I've been an electrician for over 40 years and learned when I was an apprentice not to use the back stab holes and over the years I saw the reason why. Those connections do not grip the wire tightly enough and once a little corrosion gets into that connection it fails. I recently changed all of the devices in several houses in a 30 year old housing tract, one house had a fire as a result of a loose back stab (high resistance) connection and the rest of the houses hired me to do the same for them as a precaution. Over the years the most common place for a back stab failure has been any electrical box on the outside of the house where it is exposed to heat/cold and humidity. Nice video!
Why apply the term “high resistance connection “ With regards to a defective electrical connection that has overheated. In a 120V circuit When you load match a resistive connection in series to a load that normally draws 12A. You’re looking at aprox “ 10 ohms” and 720 Watts for that resistive connection. Of course it’s an ohmic value relative to the circuit at hand thing, But pretty soon you’re gonna have people believing that 1000 ohm “high-resistance-connections” burn houses down.
Craig, we had a defective electrical connection in a basement bathroom shower overhead lighting fixture junction box where the wiring glowed orange as it smoke-checked through the Romex 12/2 insulation for 3” outside of the junction box. (This occurred due to a dead short circuit that occurred for about 5 seconds and was stopped), but the 20 amp single pole breaker didn’t trip and was not defective. Why didn’t the circuit breaker trip? Would that high resistance connection have had about 20-30 ohms?
Yeap. I have found several failed switches and outlets while doing repairs in older homes that used these type of "connections." I always use the screw tightened connection.
I've seen outlets that have the backstabbing into a spring loaded connection fail after repeated heating and cooling caused by high current draw. However, there are outlets that allow you to put the wire straight in from the back that are OK. The ones that are OK have a plate under the screws. The wire is put straight in under the plate then the screws are tightened down to hold it in place.
Yes, those types of connections are good. You don't have to bend the wire and it makes a nice neat, solid connection. I think those are better than tightening around a screw because the wire is compressed only instead of dragged around the screw.
I've been an electrician for 15 years. I see 1-2 homes per year where using the holes in the back of the outlet or switch fail in making a good connection. They usually last a while unless under heavy load. Use the wrap around method. Ya it takes a little longer but they don't fail.
I called an electrician! He's happy for the work. I can watch and learn and not end up on the other side of the room with smoke coming out of my ears! Wrapping is definitely harder but definitely stronger. the ones I did change were done that way. Thank you!! thanks to all who commented. God bless, stay safe!
I’ve been an electrician for 33 yrs and 85% of my troubleshooting calls are because of this back stabbing. So many homes have burned down because of this method that they invented AFCI breakers and devices. The customer says “my lights flicker or my outlets don’t work” and I say “yep, most likely back stabbing.” I don’t know why they just don’t stop making them.
I had two outlets fail in my home (5th owner) because of a previous owner using the back stab method extensively. Took 3 nights to pigtail and switch to the screws.
I read the comments below and agree "stay away from the push in holes for connection'. Current runs threw a wire and produces heat. Over time this breaks down the snap connection. There are now some receptacles and switches that a straight wire can go behind a plate that requires the screw to tighten. This is by far the best of both worlds. The only down side is cost a little more. But when I advise home owners - I highly recommend these and actual refuse use any else. It was good advice about/above the stripe length. Plus the video did not mention when tightening around the screw make sure right to tight (direction)for the half dome connection.
Black wire brass screw, white wire to nickel plated screw. Make sure both screws on each side are tight and the ground is also properly connected.. Wrap the exposed screw heads with electrical tape around the black plastic part of the receptacle or switch housing before installing. into the wall box. The tape prevents inadvertent contact down the line and although not required by code doesn't hurt anything.
Having experience that started 40 years ago I never use the push in method with one exception and that is if the load being supplied is only a few amps. And never ever use the push in method when you are feeding through because you should not use a device as splicing point. Always use a pigtail splice so if you have to service that device you don’t have any possible issues from an open neutral. Be sure to take pride in your work because electricity can be deadly
I agree. If you stab-lock your wires, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" will that connection fail. I would bet that you've pulled many plugs out of the box and had the wires just slip right out of those holes. I had it happen on 3 plugs just yesterday, troubleshooting a converted garage (now bedroom) in Dallas, TX. (I guess I'm still a rookie. I started in '83.)
What? No lock-out/ tag-out training? A guy with 40 years experience should know better than to work on anything "live". That eliminates any possible issues with opening a neutral. This is 2020, we don't work on live circuits anymore because as you said "electricity can be deadly". And why do you think there are 4 screws on a receptacle? It's perfectly acceptable to wire in and out of a receptacle and not considered a "splicing point".
@@SteveWhiteDallas Nonsense. If you stripped the wires to the correct length, and it's the correct gauge, and the receptacle is not some used piece of junk, it's near impossible to pull the wires out after they're in. Even after they've been in "proper" use for decades. They are designed that way and UL approved, but even so, I always use the screws only because I'm a bit of a perfectionist, to a fault.
E Nigma acceptable doesn’t mean it is good. There are times that there is no other way to work on something. And one should always work as if it was live just in case of several possibilities. Btw what is your experience with doing the work
While I agree with everything you have said. I feel like the need to make the call for creating a pigtail at an outlet to feed a receptacle is a needed augmentation to the code. Like you, I also disagree with using any device as an integral part of the circuitry. I feel the stab method is a viable option in scenarios that have low loads and or actuation. Since it is nearly an impossibility to predict the usage of a receptacle, I would also recommend to not use them.
Great tutorial, thanks for posting. I've been an electrician for over 40 years. Countless times I've replaced outlets and switches which were faulty due to the easy insert back wire holes. Over time they inevitably ark and become scorched and intermittent, especially if pulling a lot of amps. Although it is more time consuming to use the screws, it's worth it. Good point Stephen, observe polarity on receptacles. The positive or "black" wire goes to the copper screw, the neutral or "white" goes to the silver screw, and the ground or "bare" wire goes to the green screw.
You're right Dan, there's always a chance that you're encountering a situation that was wired by "Joe Do-It-Yourselfer" and not up to code. I encountered a light switch once in which someone was switching the neutral instead of the hot. It turned the light on and off, but the current was continuously looking for a ground path at the light fixture.
@dan cussin That's a nightmare! In those days most houses only had a 60 amp service with fuses in lieu of circuit breakers, and the few outlets only had a hot and neutral with no ground. Then you're adding the curse of numerous DIYers which most likely has you considering earning a PHD in profanity. The worse part of troubleshooting any kind of electrical problem is deciphering someone else's shoddy work. I can also relate to precarious mounting techniques. I've seen countless ceiling fans mounted to flimsy plastic boxes. That's like taking your chances sitting under a crashing helicopter.
@dan cussin Damn, phone problems too? The plot thickens! The high and low voltage wiring were most likely done simultaneously. Residential phone wiring is at the top of the no-brainer list. If they botched that, no wonder you're having so many glitches. Well, at least analog POTS (plain-old-telephone-service) is essentially antiquated in lieu of VOIP (voice-over-internet-protocol) so you can abandon those circuits. Look at it from a positive perspective Dan, you're slowly removing the Murphy's law curse. Eventually you'll be free from pulling rabbits from the hat!
Is the codes body or the manufactures of the outlets not in touch with the installers? I mean everyone here saying don’t use the push fit terminals. Then if there that bad then they should be banned and re designed and made fit for purpose. To me terminals should be of a captures screw type and shrouded.
As a licensed, master commercial electrician, please never use the holes on the back the switch or receptacle. It will only become a loose connection over time. I can’t begin to tell you how many service calls/repairs I’ve made because of this particular wiring practice. Actually many inspectors will fail this particular wiring practice.
The strip gauge on the back of the device is the amount you need to strip when you secure the wire in the backstab on the back of the device. These backstabs are just what the derogatory name implies, I never use them when I make up a device. They depend on spring pressure to secure the wire in place and make an electrical connection. These connections have a tendency to fail over time, especially if the outlet draws heavy amperage loads. The spring looses pressure after many heating and cooling cycles and the wire becomes loose and stops making contact. This can build up heat and lead to electrical fires. It is okay to make a connection to the device with the grooved terminals on the side that tighten down with a screw. Just make sure to tighten the screw down enough. All devices should specify a tourqe rating for the side terminals to be tightened to. If you can, always wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it down. You will need to strip off about 3/4's of an inch of insulation to do it properly. Also take a pair of needlenose pliers and close the loop of wire on itself around the screw. Make sure the end of the wire is touching the begining of the loop so it can't wiggle off the screw. And as one of my apprenticeship teachers said, "always twist it clockwise". I still remember him singing this little jingle to us after 24 years.
@Tom Garbo I watched an electrician once and he wrapped the outlets ,I've done it that since,never question ed it.The houses we built never got plastic boxes so I guess the tape wrap just made sense to me.
Colin, I understand what you're saying. The push-in option has been around for decades to make it easier and faster than using the 'wrap around' terminals which I will admit can be a bit cumbersome and time consuming. If you're an electrician wiring a new house with dozens of outlets, time is money. In this DIY world the "murphy proof" design of receptacles isn't likely to change any time soon. Regardless of the method you use, I strongly advise purchasing quality wiring devices. They cost a bit more, but they utilize solid copper connectors instead of aluminum alloys so you're purchasing good insurance.
Excellent instructional video. Thanks so much for your technical expertise on this common failure. Another point to address - I never knew what the pointed needle nose pliers were for. In all my years, I've never seen a use for them until now. It makes a clean 180 degree hook. Thanks again.
Really??? You've never known what pointed needle nose pliers were for??? What about the colours of the Roberston screwdriver? Ok the colours are very common in Canada but the pliers are like electrical 101
Excellent video! A+! Great camera angles and great lighting, focused on the subject rather than a talking head, and overlaid with clear, concise, accurate commentary. You can't hear it, but I'm applauding.
The push-in holes in back are known as stab-locks. As a professional, I do not recommend their use, especially with size 14 wire. Use the screws, and tighten them properly. Note: If you really don't know what you're doing, call a pro.
