Expose Carbs to Adjust the pilot jets - 1998 Suzuki Intruder 1500 ✔
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- Опубліковано 2 тра 2011
- Adjusting the pilot (idle) jets in the carbs. This might be a do it yourself job if you know what you are doing, but if not seek out a mechanic who does know what they are doing. 1998 Suzuki Intruder 1500. Please feel free to share your tips and suggestions.
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I have read that after removing the caps covering the pilot jets, if you turn the mix screws out 1/4 turn from their factory setting it usually puts the fuel mix in the sweet spot of where it should be for a strong burn rather than on the lean side as set at the factory. Let me know what you find out and think of that, as I have since sold mine and cannot experiment further.
Suzuki 1500 starting problem videos: • Starting Problem Fixed... and • Starting Problem Fixed...
Shimming the carburetor needles: • Shimming the needle je...
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If you have one of these bikes you should definitely join the Suzuki 1500LC/C90 Owners Group on Delphi forums.It's free to join.Good bunch of folks on there that know these bikes inside- out, and are always willing to share their knowledge. I have an '03 myself.
Man, it's comments like this that make putting videos like this together! I'm glad it helped you out, to see everything almost first hand, so you'd have an idea of what to look for and how to get there. Thanks!
THANK YOU SO MUCH for posting this!!! I have to make that cable adjustment in the other video!! I am very thankful this is here!!
Glad you found my video, Steve. Thanks for the comment!
Bought a bike all apart and your video showed me where all the screws go! Thank!
RevBiker Big D seriously? That's awesome! They make a good bike, I hope you enjoy riding it.
Mark Young - Outside The Box got an 03 vl 1500 intruder not running for $600.00 ! Own a 99 flstc and a 78 flh. Too! Bad solenoid, starter and kick stand Switches so far. Upgraded battery taller ,more amps.
Huge thanks for uploading this video saved me a fortune of euros from our rip of mechanics again thanks for an easy to follow and informative video great job
@russlongboarder Today I took my bike apart again due to the same problem you are having; it just will not turn all the way over as though the battery is weak. That's not the case. There are two decompression cables that pull from one solenoid. The cable to the rear cylinder is attached to the rotating arm of the front cylinder. I believe that cable stretched over time and use to the point where it cannot fully decompress the rear cylinder as it is intended. Video coming soon!!
Thank you so much, I think my TDM 850 has the same carbs also placed in the same direction like your Intruder. I couldn't find a good video about the TDM but this will do!
Mark
Thanks alot ,,its just what I needed to know and you did a pretty good job without to much excess talk and fuss.
Thank you, glad it helped!
That is awesome news, man! Ride on, my friend!
well thank you ,mybike never ran so good ,did a bit of playing around ,muchmuchbetter.
never ran that good before,since I got it,thanks to your video ,I got it going dame good.
Thank you for this Vidal information, that just made my day ! Yay!!
I've found most of my parts on Ebay. Also, try the website I just posted in the description due to youtube not allowing links in replies.
Thanks you answered quite a few questions I have been looking for
You're welcome, I'm glad this helped!
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
hello and thank you for your informative vedio, i would like to know if you might have some information on the decompression system , it seems that when i ride my bike i stop to get gas i have to wait to start her , it seems that the compressing is binding up , some one told me about the decompresson cable or system , can you tell me where it is , thanks for your time i have an intruder 1500 2002
@ElectricTN Good and helpful points! Thanks!
Since I see you're active in still answering questions on this video, I'll ask, look at pulling the baffles on my 03 1500, stock intake should I need to do this? Also seen the video about spacing the main needle, should these be done together? Also your video about fixing the decomp saved my bike from a dealer trip. Thanks
Michael Schilling Thanks for checking out my videos, Michael, glad the decompression one helped you out! I hope you are pulling baffles on aftermarket and not stock, that looks like it could be a real job. Anyway, I would judge how it runs after you do that before going too far with it. But if you notice it doesn't have quite as much pull after baffles are out of the way, I would recommend shimming the needles first. This made a big difference in my bike's pull. My gas mileage went down some, but that is to be expected. I'd rather run a bit on the rich side than lean which can cause damage. Try to find some really thin washers that will just fit around the needle. When I sold my bike, it actually has shim washers made from the aluminum sides of a soda can! (Yes, the are very small and hard to make, but not impossible with patience. I drilled a hole first and then cut around the hole with scisssors) Let me know what you find out.
