I agree! The angle cut is essential. If I could add on to your comment, I also found it useful to hold on to the filament so It does not unravel and get tangled up when you open up a new spool.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!! It baffles me why nearly everyone seems to want to use pliers, tweezers, or even diagonal cutters to clean the nozzle!!!! I use a piece of paper, folded for strength, to clean mine. A popsicle stick is good, too, but the paper wraps around it to clean it better. You have inspired me, though, to create something better. The wheels have churned & I have a vision!!! Now, I have to watch the rest of this video! :)
Good selection, can't fault any of them. What I'd add is, a great alternative for bed leveling is a feeler gauge, was a game changer for me. I had saw them suggested a few times but never got a set until I got a free one with my calipers and gave them a go. Much more consistent that any kind of paper or plastic I've tried which (I suspect due to them being "squishable") sometimes threw my bed leveling off.
I've had my iFixit kit for about 2 years and barely used it until I got my 3D Printer. Very handy. The angled tweezers are useful for getting those little boogers of the tip before it starts laying filament.
Very informative video. I learned for me that a glass bed and some real cheap hairspray do the adhesion for me as long as your bed is level. I enjoy your videos, thanks.
Great video! Congrats and good luck with the channel revamp. Qq... What gear do you use for your content creation(mic, cam, etc)? And what is your workflow? Thanks!
I was so glad to finally hear someone praising the metric system. 😆 Otherwise, there was a couple of interesting ideas that I will surely borrow for my Ender 5 Pro (especially the ruby wrench, which is a perfect item to fine tune every nozzles). Thank you for all this valuable knowledge you're sharing. 🤗
nice i actually didnt ever look up the hex screwdrivers i always just made my own by cutting the bent end off and jamming in wood or drill end. the gold ones nice
All good tools and needed by everyone. I like the MagicGoo, but not the dispenser tip. As you said it lasts a long time, but I have trouble getting it to flow in a nice layer. I have to tap the tip to get some out then spread it around. It seems to work much better for PLA than PETG.
What is your opinion of Chitubox (CBD-Tech) encrypting all-new controller boards to only work with the Chitubox slicer? Keeping in mind that they manufacture the controller boards for many of the popular resin printers ( Elegoo, Anycubic, Phozen, Emax, Creality, etc) so this gives them a monopoly/control over the market. Firmware upgrades to older printers will also lock down those printers to Chitubox only. Note: Creality has stated they will not support this practice.
Just ordered the Kynup caliper. I've got two of the Harbor Freight models you show, and one, for some reason, subtracts 5.0 mm randomly from the reading as the jaws are moved!
The scale and sensor need cleaning. Not hard to do, just take out four screws on the back, use some alcohol and soft cloth. Wipe it down, should take care of it.
@@richbuege6491 Yea Rich I've taken it apart and cleaned/inspected all the components. There is nothing visibly wrong. I suspect an microcontroller issue. It also could be that the capacitance plates which are under the stick-on scale, could have a problem.
Thank you for the great tool ideas. I have my first 3D printer, a Prusa Original i3, being shipped as I write this. I already have most of the items on your list, but there are several I am ordering. I have a question on one. My Prusa will use a direct drive feed. Will the nozzle cleaning needle still work with it? Thanks!
Thanks again. The torque wrench was not available when I first ordered tools from your video. It is now in stock and I ordered via your link. I have not yet used all the tools, but I inspected them when they arrived and they are high quality tools. My Prusa Original i3 kit is up and running, and of the tools that I found useful, the hex key set you recommended was outstanding for assembling the Prusa kit!
Hi Irv! I just bought the .020 stencil stock. I thought that it was a great idea. I tried to "level" my bed but the result was a perfect string of PLA that did not adhere to my bed at all. Any Suggestions?
when I first started 3d printing I used Hair spray and glue stick They just made a mess Clean the glass well with alcohol do a good tramming of the bed, increase the heat bed temperature a bit and it really works good,never have problems any more
Irv, quick question for you or whomever might know. I just got some super lube that you suggested in your video, and wanted to see what I should be using it for. I have used it on my Z axis screws, but do I need to use it anywhere else? I have a Creality CR6 SE. TIA!
