This thing is SO flipping cool Dan. Bring back memories of when I was a youngster. I'm Murs age and I know he can relate to the way things were on the street in the 70's. I'd go with a 3.42 gear and get the best of both worlds with a Muncie in front of them Keep the great content coming Dan and Danni
Really glad this exists. My dad just passed away and we were going to fix up his 68 Chevy Truck together. He stopped midway rebuilding the 350 SBC engine I think because he was waiting for me to move back to his city. I plan on finishing his work but Im starting all this knowledge from scratch.
This is truly to sbc we all build or want to build at home. Very realistic. And very viewable... Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge with us at home. Most of us aren't building an NHRA beast at home. Lol
You can get a 880 casting, L31 Vortec engine for $3-600 and save yourself the headache of retrofitting a roller. I've built several 383s from these blocks and they hold up well. The Vortec heads are the way to go (in my opinion) for a budget build and from the heads I've personally flow tested, the Vortecs will flow more than any other stock SBC iron head. The old fuelie heads are typically in rough shape nowadays, being 50+ years old and no hardened valve seats make them more trouble than they are usually worth. Unless it's a numbers matching rebuild, I always recommend a good used set of ported Vortec heads or if the budget allows, some AFR or Trickflow heads.
@@goldsgarage8236 I run Holley electric pumps with a bypass regulator. My Chevelle has had the same Holley blue pump for 13 years. I keep a spare pump in the trunk. I can change the pump in just a few mins
sweet build. This is the perfect range for a 355 cubic inch car to enjoy and drive daily with all the vacuum. That 3.73 gears and 4 speed are going to make the '70 monte's weight non issue. This is about as balanced as you can get in a 350 for this car. Great job. 10:1 compression in this is going to be a power maker no doubt. You can always richen a jet and timing 1 or 2 for in car also. 108* LSA is perfect for the cubic inch, head flow and valve size in this. Great choice, this cam is smart. Your throttle response is going to be snappy as all, and the car shall be reactive as well. i am can totally see and imagine this car and it's performance and daily drivability as being great.
You are thinking the way I do, most people use a camshaft with to wide LSA. Those heads don't have good cross flow and need overlap with small duration
@@oldsrocket8456 exactly why i am designed a hard footbox with mounts for an ultra high leverage brake system utilizing a long lever to the passenger side foot box with dual large piston manual master cylinders. High leverage = power brakes.
Thanks Medium. Don't worry I will be getting dirty. We will do this together. Mike and i will be making some video's of the build so please watch for it. AG
9.90-1 with an early closing ABDC 34° with iron heads, pump 93-94 octane is higher than recommended. The DCR is 8.762-1 Estimated cranking compression 197.75# 🤔 It’ll be interesting to see where the cranking compression ends up. The chambers might end up slightly larger than 64cc 🤔 The piston deck height should be .015”-.028” down in the cylinder. 🤔 Can’t wait, good content! JD
Thanks HeadFlow. I just cc'd every chamber and they are all right on 64cc. I calculate DCR using the advertised numbers not @.050". Also remember that there is always some compression loss via the rings, especially before they are broken in. We are looking expecting 160-170. We'll let you know. AG
Yeah, a little loss over the edge of piston and rings. A little loss there is good actually for a lot of reasons, would take a ton wrong to be excessive loss in a street engine. And some race engines are taking out middle rings and modding oil control rings to 'low tension the ring' because their cylinder pressures are so high and it costs less than buying low tension rings, well that and a ton of friction they get with all of the rings, then they vacuum crankcase evacuation pressure as well. That lets you spin upper rpm no doubt. And street engines are 'usually' below 7K rpm. lol. just a little help for anyone reading this.
This is very similar to the engine I’ve planned for my 1990 GMC Sierra. I am going aluminum heads because the stock heads are pretty terrible. Targeting 9.6:1 (or 9.8:1) with a single pattern Isky 264 (or 270) Mega on a 108 LSA. I’m looking forward to the dyno results.
@@zAvAvAz at the moment I’m on the fence between Brodix IK 180s with a good valve job and back cut valves or AFR Eliminator 180cc. Brodix heads will likely be less expensive after the work but not significantly so.