100% agree! Get a pro. Those stab connections provide a side pressure which depends on the sharp edge of the stab tab to prevent the wire from pulling out. Force a 12 gauge wire in and there's less angle but more contact. Use the correct wire size (14 gauge) and they lock better (not the best - but better than a 12 gauge wire) but their contact surface is reduced. Screwing is always the best practice. And if one is not certain - calling a pro is advised. Again, Brian, I 100% agree with you. Oh, and I've seen people try to stab stranded wire into those holes. Had a landlord who did that. The guy was as sharp as a fuzzy tennis ball.
As an electrician for 37 years now I agree with everything that was said in this video. The only addition that I would say is that the quick plug option is what I find to be the weak link in the electrical connection. Years ago the quick plugging of 15 amp devices with #12 (20amp wire) was outlawed because of too many fire starting because of poor connections. They do still have quick connect holes for #14 (15amp wire) though. I chose to never use this feature and always attach the wires to the screws or pigtail the wires in the box and eliminate the chance of a poor connection on the outlet being a potential problem.
Mr Panda I’ve never had a callback in 37 years but have been to too many service calls where the outlet is burned up because it was quick plugged years ago. I just believe in doing a job right the first time.
Interesting. I would never use a stab hole either but I must admit i didn't know that by tightening the terminal screw associated with the hole that this tightens the connection. Is that true?
Yup, Yup...being a homeowner, and knowing about electricity and plumbing, and more...grandpa was a carpenter, neighbor was an electrician in the local steel mill, another neighbor was a plumber, father was a truck mechanic...learned a lot growing up, and as a homeowner doing my own repairs and more...
First thing I learned in high school technical school. I remember the day I did wrong. My teacher made me do it over. We actually serviced the whole school dept if it was electrical we did it. Even live panels. This was the late 90's early 2000's. What a learning experience. I went on to the industrial electrical world.
The best way to do this is to strip the wire first and then bend it 90 degrees so it is perpendicular to the insulation, then bend the bare wire. This makes it easier to fit under the screw and to tighten it down. It also centers the wire on the screw instead of to the left.
Good advice. Also be sure not to mix up the line and load sides. Line is where the power comes in from and load feeds the next outlet if there is one. Brass screws are power and silver screws are neutral. Green is ground. Stay safe and GOD bless! 🇺🇲⚡
@Nicholas Blakeney they would that for older light fixtures (pre-led, compact florescent), incandescent light bulbs have no polarity. as in, it don't matter which is hot or neutral, it will work either way. green or a bare wire is always meant to be a ground. should not be used any other way. here in USA white is supposed to be used as a neutral, but can be used as a power wire or switch leg, If done so, then it is supposed to be colored, (black, red, etc) to show that it could be a power wire. black, red, blue, are used as power wires for 110-240 volt circuits. Brown, orange, yellow, are used as power wires for 277-480 volts and up, not normally found in residential. but there are the odd cases, like it was the only wire they had on hand, or it has faded or been bleached by the elements of the years. the colors not just help identify the possible voltage, but also the phase. outside of residential, it can be common for all wires to be black, and then marked with a few rings of color tape.
Especially in kitchens where heating appliances are used , Always use the commercial grade outlets and never use those outlets where you just push the wire in to make the connection , Always use the screw terminals for a much better connection , Bad connections are the number one cause of electrical fires and with heating appliances , Good connections are extremely critical because it will otherwise overheat and catch on fire quickly , The circuit does not have to be overloaded to start a fire , Having a bad connection is enough to start a fire , I always use the commercial or professional grade outlets and switches for added safety
Good information all the way up to the point of “back stab method” as a licensed electrician NEVER NEVER use the convenient method of stabbing the wire into the back side, very big fire hazard. What happens is the spring loaded latch that grips the copper as you push it in, after time, some immediately, have a loose connection and loose connections will cause heat and arcing that will eventually lead to fire. This is especially important for higher current / amp items such as microwave and other appliances that pull a decent load. NEVER use the back stab method to wire a plug or switch or anything, to be honest from what I’ve seen over the years it’s becoming harder to find electrical devices that allow the spring loaded back stab method, used to be found on your $0.99 cent plugs and switches from Walmart.
Not to mention, if the circuit has lighting in it, the wires will jump from the in rush...never stab a wire! Screws are there for a reason, stabbing is just plain lazy!!
Common sense tells you that the amount of surface contact when using the stab in the back method is a tiny amount, causing overheating and a failure, as you have described. I would never use this method and have always replaced burned out receptacles with screw down landing. This stab in style should be outlawed, and I cant understand how it was ever allowed to be an acceptable method of joining anything remotely close to 14AWG which operates up tp 15 Amps. Insane.
At least those 99 cent units still have screws so you can do it the right way. I had to redo an older rental unit that was originally push-in wired with outlets & switches without any terminal-screws - except for grounding!
I agree on NOT using the push in connections on the back of any outlet or switch. It's all about the contact area and pressure applied to the connection. This can NOT be achieved with the thin copper strip touching the conductor in a back wire connection. On any high current carrying circuit this would be the weak point and cause for excessive heat build up. Proper terminations under a screw are always the way to go!
Not that it matters, but I also like to line the cover plate screws vertically. Just more pleasing to me. I think it shows a little more pride in your work.
... use the screws n' wrap with tape n' center the receptacle - level the cover - line up the screws - done ... always :) ... received many a compliment for that few moments of xtra thought given
I never back stab receptacles they fail often and could burn down your house. I wrap the wire and sometimes wrap tape around the outlet for extra measure.
An additional pointer for those installing modern wall outlets: the 3rd hole, the ground of the receptacle points down to the floor. Doing this provides mechanical safety when plugging in 3 prong plugs. good video, thanks.
Great video. Tips are wonderful. You make it look so easy. I'm an old woman with hands that are not as strong as a man. Bending 14 gauge wire is really hard. Strippin' and wiggling those wires around those screws is a test of my patience and strength. What should be a 10 minute job for a man turns into an hour of free flowing expletives coming from this old woman's mouth that makes my kids wonder "what the he!! is mom doin'". I just make sure hubby is fishing while I'm wiring. 🤣🤣🤣
I'd never recommend "back-stabbing" a receptacle, 90% of the service calls I get to repair outlets are due to this "shortcut". If you absolutely must be lazy and decide to use the holes in the back please keep in mind that they are typically only good for 14awg wire. 12awg won't fit.
Silvia may not be joking. I’ve seen some pretty F’d up stuff! There is a neighborhood here where the installer drilled out the back holes on every device to be able to fit #12 wire.
Good point. I don’t choose to use the push in connectors either at home or for small jobs to avoid potential future issues. However an electrician wiring an entire house will often use them for the 15 amp circuits for efficiency. They’re code compliant and can save a lot of time. But for installing one or only a few receptacles, or any circuits 20 amp or higher wrap the wire around the screws. And don’t be afraid to twist them tight.
dave miller Hey, I couldn’t believe it either! Only thing I could figure to make it financially feasible is if he had a bunch of kids drilling them out. I’m sure they drilled too far and damaged some of them. That may be why we were there repairing dead outlets. I don’t remember all the details now.
Push in holes can also cause overheating especially the grip type I've seen it many times the ones that tighten with the screw are better but using the screw post is best
The ones that tighten with the screw holes are in my opinion just as good as the side screw method provided the proper gauge wire is used for the back wire using the screws to tighten the wire as each half has a half circle cut out to fit the diameter of the wire so that the whole wire is gripped.
They can be used in many applications by nutting the run and pulling tails for each individual receptacle....I have found loads vary on the individual receptacle being used along the load and the home run receptacle is the one that fails every time!
for anyone new to this i would say this video offers some good tips. doing basic wiring is not that hard or frightening as long as no power is feeding into what you are working on.
Any body can buy an electrical book and wire something up. But in 6 months when your house burns down know that you didn’t follow the correct method which they don’t tell you in the book.
Y'all should see the way my house was wired when I moved in. Every breaker was 20amp, 14/2 wire for everything, 18 outlets on one circuit, never mind the the whole 3 bedroom house consisted of really two circuits. I circuit was the bedrooms and the bathroom and the other was the kitchen, dining room, and living room. Every outlet on the exterior walls had a lead coming down one side of the box from the attic and up the other side of the box back to the attic. Inside every one of these boxes the leads from the incoming and outgoing wires were soldered together with pig tails connected to the outlets. The house listed claimed the wiring had been upgraded, which I found was only from the weather head to the main panel. The power going to the detached garage was interior 14/2 stretched from eave to eave connected to two 20amp fuses....
@ Brian… sounds like a nightmare. The one thing I want to point out is that pigtails to connect receptacles is actually the proper way, but not the solder joints. Of course if it’s the last receptacle in the circuit then a pigtail is not necessary. Nor supposed to rely on the receptacle/devise to complete a circuit.
Wow , I was coming to the comment section to ask if push-ins were really as good as screwed terminals .... but thinking that because this video was posted like a year and a half ago , who knows " if " and or " when " I might get an answer ... Holy Crap , did this just repost in the last few days ???? a shit load of comments in the last 24 hrs... And YES , I got my answer Load and Clear .... Thanks
@@troyholley3615 The newer devices only accept 14 awg wire. I don't know why they ever accepted 12 gauge wire anyway, considering only 15 amp devices have the stab lock holes. At least I have never seen them on 20 amp or spec. grade devices.
Actually, most outlets and switches have self holding slots for wires. Of course if you're using a larger gauge than specified use the screws. Another aspect to consider, do you have the proper outlet or switch for your application? They come in 15 and 20 amp sizes. Be sure that you have the right size.
In some states and counties the back holes are not allowed. Please check with your local electrical inspector to clarify. Also of note; if the holes in back are used and your local/state code has rules against them and there is a fire, you home insurance can deny coverage because of improper wiring.
I have never backwired an outlet in my 23 adult years it's amateur .,just spend the 14 bucks on a pair of Klein strippers and use the holes to bend the wire,it'll get them right everytime.Great video
@@donm2067 Don, I I'm sure the contractor has a I don't give a s*** attitude and it's not my problem after the contract is done. As an electrician I've dealt with a lot of them. It's not about quality work anymore it's about quantity work how much you can get done in a day and move on that's where the money's at attitude.
Using the backstab method once the outlet has a good load on the circuit who's backstab types of connection usually work loose use the hook or clamp down when appropriate
When I purchased the old house I am now living in I opened up all the switch and receptacles and inspected the way the wires were connected about half were done wrong. I corrected all then I went under the house because I noticed most of the wing came up from below. I opened up all the junction boxes and found and repaired several loose connections. All were in my opinion possible hazards.