Highly recommend a big palette knife to lift prints off the bed. I combine that with a quick spritz of 99% isopropyl alcohol, and the prints simply fly off
So strange you mention "popsicle" sticks for clearing the nozzle, I use a wooden coffee stirrer from some fast food shop. If you stick your calipers on that metric ruler, you'll find it's something like 0.2mm thick! But I wouldn't suggest using it for height adjustment, you might bend the ruler, however, it might be a go-to solution if you lose your piece of mylar plastic.
@@MakeWithTech takes away brims and rough internal edges. Also good on printed internal screw thread. Just places what would otherwise be guard to reach..
The aluminum housing on your caliper does nothing as far as accuracy or reliability. Handle the ordinary ones, with a little care and they'll last just as long. I have a Brown and Sharp that's now over forty years old, sold back then for almost $200, but the battery box finally gave up. Oh, well. It owes me nothing.
I think it's important to be careful about the pronunciation of "silicon" -- the element used in computer chips -- and "silicone" -- the complex compound that you were referring to as part of your super lube. Silicone does have some silicone in it, but also many other things. Almost everybody is careless or unaware of the extreme difference between these two chemicals, whose names vary only in the pronunciation of their last syllable. Please don't be one of them.
Man this was super helpful as someone who just started the hobby. Thank you for making this video! Very professional.
Hi, I like the rebrand. Clean!
These are really useful tips for a beginner. Cutting the filament at an angle is essential lol
I agree! The angle cut is essential. If I could add on to your comment, I also found it useful to hold on to the filament so It does not unravel and get tangled up when you open up a new spool.
Thanks for another great video.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!! It baffles me why nearly everyone seems to want to use pliers, tweezers, or even diagonal cutters to clean the nozzle!!!! I use a piece of paper, folded for strength, to clean mine. A popsicle stick is good, too, but the paper wraps around it to clean it better. You have inspired me, though, to create something better. The wheels have churned & I have a vision!!! Now, I have to watch the rest of this video! :)
Good selection, can't fault any of them.
What I'd add is, a great alternative for bed leveling is a feeler gauge, was a game changer for me.
I had saw them suggested a few times but never got a set until I got a free one with my calipers and gave them a go. Much more consistent that any kind of paper or plastic I've tried which (I suspect due to them being "squishable") sometimes threw my bed leveling off.
I've had my iFixit kit for about 2 years and barely used it until I got my 3D Printer. Very handy. The angled tweezers are useful for getting those little boogers of the tip before it starts laying filament.
Very informative video. I learned for me that a glass bed and some real cheap hairspray do the adhesion for me as long as your bed is level. I enjoy your videos, thanks.
I knew from the beginning that No. 10 would be Magicgoo.
Great video! Congrats and good luck with the channel revamp. Qq... What gear do you use for your content creation(mic, cam, etc)? And what is your workflow? Thanks!
Another excellent video. I like to use the very same razor blade scrapper with a plastic blade. Never thought of using my soldering iron before.
The ifixit kits that come with hex bits are exceptional
Great itims
Thanks for sharing :-)
Nice video.
I was so glad to finally hear someone praising the metric system. 😆
Otherwise, there was a couple of interesting ideas that I will surely borrow for my Ender 5 Pro (especially the ruby wrench, which is a perfect item to fine tune every nozzles).
Thank you for all this valuable knowledge you're sharing. 🤗
I wish magigoo worked better. seems purple glue sticks are magic. Love your channel bud, keep up the good work!
nice i actually didnt ever look up the hex screwdrivers i always just made my own by cutting the bent end off and jamming in wood or drill end. the gold ones nice
All good tools and needed by everyone. I like the MagicGoo, but not the dispenser tip. As you said it lasts a long time, but I have trouble getting it to flow in a nice layer. I have to tap the tip to get some out then spread it around. It seems to work much better for PLA than PETG.
I agree
useful tips!
You're the best!
Thank you. 👍🏻
Awesome stuff! Number 7 looks like acupucture needles. I was expecting to hear Post-its, you've mentioned them before.
Great video, but one important item is missing on your list. The deburring tool. I use it on every print.
