I have a LeBlonde Regal lathe too. How wonderful to see such similarity with your setup. I just purchased an Aloris set. I was using the original tool holders that came with the lathe for some years and found them to be difficult to work with at 60-70 years old. Anyway, I did not have to mill my own T-nut. I purchased during their August 15% off sale. I had nothing to loctite. All the set screws were SAE and properly fit my hex wrenches right out of the box. I will never regret my purchase, having looked at how the Chinese support this or that on the international stage. Yes, the Aloris was much more expensive. Freedom, is however, not free.
You point at 13:30 is so well said! I look at it this way also! In a home shop if it your getting the results you need from your tools then its the right tool! A lot of guys for get home shops ar not production shops who my need "the best" ot have deep pockets or payback stuff! Believe me you could make it out off any fine grain hardwood and it would would make chips! Great discussion on the topic. Steven Columbus Michigan 🇺🇸
good unbiased review. I have bought a few chinesium tools that are plenty good enough quality for the home shop and I have bought expensive brand name tools that are garbage. Never judge a tool by where it was made or what brand it is.
I really try to not buy china unless it is used, for obvious reasons, or there is no other way around it. The last new tool I wanted was a carbide metal chop saw. They were new on the scene I always liked Makita so I went with it thinking rather japan than china right? Gets it home, looked on the tag, bam "made in china".
This type of video is good information for someone just starting out like myself. Like you say the vast range of tools and equipment can be mind boggling. And you don’t need to pay over the odds for decent quality stuff.
Good information. Good review. When I was in HS Machine Shop we had South Bends and LeBlonds. I always used a LeBlond, liked them better than the SBs. We I couldn't get a LeBlond I used and old Warner Swasey turret lathe that no one else would use. I was the only one besides the Instructor that knew how.
I initially purchased and used an import tool post for much the same reason you discussed. However as my work evolved into more precise jobs doing tight tolerance boring, internal threading and using shaped reamers using the carrageenan I found my tool post was no longer zeroing like it used too. In checking it out I found tools were not only not repeating in height but also not being held parallel to the axis of the lathe. I checked the tool post which was still square and ran an indicator along the top and side of a test bar. No issues found. In checking the locking mechanism I found it was pulling the tool holders tight at an angle and inconsistent to boot. Frustrated with the added set up time I looked into and purchased a Dorian QCTP which locks the holders in place in a different way and has a warranty that repeatability would hold tolerance not only in height but also squareness to the position of the tool post. It has cut setup time to nearly zero as my DRO allows for positional storage for each toolholder. Time is an Expensive commodity, as is meeting customer expectations and my own standards. Especially in a Two person operation.
I've been using the Phase II brand for over 10 years. No complaints except I did replace all the set screws and height adjustment screws. Always found metric set screws in general to be a poor fit for the Allen wrench. I also found the height adjustment screws too long for my taste. Aloris does makes some nice tool holders but they are not twice as good. If I was doing production, I wouldn't be using a manual lathe anyway so repeatably may not be a high priority in tool holder selection even though ours do repeat when they need to. For 99.9% of what we do (one-off tooling), Phase II is a perfect choice.
Take those set screws out and toss them in the garbage if you have not yet. I was warned when I bought one of these a couple years back and didn't switch the screws until I stripped one out in the middle of trying to finish a job. Had a hell of a time getting it back out.
subscribed because of the AvE reference haha! man i enjoy that guy's videos. im looking at buying a quick change tool holder as well... got some extra canadian copecks burning a hole in my pocket from all the overtime ive put in, AND my birthday is in a week... figured its a good time to finally treat myself to a nice tool holder and not have to stack shims on my stock tool holder any time i need to change out tooling!
In a job shop, the several hours fiddling with the Chinese knock-off would have paid for the Aloris. In the home shop the one thing you do have is time, so you can fix the faults. As others have said, the very first thing to do with one of the knock-offs it remove all the tool hold down screws and throw them in the scrap bin. Replace them with proper quality screws that have the extended blunt nose to clamp the tool without mushrooming or splitting (I was surprised to find the correct 8mm screws at True Value hardware... and they were Italian made).