@@zAvAvAz. The throats on my heads were about 85%, (last guy that did the valve job opened them up from about 81%). I used a stone to open them to 87% intake, 88% exhaust. I noticed that the throats aren't concentric, are they supposed to be more relieved in some areas vs others? I pretty much kept the same proportions when opening them up. The long turn is most opened up vs the 2 sides and short turn.
@@NateDalton Well, i am like the ProMaXX project X215cc head. Out of all of the heads. Well and the freedom series 185cc that are not called the freedom series anymore. If was getting AFR would get the 180cc and then demand the CNC competition cut version of those. And try out those ISKY ez roller lifters. If getting eliminators get the 195cc.
I always put the heads on the block bare and scribe the cylinder to the bore, sometimes you can unshroud the edges of the chambers to match the bore, a couple more ponies for free
I have seen a guy hit 400 hp from used l31 with exhaust port work on the heads with beehive springs retainers and lt4 hot cam. I was thinking about going this route.
I'm using some cheap profiler clone alu heads on a vortec block with a Lunati 10120318 cam (I think lunati make great street cams) with a 9.7 compression and just under 8.5 dynamic which should allow me to run pump gas, probably even 87 during winter
It makes me feel bad for yous guys over there in Canada eh. Because the Chinese aftermarket aluminum heads they sell on eBay are good enough to support 500 HP. And they are dirt cheap, about $500 to $600, cams cost less over here and everything is easier to get. For $2,500 on this side you can get almost 500 HP. The above mentioned heads, a 383 stroker crank about $200 shipped, Speedmaster forged rods about $165 plus $85: for good bolts, about $200 for bearings, about $350 for pistons, about $65 for rings, around $100 for a external balancer, around $200 for a genuine imitation RPM Airgap, around $75 for a decent timing set and about $350 for cam and lifters, this is around $2,350 so far add a gasket set and there you go 400 to 500 HP depending on what cam is picked for $2,500. Of course like everything else there are a few odds and ends that may be needed plus the proper fluids with all the vitamins and minerals for a flat tappet. Will need a carb if you don't have one, a flex plate or flywheel for whatever transmission that will be used and so on...
Those are all good points. I did look at using the eBay heads and installing good hardware but I really wanted to keep this project vintage and use what we have. We are using those Speedmaster forged rods you mentioned. We could definitely make more power with the eBay aluminum heads or even a cheap set of Floteks but that will likely be in a future video. I should mention, the budget is $1700 before dyno costs and 15% contingency.
@@mkimble21 Make sure to get at least a set of ARP 8740 placement bolts for those rods if they didn't come with ARP bolts. There are hundreds of horror stories on the interwebs about using the Chinese bolts that come with those rods. Those Chinese bolts have cut threads, ARP bolts have rolled threads that are much stronger. Plenty of info and video of the difference between the two processes on the interwebs if you're not familiar? And if you do a eBay aluminum head swap in this series later on with the cheap eBay heads just make sure to use the "Self Wicking Green Loctite" on the hardened seats to make sure they don't fall out. Those are installed in China and some of them might not be in there as tight as they should be. Drip the mentioned Loctite on the perimeter of the seats with the valves removed and let dry for at least 24 hours before doing any other work to the heads. After that they're good to go.
No restrictions. I expect about 17 inches of vacuum. It should run fine on Shell 91. We will rev it until it stops making power, probably about 52-5400RPM.
@@goldsgarage8236 EPS likes peak torque below the typical 3800-4400+ rpm for a 355 c.i. also, so flattens out slightly, and makes a big chunk of torque, and makes better hp than regular performer also. i bet it shall be 400tq all the way across.
Thanks shooter, that was Mike's first attempt at porting heads. He had a good teacher in our friend Austin Ward. We will see what happens when we get to the dyno in a few weeks. AG
You left a lot out of the list.There is no machine work listed Valve Guides / Vales Grind seats/no bore and hone Hot/tank /cam bearings / soft plugs/hang and align pistons/ no decking the block/ maybe line hone mains/ and more like balancing rotating assy and more?
We will not be doing any machine work on this build, so there is no allowance in the budget. This premise for this build assumes you are starting with a good block and rotating assembly in fair condition, which we are.
Ok I got my answers on the second video, you reused the forged flat top pistons, and he talked about the 64cc chambers, thanks guys good show for me ,I use to race stock car, and street rod now I'm building 350s with my son.thanks again guys your shows refresh my memory.
