Very informative. I wish you would run through every Cura setting the same way, it would kind of turn it into a reference manual for everyone. I know there's an extension that gives information when you mouse over the setting but the extensions don't give examples to help someone understand and I usually don't know what the extension is talking about. Anyway, hoping you do more of this. Thanks
Irv, I really hope you realize how incredible your videos are. You manage to teach with such a beautiful flow that is a pleasue to watch. Always making sure you get the knowledge across, always with a generous smile in your face. Thank you for the time you put into your vídeos. Thank you for the generosity of making the information clear for beginners and more advanced makers.
Great information! You went through the process very methodically in way that makes my mental model of how the slicer and printer settings work very clear.
I don't yet have a printer but no matter, I learned something today from your excellent tutorial that enabled me to understand in layman terms exactly what is required to speed up the process of printing something and also some of the consequences of doing so. Thank you for your time and efforts.
He missed a lot of information, especially about the max flow rate of the nozzle, ringing and underextrusion. If you exceed the max flow rate then the printer can’t push plastic out of the nozzle fast enough and this leads to underextrusion which makes parts look worse and makes them weaker too, with his settings here he would have exceeded the max flow rate which might not show on small prints but larger prints definitely would. With high accelerations you get ringing which is usually compensated for with input shaping which he didn’t mention or use here either and for accelerations like this you need pressure advance too.
Good information. Also to keep quality high. Reduce outer wall speed and maybe add a extra surface that's set slower. Also for a bit more speed adjust minimum layer times 5 seconds is enough and minimum speed for when it falls under that 5 seconds. Save about 15 minutes on benchy.
Probably one of the most over looked ways to effectively speed up your printing is to have multiple printers. For me, it's not that I need a given print right now, it's that when the machine is running I'm pretty much stuck sitting on my hands. There's only so much prep work you can do for following prints when you've got 23 hours left on the current print. I have 2 creality FDM machines and a resin printer. When I'm on my game I can have all three going at the same time, and dip in during free time to unload finished prints and start the next. 😂 If I had to rely on a single machine and my free time remained unchanged actual per part speed would matter greatly, I'd be reduced to at most a print a day in most cases.
I have a request for you, please. Can you make a video on how to make a thread? Just a simple thread extern and intern. There are some videos out there but they put many other things in it that make it hard to follow and the explanations er far from as good as yours.Best regards Dan
I am frustrated with the bulging issue of filament inside the heating block of hot end (FLSUN Q5). This often causes nozzle clogging after a few layers of printing. Can someone suggest me the correct heat break settings(in the hot end assembly with the nozzle)? Please!! @MakeWithTech please make a video on this issue if possible. Thanks
In my tuning I've made many of the speeds (like long straight lines on infill) a lot faster. I was acceleration limited and tested how much I can up those. (In some printers like my prusa it has conservative firmware defaults that override slicer limits unless you change them on printer too! Perhaps max speed needed tweak too). I left the outer layers low, but upped up them a lot too. I think my Ender 5 did not have as conservative acceleration limits. I tuned my printer limits based on tests so it almost fails and a bit down and tune anything lower from slicer. Things like infill type can make a huge difference (long straight lines fast, curvy lines slow). Layer height is also obvious change, I tend to use 0.32mm with 0.4mm nozzle for fast prints. Also some new supports like tree supports can speed up things a lot compared to normal supports. For just testing if eg. a print fits somewhere, I also reduce layers and perimiters to low value (like 2) and very low infill (say 10%) to speed all up with compromising rigidity. Fortunately there are profiles and I can keep a fast tweak settings in one profile and quality print settings on another and choose whichever I need for every print. Oh, if you print lots of large prints, larger nozzle helps a lot too, but changing between nozzles and recalibrating is a hassle I'm not up to.
You need to make sure you aren’t exceeding the max flow rate of the nozzle, if you do you will underextrude and your parts will turn out worse and will be weaker. The best option for printing functional prints is to use a larger nozzle as anything printed with a larger nozzle is stronger anyway.
