The usefulness of your very professionally done video lives on. My 2020 rs was too blacked out for me so I put brushed covers on it. Bought some used cases and sanded and brushed them with great results. It helped to know what lurked within before turning the bolts. A couple of useful things I discovered. The alternator cover for the rs is different from the other 1200s. Different stator mount. Also when the clutch cover came off and the gear falls loose, the shaft slipped further into the gear and I was unable to pull it back out until I used a magnet stick. The clutch cable reinsertion into the lever was easy if you do it while the cable is not mounted to the cover bolts.Thanks for the tutorial. John
So glad it was helpful for you! Thank you so much for adding your comments on the differences between this and the RS model! I have pinned it so that it can hopefully help others.
Appreciate the video. I have a Street Scrambler and watched this to help understand how to get my bike back together after replacing the shifter shaft.
Thanks William! I'm at the part where I'm trying to line up that clutch rod into the button and this is my 4th attempt at it. When I think I've got it, the actuator arm at the bottom moves back and forth to about 80 degrees and I know that's not right cause there's way too much clutch cable available to slip into the notched area (whereas when I was taking it off it was pretty tight). I guess this is a common problem when re-installing that cover and I'll just keep at it. Thanks for this video because it confirms that I something was wrong, mainly me. Cheers.
Video was spot on William. Appreciate the video steph through. Ordered these covers some time ago and never got around to swapping. FWIW - For the stator side cover, it actually was easier while working on the bike get the siliocone in the wiring grommet, and then have the gasket on the cover before installing vs. having the gasket on the engine side. Thanks again! Hope you still have that bike.
I've been considering doing this same thing to my Bonneville T120 when doing my my autumn oil change but was a bit intimidated until I fund this. Excellent video; gives me the confidence to tackle the job. Your efforts at making this are much appreciated.
Thanks again. Here is some feedback from my experience after watching Will's videos: Cable off: -Getting the cable off; you may need to adjust the cable at the clutch itself to gain a little more slack at the bottom Clutch foot lever: -When you go to take your clutch foot lever off, you can adjust the nuts on the ball socket part that hold it to the clutch arm and the foot lever itself. Working between the two bolts/nuts you can provide more room to slide it off (warning these teeth are sensitive and precise, it needs to be lined up with the dot exactly when you put it back on or the clutch wont work) Engine Cover removal: -When pulling off the engine cover, you may need to use a block and rubber hammer; my gasket was really wedged at the bottom and it was hard to pull off with just my fingers - When pulling it off, turn the clutch arm (or what ever you want to call it towards the back of the engine cover (tail of the bike)), this will help push the engine cover away from the parts inside and will help get it off -A washer fall out when I took my engine cover off and I had to figure out that it went on the clutch arm itself (where the foot lever attaches, inside the engine cover) -That top gear does come out with the engine cover, as it was the same for me, I removed it and replaced it about five times to make sure I had it right. It's very finicky, and I wasn't sure till I started my bike up after the job that it was 100% in the right place. I would say the best way to ensure it's resting right is by making sure the gears are lined up the proper way and not tilted. Also be careful, the arm that the gear actually sits on may slide out of the gear itself, I had to catch mine a few times -My engine cover did not have a sound deafing plate (if yours does, I suggest using loctite inside to make sure those screws are super tight) Engine Cover Reinstall: -Make sure your arm is pointing towards the back of the bike to get the pin and the hole lined up -After the cover is on, the hardest part was getting the clutch cable back on the arm. I too was fooled because I could only push the clutch arm so far forward (towards the front of the bike) which was confusing because I did not think I had enough cable for the clutch system to work fully from the hand lever down to the arm where the cable attached. However after struggling and adjusting the cable I had enough slack and it slipped on. I then tested with the hand lever and for some reason everything worked out perfectly. It is definitely tricky when you are trying to run it in your head how it works. Lastly when I turned on my bike my gear indicator was off. I was concerned that I shifted my bike when working on it and some how the computer got off on what gear the bike was in when I started the job. Lastly, firing your bike up is the scariest part. Especially that one gear that falls out when you take your engine cover off, I was pretty sure I had it back in the right place... but you aren't ever quite sure till you fire up the bike and there are no awful noises Luckily that wasn't the case for me thanks to this video. Thanks again Will for the video and the help. Hopefully that helps or makes sense for someone (sorry if the terms are not exact for the parts) Best- Shea
Thank you for these great additions! I've actually pinned this as the top comment hoping it will help others in the future. So glad the video was helpful!