Thanks for the question Wayne. The fact that it is bored .040" is not a factor. Let's see how it does this Saturday on the dyno. That said, it is a good fit for Mike's 350. There are some videos on my channel about cam selection. Please check them out and let me know if you have any questions. AG
Thanks Gentilejosh, These were Speedmaster heads, 64cc, 2.02" intake valves. I don't have flow numbers, but I did measure the intake runner, just over 200cc. Hope this helps AG.
Is there any way that I can have a decent running 350 engine on the street, with a TBI System? I have a 1991 Chevy Truck. I want about 300-325 Horsepower.
Should be a good build ... If that head flow is at camshaft valve lift you should make you goal .... I'm personally not a big fan of David's formula ... It's is based on statistical analysis from lots of Dyno runs and is set up for gen 1 sbc but tends to be on the race side because he likes peak power ... The 108 centerline is ok but I would have probably chosen a 112 lobe center with 4 advance to move some exhaust out of overlap and helped just off idle response because it is a driver .... Being a manual will help ..you did not say rear gear .... I'm assuming a dual plane intake ... Small dia z28 type spring... good 650 carb
With 1.6 rocker arm lift will be .481/.483 which is right where we have 230cfm. Low lift flow at .200/.300 is also very good. For drivability, I reduced the duration. I like the 108 for the cubic inch. I did mention I would likely go with a 3.73. The intake is a dual plane Edelbrock EPS, valve springs are Howard’s 98214 115 seat and 300 open. We will try a 650 and 750 on the dyno. The application, a 1970 Monte Carlo, are what we are working to compliment on this build, slight improvements on the factory 300hp 350 . A bigger camshaft would’ve been nice but I don’t want to sacrifice any street manners. Thanks for the comment Scott, watch for future videos where we will assemble and dyno test.
@@mkimble21 Dyno doesn't care about if it's 650 of 750 cfm ... You can way over carb on the Dyno and make the same curve ...it is really about how nice it will drive without giving up peak power
@@mkimble21 When you got up near10:1 with a notch down on cam, and a notch up on heads, in a heavier car, you'll be better drivable. That is exactly what this combo is. a 5500 rpm small block Combos like this can use the 750cfm in the car some times. When V.E. is down from race engine V.E. actuaL in car cfm requirements go up. Many 260H cam in 355 ci. combos with well below 10:1 driving around with 750 carbs instead of 650 or 500 cfm'rs. We shall have to wait and see what Allen and the rest of gold's garage decide on what to use or what the monte likes better.
I am re-ringing a 350 that has been bored 40 over. I ordered rings for a 40 over block. The bores measure 4.0415. The rings came in, and already they have a .025 to .027 end gap. Is this acceptable? This is naturally aspirated for street only.
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank You again. I checked on of the original rings to the engine. The gap was over .050, so I guess I'm better than that. And yes, I really do know how to use feeler gauges :)
No! 4 bolt blocks were first made in 1969. Prior to that people were racing 2 bolt block engines in blown dragsters making well over 600HP. A 2 bolt block is fine for a street engine. Thanks for the question Wayne. AG
i had tim’s automotive machine out of bloomer wi build me a midwest mod race engine for about $11,800 2 barrel EQ heads ….. it pulls 378 HP and 436 lbs of tq no way you can get that kinda power numbers for $2,000
Thanks for your comment Logan, to note, there is no labor content in this price and we did fall a little short of the 375HP. Please watch the dyno vide for more details and actual results. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 i’ll check it out sorry for the early comment without watching it all lol …. i’ll do my due diligence next time and watch all way through
Had a guy say that he has a 355 chevy I told him so you bored it .10 iver and he said no .30 over . From my under standing 350 .10 over is 355 and .30 over is 377 and .60 over is 383 right ?
Thanks Jimmy. A 355 is .030" over 350, a 383 is a 350 .030" over with a 400 crank which is 3.75" compared to a stock crankshaft which is 3.48" A 377 is the other way around, a 400 engine bore and 350 crank. Hope this helps. AG
Thanks for your question Victor. We used the original OEM forged flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs. We did replace one with a hair line crack on the skirt. AG
This thing is SO flipping cool Dan. Bring back memories of when I was a youngster. I'm Murs age and I know he can relate to the way things were on the street in the 70's.
