Fixing A Husqvarna Chainsaw That Won't Start Using An Aftermarket Carb
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
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Thanks for watching. We finally get to trying out that new carb, on the Husqvarna chainsaw, but it doesn't go well.
I would have rebuilt the old carb. They are very good carbs. I love to keep older good brands original.
thank you Linda Osborne.
Finally a gal mechanic, great!
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE This. When you order a carb kit that is the same price you might think why rebuilding but those cheap carbs are often just junk.
I agree with Linda. Buy a carb kit and rebuild the OEM carb is the best option.
I would buy the aftermarket carb, but after having seen this video, I will now also check the operation of everything, including the choke release. This problem might just be uncommon, so I would return & try again with a replacement, unless it was urgent. And I was very impressed with your skill set in figuring out the reason and a work-around. In the end, this was a big success, congrats.
you are correct, although I think the mistake I made was getting the cheapest one I could find. I believe there are better aftermarket carbs out there, and would only cost a little more.
I think I would have just bought a rebuild kit and cleaned and rebuilt the OEM carb. New diaphragms on neglected saws is almost a given…
In response to your question, now that you have taught me one more thing about carbs I’d feel even more comfortable purchasing an aftermarket carb. Thanks for sharing that bit of knowledge to add to my arsenal. 👍🔧🧰
All of that said, I would have purchased a carb rebuild kit first.
no problem and thank you for your time.
Saw starts and runs well. Cheap fix with a good result and you still have the old carb to rebuild if you have any future issues.
you're completely right!
That spring was pitiful. I agree 100% on trying to tease the aftermarket into working. I have wrecked a couple new aftermarket carbs along the way when I should have ordered a different one and returned the wonky one.
I hear that.
From best to worst: 1. New OEM carb, 2. OEM carb kit, 3. Aftermarket carb kit, 4. Aftermarket carb
thanks!
I don't often go for the "cheapest" aftermarket carbs. I do like HIPA, Huztl, and I've used a couple others that have proven to be decent enough. I try to rebuild the OEM ones first, and if that doesn't work, then I go aftermarket carb. This is for the quality products, like Husqvarna, Echo, Stihl. For the other brands, I'll still try to rebuild if I have the kit already on hand. If not, I just go right to aftermarket carbs. I generally buy in bulk from a Chinese company that has quality products, and try to keep about 8-10 different rebuild kits for 2 cycle carbs.
nice method of stocking parts.
I have had 4 HIPA replacement carbs on various 2 strokes and am very happy with all 4.
Very well done. Very honest discussion of that age old question of OEM vs Clone. Thank you very much.
thank you Tom Cox.
Looks like a beast of a saw
it's very good
Most of us probably don’t have the knowledge you do and would have bailed on the aftermarket unit and bought the OEM unit making it 2 carb purchased.
What do you use when spraying down these units in the beginning of your video?
you are correct, I would always suggest getting an OEM carb, If the budget allows for it. The cleaner I'm using is a degreaser from harbor Freight.
I love watching these videos😄😄😄
thank you! I appreciate it
You're welcome😄
I also had to modify an aftermarket carb to replace an OEM carb on a pressure washer that required some choke modification to work but it was so beyond worth the money saved and works great.
that makes sense
Sometimes on the aftermarket carb depends on who manufacturers them you will get some that work close to oem specific without any adjustments to them and some they just throw together and unfortunately have to modify it to work right . maybe the oem carb was the way to go or rebuild the original one if able to , a good job with this husqvarna chainsaw .
I think you're right, thank you Turningwrenches85.
I usually rebuild and not buy the aftermarket carb, but honestly I would have probably done what you did and gotten the aftermarket carb with the intention of using the parts if I found the carb cheap and didn't already have the kit on hand and I wasn't putting an order in to one of my suppliers in the near future. Great job getting that carb to work, it's well worth it to have a saw in good shape like that running. Equipment is only going up in price so that kind of fix is a good plan. 👍👍👍👍
thanks patthesoundguy
Nice saw.
Thanks 👍
The tiny spring on the throttle shaft is used to retain the throttle rod in the throttle arm. Your pictures show the throttle rod resting on top of the straight end of this spring. The straight end of the spring must be hooked over the throttle rod, which holds the rod down and prevents it jumping out of engagement.
