Cummins / Chrysler External Regulator Overcharging Issue Fixed
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2020
- As we showed in an earlier video you can make your Dodge alternator charge in a swap by using an old school external regulator.
But we had an over charging issue and this is how you fix it. - Авто та транспорт
I had the original bypass for about 2.5 years worked fine then one day it just started pulsing eventually blew my interior lights, weird idle ect... found this video and re wired the relay as shown and boom my truck is like brand new again. Thank you so much man, saving people $1,000’s of dollars in unnecessary repairs and diagnostics.
I can't thank you enough. I have a Frankenstein jeep wrangler. I have been fighting this voltage issue for over 2 years. Wired in a 4 blade relay, just like you showed and everything is smooth as can be. Thank you very much.
This video really help me out. I added an external regulator and my multimeter was reading 15.2 volts. Everything was well explained in this video. Thank you
I’m glad to see you posting more of the Cummins videos again. Your audio is much better on this one too.
Thanks! I have more Cummins stuff in editing and posting in future videos.
Still trying to get the audio figured out
Thanks for watching
Thank you for this video! I followed your instructions from the first video to wire in the external regulator for my 6BT swapped 72 Ford F350 last night and fired the truck for the first time. I saw 15-15.6 V. I was bummed for sure. This fix makes perfect sense!
Thank you so much for this video. I tried it and it worked beautifully-volt needle steady at 14V, when before it was pulsating back and forth between that and 15.6/16V
Thanks for the kind words! Glad the video helped
Once again, an amazing informative video. Pure knowledge, sir! I appreciate you very much. Currently working on my 73 Chevy c30 Cheyenne crew cab Cummins swap. 😁
Glad to help. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching
Thank you for this! I've got a 73 dodge van that's overcharging (17-18v) and already blew one battery up before I realized what was going on. I've swapped a new alt and 3x Volt Regs to no available. It makes a lot of sense, if the reg cant see the battery volts then it cant regulate. I must have a ground short somewhere but this would definitely help me get back onto the road for now!
Glad to see you back with the Cummins. Back when i was having this problem a few months ago I tried this method using the relay to fix my overcharging issue and it never actually worked for me. Even getting 12v directly from the battery still yielded overcharging. I think my donor alternator has a bad rectifier or some other internal problem which kept this from working. In lieu of buying another alternator and possibly getting the same result (couldn't return it after it would have been installed) I opted for the PA Performance self exciting alternator. It just has 1 wire which goes to the battery and thats it. It automatically begins charging when the motor starts. It wasn't cheap but it was a sure fire fix whereas my external regulator setup may or may not have worked with a diff alternator. Oh, well. Thanks for the video, Ricky.
Well sorry about your bad lucck with the alternator. I was hoping this would help you out..
I already thanks you on fb page but gotta say thanks again! Just wired up my relay and no more pulsing lights and over charging ! Hopefully that will solve my issues with my electric fans as well!! Your the man!
Glad to hear that it worked for you.
Thanks for watching
Hey man my name is Jason from alberta Canada. I love my 98 12 valve I got it hopped up . But man I really appreciate your video on overcharging yours was the best informative step by step instructions. You rico my buddy should instruct and teach in a college . I think that is your second calling ! Thanx my friend
Thanks for the kind words but I barely finished high school so me teaching college is probably not going to happen.
Thanks for the praise and most of all thanks for watching.
What if you are still getting an overcharge situation with an external reg and a relayed 12v to the reg?
This is the best video, best explanation as well,.. many thanks this save me..
You've welcome. Glad it helped
@@RicosGarage yes you did it.. I submitted my feedback on Amazon cuz I bought external voltage regulator and did my review and I post the link of this video.. it's really helpful now my voltage is stable and charging at 14.7+ due to 6k watts system, I'm using a high output alternator from mechman.. many thanks.
simple explanation, most people would change the voltage regulator assuming that would be the only thing that can cause the voltage to rise to overcharging status
Awesome ricky. Thanks for the help on my situation.
