I just picked up a 95 b3000 for $200. The owner thought the heater core replacement was too expensive to fix at $800. I just finished with your help. Great job. Just a note. I realized I didn't have to remove the fender well until it was completely out. This truck hadn't been driven for a couple of years because of this problem. The old core was leaking like a siv. A new battery, heater core and it's an awesome truck.
I have a 1994 Mazda B4000. I had to replace the heater core several years ago. First I took it to a shop and he was telling me what a big job it was. He said the dash has to come out and it's just a lot of work. Well, I went to auto zone and bought the replacement heater core. The guy printed out the instructions for me. All I had to do was to pull out the glove box and disconnect a couple of hoses. I can tell you that it only took me about 20 minutes to do it. That's the honest truth. It was truly simple.
I know this is a old video but if anyone’s wondering the two bolts on the driver side that he doesn’t directly point out are underneath the fuse box panel, took me a while to find them so I figured I’d Share
Great video. Just finished replacing mine and I have a few things that might help someone else. 1. If you have a manual transmission, go ahead and remove the shifter. It will give you a little extra room. 2. Unbolt the plastic radiator overflow/ wiper fluid tank and move it out of the way. 3. Remove the under hood computer as shown in the video. After you pull the dash back you can see a aluminum plate, with a ground, that sits under the computer. Remove this plate. It kept hanging up on my heater box making it harder to remove. 4. Remove the rubber line and the hard plastic lines going to the windshield washer sprayers. They have a plastic plug that attaches to the blower box. Just like in the video I broke one of the hard lines. Save yourself the headache.
Just changed the heater core yesterday. Thanks for the video it sure helped. A friend happened to show up at the right time for the actual core replacement. I pried he pulled and we changed it out. Took about 3 hours. Dewatlt cordless 3/8" impact sure helped. 1995 Mazda B3000.
So I refer to the Haynes manuals for a lot of repairs on my vehicles and they want you to take the whole dash apart like he's talking about the other guy doing...I knew that it sounded like waaay too much work so that's how I ended up here and this video was PERFECT...thanks for the info🤙
FYI, this procedure is for 1995-2012 Ford Rangers. 1984-1994 Rangers have a different dash design that does not require dashboard removal to replace the heater core.
My truck blows heat/AC only on the passenger side, so I'm thinking of pulling the dash to see what's stopping up the system. (Heat coil flushed and now working fine). This is the only video that gives me a clue how to do that. Thanks for posting it.
Thank you for the video. I'm trying to repaint my dash and this helps a lot. I was getting worried I would have dismantle a lot more or there were some hidden bolts. But your video showed me exactly where to pull them out of.
Helpful. The one thing I needed help with was the metal plate that is on the cabin side of the firewall just behind the ECM. It won't let the upper lip of the heater core cover slide out. I notice you had to take the metal plate off but didn't show how. Anyway, very helpful.
it never fails, big jobs that takes a while and things start to need to be replaced during the winter time. it can't be replaced in the summer time nooooooo it wants you to freeze your finger nails off lol.
Thank you for the video, I watched the video fortunately not because I have to replace my heater core right at this moment. But the antenna cable I was trying to tape the new antenna cable to it and it came off, so there’s nothing no way to pull it through now, so I have to take the dash part, anyway thank you very much. Very useful video. I appreciate you.
I don't need to replace my heater core but I do want to remove my dash so this helped tremendously gonna do a custom dash that's set back a bit more to get the most room out if the cab possible
This video is really helpful. I've done this job once before a few years back and did alot more it seemed. Gotta do it again because the ebay one I bought is leaking again. Got a motorcraft part this time around. This procedure also applies to 95-01 Explorers as mine is a 2000 5.0. BTW, how does the airbag cover come off?
Used this to do a 2000 Mazda b2500 only differences is my heater core cover had 4 bolts instead of 3 like the video and removing the shifter trim was a necessity for me as the heater core housing could t come out enough for me to remove the heater core if the shifter trim was in place. Thanks for the video it was a huge help
For what it's worth... I just did my 1990 Ranger and it requires 4 steps. (1) Pull the two heater lines. (2) Remove the four retainer clips on the kick plate. (3) Remove the four 8mm screws under the heater box (in the cab). (4) Slide the old heater core back (away from engine) and then it drops down. Ten minutes!
lets see..you took about five thousand bolts out but you wouldn't take just one more so we could see the freakin holy grail.enjoyed vid otherwise.tx for makin it..