@Mr Takisawa Yep, My Bostar BXA wedge type had large curled burr flaps on the ACME threads on the sliding wedges and some kind of greasy sawdust in the nooks and crannies. The sawdust is likely a tumbling media for cleanup but no one cares to use high pressure air to blow them out really good afterwards.
I am English, why dont you like me mate, also I was working for 50 years until I retired 8 years ago. And were better than metric. A good video. cheers , from Colin. England. UK. p s I am thinking about buying this kit, when I have saved enough pennies.
I’ve found that import clones of good tool holders sometimes lack a proper heat treatment. Off shore cast iron on machines is often soft. My only import purchase was Klopfer 40 position tool holders ....soft, but work. If you want a kick ass top shelf quick change , check out the Mulitifix 40 position tool post system .
Accuracy. I see that you did the indicator thing to show us how repeatable the tool height is. BUT....what about the other two axes? ie the position of the cutting tool? To my mind that is what's important. Did you do those tests? What were your findings?
Hello sir, just checked for the same exact item on our UK Amazon site the price here is $683.00, We in the UK are as usual being ripped off , by Amazon, our Government ( the higher the price we pay the more purchase tax we pay) Its hard to have a hobby here especially with having to use electricity. You know you said you have to make sense of the cost, well imagine how we feel here. I do hope its better when we are out of the E.U, then maybe the USA will be a better deal for us.. All my regards to you and yours, Colin.
Nice video thank you.would you use that post holder on a 10-22 lathe? Bolton says 1/2 is the biggest too.Is there any advantage having a holder on the bigger side ?thanks once again
Я всё время проработал токарем на заводе. Теперь мне всё интересно про металл ! Плохо, что я не знаю английского. Но на видио я понимаю о чём идёт речь. Выжу резцедержатель с быстросъёмними касетами. Я в своё время работал только с обычными резцедержателями. Сейчас я на пенсии. Только смотрю видио про всё металическое.
I'm glad it worked out for you. I hope to get a quick change of some form by the end of the month for a 13" first lathe that I am in the final stages of readying to finally use. I decided to go with a quick change not only for the faster tool change, but also because the lantern style post that I collected along the path toward getting together my lathe going is unfortunately too big for my machine. I ground it some so that it fits into the compound, but it's unable to rotate in the T slot. In time if I find a deal on an appropriate sized lantern style post, I'll likely get one, but at like $40-$60 bucks which I see them usually offered, I would just rather try going the quick change route instead of dropping the cash on a lantern and several holders only to still ultimately want a quick change anyways.
John Strange I think I know what a lantern style is. I have several but don't know why I would use one. Why would you want one? What do They do differently or better?
I had to come back and edit this. When I looked at it later it came across wrong to me. I hope you didn't get that impression from it as well (Sorry). Yes, by lantern style I mean the kind you are first describing in the video (not the 4 way rotary). Maybe I'm wrong, but far as I know there are no great advantages to still using a lantern style today, but personally I still want one of the appropriate size for my machine in my tooling arsenal for a few reasons: 1. Should a situation arise where I need the reach of a traditional Armstrong or Williams type holder. 2. Big dirty interrupted cuts that I might not want to subject an expensive quick-change post, holders or costly inserts too. 3. Just as a backup . 4. When/if the time comes to upgrade machines I could offer mine for sale with at least some tooling, but nothing that would be a major financial set back. Thanks
All valid reasons. Completeness. I get it. I think I have at least three. Next time I'm in the shop I'll look at them more closely. Assuming I don't need three and one would fit your compound rest, you can have it if you like. I'll post back. ~P
Wow! That is very generous of you. Thank you. If you have one you don't need that would fit, perhaps we can work out some kind of trade. I'll be getting an import quick change outfit in the next week or two as well. I just stepped away from my machine which I FINALLY got wired up to a VFD this afternoon and running for the first time (And first chips) since buying it last spring/summer. What an exhale of relief. :)
John Strange - I am in the process of preparing a 1340 Taiwan made ENCO. Mine came with a QC tool post but the tool holders are proprietary to the tool post. I have enough tool holders to get by but will eventually get another tool post that will be able to use many brands of holders. Gode luck with your lathe, and Happy Machining!