In other words, lift up the tiny spring end with tiny pliers, place the rod in the arm (push it down), then hook the spring over the rod. This requires a a lot of patience.
thank you !
I always try to rebuild the original, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner and get a rebuild kit. But if I need to get an aftermarket one, I had pretty good luck with HIPA brand aftermarket carbs.
When they bring me a aftermarket carb I keep a label the used one with model and name of owner
Then kit as many as i can in winter
They will be back and I’m ready with a good carb
nice choice
in this case, in answer to the question, I would probably get the Aftermarket carb for MY saw/equipment, but if it was for a friend or a "Customer", i'd definitely go the OEM route. It "may" work for a while and be fine, but if there's any kind of issue with it, they're gonna be bringing it back.
Good lord though, the price of OEM stuff is ridiculous! it's insane how much parts and everything have gone up with the ridiculous inflation rates we're having! Great video IHG!
you make a good point, the only issue is that if they let their saw get this way, when it was new, it's going to get that way again, no matter which carb you put in there. I admit the an OEM carb would take a bit longer to go bad vs an aftermarket one though.
thanks for changing the link you are awesome😄👍
no problem!
One question: Would an ultra sonic cleaner work on electronic devices? Like the circuit board and the abs plastic?
yes It would
Excellent work effort. Congratulations on your successful analysis and problem resolution. From my experience, there's no certainty the OEM carb would have been problem free.
you make a good point, and thank you
I loved the first part I was waiting for the second part I think this is the second part if not my bad
this is the second part.
love you vid
thanks!
I am curious why you didn't just rebuild the OEM carburetor. I always use aftermarket carbs and sometimes have to modify them or swap parts from the original .
cost, the OEM rebuilt kit is extremely expensive when compared to anything other kit.
I've gotten both and would rather go with OEM if I can. Knockoffs are scetchy at best and I'd rather go with an OEM kit than hope I don't get a pig in a poke. Thanks and Husky makes a good product too and if I didn't have a Stihl it would probably be a Husky OR another top rated brand. After all, it's just a blasted saw. Blessings!
you are correct, this has to be the sketchiest one yet, but at least it still works.
I have used many aftermarket carbs with good results. Often they are shipped with additional pieces like fuel lines, primer bulbs, fuel filters and such at no extra charge. Worst case if it fails there is no hassle returns to the distributor. The entire kit is cheaper than an OEM rebuild kit.
you are correct and it's well worth the risk.
Before l buy a new carb, l would get either an oem (prefered), or either a stens or rotary rebuild kit from the dealer. I have had good luck doing that. I have actually bought a used oem carb and rebuilt it to replace a knock off carb. If l were to replace the whole carb l would more than likely go OEM before going aftermarket. Unless what l was working on wasnt worth the oem one. Great video!!
thank you Ethan Miller
Hello sir, I really love your videos because you explain everything very well, I have a question regarding this same model of chainsaw, mine only turns on without the muffler, what could be wrong? in fact I removed the spark arrestor because I thought it was clogged but still doesn't run with the muffler on
the issue? the internal of the muffler could be obstructed.
If you feel as though this muffler is the issue, try getting a different muffler.
If the issue is still there, I would perform a compression test.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE The piston looks good but I do feel very weak compression when pulling the pull rope :(
Are you sure the cheap carb is defective in not returning the choke to the full open position? I have worked on some saws that use the intermediate position that you show as a fast idle setting.
hmmm..
Awesome we knew you could do it 👍
thank you William White, although I have had some of these end up as parts.
I brought a 345 back to life the cylinder was wiped out due to someone ran straight gas in it. Bought a cheap Chinese cylinder kit and it's doing fine. Has around 10 cords of wood under it's belt right now.. My factory carburator doesn't return the choke either. But like you said I'm aware of the problem and it doesn't really bother me.
very nice work!
I would always by oem more or less. That way, I will never have any problem fitting a new part, or like you did: making changes, so it can fit
I can agree to that.
