I love this channel. Helping a dumb ass like me learn how my engine works, avoid expensive repairs and even get my hands a little dirty. Please keep these videos coming 🙏
Thank you for the view and that awesome comment. Some views don't like the way I repeat myself. It comes from being an instructor for 40 years. Thank you again.
The old school hot rodders used crankcase ventilation. Something very similar to the PCV concept, to get more horsepower. A 3/8 pipe cut at a 45-degree angle; the longest part of that angle pointed towards the front of the car. Welded into the header collector. A 90-degree elbow with a check valve and hose leading to a ported valve cover breather. I was amazed at how much vacuum it created...
@@codyhatch4607 Both are negative I suppose. The only difference with the PCV is the vacuum is coming from the intake manifold instead of the header exhaust.
I was watching this at 2x speed at first. Then I slowed down when he started showing the diagrams of the pcv system; I appreciated his repetitiveness at this point. I'm having some car trouble, and what do you know, my car is a 4 cylinder with a blown pcv hose 😂. Thank you for helping me understand more about what could be causing my engine light, leaking gaskets, and blown pcv hose. Definitely replaying this video again.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 after watching this,I actually went out and did a paper test and it failed. 1 hour later and a new PCV and my truck is running right. Now I know what and how a PCV works. Thank you!
Awesome lesson !! Teaching us everything exactly the right way to get strong in the profession. It shows how much you care - for our sakes . So good of ya ! It is invaluable .
Excellent video! I always wondered what the hell the PCV does and now I know. I've always replaced it on my Astro van and my Lexus GS 300, but I never knew why. I like how you explain things clearly and succinctly. And your wit and dry sense of humor are terrific! 😊
I stopped the video at 1 minute 19 seconds. I have no tolerance for that condescending tone. It wasn’t all in gest, it was being ugly for the sake of being ugly. It does what it says it does. It allows air to circulate through the crank case to maintain correct pressure inside the crankcase. Hence the name “positive crankcase ventilation valve”.
Thank you, sir. I've been working on cars for 45 years and was blessed with friends and family who were mechanics. They taught me plenty but never heard of the paper test. Thank you, sir I'm fixing to Bing watch your videos. Ps I did the automotive service technology course at nwscc in 2000 to learn about obd2 our instructors were awesome, and ASE certified, too. I'm a carpenter for a paycheck but machines are my love. Onwards thru the fog brother. Cheers
I just did this test in my Chevy V8 LS3 because I was suspicious about something wrong with the PCV valve. Test resulted just as in the video. So, PCV valve is ok. Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge Sir!
Dear friend. You are top person in my book, besides a top technitian olso. I have owned a shop for 53 years and I never riched a level of knolege like you. I love your videos. Thanks
This is a pretty easy valve. Accumulating unburnt fuel gasses and hot oil vapor trapped in the crankcase need somewhere to go. If you think your engine wants to inhale that stuff, you probably eat your own shit too.
Great job , your total explanation in each phase of the PCV cycle helps the DIYer understand and Not memorize, that's what great teachers do, thanks I'll be checking out your future videos!
I just purchased a used 2017 Honda Accord Sport 2.4L Inline 4 cyl. This is my 1st time owning a modern inline 4cyl... I was told to replace the PCV valve every 30,000 miles. Seems reasonable enough, as the PCV valve is very easy to replace on this engine. Thank you for explaining the reasons for this important maintenance!
Yep it the earth dreams engine be careful because they’re notorious oil burners as a matter of fact the Chinese government banned that engine from china I don’t know if Honda has resolved the issue with the Chinese government or not but Scotty Kilmer has a video on the engine and it’s issue with oil burn one way to tell look at your tail pipes an you can see how sooty they are it’s an updated version of the venerable K-24 that I had in my 06 accord found the opening and closing spring was broken and it was causing it to vibrate heavily ordered a metal one off EBay for about $11.00 bucks got it in the mail and immediately installed to compensate while i waited for new one to come I simply drilled out the old one and screwed it back in take care
Excellent work my Friend! You explained it for the people that do not understand and you also explained it in a way that anybody that has a disability or difficulty listening or comprehending. They are now able to understand it way to go. I applied you. Excellent work!
Thank you for you elucidating video Sir ! Many reasonably mechanically adept folks I know could not explain the operation of the PCV system, & I will recommend your video to them. Cheers!
On the Up side: I'm headed outside to do a paper test right now... Thank you soooo much for the video ! 😄💙💐 On the Down side: That sing-song-y voice u do when u repeat yourself 40× does make me want to modify your patch a little 🤐🪪✂️ But I think the good outweighs the bad so I appreciate the video lesson!!
Great information. Engine oil and engines themselves literally doubled immediately in mileage because of the use of PCV's. A clean engine is a happy engine.
I remember working on old cars from the fifties that had no PCV system, just ' road draft tube ' that kind of pulled some of the crankcase fumes through just by the ' draft ' of moving fast. The whole underside of most cars was a giant grease sludge pit.
I have never seen this test before, I'm actually impressed and surprised that this isnt more common a test; best part is this test is so darn simple and inexpensive yet so effective.
because tbats old school technique, imagine them guys doing perfectly in their job that time without the technologies used today, i could only say they were simply briliant, low to no cost but effective way of tending cars what more can i say
I have a 1972 350, small cam, headers, mid rise intake, 600cfm carb. Head work and bottom end work (decent hp, lots of TQ, and this one is particularly high in compression 10:5:1 before head work and bottom end work )I'd put it at about 400hp at the flywheel because shes got alot of miles since the build, I'll promise you can't turn it over by hand with just #1 plug out. It'll break the crank bolt before it will. It spins normally with all 8 out. I'd say this engine was overhauled and put in sometime around the year 2000 it was in service for around 10 years, parked for 12, deteriorating outside, years. Before I bought it and put it on the road. It had been running bad since I bought it I timed it, didn't fix it although it was out of time. Replaced all vaccum hoses and pcv, didn't fix it. Adjusted carb and all settings, didn't fix it, Broke the new pcv I installed, so I had.to replace it again. Didn't fix it again. It was a specific kinda miss. I tune with a vaccum Guage and tac. I was getting a very lean fuel mixture, very low vacuum reading, and It was idling wayyyy too fast v I had it running good as hell, but not performing. Mind you this car sat for 12 years, and when I put it on the road I fixed anything I deemed "unsafe" such as tightening things, and making sure nothing is going to get into anything I did not build this engine, I did not put it in. I changed the oil made it run and drove it because it was fun. After doing all that work a while back... I did something naughty.... Something "forbidden" ........ I stuck a breather cap in my pcv valve grommet to match the other side which normally pulls from the massive vaccum leak known as a positive control valve and I plugged the nipple on the carb so it would volume of something a CARBURETED car desperately needs for economic reasons such as fuel economy... vaccum. A PCV basically "sucks" all the time, as a vaccum leak does. It's just controlled inside the carburetor. Not tamed, just controlled. Technically, you're putting sludge in your fuel system this way on most vintage cars.,you're sucking motor oil residue into a ethanol fuel that already hinders performance and causes power loss, engine wear, and dosent spark very well in older ignition types. And you're mixing this ethanol and oil into a less grade fuel than is already to weak for combustion I'm these old v8s and even straight 6's thus causing a lean mix, not because of your settings, but because 87 octane just dosen cut it. I believe 98 was the standard for octane in the old days. It went as high as 240octane at special fueling stations and race track use. It was also lead based until the late 70s/early 80s with lots of additional additives for combustion. The first generation small block chevy was designed with a vent tube at the back of the top of the block and a breather oil neck in the intake, it was front to rear ventilation. No massive leak of vaccum in the valve cover that usually aids in helping create that valve cover that always leaks on gm products because it's pressurized usually on the passenger side. And fess up, guess what? We know it's almost always the back pass side because that's where gm locates the pcv placement from the factory? Back passenger side. EGR too, pass intake (also vaccum) and guess what else? #6 plugs that usually foul, aka, least efficient cylinder.. it's already going to be this in old Chevrolet because on the firing order these 2 cylinders are farthest from #1 (the TDC of firing order) because thats just the way they built them. So you wanna pressurize this head, and pull all the "contaminated air"aka oil through a vacuum leak (controlled ofc) hooked into my intake, that ofc is the thing that makes the vaccum distribute from the crank case to ports ports the carburetor and any intake ports. so it'll get my fuel and air above it, coming in fresh, but only is to get blended with this oilly tainted loop of vaccum leak, to not only then be burned within my combustion chambers, which already won't make As.much combustion because the octane grade is poopeykaka for my ancient engines need for the fuel to burn hotter, hotter with less flash time and or length of combustion. And bit of a camshaft cresting less vacuum than before, it needs as much as you can give it and it's real design was made pre emissions so basically it created vaccum up top and the byproduct went out 2 vents in the engine Since I took pcv valve out and replaced with twin valve cover breathers. .. I haven't had sluggish throttle since. Fuel economy went up, Idles better, Downshifts and upshifts better. It even *rides smoother* Idles properly, and will pin you to the seat in 3rd gear whereas before it was gutleessly slow and disappointing it wasn't until the pcv valve was removed did I get true improvement. Cabureted cars don't need pcv unless they have all their original emissions control equipment in tact. If not ditch it for a breather. Its important you have the breathers on BOTH valve covers. You want to optimize how much ccp can escape through these holes by gravity and force of engine. If you do this you'll have dirty valve covers. Its a small price to pay for not having that buildup of grime on tbe vakve cover inside your intake and cresting carbonous sludge in your valve train and head internals I will never waste my time with a pcv on a modified classic again. Keep putting them on cars with ecm tho that's fine, just don't destroy the internals of a old gm engines all we got left is what's left of gms original casts. That goes to every mfg. business. That crested casts too suit out future
WOW...that was very interesting. Thank you for sharing the information and your personal experience. You are correct about carbureted engine and how the PCV system can cause problems. Thank you again for the information and the view.
I've had issues since I switched to the 600cfm Edelbrock from the Quadrajet that was on my 305. It used to scream and burn rubber up to the start of 2nd gear. I always figured I just went to big on the new carb, despite all the tweaking, but maybe this tip will help regain some of her former glory. Thanks guys!
Put a vacuum pump into the crankcase and dump the hydrocarbons into the exhaust, watch the power increase again. PCV systems just clagg up ur engine internals, especially for high performance, this is just another climate Nazi video.
Thanks for this!! I bought a 68 Galaxie that has its original 390 w cast intake and 2-barrel (motorcraft?) carb. The original stock big block Ford covers have NO HOLES AT ALL…no breathers, no PCV. I just bought a pair of generic chrome covers that have the 1 1/4” holes. I almost bought a breather and a PCV for the drivers side, but last-minute bought 2 chrome breathers instead. The reason was financial- a PCV hose for the big block ford was almost $70. 2 breathers only $20 on eBay. Now with your explanation I think I did the right thing. By the way the inside of the old covers was pretty clean, as is the valve train. Now I just have to figure out where to connect an open vacuum at the top back left of the carb, near the electric choke , which isn’t working properly. Any ideas anyone???
I inherited my dad's truck recently. It's a 2003 Dodge Dakota SLT he bought in 2005 with 16k miles on it. It now has 235k and still runs great even though she smokes just s little, still smooth as ever but noticed when i chsnged the plugged up pcv valve the engine was quieter overall once the notorious lifters got in harmony and finally settled down 😂 but yes overall the engine is now quieter and i am noticing cleaner oil coming out every 5k mile oil change. I am currently driving it daily without concern that its a 20 year old truck. I wasn't aware of the importance of keeping the pan oil cleaner. I did understand the recycling process to reburn as all my cars got new pcc valves each year or 2 anyway. I appreciated your genuine desire to get this point across and i enjoyed the patch part 😂
I just did what you advised and di it it on my 14 RAV4 ,when after start/hot engine condition the paper would not hold even I pressed it, after changing the PCV it holds on and the engine now run at idle smoother. Thank you so much, hope you'll continue and share more Auto vlogging tips.
Thank you for the view and the comment. I am so happy that I can help people like yourself fix cars, save money, and feel good about yourself. Thanks again my you tube friend.
I knew of the importance of the pcv valve, I didn’t know about this simple test, and yours Mr. is by far the clearestest’ of the explanations. Thanks o lot.
I'm afraid the paper 'stick' method only tells you that the PCV valve is open, creating a vaccum. Unfortunately, the PCV valve can still be bad and still 'stick' the paper- in the case of it being stuck open when it's not supposed to be. (Creating a vacuum leak instead). I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent with misfire, one of possible causes is vacuum leak from bad PCV system. Hopefully that's it, I've seemingly tried everything else! It's a cheap regular maintenance part anyways, so I'm not even gonna test it- just replace and be done. Great video.
Very informative, and nice tip with the “paper stick” idea. Im not a mechanic just doing research like any other person trying to figure out their car issues and I appreciate your teaching method.
Informed helpful advice appreciated. He does patronise, repeat, labour each point as if WE are incapable of grasping the point. At first I found him too much but wanted the info so carried on watching. I’m not surprised there’s a student backlash. As a personality he’s certainly forceful. I liked the video and subscribed.
thank you for the info about the PCV Valve. this what happen to my 4 cylinder. coz of positive crank case pressure. oil leaks from the oil seal. 4 Litre oil was gone while driving. now i change my PCV Valve. run my engine feels good. Thank you for Learn how IMPORTANT the PCV VALVE is...
WOW...! That's Great. I'm Glad that my video was helpful to you and your vehicle. Thank you for the view and your information. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
That's the way my wife talks to me trying to explain the right way of wiping the table, she says I'm dumb, i told her, "I married you, damit, I hate it when your right".
This is the definitive test for a pcv valve. I have two cars that failed - both that passed the other usual test. I was able to clean the OEM valve better and get it to pass this test but the other ( aftermarket) would not despite it only having around 5000 miles on it and after cleaning to what seemed like new. Lesson for me is use only OEM and also to check frequently. The one l was able to get working was on the car that l only have 50 K miles on. Thank you for the great tip.
WOW. Thank you for the view and the information. I completely agree with you, OEM parts are way better than aftermarket parts. Thank you again my You Tube friend.
The PCV valve should allow a lot of flow when manifold vacuum is low- as in when you are accelerating heavily, and should only allow a small bleed of vacuum when manifold vacuum is high- such as idle and low load running. Positive Crankcase Ventilation is the crankcase gases from combustion leaking past the piston rings and such from not just blowing out of the crankcase on their own but helping to draw the gases out and also feeding them into the intake so they can be burned. Helps out all around I've never seen it quite so exaggerated
@A. Melbs not sure how those are set up. All I can think of is making sure everything ' crankcase ' is sealed and plugged up ( kind of like his tests here ) and how it runs ( idles ) versus opening it up, like any oil filler caps off and dipsticks out, and comparing how it runs. If it runs the same, while the ' piece of paper ' test shows vacuum is present, then should be working right.