Dimafix is like insane. super adhesion when the bed is heated and pops off when cool
What is your opinion of Chitubox (CBD-Tech) encrypting all-new controller boards to only work with the Chitubox slicer? Keeping in mind that they manufacture the controller boards for many of the popular resin printers ( Elegoo, Anycubic, Phozen, Emax, Creality, etc) so this gives them a monopoly/control over the market. Firmware upgrades to older printers will also lock down those printers to Chitubox only. Note: Creality has stated they will not support this practice.
Just ordered the Kynup caliper. I've got two of the Harbor Freight models you show, and one, for some reason, subtracts 5.0 mm randomly from the reading as the jaws are moved!
The scale and sensor need cleaning. Not hard to do, just take out four screws on the back, use some alcohol and soft cloth. Wipe it down, should take care of it.
@@richbuege6491 Yea Rich I've taken it apart and cleaned/inspected all the components. There is nothing visibly wrong. I suspect an microcontroller issue. It also could be that the capacitance plates which are under the stick-on scale, could have a problem.
Great tips, but how tight do you make the tip to the transparent sheet compared to a sheet of paper or sticky note?
About the same. I want to feel real friction when moving the sheet but not so much the it leaves a crease line.
I have found that cardstock also works, it's .2mm thick t00.
Thank you for the great tool ideas. I have my first 3D printer, a Prusa Original i3, being shipped as I write this. I already have most of the items on your list, but there are several I am ordering. I have a question on one. My Prusa will use a direct drive feed. Will the nozzle cleaning needle still work with it? Thanks!
Yes.
@@MakeWithTech Thank you. Ordered.
Thanks again. The torque wrench was not available when I first ordered tools from your video. It is now in stock and I ordered via your link. I have not yet used all the tools, but I inspected them when they arrived and they are high quality tools. My Prusa Original i3 kit is up and running, and of the tools that I found useful, the hex key set you recommended was outstanding for assembling the Prusa kit!
Hi Irv! I just bought the .020 stencil stock. I thought that it was a great idea. I tried to "level" my bed but the result was a perfect string of PLA that did not adhere to my bed at all. Any Suggestions?
Sometimes, the wrench is for the hotend. Sometimes, there is even one to grab the heater block with.
when I first started 3d printing I used Hair spray and glue stick They just made a mess Clean the glass well with alcohol do a good tramming of the bed, increase the heat bed temperature a bit and it really works good,never have problems any more
Irv, quick question for you or whomever might know. I just got some super lube that you suggested in your video, and wanted to see what I should be using it for. I have used it on my Z axis screws, but do I need to use it anywhere else? I have a Creality CR6 SE. TIA!
Highly recommend a big palette knife to lift prints off the bed. I combine that with a quick spritz of 99% isopropyl alcohol, and the prints simply fly off
Spritz of alcohol is an interesting idea
So strange you mention "popsicle" sticks for clearing the nozzle, I use a wooden coffee stirrer from some fast food shop.
If you stick your calipers on that metric ruler, you'll find it's something like 0.2mm thick! But I wouldn't suggest using it for height adjustment, you might bend the ruler, however, it might be a go-to solution if you lose your piece of mylar plastic.
The screw drivers link does not work for me
I will check. Thanks for pointing it out.
I have all but the hotknife..
Another item for you list would be a de-burring tool..
What do you use the burring tool for. I have one for another purpose but have not used it with 3D printing.
I use the tool to remove the brim flashing
@@MakeWithTech takes away brims and rough internal edges. Also good on printed internal screw thread. Just places what would otherwise be guard to reach..
Instead of the screwdriver style I'd say a t handle set would better not cheaper but better
Forget the sheets buy a set of feeler gauge
If your printer is set up correctly you do not need any hairsprays or glues, in all my printing I have never ever had need for them.
The aluminum housing on your caliper does nothing as far as accuracy or reliability. Handle the ordinary ones, with a little care and they'll last just as long. I have a Brown and Sharp that's now over forty years old, sold back then for almost $200, but the battery box finally gave up. Oh, well. It owes me nothing.
l
I think it's important to be careful about the pronunciation of "silicon" -- the element used in computer chips -- and "silicone" -- the complex compound that you were referring to as part of your super lube. Silicone does have some silicone in it, but also many other things. Almost everybody is careless or unaware of the extreme difference between these two chemicals, whose names vary only in the pronunciation of their last syllable. Please don't be one of them.