FYI...Toyota manual says use a flat block of wood that covers the entire diameter of the gasket ID, when hammering the flange gasket in place. The unspoken idea is that it needs some "oomph" to seat...and if you use a large flat piece of wood, you don't knick small areas of the flange gasket that can leak, like when using a metal tool that hits on smaller areas alone...as in this vid....it doesn't take much. I've seen gaskets where a scratch on the rounded surface of the gasket caused an exhaust "whistle" that was hard to trace. Also.....the springs were not meant to be in full-compression. The idea is to have the coils not touch each other...such that this connection ( notice the gasket surface has a "Rounded" edge), can slightly "rotate" one piece to another. Oops...just saw you made that same comment. In any case, its also to allow a small degree of "rotation"...not just "elongation"..... along the long axis.
@@manabouthome ...no problem...well done prsentation.....and think how much harder it would be for us many DIY guys who look for parts like this and have no real idea where else to look?..... excellent !!! .....
Thank you. Grandma just had to replace a stolen catalytic converter…didnt know if i had to tear the old flange off Also liked you talking about tight to tighten the spring bolts. I will know what to do when the next one gets stolen..
Ridiculous in this day and age, OEM parts still include the planned degradation of stamped flanges...keeps the dealerships bzy I guess. Great job on the repair. Im currently researching for a 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport flange repair. After primary pipe flange that joins the muffler flange. That or buy a whole new muffler plus parts and labor...$600.00!!!!
Thank you! I usually check Rock Auto, Ebay, and Amazon first. Then expand my search if needed. My stainless steel exhaust video... cat back exhaust system was from Ebay. Yeah, prices are ridiculous. Good luck with your parts search!
Ok. Yep, that's one reason they're there. Did you hear what I said about that? Probably missed that part. The fact of the matter is, I've done it this way for 50 years, and it doesn't make any difference. Thanks for watching.
@@ureviews Thank you! You weren't wrong. That's what it's for, as well as allowing the engine to breath if the exhaust pipe is plugged. I just know it doesn't make much difference, since I've always tightened them down. By the way, I used a spring bolt set I had on hand. They aren't the exact Subaru part for the application. So maybe there's a difference there. Thank you for watching and commenting.
If you bottom out the springs I.E. coil bind the springs, you are taking out all the articulation from the exhaust, this puts a lot of stress on the exhaust flange.
Yeah, I mentioned that in the video. That shiny new flange replacement in the video was done 6 years ago. It had to be done to replace the original Subaru factory exhaust system because it rusted away. Not because of spring bind in the Subaru factory installation. That replacement flange is now heavily rusted but it's still solid and going strong. The original replacement with the springs cranked down has never been a problem and never will be. There's still plenty of movement in that joint. Thank you for watching!
I am not sure a hammer would have been a better tool than the handle of the socket wrench. This is because the handle spreads impact more evenly against the donut gasket, and pressure of the impact is less important than an even pressure.
4:33 I don't think that the springs are there for exhaust pressure relief but rather to set proper compression on the seal and allow some movement across the joint due to vehicle, engine and exhaust differential movement. This is why the bolts in complete bolt/spring/nut kits from Walker and the like have shoulders on them so they can be tightened down snug to prevent loosening but at the same time the springs allow proper seal compression.
The Dorman part (DORMAN 03114) for the Subaru, is described as "exhaust manifold bolt and spring kit". It's easy to find parts and what they're called on rockauto.com. Thanks for watching and good luck!
It was easy on this one. I could squeeze the spring enough to get the bolt on. Maybe try squeezing the spring with a water pump pliers. Like Channel Lock. Thanks for watching.
@Man About Home Good day sir, I used a grinding wheel to seperate the flanges, to replace OEM muffler with an aftermarket muffler. Problem is, the aftermarket muffler rotted at pipe that is welded to muffler. When I cut the flanges, my oem muffler ended up with metal shavings in it. I would like to know sir, if it is safe to reinstall this muffler with metal shavings, particles still in it. I can hear them, rattle around, when holding the muffler in my hands, and flipping it 180 degrees back and forth. If I put this muffler back on, will it harm my car in any way..? I am on a budget, and car needs to be inspected within the next 30 days. Thank you for your time and any advice sir.