Had my carbs worked on and after I got em back on, my bike backfires when downshifting or while rolling but not giving it any gas. Question is....would this fix my back firing issue by adjusting my fuel/air ratio???
good video-my 1999 had an extra vacuum hose on right side of breather.
Thanks for this video. I think this is my problem as well. I just wanted to ask a question (hopefully, not a dumb one). When you say that you turned the screws a quarter of a turn IN does that mean in toward the center? clockwise, or counterclockwise? I wanted to make sure before I put it all back together and have it running worse than before I started. Thanks in advance.
Hello Cinnamon, Yes, IN towards center, or Clockwise, and OUT would be Counterclockwise. IN will mean the motor gets Less fuel, and turning the screw OUT will give it more fuel to the air going in. I wish I knew for sure what the factory setting is, but I want to say 1 and 1/2 turns OUT after turning it all the way in until it stops, but gently so not to cause damage. If the motor is running weak, like it is getting too much air, turn the screws Out a quarter turn. If the motor is running with too much fuel it will run rough also, and you may see black smoke coming from the exhaust, so turning the screw In a quarter turn will lessen the fuel to the motor. I found quarter turns to be a good starting point rather than 1/2 turns or more. You can always turn it another quarter turn if the results are still not right. I hope this helps!
i have a 2000 intruder 1500 any idea where i could find aftermarket arts ive looked on jpcycles and they just dnt carry much
Hey Mark, I like the video and the bike! I have the '98 VS 1400 and a little while ago it was running lean due to a clogged pilot jet (it would sputter and backfire excessively at low-RPM). I pulled the affected carb apart and cleaned it, and although the backfiring stopped, the engine runs just a little bit rough now and has a bit less power accelerating at open throttle than it used to, even when it was backfiring. Any clues what might need to be fixed?
Hello! Thanks for the comments! The first thing I would check in your situation is the rubber diaphragm inside the round plastic "dome" on top of the carbs. If that butyl rubber cracks, it can cause an air leak and improper jetting for 1/4 throttle to wide open. I really like those CV carbs, next best thing to fuel injection when they are operating properly. If you don't find any holes in those diaphragms, maybe there is some dirt still inside it somewhere? Here is a video from Shane Conley, a very experienced mechanic/teacher with a run down on cleaning those carbs. ua-cam.com/video/3FmfO-mWv3Q/v-deo.html
Thanks for the advice Mark! I'm checking out Shane's video right now too
Check out the spark plugs too. If they are covered with a lot of carbon they could be fouling, not firing like they should.
Hi Mark . i am trying to help a friend with his s 50 BLVD 800 , ITS RUNS good under acceleration but dies when trying he puts it in gear . both plugs a black , should i try turning in the jets on bottom first ? or just go for a rebuild ? any info would be greatly appreciated thank you Ruben A
Black plugs show a too rich condition. Too much fuel to air. The screws mostly moderate how much fuel is added in the lower RPM's, so I would try turning them in first before anything else is done. My advice, if you have access to the primary jet screws (which it sounds like you do), turn them all the way in, counting EVERY turn as you go, and being gentle once you get to the fully closed point. Write the number of turns down. OK? So once there, turn the screws back out maybe half of what they were? If they were one turn out, return them to 1/2 a turn, 2 turns out - try 1 turn out, Etc. It may take some experimenting to get it right, but write down your starting number so you can always go back to that. Something I didn't do for mine and wish I did. Has the main jet been shimmed by chance, or totally stock?
Hopefully you still have this. Where does the hose coming out of the (video south) end of the carburetor, go into? It goes off to the right, but I don’t know where it connects into on the rest of the bike. Can you help?
Hello Travis, I don't still have this bike. Can you better describe where the hose connects? Is it attached at the bottom of the carb as a drain hose? Is there a place/time in this video that it shows?
