then you put back on the machine and level it?
Generally you should level before applying it, since it leaves a squishy layer, but you can just adjust z-offset a bit for that. That's why we love the nano adhesive.... it's so thin, it doesn't affect leveling :)
I recently bought an Artillery Sidewinder X3 Plus. My first several prints didn't have any adhesion problems, but then I started having problems. I don't know what my build plate is made of, but it is magnetic. My main concern, though, is that it's not smooth - it has a texture to it. Right now I'm still struggling with getting the bed leveled and using glue stick. Do you recommend glue stick for a textured bed or would something else work better?
Can you guys tell me the name of the music track you’ve used in the background of this video ?
better say in horizontal direction and then right angle to first, will try any way, cheers
Outstanding video :-) Can I use glue for TPU on a glass bed with no heating ?
Without heat is difficult, but TPU may work with low heat -- usually we don't use anything on the heated bed with TPU, and our glue doesn't work well without heat, so that's a conundrum.... :)
Does the glue stick or your product work with textured plates, or will it mess those up my gunking up the texture?
Both do work, although Nano Adhesive doesn't build up the same way Glue Stick will, so you get a better texture generally. Textured can be Build-Tak style, Textured PEI, and others.
Went to website and couldnt get the Free Sample?
One direction, but back and forth.. up then down? -- or is it one single contiguous line in a weave/ loop?
It really just needs to be an even coating on the plate, and generally the cross-hatch pattern is the best way to do that :)
Can I use this on an ender 3? Thr printer has a piece of I guess plastic that you can peel off to remove prints. Can I use thr glue on that?
Can one use hair spray
Do you have a solution for if you get your prints stuck to the bed without waiting for the glue to dry? Cuz I just tried the glue stick for the first time without waiting for it to dry and now my test cube for my artillery printer is stuck pretty solidly
Do you apply the glue while the bed is cool or hot or doesn't it matter
For glue stick, while it's cold.
For Nano Polymer Adhesive, both work, but at over 100c you'll see some boiling which can create a totally different interface layer, which we do use for certain high-temp applications :)
I use a wet sponge and use a circular motion over the existing glue and dry it with a hair dryer, works like a champ if I need more glue then I apply over the old and use a wet sponge over it again, no need to clean off the old glue.
I used to use glustick but got sick of cleaning the prints, I now use 3D LAC and the prints just need to be wiped with a damp micro fibre cloth
Question , how thick are the glass plates you are using ?
3-5mm thick
so dumb question but when should you clean the glue stick off the base plate?
when you re-apply, yes. That's why we like the nano... doesn't leave a huge mess to clean off!
When I want to put print out of the printer is it better to having hot bed or cold ?
I glue just the necessary area size for the print, not the entire glass.
i heat bed to 80, put a layer of hot melt glue on bed...then turn off heat all-together, wait till it hits under 40 then print...with cold bed cura bed set to 0...when you have finished print heat up again to 80 then remove...simple..
Can I use hair spray
oh really because when it dry like there nothing there and the filament just slides around
I know I'm 3 years late, but I'm new to 3d printing. Why doesn't the heat plate do its job with adhesion for PLA?
I've had my printer for 2 weeks now and nothing seems to be sticking any longer. I have a Ankermake M5 and the original base plate. I've cleaned the base several times with alcohol and a fiber towel. I feel this is poor manufacturing. Should I buy a glass bed to go over the heating tray.
It's not poor manufacturing -- whatever the plate had on it before has worn away, and using adhesives on the build plate is standard practice :) For SOME blends of PLA (that's important to note -- they're all different, with different additives, pigments, etc), they can stick to some types of beds (glass, PEI, etc), for very basic prints, with only the heated bed. Heck, some beds can stick cold. But it only ever lasts so long, and it has a breaking point based on the thickness and size of the part. If you want to guarantee the success of a print, and not leave it to chance with a large one, snag a bottle of our Nano Polymer Adhesive and rest easy knowing your parts are sticking through the whole print! :)
Is that ok for the Carborandum Bed on the Ender 3d v2?
US$5 for a sample of your adhesive.
US$125 for shipping to Australia?!?!
Are you INSANE?
:O
No, but UPS shipping to Australia is insane, you should know that, living there.... anything from the USA is expensive to ship, and that's why we have dealers and distributors INSIDE Australia for our product -- a little bit of research and you'd find the page :) visionminer.com/resellers
What about heated beds? I would think they melt the glue?
just asking how many prints can you get from the glue stick before having to clean and do the method over again
Just a few prints. Because some glue sticks to the part's bottom layer. I always apply glue while the glass bed is cold or mild warm (max 40 oC), otherwise the glue melts and leaves a thick uneven layer.
I've only been using painters wash.
I know I’m 2 years late, but can I apply glue on the Ender 3’s base?
Yes :)
No need for half of what they did. Just apply a quick coat of glue stick and print. It comes clean by running warm water over the plate and drying with a paper towel. Much cheaper than anything else.
it’s simply amazing that those guys have no clue how glue has to be cleaned yet they “teach” others. That glue is best cleaned with a sponge, hot water and dish soap. No blades, no alcohol. Just try.
How many print jobs can you do on an application of glue stick? Do you have you have to clean and reapply between each job?
For PLA / PETG, we've done 50+ prints on a single application -- no washing, no reapplication. For Nylon / PC / ABS, and up into the high-temp PEEK/ULTEM, generally we just add some more to the plate without washing, but if wanted, it easily washes off with water :)
Vision Miner does the glue have to dry before you can print on it
One question. How prints can you get out of one aplication? Do I have to re-apply the glue stick on every print?
