Thanks for the Support! I was really considering the 27 Tribute but the wait time was insane. I will admit I was a bit inpatient and pulled the trigger on the 23....it was still a 4 month wait I think; the 27 was about 7+ months. I think that will be the next project though when this 23 is all done and absued at the stop lights haha
I'm enjoying (and subscribed to) this series because after selling the RV-8 aircraft I built and sold, I'm thinking of a T-bucket for my next project. One distraction on this particular video is the cockroaches crawling around at around 2:10. Aside from that, build on! And thanks for sharing.
Haha welcome to Florida! Its Palmetto season-well it was- gotta love em. Sharp eye, and thanks for watching! Would have loved to see a build on that RV, bet it was a blast.
I really hope Speedway paid you a bunch of money for making this series!!! This alone should lead to a significant increase in sales of their kit. I'm seriously considering building it because of how thorough your videos have been. I've built a few cars and when I watch some of the videos out there, it hurts to watch people just skim over tons of work and tips. Great work brother! Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks for the support! LOL I wish they were, I think it's the other way around, me paying them! I did hear from a source there that they have been closely watching the build and feedback so that's cool.; Hopefully, they will sponsor a Tribute T "Wink Wink". EP5 and on should be a lot more in-depth as we are going to start entering that phase where I will be focusing on one part at a time, especially the paint and prep on the bucket, mounting, electrical etc! The best part will be to see if the thing even starts haha!
Just a thought on painting the bucket... I would suggest not doing a bed liner on the body. I did a custom tinted Raptor Liner last year on my Ford E-350 Super Duty van. It looks awesome because it's a big, burly vehicle. On a tiny thing like yours, I would just pick a wild flake paint job or something jewel-like to sit on top of that raw frame. It would contrast great! @@GearHeadzGarageUSA
I think what I may end up doing is I will do a rat satin black exterior and I will bed liner the interior side walls and floor but then I will lay carpet to keep the floor looking like sht. Still putting some ideas together but I see where your coming from. May line the bottom though, it's just raw treated wood down there and the seems where the bucket transitions to the wood
I recently finished a 73 Midget and did the whole pan, under the carpets, with color matched Raptor Liner. Super easy to use. Very hard, not like the rubbery stuff out there. Highly recommend their stuff. Easy to apply with no real overspray. Waterproof...Fairly cheap..@@GearHeadzGarageUSA
@@Smilesalot1023 I actually heard a lot of good things about the raptor liner and then the lizard skin where'd you pick up the raptor liner from? Its just a LPHV not HVLP?
Use machinists cutting oil when you use a tap and die set. It helps with the cut, it keeps the cutting edges clear of swarf and keeps the heat generated by the cutting friction much lower. And try not to use a power tool with a tap. They break real easy and a broken tap can turn a 2 minute job into a day long ordeal real fast. All the best for the build. Cheers from New Zealand.
Regarding the tie rod hitting the frame, I made a steel block spacer to fit between the front leaf spring and the frame. 3/4” thick x 1 3/4” x 4.5”. Your local steel supplier should be able to cut one to length for about $15. Drilled a half inch hole for that peg and made 1/2” threads for a bolt. Tested and no more rubbing!
Im curious, could you snap a picture and send that over? Id be curious to see what it looks like and maybe do a video on. Seems im not the only one. Check out the "about section" to send it over if you can.
Your fuel pump gasket isn't to keep creekwater out. It's to keep oil in. Yes, it's not pressurized, but that cavity will fill up with oil. As long as your gasketed area is smooth and fairly flat, you should be fine. Throw a GM seal tab into the radiator before initial startup and you'll never know the rear welch plugs aren't sealed. (in fact, one of those tabs is good insurance in every watercooled engine you own) The fuel pump clearance issues you're seeing is a common thing on T-bucket frames. That's why most of them have a low pressure electric pump. That's just the nature of the skinny frames. On your fuel outlet, a 90 at the tank and a 45 on the fuel line would probably make your flex connection a lot nicer. Those two points are so close, it's not difficult to end up with a full loop to hook the two together. AND if you decide to go with steel braided AN hose there, MAKE SURE to get carbon lined hose. That's the only hose that will avoid static discharge blowing pinholes in your fuel line.
Thanks for the input Earl, much appreciated. I will revisit that fuel pump, I was really surprised to see how close it was even after turning it. Never heard about the Rad tabs but will grab those before the initial run, I know with freeze plugs theres a lot of information on these and I have seen where people use a sealer and the block cracks etc and then they dont use it and they either leak or it wont. On the fuel line near the rear I did pull the hard line down but I still dont like how close it sits. Looking into a few different angles with that as I did leave some extra slack for some options there. Thanks again!