I'd go with a 3.42 gear and get the best of both worlds with a Muncie in front of them
Keep the great content coming Dan and Danni
Thank you Dan and Danni. Very nice compliment, glad you enjoyed it.AG
Really glad this exists. My dad just passed away and we were going to fix up his 68 Chevy Truck together. He stopped midway rebuilding the 350 SBC engine I think because he was waiting for me to move back to his city.
I plan on finishing his work but Im starting all this knowledge from scratch.
Thanks for the comment Michael. We are very sorry to hear about losing your dad. His memory will make fixing his truck more meaningful.. AG
Good luck man
This is truly to sbc we all build or want to build at home. Very realistic. And very viewable... Thanks for sharing your thoughts and knowledge with us at home. Most of us aren't building an NHRA beast at home. Lol
thanks Brandon, good to hear from you. I hope you enjoy the next in this series of videos. AG
You can get a 880 casting, L31 Vortec engine for $3-600 and save yourself the headache of retrofitting a roller. I've built several 383s from these blocks and they hold up well. The Vortec heads are the way to go (in my opinion) for a budget build and from the heads I've personally flow tested, the Vortecs will flow more than any other stock SBC iron head. The old fuelie heads are typically in rough shape nowadays, being 50+ years old and no hardened valve seats make them more trouble than they are usually worth. Unless it's a numbers matching rebuild, I always recommend a good used set of ported Vortec heads or if the budget allows, some AFR or Trickflow heads.
Thanks Brad. An 880 block would be my first pick too, but hard to find them with a mechanical fuel pump set up in the casting. AG
I have a ‘98 l31 any cam suggestions? I know my heads max out their flow at 500 lift roughly 906 heads 880 block in a ‘77 GMC k15 daily driver
@@goldsgarage8236 I run Holley electric pumps with a bypass regulator. My Chevelle has had the same Holley blue pump for 13 years. I keep a spare pump in the trunk. I can change the pump in just a few mins
Thank You this is style of engine I prefer to build. I’m looking forward to seeing how close you get to the horsepower and torque range.
Thanks STP, so are we. Look for the next video on this subject. AG
If you're following David Vizard's guidelines then you are well on your way to one outstanding street engine!
Thanks Robert, we are looking forward to it. Watch for part 2. AG
Vizard the Wizard
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I LOVE BUDGET BUILDS. GREAT VIDEO AND THANKS FOR SHARING. I LEARNED SO MUCH.
Thanks John, more to come. AG
sweet build. This is the perfect range for a 355 cubic inch car to enjoy and drive daily with all the vacuum. That 3.73 gears and 4 speed are going to make the '70 monte's weight non issue. This is about as balanced as you can get in a 350 for this car. Great job. 10:1 compression in this is going to be a power maker no doubt. You can always richen a jet and timing 1 or 2 for in car also. 108* LSA is perfect for the cubic inch, head flow and valve size in this.
Great choice, this cam is smart. Your throttle response is going to be snappy as all, and the car shall be reactive as well. i am can totally see and imagine this car and it's performance and daily drivability as being great.
Thanks for your support dennis. Look for future video as we take you through the process. AG
You are thinking the way I do, most people use a camshaft with to wide LSA. Those heads don't have good cross flow and need overlap with small duration
112 Lsa is more streetable once u get into the 110s n lower u lose vaccume = breaks
@@oldsrocket8456 exactly why i am designed a hard footbox with mounts for an ultra high leverage brake system utilizing a long lever to the passenger side foot box with dual large piston manual master cylinders. High leverage = power brakes.
I knew by the boots alone this video would be 10/10 👍🏾🫡
Well LV, I never expected a comment on my boots, but since it is a complement I will take it. Thanks. AG
Sounds like a gr8 build. The cam should have a gr8 idle and perform well 👍
We want to see Mr Gold get his hands dirty as well 😂👍😎
Thanks Medium. Don't worry I will be getting dirty. We will do this together. Mike and i will be making some video's of the build so please watch for it. AG
9.90-1 with an early closing ABDC 34° with iron heads, pump 93-94 octane is higher than recommended. The DCR is 8.762-1
Estimated cranking compression 197.75# 🤔
It’ll be interesting to see where the cranking compression ends up.