This is a good video. Thank you. I do not use the poke in connectors, as electricians recommended I not use them for safety reasons. In a number of outlets with plug ins, or duplex receptacles, I have found that old, used receptacles were installed. These garage sale specials may have saved someone money, but they are a serious safety hazard. The electrical connection was so poor, that a vacuum cleaner plugged into one of these plug ins would not even turn on, neither would a floor lamp. I usually install a higher priced industrial grade duplex receptacle which will last longer than the residential grade one. If there is medical equipment in the home, it might be good to have an electrician install much more expensive medical grade receptacles, etc.
Good vid Every single light switch that has stopped working in my house was wired with the push holes ( not the screws on the size ). Often times I found just moving it to the side screws fixed the problem .
DYIer here: I've never seen insulation under a screw. What I almost always see is an over-stripped wire, with an exposed conductor between the insulation and the screw, and often excess wire extending beyond the screw.
Sometimes the things we take for granted. This video is proof that we "know it alls" need to stop...listen, and take heed' then go back and fix those switches we installed. Even the punch in holes in the back of the switches...I never knew the screw still had to be tightened down although I never did rely on that method of wire attachment. THUMBS UP!
Using that Push Lock on a back of a receptacle, should be out a code violation! I have seen many that were lose and some that melted without drawing even 15 amps.
@@carlspackler91 … not the ones the OP is describing. The OP is referring to the Back Wire Clamping receptacles. You have to tighten the screws down to push the plate tight against the wires. That’s all I ever buy. It’s still quick and easy but clamps tight. It’s easily reversible if necessary. And it works equally well on solid and stranded wire.
@@MoonRambo702 I just get frustrated because houses are so damn expensive I Canada, and they're built by contractors that's couldn't build a sandwich, yet they do plumbing, HVAC, electrical
Make sure the hot or black wire is on the gold receptacle and the silver on the white or neutral wire. Bare copper or sometimes green wire is for ground wire only.
That was the first thing that came to my mind watching this. Was going to say something but seen you already have. Electronics are polarized and this mistake could affect operations of your electronics.
A very good point. Thanks. I see folks putting a note not to work with electricity if you are not an electrician and for the most part agree. However we have now entered a phase where enough instructions and proper review will one day allow the ambitious to do nearly any of the trade jobs. Prepare for many changes and if they are handled well all of mankind can benefit. I is rarely smarter than us.
Any one else hear a mash up of Scotty Kilmer from his auto channel and Leah from See Jane Drill? Just ribbing you mate. Thanks for sharing the info. I know some electricians get bent all out of shape when people share info online, but some people are going to have a go regardless. At the very least, giving them access to good information is important. We don't have that style outlet here in OZ and it's mostly only stranded line. The message is universal though. A poorly made contact is a recipe for problems.
Hey MBA- that’s exactly what I heard right off the bat. It definitely sounds a lot like those 2. Especially Leah- she’s awesome and a great teacher. Peace!
you are talking about the stab in outlets , I use the stab in with the screw that has to be tightened to hold it, they are fine, I have checked em many times
I have seen insulation under the screw... it is not an issue if the screw is torqued down enough. Maybe older fabric insulation was different, but vinyl just smushed down to nothing if you use large flathead screwdriver. Much worse to have too much exposed wire if, for example, they get sloppy jamming wires back into the box with the tip of that large screwdriver and nick insulation that is close to the terminals.
The term is receptacle. An outlet can be where a receptacle is mounted or a ceiling fixture. Astrip gauge on a device is there if you choose to back wire, not for making loops on wires.
Seems to me USA is behind in electrical installations I mean in UK the terminals in a socket or switch are shrouded and a terminal capture type not that silly rape around crap. That went out 50 years ago there’s no chance of shorting the earth (ground USA) to the box or touching the terminals as you pull it out the box (unless the wire pulls out the terminal of course). Also manipulating the socket or switch can cause the wrap around connections to come off especially if there more than one wire. Also having bare earth (Ground) wires in the box is never a good idea in the UK we have to sleeve them with green-yellow sleeving. This would be another point for them exposed side terminals too short to the earth (ground) exposed bare wires.
I thought this would be about why you should only use the screw terminals and not to use the holes in the back because they cause lose connections and fires. Instead he's doing the opposite. This guy is giving bad advice.
@@johnnygogo7773 **His advice is good. Both methods work, both are UL Approved.** The screw terminal was the original UL Approved method that was acceptable. The holes have a metal tab that grabs the wire making a gas-tight connection. Using the holes allows for faster work.
@@leef_me8112 your wrong i have had to fix hundreds of receptacles due to putting the wires into back of receptacles. what happens to metal when it get hot and cold why do you think the connection always comes loose. it sounds like your just a damn house wire i bet you dont even make pigtail joints on the hot and neutral wires before wiring the receptacles too.
By definition in the electrical code book the box in the wall for the plug is an outlet, the device that goes in the outlet is a receptacle, calling the receptacle an outlet is a huge problem because you may not get what you asked for because the box a light goes onto is also an outlet
Don’t use the rear push-in slots - ever! Also, don’t put two wires on each side of the receptacle - wirenut the two wires with a single pigtail and attach to the receptacle. Hot and neutral wires. (Correctly called the ungrounded and grounded conductors, respectively, in the NEC.) The video is correct with regards to wrapping the wire around the screw. I’m about to begin my 44th year as an electrician, 34 years as a master - and I teach apprentices. Be safe - if you’re not sure, call someone.
I understand what your talking about, parallel vs series. The reciptical he has you will need two wires (at least on the hot side), the tab is broken connecting the screws.
Mellow Rebel that’s funny. So how do you expect a gfci receptacle to be able to provide gfci protection to downstream receptacles if you pigtail off the line side?
It’s not against code to feed through a receptacle. Why do you think there is a feed-thru rating marked on the box the receptacle comes in? Also, on a gfci receptacle, you have to feed through the device to provide downstream gfci protection. It’s also not against code to use the stab in connectors.
WARNING: You need to check both outlets to make certain that you have turned off the right breaker or breakers. One could be wired through a switch that is turned off and the other could be still hot. If I can, I just turn off the main breaker.
Back wiring a receptacle doesn't give as much contact area as using the terminal and creates a possible overheating hazard when an inductive load is plugged in.
Yeah, keep using those stab in the back connections. They are one of my best moneymakers. They fail constantly. Fast for the installer, but a few years later they loosen up and cause intermittent connections or failure with heat. I just love it when I pull an outlet out and the stab in the back wire just comes off.
No! That strip gauge is NOT for making a Sheppard's hook to go around the screw! It is either for back-wiring or the dreaded push-ins (which should never be used) The amount of wire needed to use the screw terminals is longer!!! Yours is visibly short. The wire should meet, giving you the most surface area and always be clockwise (the way the screw tightens)
That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard. A wire popping out because of inrush? Sorry, I don’t think a household blender is going to cause a wire to pop off its terminal. And if it does, it wasn’t terminated correctly.
@@RB-xv4si lighting circuits cause wires to jump...sorry these are really big words and might be out of your league! Keep stabbing wires lazy-ass, and we'll keep fixing your mistakes!! Wow and get out of the trade PLEASE!
Joker Seriously hmm. Man, you sure do know a lot about me. For one thing, I never said that I stabbed wires in. I personally prefer to wrap them around the terminal when possible, like most electricians. I am pointing out that it is code compliant to make a stab-in connection and I don’t hate on anyone that does code-compliant work. I have my journeyman’s license in DC and I know the code. That’s all I have to say about that. Have a nice day.
Agnus Dei I agree. And I do go above the code in many aspects of my work. But when I see people come unhinged because of a personally held belief, it shows a lack of maturity and a lack of experience in the field. Let me give you a relevant example; there are multiple types of stab in connections on receptacles. There is the type that relies on internal spring pressure to hold the wire in and I don’t prefer to use those (although, again it’s code compliant). Then there is the type that after you stab in, the terminal screws can be tightened and that screw pressure on the pressure plate actually keeps the wire in place, and I have no problem using those. It’s exactly the same concept as terminating a wire on a breaker. I don’t think most of the guys watching this video are aware of this. They just don’t have the experience, so when a licensed guy (or foreman) that they know and respect tells them “never ever stab in you’re connections”, they take it as gospel because they don’t know any better.
Good video but please include; You should have shown which side the hot wire attaches to and which side the neutral wires attaches to and which one the ground attaches to.
The electrician is not born with the knowledge. We all started with the how to wire books. Young guys have to start some where. What kind of thinking is that "if you don't know dont even try".
Never backstab. I lived in a house with non grounded receptacles and when I a went to replace them the wires fell right out of the back. Explains why half of them didn’t work. Lol
He's using cheap outlets in this video, there are better outlets that you can backstab but they use the compression of the terminal screw to terminate. These spring contacts will fail in time because they lose their grip on the conductors over time.
@@MrFriesz Yep. That is a whole 'nother animal and better than the terminal screw method, I think. Practically fool proof because you don't have to bend the wire.
Gotta a question, Paul. I have a ceiling fan (bronze, and cool looking) that we haven't used in maybe 5 years. Primarily for the wood burning stove to circulate heat. I turned the wall switch on and the fan blades did not rotate (probably from non use), but I heard some slight clicking, or snapping, ever so light sparking of some sort coming from the switch. The switch was installed in 1992. Little by little, I'd turn the switch on another day, and eventually by testing it over several days, it finally started to rotate on its own. Will the fact that the fan may have been stuck from non use cause the wall switch to click a little? It doesn't sound off anymore since the fan now rotates, but we still won't use it. Thanks for responding back Paul.
@@TheBibleSays One thing I could never figure out was this: Years ago when I first moved in the house, I recognized the switch needed to be replaced. Went to hardware store, bought a name brand switch, and with the same wiring format, I replaced the switch. It didn't WORK! Tried and tried...nothing. So I called an electrician to do it. He said it was due to the polarity. The polarity was the clue. So he replaced the switch in 1992. It rarely gets used unlike a light switch that goes on and off several times a day. What if I replace the switch on my own? Do I have to be concerned about polarity if I follow the same wiring diagram again?
