Great video, well done! Some suggestions after doing this a few times😀 Removing of the lower pulley is painful but I would not recommend jacking up the engine like that You will absolutely trash your engine mounts!! The lower pulley bolt cannot not be removed as the hole drilled in the side of the engine compartment is both offset and too small. Jack up the engine to get the alignment and use a hand file or dremel on the flange of the bolt so it can slip through. You only need to remove a tiny amount for the bolt flange to slip through- takes me 5 minutes. You need to torque to spec otherwise your belt will be loose or to tight. This will affect your accessories All Pulleys are all 50nm The three upper and three lower engine mount bracket bolts 13mm ( one also hold the pulley are also 50nm) Its critical the tensioner if replaced is torqued to spec. The 10mm allen needs to be 90nm and the upper bolt on the tensioner 24nm Not much room but it can be done use a crows foot 10mm on a 3/8 torque wrench. You need to cut about ½ inch of a 10mm allen to slide in ! The top two engine mount 15mm bolts are 80nm The bottom two 13mm engine mount bolts are 35nm stage 1, and 90 degrees stage 2 Enjoy the beer after! 😎
I've just bought an Xc90 with this engine. I've been working on engines most of my life...but I must admit... this one gives me a little "trepidation".... the lack of working space.... and the complexity of the engine.... I am guessing, by the low number of views and comments, many feel even more intimidated at attempting this work on this (what I feel is a fabulous piece of engineering) motor. But, hey! Why? I started on one cylinder motorcycles...then two-cylinder bikes...went to cars with four, then six...then eight.... (Even did my bit on ship engines.....)(and I mean ships, not boats...ok.) And I confess... this V8 TRANSVERSE .. a load of electronics to boot (!) engine does make me more than a little nervous. But I'm game. I'm 67 years old and this is a challenge I need. I'm watching every video I can here on YT... Loving it. Thanks for posting. Stay well.
Yeah it's a triumph of packaging but that makes it a PITA to work on! You encounter the same thing when on a single model Mercedes-Benz sells a *HUGE engine range.* Sometimes from an inline 4 all the way to a twin-turbo V12. You can almost stand inside the engine bay with the 4 but that V12 takes up ALL the space!!
Do you know if the pulley for the tensioner is the same as the idlers? Everything measures the same and the pulley for it is bad, but don't need the whole tensioner. Thanks.
Very good video 😀 I have xc90 d5, but, i sink about the V8))) because the power will not be superfluous)))) On my channel i have some video about my Volvo, else ☀️
@@patagualianmostly7437 You would think so, but changing where it landed (before i found out where it originally was connected) was causing the ECM to register misfires at various cylinders depending on where i connected it.
@@matthewkuhl79 To achieve low NVH rubber isolation between parts is employed. That means not all parts of the car make a good electrical connection with the frame.
@@matthewkuhl79 Thanks for the feedback. 👍 I believed he was asking for the engine end..... Matt-from-Florida explains the body side perfectly. With hindsight, I'd have thought the location on the engine would have been self-evident.... ie, not stressed/taut. or overly sagging down. Cheers,🍺🍺
Great video, well done! Some suggestions after doing this a few times😀
Removing of the lower pulley is painful but I would not recommend jacking up the engine like that
You will absolutely trash your engine mounts!!
The lower pulley bolt cannot not be removed as the hole drilled in the side of the engine compartment is both offset and too small. Jack up the engine to get the alignment and use a hand file or dremel on the flange of the bolt so it can slip through.
You only need to remove a tiny amount for the bolt flange to slip through- takes me 5 minutes.
You need to torque to spec otherwise your belt will be loose or to tight. This will affect your accessories
All Pulleys are all 50nm
The three upper and three lower engine mount bracket bolts 13mm ( one also hold the pulley are also 50nm)
Its critical the tensioner if replaced is torqued to spec. The 10mm allen needs to be 90nm and the upper bolt on the tensioner 24nm
Not much room but it can be done use a crows foot 10mm on a 3/8 torque wrench. You need to cut about ½ inch of a 10mm allen to slide in !
The top two engine mount 15mm bolts are 80nm
The bottom two 13mm engine mount bolts are 35nm stage 1, and 90 degrees stage 2
Enjoy the beer after! 😎
I've just bought an Xc90 with this engine.
I've been working on engines most of my life...but I must admit... this one gives me a little "trepidation".... the lack of working space.... and the complexity of the engine....
I am guessing, by the low number of views and comments, many feel even more intimidated at attempting this work on this (what I feel is a fabulous piece of engineering) motor.
But, hey! Why? I started on one cylinder motorcycles...then two-cylinder bikes...went to cars with four, then six...then eight....
(Even did my bit on ship engines.....)(and I mean ships, not boats...ok.)
And I confess... this V8 TRANSVERSE .. a load of electronics to boot (!) engine does make me more than a little nervous. But I'm game. I'm 67 years old and this is a challenge I need.
I'm watching every video I can here on YT... Loving it.
Thanks for posting. Stay well.
Yeah it's a triumph of packaging but that makes it a PITA to work on! You encounter the same thing when on a single model Mercedes-Benz sells a *HUGE engine range.* Sometimes from an inline 4 all the way to a twin-turbo V12. You can almost stand inside the engine bay with the 4 but that V12 takes up ALL the space!!
Such a perfect explanation, camera work, and voice. Thank you!
Thanks for this video!
Am I right in understanding the tensioner is 17 min and counter clockwise threaded whereas one pulley is secured threaded clockwise?
Tensioner bolt is only counter clockwise to take tension off and release the belt . That bolt doesn’t come off .
Do you know if the pulley for the tensioner is the same as the idlers? Everything measures the same and the pulley for it is bad, but don't need the whole tensioner. Thanks.
What did you use to pain the Engine covers? Purple is cool!
Very good video 😀
I have xc90 d5, but, i sink about the V8))) because the power will not be superfluous))))
On my channel i have some video about my Volvo, else ☀️
Hi, can you tell me where that braided ground strap lands on the engine?
It goes anywhere, really... as long as it is not stressed or taut.
(The electrons are not intelligent life forms. ;-) )
@@patagualianmostly7437 You would think so, but changing where it landed (before i found out where it originally was connected) was causing the ECM to register misfires at various cylinders depending on where i connected it.
@@matthewkuhl79 To achieve low NVH rubber isolation between parts is employed. That means not all parts of the car make a good electrical connection with the frame.
@@matthewkuhl79 Thanks for the feedback. 👍 I believed he was asking for the engine end..... Matt-from-Florida explains the body side perfectly.
With hindsight, I'd have thought the location on the engine would have been self-evident.... ie, not stressed/taut. or overly sagging down. Cheers,🍺🍺