Make sure you didn’t trip the fuel shut off switch found in the passenger side floor board at the top of the carpet , And then double check to make sure you reconnected every connector including computer if you removed and all battery terminals
What tool did you use to get that center bolt out of the center outside of the firewall. My ratchets do not get enough clearance. What size did you say the bolt is? Also I have a 2000 Explorer. Do you know if the hidden bolt to the heater box is under my fender well or on the inside of the dash?
I either used my snap on ratchet wrench or my long handle ratchet with the deep socket I believe it was either 10 or 13 but don’t remember due to the age of the video.
@@RicksRides1 there is not enough room to get my ratchet in there. there is a small protrusion I don't know if its a hard line or wire what but i don't want to force it. whatever it is its connected to the motor
The vaccuum lines that select different heat area choices can get clogged with vapor & fail to switch from , say, floor heat to up high or defrost windshield . My ranger had the lines stop doing their jobs during certain foggy, or frosty days , I would tap & bang the lines , thinking I was shaking something loose,but I think they would just work , then not work, depending on humidity , temperature, ect . I suspect moisture getting into those lines over time . I'm in w.Canada , cold cold winters , not line warm seasons
Thanks so much. That’s literally all I needed. But I’m just having problems putting the dashboard back on there. I’m doing it by myself and can’t seem to get the steering wheel column inside the whole
@@theleader5439 it’s splined and will only go on one way I believe take it back off make sure the bolt is all the way out or it won’t let it go all the way in or out... check everything out and retry.
When you reattached your steering shaft at that U joint did you have trouble getting it far enough in? I can't get the bolt in and the notch is outside the ujoint.
jesus armendariz yes in the beginning of the video you see it under the hood which is the other end and it connects to a vacuum canister which connects to the vacuum solenoids by the coil packs.
Harrison Paul smoke or steam, if smoke it sounds electrical and u need to inspect where it’s coming from. If steam then most likely ur heater core, and it will probably need to be replaced.
What a nightmare I have 2003 xlt 2.3L automatic truck I don't suspect it is leaking bad but I keep smelling ainteefreez when ever I shut truck off I smell it pretty good. And if I turn defrost on early in morning it totally fogs windshield for few seconds I think it's in the early stages of going bad or worse I really hate messing with the dash its probably worth 800 to me let shop do it so I can have the warranty. I thought it was lot easier than what you showed
Honestly it’s not that bad, just start it early on your day off, take your time not to damage anything since these trucks are getting older and the parts are getting harder to find.
Did this job on a Pinto once... A lot easier than this is. Just reached under the dash and removed a few clips and wolah! All done. I do not look forward to doing this on my truck.
How come you didn't go into detail about taking the airbag out(which can be quite dangerous for a DIY'er,) if you don't know what your doing? Also taking the radio out? And showing how to take disconnect the steering column? I am just thinking these would be helpful tidbits for DIY'ers.
C.J. Wahler my truck wasn't equipped with an airbag on my truck, so that's the reason I didn't go into detail, sorry for that. Also this video was made for those who are already familiar with car not for beginners, the video is more a run down/ speedy way to move others along which other seem to be thankful for in all the other comments. But please leave a link and I'll watch ur video so I can make better videos in the future.😉
No problem. I found your video helpful. I was just asking because some people aren't aware that you should disconnect your battery and let the capacitors charge down before you have to take your airbag out. Or how to take the radio out.
hi man thanks for this video it help me alot but im having problem locating the cabin air filter can you help me located...i have a 02 Ford ranger 3.0L...thanks again!
its behind the glove box, squeeze the side tabs in to lower the glove box door. www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-install-cabin-air-filter-pictures.328559/
30 Minutes my eye! I am a second generation mechanic/fabricator by trade. Your video was a little helpful but man! You skipped a bunch. This project has taken way more time then expected. Very dissatisfied with your video
chuck autry it took me about 4 hours and I wasn't in a hurry and I removed more than I needed too... it may take some a little longer if there less mechanically inclined, and the video is only there to help u along the way to incase u miss something or need help finding the steps to remove things... sorry the video didn't help u. I'll watch ur when u post it for a learning experience.
I just picked up a 95 b3000 for $200. The owner thought the heater core replacement was too expensive to fix at $800. I just finished with your help. Great job. Just a note. I realized I didn't have to remove the fender well until it was completely out. This truck hadn't been driven for a couple of years because of this problem. The old core was leaking like a siv. A new battery, heater core and it's an awesome truck.