Thanks ...nice review. One question ...another review of the Phase II AXA was unhappy with the parting tool holder ...and that user had to buy a SHARS to satisfy his complaint about it ...what are your feelings about the parting tool holder on the Phase II?
I am new to lathes, i researched tool posts for my new lathe, designers state the ToolHolder must be the width of the top slide so the one you bought is too small for your lathe,
No, I don't think so, If you have problem with not enough force to hold the post when cutting heavily just counter-bore at the bottom of the post slightly (around the nut hole).
The soft set screws have a higher static coefficient of friction. In plain English, they grip better and probably absorb a little vibration. If the set screws are too hard, the lathe bit is more likely to move, or even slip under heavy cutting forces. The ideal solution is a set screw with a brass tap - the best of both worlds. I’ve got a Phase II tool post on order, and will check McMaster Carr to see if they sell brass tipped metric set screws.
Utility Same chapter as Guns and Butter demand curves. I bought a storage unit and found two American Trunmaster lathes at the back, but no tool holder. (and three phase) I paid more for a VFD than the entire storage unit. No tools or tool post holder and I must figure out if these things work or just very heavy scrap. I am still not sure what tool post holder to purchase on lathe is a 15 x 30 the other 13 x ?? can't remember.
With Asian QC holders, remove tool hold down screws and place in scrap bin. Purchase American or European hold-down screws and avoid cursing. I found properly made hold-down screws at True-Value hardware that were Italian made.
Nothing in the entire set is hardened and you should pull the post apart and if not knock the burs off all the sharp edges at least blow all the grinding dust out of it because nothing being hardened it doesn’t take long for that dust particles to mark up the nice ground mating surfaces and the threads that activate the wedges are normally full of crap that starts to feel crunchy when locking the tool holder
I've been in engineering all my not so short life but have no idea what an 'English' thread is. I presume you're making the common mistake of thinking anything from Britain is English. Whitworth, or United Nations (UNC/F)is what you mean. Even BSP is not English.
Hui 9697 pretty sure he means imperial vs metric. Since imperial started as the English standard, many call it English. Though England is now metric like all but a few countries, including the USA, So it is now becoming common to say US thread when using imperial vs metric as the USA is the largest user of the imperial system. Whitworth was English, his thread was the first standardised thread and became the English standard. BSP is based on it. Much of the world adopted it till it was replaced by the metric system. More confusing, I hear people calling imperial threads English or US and they are both wrong and right at the same time depending on your frame of reference.
I don't really need educating on threads types or names. You fell into the same trap, ie. there is no such thing as an English thread, the standard you refer to is a 'British' standard or Unified National and England is only a part of the British Isles. it's like calling all Americans Texans. Here in Britain we never call it an American thread and in Scotland for example we would never call it an English thread.
If You can't afford to by American tools the first time how are you going to be able to afford to buy them the second time?Their quality pays for themselves the first and only time you have to by them.
If only that were true. My last job-in an American factory-stressed numbers over quality. Big numbers makes the boss look good. Before you dress me down, that wasn't always the case. I have had jobs that I took pride in doing the best work I could. But to many manufacturing jobs are going across the pond to other countries because the workers over there don't make the wages their counterparts here in the states do. In order for a company to stay competitive they have to stay profitable. Just look around you and tell me how many American made products you have in your home, starting with the computer we are discussing this problem on. My PC isn't made here. Is yours? Its a vicious cycle. And I for one see no end to it.