What could/would happen if by mistake the bike was not in the gear that it was in when the work started? I'm about to put the cover back on (after many attempts this afternoon to try and get that friggen rod to catch the button) but I'll walk away and try again tomorrow morning with a fresh outlook and rested nerves.
Awesome video, thanks for posting. My clutch cover coating is peeling off (Speed Twin); a common occurrence I'm told. Just need to decide whether to get the original powder coated by a local firm, or jus buy a new part. Thanks again and safe riding!
I'm going the opposite route pulling the powder coated bits off of my 2022 Bobber in favor of the brushed. I was going to have the dealer do it at the 500 mile service but your video leads me believe I can pull it off and not have to pay dealer labor fees. I bought a HF bike lift for such things, I may as well take advantage of the crappy weather and do some wrenching.
I'm glad it was helpful! I love the Bobber. I almost bought one when I got this Thruxton! Coming from a Daytona though, I decided I wanted to stick with the sporty ride for now.
Hmm...I do not remember specifically. If you're sure everything is disconnected properly, it's likely the old gasket holding it tight. I would take a rubber mallet and start with some light taps increasing force until it pops free.
“This is probably the last thing I’ll do to it, for a little while”. LOL... you’re funny. I’m thinking this is my next mod. Not quite ready to take on the air box delete quite yet... may wait until winter to take that one on. I’m worried that once I have the black covers, new wheels will be a must have (in my mind)
@@wpanik Thank you William, I do appreciate it. I couldn't get any decent images of the clutch & alternator covers removed, so you've been very helpful. And no need to apologise either, I also appreciate that keeping up with comments can be, erm, somewhat demanding... Anyway, thanks again, William. All the best, Chris
Hi. Im having some real problems getting the actuator arm to sit right on my T120, when replacing the clutch cover. Not many people talk about it, but you do on this video! I havent managed to get it right yet, but it does feel like it has gripped the pull rod when fitted. 🤷♂️ Dont know what to do with it. Any tips?
The thing that kept tripping me up was thinking that if I had it in place correctly, I should be able to actuate it with my hand. However, this turned out not to be the case. I needed the mechanical advantage of the clutch lever to actually move it. So I had done it correctly several times without actually realizing it. I would say if it feels like you've got it and it's not freely spinning. Maybe throw 4 or so bolts in to hold the cover on and then give the lever a pull to see if it's working. Keep in mind that you can always put the bike in gear and see whether or not the clutch is actuating without needing to start it!
@@wpanik What did you mean by spinning? What's supposed to be spinning here? I ask because I'm having the hardest time getting that rod inside the cover to catch the button properly and when I think I have it, it's movement goes from 10 (o'clock) to 2 (o'clock) but in reality shouldn't it be going from 3 (oclock) to 12 (oclock)?
Nothing should be freely spinning. That's what I was getting at. If you haven't caught the linkage, the shift lever will be able to spin all the way around because it's not catching anything. Did you remove the actual shift lever from its shaft at any point? That shaft and lever are splined so that you can adjust the actual shift position. That said, if you didn't remove the lever from the shaft, the position wouldn't have changed from where it was when you started. However, if you did separate them, it's possible you just changed the alignment when putting it back together.
Hey! Thanks for the video! Just a question regarding small balls bearing in clutch cover (those for gear shafts). How did you removed them before powder coating? Thanks
They were changing a little but then I got something melted to them. I did a full Scotch Brite of them and they went back to their factory coloring. After a couple of years they're starting to take on a good bronzing again.
Hey thanks for doing this. I’m about to do this to my TTR this weekend. Question on the sound deafing piece, did you use anything to make sure those bolts were extra tight and locked in? Also are the engine cover bolts set to torque to 10 NM as well?
Great! Hope it helps. Yes, I put a dab of Loctite on the bolts for the sound deadening block. Also, yes, 10Nm for both the clutch and alternator covers.
@@steveFL450 If it's a subscription which can be cancelled, and if it's actually a Thruxton you have, there's a full version of the shop manual here! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DOGndAJsmMhbImnQRwOMYiGKYIWsZF8z As for the clutch cover, I don't exactly remember what I did. Once I had re-confirmed that everything is correctly disconnected, I would start tapping on it with a rubber mallet until the seal was broken with the old gasket.