Glad to help!!!
@Rico’s garage thanks for the tips. When I go get the relay is there a size or amp I need?
Rico u r the man ! I installed a external voltage and a relay . I hooked it up the way u Howes us and my volts are at 16
What can I do now brother ?
Have you verified this with a voltmeter or is this the gauge reading?
Make sure the relay is getting power straight from the battery and that the regulator is getting actual battery voltage.
@@RicosGarage yes it's from the gauge on the dash but I've melted the plastic at the alternator fuse already . This is the 3rd regulator I've traded in Frome the store
I can't get it into overdrive either I've tried tps delete kit . Tapped in a switch to lock it into od still nothing
Man I wish u were in Canada I'd ship u the truck lol 1998 12 valve I've done alot of mods to this engine and truck. She's cranking some horses
Dude, you just explained what I thought it was. Your video was hard to find, but worth it. Oh, and for your viewers, I f'd my original jumping some ass who asks for jumps instead of buying a new battery. If you don't trust em, don't jump em. And always surprised when I see other smart dudes with the Cummins vids hooking up pumps and relays with cat5 cable. Ohms law.....
Will this same set-up work for a no charge issue? I bought all the parts because it was overcharging, next time I went to start it, it barely started and it hasn't charged since then. ANY and all help is appreciated!
So I think this is the problem I'm having however my in dash volt meter bottomed out and I think I fried a second battery. Would this follow with the solution you showed? Thanks
Hi. I have a similar problem on a 2011 dodge ram 1500. The voltage to the head light on high beam is max at 11.8V and it's drops to 11.2V. You can see on the light that it's not steady. Do you have a solution for this? Regards Svein
@ricosgarage I did the exact set up and it fixed the charging at idle only but once I gave it throttle it starts to clim again up to 16-17 volts. Before doing this it was charging 16-17 when truck was running causing passenger battery to boil over smelling like rotten eggs. Then I found this video and I did the same set up and it charged fine at idle but once giving it throttle it goes back to 16-17 volts again. I put a new alternator and didn’t change anything. What else could it be?
I've got a 2016 ram 5.7L and it's over charging. I installed the external regulator fix. But it's over charging. I tried a test putting the power directly to the battery to see if a relay would fix it, but it still went to 16v when at high idle.. I'm out of ideas...
Will this work on 91 dodge w250...I did the same thing but it over chargers....when I rev it...goes up to 16-17 volts...ideals it backs down to 12-13 volts....ps it's a 360 LA gas engine....the computer is junk...had my friend came down from pa in install the old ignition system but had to put a rely on that back when we try to start it ,it would it tried when id back off the ignition key .....
How'd the battery volts on the cluster read
I hooked everything up like the video. It worked for about 6 months and I thank the voltage regulator went out because it is overcharging again? Any ideas?
I've got a 91 Cummins turbo Ram, and the battery has been overcharging and blowing the caps off the battery. Hope this will help
I am doing a Chevy Cummins swap and wondering what the heavier gauge wire is that went to the 2nd field terminal on the gas engine? That wire was also connected to a 2nd wire with a ring crimp connector that went to the battery connection on the alternator? I am just wondering if I need to connect those back to the alternator if they are running something in the truck? Thanks
Basically all you need is wiring from the back of the alternator to the junction box on the firewall and then follow my diagram for the rest.
My other videos detail all the wiring needed and how to use the factory gauges.
Thanks for watching!
I have same problem with 1990 W350 was planing on installing the transpo in8315
this was not at all clear in terms of what wires you connected and where. maybe i'm just bad at reading diagrams though lol. having this issue with my '77 ramcharger and this solution seems much easier and cheaper than buying a $200 one wire alternator, I'm having trouble figuring out how to wire it though. How would I wire this on my old '77? There's a blue and green wire going to the voltage reg, and one big black wire going into the firewall (and i assume into the ammeter, and battery, but i'm not sure where). any help you could give would be great, thanks!