I have a 1994 Mazda B4000. I had to replace the heater core several years ago. First I took it to a shop and he was telling me what a big job it was. He said the dash has to come out and it's just a lot of work. Well, I went to auto zone and bought the replacement heater core. The guy printed out the instructions for me. All I had to do was to pull out the glove box and disconnect a couple of hoses. I can tell you that it only took me about 20 minutes to do it. That's the honest truth. It was truly simple.
1994 mazda b4000-I didn't see your comment till after I pulled off the glove box 😭
I know this is a old video but if anyone’s wondering the two bolts on the driver side that he doesn’t directly point out are underneath the fuse box panel, took me a while to find them so I figured I’d Share
To the left of the fuse panel on mine and the one in this video
Great video.
Just finished replacing mine and I have a few things that might help someone else.
1. If you have a manual transmission, go ahead and remove the shifter. It will give you a little extra room.
2. Unbolt the plastic radiator overflow/ wiper fluid tank and move it out of the way.
3. Remove the under hood computer as shown in the video. After you pull the dash back you can see a aluminum plate, with a ground, that sits under the computer. Remove this plate. It kept hanging up on my heater box making it harder to remove.
4. Remove the rubber line and the hard plastic lines going to the windshield washer sprayers. They have a plastic plug that attaches to the blower box. Just like in the video I broke one of the hard lines. Save yourself the headache.
🫵🏻👍🏻 maybe you should have made the video instead of this undetailed moron.
Just changed the heater core yesterday. Thanks for the video it sure helped. A friend happened to show up at the right time for the actual core replacement. I pried he pulled and we changed it out. Took about 3 hours. Dewatlt cordless 3/8" impact sure helped. 1995 Mazda B3000.
So I refer to the Haynes manuals for a lot of repairs on my vehicles and they want you to take the whole dash apart like he's talking about the other guy doing...I knew that it sounded like waaay too much work so that's how I ended up here and this video was PERFECT...thanks for the info🤙
FYI, this procedure is for 1995-2012 Ford Rangers. 1984-1994 Rangers have a different dash design that does not require dashboard removal to replace the heater core.
Andy thats gggrrreeeaaattt
Have to change my core so thanks for the video. Mine is a 2000 model. I worked on turbojet engines in the Navy so this should be cake. ;)
After watching your video. I spent maybe a hour getting the dash out, very useful & time saving.
My truck blows heat/AC only on the passenger side, so I'm thinking of pulling the dash to see what's stopping up the system. (Heat coil flushed and now working fine). This is the only video that gives me a clue how to do that. Thanks for posting it.
Thank you for the video. I'm trying to repaint my dash and this helps a lot. I was getting worried I would have dismantle a lot more or there were some hidden bolts. But your video showed me exactly where to pull them out of.
Anthony Tackett no prob man, I’m glad my video could help.
Helpful. The one thing I needed help with was the metal plate that is on the cabin side of the firewall just behind the ECM. It won't let the upper lip of the heater core cover slide out. I notice you had to take the metal plate off but didn't show how. Anyway, very helpful.
Thank you so much for this video. Full replacement in under 5 hours is well under par for this job. Very well done!
it never fails, big jobs that takes a while and things start to need to be replaced during the winter time. it can't be replaced in the summer time nooooooo it wants you to freeze your finger nails off lol.
2 words. Heated garage.
You speak the truth
@@112428 lol this is my other channel funny I came across this 3 years later. Be nice if I had a garage. Lol
Thank you for the video, I watched the video fortunately not because I have to replace my heater core right at this moment. But the antenna cable I was trying to tape the new antenna cable to it and it came off, so there’s nothing no way to pull it through now, so I have to take the dash part, anyway thank you very much. Very useful video. I appreciate you.
Well I’m glad my video will be able to help and guide u through this process, hopefully it all goes smooth for you.
I don't need to replace my heater core but I do want to remove my dash so this helped tremendously gonna do a custom dash that's set back a bit more to get the most room out if the cab possible
Excellent video, did mine , 2008 a little different, didn't disconnect steering , did have to take the plastic change holder out , took me 3 hours
Dennis Dethloff thanks for watching and I’m glad my video could help u out...
This video is really helpful. I've done this job once before a few years back and did alot more it seemed. Gotta do it again because the ebay one I bought is leaking again. Got a motorcraft part this time around. This procedure also applies to 95-01 Explorers as mine is a 2000 5.0. BTW, how does the airbag cover come off?
Used this to do a 2000 Mazda b2500 only differences is my heater core cover had 4 bolts instead of 3 like the video and removing the shifter trim was a necessity for me as the heater core housing could t come out enough for me to remove the heater core if the shifter trim was in place. Thanks for the video it was a huge help
koloy999 no problem, I’m glad it help u out and saved u some money.