SYNC KID Don't forget that you're fighting done pretty strong magnets here. Make sure you have a really firm grasp while avoiding having your fingers in between the meeting surfaces (that would be a MAJOR pinch) and pull VERY firmly. As long as you have all of the bolts out, the magnet is what you're fighting. Also avoid yanking it too far off the bike as you don't want to damage the cables running in.
The usefulness of your very professionally done video lives on. My 2020 rs was too blacked out for me so I put brushed covers on it. Bought some used cases and sanded and brushed them with great results. It helped to know what lurked within before turning the bolts. A couple of useful things I discovered. The alternator cover for the rs is different from the other 1200s. Different stator mount. Also when the clutch cover came off and the gear falls loose, the shaft slipped further into the gear and I was unable to pull it back out until I used a magnet stick. The clutch cable reinsertion into the lever was easy if you do it while the cable is not mounted to the cover bolts.Thanks for the tutorial. John
So glad it was helpful for you! Thank you so much for adding your comments on the differences between this and the RS model! I have pinned it so that it can hopefully help others.
Only video I've found talking about how the shifter shaft is to be installed. Thank you.
Of course! That part have me so much trouble. Can't tell you how many times over looked up UA-cam videos for stuff like that so glad I could help!
Appreciate the video. I have a Street Scrambler and watched this to help understand how to get my bike back together after replacing the shifter shaft.
That's great! I love hearing the different things people have used the video for.
Thanks William!
I'm at the part where I'm trying to line up that clutch rod into the button and this is my 4th attempt at it. When I think I've got it, the actuator arm at the bottom moves back and forth to about 80 degrees and I know that's not right cause there's way too much clutch cable available to slip into the notched area (whereas when I was taking it off it was pretty tight). I guess this is a common problem when re-installing that cover and I'll just keep at it. Thanks for this video because it confirms that I something was wrong, mainly me.
Cheers.
Video was spot on William. Appreciate the video steph through. Ordered these covers some time ago and never got around to swapping. FWIW - For the stator side cover, it actually was easier while working on the bike get the siliocone in the wiring grommet, and then have the gasket on the cover before installing vs. having the gasket on the engine side. Thanks again! Hope you still have that bike.
Great! Thank you for the input. I do still have it :) I keep thinking about swapping it out for a Scrambler 1200 but I just can't seem to do it!
Major help, great explanation and great diagram inserts. You were a godsend for doing this on my bobber.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the kind words.
I've been considering doing this same thing to my Bonneville T120 when doing my my autumn oil change but was a bit intimidated until I fund this. Excellent video; gives me the confidence to tackle the job. Your efforts at making this are much appreciated.
Thanks for the kind words! Curious if you wound up making the change!
Thanks again. Here is some feedback from my experience after watching Will's videos:
Cable off:
-Getting the cable off; you may need to adjust the cable at the clutch itself to gain a little more slack at the bottom
Clutch foot lever:
-When you go to take your clutch foot lever off, you can adjust the nuts on the ball socket part that hold it to the clutch arm and the foot lever itself. Working between the two bolts/nuts you can provide more room to slide it off (warning these teeth are sensitive and precise, it needs to be lined up with the
dot exactly when you put it back on or the clutch wont work)
Engine Cover removal:
-When pulling off the engine cover, you may need to use a block and rubber hammer; my gasket was really wedged at the bottom
and it was hard to pull off with just my fingers
- When pulling it off, turn the clutch arm (or what ever you want to call it towards the back of the engine cover (tail of the bike)), this will help push the engine cover away from the parts inside and will help get it off
-A washer fall out when I took my engine cover off and I had to figure out that it went on the clutch arm itself (where the foot lever attaches, inside the engine cover)
-That top gear does come out with the engine cover, as it was the same for me, I removed it and replaced it about five times to make sure I had it right. It's very finicky, and I wasn't sure till I started my bike up after the job that it was 100% in the right place. I would say the best way to ensure it's resting right is by making sure the gears are lined up the proper way and not tilted. Also be careful, the arm that the gear actually sits on may slide out of the gear itself, I had to catch mine a few times
-My engine cover did not have a sound deafing plate (if yours does, I suggest using loctite inside to make sure those screws are super tight)
Engine Cover Reinstall:
-Make sure your arm is pointing towards the back of the bike to get the pin and the hole lined up
-After the cover is on, the hardest part was getting the clutch cable back on the arm. I too was fooled because I could only push the clutch arm so far forward (towards the front of the bike) which was confusing because I did not think I had enough cable for the clutch system to work fully from the hand lever down to the arm where the cable attached. However after struggling and adjusting the cable I had enough slack and it slipped on. I then tested with the hand lever and for some reason everything worked out perfectly. It is definitely tricky when you are trying to run it in your head how it works.