Well, it worked out. Good job.
thank you Jim
Question...what brand and type of cleaner are you using seems to work quite well. Thank you Shoe
it from harbor freight, and it's call Super Heavy Duty Degreaser.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE Awesome thank you for the quick response have a harbor freight in town will get some next time I'm there. Enjoy your videos keep them up....Shoe
anytime
I probably would have swapped the return spring first before modifying the detent spring. You can swap the return springs back if it doesn’t work. If shortening the detent spring doesn’t work, you can’t grow it back. All in all, great job!
makes sense
I have had pretty good luck with the Hippa carburetors. They seem to be better quality than most. Aftermarket for this one due to the expense. Is a rebuild kit available for the OEM carb?
Thanks for the video.
I've got to keep that in mind next time, thank you Waterman one
I am presuming that a carb rebuild kit was not available.?.?..... Given your knowledge (thanks for sharing it with us)that to me would have been the way to go.
yes I was not able to find one for some reason, and if did It would have been more expensive than an ordinary kit.
Since everybody beat me to the punch and there's no need to beat a dead horse, but I agree rebuild the OEM carburetor is your best option. The Walbro HD carburetors are one of the best carburetors ever made. I can never understand why anybody would use an aftermarket carburetor rather than rebuild the OEM is beyond me!
thank you stihlhead
Aftermarket carb all the way. I recently fixed a free non running blower. New carb + new gas = working blower. For the cost of a new carb, I can buy a working blower.
thank you William Chu.
What is the basic start L and H setting? Turns from both closed.?
not sure, but if I had to guess, 1.5 turns would be a good place to start.
I had to fix my snowblower. I was given it because "it never ran right".
You had to leave the choke on partially, or it would die. Some idiot decided that a small engine would never need the mixture adjusted even in subzero weather. I found a cheap replacement from an older model with mixture screws and I now have the only snowblower around that actually runs right. No hunting, no stalling, and I would bet it pollutes less in the few hours you use it in a year than before.
how nice!
You can never have too much pizza! 😁
lol!!
Hipi carbs are only ones I’ve used and there pretty good
If you use aftermarket carb keep the old carb clean and in a plastic bag
You’ll need it later
I might have to go with them .
use permament thread lock for that choke plate bolt. i had some chainsaw with that bolt ended inside engine...
yes you are correct.
Did the same thing...oem part is the best
thank you Jeff Newman.
Mama Mia that was a tough one...
you got that right, didn't think I'd have to rebuild the new carb, to get it to work
I’ve replaced carbs on trimmers and chainsaws and for some reason, it seems like I don’t really have good luck with aftermarket carbs, but I have better luck when I rebuild The carbs I’m not sure why
to each their own, it certainly seems like you have pretty good luck with them.
Would you work on a veiwers generator or chainsaw
I have, they're just local viewers, not those that I don't know. The logistics to working on stuff, from other places is just too prohibitive.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I'm from the east Texas aera and I gave a old generator it has a Briggs and Stratton engine with a updraft carburator I believe it needs a carb would you be interested if I would ship it to you
That saw looks nice now. I go cheap
me too.
Here's how I see this. The rebuild part, i.e. diaphragms should not be the price they're asking. My guess, the profit margin is either tremendous on the carb or the little parts have a very low profit margin. You'd think a company like Husqvarna, being a premier saw that is used by professional all across the country would be more accommodating.
I know right, but then again they are a company meant to make money selling a product. So I can understand if they are not so accommodating .
A OEM one.. for sure
thank you JJ Juarez.
Do you have any advice on how to price a repair?
sure, how much is your time worth per hour, and then guess how long it should take to fix the machine. I hate to tell you, doing it this way, will cause the labor price to be high and most people don't fix stuff because of the high cost.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE thank you
no problem
The walbro carb will swap for the zama carb i did it on my saw
thank you for the tip
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the walbro is the HDA159A and the zama is the C3-EL18 carb
gotcha
Couldn't you have got a rebuild kit for the old carb, that way it would have been kept original and avoided all the messing about with the choke mechanism ?
yes I could have
Well, like "they" say..." You can spend time making money, or Spend money making time" Depends on which side of the fence you fall off....
you make a good point,
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE 👍👍😊😊
I rarely buy OEM parts. I have had good luck with clone carbs so far, and I have never had any issues. The OEM carb for one of my riding mowers is $175, while the clone is $18. That means that I can buy 9 clone carbs before I spend the same amount that I would have to spend on the OEM. If one or two are no good, it really doesn't matter. The materials in the OEM carb may be better, but there is not enough of a difference to justify charging nearly ten times as much for it. I will buy OEM parts if the price is reasonably close to the clone, but I can't justify it when there is that much of a difference.