@@conorstewart2214Yes you do. I have a flow rate limiter also on, with what my device is capable of. That keeps it all under control if it starts really pushing a lot of stuff like when on lots of long lines.
Great video, some settings I already apply in my slicers, After upgrading my printer and installing klipper I managed to print a benchy with acceptable quality in 26 minutes. My printer is a Biqu B1 which is a Ender 3 v2 clone.
You say those speeds are fine for functional parts you won’t see like shelf brackets, but it is well known that the faster you go the lower the strength gets due to underextrusion and that is made even worse when the quality of the print reduces too as infill or walls may not be printed right. For functional parts if you want faster prints then use a larger nozzle and larger layer height since that is stronger anyway. You also ignored a major factor in going at those accelerations, input shaping, practically every printer you see advertising with high accelerations uses some form of input shaping and that is what allows it to compensate for vibrations and resonances. Just putting the acceleration up on an ender 3 doesn’t do any of that. You showed a ringing test but never actually mentioned ringing itself and how that does happen at high accelerations with compensation like input shaping. You settings may work mostly fine on a decorative and small part like that but for functional or large parts it is very possible these settings are not good. You also ignored the max flow rate of the hotend, which is one of the most important factors, if you exceed the max flow rate for that filament then you will underextrude and your parts will look worse and be weaker. Also no mention of linear advance which is pretty much required at those speeds and accelerations too. Lots of things omitted in this video, it isn’t just as simple as turn up the speeds and increase the layer height.
Yeah I am a novice. Yeah that seems like a robust easy-to-implement solution for faster printing. Just use a larger nozzle. I have a coworker that has been telling me how great it's been reducing print time by going from a 0.4 nozzle to 0.6 and still being pretty happy with the quality of the prints (aesthetic and functional). Not trying to say that videos that go into these settings and mechanics are necessarily a bad thing. But if someone's primary concern and target is just "I want to print faster without severe drawbacks" simply changing out the nozzle is a really good suggestion.
@@qus.9617 one thing you need to be aware of is the max flow rate of the hot end, pretty much how fast can it melt the plastic. Your hotend and nozzle will only be able to keep up with your printing till it's max flow rate, if you try and print faster than the max flow rate you will get underextrusion and weakness, similar to printing too fast. You calculate flow rate by multiplying your nozzle width (or line width) by layer height and multiplying that by the speed. So printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layers at 100 mm/s gives a flow rate of 8 mm^3/s. The E3D V6 is rated at 15 mm^3/s so with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer height the max speed is 187 mm/s. For a 0.6 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height it is 83 mm/s. So as you can see a larger nozzle and larger layers reduces the actual print speed given the same flow rate. Now if your printer can only move at up to 80 mm/s then the 0.6 mm nozzle will be faster but if your printer can move at over the 187 mm/s then the 0.4 mm nozzle will be just as fast since the flow rate is the same. So you should find out the maximum speed of your printer and the maximum flow rate of your hotend. These can be found manually and there are tests you can do to find them but it is easier just to find out what the parts are rated at. So in general larger nozzles may be faster but not always, it depends on the printer. If you have a slow bed slinger like an ender 3 then larger nozzles will be faster but if you have a fast printer like a bambu labs one then it might not be faster. You can increase your flow rate by increasing the temperature but that risks degrading the plastic if it gets to a slow area if you set the temperature too high, you can use CHT nozzles which have copper inserts that melt the plastic better or you can just get a higher flow rate hot end like a volcano hot end, but no matter which nozzle you use you will be limited by the flow rate or your printers speed. There are other reasons to use larger nozzles though, the prints tend to be stronger since the lines that make up the print are stronger themselves since they are thicker. You need to use larger nozzles for some filled filaments like carbon fibre filled or wood filled ones since the fibres can clog small nozzles. There are benefits to using smaller nozzles too, you can get a lot more detail but it will take much longer.