Just started watching this video haven't gotten very far, I'm sure its fine but...what's with the hat with tape on it? Seems like your blocking out the name on it? If so, why not just not wear one or one with no print on it? A bit distracting. Any-who I'll finish watching now
Sorry but with machining metal and doing so with some degree of accuracy it's got zero to do with those happiness points. It comes down to how well the tool does what it was designed to do. Everything else is secondary so your not constantly readjusting for any of the tools built in inaccuracy. My first pair of Kurt clone mill vises checked out as accurate because I made a point of properly checking them on a surface plate. Problems showed up while trying to use them under even average tightening pressure that the extremely poor quality and bondo filled castings used to disguise that deflected to the point of causing inaccuracy's in the part. They were worthless because I bought them using a price first mentality. Do I have some Chinese tooling? Yes but I learned after enough wasted time and money that for work and tool holding as well as cutting tools those aren't the areas to try and pinch pennies. Measuring the tool holders repeatable vertical position has almost no measurable effect on the part diameter. Draw it out at a greatly enlarged scale to properly visualize what's happening. That vertical location if it's slightly inaccurate only moves the tool tip a small amount up or down on the part radius. The larger the part radius the less effect it has on exactly how much and where the tool tip is cutting. It's for that reason highly worn lathe bed ways can still produce fairly accurate and parallel shafts. What is important is how well the tool repeats it's position when it's changed either towards or away from the part. That's the important area that needs to be checked. That's even more important for anyone with a lathe dro capable of being programed for multiple tools and there off sets. I'm certainly not saying that Phase II is inaccurate, it may well be very good. But since it wasn't properly checked that's still a complete unknown. Yes the set screws can easily be changed out for much better, but it raises the question if the manufacturer has knowingly been using poorly made junk screws for multiple years that I know of on the very cheapest component of the tool then where else did they cut corners? If you studied economics then you obviously understand that commercial machine shops will and have to cut costs where ever they can to stay competitive. I don't know of any that use cheap tooling or cutting tools despite that being a very large saving. If the tool can't or wont do what's expected or be durable enough to last then it's costing much more than the higher cost tooling does. Looking at the issues logically and under real world working conditions changes the economics drastically. A quick change tool post and holders for the average hobbyist is in reality a convenience and saves a bit of time that's all they are. The average and even poorly made usually standard 4 position tool turret supports the tool far better and more accurately other than there repeatable positioning than even the best Aloris or Dorian make. That time saving is the only reason I still use my cheaper quick change. But an Aloris is still on my list because mine doesn't repeat as well as I need.
I have a LeBlonde Regal lathe too. How wonderful to see such similarity with your setup. I just purchased an Aloris set. I was using the original tool holders that came with the lathe for some years and found them to be difficult to work with at 60-70 years old. Anyway, I did not have to mill my own T-nut. I purchased during their August 15% off sale. I had nothing to loctite. All the set screws were SAE and properly fit my hex wrenches right out of the box. I will never regret my purchase, having looked at how the Chinese support this or that on the international stage. Yes, the Aloris was much more expensive. Freedom, is however, not free.
You point at 13:30 is so well said!
I look at it this way also! In a home shop if it your getting the results you need from your tools then its the right tool!
A lot of guys for get home shops ar not production shops who my need "the best" ot have deep pockets or payback stuff!
Believe me you could make it out off any fine grain hardwood and it would would make chips!
Great discussion on the topic.
Steven Columbus Michigan 🇺🇸
good unbiased review. I have bought a few chinesium tools that are plenty good enough quality for the home shop and I have bought expensive brand name tools that are garbage. Never judge a tool by where it was made or what brand it is.
I really try to not buy china unless it is used, for obvious reasons, or there is no other way around it. The last new tool I wanted was a carbide metal chop saw. They were new on the scene I always liked Makita so I went with it thinking rather japan than china right? Gets it home, looked on the tag, bam "made in china".
This type of video is good information for someone just starting out like myself. Like you say the vast range of tools and equipment can be mind boggling. And you don’t need to pay over the odds for decent quality stuff.
Good information. Good review. When I was in HS Machine Shop we had South Bends and LeBlonds. I always used a LeBlond, liked them better than the SBs. We I couldn't get a LeBlond I used and old Warner Swasey turret lathe that no one else would use. I was the only one besides the Instructor that knew how.