@A. Melbs usually PCV valve is very easy to get at. Plugs into the crankcase somewhere usually on valve cover with a hose to intake manifold. Sometimes you can pull them out of their crankcase connection while keeping the intake hose on and while running on idle it should be holding in ' bleed ' mode. Then when you put thumb over the end the flow stops and spring pushes it to ' heavier flow ' mode. It clicks back and forth as you put your thumb on it giving you a good idea if it's working right. I was trying to pinpoint a vacuum leak on a Ford Focus where the PCV valve is buried under the intake manifold and you can't hardly even see it. To check if it was PCV I had to put a long flat bar through the intake tubes and push against the vacuum hose to the valve to see if it changed speed. When I heard it clicking ( like putting thumb over the end ) I knew it was working okay.
@@45chris45 it could. It would have to stick ' open ' to where it passes a lot more air. In that position it would not want to idle very good, in fact, not at all and would quit.
Thank you very much for that awesome comment. And thank you for the view. I don't think I have ever worked on a Sunbeam . I will Google it to see what it looks like. Thanks again.
Thank you for this. My wife was really quiet one day and I asked her what was wrong. She said nothing was wrong. I put this piece of paper on her and it did not stick to her. Thats when I knew something was wrong.
You are Welcome and thank you for the comment. More pressure / more power / more blow-by. So long as the paper sticks on the dipstick tube, your good. Check to see if the paper sticks at idle. If it does stick, give the engine a couple of quick revs. If the paper sticks during the revs, your good. If the paper does not stick during the revs, get the largest vacuum hose that will fit (adapter encouraged) and get a PCV valve for larger engine (displacement). So long as the larger hose and valve does not effect your idle too much, your good. Thank you for the view. Share with family and friends.
hello.....sir this is Mubarak from Genuine car workshop . i m from india...i just loves ur videos.....sir...u r doing great job by spreading knowledge about cars.i just loves you...thank sir...may god gives u a long life...
WOW...you are a Big Deal to me. It is so rewarding to read such a nice comment from somebody half way around the world. THANK YOU . I admire people from India because I watch You Tube videos that show people from India getting the job done with sometimes the most minimum of tools. WOW ! You people are Hard workers. I like that. I NOT like lazy people. Thank you Mubarak, my friend. My God also give you long life.
Passing automotive service excellence tests can get you some patches. It costs you time and money, but it helps get your working knowledge into relatable and comparable language and ideas to relate about service, repair, and maintenance. I believe, when we aren't manufacturer/factory trained, these tests help us see who has been through the testing successfully. The unfortunate thing is, you can study their literature and take their tests without repairing or building anything. Your ability to relate these concepts to another person is valuable. Experience takes book study and makes it into good thought. Now let's not sound condescending in our method, but matter of fact. I have discussed the system you covered in this video with some "mechanics" and heard some ideas that don't fully make sense. It's because of the mode of the throttle. The Chilton and motor manuals depict this system also and include diagram drawings with the different modes. It answers why we had CCV filters in the air cleaner connected to the breather tube side. Just wanted to give more to those who need to study their manuals and understand. Many with experience know from repetition and observation.
@@HardWhereHero Hello. Thank you for the view and the comment. I have been fixing cars (trucks/SUV's/other) for 50 years. My first engine overhaul was in 1972. I still remember the vehicle. It was a 1959 Buick La Saber (aqua). I was in awe when that vehicle drove away from the high school where I took auto mechanics class. I thought it was so amazing that you can take all the engine pieces and put them together (just right) and bring life to a machine. Thanks again my You Tube friend.
He reminds me of the guy that mentored me in industrial electrical. Another good dude from the barrio that became a wise old top of his trade tradesman...
I have a Audi 4 cylinder turbo with great negative pressure. Even when it was stock it was amazing. Was stock 2 years. For thr past year it has a big turbo upgrade and more, pushing over 500hp (yes 4 cylinder). It’s a 2015 with currently 212k miles. Stock internals . Runs amazing.
You must of got lucky and got one of the good ones. Audi modified the PVC valve that raises the pressure. It's over 300 bucks for the OEM. It is still a major problem, needs replaced often because it fails. Mine just started this issue now.
Robert Winnall are you saying you just upgraded the turbocharger and now your engine is pushing over 500hp? It's not tuned? Not even stage 1? What type of turbo did you install? BTW, which Audi? A4 or A6?
@@RayJays he says turbo and more. It would be kind of hard to put a massive turbo on without doing tuning so I'd assume it part of the "and more". I'd be scared to death of the timing chain failing if it was an A4.
Sir, take no notice of the students, thats what they do for enjoyment, they dont mean anything by it. You are good at explaining the detail,thats what matters!
Awesome. It is 4am and I have spent all day trying to figure out my problems. Now I can confirm or rule out any PCV issues. Stress dropped quite a bit. I wish you were in Houston area, i could trust you for sure. Thank you.
Can't wait to wake up and do this test. Think last guy I hired rigged my system. Had vehicle 3x as long as he said he needed to, cost more than he said it should, and seems many many things have been bugging out since.
plus my discernment is top-shelf , wasn't at first in this case because I'd like to believe everyone is good, have to keep reminding myself I live on earth with human-beings
My 2012 Euro Civic (136000 km) consumes a little more oil than my wife's Euro Civic (2007, 210000km), i'm going to to this test on both cars. Greetings from Belgium!!🏁
@@Tintoycar I have tested brand new four cylinder engines, and the paper does not stick. Four cylinder engines are not large enough to produce the volume of vacuum, needed to put the crankcase under negative pressure. Only the larger four cylinders (2.6 or 2.8 ) can stick the paper.
This is the first time I come across this Mexcanico Master. I like your teaching style alot, your delivery timing is perfect for teaching and learning. I only had to watch your video one time. Other mechanics who teach virtually talk to fast or don't annunciate clearly or both, so I have to watch their videos many times to really grasp their spill. Thank you sir, keep up the good work. I look forward to learn more from you.
Man!! I just subscribed to this channel. Thanks man really appreciate it you sharing your knowledge. I’m a DIY on my vehicles and this kind of information helps sooooo much. Again thank you 🙏!
Learned a lot from ya’ ! Thx 🙏🏼 I liked the humour at the end ! You are a total A.S.S. Adroit . Skilled . Solid. 🏆 The world needs more coaches like you . 👍🏼
What are your thoughts of a pvc delete? To be more specific, installing an oil catch can and venting off the remainder as apposed to recirculating? Can modern cars with their computer and data demands operate properly with such a modification? The path that has brought me to these thoughts and questions is modern direct gas injected engines and the troubles associated with that. The carbon and dried oil build up in the intake manifold and the problems associated with that to be exact. Problems that I'm still learning about and trying to grasp. Are oil catch cans an answer and should they be vented, or recirculated? Your knowledge shared would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the question. Yes, a catch can is a very good idea. I would add the catch can and leave the PCV system installed. Thank you for the views.
Plug the vacuum side of the PCV, and turn the crank vent tube to a down ward direction. Cars from the 1900's to mid 60's all used a 'down draft tube' stop sucking a vacuum in your cranks case, you're mystifying the oil, and burning it... making the air/environment dirtier.
Direct injected cars develop carbon deposits on the valves which can reduce fuel economy and performance. I know somebody that did a pcv delete with vaccum side hose leading to the pcv blocked off, and the pcv replaced with an aftermarket straight through fitting on the valve cover with a hose that leads a catch can then a hose to the bottom of the engine. Their is a second hose that leads from the valve cover to the intake. That hose is disconnected from the intake and pointed down to under the engine again, and the intake side plugged off. So basically the valve cover is at atmospheric pressure, he has been running like this for 50k+ miles and the turbo 4 cyl runs like a beast.