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA As a general rule I don't like 'rebuild in a bottle's.. But those GM seal tabs are pretty awesome. Much like a little shot of tire Slime, they make great preventative maintenance. Back when GM built that HORRIBLE Caddy 4100 V8, the aluminum/iron engine had internal leaks all over the place. They came up with those tabs to patch up a shitty engine. If you put one in a non-shitty engine, they will seal up a pinhole before you even know you have one. AND they don't do like normal sealers and clog up radiator flues, thermostats, and heater cores. I have one in ever single one of my cars. (especially the ones with those crappy plastic GM intake gaskets) Oh yeah, you're probably going to have to pull your 3rd member out of your axle to get the new yoke on correctly. I doubt whoever built it used a solid shim/spacer to set up. Odds are it has a crush washer in there to set the drag. When you swap yokes you'll need a new crush washer and you'll have to torque it until you get the correct bearing drag. Theoretically, the pinion gear will stay in the 'exact' same place when you reinstall the pinion support. But the only way to do a before/after backlash test, it to pull the whole pumpkin and measure what you start with (and make sure it was right to start with)
Thanks for the previews! Finished my Speedway T-bucket a month ago. Are you finding the tie rod is hitting the frame due to bumps in the road? At rest I have 3/4” of spacing but the bumps hit it. Setting the rod below the brackets won’t fit. I might have to try and bend both brackets. Ideas?
You know I'm really glad that you brought that up because I brought that up with them and they told me that they've never heard of that so either I assembled it wrong or it's actually truly a design flaw. Over although I've got about 10,000 MI on my frame and I haven't had any issues but that Rod does rub. Haven't figured a fix for that yet. I'm honestly glad I'm not the only one so I know I'm not going crazy. No ideas yet on how to fix it but it's something I'll be looking at here pretty soon. So far I've just kind of been living with it the only thing I noticed is just a few small scratches but it doesn't really cause any issues anywhere else.
Thanks for watching already working on EP5. Let me know your thoughts on the build also need some suggestions on a body color for the bucket. Still leaning toward a black flat right now
Coming along great. Think that 90 degree out of the fuel tank would work good. You should degreace pressure wash and paint the tranny to. Did you get the torque converter bolted to the flex plate? Just wondering since you didn't show it.
Your just going to have to wait til EP5 to find out! Just kidding, got it bolted up and just used 3 hardend spacers for the offset. Order some additional AN6 fittings so I can figure out what route I want to go. I ended up cutting a lot of scenes out during the editing process for viewer retention, I think for a 30 min video I ended up with almost 5 hours worth of video. I may juggle with that in EP5 and do a more in depth dive to get some feedback. As for the trans I did wash that sucker a few times and with some purple power but it's just ugly as hell and looks like it was driven through wet concrete....I guess that's what I get for 80$, now to see if it works.
Run the fuel line low on the frame? You can buy a frame mounted transmission cooler that would mount higher on the frame under the seat area and then run lines from the trany to the cooler and back. An alternative to running lines and cooler up to the radiator area
Yeah, I noticed a lot of people running their fuel line on the lower underside of the rail looking down at the pavement, could figure that one out thats why I went with the inner rail midway up as to not have it knocked but some road debris. I was planning on plugging the radiator trans cooler in/out and picked up a single in/out external "Heatsink style" cooler for the trans. hoping thats enough for the Florida heat. I saw some people around here looping their trans oil lines with no cooler at the car shows, seems risky!
Progress is a good thing. Looks good. I got my body back from paint earlier today.... already chipped it, go figure. Keep the updates coming. How far down in Florida are you.
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA it had the textured look up close and was a satin look when standing back a few feet. He did it in a black. I guess it's what kinda look your after and how you spray it on. When I get ready to paint mine I'm going to coat the bottom and inside the bed area with in just to act as a sealant and protection form the elements
I've been watching your series, I've always loved T-buckets, would like to build one but if I do I'll probably go with a '27.
Thanks for the Support! I was really considering the 27 Tribute but the wait time was insane. I will admit I was a bit inpatient and pulled the trigger on the 23....it was still a 4 month wait I think; the 27 was about 7+ months. I think that will be the next project though when this 23 is all done and absued at the stop lights haha
I'm enjoying (and subscribed to) this series because after selling the RV-8 aircraft I built and sold, I'm thinking of a T-bucket for my next project. One distraction on this particular video is the cockroaches crawling around at around 2:10. Aside from that, build on! And thanks for sharing.
Haha welcome to Florida! Its Palmetto season-well it was- gotta love em. Sharp eye, and thanks for watching! Would have loved to see a build on that RV, bet it was a blast.