Lastly when I turned on my bike my gear indicator was off. I was concerned that I shifted my bike when working on it and some how the computer got off on what gear the bike was in when I started the job.
Lastly, firing your bike up is the scariest part. Especially that one gear that falls out when you take your engine cover off, I was pretty sure I had it back in the right place... but you aren't ever quite sure till you fire up the bike and there are no awful noises Luckily that wasn't the case for me thanks to this video.
Thanks again Will for the video and the help.
Hopefully that helps or makes sense for someone (sorry if the terms are not exact for the parts)
Best-
Shea
Thank you for these great additions! I've actually pinned this as the top comment hoping it will help others in the future.
So glad the video was helpful!
I know this is years later but that washer on the clutch arm was tripping me up as to where it fell out of. So thanks for that tip.
What could/would happen if by mistake the bike was not in the gear that it was in when the work started? I'm about to put the cover back on (after many attempts this afternoon to try and get that friggen rod to catch the button) but I'll walk away and try again tomorrow morning with a fresh outlook and rested nerves.
@cyrilleloreau1603 I couldn't imagine where that would matter as the gearbox is all internal.
Awesome video, thanks for posting. My clutch cover coating is peeling off (Speed Twin); a common occurrence I'm told. Just need to decide whether to get the original powder coated by a local firm, or jus buy a new part. Thanks again and safe riding!
Glad it was helpful! Hope you get it sorted.
I'm going the opposite route pulling the powder coated bits off of my 2022 Bobber in favor of the brushed. I was going to have the dealer do it at the 500 mile service but your video leads me believe I can pull it off and not have to pay dealer labor fees.
I bought a HF bike lift for such things, I may as well take advantage of the crappy weather and do some wrenching.
Great! Best of luck. You shouldn't have any problem finding someone to buy those black covers for $200-300.
Great job. Looks wonderful.
Thank you so much!
Thanks for making this video youve answered a lot of questions for me , Thrux looks awesome 😊
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the kind words.
Great video, I’m changing the covers on my bobber and this really helped.
I'm glad it was helpful! I love the Bobber. I almost bought one when I got this Thruxton! Coming from a Daytona though, I decided I wanted to stick with the sporty ride for now.
Covers look great. Thx for the great vid!
No sweat! Thanks for the kind words.
Great video, William. Will be doing the same to my TTR!
Glad it was helpful! It's a great looking mod.
Great video bike looks fantastic stay safe looking forward to next one 🇬🇧👍🏻
Thanks so much!
This was super helpful - thank you!
So glad I could be of service!
Hi William - do you remember how you pried the clutch cover off? Seems to be on very tight. Thanks.
Hmm...I do not remember specifically. If you're sure everything is disconnected properly, it's likely the old gasket holding it tight. I would take a rubber mallet and start with some light taps increasing force until it pops free.
“This is probably the last thing I’ll do to it, for a little while”. LOL... you’re funny.
I’m thinking this is my next mod. Not quite ready to take on the air box delete quite yet... may wait until winter to take that one on. I’m worried that once I have the black covers, new wheels will be a must have (in my mind)
It was! For about 6 months! 😂
I go back and forth about black wheels a lot. For now, I'm happy with them silver.
Thanks for the video William - I'd like to link it & plunder a couple of stills. Would that be okay with you?
Cheers,
Chris
Sorry for missing this comment! You are more than welcome to link/use stills.
@@wpanik Thank you William, I do appreciate it. I couldn't get any decent images of the clutch & alternator covers removed, so you've been very helpful. And no need to apologise either, I also appreciate that keeping up with comments can be, erm, somewhat demanding...