best way to get faster prints is use a 0.6mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm nozzle. very little sacrifice in print quality with a considerable increase in speed and print strength
Creality Ender 5 Plus: (Most FDM 3D printers) Cool down Heat Bed 15 minutes quicker Part 3 This saves 15 minutes on every print I do. Normally the Buld Plate takes about 30 minutes to cool down, this uses two fans to blow on the underside to cool it in 15 minutes. ua-cam.com/video/HdpCIEpWA5U/v-deo.html
WOW you wasted 22 mins of my life. All you said was quite useless, if the firmware isn't changed. But you did not show anyone how to change the firmware. The people below me have no clue of how 3D printers work, because they are amazed about this poorly instructed video with no resolution on a permanent solution of printing. All you did was ramble of some confusion and showed some setting changes. When you go to print, like you said, but they ignored that very important word, override. The firmware will override all of those setting, unless, like you said you changed them. But you never show anyone how to change them. Your quite the funny guy.
No hype, no fuzz, no fluff, no high-video-production and very informative. You are one of a disappearing breed in UA-cam. Thanks!
you do a good job. I've learned more today than i have in 3 weeks
You're a special guy in the best definition of the word.
I’ve been watching your videos for awhile now, and I just wanted to say thank you.
Very informative. I wish you would run through every Cura setting the same way, it would kind of turn it into a reference manual for everyone. I know there's an extension that gives information when you mouse over the setting but the extensions don't give examples to help someone understand and I usually don't know what the extension is talking about. Anyway, hoping you do more of this. Thanks
Thank you Erv, your channel has add a lot of value in my 3D printing. Hello from India.
My pleasure!
Your enthusiasm is infectious!
Thank you! Never messed with those settings on my printers. Great content
Irv, I really hope you realize how incredible your videos are.
You manage to teach with such a beautiful flow that is a pleasue to watch.
Always making sure you get the knowledge across, always with a generous smile in your face.
Thank you for the time you put into your vídeos. Thank you for the generosity of making the information clear for beginners and more advanced makers.
Great information! You went through the process very methodically in way that makes my mental model of how the slicer and printer settings work very clear.
I love the intro for the show. It is short, classy and gives you the info you need. Just like Mr. Shapiro!
Very well explained - many thanks for posting this! Best wishes.
Excellent video, thanks for going into this level of detail.
I don't yet have a printer but no matter, I learned something today from your excellent tutorial that enabled me to understand in layman terms exactly what is required to speed up the process of printing something and also some of the consequences of doing so. Thank you for your time and efforts.
He missed a lot of information, especially about the max flow rate of the nozzle, ringing and underextrusion. If you exceed the max flow rate then the printer can’t push plastic out of the nozzle fast enough and this leads to underextrusion which makes parts look worse and makes them weaker too, with his settings here he would have exceeded the max flow rate which might not show on small prints but larger prints definitely would. With high accelerations you get ringing which is usually compensated for with input shaping which he didn’t mention or use here either and for accelerations like this you need pressure advance too.
Just subscribed. I really like how you explain things. If it can't be explained simply then you don't understand it well enough is my philosophy!
Simply the best and most explained, thank you.
Good information. Also to keep quality high. Reduce outer wall speed and maybe add a extra surface that's set slower. Also for a bit more speed adjust minimum layer times 5 seconds is enough and minimum speed for when it falls under that 5 seconds. Save about 15 minutes on benchy.
Thanks, Irv. Off to hack my SV06 :). How about a Klipper series on the Sovols?
Probably one of the most over looked ways to effectively speed up your printing is to have multiple printers. For me, it's not that I need a given print right now, it's that when the machine is running I'm pretty much stuck sitting on my hands. There's only so much prep work you can do for following prints when you've got 23 hours left on the current print.
I have 2 creality FDM machines and a resin printer. When I'm on my game I can have all three going at the same time, and dip in during free time to unload finished prints and start the next. 😂
If I had to rely on a single machine and my free time remained unchanged actual per part speed would matter greatly, I'd be reduced to at most a print a day in most cases.
