Change Electronic Digital Safe Lock with a Mechanical Safe Lock for Gun Safe Liberty Safe
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- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- Liberty Safe Lock Replacement.
Will work on Liberty Safes.
Change electronic safe lock to mechanical. Replace the digital keypad on a gun safe with a combination mechanical lock. Install Sargent & Greenleaf Model Mechanical Safe Lock Kit. Step-by-step removal of the digital lock and installation adjustment and combination selection on a gun safe.
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This video probably got a new lease on life with recent events.
Hey buddy, it actually had been doing pretty well but it just went through the roof about a week ago. Amazing. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
You may be getting a lot more hits on this video very soon.
I'm here due to the Liberty Safe crap.
If I can put a mechanical lock on mine for now, it will help me until I can buy a bigger and better brand later.
I changed mine out because I didn’t want any risk of an EMP blast. How far fetched that is I don’t know, but I went with Mechanico cause it’s failsafe. The liberty safe giving the info to the FBI. It is terrible. I was so sorry to hear about that. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
That's why I'm here.
Yep, same here.
Same…buyers remorse on Liberty…
Same here. How much did all that cost you to have that new lock installed?
Not only do you NOT have to worry about electronic failures or replacing batteries, you have just EMP proofed your safe.
So in the case of an EMP happening, you will still be able to get to anything you need from your safe when you need it.
Yes Siri you are so right. That was the impetus for us to move ahead with this replacement. Thanks for your comment.
Not only all that, but it prevents Liberty safe from giving the FBI a backdoor into your safe without a warrant.
They now make electronic locks that are EMP-proof.
@@ThePriceIsRising No they're not EMP Proof. They just claim that.
I bought a S&G mechanical lock off of eghay which was a take-off from a new safe. I installed it per the instructions on the S&G install video. I didn't have an alignment tool so I aligned the bezel like in this video. A couple of points for those who want to save money by buying a take-off lock: First, make sure the shaft on the lock you buy is long enough for your safe. Take-off locks have the shaft already cut so you may find the shaft is too short. Second, the take-off lock is going to have one set of mounting screws, either long or short, but not both. For my safe I needed the short screws but the lock came with the long ones. I cut the screws to the required length and all is good. The other way around isn't going to work so well. Also the take-off lock isn't going to come with a change tool so if you want to change the combo you can buy a tool from MBA USA for less than 20 bucks shipped.
what safe you have I'm thinking about going the s&g route but know nothing about locks and if its a down grade for my liberty but just want it to be reliable dat care about warranty more about emp and thieves
Thank you great advice. I bought my new so it had the long shaft, multiple length screws, and the change tool. When you buy one that is a takeoff lock you can get just what you mentioned. No question that the takeoff lock will be less expensive than you got some potential issues. Thanks again. Consider subscribing. Take care Joe
I love Safes... Yet simple but secure mechanism ....
Yes, I went from digital to manual and I feel better about it as well. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
My wife and I went for the mechanical lock because it looked vintage. I’m glad we did!
Hey buddy, thanks for your comment. Yes I think you made a good choice particularly considering what’s going on today. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
, with the Liberty Safe incident. This video is now more relevant than ever.!
Thank you very much for your comment. The number of views on this video since September 5 has been dramatic. I appreciate everyone’s interested. I hope you found the video helpful. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Great Video. Thank You for puttin this out!
Hey Garrett, thanks for your nice comment. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
You made the better choice anyway. Those S&G electronic locks are absolute trash..... I will always opt for a manual dial every time; plus you never need any batteries lol. The S&G mechanical lock is the best 😁
Thanks for your comment. I was always afraid that the electronic lock would fail because I’ve heard many instances where they do then you’ve got to drill your safe.
That's exactly what I did the day my liberal safe back in june
LoL. I have a Sportsman Steel Safe with an LaGard electronic lock for 22 years. I change the $5.00 battery every year. Zero problems. That being said, I will be replacing that lock with another electronic lock that is EMP-proof.
@@ThePriceIsRising 22 years is a hell of a run for an electronic lock. Most electronic locks are lucky if they make it past 6 years of heavy use (ie locks in banks); but most residential safes rarely get the day to day abuse. What usually kills a lock is moisture, a battery destroying the terminals or a failed solenoid. The best kind of lock to get would be something that is redundant. They have locks that are mechanical and electronic combined. You get the ease of use with a keypad, and a mechanical dial as the backup.
Thank you for your comment. Yes I’ve had a number of comments that my installer was not a true professional again of one reason that I did not do that myself. My lock works great, however after the install, and I think that some terms were not used correctly, but thank you for pointing that out. I really really appreciate that. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
Headphone warning at 9:30.