What an excellent , well thought out video. Thank you, it was very informative, and well presented.
SAMRODIAN Thank you. I appreciate the coment.
I initially purchased and used an import tool post for much the same reason you discussed. However as my work evolved into more precise jobs doing tight tolerance boring, internal threading and using shaped reamers using the carrageenan I found my tool post was no longer zeroing like it used too. In checking it out I found tools were not only not repeating in height but also not being held parallel to the axis of the lathe. I checked the tool post which was still square and ran an indicator along the top and side of a test bar. No issues found. In checking the locking mechanism I found it was pulling the tool holders tight at an angle and inconsistent to boot.
Frustrated with the added set up time I looked into and purchased a Dorian QCTP which locks the holders in place in a different way and has a warranty that repeatability would hold tolerance not only in height but also squareness to the position of the tool post.
It has cut setup time to nearly zero as my DRO allows for positional storage for each toolholder. Time is an
Expensive commodity, as is meeting customer expectations and my own standards. Especially in a Two person operation.
With the kind of precision you are working and the cost of time, I would also go with something more precise. Thanks for adding this perspective. ~P
I've been using the Phase II brand for over 10 years. No complaints except I did replace all the set screws and height adjustment screws. Always found metric set screws in general to be a poor fit for the Allen wrench. I also found the height adjustment screws too long for my taste. Aloris does makes some nice tool holders but they are not twice as good. If I was doing production, I wouldn't be using a manual lathe anyway so repeatably may not be a high priority in tool holder selection even though ours do repeat when they need to. For 99.9% of what we do (one-off tooling), Phase II is a perfect choice.
Take those set screws out and toss them in the garbage if you have not yet. I was warned when I bought one of these a couple years back and didn't switch the screws until I stripped one out in the middle of trying to finish a job. Had a hell of a time getting it back out.
subscribed because of the AvE reference haha! man i enjoy that guy's videos. im looking at buying a quick change tool holder as well... got some extra canadian copecks burning a hole in my pocket from all the overtime ive put in, AND my birthday is in a week... figured its a good time to finally treat myself to a nice tool holder and not have to stack shims on my stock tool holder any time i need to change out tooling!
Thanks, Just about to pull the trigger. You helped me make up my mind.
In a job shop, the several hours fiddling with the Chinese knock-off would have paid for the Aloris. In the home shop the one thing you do have is time, so you can fix the faults.
As others have said, the very first thing to do with one of the knock-offs it remove all the tool hold down screws and throw them in the scrap bin. Replace them with proper quality screws that have the extended blunt nose to clamp the tool without mushrooming or splitting (I was surprised to find the correct 8mm screws at True Value hardware... and they were Italian made).
Good video use this tool every day you seem to pick out the good and the bad.
Always take apart the tool post, clean and lube them for best performance. Most are full of grit and have inadequate lubrication if any.
@Mr Takisawa Yep, My Bostar BXA wedge type had large curled burr flaps on the ACME threads on the sliding wedges and some kind of greasy sawdust in the nooks and crannies. The sawdust is likely a tumbling media for cleanup but no one cares to use high pressure air to blow them out really good afterwards.
I bought the same set years ago.Not bad for the money.
I am English, why dont you like me mate, also I was working for 50 years until I retired 8 years ago. And were better than metric. A good video.
cheers , from Colin. England. UK. p s I am thinking about buying this kit, when I have saved enough pennies.
Cents you burk, it's all metric over there now.....pennies went out in the 70's.
@@gangleweed What a nice loud mouth, ganglebrain.
I’ve found that import clones of good tool holders sometimes lack a proper heat treatment. Off shore cast iron on machines is often soft. My only import purchase was Klopfer 40 position tool holders ....soft, but work. If you want a kick ass top shelf quick change , check out the Mulitifix 40 position tool post system .