@@lostinmyspace4910 If you replace the old switch with exactly the same new switch, and wire it exactly the same way (black, white and ground) it should work. If there's another, 2nd, switch on the wall that can control the same fan, you likely have 3-way switches involved - and an extra red wire - instead of a normal 2-way switch. In that case it really helps to understand how they work and how to wire them. In either case, you should make sure the house wiring is correct: all too often I've seen houses/apartments with the white wire as hot and the black as neutral. Carefully check with a voltage detector to make you know what's going on inside the wall box. Switching should be done on the "hot" black wire for normal 2-way switches. And be aware that if a switch loop is somehow involved the white wire may also be "hot." Confused? It really helps to have experience and know what you're doing. When in doubt, get help. That sparking may have been a result of the fan being stalled. The sparking likely damaged the contacts inside the switch. Not a bad idea to replace it.
@@TheBibleSays Paul: Thank you for all your wonderful advise. I'm going to jump right on this, and get this safely completed. I hired an electrician back in '92, I may do just that again versus a potential house fire. Best of luck to all your videos. Man, do you have a wide array of videos out there. I have a wood burning stove that heats our home exclusively( 10-12 cords in winter) with a backup gas furnace when on vacation, and a few trucks for the business constantly checking for maintenance (thank you for your tips), we live on a well and draw ground water, and always checking under the frig for accumulated dust, fabric fibers in the lint catcher and outlet vent of the dryer, and I have learned to do my own maintenance on all my vehicles ( current Ford truck has 290,000 miles) and ONLY replaced the starter at 200,000. All components are original including muffler, tailpipe, cat. converter, alternator. !00% synthetic oil, Royal Purple from the beginning. I can afford a new truck, and my wife drives that. In my truck's lifetime, I want to see if I can reach 400,000 on the F 150, and thus earned honestly the bragging rights. Hail from Michigan!
I have been a UK electrician since early 90s, and the electical stuff we use now is made so well and safer. But watching this American stuff makes you wince in shock as it’s like going back to before I started. We used to use large type bacolite trips like those shown here. Then we upgraded those and added 30ma RCD safety breaker( this detects faults and trips power off) then later we combined Mcb (fuse) and RCD into one breaker of same sizecalled an RCBO which works better than a fuse and safety detection of faults i.e it trips faster than you can say ouch if you happen to electrocute your self. We use AC as it pushes you away but DC locks your muscles so you can’t move.
Never use the back terminals that simply grab the wire. The springy metal over time loses its springiness and will cause the outlet to heat up under high load and eventually fail and the damage depends on how hot the outlet got and for how long. The outlets where the back terminals rely on the side screw being tightened to hold the wire are the best choice as they have the benefit of the back wire ease with the secure wiring attachment of the side screw. The trailer I got maybe three years ago was made in 1996 and I checked the outlets. They were all back wire only so given my negative experience with back wire outlets throughout the years I promptly replaced every single one with the backwire where the side screw secures the wire in place.
True dat. A friend finished his own basement, thought the backstabs were a miracle. Inspector made him change them all. Did him a favor even if it chafed him at the time.
I wouldn't recommend using the holes at all - less reliable and harder to remove (kind of need three hands). I would also recommend using electrical tape to cover the screws - just 1 strip around the entire socket/switch. It prevents anything from touching the screws when the power is on. Sometimes, the box is made of metal, sometimes there are lots of wires jammed in, sometimes you need to open it without turning off the power (when you paint the room for example).
I have NEVER seen a receptacle where the back-stabbed wire can be tightened by tightening the side screw. CAN ANYONE VERIFY THAT SUCH RECEPTACLES ARE MANUFACTURED, FOR ME PLEASE? I have done electrical contracting work for 55 years. If I missed this, shame on me. I have NEVER used the back-stab holes; ALWAYS used the side screws. Nearly every troubleshooting call I did involving switches and receptacles was due to back-stabbed wires. Consider this.... the round wire pushes under a flat spring-loaded copper contact, which results in nearly zero contact area (some receptacles have a rounded-notch contact area to receive the wire, but not much better). If all 4 holes are used for in-and-out wiring, then there are 4 such contacts per receptacle. If there are eight (8)receptacles on that circuit, then the last outlet in the last receptacle has its load running thru 8x4 = 32 such near-zero-area-contacts. If the hairdryer or Window AC unit is plugged in nearly anywhere on this circuit (especially near the far end), this stabbed stuff is certainly going to fail. NOTE: If a neutral connection goes bad in this "daisy chained" series type wiring, resulting in an "open" neutral in the circuit, then the 120 volts on the circuit thru any operating connected load will be present at every neutral connection in the circuit between the load and the open neutral joint. SO, several NEC Code cycles past, it became a requirement to splice the neutrals at every outlet device, and make the neutral connection to each device (receptacle) by using a single pigtail. That way, if the circuit ever comes "open" from a loose neutral at the device itself, the neutral circuit itself is still remain intact, and the 120 volts will not energize THAT loose neutral connection. UPDATE for CLARIFICATION 080820: I HAVE seen receptacles that have a "hole in the back" where you put the wire in, AND THEN tighten a SIDE SCREW to secure it. Those are designed so that the side screw MUST be tightened to secure the wire. I have used those many times, and LIKE them. Those are a good product. BUT, those are not a back-"stabbed" wire, since they don't "stab in" under the spring loaded flat sheetmetal like a "true" stabin.
The pinching pushin style outlets and switches out to be outlawed. The amount of connection of wire to terminal is minuscule and relies on spring tension to maintain connection; one "hot" overload and tension fails. If one fails the outlets and switches being feed by it fail. Can be royal pain to find the failed outlet/switch in a run. The pushin with screw tension is superior (same for the wrap around) in just the amount of wire to terminal connection; now add mechanical tensioning; the only reason you'll have to change it is when heavy use of constant pluging in and out wears the prongs out. Especially in electrical, cheap ain't cheap in the long game; it can be deadly.
You guys are really funny even working on 110 volts Bt over here in pakistan We dont even care abt breaker is off or nt we directly work on 440 and 220 volts Even without having gloves 😎😎
I've been an electrician for over 40 years and learned when I was an apprentice not to use the back stab holes and over the years I saw the reason why. Those connections do not grip the wire tightly enough and once a little corrosion gets into that connection it fails. I recently changed all of the devices in several houses in a 30 year old housing tract, one house had a fire as a result of a loose back stab (high resistance) connection and the rest of the houses hired me to do the same for them as a precaution. Over the years the most common place for a back stab failure has been any electrical box on the outside of the house where it is exposed to heat/cold and humidity. Nice video!
Craig Wilson knows
Why apply the term “high resistance connection “ With regards to a defective electrical connection that has overheated. In a 120V circuit When you load match a resistive connection in series to a load that normally draws 12A. You’re looking at aprox “ 10 ohms” and 720 Watts for that resistive connection. Of course it’s an ohmic value relative to the circuit at hand thing, But pretty soon you’re gonna have people believing that 1000 ohm “high-resistance-connections” burn houses down.
Mr. Obvious, I think you're overthinking the point high Resistance connection is just a generic term for a loose connection.
Craig, we had a defective electrical connection in a basement bathroom shower overhead lighting fixture junction box where the wiring glowed orange as it smoke-checked through the Romex 12/2 insulation for 3” outside of the junction box. (This occurred due to a dead short circuit that occurred for about 5 seconds and was stopped), but the 20 amp single pole breaker didn’t trip and was not defective. Why didn’t the circuit breaker trip? Would that high resistance connection have had about 20-30 ohms?
Yeap.
I have found several failed switches and outlets while doing repairs in older homes that used these type of "connections."
I always use the screw tightened connection.
I've seen outlets that have the backstabbing into a spring loaded connection fail after repeated heating and cooling caused by high current draw. However, there are outlets that allow you to put the wire straight in from the back that are OK. The ones that are OK have a plate under the screws. The wire is put straight in under the plate then the screws are tightened down to hold it in place.
Yes, those types of connections are good. You don't have to bend the wire and it makes a nice neat, solid connection. I think those are better than tightening around a screw because the wire is compressed only instead of dragged around the screw.
I've been an electrician for 15 years. I see 1-2 homes per year where using the holes in the back of the outlet or switch fail in making a good connection. They usually last a while unless under heavy load. Use the wrap around method. Ya it takes a little longer but they don't fail.
it makes work for another electrician down the road and it’s faster, it’s a win win
@@mrpanda2655 lol
I called an electrician! He's happy for the work. I can watch and learn and not end up on the other side of the room with smoke coming out of my ears! Wrapping is definitely harder but definitely stronger. the ones I did change were done that way. Thank you!! thanks to all who commented. God bless, stay safe!
I’ve been an electrician for 33 yrs and 85% of my troubleshooting calls are because of this back stabbing. So many homes have burned down because of this method that they invented AFCI breakers and devices. The customer says “my lights flicker or my outlets don’t work” and I say “yep, most likely back stabbing.” I don’t know why they just don’t stop making them.
I had two outlets fail in my home (5th owner) because of a previous owner using the back stab method extensively. Took 3 nights to pigtail and switch to the screws.
I read the comments below and agree "stay away from the push in holes for connection'. Current runs threw a wire and produces heat. Over time this breaks down the snap connection. There are now some receptacles and switches that a straight wire can go behind a plate that requires the screw to tighten. This is by far the best of both worlds. The only down side is cost a little more. But when I advise home owners - I highly recommend these and actual refuse use any else. It was good advice about/above the stripe length. Plus the video did not mention when tightening around the screw make sure right to tight (direction)for the half dome connection.
OMG I'm so relieved. By the title I thought you were going to tell me I should NEVER use the "hook" method lol
Black wire brass screw, white wire to nickel plated screw. Make sure both screws on each side are tight and the ground is also properly connected.. Wrap the exposed screw heads with electrical tape around the black plastic part of the receptacle or switch housing before installing. into the wall box. The tape prevents inadvertent contact down the line and although not required by code doesn't hurt anything.
The best back wire sockets also use the screw to pull an interior plate against the wire. Makes it much easier to connect wires to sockets.
Having experience that started 40 years ago I never use the push in method with one exception and that is if the load being supplied is only a few amps. And never ever use the push in method when you are feeding through because you should not use a device as splicing point. Always use a pigtail splice so if you have to service that device you don’t have any possible issues from an open neutral. Be sure to take pride in your work because electricity can be deadly
I agree. If you stab-lock your wires, it's not a matter of "if" but "when" will that connection fail. I would bet that you've pulled many plugs out of the box and had the wires just slip right out of those holes. I had it happen on 3 plugs just yesterday, troubleshooting a converted garage (now bedroom) in Dallas, TX. (I guess I'm still a rookie. I started in '83.)