Good video, thanks for sharing this.
This video just became way more relevant
Thank you Bob I appreciate that. I hope it was helpful. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
This video was ahead of its time ! Liberty 👀
Hey, thank you for the nice comment. Ironically, my wife was concerned about EMP disruption of the digital lock, so I switched to a mechanical lock. Funny how things happen. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Liberty needs the bud light treatment.
I think you’re totally right. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
I got rid of the mechanical dial and went with the electronic keypad type and never looked back! I’m in and out of my safe at least 3-4 times per day, each day. My S&G mechanical spin-dial gave up the ghost and wouldn’t let me open my safe half the time. The pins got loose due to daily manipulation, multiple times per day. With the electronic keypad, this problem has been eliminated. I’m not worried about an EMP. If an EMP goes off, you have waaaay more problems to contend with than getting into your gun safe. Kiss your a$$ goodbye in that case, because more ICBM’s will be enroute shortly and neither you nor the safe aren’t going to matter anymore.
Thank you for your comment. I understand the convenience of the digital keypad. No question about it. I’m glad it’s working well for you. Consider subscribing. Take care, Joe.
@@banthamnobilis8147 after the video I change the combination, so it’s OK. Thanks for your attention however. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
I’m switching mine now. Liberty Safes are not safe.
Good to know. Thank you. I hope that video was useful. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
@@JosephHunstad Will do Joe. Liberty Safe recently gave a “master code” to the FBI to get into a customers safe. So everyone upset at them.
@@4NaturesStory oh, man that’s terrible. I did not know that. Yeah that’s not good. Time to change it up.
Even though my is not a Liberty, the fact that the electronic lock has a backdoor code that I can't change is not acceptable to me. I just ordered an S&G mechanical lock.
Yes I did too!
Y’all were worried about the master reset code for the wrong reason. If law enforcement has a warrant for the contents of your safe, they’ll call a safe technician and have it drilled open.
Never considered the EMP thing. Great idea.
Hey buddy, thanks for your comment. I hope it never happens but if it does, it’ll be truly bad. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
If it does happen, Im convinced it will be orchestrated by our own government. Thats for sure.@@JosephHunstad
@@bradley8apig461 you’re probably right thanks for your comment Joe
I have bought AMSEC CF5524 TL-30 rated safe and it has ESL10 electric lock which I don’t like it. Dealer gave the option of a Dial Combination lock or SecuRam SafeLogic Extreme Redundant lock. Do you know anything about this Redundant lock and it’s reliability over Dial Lock on this AMSEC CF5524 safe. Appreciate your response..!
Hey buddy, thank you for your comment. I understand the concern of an electronic lock. That’s why I changed mine. I am not very familiar with extreme redundant lock, however. I wish I had more information to help. Sorry. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
Enjoyed the video. I have a similiar Fort Knox executive with biometric electronic lock. What model S&G lock did you get with key access as well. Can most locksmiths perform this install and approximately what was the charge to do so ? Thanks
Thank you for your comment. The key does not open the safe it simply locks or unlocks the ability to turn the dial. It is an added layer of safety in the event you are out of town or gone from the safe for a while. Yes a reasonable locksmith can do this replacement very nicely and the cost is about $130 I believe.
The S&G lock I purchased came directly from Fort Knox. I called them and ordered it and received it very quickly.
Take care - Joe
@@JosephHunstad Thanks so much. What is that Lockdown piece you have on the safe?
@@hollidaydoc45 The lockdown piece is a magnetic movable piece that allows you to rest your guns on the safe so they won’t tip over Also won’t scratch the safe
@@hollidaydoc45 My new combination lock is a three number lock.
@@JosephHunstad Great idea.
Nice job. What year was that hefty FT. Knox safe built??
Hey buddy great question. I think I got that safe more than 20 years ago. It's been absolutely fantastic I love it I also have a Bass Pro safe that's good but not the quality of this one. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe
This video was prophetic, considering the recent Liberty Safe voluntarily surrendering the "backdoor" digital access code to the FBI.
Thank you very much for your comment. Yes it seems that that video was needed and I’m glad I have it out there. I think the step-by-step instructions will help to do it yourself or to make the change. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Will the S&G 6730-100 Series Lock work on a Cannon Safe?
It probably will but I would check first with SMG to be sure it’s compatible. Typically these locks have a very similar construction with the mounting bolts and the dialing. Lev are all in the same location.
It's best to go with a analog mechanical combo lock, due to the debacle that Liberty Safe did when they gave the access codes to the Feds.