Accuracy. I see that you did the indicator thing to show us how repeatable the tool height is. BUT....what about the other two axes? ie the position of the cutting tool? To my mind that is what's important. Did you do those tests? What were your findings?
Hello sir, just checked for the same exact item on our UK Amazon site the price here is $683.00, We in the UK are as usual being ripped off , by Amazon, our Government ( the higher the price we pay the more purchase tax we pay) Its hard to have a hobby here especially with having to use electricity. You know you said you have to make sense of the cost, well imagine how we feel here. I do hope its better when we are out of the E.U, then maybe the USA will be a better deal for us.. All my regards to you and yours, Colin.
Nice video thank you.would you use that post holder on a 10-22 lathe? Bolton says 1/2 is the biggest too.Is there any advantage having a holder on the bigger side ?thanks once again
Great video.
To bad most cheap posts are piston type which has a much lower repeatability compared to a wedge style post.
Have you heard anything about the the tool post that fits the atlas 618 lathe from little machine shop? I am thinking about getting one.
Я всё время проработал токарем на заводе. Теперь мне всё интересно про металл ! Плохо, что я не знаю английского. Но на видио я понимаю о чём идёт речь. Выжу резцедержатель с быстросъёмними касетами. Я в своё время работал только с обычными резцедержателями. Сейчас я на пенсии. Только смотрю видио про всё металическое.
Good video and good points on "economic happiness points" I had not heard that before LOL.
I'm glad it worked out for you. I hope to get a quick change of some form by the end of the month for a 13" first lathe that I am in the final stages of readying to finally use. I decided to go with a quick change not only for the faster tool change, but also because the lantern style post that I collected along the path toward getting together my lathe going is unfortunately too big for my machine. I ground it some so that it fits into the compound, but it's unable to rotate in the T slot. In time if I find a deal on an appropriate sized lantern style post, I'll likely get one, but at like $40-$60 bucks which I see them usually offered, I would just rather try going the quick change route instead of dropping the cash on a lantern and several holders only to still ultimately want a quick change anyways.
John Strange I think I know what a lantern style is. I have several but don't know why I would use one. Why would you want one? What do They do differently or better?
I had to come back and edit this. When I looked at it later it came across wrong to me. I hope you didn't get that impression from it as well (Sorry). Yes, by lantern style I mean the kind you are first describing in the video (not the 4 way rotary). Maybe I'm wrong, but far as I know there are no great advantages to still using a lantern style today, but personally I still want one of the appropriate size for my machine in my tooling arsenal for a few reasons: 1. Should a situation arise where I need the reach of a traditional Armstrong or Williams type holder. 2. Big dirty interrupted cuts that I might not want to subject an expensive quick-change post, holders or costly inserts too. 3. Just as a backup . 4. When/if the time comes to upgrade machines I could offer mine for sale with at least some tooling, but nothing that would be a major financial set back. Thanks
All valid reasons. Completeness. I get it. I think I have at least three. Next time I'm in the shop I'll look at them more closely. Assuming I don't need three and one would fit your compound rest, you can have it if you like. I'll post back. ~P
Wow! That is very generous of you. Thank you. If you have one you don't need that would fit, perhaps we can work out some kind of trade. I'll be getting an import quick change outfit in the next week or two as well. I just stepped away from my machine which I FINALLY got wired up to a VFD this afternoon and running for the first time (And first chips) since buying it last spring/summer. What an exhale of relief. :)
John Strange - I am in the process of preparing a 1340 Taiwan made ENCO. Mine came with a QC tool post but the tool holders are proprietary to the tool post. I have enough tool holders to get by but will eventually get another tool post that will be able to use many brands of holders. Gode luck with your lathe, and Happy Machining!
Thanks ...nice review. One question ...another review of the Phase II AXA was unhappy with the parting tool holder ...and that user had to buy a SHARS to satisfy his complaint about it ...what are your feelings about the parting tool holder on the Phase II?
Frets Nirvana I have no complaints with that holder. I've used it several times with no issue. I still think the purchase was the right choice for me.