What? No lock-out/ tag-out training? A guy with 40 years experience should know better than to work on anything "live". That eliminates any possible issues with opening a neutral. This is 2020, we don't work on live circuits anymore because as you said "electricity can be deadly". And why do you think there are 4 screws on a receptacle? It's perfectly acceptable to wire in and out of a receptacle and not considered a "splicing point".
@@SteveWhiteDallas Nonsense. If you stripped the wires to the correct length, and it's the correct gauge, and the receptacle is not some used piece of junk, it's near impossible to pull the wires out after they're in. Even after they've been in "proper" use for decades. They are designed that way and UL approved, but even so, I always use the screws only because I'm a bit of a perfectionist, to a fault.
E Nigma acceptable doesn’t mean it is good. There are times that there is no other way to work on something. And one should always work as if it was live just in case of several possibilities. Btw what is your experience with doing the work
While I agree with everything you have said. I feel like the need to make the call for creating a pigtail at an outlet to feed a receptacle is a needed augmentation to the code. Like you, I also disagree with using any device as an integral part of the circuitry. I feel the stab method is a viable option in scenarios that have low loads and or actuation. Since it is nearly an impossibility to predict the usage of a receptacle, I would also recommend to not use them.
Great tutorial, thanks for posting. I've been an electrician for over 40 years. Countless times I've replaced outlets and switches which were faulty due to the easy insert back wire holes. Over time they inevitably ark and become scorched and intermittent, especially if pulling a lot of amps. Although it is more time consuming to use the screws, it's worth it. Good point Stephen, observe polarity on receptacles. The positive or "black" wire goes to the copper screw, the neutral or "white" goes to the silver screw, and the ground or "bare" wire goes to the green screw.
You're right Dan, there's always a chance that you're encountering a situation that was wired by "Joe Do-It-Yourselfer" and not up to code. I encountered a light switch once in which someone was switching the neutral instead of the hot. It turned the light on and off, but the current was continuously looking for a ground path at the light fixture.
@dan cussin That's a nightmare! In those days most houses only had a 60 amp service with fuses in lieu of circuit breakers, and the few outlets only had a hot and neutral with no ground. Then you're adding the curse of numerous DIYers which most likely has you considering earning a PHD in profanity. The worse part of troubleshooting any kind of electrical problem is deciphering someone else's shoddy work. I can also relate to precarious mounting techniques. I've seen countless ceiling fans mounted to flimsy plastic boxes. That's like taking your chances sitting under a crashing helicopter.
@dan cussin Damn, phone problems too? The plot thickens! The high and low voltage wiring were most likely done simultaneously. Residential phone wiring is at the top of the no-brainer list. If they botched that, no wonder you're having so many glitches. Well, at least analog POTS (plain-old-telephone-service) is essentially antiquated in lieu of VOIP (voice-over-internet-protocol) so you can abandon those circuits. Look at it from a positive perspective Dan, you're slowly removing the Murphy's law curse. Eventually you'll be free from pulling rabbits from the hat!
Is the codes body or the manufactures of the outlets not in touch with the installers? I mean everyone here saying don’t use the push fit terminals. Then if there that bad then they should be banned and re designed and made fit for purpose. To me terminals should be of a captures screw type and shrouded.
Best to wrap the conductor around the terminals, don’t trust plugging them into the hole in the back of appliance
Most wire strippers have a hole at the tip. Insert the wire through the hole and rotate your wrist 180 degrees. Makes a nice J end.
I purchased several quality sets of those wire benders. They are a joy to use, and perfection every time. Just how I like it.
He should of showed that.
As a licensed, master commercial electrician, please never use the holes on the back the switch or receptacle. It will only become a loose connection over time. I can’t begin to tell you how many service calls/repairs I’ve made because of this particular wiring practice. Actually many inspectors will fail this particular wiring practice.
O
The strip gauge on the back of the device is the amount you need to strip when you secure the wire in the backstab on the back of the device. These backstabs are just what the derogatory name implies, I never use them when I make up a device. They depend on spring pressure to secure the wire in place and make an electrical connection. These connections have a tendency to fail over time, especially if the outlet draws heavy amperage loads. The spring looses pressure after many heating and cooling cycles and the wire becomes loose and stops making contact. This can build up heat and lead to electrical fires.
It is okay to make a connection to the device with the grooved terminals on the side that tighten down with a screw. Just make sure to tighten the screw down enough. All devices should specify a tourqe rating for the side terminals to be tightened to.
If you can, always wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it down. You will need to strip off about 3/4's of an inch of insulation to do it properly. Also take a pair of needlenose pliers and close the loop of wire on itself around the screw. Make sure the end of the wire is touching the begining of the loop so it can't wiggle off the screw. And as one of my apprenticeship teachers said, "always twist it clockwise". I still remember him singing this little jingle to us after 24 years.
@Tom Garbo I watched an electrician once and he wrapped the outlets ,I've done it that since,never question ed it.The houses we built never got plastic boxes so I guess the tape wrap just made sense to me.
Colin, I understand what you're saying. The push-in option has been around for decades to make it easier and faster than using the 'wrap around' terminals which I will admit can be a bit cumbersome and time consuming. If you're an electrician wiring a new house with dozens of outlets, time is money. In this DIY world the "murphy proof" design of receptacles isn't likely to change any time soon. Regardless of the method you use, I strongly advise purchasing quality wiring devices. They cost a bit more, but they utilize solid copper connectors instead of aluminum alloys so you're purchasing good insurance.
Excellent instructional video. Thanks so much for your technical expertise on this common failure. Another point to address - I never knew what the pointed needle nose pliers were for. In all my years, I've never seen a use for them until now. It makes a clean 180 degree hook. Thanks again.
👍😊
jewelry usually. There's a small hole on the side of your strippers, to grab the tip of the wire and do a nice twist of your wrist to bend it.
Really??? You've never known what pointed needle nose pliers were for??? What about the colours of the Roberston screwdriver? Ok the colours are very common in Canada but the pliers are like electrical 101
Excellent video! A+! Great camera angles and great lighting, focused on the subject rather than a talking head, and overlaid with clear, concise, accurate commentary. You can't hear it, but I'm applauding.
The push-in holes in back are known as stab-locks. As a professional, I do not recommend their use, especially with size 14 wire. Use the screws, and tighten them properly. Note: If you really don't know what you're doing, call a pro.
100% agree! Get a pro.
Those stab connections provide a side pressure which depends on the sharp edge of the stab tab to prevent the wire from pulling out. Force a 12 gauge wire in and there's less angle but more contact. Use the correct wire size (14 gauge) and they lock better (not the best - but better than a 12 gauge wire) but their contact surface is reduced. Screwing is always the best practice. And if one is not certain - calling a pro is advised.
Again, Brian, I 100% agree with you. Oh, and I've seen people try to stab stranded wire into those holes. Had a landlord who did that. The guy was as sharp as a fuzzy tennis ball.
@@petec6690 As Foghorn Leghorn said, "That boy's about as sharp as a bowling ball."
@@briancooper4959 Foghorn wired a lot of hen houses in his day, with no complaints!
Also do not use test lights use the right test equipment . Better yet call a pro .
As an electrician for 37 years now I agree with everything that was said in this video. The only addition that I would say is that the quick plug option is what I find to be the weak link in the electrical connection. Years ago the quick plugging of 15 amp devices with #12 (20amp wire) was outlawed because of too many fire starting because of poor connections. They do still have quick connect holes for #14 (15amp wire) though. I chose to never use this feature and always attach the wires to the screws or pigtail the wires in the box and eliminate the chance of a poor connection on the outlet being a potential problem.
Robert Post in new outlets theyre better
Mr Panda I’ve never had a callback in 37 years but have been to too many service calls where the outlet is burned up because it was quick plugged years ago. I just believe in doing a job right the first time.
Robert Post the newer outlets have a better stab lock
Interesting. I would never use a stab hole either but I must admit i didn't know that by tightening the terminal screw associated with the hole that this tightens the connection. Is that true?
Rocket Rider no
What I like about your instruction is the absence of fanatic safety talk. I like your style of explaining practical things really well.
... til u get 'zapped' following absence
Yup, Yup...being a homeowner, and knowing about electricity and plumbing, and more...grandpa was a carpenter, neighbor was an electrician in the local steel mill, another neighbor was a plumber, father was a truck mechanic...learned a lot growing up, and as a homeowner doing my own repairs and more...
👍😊 there is always something to learn.
First thing I learned in high school technical school. I remember the day I did wrong. My teacher made me do it over. We actually serviced the whole school dept if it was electrical we did it. Even live panels. This was the late 90's early 2000's. What a learning experience. I went on to the industrial electrical world.
Auto shop class in late 80's we'd service all the teachers and students cars for cost of parts.
Best class ever
Stay strong guy's and God bless
Excellent video. No talking head, just up-close clear images and clear descriptions.
The best way to do this is to strip the wire first and then bend it 90 degrees so it is perpendicular to the insulation, then bend the bare wire. This makes it easier to fit under the screw and to tighten it down. It also centers the wire on the screw instead of to the left.
Good advice. Also be sure not to mix up the line and load sides. Line is where the power comes in from and load feeds the next outlet if there is one. Brass screws are power and silver screws are neutral. Green is ground. Stay safe and GOD bless! 🇺🇲⚡
Wire and terminal color mnemonic: Green to ground, white to bright, and black to brass will save your ass.
Never heard that, but good one to know!
That’s solid!
@Nicholas Blakeney they would that for older light fixtures (pre-led, compact florescent), incandescent light bulbs have no polarity. as in, it don't matter which is hot or neutral, it will work either way. green or a bare wire is always meant to be a ground. should not be used any other way. here in USA white is supposed to be used as a neutral, but can be used as a power wire or switch leg, If done so, then it is supposed to be colored, (black, red, etc) to show that it could be a power wire. black, red, blue, are used as power wires for 110-240 volt circuits. Brown, orange, yellow, are used as power wires for 277-480 volts and up, not normally found in residential. but there are the odd cases, like it was the only wire they had on hand, or it has faded or been bleached by the elements of the years. the colors not just help identify the possible voltage, but also the phase. outside of residential, it can be common for all wires to be black, and then marked with a few rings of color tape.