Great Video!!, hope you can make one on using Klipper software
Coming up next month.
Are you going to do the Bambu X1 Carbon, would love to see
I have a request for you, please. Can you make a video on how to make a thread? Just a simple thread extern and intern. There are some videos out there but they put many other things in it that make it hard to follow and the explanations er far from as good as yours.Best regards Dan
i dont have the print accelration option anymore on cura, its listed but greyed out and not accesible. can i change that some how ?
Amazing video and didatcs! Tysm
I am frustrated with the bulging issue of filament inside the heating block of hot end (FLSUN Q5). This often causes nozzle clogging after a few layers of printing. Can someone suggest me the correct heat break settings(in the hot end assembly with the nozzle)? Please!! @MakeWithTech please make a video on this issue if possible. Thanks
In my tuning I've made many of the speeds (like long straight lines on infill) a lot faster. I was acceleration limited and tested how much I can up those. (In some printers like my prusa it has conservative firmware defaults that override slicer limits unless you change them on printer too! Perhaps max speed needed tweak too). I left the outer layers low, but upped up them a lot too. I think my Ender 5 did not have as conservative acceleration limits. I tuned my printer limits based on tests so it almost fails and a bit down and tune anything lower from slicer.
Things like infill type can make a huge difference (long straight lines fast, curvy lines slow). Layer height is also obvious change, I tend to use 0.32mm with 0.4mm nozzle for fast prints. Also some new supports like tree supports can speed up things a lot compared to normal supports.
For just testing if eg. a print fits somewhere, I also reduce layers and perimiters to low value (like 2) and very low infill (say 10%) to speed all up with compromising rigidity.
Fortunately there are profiles and I can keep a fast tweak settings in one profile and quality print settings on another and choose whichever I need for every print.
Oh, if you print lots of large prints, larger nozzle helps a lot too, but changing between nozzles and recalibrating is a hassle I'm not up to.
You need to make sure you aren’t exceeding the max flow rate of the nozzle, if you do you will underextrude and your parts will turn out worse and will be weaker. The best option for printing functional prints is to use a larger nozzle as anything printed with a larger nozzle is stronger anyway.
@@conorstewart2214Yes you do. I have a flow rate limiter also on, with what my device is capable of. That keeps it all under control if it starts really pushing a lot of stuff like when on lots of long lines.
BEST VIDEO EVER
Very interesting 👍
Verry sweet and easy to understand god woork man!!!
Good stuff.
Hello Irv! I hope all is well with you and your family. I miss your broadcasts! Let us know how we can assist you! Best Regards…. Bill
Great video, some settings I already apply in my slicers, After upgrading my printer and installing klipper I managed to print a benchy with acceptable quality in 26 minutes. My printer is a Biqu B1 which is a Ender 3 v2 clone.
You say those speeds are fine for functional parts you won’t see like shelf brackets, but it is well known that the faster you go the lower the strength gets due to underextrusion and that is made even worse when the quality of the print reduces too as infill or walls may not be printed right. For functional parts if you want faster prints then use a larger nozzle and larger layer height since that is stronger anyway.
You also ignored a major factor in going at those accelerations, input shaping, practically every printer you see advertising with high accelerations uses some form of input shaping and that is what allows it to compensate for vibrations and resonances. Just putting the acceleration up on an ender 3 doesn’t do any of that. You showed a ringing test but never actually mentioned ringing itself and how that does happen at high accelerations with compensation like input shaping.
You settings may work mostly fine on a decorative and small part like that but for functional or large parts it is very possible these settings are not good.
You also ignored the max flow rate of the hotend, which is one of the most important factors, if you exceed the max flow rate for that filament then you will underextrude and your parts will look worse and be weaker. Also no mention of linear advance which is pretty much required at those speeds and accelerations too.