Great video… But still having high voltage problem… 2011 dodge nitro… Putting out 19 V… With the relay… Any suggestions
Verify that your regulator is seeing actual battery voltage.
Wish you showed us the wiring process i don't know how to do it where u hook up wire to alternator at and others
ua-cam.com/video/wKDjS1hP-eU/v-deo.html
Refer to my first video on this
Still scratching my head on my 97 dodge ram 12 valve cummins. Replaced my alternator still same problem. Lights go dim And volt gauge goes low 8 to 12 even when I hold motor at a rev volt gauge goes low then back to 12volt over and over. Any suggestions. Thank you. Eric.
Check the two small wires on the back of the alternator. They have a habit of breaking inside the rubber insulator they are molded in.
If that doesn't work reference my other video on wiring an external regulator and bypassing the PCM voltage regulator.
Thanks for the video, it solved part of my problem. My 2003 dodge Cummins was over charging 16+ and pulsating. Now i added the relay and i get a steady 16volt no pulsing. I had the altenator rebuilt, no change.I checked all the grounds. any ideas?
Do you already install the external voltage regulator??
I have same issue with mine over charging so I did this step by step and worked great charging at 14v for roughly 5 mins then bounced right back up to 17v. Any idea why it's over charging again?
Sounds like your regulator is not seeing battery voltage.
1. Bad connection
2. Bad regulator
3. Bad relay or pull in circuit.
Hope this helps
Thank you so much fixed my problem on my dodge ram 2500 2001 5.9 , only thing i noticed is its not constant charging on initial starts 14.8 it jumps from 14.8 to 12.5-12.7 for a seconds or two at a time till it runs for 30 seconds then it stay at 14.8 any ideas?
Sounds like you are still getting a voltage drop somewhere.
Could that be your grid heater cycling on and off?
Name is Paul I got a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 hammy and the pcm is out alternator not charging battery how do I bypass alternator to charge
I’m pretty sure I had the same problem in my 89 d250 my lights on the message center would flash on and off and my battery was boiling the acid out before I could get it fixed it I guess it got some wires in the dash I saw smoke come out and some of the lights on the message center went out and then the truck died I changed out the battery and the truck will turn over but not fire up unless u give it some starter fluid I was hoping it just got a fuse or something I took the dash apart a lil but don’t see any burnt wires any help or insite would be greatly appreciated
Consult a factory wiring diagram and locate the fusible link (s)
This is most likely your problem and they will need replaced if burnt
I have a 1993 jeep xj, I had a very similar situation and that worked, but. I put a 20 amp fuse inline on the exciter wire and it blows under acceleration. If I keep the RPM under 2000 and get up to speed (65), it's ok. Any faster and it blows the fuse and we are back to battery voltage. I'm afraid to take the fuse system out but I'm confused.
Have you installed an external regulator or still using the PCM to control voltage?
@@RicosGarage yes a kit from the alternatorman. My original problem was on a trip and under acceleration. At that time all oem, it shut down completely. It blew the 20amp fuse to the computor 2 and shut it down, no start. Replacing the fuse at over 2000 rpm it pegged the gage at 19 volts but didn't blow the fuse. I went for the outside regulator and had the alternator checked.
First time I ran the exciter wire from under the dash in a switched location in the fuse box. I found the same problem you did. I also cleaned all the grounds. After that it worked but a throttle jab blows the fuse on the exciter wire. It don't seem to make that wire hot or anything I have held it in my hand while I rapped it up. But over 2000 rpm it blows the fuse. I have had it rechecked and have all the test voltages, but it leaves me scratching my head. I also got the alternator shunt for a better word that shut off the alternator light and it worked on the light.
My 91 dodge ram has voltage regulated issues which I have attributed to being a bad regulator. I will try this
How many amp relay do we need to use??.... There's a 30)40 amp and there's a 80amp...