I like the way you think!
I made a comment about the type of fuel you and I would recommend at another channel. I got a reply from a guy stating that the difference between 86 octane and 89 octane is not worth the cost for what real difference it makes. I replied to him stating that it is not about the octane level but rather the fact that the 89 octane we are referring to has NO ethanol in it. I also said that if lower octane with no ethanol was available we'd purchase it. He still did not get the reasoning behind our choice of fuel. So, I ignored his comments.
I think you did the right thing.
After market vs OEM? Usually I want OEM but there are lessons here, and OEM Husqvarna is usually more expensive than say Honda or Echo OEM. I've had Husqvarna but not again, even brands under Husqvarna like Jonsered, in this case a single stage snow thrower. The Jonsered was ultimately traded in towards a new Cub Cadet 3X HD snow blower and replaced by a Honda HS35 because the paddles, which are consumables, would end up costing me $140 per season. The Honda in after market end up costing me less than half.
thank you for the information
I would of rebuild the old carburetor. But if not I would buy a cheap one. 👍🙏👍🙏
makes sense thank you RayFpv.
I'd look for an OEM rebuilt kit first, aftermarket rebuilt kit second, full OEM carb third. After that, it's a parts saw. 😂😁
Not a bad idea
I most likely would put an oem carby on it. Those chainsaws last for years.
thank you Christopher Marshall
I would get neither the cheap nor the expensive carb. Just a brand new (genuine) diaphragm... Then cleaning the old carb and put the new diaphragm on and you're good to go.
great choice
My decision matrix would involve the original cost of the item being repaired. On something like this chainsaw I would likely take a big gulp of air and buy the O.E.M. Carburetor.
wow, that's quite the gulp.
Who’s pizzas papa johns pizza hut or dominoes. My dad is old school 32/1 is what he uses
nice!
I would have spent the money on oem carb that’s if they still made that carb because if the saw was really old they may not make that carb anymore witch means you would have to get aftermarket carb anyway
perfectly good choice
Just get a gasket kit the only cost 15-18 dollars, easy to install
thanks
3:18 I just use a small zip tie.
OEM parts only. If you're going to have top of the line equipment go with what it needs. Does the cost of the correct OEM carb equal having to buy a new Husqvarna chainsaw when the cheap parts burn up the one saw that you have now?? Going with cheap parts is about as bad as leaving old gas in it all winter long. Bad things happen sometimes unrepairable and or very expensive. Spend the extra money for stock OEM parts that are right , take good care of it, use fresh and correct fuel mix and you have a great and reliable piece of equipment that will work and last for generations to come.
makes sense thank Shawn Dubay.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE you're welcome. I had some really great classic equipment from Stihl and tried to fix them with the cheaper parts and it wound up frying the engine well beyond repair specifically the bearings and the cylinder/piston. Yep it was as ugly as it sounds. Totally cooked for a $100 in total parts cost that would have saved them possibly to this day. Please my friend learn from my mistake and run the good quality genuine parts. It really sucks loosing great equipment. Will never go cheap on parts for repairs.
I appreciate the information
I would sooner use after market carb even thoe some times you gotta do something to it. Oem carbs are so expensive for what they do but that's just me
you are correct, OEM carbs, sometimes makes repairing stuff, prohibitive, so an aftermarket carb, makes it a possibility
personnally i will take the aftermarket carb for a chainsaw but for something like an atv always oem
makes sense
Rebuild old carburetors are better then cheap carbs
you got that right.
I think OEM is always better but sometimes you have no choice...
you make a good point
I buy the aftermarket carbs. If one in 10 is junk I'm still far ahead
I like those odds.
