If you are installing a weld on handrail it will take out the flex. With handrail tied to all the steps and a foot to floor at top and bottom tread this will tie all the steps together and will taking out most the flex you having. Like the work you do and the free hand plasma cutting is excellent.I enjoy watching your progress Good luck on your future projects....
I still say you make the best free-hand plasma cuts i have seen. Keep doing what your doing. I enjoy the videos you two produce, thank you for sharing.
I love those floating stairs!!!!!! The flex would never bother me! I am sure this is all solved by now...But, I agree with Intidatorswrath - the railing could be used to to reinforce the out side edge.
Been cutting and welding for 40+ years and I have never used a guide! You only need one if you cant pull a straight line and have the discipline to control your torch! From what I can see you have the best of both and your cuts look fantastic!
Just a couple things for ya. I think I pointed this out before but about the worst an inspector is going to be able to do is insist that 300lbs at the railing land doesnt cause a deflection greater than 3/8" and that the riser height at full deflection is still smaller than the maximum riser height. So you are very close right where you are. I think I would get your final risers on and recheck beause you are going to have some twisting when you step on a riser that is further out and that twist is going to be additive to your deflection measurement. (Its measured at the nose of the stair). Looking awesome! Love checking in and seeing what youve gotten done. It really is a cool project.
I am at 22:41. 2 posts on the back running from the beam to the floor welded on both top and bottom flanges will reduce more flex than the small plates you welled in. I cannot wait to see how that works for you.
Funny, Most stairways seem to flex a little, BUT, MOST, stairways are supported on both ends so the flex is straight down and unnoticeable. You are doing really well and I will bet that most of the critisisim is from people that have never done what you are doing
Hey guys! First I want to say I love your vids. Let’s just go with those stairs! It seems sturdy enough. You know an ordinary staircase flexes too right! Keep up the good work👌🏻
37.10 in the uk our tapes come with inches on one side and metric on the other so measuring small gaps can be quite easy - if one side doesn’t quite line up then the other will. I am in no way metrificated but It does come in handy sometimes😊🇬🇧
Looks good. I'm new to your channel. I've built industrial staircases and flex is normal. When you run up and down you will get vibrations. The worst case scenario is a group on the stairs for a portrait or carrying furniture. I think you are fine.
Every artist knows that when you start out, use a guide and once you become good, they tend to get in the way. That's why DaVinci used a freehand circle as a measurement of skill rather than showing the Vatican his drawings.
The maximum deflection allowed in steel is 0.003% of the span so that if the tread width is say 1m then the deflection is 3mm. In this case the deflection will probably consist of the deflection of the angle and the twisting of the channel section string so that the angle is probably well within the allowable deflection and the channel section ought to have internal stiffeners (that ought to have been included before it was installed.
Hi guy's love your work the home is coming along very nicely from what I can see .ps how old are the videos. Have you guy's actually finished the place or are we seeing it in real time
If U want bolt holes round and looked as if drilled ?with a tapered pin punch a machinist’s hammer .while hottest from cutting .put punch in hole n hit it a few times then confirm with bolt .4’levers for steps each foot of step length multiplied leverage .U2are learning.this is best teacher.i have every confidence in The 2of U .clean tight welds devoid of perosity is best advice .U are having fun while learning . Have a good one !
Your flex appears to be more of a roll towards the front of the tread. This might rectify itself with the finish tread attached. At worst, a gusset on the end of each stair might fix the roll and could be hidden within the finish tread.
This staircase reminds me of one I designed and was built for a house around 10 years ago, the detailing is nearly identical. Why were the stiffening plates for the channel added after the string was installed?? They should have been part of the fabrication prior to installation All of this staircase should have been detailed designed before fabrication, it would have made the process so much easier..
The reason nobody shows the floating stairs and the person walking in the same frame is because they all flex. No matter what you do, you're only securing one end and therefore, physics says that if you stand on the very edge, there'll be a vertical displacement.
Handyman.... or was it Handeeman.... IDK - he closed up his channel and moved to South America - anyway, he built his house in the desert using ICF blocks.... and LOTS and LOTS of steel. He did a floating staircase AND a spiral staircase out of steel.... but no... I don't remember him showing us any flex. They were nice stairs just the same. In your case... you've told us you will be adding a tread and a riser I guess... but you've given us no clue as to the final look you are going for.... other than the floating staircase look. I'm just thinking that if your treads and risers are wooden, I bet you could hide reinforcement in the tread/riser combo somehow. Love your videos!! (Oh... and maybe I came to the channel too late... but you ought to introduce your husband to us.... maybe share his background information. He sounds French to me.... but I don't really have an ear for that sort of thing. I always love when people who are obviously meant to be together find each other across the oceans... or even just borders. Excellent!)
Plan C: weld the riser to the next tread? You're going to cover the steel anyways, it turns the staircase into one cohesive unit (literally no flex) which means you still have your floating staircase.