Thanks, just what I was looking for..
Glad I could help
I am new to lathes, i researched tool posts for my new lathe, designers state the ToolHolder must be the width of the top slide so the one you bought is too small for your lathe,
No, I don't think so, If you have problem with not enough force to hold the post when cutting heavily just counter-bore at the bottom of the post slightly (around the nut hole).
Great job.
Im just starting out again . from sone 40 years ago. lots has changed, can you post the link to post? thanks
the
Thank you for the good information
Is there a horse in the garage? What is that sound I hear?
Thomas D Harrell At what time? I'm curiouse what you are hearing.
some kind of repeating reverb sound. Could be the cell phone effecting the mic.
@@sbirdranch 14:39 & 15:36 amongst others early on. Doesn't bother me, but I was curious what it was too. Thanks for the review.
The soft set screws have a higher static coefficient of friction. In plain English, they grip better and probably absorb a little vibration. If the set screws are too hard, the lathe bit is more likely to move, or even slip under heavy cutting forces. The ideal solution is a set screw with a brass tap - the best of both worlds. I’ve got a Phase II tool post on order, and will check McMaster Carr to see if they sell brass tipped metric set screws.
The handles are very easy to break if you don't get it fully tightened.
Utility Same chapter as Guns and Butter demand curves. I bought a storage unit and found two American Trunmaster lathes at the back, but no tool holder. (and three phase) I paid more for a VFD than the entire storage unit. No tools or tool post holder and I must figure out if these things work or just very heavy scrap. I am still not sure what tool post holder to purchase on lathe is a 15 x 30 the other 13 x ?? can't remember.
Thank you for sharing.
The import is fine for my Atlas 12 in lathe. An Aloris isn't going to make me a better machinist.
With Asian QC holders, remove tool hold down screws and place in scrap bin. Purchase American or European hold-down screws and avoid cursing.
I found properly made hold-down screws at True-Value hardware that were Italian made.
Could it be that they cut the thread at the tool holder before hardening during which twist of female thread occur.
it's legal to burn wood there?
Is there a place on earth where it is illegal?
very helpful. Thanks.
Nothing in the entire set is hardened and you should pull the post apart and if not knock the burs off all the sharp edges at least blow all the grinding dust out of it because nothing being hardened it doesn’t take long for that dust particles to mark up the nice ground mating surfaces and the threads that activate the wedges are normally full of crap that starts to feel crunchy when locking the tool holder
nice rationalization for the import. yay import! Seems like you would have used the damn thing before making a video review.
What does American Made mean to you? As a vet It means a lot to me!
Wow...no lubrication while your milling? I just use changed old car oil.
Make sure you wear gloves as used engine oil is not healthy to get on your hands and skin.
@@oppanheimer Or breath. It is a known carcinogen.
I am chinese, and we export the products like quick change tool post , it's really popular.
Choose our company's products, you 'd like that
4.5 mm hex maybe?
Rivers Company hadn't considered that. I've never had a fractional metric Allen key. I'll look closer.
@@sbirdranch the chinese set screw dude had a worn tool. whack an expendable allan key in and your good.
Grub screws!
A set screw is something else
Threads are not English they are Imperial!
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Can't imagine Hornady would mind you wearing their hat... But what would UA-cam think... Hmm.
Phase II QCTPs suck. You chose the wrong Chinese import. They vary in quality. You should have gotten the Chinese Hess brand.
I've been in engineering all my not so short life but have no idea what an 'English' thread is. I presume you're making the common mistake of thinking anything from Britain is English.
Whitworth, or United Nations (UNC/F)is what you mean. Even BSP is not English.
Hui 9697 pretty sure he means imperial vs metric. Since imperial started as the English standard, many call it English. Though England is now metric like all but a few countries, including the USA, So it is now becoming common to say US thread when using imperial vs metric as the USA is the largest user of the imperial system.
Whitworth was English, his thread was the first standardised thread and became the English standard. BSP is based on it. Much of the world adopted it till it was replaced by the metric system.