I doubt that a few metal shavings in the muffler would cause any harm. Check out my video where I cut a muffler open to see what's inside it. Yours is likely very similar. Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you. I am about to do similar repair on my 2009 Honda Civic. Question - the replacement flange is mounted on a flat (round but flat) surface. Will it not slide out ? There is nothing to prevent it. Is the pinch force from the 2 bolts enough to hold it in place?
Yes. It squeezes the pipe very hard and doesn't move. The old flange in the video is still on there... it was five or six years old at the time. The original pipe the factory flange rotted off of is still holding up as well! Thanks for watching!
@manabouthome thank you for quick response. One more thought - the pipe got shorter after the original flange rusted off. Do I have to extend it or there is enough slack on hangers etc to make it work?
You're the best judge of that, since I can't see it. But I added some links in the description for different styles of flange repairs that include a short piece of pipe... maybe something like those would work for you? I'm sure there are others as well.
Hello sir What was your vehicle doing for a noise that you change the flange I have a 2017 sante fe sport Mine makes a weird noise when starting and if I drive really slow weird noice happens When I drive fast it’s ok
My flange was heavily rusted, to the point where it gradually got louder and louder. It eventually broke and fell apart. If your exhaust system has developed a leak due to rust, it will get worse, then eventually fall apart. I'd suggest having it evaluated by a good shop, and get their recommendations, and a cost estimate, before it falls apart. If it's extremely expensive, and it's still holding together, get multiple estimates. Thank you for watching!
Where exactly does the flange sit on the pipe, the flared portion or non flared portion? Not sure what size to order because there's an eighth inch difference between these two sections of the pipe
The new flange is on the straight section of pipe that the donut goes on... the non flared side. If you wrap a piece of string around the pipe and mark it where the two sides meet, you can measure that length of the string, mark to mark. Then divide that length by 3.14 (Pi) to get the diameter of the pipe. Watch this: He shows how to do the string measurement. ua-cam.com/video/sxrXj6B0mDU/v-deo.html corrected: Circumference/3.14 = Diameter
If it's a stock exhaust system, you can look up exhaust parts on Rockauto.com . I get a lot of part numbers off there. And they often have the best price.
Can i get a link to that doughnut thing? I have the resonator end withiut a flange and will be buying a new cat convertor (damn thieves) which will have a flange.
"Donut" is a slang term for the round exhaust seal/gasket often found on the flange connections like the converter pipe to the resonator pipe. Here's an example - WALKER 31639 (There are many others.) which can be seen here: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1053797&cc=1443529&pt=5836&jsn=22 Even if you're not purchasing from Rock Auto, their parts lookup can be quite useful for finding information! www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 Thanks for watching!
@@luisponce1472 The flange gasket is shaped like a donut. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836 I usually look up parts on rockauto.com. They often also have a good price.
FYI...Toyota manual says use a flat block of wood that covers the entire diameter of the gasket ID, when hammering the flange gasket in place. The unspoken idea is that it needs some "oomph" to seat...and if you use a large flat piece of wood, you don't knick small areas of the flange gasket that can leak, like when using a metal tool that hits on smaller areas alone...as in this vid....it doesn't take much. I've seen gaskets where a scratch on the rounded surface of the gasket caused an exhaust "whistle" that was hard to trace. Also.....the springs were not meant to be in full-compression. The idea is to have the coils not touch each other...such that this connection ( notice the gasket surface has a "Rounded" edge), can slightly "rotate" one piece to another. Oops...just saw you made that same comment. In any case, its also to allow a small degree of "rotation"...not just "elongation"..... along the long axis.
Sounds good. Thanks for watching!
@@manabouthome ...good job on the vid and the pieces you present.....
@@TheWilferchThank you!
@@manabouthome ...no problem...well done prsentation.....and think how much harder it would be for us many DIY guys who look for parts like this and have no real idea where else to look?..... excellent !!! .....
I was about to say just use a piece of wood
Not all hero wear caps, you sure have saved me!!! Thanks
You're welcome! I'm happy it helped. Thanks for watching!
I've needed something exactly like this for my old ranger! Thanks a bunch!
Happy to help. Thanks for watching!
Thank you. Grandma just had to replace a stolen catalytic converter…didnt know if i had to tear the old flange off
Also liked you talking about tight to tighten the spring bolts. I will know what to do when the next one gets stolen..
Happy to hear. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Cool Beans! I learned something. I like the idea. Could save this old man some money. Thanks.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Ridiculous in this day and age, OEM parts still include the planned degradation of stamped flanges...keeps the dealerships bzy I guess. Great job on the repair. Im currently researching for a 2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport flange repair. After primary pipe flange that joins the muffler flange. That or buy a whole new muffler plus parts and labor...$600.00!!!!