Anyway, thanks again, William. All the best,
Chris
Hi. Im having some real problems getting the actuator arm to sit right on my T120, when replacing the clutch cover. Not many people talk about it, but you do on this video! I havent managed to get it right yet, but it does feel like it has gripped the pull rod when fitted. 🤷♂️ Dont know what to do with it. Any tips?
The thing that kept tripping me up was thinking that if I had it in place correctly, I should be able to actuate it with my hand. However, this turned out not to be the case. I needed the mechanical advantage of the clutch lever to actually move it. So I had done it correctly several times without actually realizing it. I would say if it feels like you've got it and it's not freely spinning. Maybe throw 4 or so bolts in to hold the cover on and then give the lever a pull to see if it's working. Keep in mind that you can always put the bike in gear and see whether or not the clutch is actuating without needing to start it!
@@wpanik What did you mean by spinning? What's supposed to be spinning here? I ask because I'm having the hardest time getting that rod inside the cover to catch the button properly and when I think I have it, it's movement goes from 10 (o'clock) to 2 (o'clock) but in reality shouldn't it be going from 3 (oclock) to 12 (oclock)?
Nothing should be freely spinning. That's what I was getting at. If you haven't caught the linkage, the shift lever will be able to spin all the way around because it's not catching anything.
Did you remove the actual shift lever from its shaft at any point? That shaft and lever are splined so that you can adjust the actual shift position. That said, if you didn't remove the lever from the shaft, the position wouldn't have changed from where it was when you started. However, if you did separate them, it's possible you just changed the alignment when putting it back together.
What a beautiful bike bro. 💝😍
Thank you so much! I've lived having it.
Hey! Thanks for the video! Just a question regarding small balls bearing in clutch cover (those for gear shafts). How did you removed them before powder coating? Thanks
So sorry I missed this comment, I hope you got it sorted! I had received them already coated and with the bearings installed.
Great video. Roughly how much did the parts cost?
I bought them second hand for about $200. But I think if you buy each cover direct from Triumph they're about $200 each side.
Nice video, have you had the recall on the side stand spring since this video was taken?
I have! Thanks for checking.
Have those headers stayed that clean or changed colour over time?
They were changing a little but then I got something melted to them. I did a full Scotch Brite of them and they went back to their factory coloring. After a couple of years they're starting to take on a good bronzing again.
Hey thanks for doing this. I’m about to do this to my TTR this weekend. Question on the sound deafing piece, did you use anything to make sure those bolts were extra tight and locked in? Also are the engine cover bolts set to torque to 10 NM as well?
Great! Hope it helps.
Yes, I put a dab of Loctite on the bolts for the sound deadening block.
Also, yes, 10Nm for both the clutch and alternator covers.
@@wpanik thanks will, having a hard time with the clutch cable removal part, driving me nuts.
@@SK-kt2ch that was definitely the most frustrating part. Let me know if you have any specific questions!
Did you install the Arrow headers yourself?
I did not actually. They were installed by the previous owner.
Any specific question I might be able to answer though?
Just like to say…… "Sweet……..Sweet as……"
Never a waste to change the oil but you always change the filter.
Torque on the clutch cover
bolts?
Hi Steve - both covers say 10 Nm.
@@wpanik thanks! I broke down and subscribed to the triumph tech info. How did you get the cover off? It’s snug.
@@steveFL450 If it's a subscription which can be cancelled, and if it's actually a Thruxton you have, there's a full version of the shop manual here! drive.google.com/drive/folders/1DOGndAJsmMhbImnQRwOMYiGKYIWsZF8z
As for the clutch cover, I don't exactly remember what I did. Once I had re-confirmed that everything is correctly disconnected, I would start tapping on it with a rubber mallet until the seal was broken with the old gasket.
@@wpanik I have a speed twin actually. Thanks for your reply, you’re super helpful.
@@steveFL450 Thanks! I try to be!
I can’t get my alternator cover off
SYNC KID Don't forget that you're fighting done pretty strong magnets here. Make sure you have a really firm grasp while avoiding having your fingers in between the meeting surfaces (that would be a MAJOR pinch) and pull VERY firmly. As long as you have all of the bolts out, the magnet is what you're fighting. Also avoid yanking it too far off the bike as you don't want to damage the cables running in.
William Panik I was able to get off by using a block of wood and hammer from the opposite front side on the relief point.
Great! Glad it worked out!