That’s a very good comment. After that Liberty safe problem the number of views of this video has dramatically gone up. Thank you for watching. Consider subscribing. Take care, joe.
Joe, do you have an email? I have a few concerns about this install.........
what a great video!! I never thought about EMP part. I just today went and got a digital keypad for my liberty safe and now am having bigtime second thoughts about even using it thanks to your awesome video and bring to light about the EMP part. thanks so much!!
Fantastic comment Todd. Thank you so much. Yes that’s why I changed from digital to mechanical. When you install a mechanical, you can change the combination which can make opening it. Pretty darn quick, so that’s what I’ve done. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
@@JosephHunstad well to this day the digital one is still collecting dust on the shelf... thanks again
What is the "Lockdown" to the right of the new mechanical dial?
OK good question. That lockdown is a magnetic. Standoff that you can lean your gun against so you’re gonna won’t fall over.
"never fail" is an overstatement, they do fail but MUCH less than the Elocks from almost ANY brand. A true "safe tech" will use a dial ring alignment tool DRAT tool it keeps things true & centered, also no use of loctite on the body or cover screws? He's calling wheels dials?? lever a hammer.. geez. I couldn't make out the spline handing I hope he installed it in the VD location. FYI They leave the factory with 50 on all 3 wheels. A typical charge(from my company) with the lock included would be $250 to $300 depending on location.
Thank you for your comment. Yes your insight is very appreciated. I feel a lot more comfortable with the mechanical dial than the electronic dial it as you’ve said it’s much more reliable. Thanks so much Joe
aside from the deal with the override code, i have had an E lock fail. drilled access to override the lock, took 20 minutes maybe. i now only use dials, but these safes are not huge obstacle with knowledge and time. however they do stop smash and grab and children. kids alone make them worth their cost.
btw, if you clad your safe 1/4" plate. that is a much more formidable obstacle. and if that cladding is ar500 plate in the spots that matter, you better have carbide and diamonds to get in. nothing else is getting through that.
Great comment. Thank you so much. Yes, I understand the limitation with the safes but for child protection they’re great. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
Will it woek on cannon safe?
Yes, these mechanical locks could be switched out with virtually any safe because the lot connections through the safe Door are the same with the electronic as they are with the mechanical. Take care.
S&G digital keypads are EMP resistant.
Hey buddy, thank you for your comment. I was not aware of that, but I went total mechanical just for my own peace of mind and security. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
I've had two of those electronic locks on my safe fail (mechanically, inside via the jackscrew). I begged Fort Knox to send me a mechanical lock but they said that I wasn't qualified to change it out, despite my extensive mechanical/technical background as a machinist and mechanical engineer. Still no...
Having seen this video, they are absolutely stupid, I could EASILY do that job. I kept waiting for the "hard" part, or the "secret" part.... Nope, that was no more challenging than swapping out the E-lock!
😡
Hey buddy, you are so correct. I know you can change it out. No problem in the project is actually a lot of fun. Thanks again for your comment. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
I need a mechanical for my Winchester Tactical..
I think it’s the safest way to go. There are many sources. I got mine from Fort Knox and it fit in my Fort Knox say but also my best pro safe as well. They’re pretty standard.
Wow i bet the guy who the atf opened his liberty safe wish he watched youre vodeo
Okay buddy that is too funny.You're probably right though!! Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe
Did I miss something, or did you just show us your combination?
We demonstrated one combination then I changed it. Thank you for being so observant. I’m impressed. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
They do fail my S&G has been giving me issues opening lately
Thank you asked for an excellent comment. Yes I know these electronic combinations will probably all eventually fail. another good reason to consider mechanical lock. Take care Joe
I have a Mosler. I need a 6 B
The locksmith that I’m working with told me that that’s the only lock I need I can’t use anything else
I’m not sure if that’s true or not. These are actually quite standardized. Might be worth a second opinion. Typically the fittings are such that these lacks fit many safes, and the safes can handle either the mechanical or the electronic. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
My electronic lock failed and liberty is replacing it with their mechanical one for free with free install. Everyone should go do that
Hey Eli, that’s great news. I’m really glad that worked out really well for you. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Will it work on Winchester?
This is a good question. All safe Vlokh seem to be very similar in their orientation with their openings for the bolts that hold them in place as well as the lock or turning mechanism. Yes I think it will work for Winchester as well. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
Thx, just subscribed
“EMP” is not the 3 letter federal agency you need to worry about…
You are absolutely right. When I filmed that video, the liberty say, fiasco had not yet occurred but we all know what the issue is today. Thanks for your comment. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Joe buying a new medium sized home gun safe and think I'm going to do exactly this. Don"t trust the electronic way. Looks paying a locksmith is they way to go. Not an average DIY job.