The chambers might end up slightly larger than 64cc 🤔
The piston deck height should be .015”-.028” down in the cylinder. 🤔
Can’t wait, good content! JD
Thanks HeadFlow. I just cc'd every chamber and they are all right on 64cc. I calculate DCR using the advertised numbers not @.050". Also remember that there is always some compression loss via the rings, especially before they are broken in. We are looking expecting 160-170. We'll let you know. AG
Yeah, a little loss over the edge of piston and rings. A little loss there is good actually for a lot of reasons, would take a ton wrong to be excessive loss in a street engine. And some race engines are taking out middle rings and modding oil control rings to 'low tension the ring' because their cylinder pressures are so high and it costs less than buying low tension rings, well that and a ton of friction they get with all of the rings, then they vacuum crankcase evacuation pressure as well. That lets you spin upper rpm no doubt. And street engines are 'usually' below 7K rpm. lol. just a little help for anyone reading this.
This is very similar to the engine I’ve planned for my 1990 GMC Sierra. I am going aluminum heads because the stock heads are pretty terrible. Targeting 9.6:1 (or 9.8:1) with a single pattern Isky 264 (or 270) Mega on a 108 LSA. I’m looking forward to the dyno results.
Thanks Nate and good luck with your build. AG
Get the throat of valve seat effective and you shall be gold with 108* LSA in a 350.
@@zAvAvAz at the moment I’m on the fence between Brodix IK 180s with a good valve job and back cut valves or AFR Eliminator 180cc. Brodix heads will likely be less expensive after the work but not significantly so.
@@zAvAvAz. The throats on my heads were about 85%, (last guy that did the valve job opened them up from about 81%). I used a stone to open them to 87% intake, 88% exhaust. I noticed that the throats aren't concentric, are they supposed to be more relieved in some areas vs others? I pretty much kept the same proportions when opening them up. The long turn is most opened up vs the 2 sides and short turn.
@@NateDalton Well, i am like the ProMaXX project X215cc head. Out of all of the heads. Well and the freedom series 185cc that are not called the freedom series anymore. If was getting AFR would get the 180cc and then demand the CNC competition cut version of those. And try out those ISKY ez roller lifters. If getting eliminators get the 195cc.
Congratulations Mr Al!🙋🏿♂️
Thank you John. AG
Great video Allan
Thanks Paul, watch for part 2
I always put the heads on the block bare and scribe the cylinder to the bore, sometimes you can unshroud the edges of the chambers to match the bore, a couple more ponies for free
Thanks for the suggestion David. I have never though about doing that. AG
I considered that, it probably would’ve brought the compression down a couple tenths as well.
I just use the gasget. Great idea.
I’m all in on this!!! Subscribed!!
Thanks for subscribing Dave. More content to come. AG
Great channel
Thanks you Quenton, more content to come. AG
Plese test a 32V conversion kit for small blocks
I have seen a guy hit 400 hp from used l31 with exhaust port work on the heads with beehive springs retainers and lt4 hot cam. I was thinking about going this route.
Thanks for the comment. Check out Cutters performance channel, he does a lot of work with Vortec heads and makes good power. AG
When I hear him say David Vizard I subscribed quickly
Thanks! AG
I'm using some cheap profiler clone alu heads on a vortec block with a Lunati 10120318 cam (I think lunati make great street cams) with a 9.7 compression and just under 8.5 dynamic which should allow me to run pump gas, probably even 87 during winter
Nice combination of parts and perfect CR. Good job planning your build. AG
It makes me feel bad for yous guys over there in Canada eh. Because the Chinese aftermarket aluminum heads they sell on eBay are good enough to support 500 HP. And they are dirt cheap, about $500 to $600, cams cost less over here and everything is easier to get.
For $2,500 on this side you can get almost 500 HP. The above mentioned heads, a 383 stroker crank about $200 shipped, Speedmaster forged rods about $165 plus $85: for good bolts, about $200 for bearings, about $350 for pistons, about $65 for rings, around $100 for a external balancer, around $200 for a genuine imitation RPM Airgap, around $75 for a decent timing set and about $350 for cam and lifters, this is around $2,350 so far add a gasket set and there you go 400 to 500 HP depending on what cam is picked for $2,500.
Of course like everything else there are a few odds and ends that may be needed plus the proper fluids with all the vitamins and minerals for a flat tappet. Will need a carb if you don't have one, a flex plate or flywheel for whatever transmission that will be used and so on...
Those are all good points. I did look at using the eBay heads and installing good hardware but I really wanted to keep this project vintage and use what we have. We are using those Speedmaster forged rods you mentioned. We could definitely make more power with the eBay aluminum heads or even a cheap set of Floteks but that will likely be in a future video.