I really hope Speedway paid you a bunch of money for making this series!!! This alone should lead to a significant increase in sales of their kit. I'm seriously considering building it because of how thorough your videos have been. I've built a few cars and when I watch some of the videos out there, it hurts to watch people just skim over tons of work and tips. Great work brother! Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks for the support! LOL I wish they were, I think it's the other way around, me paying them! I did hear from a source there that they have been closely watching the build and feedback so that's cool.; Hopefully, they will sponsor a Tribute T "Wink Wink".
EP5 and on should be a lot more in-depth as we are going to start entering that phase where I will be focusing on one part at a time, especially the paint and prep on the bucket, mounting, electrical etc! The best part will be to see if the thing even starts haha!
Just a thought on painting the bucket... I would suggest not doing a bed liner on the body. I did a custom tinted Raptor Liner last year on my Ford E-350 Super Duty van. It looks awesome because it's a big, burly vehicle. On a tiny thing like yours, I would just pick a wild flake paint job or something jewel-like to sit on top of that raw frame. It would contrast great! @@GearHeadzGarageUSA
I think what I may end up doing is I will do a rat satin black exterior and I will bed liner the interior side walls and floor but then I will lay carpet to keep the floor looking like sht. Still putting some ideas together but I see where your coming from. May line the bottom though, it's just raw treated wood down there and the seems where the bucket transitions to the wood
I recently finished a 73 Midget and did the whole pan, under the carpets, with color matched Raptor Liner. Super easy to use. Very hard, not like the rubbery stuff out there. Highly recommend their stuff. Easy to apply with no real overspray. Waterproof...Fairly cheap..@@GearHeadzGarageUSA
@@Smilesalot1023 I actually heard a lot of good things about the raptor liner and then the lizard skin where'd you pick up the raptor liner from? Its just a LPHV not HVLP?
Use machinists cutting oil when you use a tap and die set. It helps with the cut, it keeps the cutting edges clear of swarf and keeps the heat generated by the cutting friction much lower. And try not to use a power tool with a tap. They break real easy and a broken tap can turn a 2 minute job into a day long ordeal real fast. All the best for the build. Cheers from New Zealand.
Welcome from NZ! Yeah after about 3rd hole with that T Handle and your palm....that drill starts looking better and better.
Keep plugging away and the great work!!!
I havent run out of steam yet! But will need to start really considering the next steps on the body itself. The backorder stuff is killer.
Regarding the tie rod hitting the frame, I made a steel block spacer to fit between the front leaf spring and the frame. 3/4” thick x 1 3/4” x 4.5”. Your local steel supplier should be able to cut one to length for about $15. Drilled a half inch hole for that peg and made 1/2” threads for a bolt. Tested and no more rubbing!
Im curious, could you snap a picture and send that over? Id be curious to see what it looks like and maybe do a video on. Seems im not the only one. Check out the "about section" to send it over if you can.
You try countersink holes a bit before tapping
Thank God I'm done with them I think, but next time absolutely, getting them started has always been my trouble. I know people just use self tapping..
Your fuel pump gasket isn't to keep creekwater out. It's to keep oil in. Yes, it's not pressurized, but that cavity will fill up with oil. As long as your gasketed area is smooth and fairly flat, you should be fine.
Throw a GM seal tab into the radiator before initial startup and you'll never know the rear welch plugs aren't sealed. (in fact, one of those tabs is good insurance in every watercooled engine you own)
The fuel pump clearance issues you're seeing is a common thing on T-bucket frames. That's why most of them have a low pressure electric pump. That's just the nature of the skinny frames.
On your fuel outlet, a 90 at the tank and a 45 on the fuel line would probably make your flex connection a lot nicer. Those two points are so close, it's not difficult to end up with a full loop to hook the two together. AND if you decide to go with steel braided AN hose there, MAKE SURE to get carbon lined hose. That's the only hose that will avoid static discharge blowing pinholes in your fuel line.
Thanks for the input Earl, much appreciated. I will revisit that fuel pump, I was really surprised to see how close it was even after turning it. Never heard about the Rad tabs but will grab those before the initial run, I know with freeze plugs theres a lot of information on these and I have seen where people use a sealer and the block cracks etc and then they dont use it and they either leak or it wont.
On the fuel line near the rear I did pull the hard line down but I still dont like how close it sits. Looking into a few different angles with that as I did leave some extra slack for some options there. Thanks again!
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA As a general rule I don't like 'rebuild in a bottle's.. But those GM seal tabs are pretty awesome. Much like a little shot of tire Slime, they make great preventative maintenance.