I agree with you. I didn’t want any risk of locking myself out. And the beauty with a Locksmith as you can tell him exactly what code you want, and they can set it up for you. I’m glad you found this useful. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
@@JosephHunstad I've found out the specific safe I'm going to buy, Big Horn made by Rhino Safes, does not accept manual locks. Oh well the safe is the size and price point I want. Will have to wait if so.
He didn’t know the difference between the fence and the gate?
The part that he was pointed to is actually called the “spindle”, and the part that threads onto it is called the “cam”.
The part that he called, the “hammer” is actually called the “lever”.
He also did not clock the cam properly or else your combo would have been 50, not 15. This is because he installed the cam in the LH (left hand) position, not VD (vertical down) like the lock is mounted. The cam should have been backed out a quarter turn.
The secondary re-locker is not for if someone tries to drill through the back of the lock. It’s for if someone tries to punch the lock out through the spindle hole and knocks the the lock body off.
I hope that he at least kept the last number out of the “forbidden zone“, which would now be 70 and 95, instead of 95 and 20.
You make a great point we’ve had a number of issues with the video. The reason I asked a locksmith to go through this because I knew that would be some controversy with this. I think some of the terms as you know, we miss you and I apologize for that but thank you for bringing that up. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
Welp I am locked out of my own safe. So yeah ill be installing one of these soon.
Oh man that is such a bummer I’m sorry to hear about that but yeah you’ll love your new mechanical lock set and you’ll never have that problem again. I have a link in my description to the sergeant and Green. Mechanical lock set. It’s a good value. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe
All electronic locks made after August of 2019 are EMP resistant.
Hey, thank you for your comment. I was not aware of that. We simply felt more secure with a mechanical locked. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Don’t believe everything they tell you. Confirm things like that on your own just to be 100% sure.
Well I know what brand of power tools that smith likes
Milwaukee is pretty good
@syitiger9072 yeah I like them too. Been using a plug in drill by Milwaukee for years. It just keeps on truckin
Yeah I use a corded Milwaukee drill and jigsaw, when needed. They are over twenty years old and still working.
Why in the world this was installed incorrectly, spline key position is not correct?
Protip for the spindle length: it is always a set distance from the lock mounting surface, so measure door thickness and and this known number to it and cut the spindle, no need to install it by threading it on and off.
You make a really good point. The reason that I had a locksmith do this as I knew I was going to get quite a bit of controversy generated by this. Your point is correct it could’ve been done better and it was an ideal, but it does work well and I hope you found the video somewhat useful. Thanks for your Analysis, which is right on. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
A combo dial with a key backup is unwise. The key is much easier to pick than the combo.
Thank you for your comment. Yes there is a risk with a key. No question about it. That could be picked but you have safety with respect to potential EMP blast or other digital lock failure. Thank you for your comment. Consider subscribing. Take care. Joe.
Dang bro.. did you time travel a year into the future, a year ago, then go back and make this video?
Hey, great question. It seems like I did but at the time my wife had concerns about not being able to get into the safe because of an electronic keypad failure for whatever reason so I switch to mechanical because I think they’re just simply more reliable?
Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
Nice guy but it's really cringy when I see someone starting screws or bolts like that with a power tool instead of getting them started by hand properly to insure the threads aren't crossed. I find lots of ruined bolts from bubbas doing exactly this 🤦🏻♂️
Thank you for your comment. Yes I agree. I would normally hand start these, of course before starting a power tool to ensure that there’s no cross threading or stripping. Yes this was a video of a Locksmith I hired and that was his way. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Also the tech is wrong, that is not the fence and a gate....... The SPINDLE is threading through the DRIVE CAM which is held in place with a SPLINE KEY........
Thank you for your comment. You were absolutely right. Sometimes when you film with just one take some things get mixed up. Thanks for your observation. Take care - Joe
@@JosephHunstad if you have an email, I'd still like to send some concerns. Things to check and be aware of.
Pretty sure the locksmith was referring to the parts of the wheel and lock that line up when the combination is correctly dialed open.
The video is a year old...but has lots of recent views. Can't imagine why! LOL!
Yes, the video exploded after the Liberty Safe debacle. I hope you found it useful. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
The guy needs to go buy a dial ring alignment tool. And extend the bolt before starting to install.
hello Briguygotnicethighs!