I should mention, the budget is $1700 before dyno costs and 15% contingency.
@@mkimble21
Make sure to get at least a set of ARP 8740 placement bolts for those rods if they didn't come with ARP bolts. There are hundreds of horror stories on the interwebs about using the Chinese bolts that come with those rods.
Those Chinese bolts have cut threads, ARP bolts have rolled threads that are much stronger. Plenty of info and video of the difference between the two processes on the interwebs if you're not familiar?
And if you do a eBay aluminum head swap in this series later on with the cheap eBay heads just make sure to use the "Self Wicking Green Loctite" on the hardened seats to make sure they don't fall out. Those are installed in China and some of them might not be in there as tight as they should be. Drip the mentioned Loctite on the perimeter of the seats with the valves removed and let dry for at least 24 hours before doing any other work to the heads. After that they're good to go.
The rods have ARP bolts. AG
@@goldsgarage8236
Good choice.
Im in Georgia and we have 93 octane and a 9.5 to 1 up to 10.1 will run with iron heads on pump gas.
Thanks Travis, we will take a compression test after the build. That will determine how much octane we will need. AG
Are there any restrictions in Manifold vacuum, fuel grade ⛽️ or Rpm range?
No restrictions. I expect about 17 inches of vacuum. It should run fine on Shell 91. We will rev it until it stops making power, probably about 52-5400RPM.
@@goldsgarage8236 EPS likes peak torque below the typical 3800-4400+ rpm for a 355 c.i. also, so flattens out slightly, and makes a big chunk of torque, and makes better hp than regular performer also. i bet it shall be 400tq all the way across.
proove to the world what ported camel hump heads can do, and do it without cracking or running ugly ass centerbolt valve covers 💪🏻
Thanks shooter, that was Mike's first attempt at porting heads. He had a good teacher in our friend Austin Ward. We will see what happens when we get to the dyno in a few weeks. AG
what distributer did you use? on your installation it looked to be new.
Thanks for the question Greg. I use a Bravex HEI 65,000V distributor from Amazon. I have used many of them with good results. AG
I am guilty of the ‘Learning how to build an engine from YT’. I’m looking to find a new mental mountain to climb.
Thanks Frank. Please keep watching and i will keep making videos.AG
@@goldsgarage8236 yes sir! I have a note pad dedicated to rebuilding.
Depending on what part of the US, the machine shops charge different prices.
That makes sense, thanks for the info Travis. AG
You left a lot out of the list.There is no machine work listed Valve Guides / Vales Grind seats/no bore and hone Hot/tank /cam bearings / soft plugs/hang and align pistons/ no decking the block/ maybe line hone mains/ and more like balancing rotating assy and more?
We will not be doing any machine work on this build, so there is no allowance in the budget. This premise for this build assumes you are starting with a good block and rotating assembly in fair condition, which we are.
@@mkimble21Kind of an overhaul-build then. 👍
Ok I'm wondering what type of pistons your using, and how many cc your cylinder head chambers are.
Mike, can you reply to terry please? AG
Ok I got my answers on the second video, you reused the forged flat top pistons, and he talked about the 64cc chambers, thanks guys good show for me ,I use to race stock car, and street rod now I'm building 350s with my son.thanks again guys your shows refresh my memory.
Good to hear Terry Thanks. Mike had the cc volume of the pistons. AG
Would you recommend this cam for a block bored 40 over?
Thanks for the question Wayne. The fact that it is bored .040" is not a factor. Let's see how it does this Saturday on the dyno.
That said, it is a good fit for Mike's 350. There are some videos on my channel about cam selection. Please check them out and let me know if you have any questions. AG
Hello,
What heads did you run on 400 with adjustable cam timing?
Thanks
Thanks Gentilejosh, These were Speedmaster heads, 64cc, 2.02" intake valves. I don't have flow numbers, but I did measure the intake runner, just over 200cc. Hope this helps AG.
Is there any way that I can have a decent running 350 engine on the street, with a TBI System? I have a 1991 Chevy Truck. I want about 300-325 Horsepower.
Sure you can. A little more compression and cam timing should get you there safely. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank you Sir 🙋🏿♂️
So I guess I should refresh the Engine, change the Cam and Heads?