@clivewilliams3661 not if they're putting, say wood, on both the risers and treads. In effect the covering would be, for lack of a better term, a veneer for the steel.
@@markryan3739 If you look at the tread angle in section you will notice they don't overlap so getting any connection between treads would be problematic to achieve. I must admit I remembered the same detail I designed on a near identical staircase, where the treads were free floating that is the common traditional perception on a cantilever tread staircase. The treads will have to be finished in a material like the oak cladding that I used on the tread and short rier. this detail gives a solid feeel to the stairs as you rise up it and open from all other angles. The nosing of each tread needs to overlap the tread of the one below (the going) to give a comfortable operation in use. I trust the setting out of the bottom and top treads takes the thickness of any covering into account to give an even and equal rise to each tread. Apart from wrapping the steel in timber, it would look really superb with either dressed or cast (lime)stone treads and risers.
Eine Frage am Rande: Ihr wohnt ja sehr abgelegen und weit ab von nächsten Nachbarn. Wie funktioniert das bei Euch mit Hausmüll und Co. ? Müsst Ihr regelmäßig selbst zur Deponie fahren oder wird der Abfall an einem bestimmten Ort in der Nähe abgeholt ?
Quite funny that negative/"you're doing it wrong" comments come from those who do not have their own channel...do they not actually do anything?...sitting and criticizing... very sad...humans are a species that can not be universally admired...
If you are installing a weld on handrail it will take out the flex. With handrail tied to all the steps and a foot to floor at top and bottom tread this will tie all the steps together and will taking out most the flex you having. Like the work you do and the free hand plasma cutting is excellent.I enjoy watching your progress Good luck on your future projects....
Jess you have a very steady hand. No guide needed.
Welded chains from the treads to the floor would look really cool. Like a piece of art.
I still say you make the best free-hand plasma cuts i have seen. Keep doing what your doing.
I enjoy the videos you two produce, thank you for sharing.
I love those floating stairs!!!!!! The flex would never bother me! I am sure this is all solved by now...But, I agree with Intidatorswrath - the railing could be used to to reinforce the out side edge.
seems like we been watching the stair build for a year now. I hope I live long enough to see the finished stairs
Good morning 🌅,one step closer 😂, step in time saves nine 😂, ok I stop now, Great Work Guys, 💔 from France.
Been cutting and welding for 40+ years and I have never used a guide! You only need one if you cant pull a straight line and have the discipline to control your torch! From what I can see you have the best of both and your cuts look fantastic!
Awesome job
Tieing the ends of the stairs together with a floating hand rail would look cool and tie the stairs together, and still allow a little bounce.
What I mean is have the rail that your hand and vertices tubes going down to each stair. The whole unit would still be floating but more of one unit.
Just a couple things for ya. I think I pointed this out before but about the worst an inspector is going to be able to do is insist that 300lbs at the railing land doesnt cause a deflection greater than 3/8" and that the riser height at full deflection is still smaller than the maximum riser height. So you are very close right where you are. I think I would get your final risers on and recheck beause you are going to have some twisting when you step on a riser that is further out and that twist is going to be additive to your deflection measurement. (Its measured at the nose of the stair). Looking awesome! Love checking in and seeing what youve gotten done. It really is a cool project.
I am at 22:41. 2 posts on the back running from the beam to the floor welded on both top and bottom flanges will reduce more flex than the small plates you welled in. I cannot wait to see how that works for you.
I'm learning a lot about welding from you. Thanks!
Love it so much keep it up as always 💘
You could run a rod iron bar along outer edge from top to bottom!
That would combine the strength from multiple floating steps.
Looks good you’re moving up in the world one step at a time take care always.
you can easily resolve the fllex problem with a wedge welded below the tread or a gusset
It looks great!! Live with the Flex.
Funny, Most stairways seem to flex a little, BUT, MOST, stairways are supported on both ends so the flex is straight down and unnoticeable.
You are doing really well and I will bet that most of the critisisim is from people that have never done what you are doing
😎😎😎😎😎
👍👍👍
Your effort is inspirational! Nice work.
Hey guys! First I want to say I love your vids.
Let’s just go with those stairs! It seems sturdy enough. You know an ordinary staircase flexes too right!
Keep up the good work👌🏻
Looking better now. Hopefully it works out for you.
Those eyes 😍
You're SO pretty.
Looks good to me, puts a little spring in your step!
The stairs look really good. Did you try running up & down to see if it will flex more? Are you putting wood on the treads? ❤
Y’all are just awesome steel workers! Those floating stairs are sexy!
37.10 in the uk our tapes come with inches on one side and metric on the other so measuring small gaps can be quite easy - if one side doesn’t quite line up then the other will. I am in no way metrificated but It does come in handy sometimes😊🇬🇧
Just add a hand rail, which is required anyway for safety.
Looks good. I'm new to your channel. I've built industrial staircases and flex is normal. When you run up and down you will get vibrations. The worst case scenario is a group on the stairs for a portrait or carrying furniture. I think you are fine.