@Nicholas Blakeney yes the bulls were ok, the sensor is sensitive to polarity,
Especially in kitchens where heating appliances are used , Always use the commercial grade outlets and never use those outlets where you just push the wire in to make the connection , Always use the screw terminals for a much better connection , Bad connections are the number one cause of electrical fires and with heating appliances , Good connections are extremely critical because it will otherwise overheat and catch on fire quickly , The circuit does not have to be overloaded to start a fire , Having a bad connection is enough to start a fire , I always use the commercial or professional grade outlets and switches for added safety
Good information all the way up to the point of “back stab method” as a licensed electrician NEVER NEVER use the convenient method of stabbing the wire into the back side, very big fire hazard. What happens is the spring loaded latch that grips the copper as you push it in, after time, some immediately, have a loose connection and loose connections will cause heat and arcing that will eventually lead to fire. This is especially important for higher current / amp items such as microwave and other appliances that pull a decent load. NEVER use the back stab method to wire a plug or switch or anything, to be honest from what I’ve seen over the years it’s becoming harder to find electrical devices that allow the spring loaded back stab method, used to be found on your $0.99 cent plugs and switches from Walmart.
Not to mention, if the circuit has lighting in it, the wires will jump from the in rush...never stab a wire! Screws are there for a reason, stabbing is just plain lazy!!
Common sense tells you that the amount of surface contact when using the stab in the back method is a tiny amount, causing overheating and a failure, as you have described. I would never use this method and have always replaced burned out receptacles with screw down landing.
This stab in style should be outlawed, and I cant understand how it was ever allowed to be an acceptable method of joining anything remotely close to 14AWG which operates up tp 15 Amps. Insane.
Buffalo Man I don’t know about homes burning down but it does cause a lot of problems.
At least those 99 cent units still have screws so you can do it the right way. I had to redo an older rental unit that was originally push-in wired with outlets & switches without any terminal-screws - except for grounding!
@@joemc111 he doesn't care...guys like this have no idea how electricity works!
The basics, getting the basics down on anything you do is so important. Paul great video well done. Thanks
Thomas Blue 👍😊
Thomas Blue even spelling? 🌚
Just funnin ya, spellcheck
@@kevingrove4379 thanks for the reply, I guest I should practice what I preach. Thanks
I agree on NOT using the push in connections on the back of any outlet or switch. It's all about the contact area and pressure applied to the connection. This can NOT be achieved with the thin copper strip touching the conductor in a back wire connection. On any high current carrying circuit this would be the weak point and cause for excessive heat build up. Proper terminations under a screw are always the way to go!
Hi, Your explanations are clear and easily understandable. I wish you provide more video related to electrical.
Not that it matters, but I also like to line the cover plate screws vertically. Just more pleasing to me. I think it shows a little more pride in your work.
... use the screws n' wrap with tape n' center the receptacle - level the cover - line up the screws - done ... always :)
... received many a compliment for that few moments of xtra thought given
I never back stab receptacles they fail often and could burn down your house. I wrap the wire and sometimes wrap tape around the outlet for extra measure.
An additional pointer for those installing modern wall outlets: the 3rd hole, the ground of the receptacle points down to the floor. Doing this provides mechanical safety when plugging in 3 prong plugs. good video, thanks.
Fuk that just break off the ground plug
@@GERRYMALONEY47 that might be a shocking surprise sometime
Easy to understand narration. Thank you for sharing a short and concise vid.
Mean Green 👍😊
Great video. Tips are wonderful. You make it look so easy. I'm an old woman with hands that are not as strong as a man. Bending 14 gauge wire is really hard. Strippin' and wiggling those wires around those screws is a test of my patience and strength. What should be a 10 minute job for a man turns into an hour of free flowing expletives coming from this old woman's mouth that makes my kids wonder "what the he!! is mom doin'". I just make sure hubby is fishing while I'm wiring. 🤣🤣🤣
I'd never recommend "back-stabbing" a receptacle, 90% of the service calls I get to repair outlets are due to this "shortcut". If you absolutely must be lazy and decide to use the holes in the back please keep in mind that they are typically only good for 14awg wire. 12awg won't fit.
@Sylvia isgod lol
Silvia may not be joking. I’ve seen some pretty F’d up stuff! There is a neighborhood here where the installer drilled out the back holes on every device to be able to fit #12 wire.
Good point. I don’t choose to use the push in connectors either at home or for small jobs to avoid potential future issues. However an electrician wiring an entire house will often use them for the 15 amp circuits for efficiency. They’re code compliant and can save a lot of time. But for installing one or only a few receptacles, or any circuits 20 amp or higher wrap the wire around the screws. And don’t be afraid to twist them tight.
@@MrSleepProductionsInc Yeh, because THAT takes less time than using the side screw.
dave miller Hey, I couldn’t believe it either! Only thing I could figure to make it financially feasible is if he had a bunch of kids drilling them out. I’m sure they drilled too far and damaged some of them. That may be why we were there repairing dead outlets. I don’t remember all the details now.
Push in holes can also cause overheating especially the grip type I've seen it many times the ones that tighten with the screw are better but using the screw post is best
The ones that tighten with the screw holes are in my opinion just as good as the side screw method provided the proper gauge wire is used for the back wire using the screws to tighten the wire as each half has a half circle cut out to fit the diameter of the wire so that the whole wire is gripped.
They can be used in many applications by nutting the run and pulling tails for each individual receptacle....I have found loads vary on the individual receptacle being used along the load and the home run receptacle is the one that fails every time!
for anyone new to this i would say this video offers some good tips. doing basic wiring is not that hard or frightening as long as no power is feeding into what you are working on.
... til ya flip the switch :)
Any body can buy an electrical book and wire something up. But in 6 months when your house burns down know that you didn’t follow the correct method which they don’t tell you in the book.
Y'all should see the way my house was wired when I moved in. Every breaker was 20amp, 14/2 wire for everything, 18 outlets on one circuit, never mind the the whole 3 bedroom house consisted of really two circuits. I circuit was the bedrooms and the bathroom and the other was the kitchen, dining room, and living room. Every outlet on the exterior walls had a lead coming down one side of the box from the attic and up the other side of the box back to the attic. Inside every one of these boxes the leads from the incoming and outgoing wires were soldered together with pig tails connected to the outlets. The house listed claimed the wiring had been upgraded, which I found was only from the weather head to the main panel. The power going to the detached garage was interior 14/2 stretched from eave to eave connected to two 20amp fuses....
Sweet jesus.
Sounds similar but worse than the house I just bought and going over right now
Omg sounds like my house. It had a 125amp service box with the main and two fuses to control each side of the house.
Very frustrating.
@ Brian… sounds like a nightmare. The one thing I want to point out is that pigtails to connect receptacles is actually the proper way, but not the solder joints. Of course if it’s the last receptacle in the circuit then a pigtail is not necessary. Nor supposed to rely on the receptacle/devise to complete a circuit.
Wow , I was coming to the comment section to ask if push-ins were really as good as screwed terminals ....
but thinking that because this video was posted like a year and a half ago , who knows " if " and or " when " I might get an answer ...
Holy Crap , did this just repost in the last few days ???? a shit load of comments in the last 24 hrs...
And YES , I got my answer Load and Clear .... Thanks
I wonder why the outlet and receptical manufactures still make them with the connectors in the back of them.
"Load and Clear".....unintentional electrician's pun?
@@troyholley3615 The newer devices only accept 14 awg wire. I don't know why they ever accepted 12 gauge wire anyway, considering only 15 amp devices have the stab lock holes. At least I have never seen them on 20 amp or spec. grade devices.
Actually, most outlets and switches have self holding slots for wires. Of course if you're using a larger gauge than specified use the screws. Another aspect to consider, do you have the proper outlet or switch for your application? They come in 15 and 20 amp sizes. Be sure that you have the right size.
You can use your tongue to test for electrical voltage.
Could I get video?
I lick my fingers one on the hot leg the other on the box. If you feel a tingle power is still on.
Make shure you put a puddle of water under your feet.
Cracks me up... We can get rid of so much use less people with that idea... 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Hands are enough pal
In some states and counties the back holes are not allowed. Please check with your local electrical inspector to clarify. Also of note; if the holes in back are used and your local/state code has rules against them and there is a fire, you home insurance can deny coverage because of improper wiring.
I have never backwired an outlet in my 23 adult years it's amateur .,just spend the 14 bucks on a pair of Klein strippers and use the holes to bend the wire,it'll get them right everytime.Great video
Its csa approved so my boss wanted me to do it, I said you can fire me, he never did.
@@donm2067 Not approved in my state or county.
@@mellowrebel4618 I wish, because after them spring jaws back off theres all sorts of problems.
@@donm2067 Don, I I'm sure the contractor has a I don't give a s*** attitude and it's not my problem after the contract is done.
As an electrician I've dealt with a lot of them.
It's not about quality work anymore it's about quantity work how much you can get done in a day and move on that's where the money's at attitude.
@@red2965 In canada it's really bad, 800k$ for a house I wouldnt trade half a bologna sandwich for.
Using the backstab method once the outlet has a good load on the circuit who's backstab types of connection usually work loose use the hook or clamp down when appropriate
I will never use the push in again. Caused enough loose connections that I called a licensed electrician.
M Detlef your a fucking idiot! Only a third grade education and sitting in moms basement behind a monitor and waiting for mommy to cook your dinner!
When I purchased the old house I am now living in I opened up all the switch and receptacles and inspected the way the wires were connected about half were done wrong. I corrected all then I went under the house because I noticed most of the wing came up from below. I opened up all the junction boxes and found and repaired several loose connections. All were in my opinion possible hazards.
I have 3 outlets that were improperly installed, this information will be very helpful.
This is a good video. Thank you.
I do not use the poke in connectors, as electricians recommended I not use them for safety reasons.
In a number of outlets with plug ins, or duplex receptacles, I have found that old, used receptacles were installed. These garage sale specials may have saved someone money, but they are a serious safety hazard. The electrical connection was so poor, that a vacuum cleaner plugged into one of these plug ins would not even turn on, neither would a floor lamp.