I thought my 91 vs 1400 was a pain to work on your seems more good vid I like how your carbs are next to each other mine one blow the other and to adjust it it's a cable when did the intruder have a fake tank I know mine is real any way nice bike
I have a 1999 Suzuki 1500lc. I had issues starting the bike but I recently put in a Dyna 3000 ignition module and it has been staring fine since then. My issue is after 10-15 mins if I'm riding and I come to a stop light the the ideal starts to go up to about 3500-4000 rpm-( my estimate, I do not have a tachometer on the bike). Any thoughts to fixing this problem...
Peggy Brown Hello Peggy, I am not familiar with the Dyna 3000 ignition module and its effect on the motor. What was the reason you had it installed? This almost sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere that is acting like opening the throttle (adding air) once the bike warms up. I wish I could help you more, but I do hope you find the solution to your problem!
THANK YOU!!!!
have a 96 intruder vid on my channel.. that's a nice looking bike though sounds good, definitely ready for a ride :)
do you have to take the carbs fully out to rejet? This is my first time rejetting and it looks like i should be able to just flip them upside down like that? I just moved and im about 5k feet higher in elevation, thats why im rejetting
I don't know for sure, Jacob, but if you can invert them where they are it's worth a try. Just be careful not to drop any parts in places where they cannot be found again, or into the intake of the motor.
just getting into motorcycles. what does that do?
Hey Mark.. I have a 2001 VL1500lc. I am getting more familiar wit working on it as the days go by.. but still some unanswered things i cant find.. I thoroughly cleaned and just benched tuned my carbs and they are better than they were but still a little off.
Normally when you rev up from idle then let go the engine should drop back to idle quick. *Mine goes back to idle kind of slow when its all warmed up. Just for me to understand,
*(#1) Is that "more air than fuel" or "more fuel than air" that makes that happen? "slow return to idle"
*(#2) turn "pilots" in or out will fix this issue?
*(#3) Clutch basket is on the right side of bike? (sitting on it)
Thanks for the help bud.
+John Wilson Hey John, did the 'slow return to idle' thing happen AFTER you took the carbs off the bike, or has it always done this? I'm am not 100% sure of which, but my hunch would be more air than fuel, since you said it does this when the bike is warm. If you can get to them, I would try turning the pilot screws "out" one-half-turn (which would give it a more gas to air mix) and see if that cures or even helps it. If not, you can try turning it out another half turn, etc. Just keep track of how many total turns you have gone. One. One-and -a-half. Only one-half. That way you can return it to where it is now, and even turn it in past that point by half-turns to see if that cures or helps it. I don't have my VL1500 anymore, so I am trying to picture which side the clutch is on. Do you see a cable attached to a small lever anywhere on the right hand side?
+Mark Young yea it returned slow before i cleaned and bench tuned but it was worse before. i will try turning out and see what happens. i will ask my local shop about clutch.. thanks bud
early today i turned them half turn out and not a noticable difference, then tryed another half turn out and seems to be way better.. gonna take a nice long drive this Sat and make sure its good.. thanks and i'll keep you posted.
+John Wilson How high do you have the idle set, John? Just wondering if it is idling too high? I never had this issue with mine. When you had it apart, did you inspect the butyl rubber vacuum boots to make sure of no leaks?
+Mark Young my idle is low. a nice slow purr. no spit or spudder.. its sounding good now. idles down quicker. it feels more normal now.. gonna go about 100mi tomorrow and see for sure.
dont know if your answering questions but i was running to rich so if i would pull up to a 50 zone it would be rough so i turn my fuel down half turn on right an quarter turn on left to try to even them out right side plug was black black an the other side was darker but now after idles nice but throttle response on bottom end sucks but great on hi way what should i do?
First of all Jeff, those aren't fuel screws, those are air screws. By turning them in you made the mix richer. Turning them out, most of the time one turn out from bottoming out, is generally the sweet spot. Another way the fuel/air ratio is set is by the position of a clip on the needle attached to the carb piston. I would start in the middle groove of the 5 that are available. There could be other issues at play such as a leaking fuel pump diaphragm or bad needle/seat/float system.
@@contact4mwy7 oh ok well i didnt make it worse it just started harder when it was hot ill turn them back to were they were then decrease 1/4 turn hopefully that will do it right now i was using 1 to 2 liters more then any of my friends bikes 1500 shouldn't be thanks forbthe reply 😉 i will subscribe to your channel thanks for posting!