I did that cheapskate repair on my Stihl leaf blower. I paid $15.00 for a China knockoff carburetor what a waste of money, took blower to a Stihl dealership and paid $58.00 for a OEM carburetor $43.00 for new Stihl carb and $15.00 for China carburetor. Blower runs like new now….never again Beijing!
lesson learned!
I would have kept the original carb. I would have at least ran it to see if it worked. If it didn’t work I would have bought a rebuild kit for it.
with metering diaphragm as petrified as it was, it wasn't going to work.
I would buy OEM.
good choice.
I would’ve rebuilt the carb that came with it.
thank you Mike Jones.
I would have just rebuilt the original carb, cheaper than 10 pizzas 😂
makes sense
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE I have had decent success with clone carbs, I replaced a Nikki on a 17hp rider with one, but I had to drill the main jet to make it larger because it was surging. You make some good videos, keep it up and thanks 👍
thank yo Above Average JOE, and good move on the jet.
OEM for good quality machines. Cheap aftermarket for low quality machines.
Great point!
I used to pick up chainsaws needing repair to service, and sell them for the money I had in them. People, at least in NE Indiana, want stuff for nothing. I literally had someone wanting a saw I serviced for less than the bar, and chain I purchased for it.
wow, that's unbelievable, you didn't sell it did you?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE No way I was going to. The bar, and chain was $41 if I remember correctly. The buyer attempted to get me to sell them the saw for $30.
i have bought three items online,non of them worked,so the lesson is don't waste your money on bargains.
thanks for sharing your lesson .
95% of the time it’s fuel pump diaphragm and metering diaphragm
Cost 5.00 . Just buy a extra kit and kit it during winter and swap carb every year
thanks
Choke return spring.
thanks
You should find an old Honda three wheeler and fox it. Just an idea
I’m a strong believer, you get what you pay for, but that being said, I probably would of done the same thing you did except I would of sent it back instead of modifying it.
I can see that.
I personally wouldn't get a new carb i would just get a new metering diafam and stick with the original carb
nice choice
Cheap carbs will always cost you dough.
*ba-dum-tss*
you're right about that.
Why couldn't you have bought a new diaphragm? Seemed like more work than it was worth of you factor in time. Cuts through dry rot wood real well. 😜
cost, I was only able to find the diagram for $14, and the aftermarket kit only cost a few dollars more for a whole, carb, spark plug, air filter, adjusting tool, fuel line filter. I hope you can see why I went with the kit.
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE yeah, that makes sense now, fixing the aftermarket carb was cool, huge flex for your mechanical skills.
I am a one pizza kind of guy.
lol.. me too a pepperoni please
Alway buy OEM!!!!! Not the cheap Chinese knockoff crap!!!! Shoe
you got that right.
you are a profational
meh, I'm a tinkerer at best. Thank you Sanders Braeckmans.
I Frankensteined an original and aftermarket carb together and it's still running like crap. I didn't like a little sliding bar the aftermarket had and original was worn out. Might have to see if I can put the aftermarket one back together and look for issues with how it works and hopefully have it running as good as this.
Great point!
oem carb kit
Thanks for voting
If it was my Chainsaw or selling the saw i would have Bought 2 to 3 Cheap Carbs and find out which one works the Best the after market junk out there is just Hit -or miss
interesting method, have you done this before then?
@@INSIDEHOUSEGARAGE the answer to your Question a youtube guy sixtyfiveford mention this same problem a few years back what he did he bought i believe 3 Cheap Carbs and out of the 3 one only work correctly and the other 2 were sent back for a refund i have done similiar to what you have done not in return but Scavenging Parts out of one Carb to the other and also bought a bunch of Brushes for the Cheap Generators AKA HF LOL my rule of thumb if i see a part i need for a mower or any yard equipment that is DIRT CHEAP i buy 2 or 3 of that idem you are working on again just return the other parts for a refund or keep them for spare parts and this goes for auto parts and Tools is another good one Torque Test Channel good info on Tools BTW dont want to be Rambling here trying to get you some simple info ...... Hey take care love your Channel you got Great Content and an easy voice to listen too and you have the passion to repair small engines as i do
I see, thank you