I usually install a higher priced industrial grade duplex receptacle which will last longer than the residential grade one.
If there is medical equipment in the home, it might be good to have an electrician install much more expensive medical grade receptacles, etc.
Good vid
Every single light switch that has stopped working in my house was wired with the push holes ( not the screws on the size ). Often times I found just moving it to the side screws fixed the problem .
DYIer here: I've never seen insulation under a screw. What I almost always see is an over-stripped wire, with an exposed conductor between the insulation and the screw, and often excess wire extending beyond the screw.
I have seen insulation under the screw but more common is way too much wire being stripped
Be sure the breakers are off before hitting that like button.
🤣🤣🤣
Yeah, the third unlabelled, unnumbered breaker on the left.
One never needs to be shocked! Being startled or surprised is okay, though.
And wear gloves!
@Jimmy Coe Sorry, I use a lap top on battery. lol
Anyone else think Paul here, looks like Bob (Erics dad) on "That 70's Show" ?
Stupid me, I meant 'Red', not Bob. Bob was Donna's dad.
Dunno, but he sound like Kermit the frog.
Thanks,you're right,I had to watch this twice,her does look like Red Foreman! Foots in asses!
Norm Hodgkinson we all knew who you meant soon as we seen him.
Most definitely lol
My life is finally complete, as I have gained the very knowledge I needed to be whole, thanks to this video.
If you feel you have gained enough knowledge by watching this video you will be shocked when the truth is revealed, peace and God Bless
Both of these methods work perfectly with extension cords, network cables, and audio cables. Personally the “over and under” method is my favorite.
I am shocked, shocked that there is improper wiring going on in this establishment !!
Sometimes the things we take for granted. This video is proof that we "know it alls" need to stop...listen, and take heed' then go back and fix those switches we installed. Even the punch in holes in the back of the switches...I never knew the screw still had to be tightened down although I never did rely on that method of wire attachment. THUMBS UP!
Using that Push Lock on a back of a receptacle, should be out a code violation! I have seen many that were lose and some that melted without drawing even 15 amps.
You can get ones that have an extra plate between the screw and body so you can get a good screw connection without having to make loops.
Those frequently work loose during install
@@carlspackler91 … not the ones the OP is describing. The OP is referring to the Back Wire Clamping receptacles. You have to tighten the screws down to push the plate tight against the wires. That’s all I ever buy. It’s still quick and easy but clamps tight. It’s easily reversible if necessary. And it works equally well on solid and stranded wire.
Who ever uses the holes in the back is a chump, but I thank you for all the service calls.
My house came with these stupid things. Can i simply replace with the other hook ones?
@@saint0004 yes. Make sure the box is grounded properly while you're in there.
@@MoonRambo702 I just get frustrated because houses are so damn expensive I Canada, and they're built by contractors that's couldn't build a sandwich, yet they do plumbing, HVAC, electrical
Lol
What's wrong with using the holes in the back?
Make sure the hot or black wire is on the gold receptacle and the silver on the white or neutral wire. Bare copper or sometimes green wire is for ground wire only.
Also remember the black wire attaches to the brass coloured screws and white wire to the silver screws, but YOU knew that!
That was the first thing that came to my mind watching this. Was going to say something but seen you already have. Electronics are polarized and this mistake could affect operations of your electronics.
I did not do that I was about to ask but I’m glad you mentioned it thanks @Chris Reinoehl
Oops!
A very good point. Thanks. I see folks putting a note not to work with electricity if you are not an electrician and for the most part agree. However we have now entered a phase where enough instructions and proper review will one day allow the ambitious to do nearly any of the trade jobs. Prepare for many changes and if they are handled well all of mankind can benefit. I is rarely smarter than us.
Good pointers for do it yourself people. I just replaced three receptacles which were all worn out. Followed your instructions. Thanks.
... depends on which "method" u chose ... 'side terminal' method (good to go) ... 'rear push-in' method - (best redo)
I don’t know how many of you use a plugin type outlet fault checker, for me it has been a very useful tool.
Those needle nose pliers are a work of art.
SuperVstech Their called round nose pliers 😊
Vert, very helpful! I just can’t believe how much time I have wasted doing it incorrectly! Thank you!
Clem Kadiddlehopper 👍😊
Any one else hear a mash up of Scotty Kilmer from his auto channel and Leah from See Jane Drill?
Just ribbing you mate. Thanks for sharing the info. I know some electricians get bent all out of shape when people share info online, but some people are going to have a go regardless. At the very least, giving them access to good information is important.
We don't have that style outlet here in OZ and it's mostly only stranded line. The message is universal though. A poorly made contact is a recipe for problems.
Hey MBA- that’s exactly what I heard right off the bat. It definitely sounds a lot like those 2. Especially Leah- she’s awesome and a great teacher. Peace!
@@neckbonz3152 I'm with you regarding Leah. Really switched on teacher. It's hard to show me something new but she manages to find a way.
love watching these " Handy Andy " videos
you are talking about the stab in outlets , I use the stab in with the screw that has to be tightened to hold it, they are fine, I have checked em many times
Those are clamps and are fine!
I have never encountered insulation being tightened under the screw! I HAVE seen too much exposed wire on switches and outlets, quite often.
I have seen insulation under the screw... it is not an issue if the screw is torqued down enough. Maybe older fabric insulation was different, but vinyl just smushed down to nothing if you use large flathead screwdriver. Much worse to have too much exposed wire if, for example, they get sloppy jamming wires back into the box with the tip of that large screwdriver and nick insulation that is close to the terminals.
The term is receptacle. An outlet can be where a receptacle is mounted or a ceiling fixture. Astrip gauge on a device is there if you choose to back wire, not for making loops on wires.
Can't tell you how many times I've found this issue following behind someone.
Seems to me USA is behind in electrical installations I mean in UK the terminals in a socket or switch are shrouded and a terminal capture type not that silly rape around crap. That went out 50 years ago there’s no chance of shorting the earth (ground USA) to the box or touching the terminals as you pull it out the box (unless the wire pulls out the terminal of course). Also manipulating the socket or switch can cause the wrap around connections to come off especially if there more than one wire. Also having bare earth (Ground) wires in the box is never a good idea in the UK we have to sleeve them with green-yellow sleeving. This would be another point for them exposed side terminals too short to the earth (ground) exposed bare wires.
Also, when wiring in a switch, you break the hot wire with the switch and not the white or ground side.
When I seen this video, i was totally expecting it being about switching the common, or outlet wires being switched.
@@Hathorr1067 I thought it might be about putting electrical tape over the screws before putting the switch or outlet back into the box.
I thought this would be about why you should only use the screw terminals and not to use the holes in the back because they cause lose connections and fires. Instead he's doing the opposite. This guy is giving bad advice.
@@johnnygogo7773 **His advice is good. Both methods work, both are UL Approved.**
The screw terminal was the original UL Approved method that was acceptable.
The holes have a metal tab that grabs the wire making a gas-tight connection.
Using the holes allows for faster work.
@@leef_me8112 your wrong i have had to fix hundreds of receptacles due to putting the wires into back of receptacles. what happens to metal when it get hot and cold why do you think the connection always comes loose. it sounds like your just a damn house wire i bet you dont even make pigtail joints on the hot and neutral wires before wiring the receptacles too.
By definition in the electrical code book the box in the wall for the plug is an outlet, the device that goes in the outlet is a receptacle, calling the receptacle an outlet is a huge problem because you may not get what you asked for because the box a light goes onto is also an outlet
Don’t use the rear push-in slots - ever! Also, don’t put two wires on each side of the receptacle - wirenut the two wires with a single pigtail and attach to the receptacle. Hot and neutral wires. (Correctly called the ungrounded and grounded conductors, respectively, in the NEC.) The video is correct with regards to wrapping the wire around the screw.
I’m about to begin my 44th year as an electrician, 34 years as a master - and I teach apprentices. Be safe - if you’re not sure, call someone.
I understand what your talking about, parallel vs series. The reciptical he has you will need two wires (at least on the hot side), the tab is broken connecting the screws.
QUOTING THE CODE 'No device shall be interdependent on any other device!!!"!!! Meaning PIGTAIL THAT SHITE!!!"
Mellow Rebel that’s funny. So how do you expect a gfci receptacle to be able to provide gfci protection to downstream receptacles if you pigtail off the line side?
It’s not against code to feed through a receptacle. Why do you think there is a feed-thru rating marked on the box the receptacle comes in? Also, on a gfci receptacle, you have to feed through the device to provide downstream gfci protection. It’s also not against code to use the stab in connectors.
Russell Brown - GFCI receptacles don’t have push in slots - you’re thinking of side clevis type terminals, which are fine.
direct and to the point thankyou for the lesson . also i always wondered what those round needle nose pliers are used for, now I know
WARNING: You need to check both outlets to make certain that you have turned off the right breaker or breakers. One could be wired through a switch that is turned off and the other could be still hot. If I can, I just turn off the main breaker.
Back wiring a receptacle doesn't give as much contact area as using the terminal and creates a possible overheating hazard when an inductive load is plugged in.
Yeah, keep using those stab in the back connections. They are one of my best moneymakers. They fail constantly. Fast for the installer, but a few years later they loosen up and cause intermittent connections or failure with heat. I just love it when I pull an outlet out and the stab in the back wire just comes off.
Yep. a good portion of my service calls are due too people using the stab in ports.
No! That strip gauge is NOT for making a Sheppard's hook to go around the screw! It is either for back-wiring or the dreaded push-ins (which should never be used)
The amount of wire needed to use the screw terminals is longer!!! Yours is visibly short. The wire should meet, giving you the most surface area and always be clockwise (the way the screw tightens)
Never stab the wires in, inrush can cause the wire to pop out! Always wrap the wire around the screw...don't be lazy!
Ive always stabbed my wires and never had any problems.
That’s the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard. A wire popping out because of inrush? Sorry, I don’t think a household blender is going to cause a wire to pop off its terminal. And if it does, it wasn’t terminated correctly.
@@RB-xv4si lighting circuits cause wires to jump...sorry these are really big words and might be out of your league! Keep stabbing wires lazy-ass, and we'll keep fixing your mistakes!! Wow and get out of the trade PLEASE!