For what it's worth... I just did my 1990 Ranger and it requires 4 steps. (1) Pull the two heater lines. (2) Remove the four retainer clips on the kick plate. (3) Remove the four 8mm screws under the heater box (in the cab). (4) Slide the old heater core back (away from engine) and then it drops down. Ten minutes!
replacing mine today. will be asking a couple questions. 1996 ford ranger xl 2 wheel drive no ac no, power steering. thanx for the help. I subscribed.
This video is badass bro ty. I was done in 3 hours ty again
Chris Nappi I'm glad u enjoyed my video and it was able to help u. Thanks for watching.
lets see..you took about five thousand bolts out but you wouldn't take just one more so we could see the freakin holy grail.enjoyed vid otherwise.tx for makin it..
No doubt, how the core sits in that box is an enigma. Not looking forward to this repair but I have a bypass U-hose kit just in case.
How’d you fix the hard line I had the same issue happen when I did mine.not too sure where to find the line
You can buy all the hard lines and repair parts from Autozone or O’reilly
Bolts behind it are there is a additional nut on the thread that has to be removed that to get the heater core to come farther out
Took me a while to figure it out thought it was worth pointing out but great video
Great illustration !
Does That Mean Your Heater Core No Good When It Starts Leaking Coolant To Your Carpet On Passenger Side
99% of the time that’s what it is.
@@RicksRides1 Got It Got To Start Learning Mechanical Problems. Thanks For Your Response.
I did all of this and now my truck won't start, is there a ground or something that's in the dash that I could have unscrewed?
Make sure you didn’t trip the fuel shut off switch found in the passenger side floor board at the top of the carpet , And then double check to make sure you reconnected every connector including computer if you removed and all battery terminals
Ok so where is the bottom 4th nut to pull evap core back. I got the top 3 but it still isn't pulling back.
What tool did you use to get that center bolt out of the center outside of the firewall. My ratchets do not get enough clearance. What size did you say the bolt is? Also I have a 2000 Explorer. Do you know if the hidden bolt to the heater box is under my fender well or on the inside of the dash?
I either used my snap on ratchet wrench or my long handle ratchet with the deep socket I believe it was either 10 or 13 but don’t remember due to the age of the video.
@@RicksRides1 there is not enough room to get my ratchet in there. there is a small protrusion
I don't know if its a hard line or wire what but i don't want to force it. whatever it is its connected to the motor
@@songboat hmm you can send me pics on my Instagram @carsrdalife and I can help u a little more
@@RicksRides1 I will attempt to do that tomorrow, thanks so much.
@@RicksRides1 I don't have instagram. how about an email?
So question my 99 ranger is blowing out air but it’s only cold air when I turn the heat on Max ? So what does that mean ? Any thoughts ?
I could look at the heater control valve first then check all vacuum line, especially near the heater control valve
The vaccuum lines that select different heat area choices can get clogged with vapor & fail to switch from , say, floor heat to up high or defrost windshield . My ranger had the lines stop doing their jobs during certain foggy, or frosty days , I would tap & bang the lines , thinking I was shaking something loose,but I think they would just work , then not work, depending on humidity , temperature, ect . I suspect moisture getting into those lines over time . I'm in w.Canada , cold cold winters , not line warm seasons
Very helpful video. You are awesome! Thank you!
How did you get the bolt for the steering wheel column out? Did you a power tool?
I used a long handle ratchet. 3/8 ratchet, nothing special
Thanks so much. That’s literally all I needed. But I’m just having problems putting the dashboard back on there. I’m doing it by myself and can’t seem to get the steering wheel column inside the whole
@@theleader5439 it’s splined and will only go on one way I believe take it back off make sure the bolt is all the way out or it won’t let it go all the way in or out... check everything out and retry.
When you reattached your steering shaft at that U joint did you have trouble getting it far enough in? I can't get the bolt in and the notch is outside the ujoint.
You have to take bolt all the way out and slide it down to where the bolt goes through the center grove in the shaft.
Thanks! And thanks for the video, it's so helpful to know what you're getting into before you pull it apart.
Hey that gray vacuum line (45 seconds) is it connected to something because mines ripped
jesus armendariz yes in the beginning of the video you see it under the hood which is the other end and it connects to a vacuum canister which connects to the vacuum solenoids by the coil packs.
I had burning smoke coming from my vent when I turned my heater on, does that mean I need to replace my heater core?