Back when GM built that HORRIBLE Caddy 4100 V8, the aluminum/iron engine had internal leaks all over the place. They came up with those tabs to patch up a shitty engine. If you put one in a non-shitty engine, they will seal up a pinhole before you even know you have one. AND they don't do like normal sealers and clog up radiator flues, thermostats, and heater cores.
I have one in ever single one of my cars. (especially the ones with those crappy plastic GM intake gaskets)
Oh yeah, you're probably going to have to pull your 3rd member out of your axle to get the new yoke on correctly. I doubt whoever built it used a solid shim/spacer to set up. Odds are it has a crush washer in there to set the drag. When you swap yokes you'll need a new crush washer and you'll have to torque it until you get the correct bearing drag.
Theoretically, the pinion gear will stay in the 'exact' same place when you reinstall the pinion support. But the only way to do a before/after backlash test, it to pull the whole pumpkin and measure what you start with (and make sure it was right to start with)
Use high quality gun taps (2 flutes) and your drill to run the taps in. And don’t forget lots of cutting oil.
I need to get off the HF kick and get some food quality ones. Most I have are cheap disposables
Thanks for the previews! Finished my Speedway T-bucket a month ago. Are you finding the tie rod is hitting the frame due to bumps in the road? At rest I have 3/4” of spacing but the bumps hit it. Setting the rod below the brackets won’t fit. I might have to try and bend both brackets. Ideas?
You know I'm really glad that you brought that up because I brought that up with them and they told me that they've never heard of that so either I assembled it wrong or it's actually truly a design flaw. Over although I've got about 10,000 MI on my frame and I haven't had any issues but that Rod does rub. Haven't figured a fix for that yet.
I'm honestly glad I'm not the only one so I know I'm not going crazy.
No ideas yet on how to fix it but it's something I'll be looking at here pretty soon. So far I've just kind of been living with it the only thing I noticed is just a few small scratches but it doesn't really cause any issues anywhere else.
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA what is 10,000 Mi or ML?
@@rickchristensen3661 I have almost 10k miles on my frame. It's become my daily driver with tons of road trips 😁
Thanks for watching already working on EP5. Let me know your thoughts on the build also need some suggestions on a body color for the bucket. Still leaning toward a black flat right now
Ford Grabber Blue 💙🩵
@@ericworthington7299 maybe on the next one, went with HD Denim Matte Black
Coming along great. Think that 90 degree out of the fuel tank would work good. You should degreace pressure wash and paint the tranny to. Did you get the torque converter bolted to the flex plate? Just wondering since you didn't show it.
Your just going to have to wait til EP5 to find out! Just kidding, got it bolted up and just used 3 hardend spacers for the offset. Order some additional AN6 fittings so I can figure out what route I want to go. I ended up cutting a lot of scenes out during the editing process for viewer retention, I think for a 30 min video I ended up with almost 5 hours worth of video. I may juggle with that in EP5 and do a more in depth dive to get some feedback. As for the trans I did wash that sucker a few times and with some purple power but it's just ugly as hell and looks like it was driven through wet concrete....I guess that's what I get for 80$, now to see if it works.
Run the fuel line low on the frame? You can buy a frame mounted transmission cooler that would mount higher on the frame under the seat area and then run lines from the trany to the cooler and back. An alternative to running lines and cooler up to the radiator area
Yeah, I noticed a lot of people running their fuel line on the lower underside of the rail looking down at the pavement, could figure that one out thats why I went with the inner rail midway up as to not have it knocked but some road debris. I was planning on plugging the radiator trans cooler in/out and picked up a single in/out external "Heatsink style" cooler for the trans. hoping thats enough for the Florida heat. I saw some people around here looping their trans oil lines with no cooler at the car shows, seems risky!
Progress is a good thing. Looks good.
I got my body back from paint earlier today.... already chipped it, go figure.
Keep the updates coming.
How far down in Florida are you.
How did you chip it? Im down in Port Charlotte area.
@GearHeadzGarageUSA I flexed the very back of the body to much and it chipped...
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA0:04
Check out my #2 "T" build on F/B. You might like it.
Yes, Rhino line the outside...
i think if you rhino line the body find out that textured will be hard to clean without a pressure washer
Good point!!! I didn't even think about that! Damn...
Had a brother in law do a car with that. Used a lighter application and then painted it. The paint helped fill the surface some.
But did it turn it into that orange peal look after that or was it still pretty rigid?
@@GearHeadzGarageUSA it had the textured look up close and was a satin look when standing back a few feet. He did it in a black. I guess it's what kinda look your after and how you spray it on. When I get ready to paint mine I'm going to coat the bottom and inside the bed area with in just to act as a sealant and protection form the elements
Sorry it's under my name Rusty Mackey.
Is it under the profile