12:50 One more important exhaust gas: H₂O. That definitely doesn't belong in your engine oil! Loved your clear and emphatic explanation, thank you. On a 4-cylinder engine, would pinching off the breather hose allow the paper/dipstick test to work as on a larger engine?
Just to answer my own question: yes, when I block the breather hose, the pressure measured at the dipstick tube drops gradually, reaching about -20 kPa (6.5 inHg) vacuum after about 10 s. Not as strong a vacuum as at the intake manifold, but definitely working. With the breather hose unobstructed, the dipstick pressure stays around ambient. I also tested the PCV valve by attaching a syringe to the PCV hose coming from the engine, and confirmed that air can be drawn out of the crankcase, but the valve blocks return air. So I'm pretty sure my PCV valve is OK. :)
Thank you for the comment. I have seen larger 4 cylinder engines ( 2.8 L) stick the paper. I never thought of pinching off the breather before. You don't have to pinch off the 6 and 8 cylinders.
Does this mean that if you have a 4 cylinder engine you can make the paper stick by installing a more narrow breather hose? And therefore fix the problem that 4 cylinders have with creating crank case vacum? Or would that create more problems?
@@commentcrafter4158 My understanding is that while the paper test may not work with 4-cylinder engines, they still have enough vacuum to produce enough PCV flow to ventilate the crankcase and avoid pressurisation. You probably wouldn't want to block or restrict the PCV or breather hoses in normal operation. However, if you want to do the paper test, you could temporarily pinch or plug the breather hose.
@@commentcrafter4158 I believe that under some conditions of high speed, heavy load operation the "breather" hose is actually needed to handle the blow by gases created and under those conditions the flow is reversed so that it is into the air intake tube. So probably not a good idea to restrict that hose too much. Maybe a little? I don't know.
I was laser focused watching and learning but then I cracked up at the end of the video because of the patch... thank you for the information sir already subscribed and will watch more
I have a 1986 305 Chevy,( in California!) It's got more smog system's to be analyzed than I believed possible. But this is a good place to start. Now all I need to do is rebuild a computer controlled Q- jet,swap in an RV cam and get my mind examinerd. Thank you
Thank you for the comment and the view. I remember the Q-jet computer controlled carburetors . We use to call the Quadro-jet carburetors Quado-junk. Thank you again for the view.
I love this channel. Helping a dumb ass like me learn how my engine works, avoid expensive repairs and even get my hands a little dirty. Please keep these videos coming 🙏
You are a great communicator.
The number of times that you said the same thing burned it into my brain!!!
Thank you for the view and that awesome comment. Some views don't like the way I repeat myself. It comes from being an instructor for 40 years. Thank you again.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 You should have repeated yourself in the comments...rookie move. lol (jk)
I have been a mechanic all my life and I never knew this trick I love learning every day thanks !
That's Great. Thank you for the view and the comment. Did you see my series of videos on automotive AC ?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 I will thanks
The old school hot rodders used crankcase ventilation. Something very similar to the PCV concept, to get more horsepower. A 3/8 pipe cut at a 45-degree angle; the longest part of that angle pointed towards the front of the car. Welded into the header collector. A 90-degree elbow with a check valve and hose leading to a ported valve cover breather. I was amazed at how much vacuum it created...
@@hanc37 WOW...! Thank you for that information and thank you for the view.
@@codyhatch4607 Both are negative I suppose. The only difference with the PCV is the vacuum is coming from the intake manifold instead of the header exhaust.
Dude definitely just came back from smokin a fatty. Good 👍 info
I was watching this at 2x speed at first. Then I slowed down when he started showing the diagrams of the pcv system; I appreciated his repetitiveness at this point. I'm having some car trouble, and what do you know, my car is a 4 cylinder with a blown pcv hose 😂.
Thank you for helping me understand more about what could be causing my engine light, leaking gaskets, and blown pcv hose. Definitely replaying this video again.
What's an honor to have such an experienced mechanic share his wealth of knowledge! Thank you!
WOW WOW WOW.....WOW ! You made my day. Thank you.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 after watching this,I actually went out and did a paper test and it failed. 1 hour later and a new PCV and my truck is running right. Now I know what and how a PCV works. Thank you!
Awesome... ! I'm so glad that I can still help people learn about auto repair.
Verygood well done
Awesome lesson !! Teaching us everything exactly the right way to get strong in the profession. It shows how much you care - for our sakes . So good of ya ! It is invaluable .
WOW ! Thank you for such an Awesome comment. Also thank you for the views.
Excellent video! I always wondered what the hell the PCV does and now I know. I've always replaced it on my Astro van and my Lexus GS 300, but I never knew why. I like how you explain things clearly and succinctly. And your wit and dry sense of humor are terrific! 😊
Awesome. Thank you for that awesome comment and the views.
I stopped the video at 1 minute 19 seconds. I have no tolerance for that condescending tone. It wasn’t all in gest, it was being ugly for the sake of being ugly. It does what it says it does. It allows air to circulate through the crank case to maintain correct pressure inside the crankcase. Hence the name “positive crankcase ventilation valve”.
@@Batmicheal If you knew all that you wouldn't be here.
I want to buy pot from you cause you obviously know where to get the good stuff!
I've been addicted to UA-cam for about a decade. Watched (at least) a thousand videos. This is THE best thing I've see..............by far.
THANK YOU!
This could have been explained in 5 minutes!
I agree. Just get to the point.
More like 2 minutes
... or less.
🤌He was explaining the theory to Joe Average w/zero automotive experience.
Totally understandable.
Chill out friends ✌️.
Well the (D) blue side needs explanation
Reminds me of my science teacher from high school.
Rest in peace.
I used to love his teachings.
Thank you for the comment and the view .
Thank you, sir. I've been working on cars for 45 years and was blessed with friends and family who were mechanics. They taught me plenty but never heard of the paper test. Thank you, sir
I'm fixing to Bing watch your videos. Ps I did the automotive service technology course at nwscc in 2000 to learn about obd2 our instructors were awesome, and ASE certified, too. I'm a carpenter for a paycheck but machines are my love. Onwards thru the fog brother. Cheers
I just did this test in my Chevy V8 LS3 because I was suspicious about something wrong with the PCV valve. Test resulted just as in the video. So, PCV valve is ok. Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge Sir!
You are very Welcome.
Dear friend. You are top person in my book, besides a top technitian olso. I have owned a shop for 53 years and I never riched a level of knolege like you. I love your videos. Thanks
You are Welcome Sir. That means a lot to me, coming from you. Thank you for the views and that nice comment.
This is a pretty easy valve. Accumulating unburnt fuel gasses and hot oil vapor trapped in the crankcase need somewhere to go. If you think your engine wants to inhale that stuff, you probably eat your own shit too.
Great job , your total explanation in each phase of the PCV cycle helps the DIYer understand and Not memorize, that's what great teachers do, thanks I'll be checking out your future videos!
Thank you for the Awesome Comments and the views.
it can't be more clear. thanks a lot man. its really nice to see people who take the time to make this videos and explain them this well.
You're very welcome!
agreed 👌
Thank you, talking speed and how you emphasize words are good for non-English and non-mechanic people.
Thank you for the view and your input.
I just purchased a used 2017 Honda Accord Sport 2.4L Inline 4 cyl. This is my 1st time owning a modern inline 4cyl...
I was told to replace the PCV valve every 30,000 miles. Seems reasonable enough, as the PCV valve is very easy to replace on this engine. Thank you for explaining the reasons for this important maintenance!