Thank you! I usually check Rock Auto, Ebay, and Amazon first. Then expand my search if needed. My stainless steel exhaust video... cat back exhaust system was from Ebay. Yeah, prices are ridiculous. Good luck with your parts search!
Great job, I have a 2005 toyota matrix xr it came apart at the back❤
I hope it helps. Thanks for watching!
I always thought the spring were to allow a little flex in the pipe so it doesn't put too much stress when the entire system flexes
Ok. Yep, that's one reason they're there. Did you hear what I said about that? Probably missed that part. The fact of the matter is, I've done it this way for 50 years, and it doesn't make any difference. Thanks for watching.
@@manabouthome I wasn't criticizing... just sharing what i guessed it was for many years. I liked the video 🙂
@@ureviews Thank you! You weren't wrong. That's what it's for, as well as allowing the engine to breath if the exhaust pipe is plugged. I just know it doesn't make much difference, since I've always tightened them down. By the way, I used a spring bolt set I had on hand. They aren't the exact Subaru part for the application. So maybe there's a difference there. Thank you for watching and commenting.
why not add a flex pipe instead of it
@@davidsog1769 Why do butchery when it's so easy and inexpensive to keep it stock? This repair will last longer than the pipe. Thank you for watching.
If you bottom out the springs I.E. coil bind the springs, you are taking out all the articulation from the exhaust, this puts a lot of stress on the exhaust flange.
Yeah, I mentioned that in the video. That shiny new flange replacement in the video was done 6 years ago. It had to be done to replace the original Subaru factory exhaust system because it rusted away. Not because of spring bind in the Subaru factory installation. That replacement flange is now heavily rusted but it's still solid and going strong. The original replacement with the springs cranked down has never been a problem and never will be. There's still plenty of movement in that joint. Thank you for watching!
Thank you Sir... Video is perfectly too the point
You're welcome. Thank you for watching!
Great video man. Points well taken
Thank you... and thanks for watching.
Thank you very much!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for sharing the videos, that's exactly what i needs😊😊😊
You're welcome. Happy to hear it! Thank you for watching and commenting.
I am not sure a hammer would have been a better tool than the handle of the socket wrench. This is because the handle spreads impact more evenly against the donut gasket, and pressure of the impact is less important than an even pressure.
4:33 I don't think that the springs are there for exhaust pressure relief but rather to set proper compression on the seal and allow some movement across the joint due to vehicle, engine and exhaust differential movement. This is why the bolts in complete bolt/spring/nut kits from Walker and the like have shoulders on them so they can be tightened down snug to prevent loosening but at the same time the springs allow proper seal compression.
They serve multiple purposes. Thanks for watching.
brilliant. tyvm.
Thank you for watching.
Thanks for the idea. Very good explanation.
Thank you for watching!
Very good video.. thanks👍👍👍👍💯💯💯
Thank you for watching!
Maestro, gracias.
usted es ¡bienvenido!
Who knows what the bolts that are connected from the headers to the exhaust are called the ones that have the little springs
The Dorman part (DORMAN 03114) for the Subaru, is described as "exhaust manifold bolt and spring kit". It's easy to find parts and what they're called on rockauto.com. Thanks for watching and good luck!
Wel l said thanks!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching.
howd you compress the spring on the bolt? been working on some exhaust and cant seem to compress it to install it
It was easy on this one. I could squeeze the spring enough to get the bolt on. Maybe try squeezing the spring with a
water pump pliers. Like Channel Lock. Thanks for watching.
Awesome thank you so much. It's what I needed
You're welcome! I'm happy to hear it helps. Thanks for watching!
when using freshly cut pipes will a unflared end still hold the flange repair
If it's the correct size, I don't see why not.
@Man About Home Good day sir, I used a grinding wheel to seperate the flanges, to replace OEM muffler with an aftermarket muffler. Problem is, the aftermarket muffler rotted at pipe that is welded to muffler. When I cut the flanges, my oem muffler ended up with metal shavings in it. I would like to know sir, if it is safe to reinstall this muffler with metal shavings, particles still in it. I can hear them, rattle around, when holding the muffler in my hands, and flipping it 180 degrees back and forth. If I put this muffler back on, will it harm my car in any way..? I am on a budget, and car needs to be inspected within the next 30 days. Thank you for your time and any advice sir.