30 amp will do just fine.
My wire from the batt to the alternator keeps burning and I’ve replaced the alternator for a new one on my 1991 w-250
My 24v 2nd gen bounces the rpms when I’m driving and I notice excessive post corrosion hopefully this fixes.
Hey so I did this now I don’t have any break lights and the fuse keeps blowing out as well?
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When I turn my right signal on its drastically drops the battery voltage. Any ideas what could be wrong?
When you had an overcharge situation it's possible your wiring got damaged. It sounds like your right turn circuit has a short. Look for a burnt wire or maybe a corroded wire or plug.
I'd say the problem is in the right rear and the both brake lights draw to much current and blows the fuse.
When the right turn us flashing does anything else flash? That would indicate wires melted together.
@@RicosGarage Yeah the dash lights dime with the right turn signal. I'll get under there more thoroughly and see what I find.
@@RicosGarage thanks for the info!
@@JaronWhelan No problem. Hope you get it figured out
I have a 04 2500 dodge diesel and I got told my external regulator is in ecm and could be bad and causing my batteries to keep draining
Can I do the same thing on my f250 powerstroke I'm having the same problem
I would say YES!
Great video, you have a part number for the regulator? I was told it’s internal in my alternator.
It’s not a factory part. Something in the pcm shorts out and you use an aftermarket voltage regulator kit. I have one on my rig and the voltage/lights have been surging so this corrects that after installing the external regulator kit. Something like that lol
@@creeperslim2334 Yeah, I’ve having overcharging issues with my 2nd gen. I tried getting a regular from the parts store, but they said my alternator has one built in. So, still having my batteries corroding…
Order a regulator for an 84 D100 with a 318.
That will get you what you need
@@RicosGarage Thank you, I’ll give that a shot!!!
@@RicosGarage One of the main problems with the so called "first-gen" external voltage regulators is that almost all of them are poorly constructed Chinese copies of the original Mopar units, and the failure rate is "off the charts", even the so called "heavy duty" units with the little adjustment pot on the back side. Actual American made Mopar units are readily available, and they're far superior to the cheap Chinese junk being sold at most of the Auto parts chain stores.
Mine doing same thing what kind of relay i need for it
You can get the 30 amp universal relay at literally any parts store.
I got the same thing going on. Put ne terminal on, then changed both batteries, didn't fix my problems.
My meter reading 15.2 volts just Still.
Driving it's 16.5.
What gauge wire did you use
10 gauge for battery power. 14 gauge for the lower amp side
🙏🙏🙏
My 09 dodge ram quit charging so I put and External regulator on it and now its charging hight up into the 18.17 how do I get it to level out with this S stonell regulator system. Its a gas power
Did you add the relay and follow the diagram as I have it in the video?
@@RicosGarage im going to do it today ...u thank that will fix my 09 dodge ram..I had to put this in because my pcm went out in my trucks computer
@@RicosGarage and that the same thing as is im talking red wir on and off the battery
@@brianyerty6381 I don't understand what you are asking sorry...
@@RicosGarage adding the relay ain't it the same as Touching the hot wire on n off the battery...I'm trying to get my truck fixed bc this is mine n my wife's only way of going
Oh, yeah, almost forgot. I think I have to pull my head off. My cooling system (all new components) is now starting to over pressurize. Tried the simple stuff and I'm fearing the worst.
Oh NO!!!
Keep me posted. Love hearing about my viewers projects.
yes it is good depending how you look at it but as similar as dual ignition ore a magneto ignition system is very usefull expecialy for economy and higher voltage to ignition system is benefisial depending again how you look at it 😉 the car feal's like it good a gear more its working lot faster then normaly but it works on clasic cars with carby's audio alternator static and coolant electrolisys can by reversed to do usefull work
Video starts at 2:06
Ever watch someone do a video while fighting heart burn? Damn.