Thanks for your comment. Yes this person is a "professional locksmith" and that's why I videotaped him doing the install and not me. Your comments are absolutely justified and I agree with that. There were also a few other things that were of concern. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe
What happens in a break in and you go get your guns and your forget the number you could get shot
So that’s a problem for sure. If you’re a student of firearm preparedness while at home, you would always have your weapon ready to go on you or immediately accessible. Having to get into your safe whether it’s a digital or mechanical code is probably not going to help you in a case of time. Sensitive emergency. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Looks like the safe is at the front door so unless the perp is waiting for you to open the door getting to the safe before the perp isn't likely.
I wouldn't have a safe with anything but a mechanical lock.
Hey, thanks for your comment. You’re probably correct. That’s why I changed out. One thing that’s so great with the mechanical locks that is you can set your own combination and you can have the same combo on all of your mechanical locks. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.
The amount of money we spend on safes shouldn’t require us to have a garbage keypad lock.
You are so totally right. The digital keypad is actually pretty weak. Change it to mechanical one is obviously the answer for security and probably reliability. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Have a Liberty Safe.I will be calling 2 safe lock companies in my area Monday to have my lock changed to mechanical combination. Originally wanted mechanical,but new to safes and got talked out of it by salesman. Live and learn. If I knew Liberty would have pulled something like what they did.Would never have purchased from them.
@@StevenSmith-pt8rz I hear you loud and clear. It’s fun to watch the locksmith do his job. You can learn a lot. You can customize your lock combination. Take care. joe.
No thank you sir !
ATTENTION LIBERTY SAFE OWNERS😆
Yes sir you’ve got that right. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
You just went from a conveniant digital keypad to a PITA mechanical lock. You should of just bought an EMP proof S&G digital keypad
Thank you for your comment. When you look at S&Gs website it is EMP resistant not proof. Probably really really good however thank you for your comment it would’ve been a good alternative. I was not aware of it when I did this. Thank you Joe
@@JosephHunstad Hey Dr. Joe thanks for your reply! Do you know if it is OK if I can only install the bottom two screws when mounting the new lock body? My old lock body & keypad that died the top 3rd hole on the lock body is on the opposite side where their is no hole tapped & I dont have an M6 tap (not even sure the thread pitch on the new screws).
@@Metalhead-4life I’ve been pondering your question for quite a while Jay
As long as the lock remain secure it doesn’t shift it should be fine. I would absolutely use Loctite or something else to permanently lock those two screws in place but as long as you’re not too rough with it it will probably be OK. This is my opinion I’m not an expert. Take care Joe
Hahahaha, this poor guy may want to delete his comment now, Joe. The Liberty safe ordeal just proved exactly who a digital lock is convenient for...
@scbane except now any lockpick can open the safe via the keyhole now.
Really piss them off. Buy a small safe put a note in it. Buy a little bigger safe put small safe inside that and continue doing same then over and over. So when “they” show up, “they” will be there a while opening all the dummy safes up. 😂😂😂
Hey, that would be something. Thanks for your comment. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
Unfortunately I don't want ANY strangers seeing my safes.
Yes, I understand that. I actually made this video so that you as the homeowner could actually replace the locking mechanism yourself. Let me know if that works. Take care, Joe.
Way to much hype over this by switching over to a dial access…the digital is much quicker. Plus I unlock my safe as soon as I get home for quick access.🤠
Hey, thanks for your comment you’re probably right. One nice thing about the mechanical locks that you can set the numbers yourself so all of my mechanical locks are the same which has been helpful for me. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
I can confidently say that 8 out of 10 safe jobs that I do are for failed electronic locks.
Thank you very much for your comment. Yes, I wanted to avoid that problem. Your comment gives credence to this video application. Consider subscribing. Thanks. Joe.
Bad idea do not change that do not put anything electrical anything like that in there bad idea
Hey Brenda, thanks for your comment. Yes a mechanical lock is failsafe basically in the electronic locks can’t fail and apparently can have a back door code. Consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
What guy charge,you to change it out. How long did it take
We changed out to locks for to save said it was a couple hundred dollars I believe
Thank you good info what is cost I will go forward.
The Fort Knox brand mechanical safe combo is about 195. You can probably get it cheaper at other places. I would go to Sargent and Greenleaf first. consider subscribing. Thanks Joe.
I would NEVER replace mechanical with Digital.............Only a fool would do this.
Thank you for your comment. I agree this video was to replace a digital with the mechanical, not the other way around. The beauty of the mechanical safe is that you can select your own code and there’s no risk of the safe company sharing your code with someone you don’t want. Consider subscribing. Thanks, Joe.