You are Welcome and thank you for the view and that nice comment. Good luck my You Tube friend.
Yep it the earth dreams engine be careful because they’re notorious oil burners as a matter of fact the Chinese government banned that engine from china I don’t know if Honda has resolved the issue with the Chinese government or not but Scotty Kilmer has a video on the engine and it’s issue with oil burn one way to tell look at your tail pipes an you can see how sooty they are it’s an updated version of the venerable K-24 that I had in my 06 accord found the opening and closing spring was broken and it was causing it to vibrate heavily ordered a metal one off EBay for about $11.00 bucks got it in the mail and immediately installed to compensate while i waited for new one to come I simply drilled out the old one and screwed it back in take care
Excellent work my Friend! You explained it for the people that do not understand and you also explained it in a way that anybody that has a disability or difficulty listening or comprehending. They are now able to understand it way to go. I applied you. Excellent work!
Thank you for those Kind Words and the view.
So far, you make more sense than any other person I’ve listened to. Thank you. Have subscribed, and liked.
You are Welcome and thank you for that positive comment.
Awesome video sir! A mixture of fine humour and vital information for me. Feel good and create many more lessons!
Thank you for those Kind Words. Also thank you for the view and comment. I have over 100 videos. I hope you watch some more of them. Thank you again.
Thank you for you elucidating video Sir ! Many reasonably mechanically adept folks I know could not explain the operation of the PCV system, & I will recommend your video to them. Cheers!
Thank you very much for that nice comment and thank you for the views.
On the Up side:
I'm headed outside to do a paper test right now...
Thank you soooo much for the video ! 😄💙💐
On the Down side:
That sing-song-y voice u do when u repeat yourself 40× does make me want to modify your patch a little 🤐🪪✂️
But I think the good outweighs the bad so I appreciate the video lesson!!
Great information. Engine oil and engines themselves literally doubled immediately in mileage because of the use of PCV's. A clean engine is a happy engine.
I agree. A clean engine is a happy engine. Thank you for the view and the comment my You Tube friend.
I remember working on old cars from the fifties that had no PCV system, just ' road draft tube ' that kind of pulled some of the crankcase fumes through just by the
' draft ' of moving fast.
The whole underside of most cars was a giant grease sludge pit.
I like that you keeps it simple answering almost any question we might have about the pcv valve. 👍🏿
I have never seen this test before, I'm actually impressed and surprised that this isnt more common a test; best part is this test is so darn simple and inexpensive yet so effective.
Thank you for the view and that awesome comment.
Right 👍 Amen🙏
because tbats old school technique,
imagine them guys doing perfectly in their job that time without the technologies used today,
i could only say they were simply briliant,
low to no cost but effective way of tending cars
what more can i say
@@endurofan9854 I have two notifications of you replying to me and another.
I can't find them.
What's going on?
@@endurofan9854 Thank you for the view and that cool comment.
I have a 1972 350, small cam, headers, mid rise intake, 600cfm carb. Head work and bottom end work (decent hp, lots of TQ, and this one is particularly high in compression 10:5:1 before head work and bottom end work )I'd put it at about 400hp at the flywheel because shes got alot of miles since the build, I'll promise you can't turn it over by hand with just #1 plug out. It'll break the crank bolt before it will. It spins normally with all 8 out.
I'd say this engine was overhauled and put in sometime around the year 2000 it was in service for around 10 years, parked for 12, deteriorating outside, years. Before I bought it and put it on the road.
It had been running bad since I bought it
I timed it, didn't fix it although it was out of time.
Replaced all vaccum hoses and pcv, didn't fix it.
Adjusted carb and all settings, didn't fix it,
Broke the new pcv I installed, so I had.to replace it again.
Didn't fix it again.
It was a specific kinda miss.
I tune with a vaccum Guage and tac.
I was getting a very lean fuel mixture, very low vacuum reading, and It was idling wayyyy too fast v
I had it running good as hell, but not performing.
Mind you this car sat for 12 years, and when I put it on the road I fixed anything I deemed "unsafe" such as tightening things, and making sure nothing is going to get into anything I did not build this engine, I did not put it in. I changed the oil made it run and drove it because it was fun.
After doing all that work a while back...
I did something naughty....
Something "forbidden" ........
I stuck a breather cap in my pcv valve grommet to match the other side which normally pulls from the massive vaccum leak known as a positive control valve and I plugged the nipple on the carb so it would volume of something a CARBURETED car desperately needs for economic reasons such as fuel economy... vaccum.
A PCV basically "sucks" all the time, as a vaccum leak does. It's just controlled inside the carburetor. Not tamed, just controlled. Technically, you're putting sludge in your fuel system this way on most vintage cars.,you're sucking motor oil residue into a ethanol fuel that already hinders performance and causes power loss, engine wear, and dosent spark very well in older ignition types. And you're mixing this ethanol and oil into a less grade fuel than is already to weak for combustion I'm these old v8s and even straight 6's thus causing a lean mix, not because of your settings, but because 87 octane just dosen cut it. I believe 98 was the standard for octane in the old days. It went as high as 240octane at special fueling stations and race track use. It was also lead based until the late 70s/early 80s with lots of additional additives for combustion.
The first generation small block chevy was designed with a vent tube at the back of the top of the block and a breather oil neck in the intake, it was front to rear ventilation. No massive leak of vaccum in the valve cover that usually aids in helping create that valve cover that always leaks on gm products because it's pressurized usually on the passenger side. And fess up, guess what? We know it's almost always the back pass side because that's where gm locates the pcv placement from the factory? Back passenger side. EGR too, pass intake (also vaccum) and guess what else? #6 plugs that usually foul, aka, least efficient cylinder.. it's already going to be this in old Chevrolet because on the firing order these 2 cylinders are farthest from #1 (the TDC of firing order) because thats just the way they built them. So you wanna pressurize this head, and pull all the "contaminated air"aka oil through a vacuum leak (controlled ofc) hooked into my intake, that ofc is the thing that makes the vaccum distribute from the crank case to ports ports the carburetor and any intake ports. so it'll get my fuel and air above it, coming in fresh, but only is to get blended with this oilly tainted loop of vaccum leak, to not only then be burned within my combustion chambers, which already won't make As.much combustion because the octane grade is poopeykaka for my ancient engines need for the fuel to burn hotter, hotter with less flash time and or length of combustion. And bit of a camshaft cresting less vacuum than before, it needs as much as you can give it and it's real design was made pre emissions so basically it created vaccum up top and the byproduct went out 2 vents in the engine
Since I took pcv valve out and replaced with twin valve cover breathers. ..
I haven't had sluggish throttle since.
Fuel economy went up,
Idles better,
Downshifts and upshifts better.
It even *rides smoother*
Idles properly, and will pin you to the seat in 3rd gear whereas before it was gutleessly slow and disappointing it wasn't until the pcv valve was removed did I get true improvement.
Cabureted cars don't need pcv unless they have all their original emissions control equipment in tact. If not ditch it for a breather.
Its important you have the breathers on BOTH valve covers. You want to optimize how much ccp can escape through these holes by gravity and force of engine. If you do this you'll have dirty valve covers.
Its a small price to pay for not having that buildup of grime on tbe vakve cover inside your intake and cresting carbonous sludge in your valve train and head internals
I will never waste my time with a pcv on a modified classic again.