I’m assuming you will put wooden (or something else) treads on . That should pretty much eliminate any bounce I think. Looks good.
how are you doing that? I can't get a cut that straight even with a guide. you're very talented.
Every artist knows that when you start out, use a guide and once you become good, they tend to get in the way. That's why DaVinci used a freehand circle as a measurement of skill rather than showing the Vatican his drawings.
❤❤❤
That amount of flex is so little it wont bend, it always comes back to it's original position.
The maximum deflection allowed in steel is 0.003% of the span so that if the tread width is say 1m then the deflection is 3mm. In this case the deflection will probably consist of the deflection of the angle and the twisting of the channel section string so that the angle is probably well within the allowable deflection and the channel section ought to have internal stiffeners (that ought to have been included before it was installed.
Hi guy's love your work the home is coming along very nicely from what I can see
.ps how old are the videos. Have you guy's actually finished the place or are we seeing it in real time
A gas with the flux core will make your world more flexible like it does for a semi trailer are used to weld Stoughton trailers together their frames
If U want bolt holes round and looked as if drilled ?with a tapered pin punch a machinist’s hammer .while hottest from cutting .put punch in hole n hit it a few times then confirm with bolt .4’levers for steps each foot of step length multiplied leverage .U2are learning.this is best teacher.i have every confidence in The 2of U .clean tight welds devoid of perosity is best advice .U are having fun while learning . Have a good one !
2024.
Maybe a middle ground is having something on the left going up (not down) ps not done watching so maybe you don’t need that anyway ~fingers crossed~
Your flex appears to be more of a roll towards the front of the tread. This might rectify itself with the finish tread attached. At worst, a gusset on the end of each stair might fix the roll and could be hidden within the finish tread.
Black?
This staircase reminds me of one I designed and was built for a house around 10 years ago, the detailing is nearly identical.
Why were the stiffening plates for the channel added after the string was installed?? They should have been part of the fabrication prior to installation All of this staircase should have been detailed designed before fabrication, it would have made the process so much easier..
The reason nobody shows the floating stairs and the person walking in the same frame is because they all flex. No matter what you do, you're only securing one end and therefore, physics says that if you stand on the very edge, there'll be a vertical displacement.
Handyman.... or was it Handeeman.... IDK - he closed up his channel and moved to South America - anyway, he built his house in the desert using ICF blocks.... and LOTS and LOTS of steel. He did a floating staircase AND a spiral staircase out of steel.... but no... I don't remember him showing us any flex. They were nice stairs just the same. In your case... you've told us you will be adding a tread and a riser I guess... but you've given us no clue as to the final look you are going for.... other than the floating staircase look. I'm just thinking that if your treads and risers are wooden, I bet you could hide reinforcement in the tread/riser combo somehow. Love your videos!! (Oh... and maybe I came to the channel too late... but you ought to introduce your husband to us.... maybe share his background information. He sounds French to me.... but I don't really have an ear for that sort of thing. I always love when people who are obviously meant to be together find each other across the oceans... or even just borders. Excellent!)
Plan C: weld the riser to the next tread? You're going to cover the steel anyways, it turns the staircase into one cohesive unit (literally no flex) which means you still have your floating staircase.
You will ruin the whole aesthetic.
@clivewilliams3661 not if they're putting, say wood, on both the risers and treads. In effect the covering would be, for lack of a better term, a veneer for the steel.
@@markryan3739 If you look at the tread angle in section you will notice they don't overlap so getting any connection between treads would be problematic to achieve. I must admit I remembered the same detail I designed on a near identical staircase, where the treads were free floating that is the common traditional perception on a cantilever tread staircase. The treads will have to be finished in a material like the oak cladding that I used on the tread and short rier. this detail gives a solid feeel to the stairs as you rise up it and open from all other angles. The nosing of each tread needs to overlap the tread of the one below (the going) to give a comfortable operation in use. I trust the setting out of the bottom and top treads takes the thickness of any covering into account to give an even and equal rise to each tread. Apart from wrapping the steel in timber, it would look really superb with either dressed or cast (lime)stone treads and risers.
I believe you are making too much fuss over minor deflections I really think you do remarkable work together.
Eine Frage am Rande: Ihr wohnt ja sehr abgelegen und weit ab von nächsten Nachbarn. Wie funktioniert das bei Euch mit Hausmüll und Co. ? Müsst Ihr regelmäßig selbst zur Deponie fahren oder wird der Abfall an einem bestimmten Ort in der Nähe abgeholt ?
Quite funny that negative/"you're doing it wrong" comments come from those who do not have their own channel...do they not actually do anything?...sitting and criticizing... very sad...humans are a species that can not be universally admired...
Patty said use a cable from steps to ceiling
I gave new name to you, I hope you like it, let me know your new name " fancy face lady"
You have only a problem. You dont know how built a house. You dont know how calculate the structure.It is bettere if you ask to tecnician you are not.