When you print an object and take it off, some of the glue that was on the bed comes off with the object. So if you don’t put the glue again, you may have some lack of glue where the previous object was printed.😊
What type of glue can i use
Most of them work, we can say Staples brand works, or you can get some elmers on Amazon. Or, of course, you can grab a sample at visionminer.com/sample for $5+$5 shippping, that 10ml will get you hundreds of prints in PLA, probably more than gluestick at the same price! (that's what our customers are saying, anyway, I've personally done 50+ prints on a single coating :))
How do you get the free sample?
I have an Aquila where the print bed isn't just glass, it has a dotted layer on it. Is it still okay to put glue on it? Maybe I should turn it over...
Yes, both options should work fine :)
Same procedure for magnetic bed?
essentially, yes!
@@VisionMiner Thanks 👍
My printer does not have a heated bed.Should i buy a glass bed or it actually has an effect if you have a heated bed?
Heated is not the suface -- glass is a surface material. Glass beds are usually heated, most beds are usually heated. Glass is simply an option :)
Hey Guys, Can I keep the glue on for a few prints or I have to wipe it down and reapply every print? I use the textured PEI plate for the P1P
You can maybe keep it on for a few prints, but keep in mind that each time you print, some glue is being removed with the object. Wherever the previous object was printed, there is less glue.
I am interested, How many prints can you do with your product for one application?
It's different for each material, but generally PLA/PETG can go 15-50+ prints on a single coating, without re-applying :) This is variable because the more you smash the first layer into the bed, the more it takes the coating -- but if your z-offset is perfect, it lasts an incredibly long time!
@@VisionMiner awesome! Thank you I will order the sample!
Should I clean the glue off after each use or will it be good for several uses?
Depends on the material, but you can add more glue stick if needed. Eventually it will build up and create an un-level surface, so you'll need to clean it. That's one reason we love our Nano Polymer Adhesive, for PLA/PETG you can use a single coating many many times, 50+ times in my testing, and it goes down super super smooth, and then washes off with water :)
I just ordered PVP based glue sticks. Seems that glue sticks are alot different.
Will glue stick work if I'm using a Ziflex magnetic bed?
steal one
5:10 That looks AND sounds like he's scratching a turntable 😄
specific kind of glue? also how often do you need to apply the glue?
Generally any glue sticks work, Elmers works good, and if you need something more robust, Nano Polymer Adhesive works great -- application frequency depends on the material though, so PLA/PETG can get 40+ prints, whereas ABS only a few prints, and high-temps like PEEK we re-apply each time with the Nano Adhesive.
I'd like a free sample...
Do you still heat the bed? Heard yes, and heard only in summer, heard no... What's the deal?
How do I get a free sample?
hey - dude on the left - shh - he's got this.
Go both directions by going up n down and across "to make sure you dont miss any spots"
Cant you see with the first application of glue if you missed any spots?
does this work with non-glass plates?
Yep!
So, about this "Nano Polymer Adhesive"... What's the story here. I found the MSDS safety sheet and the only substance listed is 2-propanol (AKA isopropyl alcohol). Thats it. No other ingredients, nothing. So you charge $49USD for 100ml of alcohol? That can't be right. Can it?
Patent Pending, thus the MSDS does not have all ingredients listed. However, all other compounds are safe and organic, so they are not listed. :)
If alcohol worked to stick PEEK to the bed, we'd have been out of business a long time ago :)
@@VisionMiner Uh huh... OK. So "safe and organic"? Organic in the description of lettuce at the grocery store means something completely different when described in chemistry which is the context of Safety Data Sheets. Take a Organic Chemistry class if you don't believe me. I just take exception to a sales pitch for a very expensive product that doesn't really tell me anything. So... What is in it that makes it special? Why is this better than just using some ABS dissolved in acetone? You're asking for Fifty Dollars. Make me believe it's not snake oil.
@@ew7007 Hmmmm.... hard to make you believe anything, but you can look at the loads of positive reviews on Facebook, Google, and our website... also used and sold by Matterhackers, promoted by TH3D, and many others... And yes, organic food is different from organic compounds, meaning grown without pesticides and herbicides lol... it's not petroleum based, if that makes a difference. I don't know exactly what makes it so special, but whatever our material scientists did, it happens to work all the way from PEEK to PLA, and nothing else does that... making it, well, magic! :D It's not snake oil, though, we're real dudes out here in California doing everything we can to make 3D Printing these performance thermoplastics easier :)
@@VisionMiner Magic...?
I have been doing this, but I let the bed heat dry the glue out.
JMTAUL does the glue have to dry before you can print on it
@@clarehawley8728 yes
Nice video guys😅
I have a question, how do i remove my prints if they get stuck in the glass.
I just printed a cool skull but it got stuck on the print and I read have no idea how to get it off the glass. Any recommendations?
Run water over it --- when you do get it off, check the first layer, you're most likely printing a bit too close :)
@@VisionMiner what does printing too close mean?
I'm new to printing and struggling with getting the levelling right
If you know that your item your printing doesn't require the whole plate can you just apply the glue stick to a smaller area?
Absolutely -- it only matters for the area where the print will be :)
Yes, often I will first let the skirt print to show me where I need glue.
Hot water throuGh the kitchen sink sprayer works just fine...