Keep putting them on cars with ecm tho that's fine, just don't destroy the internals of a old gm engines all we got left is what's left of gms original casts. That goes to every mfg. business. That crested casts too suit out future
WOW...that was very interesting. Thank you for sharing the information and your personal experience. You are correct about carbureted engine and how the PCV system can cause problems. Thank you again for the information and the view.
I've had issues since I switched to the 600cfm Edelbrock from the Quadrajet that was on my 305. It used to scream and burn rubber up to the start of 2nd gear. I always figured I just went to big on the new carb, despite all the tweaking, but maybe this tip will help regain some of her former glory. Thanks guys!
Put a vacuum pump into the crankcase and dump the hydrocarbons into the exhaust, watch the power increase again. PCV systems just clagg up ur engine internals, especially for high performance, this is just another climate Nazi video.
No way a pcv is in my freshly rebuilt sbc. Breathers on both valve covers.
Thanks for this!! I bought a 68 Galaxie that has its original 390 w cast intake and 2-barrel (motorcraft?) carb. The original stock big block Ford covers have NO HOLES AT ALL…no breathers, no PCV. I just bought a pair of generic chrome covers that have the 1 1/4” holes. I almost bought a breather and a PCV for the drivers side, but last-minute bought 2 chrome breathers instead. The reason was financial- a PCV hose for the big block ford was almost $70. 2 breathers only $20 on eBay. Now with your explanation I think I did the right thing. By the way the inside of the old covers was pretty clean, as is the valve train. Now I just have to figure out where to connect an open vacuum at the top back left of the carb, near the electric choke , which isn’t working properly. Any ideas anyone???
I inherited my dad's truck recently. It's a 2003 Dodge Dakota SLT he bought in 2005 with 16k miles on it. It now has 235k and still runs great even though she smokes just s little, still smooth as ever but noticed when i chsnged the plugged up pcv valve the engine was quieter overall once the notorious lifters got in harmony and finally settled down 😂 but yes overall the engine is now quieter and i am noticing cleaner oil coming out every 5k mile oil change. I am currently driving it daily without concern that its a 20 year old truck. I wasn't aware of the importance of keeping the pan oil cleaner. I did understand the recycling process to reburn as all my cars got new pcc valves each year or 2 anyway. I appreciated your genuine desire to get this point across and i enjoyed the patch part 😂
If it smokes, buy 3-4 cans of BG 88k and EPR your engine
The absolute best explanation on how a pcv valve works.
I just did what you advised and di it it on my 14 RAV4 ,when after start/hot engine condition the paper would not hold even I pressed it, after changing the PCV it holds on and the engine now run at idle smoother. Thank you so much, hope you'll continue and share more Auto vlogging tips.
Thank you for the view and the comment. I am so happy that I can help people like yourself fix cars, save money, and feel good about yourself. Thanks again my you tube friend.
I knew of the importance of the pcv valve, I didn’t know about this simple test, and yours Mr. is by far the clearestest’ of the explanations.
Thanks o lot.
You are Welcome and thank you for the view and that nice comment.
I'm afraid the paper 'stick' method only tells you that the PCV valve is open, creating a vaccum. Unfortunately, the PCV valve can still be bad and still 'stick' the paper- in the case of it being stuck open when it's not supposed to be. (Creating a vacuum leak instead). I have a 2007 Hyundai Accent with misfire, one of possible causes is vacuum leak from bad PCV system. Hopefully that's it, I've seemingly tried everything else! It's a cheap regular maintenance part anyways, so I'm not even gonna test it- just replace and be done. Great video.
Thank you for the comment. Yes you are correct about the valve staying open. Thank you again.
Most acurate information on pcv valve I’ve com acrosss yet keep up the good work accuracy
Thank you for the view and that positive comment.
Well done with your professionalism and very important educational experience, patience 💯👍the right way
Glad you enjoyed it!
Very informative, and nice tip with the “paper stick” idea. Im not a mechanic just doing research like any other person trying to figure out their car issues and I appreciate your teaching method.
I am Glad to help and thank you for the view and that positive comment. I appreciate it.
Excellent information about the pcv on the car engine, How it works and it's function.. well done.
Thank you very much for that positive comment. Also thank you for the view.
Informed helpful advice appreciated.
He does patronise, repeat, labour each point as if WE are incapable of grasping the point.
At first I found him too much but wanted the info so carried on watching.
I’m not surprised there’s a student backlash. As a personality he’s certainly forceful.
I liked the video and subscribed.
"Paaaper muuuust stiiiick" 🧟♂️
Thank you for the video, señor! Extremely informative!
You are Welcome. Thank you for that Positive comment.
thank you for the info about the PCV Valve. this what happen to my 4 cylinder. coz of positive crank case pressure. oil leaks from the oil seal. 4 Litre oil was gone while driving. now i change my PCV Valve. run my engine feels good. Thank you for Learn how IMPORTANT the PCV VALVE is...
WOW...! That's Great. I'm Glad that my video was helpful to you and your vehicle. Thank you for the view and your information. Break a Leg / Good Luck on your repairs.
That's the way my wife talks to me trying to explain the right way of wiping the table, she says I'm dumb, i told her, "I married you, damit, I hate it when your right".
The lecture was 💯 percent on point, whether the video was long great for people who don't know much about cars or mechanics. Ty buddy.
One of the best educational videos I’ve ever seen. You’re an exceptional teacher!
WOW WOW WOW...Thank you very much for that awesome comment and the view.
Sure wish I learned from a professor like you. I understand a lot, I don't know how to explain things. Thank you sir for your video
Unbelievable teacher - thank you for your dedication to knowledge
You are welcome and thank you for the view and that positive comment.
This is the definitive test for a pcv valve. I have two cars that failed - both that passed the other usual test. I was able to clean the OEM valve better and get it to pass this test but the other ( aftermarket) would not despite it only having around 5000 miles on it and after cleaning to what seemed like new. Lesson for me is use only OEM and also to check frequently. The one l was able to get working was on the car that l only have 50 K miles on.
Thank you for the great tip.
WOW. Thank you for the view and the information. I completely agree with you, OEM parts are way better than aftermarket parts. Thank you again my You Tube friend.
The PCV valve should allow a lot of flow when manifold vacuum is low- as in when you are accelerating heavily, and should only allow a small bleed of vacuum when manifold vacuum is high- such as idle and low load running.
Positive Crankcase Ventilation is the crankcase gases from combustion leaking past the piston rings and such from not just blowing out of the crankcase on their own but helping to draw the gases out and also feeding them into the intake so they can be burned.
Helps out all around
I've never seen it quite so exaggerated
@A. Melbs not sure how those are set up. All I can think of is making sure everything ' crankcase ' is sealed and plugged up ( kind of like his tests here ) and how it runs ( idles ) versus opening it up, like any oil filler caps off and dipsticks out, and comparing how it runs.
If it runs the same, while the ' piece of paper ' test shows vacuum is present, then should be working right.
@A. Melbs usually PCV valve is very easy to get at. Plugs into the crankcase somewhere usually on valve cover with a hose to intake manifold. Sometimes you can pull them out of their crankcase connection while keeping the intake hose on and while running on idle it should be holding in ' bleed ' mode. Then when you put thumb over the end the flow stops and spring pushes it to
' heavier flow ' mode. It clicks back and forth as you put your thumb on it giving you a good idea if it's working right.
I was trying to pinpoint a vacuum leak on a Ford Focus where the PCV valve is buried under the intake manifold and you can't hardly even see it. To check if it was PCV I had to put a long flat bar through the intake tubes and push against the vacuum hose to the valve to see if it changed speed. When I heard it clicking
( like putting thumb over the end ) I knew it was working okay.