I doubt that a few metal shavings in the muffler would cause any harm. Check out my video where I cut a muffler open to see what's inside it. Yours is likely very similar. Thanks for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/sbSDDA6VWkI/v-deo.html
Enkelt och smart👍🇸🇪
Great video, thank you. I am about to do similar repair on my 2009 Honda Civic. Question - the replacement flange is mounted on a flat (round but flat) surface. Will it not slide out ? There is nothing to prevent it. Is the pinch force from the 2 bolts enough to hold it in place?
Yes. It squeezes the pipe very hard and doesn't move. The old flange in the video is still on there... it was five or six years old at the time. The original pipe the factory flange rotted off of is still holding up as well! Thanks for watching!
@manabouthome thank you for quick response. One more thought - the pipe got shorter after the original flange rusted off. Do I have to extend it or there is enough slack on hangers etc to make it work?
You're the best judge of that, since I can't see it. But I added some links in the description for different styles of flange repairs that include a short piece of pipe... maybe something like those would work for you? I'm sure there are others as well.
@@manabouthome thank you 😊
@@lesio333 You're welcome. Good luck!
Hey this really helped me. Thank you!
Happy to hear it. Thanks for watching!
Hello sir
What was your vehicle doing for a noise that you change the flange
I have a 2017 sante fe sport
Mine makes a weird noise when starting and if I drive really slow weird noice happens
When I drive fast it’s ok
My flange was heavily rusted, to the point where it gradually got louder and louder. It eventually broke and fell apart. If your exhaust system has developed a leak due to rust, it will get worse, then eventually fall apart. I'd suggest having it evaluated by a good shop, and get their recommendations, and a cost estimate, before it falls apart. If it's extremely expensive, and it's still holding together, get multiple estimates. Thank you for watching!
Where exactly does the flange sit on the pipe, the flared portion or non flared portion? Not sure what size to order because there's an eighth inch difference between these two sections of the pipe
The new flange is on the straight section of pipe that the donut goes on... the non flared side. If you wrap a piece of string around the pipe and mark it where the two sides meet, you can measure that length of the string, mark to mark. Then divide that length by 3.14 (Pi) to get the diameter of the pipe. Watch this: He shows how to do the string measurement. ua-cam.com/video/sxrXj6B0mDU/v-deo.html
corrected: Circumference/3.14 = Diameter
If it's a stock exhaust system, you can look up exhaust parts on Rockauto.com . I get a lot of part numbers off there. And they often have the best price.
@@manabouthome Perfect. Thanks very much, excellent video.
@@dominicbasile5041 You're welcome, and good luck.
Can i get a link to that doughnut thing? I have the resonator end withiut a flange and will be buying a new cat convertor (damn thieves) which will have a flange.
I look part numbers up on Rockauto.com . Check it out. Thanks for watching!
Where😊
Where what?
what kind of donut was it? is there a part number?
"Donut" is a slang term for the round exhaust seal/gasket often found on the flange connections like the converter pipe to the resonator pipe.
Here's an example - WALKER 31639 (There are many others.) which can be seen here: www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1053797&cc=1443529&pt=5836&jsn=22
Even if you're not purchasing from Rock Auto, their parts lookup can be quite useful for finding information!
www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836
Thanks for watching!
What is The Part Called to Tighten the Pipe
Are you referring to the bolt/spring kit? www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,bolt+/+spring,10741
@@manabouthomeYes and the Other One is a Donut Seal right?
@@luisponce1472 The flange gasket is shaped like a donut. www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2009,outback,2.5l+h4,1443529,exhaust+&+emission,pipe+flange+gasket+/+seal,5836
I usually look up parts on rockauto.com. They often also have a good price.
Ok, im not a Welder but This helps alot i will be Doing This as Soon as Temperatures Drop in AZ
@@luisponce1472 Thanks for watching!
🙏👍
Spring too tight
Heh. No kidding. I guess you didn't watch the video and hear me say that. It's fine though. Never been a problem. Thanks for not watching!
My bad didn't have audio on
Sears Craftsman make the best ratchet hammers!
Multi purpose tools! Thanks for watching.
thanks for posting video. this is a great option for my tundra
You're welcome. Good luck with it. Thanks for watching!
Great information and presentation, thank you!
Thank you for watching!