Should be a good build ... If that head flow is at camshaft valve lift you should make you goal .... I'm personally not a big fan of David's formula ... It's is based on statistical analysis from lots of Dyno runs and is set up for gen 1 sbc but tends to be on the race side because he likes peak power ... The 108 centerline is ok but I would have probably chosen a 112 lobe center with 4 advance to move some exhaust out of overlap and helped just off idle response because it is a driver .... Being a manual will help ..you did not say rear gear .... I'm assuming a dual plane intake ... Small dia z28 type spring... good 650 carb
With 1.6 rocker arm lift will be .481/.483 which is right where we have 230cfm. Low lift flow at .200/.300 is also very good. For drivability, I reduced the duration. I like the 108 for the cubic inch. I did mention I would likely go with a 3.73. The intake is a dual plane Edelbrock EPS, valve springs are Howard’s 98214 115 seat and 300 open. We will try a 650 and 750 on the dyno.
The application, a 1970 Monte Carlo, are what we are working to compliment on this build, slight improvements on the factory 300hp 350 . A bigger camshaft would’ve been nice but I don’t want to sacrifice any street manners. Thanks for the comment Scott, watch for future videos where we will assemble and dyno test.
@@mkimble21 Dyno doesn't care about if it's 650 of 750 cfm ... You can way over carb on the Dyno and make the same curve ...it is really about how nice it will drive without giving up peak power
3.73:01 rear axle housing gear.
@@mkimble21 When you got up near10:1 with a notch down on cam, and a notch up on heads, in a heavier car, you'll be better drivable. That is exactly what this combo is. a 5500 rpm small block Combos like this can use the 750cfm in the car some times. When V.E. is down from race engine V.E. actuaL in car cfm requirements go up. Many 260H cam in 355 ci. combos with well below 10:1 driving around with 750 carbs instead of 650 or 500 cfm'rs. We shall have to wait and see what Allen and the rest of gold's garage decide on what to use or what the monte likes better.
Put a link to the budget list in the description please
Thanks Bok, Mike will do that in future videos after he reconciles the budget. AG
I am re-ringing a 350 that has been bored 40 over. I ordered rings for a 40 over block. The bores measure 4.0415. The rings came in, and already they have a .025 to .027 end gap. Is this acceptable? This is naturally aspirated for street only.
Absolutely acceptable. Run it and don't worry about it. you will never notice the difference. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank Yolu
Just an additional point Wayne, a little more end gap is better than not enough. Insufficient end gap can destroy your engine. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank You again. I checked on of the original rings to the engine. The gap was over .050, so I guess I'm better than that. And yes, I really do know how to use feeler gauges :)
Is it important to have a 4 bolt block for this build?:
No! 4 bolt blocks were first made in 1969. Prior to that people were racing 2 bolt block engines in blown dragsters making well over 600HP. A 2 bolt block is fine for a street engine. Thanks for the question Wayne. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 Thank You
I've never had a problem with 2 bolt. I'm 58. Raced dirt track. Street racing. Even now my old 4x4 has a 2 bolt main. Aluminum heads. Roller.
i had tim’s automotive machine out of bloomer wi build me a midwest mod race engine for about $11,800 2 barrel EQ heads ….. it pulls 378 HP and 436 lbs of tq no way you can get that kinda power numbers for $2,000
Thanks for your comment Logan, to note, there is no labor content in this price and we did fall a little short of the 375HP. Please watch the dyno vide for more details and actual results. AG
@@goldsgarage8236 i’ll check it out sorry for the early comment without watching it all lol …. i’ll do my due diligence next time and watch all way through
Had a guy say that he has a 355 chevy
I told him so you bored it .10 iver and he said no .30 over . From my under
standing 350 .10 over is 355 and .30 over is 377 and .60 over is 383 right ?
Thanks Jimmy. A 355 is .030" over 350, a 383 is a 350 .030" over with a 400 crank which is 3.75" compared to a stock crankshaft which is 3.48"
A 377 is the other way around, a 400 engine bore and 350 crank.
Hope this helps.
AG
what pistons?
Thanks for your question Victor.
We used the original OEM forged flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs. We did replace one with a hair line crack on the skirt. AG
Cattledog garage
Let me guess, your an engineer.
Thanks poppy. Not quite. I have a diploma in mechanical engineering technology. AG
The man hands and butts and talks too much