Would a bad PCV valve cause the car to shut off
@@45chris45 it could. It would have to stick
' open ' to where it passes a lot more air.
In that position it would not want to idle very good, in fact, not at all and would quit.
Love this presentation and love the character. Liked. And take all my hats off. Well done.
When your mechanic is also your dealer
Jefe, you have plenty of knowledge to share and for that I am grateful. Thank you.
You are Welcome and Thank you for the view and that nice comment.
P E R F E C T L Y EXPLAINED! CLEAN & CLEAR! Thank you for giving everything from you to explain as good as possible! Really really helpful!!!!!
You are wonderful, in knowing what is what. I am 71 years old with a 1966 Sunbeam Tiger. I know a pro when I see one.
Thank you very much for that awesome comment. And thank you for the view. I don't think I have ever worked on a Sunbeam . I will Google it to see what it looks like. Thanks again.
One world = Brilliant! Sterling work Sir. Very clear and very much appreciated.
WOW...! Thank you so much. You have no idea how much that means to me. Thank you for for that positive comment and the view.
Thank you for this. My wife was really quiet one day and I asked her what was wrong. She said nothing was wrong. I put this piece of paper on her and it did not stick to her. Thats when I knew something was wrong.
Funny....and thank you for the view and the comment.
Excellent demo .very important information I learnt today. Thankful to you professor 🙏🙏💐💐👌👌👌👍👍👍
Thank you for the view and the comment my you tube friend.
Showed me how a neglected overlooked engine part is so important~
I'm glad I was able to help you, and thank you for the view and the comment.
I will never forget this trick, thank you sir! How would you set up a pcv system with a centrifugal style supercharger?
You are Welcome and thank you for the comment. More pressure / more power / more blow-by. So long as the paper sticks on the dipstick tube, your good. Check to see if the paper sticks at idle. If it does stick, give the engine a couple of quick revs. If the paper sticks during the revs, your good. If the paper does not stick during the revs, get the largest vacuum hose that will fit (adapter encouraged) and get a PCV valve for larger engine (displacement). So long as the larger hose and valve does not effect your idle too much, your good. Thank you for the view. Share with family and friends.
Awesome Teacher!! I will remember to apply this paper test on all vehicles I work on.
Thank you for the view and that cool comment.
This video is genius, genius. I have never seen or heard better and simpler and so concise in essence. Thanks for this video.
Wow, thank you!
hello.....sir this is Mubarak from Genuine car workshop . i m from india...i just loves ur videos.....sir...u r doing great job by spreading knowledge about cars.i just loves you...thank sir...may god gives u a long life...
WOW...you are a Big Deal to me. It is so rewarding to read such a nice comment from somebody half way around the world. THANK YOU .
I admire people from India because I watch You Tube videos that show people from India getting the job done with sometimes the most minimum of tools. WOW ! You people are Hard workers. I like that. I NOT like lazy people.
Thank you Mubarak, my friend. My God also give you long life.
Passing automotive service excellence tests can get you some patches.
It costs you time and money, but it helps get your working knowledge into relatable and comparable language and ideas to relate about service, repair, and maintenance.
I believe, when we aren't manufacturer/factory trained, these tests help us see who has been through the testing successfully.
The unfortunate thing is, you can study their literature and take their tests without repairing or building anything.
Your ability to relate these concepts to another person is valuable. Experience takes book study and makes it into good thought.
Now let's not sound condescending in our method, but matter of fact.
I have discussed the system you covered in this video with some "mechanics" and heard some ideas that don't fully make sense.
It's because of the mode of the throttle.
The Chilton and motor manuals depict this system also and include diagram drawings with the different modes.
It answers why we had CCV filters in the air cleaner connected to the breather tube side.
Just wanted to give more to those who need to study their manuals and understand.
Many with experience know from repetition and observation.
Thank you for the view and that very thorough comment. What did you think about my video ?
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 I dont know about him but I have been working on vehicles for upwards of 20 years and had no idea about this test.
@@HardWhereHero Hello. Thank you for the view and the comment. I have been fixing cars (trucks/SUV's/other) for 50 years. My first engine overhaul was in 1972. I still remember the vehicle. It was a 1959 Buick La Saber (aqua). I was in awe when that vehicle drove away from the high school where I took auto mechanics class. I thought it was so amazing that you can take all the engine pieces and put them together (just right) and bring life to a machine. Thanks again my You Tube friend.
@Danny Linc
wow
i did'nt know about the exam but thank for sharing the enfo,
there realy is alot more to learn every day
@Just-in Time
me neither 😆
18 years being a mech but have no idea there was an exam like that,
i realy still have alot to learn
He reminds me of the guy that mentored me in industrial electrical. Another good dude from the barrio that became a wise old top of his trade tradesman...
Awesome...! Thank you.
Thanks for making this, I genuinely feel like I learned something!
Glad to hear it!
Your Video is very informative, enjoyable and worth the time that I needed to watch it, please keep them coming. Thank you
I'm Glad To Help. Thank you for the view and that nice comment.
I have a Audi 4 cylinder turbo with great negative pressure. Even when it was stock it was amazing. Was stock 2 years. For thr past year it has a big turbo upgrade and more, pushing over 500hp (yes 4 cylinder). It’s a 2015 with currently 212k miles. Stock internals . Runs amazing.
Thanks for the info!
You must of got lucky and got one of the good ones. Audi modified the PVC valve that raises the pressure. It's over 300 bucks for the OEM. It is still a major problem, needs replaced often because it fails. Mine just started this issue now.
Robert Winnall are you saying you just upgraded the turbocharger and now your engine is pushing over 500hp? It's not tuned? Not even stage 1? What type of turbo did you install? BTW, which Audi? A4 or A6?
@@RayJays he says turbo and more. It would be kind of hard to put a massive turbo on without doing tuning so I'd assume it part of the "and more". I'd be scared to death of the timing chain failing if it was an A4.
junk car and you are such a big liar.
Thank you profesor for the good video and the time that you made to explain us how the pcv works , as clear as water, gracias .
Thank you Arturo Lopez for that positive comment and the view.
This guy talks to us like I talk to my 2-year-old...😂
Sir, take no notice of the students, thats what they do for enjoyment, they dont mean anything by it. You are good at explaining the detail,thats what matters!
Best video ive seen! Simple and very informative.
Thank you for that Positive comment. Thank you.
Awesome. It is 4am and I have spent all day trying to figure out my problems. Now I can confirm or rule out any PCV issues. Stress dropped quite a bit. I wish you were in Houston area, i could trust you for sure. Thank you.
didn't sleep at all last night, i am sleepy now, thanks again
Can't wait to wake up and do this test. Think last guy I hired rigged my system. Had vehicle 3x as long as he said he needed to, cost more than he said it should, and seems many many things have been bugging out since.
plus my discernment is top-shelf , wasn't at first in this case because I'd like to believe everyone is good, have to keep reminding myself I live on earth with human-beings
My 2012 Euro Civic (136000 km) consumes a little more oil than my wife's Euro Civic (2007, 210000km), i'm going to to this test on both cars. Greetings from Belgium!!🏁
Thank you for the comments and the views. It's just good idea to change the PCV valve and sometimes the hose that connects to the valve.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 Is it just replacing the PCV valve? No vacuum errors or resetting needed?
@@Tintoycar No programing needed. Just Plug and Play.
@@theoldmecanicoshow9004 I tested both our cars and the paper flew away 🙂 They are both 4 cilinders so difficult to trace a bad PCV valve?