Harrison Paul smoke or steam, if smoke it sounds electrical and u need to inspect where it’s coming from. If steam then most likely ur heater core, and it will probably need to be replaced.
thanks man, this was a big help!
rasman314 no problem glad I could help. 👍🏽
Do I have to drain the coolant??
Yes or just from the heater core, pull the hoses off and if u have an air compressor put a little pressure to empty
thanks big help
Did you need to discharge your A/C?
masospaghetti no need to mess with any of the A/C
Awesome video man
Nick thanks man.
What a nightmare I have 2003 xlt 2.3L automatic truck I don't suspect it is leaking bad but I keep smelling ainteefreez when ever I shut truck off I smell it pretty good. And if I turn defrost on early in morning it totally fogs windshield for few seconds I think it's in the early stages of going bad or worse I really hate messing with the dash its probably worth 800 to me let shop do it so I can have the warranty. I thought it was lot easier than what you showed
Honestly it’s not that bad, just start it early on your day off, take your time not to damage anything since these trucks are getting older and the parts are getting harder to find.
Wait why do u have bricks in a blanket on your seat again?
Tyler W to hold up the dash, so it don’t flip over and pull in the wiring harness that go to the dash...
did you do all this by yourself?
JPablo Cruz yes, I did it all by myself.
I have a 2002 , I wonder if it is the same.
Thanks
JPablo Cruz I'm sure
Yep that's a ranger all right to close the door you got to give it the old double slam
Did this job on a Pinto once... A lot easier than this is. Just reached under the dash and removed a few clips and wolah! All done.
I do not look forward to doing this on my truck.
It’s easier then it looks, you’ll be ok.
How come you didn't go into detail about taking the airbag out(which can be quite dangerous for a DIY'er,) if you don't know what your doing? Also taking the radio out? And showing how to take disconnect the steering column? I am just thinking these would be helpful tidbits for DIY'ers.
C.J. Wahler my truck wasn't equipped with an airbag on my truck, so that's the reason I didn't go into detail, sorry for that. Also this video was made for those who are already familiar with car not for beginners, the video is more a run down/ speedy way to move others along which other seem to be thankful for in all the other comments. But please leave a link and I'll watch ur video so I can make better videos in the future.😉
No problem. I found your video helpful. I was just asking because some people aren't aware that you should disconnect your battery and let the capacitors charge down before you have to take your airbag out. Or how to take the radio out.
Guys is this the same for a 2008 Ranger 3.0L RWD. I am gonna attempt this myself. I think Any tips??
I'm not a100% but I'm pretty sure it's the same.
hi man thanks for this video it help me alot but im having problem locating the cabin air filter can you help me located...i have a 02 Ford ranger 3.0L...thanks again!
its behind the glove box, squeeze the side tabs in to lower the glove box door.
www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-install-cabin-air-filter-pictures.328559/
I've got a busted blend door. 98 ranger. Sucks this design. Plastic parts that easily break. Why on earth can't THEY make it easier?
But why does it run like that
Show how you took off the dash that would help
I showed where all the screws and bolt holding it on, once you remove them it comes right off.
Thanks food!
Jesus! I'm gonna try Thoroflush!
It’s really easy, and if it’s leaking already a flush won’t stop a leak...
These Videos are all. Helpful, but my Project has taken me 6 Days. To (long) in can't drive my Truck
Why is it taking u so long, bad weather?
That and I don't have a Garage, almost every screw and bolt, are in tight areas and I don't have enough enough space yet to Pull the old Heater Core.
@@jeremyparker6212 yea it’s definitely a process, just take ur time and watch the video and don’t break anything extra like I did... lol
I just made it 666 likes nice
You ever consider showing the work, rather than just telling people what you already did?
Jason Starr it would make for a much longer video and no one to hold camera for me.
How about some up date videos
I was told $1600 at Tire Service
an if it ain't cold it's raining or both.
30 Minutes my eye! I am a second generation mechanic/fabricator by trade. Your video was a little helpful but man! You skipped a bunch. This project has taken way more time then expected. Very dissatisfied with your video
very misleading shortcut !!! this is at best a 6 hour job!! prove me wrong!! this video shows the after the fact ! no step by step!! useless
chuck autry it took me about 4 hours and I wasn't in a hurry and I removed more than I needed too... it may take some a little longer if there less mechanically inclined, and the video is only there to help u along the way to incase u miss something or need help finding the steps to remove things... sorry the video didn't help u. I'll watch ur when u post it for a learning experience.
actually i am an ase certified tech and using a very similar method to this video i had it done in an hour and a half