Joker Seriously hmm. Man, you sure do know a lot about me. For one thing, I never said that I stabbed wires in. I personally prefer to wrap them around the terminal when possible, like most electricians. I am pointing out that it is code compliant to make a stab-in connection and I don’t hate on anyone that does code-compliant work. I have my journeyman’s license in DC and I know the code. That’s all I have to say about that. Have a nice day.
Agnus Dei I agree. And I do go above the code in many aspects of my work. But when I see people come unhinged because of a personally held belief, it shows a lack of maturity and a lack of experience in the field. Let me give you a relevant example; there are multiple types of stab in connections on receptacles. There is the type that relies on internal spring pressure to hold the wire in and I don’t prefer to use those (although, again it’s code compliant). Then there is the type that after you stab in, the terminal screws can be tightened and that screw pressure on the pressure plate actually keeps the wire in place, and I have no problem using those. It’s exactly the same concept as terminating a wire on a breaker. I don’t think most of the guys watching this video are aware of this. They just don’t have the experience, so when a licensed guy (or foreman) that they know and respect tells them “never ever stab in you’re connections”, they take it as gospel because they don’t know any better.
That guide in the back is quite clever. Never seen it before but such a handy and simple concept.
Good video but please include; You should have shown which side the hot wire attaches to and which side the neutral wires attaches to and which one the ground attaches to.
If you need to watch this to know, for the love of God, stay away from electrical work.
Amen Brother!
i was all pumped to learn a real trick...... after watching thing im questioning how humanity has survived this long.....
This is a sure fire test that you need to learn a certified electricians phone number....
The electrician is not born with the knowledge. We all started with the how to wire books. Young guys have to start some where. What kind of thinking is that "if you don't know dont even try".
😂😂 Right
Very clear simple instructions that many DIY homeowners get wrong
Never backstab. I lived in a house with non grounded receptacles and when I a went to replace them the wires fell right out of the back. Explains why half of them didn’t work. Lol
He's using cheap outlets in this video, there are better outlets that you can backstab but they use the compression of the terminal screw to terminate. These spring contacts will fail in time because they lose their grip on the conductors over time.
@@MrFriesz Yep. That is a whole 'nother animal and better than the terminal screw method, I think. Practically fool proof because you don't have to bend the wire.
Thanks! Now I know the RIGHT way !
Proves you're never too old... 👍🏻
Gotta a question, Paul. I have a ceiling fan (bronze, and cool looking) that we haven't used in maybe 5 years. Primarily for the wood burning stove to circulate heat. I turned the wall switch on and the fan blades did not rotate (probably from non use), but I heard some slight clicking, or snapping, ever so light sparking of some sort coming from the switch. The switch was installed in 1992. Little by little, I'd turn the switch on another day, and eventually by testing it over several days, it finally started to rotate on its own. Will the fact that the fan may have been stuck from non use cause the wall switch to click a little? It doesn't sound off anymore since the fan now rotates, but we still won't use it. Thanks for responding back Paul.
The switch needs to be replaced..
Replace that switch. Any switch with clicking, snapping, sparking like that is a fire hazard.
@@TheBibleSays One thing I could never figure out was this: Years ago when I first moved in the house, I recognized the switch needed to be replaced. Went to hardware store, bought a name brand switch, and with the same wiring format, I replaced the switch. It didn't WORK! Tried and tried...nothing. So I called an electrician to do it. He said it was due to the polarity. The polarity was the clue. So he replaced the switch in 1992. It rarely gets used unlike a light switch that goes on and off several times a day. What if I replace the switch on my own? Do I have to be concerned about polarity if I follow the same wiring diagram again?
@@lostinmyspace4910 If you replace the old switch with exactly the same new switch, and wire it exactly the same way (black, white and ground) it should work. If there's another, 2nd, switch on the wall that can control the same fan, you likely have 3-way switches involved - and an extra red wire - instead of a normal 2-way switch. In that case it really helps to understand how they work and how to wire them. In either case, you should make sure the house wiring is correct: all too often I've seen houses/apartments with the white wire as hot and the black as neutral. Carefully check with a voltage detector to make you know what's going on inside the wall box. Switching should be done on the "hot" black wire for normal 2-way switches. And be aware that if a switch loop is somehow involved the white wire may also be "hot." Confused? It really helps to have experience and know what you're doing. When in doubt, get help.
That sparking may have been a result of the fan being stalled. The sparking likely damaged the contacts inside the switch. Not a bad idea to replace it.
@@TheBibleSays Paul: Thank you for all your wonderful advise. I'm going to jump right on this, and get this safely completed. I hired an electrician back in '92, I may do just that again versus a potential house fire. Best of luck to all your videos. Man, do you have a wide array of videos out there. I have a wood burning stove that heats our home exclusively( 10-12 cords in winter) with a backup gas furnace when on vacation, and a few trucks for the business constantly checking for maintenance (thank you for your tips), we live on a well and draw ground water, and always checking under the frig for accumulated dust, fabric fibers in the lint catcher and outlet vent of the dryer, and I have learned to do my own maintenance on all my vehicles ( current Ford truck has 290,000 miles) and ONLY replaced the starter at 200,000. All components are original including muffler, tailpipe, cat. converter, alternator. !00% synthetic oil, Royal Purple from the beginning. I can afford a new truck, and my wife drives that. In my truck's lifetime, I want to see if I can reach 400,000 on the F 150, and thus earned honestly the bragging rights. Hail from Michigan!
I have been a UK electrician since early 90s, and the electical stuff we use now is made so well and safer. But watching this American stuff makes you wince in shock as it’s like going back to before I started. We used to use large type bacolite trips like those shown here. Then we upgraded those and added 30ma RCD safety breaker( this detects faults and trips power off) then later we combined Mcb (fuse) and RCD into one breaker of same sizecalled an RCBO which works better than a fuse and safety detection of faults i.e it trips faster than you can say ouch if you happen to electrocute your self. We use AC as it pushes you away but DC locks your muscles so you can’t move.
I was also told to never use the back plugin wires I was told sooner or later they fell .
Where did they fall?
Never use the back terminals that simply grab the wire.
The springy metal over time loses its springiness and will cause the outlet to heat up under high load and eventually fail and the damage depends on how hot the outlet got and for how long.
The outlets where the back terminals rely on the side screw being tightened to hold the wire are the best choice as they have the benefit of the back wire ease with the secure wiring attachment of the side screw.
The trailer I got maybe three years ago was made in 1996 and I checked the outlets. They were all back wire only so given my negative experience with back wire outlets throughout the years I promptly replaced every single one with the backwire where the side screw secures the wire in place.
Wise move!
Some inspectors will not approve the use of the push in hole connections. Personally I never use them.
Can you blame them? I sure can't: I made that mistake once, never again!
True dat. A friend finished his own basement, thought the backstabs were a miracle. Inspector made him change them all. Did him a favor even if it chafed him at the time.
An excellent explanation about how to do it correctly. Thanks
I wouldn't recommend using the holes at all - less reliable and harder to remove (kind of need three hands).
I would also recommend using electrical tape to cover the screws - just 1 strip around the entire socket/switch. It prevents anything from touching the screws when the power is on. Sometimes, the box is made of metal, sometimes there are lots of wires jammed in, sometimes you need to open it without turning off the power (when you paint the room for example).
I have NEVER seen a receptacle where the back-stabbed wire can be tightened by tightening the side screw. CAN ANYONE VERIFY THAT SUCH RECEPTACLES ARE MANUFACTURED, FOR ME PLEASE? I have done electrical contracting work for 55 years. If I missed this, shame on me. I have NEVER used the back-stab holes; ALWAYS used the side screws. Nearly every troubleshooting call I did involving switches and receptacles was due to back-stabbed wires. Consider this.... the round wire pushes under a flat spring-loaded copper contact, which results in nearly zero contact area (some receptacles have a rounded-notch contact area to receive the wire, but not much better). If all 4 holes are used for in-and-out wiring, then there are 4 such contacts per receptacle. If there are eight (8)receptacles on that circuit, then the last outlet in the last receptacle has its load running thru 8x4 = 32 such near-zero-area-contacts. If the hairdryer or Window AC unit is plugged in nearly anywhere on this circuit (especially near the far end), this stabbed stuff is certainly going to fail. NOTE: If a neutral connection goes bad in this "daisy chained" series type wiring, resulting in an "open" neutral in the circuit, then the 120 volts on the circuit thru any operating connected load will be present at every neutral connection in the circuit between the load and the open neutral joint. SO, several NEC Code cycles past, it became a requirement to splice the neutrals at every outlet device, and make the neutral connection to each device (receptacle) by using a single pigtail. That way, if the circuit ever comes "open" from a loose neutral at the device itself, the neutral circuit itself is still remain intact, and the 120 volts will not energize THAT loose neutral connection.
UPDATE for CLARIFICATION 080820: I HAVE seen receptacles that have a "hole in the back" where you put the wire in, AND THEN tighten a SIDE SCREW to secure it. Those are designed so that the side screw MUST be tightened to secure the wire. I have used those many times, and LIKE them. Those are a good product. BUT, those are not a back-"stabbed" wire, since they don't "stab in" under the spring loaded flat sheetmetal like a "true" stabin.
Great comment.
I'm 74 and have always done my own wiring and Haven't seen these either~!!!
@@RickaramaTrama-lc1ys , please see my just-added update for a clarification point.
I cannot unhear how much he sounds like Bob Odenkirk specifically from Mr Show.
In that case you better call Saul.
The pinching pushin style outlets and switches out to be outlawed. The amount of connection of wire to terminal is minuscule and relies on spring tension to maintain connection; one "hot" overload and tension fails. If one fails the outlets and switches being feed by it fail. Can be royal pain to find the failed outlet/switch in a run.
The pushin with screw tension is superior (same for the wrap around) in just the amount of wire to terminal connection; now add mechanical tensioning; the only reason you'll have to change it is when heavy use of constant pluging in and out wears the prongs out.
Especially in electrical, cheap ain't cheap in the long game; it can be deadly.
Summary : strip enough wire to make full contact with screw.
But not so much that you risk a short circuit.
Brilliant, Thank you Steven!!!
You guys are really funny even working on 110 volts
Bt over here in pakistan
We dont even care abt breaker is off or nt we directly work on 440 and 220 volts
Even without having gloves 😎😎
... possibly the reason why u guys blow each other up so much
This is the dumbest shit I've ever read