More confusing, I hear people calling imperial threads English or US and they are both wrong and right at the same time depending on your frame of reference.
I don't really need educating on threads types or names. You fell into the same trap, ie. there is no such thing as an English thread, the standard you refer to is a 'British' standard or Unified National and England is only a part of the British Isles. it's like calling all Americans Texans.
Here in Britain we never call it an American thread and in Scotland for example we would never call it an English thread.
12:02 Glad to hear you have no idea what you are talking aboot.
Using an air gun on chips?!?! 😱
Nice vdo
OK, gracias por sus videos, thanks for your videos
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J.M. Castilla your welcome.
If You can't afford to by American tools the first time how are you going to be able to afford to buy them the second time?Their quality pays for themselves the first and only time you have to by them.
If only that were true. My last job-in an American factory-stressed numbers over quality. Big numbers makes the boss look good. Before you dress me down, that wasn't always the case. I have had jobs that I took pride in doing the best work I could. But to many manufacturing jobs are going across the pond to other countries because the workers over there don't make the wages their counterparts here in the states do. In order for a company to stay competitive they have to stay profitable. Just look around you and tell me how many American made products you have in your home, starting with the computer we are discussing this problem on. My PC isn't made here. Is yours? Its a vicious cycle. And I for one see no end to it.
Just started watching this video haven't gotten very far, I'm sure its fine but...what's with the hat with tape on it? Seems like your blocking out the name on it? If so, why not just not wear one or one with no print on it? A bit distracting. Any-who I'll finish watching now
Ever heard of soft jaws
For $300 you could find a used Aloris and would have been better than new Chinese.
Oops there goes a another like :)
Sorry but with machining metal and doing so with some degree of accuracy it's got zero to do with those happiness points. It comes down to how well the tool does what it was designed to do. Everything else is secondary so your not constantly readjusting for any of the tools built in inaccuracy. My first pair of Kurt clone mill vises checked out as accurate because I made a point of properly checking them on a surface plate. Problems showed up while trying to use them under even average tightening pressure that the extremely poor quality and bondo filled castings used to disguise that deflected to the point of causing inaccuracy's in the part. They were worthless because I bought them using a price first mentality. Do I have some Chinese tooling? Yes but I learned after enough wasted time and money that for work and tool holding as well as cutting tools those aren't the areas to try and pinch pennies.
Measuring the tool holders repeatable vertical position has almost no measurable effect on the part diameter. Draw it out at a greatly enlarged scale to properly visualize what's happening. That vertical location if it's slightly inaccurate only moves the tool tip a small amount up or down on the part radius. The larger the part radius the less effect it has on exactly how much and where the tool tip is cutting. It's for that reason highly worn lathe bed ways can still produce fairly accurate and parallel shafts. What is important is how well the tool repeats it's position when it's changed either towards or away from the part. That's the important area that needs to be checked. That's even more important for anyone with a lathe dro capable of being programed for multiple tools and there off sets. I'm certainly not saying that Phase II is inaccurate, it may well be very good. But since it wasn't properly checked that's still a complete unknown.
Yes the set screws can easily be changed out for much better, but it raises the question if the manufacturer has knowingly been using poorly made junk screws for multiple years that I know of on the very cheapest component of the tool then where else did they cut corners? If you studied economics then you obviously understand that commercial machine shops will and have to cut costs where ever they can to stay competitive. I don't know of any that use cheap tooling or cutting tools despite that being a very large saving. If the tool can't or wont do what's expected or be durable enough to last then it's costing much more than the higher cost tooling does. Looking at the issues logically and under real world working conditions changes the economics drastically. A quick change tool post and holders for the average hobbyist is in reality a convenience and saves a bit of time that's all they are. The average and even poorly made usually standard 4 position tool turret supports the tool far better and more accurately other than there repeatable positioning than even the best Aloris or Dorian make. That time saving is the only reason I still use my cheaper quick change. But an Aloris is still on my list because mine doesn't repeat as well as I need.
Lol disparaging.