Should the pilot jets be adjusted the same number of turns when going from scratch? I have fact. settings with 1 carb 3 turns out and the other 1 1/2 turns out.
Hello Hugh, sorry for the delay in answering, but I believe they should be the same number of turns in or out for both carbs. The pilot and main jets in those carbs are already different to compensate for cooling/heat concerns, so I would go ahead and adjust them the same turns for both. Let me know what you think or find out. Thanks!
contact4mwy7 Thanks, I did that and worked great. Runs better than new.
Glad to hear it, man!
Hugh Christian question what did you end up putting g them on
Yeah, the tank is actually under the seat on this one, a 1998. Not too bad to work on though.
i rebuild my carb
but when i install it its turn only 1 cylinder after that i removed it and open the mixture by half turn and both of them working but theres A ticking sound from the front cylinder
i dont how to sync the carb even the TPS need adjustment idk how :(
I didn't have to adjust synchronize of the carbs on mine, so I don't know what that involves. What is this ticking sound, what is causing it?
i took my baffles out and went up one size on main jets now burning rich if i bottom theses jets out how many turns out do i turn them to get it right ,my fuel mileage is down to 50 miles a tank of fuel which is a 3.5 gallon tank plz help ????? wanna go more then 50 miles before refuleing thank you
bob king Bob, this is probably going to take some trial and error to adjust it to where it should be. It would be hard to say whether that is 1/4 turn out, 1/2 turn out, or more. I had replaced my jets with bigger ones, and after a while I took them out and put the factory ones back in, and shimmed the needle jets. There is a video link in the description on how to shim the needle jets. The little washers that came in the kit I bought seemed a little thick, thus making it run richer and losing gas mileage, as you are saying. So I cut out small round pieces from a soda can, drilled a hole in the middle, and made my own shims. It ran very strong after that, and my mileage only went down about 3-5 miles less per gallon after that. I sold the bike with those shims still in it. Let me know how you make out with this one.
9:02 what tha rubber hose do ?? I mean what is for ?? For drain ? Or get air?? Sorry my first old
bike
That rubber hose vents the crankcase into the intake per EPA regulations. If it's not attached to the air box you will likely notice an oily smell and the open fitting on the air box will allow dirty air into the carburetors that doesn't get cleaned by the air filter.
Do u still work on intruder 1500 s ?
I no longer have this motorcycle. Do you have a question?
U still have the same intruder?
I do not own it any longer.
this bike looks like it has never been out of the show room
Thanks for that comment, Norman. I have since traded it in, and when the salesman (who hadn't seen my bike yet) asked what kind of condition it was in, I replied "Excellent." He kinda chuckled and said "Yeah, sure." Then I brought it to him and he had that look of surprise on his face and said "You weren't kidding!" Haha. I try to take care of my stuff. Nice 6-string by the way!
Hey sir, are those the fuel screws?
Yes, they adjust the amount of fuel added, not air. One regret I had was not counting the turns going in to know the factory setting, which I would recommend doing. That way you can always return it there if wanted. Let me know how many turns if you find out. Don't screw them in tight, just until they gently bottom out and stop.
@@contact4mwy7 that was such a quick response! Thank you! I actually don't know. I don't know if you know who Gman is, but he rebuilt my carbs. He had me back them out 1/8 of a turn.
Gman? Yes, I believe I bought a jet kit with needle shims from him for my bike from him. Great guy to get help on carb work!
Awesome. If you use Facebook, there's a Facebook page of Intruder 1500 riders. It's a cool group.
Put a paper towel in the gas tank after you take the gas cap off, so you don't drop any bolts into the gas tank
Poor video, No vacuum gauges!, What was the original complaint? This is how not to adjust pilot jets! Were the pilot ports obstructed? Never use WD-40 to lube intake rubber manifolds, Eats the rubber!!!!!!!!
Mike, you have taken the time to tell us what not to do and use, so tell us how it is done properly, we want to know!
Mike ... your comment clearly shows you don't know a DAMN thing about motorcycles, carbs or anything mechanical.
have a 96 intruder vid on my channel.. that's a nice looking bike though sounds good, definately ready for a ride :)