Lots of things omitted in this video, it isn’t just as simple as turn up the speeds and increase the layer height.
Yeah I am a novice. Yeah that seems like a robust easy-to-implement solution for faster printing. Just use a larger nozzle. I have a coworker that has been telling me how great it's been reducing print time by going from a 0.4 nozzle to 0.6 and still being pretty happy with the quality of the prints (aesthetic and functional).
Not trying to say that videos that go into these settings and mechanics are necessarily a bad thing. But if someone's primary concern and target is just "I want to print faster without severe drawbacks" simply changing out the nozzle is a really good suggestion.
@@qus.9617 one thing you need to be aware of is the max flow rate of the hot end, pretty much how fast can it melt the plastic. Your hotend and nozzle will only be able to keep up with your printing till it's max flow rate, if you try and print faster than the max flow rate you will get underextrusion and weakness, similar to printing too fast.
You calculate flow rate by multiplying your nozzle width (or line width) by layer height and multiplying that by the speed. So printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layers at 100 mm/s gives a flow rate of 8 mm^3/s. The E3D V6 is rated at 15 mm^3/s so with a 0.4 mm nozzle and 0.2 mm layer height the max speed is 187 mm/s. For a 0.6 mm nozzle and 0.3 mm layer height it is 83 mm/s. So as you can see a larger nozzle and larger layers reduces the actual print speed given the same flow rate. Now if your printer can only move at up to 80 mm/s then the 0.6 mm nozzle will be faster but if your printer can move at over the 187 mm/s then the 0.4 mm nozzle will be just as fast since the flow rate is the same.
So you should find out the maximum speed of your printer and the maximum flow rate of your hotend. These can be found manually and there are tests you can do to find them but it is easier just to find out what the parts are rated at.
So in general larger nozzles may be faster but not always, it depends on the printer. If you have a slow bed slinger like an ender 3 then larger nozzles will be faster but if you have a fast printer like a bambu labs one then it might not be faster.
You can increase your flow rate by increasing the temperature but that risks degrading the plastic if it gets to a slow area if you set the temperature too high, you can use CHT nozzles which have copper inserts that melt the plastic better or you can just get a higher flow rate hot end like a volcano hot end, but no matter which nozzle you use you will be limited by the flow rate or your printers speed.
There are other reasons to use larger nozzles though, the prints tend to be stronger since the lines that make up the print are stronger themselves since they are thicker. You need to use larger nozzles for some filled filaments like carbon fibre filled or wood filled ones since the fibres can clog small nozzles. There are benefits to using smaller nozzles too, you can get a lot more detail but it will take much longer.
@@conorstewart2214 that is a very helpful comment. Something worth looking more into and something I will consider should I need to buy a new printer
nice explanation but for the people that just wanna know the settings its may to long
Up and down is the Z-axis.
best way to get faster prints is use a 0.6mm nozzle instead of a 0.4mm nozzle. very little sacrifice in print quality with a considerable increase in speed and print strength
Creality Ender 5 Plus: (Most FDM 3D printers) Cool down Heat Bed 15 minutes quicker Part 3
This saves 15 minutes on every print I do.
Normally the Buld Plate takes about 30 minutes to cool down, this uses two fans to blow on the underside to cool it in 15 minutes.
ua-cam.com/video/HdpCIEpWA5U/v-deo.html
IRV!!!!!
Irv, I enjoy your videos but your presentation style makes me feel like a 12 year old. I'm 62.
WOW you wasted 22 mins of my life. All you said was quite useless, if the firmware isn't changed. But you did not show anyone how to change the firmware. The people below me have no clue of how 3D printers work, because they are amazed about this poorly instructed video with no resolution on a permanent solution of printing. All you did was ramble of some confusion and showed some setting changes. When you go to print, like you said, but they ignored that very important word, override. The firmware will override all of those setting, unless, like you said you changed them. But you never show anyone how to change them. Your quite the funny guy.
I think I lost at least 10 IQ points watching this.