@@Tintoycar I have tested brand new four cylinder engines, and the paper does not stick. Four cylinder engines are not large enough to produce the volume of vacuum, needed to put the crankcase under negative pressure. Only the larger four cylinders (2.6 or 2.8 ) can stick the paper.
This is the first time I come across this Mexcanico Master.
I like your teaching style alot, your delivery timing is perfect for teaching and learning. I only had to watch your video one time.
Other mechanics who teach virtually talk to fast or don't annunciate clearly or both, so I have to watch their videos many times to really grasp their spill. Thank you sir, keep up the good work. I look forward to learn more from you.
Thank you very much for the view and that awesome comment my You Tube friend.
THANK SO MUCH JORGE, , I LEARNED MORE ABOUT PVC THIS TIME, HAVE A WONDERFUL DAY.
You are very Welcome. Thank you for the positive comment.
Thank God this man was NOT my instructor when I was in trade technical college studying auto mechanics, I wouldn’t have the patience to listen to him.
Thank you for this video! Super clearly understandable. I wait for your next videos.
You are Welcome. Thank you for the views. New show soon.
Wonderful, repetition instills rememberance, Thankyou!
dont know what he smoked but I want some
Very well explained. I will bring this video up to my teacher Kirtland Community College in Grayling, MI.
Thank you for that awesome comment, the view and taking it to your teacher. Are you taking automotive classes?
I really enjoyed listening and watching your video. I learned something new. Thanks!
Just subscribed!!
Thank you for that very nice comment and thank you for subscribing.
Gracias Jefe, me saco la riza pero aun mas importante aprendi algo!
Man!! I just subscribed to this channel. Thanks man really appreciate it you sharing your knowledge. I’m a DIY on my vehicles and this kind of information helps sooooo much. Again thank you 🙏!
You are Welcome and Thank you for that awesome comment, the views, and the subscription.
Well I learned something today. Thank you for taking the time to make a video you are very knowledgeable and have a great sense of humor
You are Welcome and Thank You for the view and awesome comment.
Learned a lot from ya’ ! Thx 🙏🏼
I liked the humour at the end ! You are a total A.S.S.
Adroit . Skilled . Solid. 🏆
The world needs more coaches like you . 👍🏼
Thank you very much for that awesome comment.
Great teacher.
Important little part in the engine.
Thank you for the view and that awesome comment.
What are your thoughts of a pvc delete? To be more specific, installing an oil catch can and venting off the remainder as apposed to recirculating? Can modern cars with their computer and data demands operate properly with such a modification?
The path that has brought me to these thoughts and questions is modern direct gas injected engines and the troubles associated with that. The carbon and dried oil build up in the intake manifold and the problems associated with that to be exact. Problems that I'm still learning about and trying to grasp.
Are oil catch cans an answer and should they be vented, or recirculated?
Your knowledge shared would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the question. Yes, a catch can is a very good idea. I would add the catch can and leave the PCV system installed. Thank you for the views.
Plug the vacuum side of the PCV, and turn the crank vent tube to a down ward direction. Cars from the 1900's to mid 60's all used a 'down draft tube' stop sucking a vacuum in your cranks case, you're mystifying the oil, and burning it... making the air/environment dirtier.
Direct injected cars develop carbon deposits on the valves which can reduce fuel economy and performance. I know somebody that did a pcv delete with vaccum side hose leading to the pcv blocked off, and the pcv replaced with an aftermarket straight through fitting on the valve cover with a hose that leads a catch can then a hose to the bottom of the engine. Their is a second hose that leads from the valve cover to the intake. That hose is disconnected from the intake and pointed down to under the engine again, and the intake side plugged off. So basically the valve cover is at atmospheric pressure, he has been running like this for 50k+ miles and the turbo 4 cyl runs like a beast.
@@dpok69 Catch cans work great. I plan on installing one on my vehicles.
EXCELLENT technical and humourous video. Do more.
Thank you for the view and that awesome comment my you tube friend.
12:50 One more important exhaust gas: H₂O. That definitely doesn't belong in your engine oil! Loved your clear and emphatic explanation, thank you. On a 4-cylinder engine, would pinching off the breather hose allow the paper/dipstick test to work as on a larger engine?
Just to answer my own question: yes, when I block the breather hose, the pressure measured at the dipstick tube drops gradually, reaching about -20 kPa (6.5 inHg) vacuum after about 10 s. Not as strong a vacuum as at the intake manifold, but definitely working. With the breather hose unobstructed, the dipstick pressure stays around ambient.
I also tested the PCV valve by attaching a syringe to the PCV hose coming from the engine, and confirmed that air can be drawn out of the crankcase, but the valve blocks return air. So I'm pretty sure my PCV valve is OK. :)
Thank you for the comment. I have seen larger 4 cylinder engines ( 2.8 L) stick the paper. I never thought of pinching off the breather before. You don't have to pinch off the 6 and 8 cylinders.
Does this mean that if you have a 4 cylinder engine you can make the paper stick by installing a more narrow breather hose? And therefore fix the problem that 4 cylinders have with creating crank case vacum? Or would that create more problems?
@@commentcrafter4158 My understanding is that while the paper test may not work with 4-cylinder engines, they still have enough vacuum to produce enough PCV flow to ventilate the crankcase and avoid pressurisation. You probably wouldn't want to block or restrict the PCV or breather hoses in normal operation. However, if you want to do the paper test, you could temporarily pinch or plug the breather hose.
@@commentcrafter4158 I believe that under some conditions of high speed, heavy load operation the "breather" hose is actually needed to handle the blow by gases created and under those conditions the flow is reversed so that it is into the air intake tube. So probably not a good idea to restrict that hose too much. Maybe a little? I don't know.
This is a very good video! Complete, thorough, and clear! Thanks!
I'm Glad you liked it.
Bro you just taught me so much - subbed!
Thank you for the Subscription. Please share with friends and family. Thank you again.
Greetings from Australia!
Brilliant presentation.
"Howdy" from Texas. Thank you for that Awesome comment and the view.
He's talking to us like we're all dipsticks!
He is teaching new bees...people who have no pre knowledge.....be patient ya ❤
😅😅😅yep
Don't do drugs kids
Yeah but who’s the ‘ASS’?
Just wanted to let you know that your video was very helpful as well as much appreciated.. you can be my teacher any day..
Awesome...! I'm so glad that I can help. Thank you for the views and that positive comment.
Love this guy! he is like the Cheech and Chong of mechanics
Thank you for that comment. I liked it...:)
Spot on 😆
Reminds me of my father but he speaks Spanish. Good info
Only one I can remember is "Buster the Body Crab". 😂🤣🤣😁
I 2nd that lol
I was laser focused watching and learning but then I cracked up at the end of the video because of the patch... thank you for the information sir already subscribed and will watch more
Very funny ! I'm glad I made you laugh and that you learned about the PCV system. Thank you for the view and that awesome comment.
Just drive without oil dipstick and problem is resolve..
I have a 1986 305 Chevy,( in California!) It's got more smog system's to be analyzed than I believed possible. But this is a good place to start. Now all I need to do is rebuild a computer controlled Q- jet,swap in an RV cam and get my mind examinerd. Thank you
Thank you for the comment and the view. I remember the Q-jet computer controlled carburetors . We use to call the Quadro-jet carburetors Quado-junk. Thank you again for the view.
Thanks! I was just going to change my PCV valve ($50 for the HEMI). My paper stuck, so I'll probably be okay to wait a bit longer?
Thank you for giving my channel a view.
The pcv valve changes when you accelerate this is just the idel test
Very good video learned about PCV Value system, thanks a lot.
You are Welcome and thank you for the view and the comment.