This was a life saver!!! My printer kept failing during heat up, or worse, when it was in the middle of printing! Now, it's holding temp perfectly! Thank you!!!
Great to hear! There's a lot of these small calibrations that can make or break a print and the overall printing experience. Happy to have helped out! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
I know how overwhelming getting into 3d printing can be, so I try and make my videos easy to absorb and not filled with a bunch of technical lingo. Thank you for taking time out of your day to let me know it's helping!
Thanks for the video. Worked out great once I figured out how to get the printer to talk to the computer. For anyone struggling, I installed the ch340 drivers but it still wouldn't connect. Messed with it for several hours before trying a different cable and then it worked. The cable I had would detect an "unknown device" so I thought it was a data cable but would refuse to connect. Lesson learned was make sure you have a data micro USB cable. Not sure how to tell one from the other but it definitely matters.
Thanks for watching and extra thanks for dropping the knowledge. I try and cover as many issues that may come up as I can, but it's important comments like yours that help round out any and all of the solutions. Much appreciated!
FYI- You can do this from the printer control with the latest Alex/JyersUI firmware. You can specify hot end, bed, or both, then enter the number of test cycles to run.
Yes you absolutely can! I mentioned that in the BL Touch firmware video after upgrading to Alex's firmware. It really nice to be able to just go through a few menus and fo the same thing we do in this video! Thanks for spreading the word I appreciate it.
Thank you so much I'm glad. I should say thank you. Whenever I say I my videos "check out the comments because they're full of helpful information" , well it's because people like you, who care enough to add important information. Thanks again, and I hope I continue to give you great videos!
I'm not in front of my printer at the moment but I believe it's under Control>Temperature>PID Settings. Control would be the lower left box in the main screen and then navigate from there to find the PID menu.
Gomeazy absolutely! PID tuning the bed is a really important process that I didn't cover in this video unfortunately. The good thing is all the same steps and ideas apply). Thanks for pointing that out and if I remember I'll add that to the description lol thanks!
Yes! One of my next videos is going to be about setting up OctoPrint for the Aquila, which is how I tape my timelapses. I can go into the setup with that video!
The big question is, how do we / I know that the actual true temp is 215 when I PID to 215. What kind of thermostat will give the best most accurate reading? I've tried an inferred gun and I can't even get close to the proper temp. Then I tried a kitchen thermometer and it was even worse.
Hey Mark that's actually a great question, and the answer is we sort of have to rely on what the gauge is telling us. Besides that there were two ways I found to get an accurate current temperature. One is by using a multimeter and a thermocouple. The other way by using a high temperature meat thermometer used for bbqs. The thermometer itself had the thinnest needle I could find. I was able to remove the filament and drop the needle all the way to the nozzle base. I've used some of those infared gauges too but they can become inaccurate on shiny surfaces, so the results are too trustworthy. Apart from checking those ways we have to assume the 215(or whatever temp you're going for) is actually 215. Are you having any weird temperature issues ?
@@PrintsLeo3D I never thought of removing the bowden tube and filament and sticking my kitchen / meat thermometer down. Great idea. Will advise so others can learn. Be safe!
@@123masteryoda123 " I've dried an inferred gun ",.. yes, I know you meant "I've tried a handheld Infrared Thermometer",... But a "Dried Inferred Gun" does sound like a suitably Alien anti-potential-nuke device :D :D :D How far was Los Alamos from Roswell or Groom Lake? lolol.
There's two possible causes for this. One is if you have slicing software or some other 3d related printing software running. For instance if Cura is running in the background it will 'hijack' the COM of your printer and you won't be able to connect to Pronterface. All you need to do is close down Cura and then plug the printer into your computer again. Second is the CH340 driver. Sometimes this driver must be installed for the program to run and communicate with your printer. You can follow this link to found a download and information page on it: learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all Hope this helps. If not let me know and we'll keep at it!
@@PrintsLeo3D I have all programs closed and when I hit install I received a messaging saying the drivers were successfully pre-installed. plugged the USB back in and nothing still unfortunately. I appreciate the help btw. Edit: I noticed the instructions said to hit uninstall first and I receive a message saying no device found. I am going to check if my usb I'm using is even capable of data transfer.
There's a portion in the video that shows how to find the correct COM, is it possible you are trying to connect to the wrong COM? Also if for some reason you cannot get this to work all is not lost, you can still perform this operation using gcode and saving it to an SD card and then 'printing' the command. What you would do is create a plain text file and then copy the below code to it. Whatever you save the file as end it with ".gcode" (ie I would save the file as "pidTesting.gcode") --------------------------------- M303 E0 C10 S200 U1 M500 --------------------------------- The M303 is what is calling the PID autotune E0 - selects the extruder, don't change this C10 - this is the number of cycles the printer will perform, you could change this if you like S200 - This the temperature to tune around. You should definitely change this to your average printing temperature. U1 - This inserts the results of the testing into your PID settings. But you still need to save your settings! M500 - This Saves your settings so the new PID results persist. Although once this is finished it's a good idea to manually go through the menus and save your settings. For this whole process to work you'll have to save this plain text to your SD card, insert it into the printer, and 'Print' it as normal, and the printer will run through the lines of gcode.
@@PrintsLeo3D My issue is it isn't even showing up in my device manager at all. And I have no way of inserting a SD card in to my computer. I'm brand new to all of this so I'll get it figured out eventually I suppose lol. May just need to wait for an adapter.
Hi There, I had a new main board sent to me by flashforge due to a set of faults then my Aquila went and had a thermal runaway event due to the firmware needing to be updated from the official site of Voxelab as they had been told of some Aquila's having that thermal problem? I have followed your video here to get pronterface as my new replaced hot end was changing the temperature of the hot end up and down like a Yo-yo. So I downloaded the right version for my PC which is the 64 bit windows one. I did as you stated on the port and speed setting of it and the pronterface just say's connecting for many minutes but don't connect? I have tried all the speed settings for my port which I know is the right one as you said unplug the cable to check it, I did and know it is COM1. What else can I try to get this software to connect to the printer by cable? Thanks.
That can definitely be frustrating. Do you have any other printer software open like Cura or another slicer? Those programs can interfere with Pronterface's ability to communicate with your printer.
@@PrintsLeo3D I have Cura 4.11.0 installed and Voxelab Slicer and Tronxy Slicer as I have got a Tronxy X5SA I be fixing soon as it can't do leveling either in manual or Auto so that be another thing to do? But did not have any of them opened as I did the connect trying! 🤔
@@PrintsLeo3D As I said above "No" none were opened at that time in any way! All were fully closed. Also I wondered about the version I had? Because it does not connect using any of the speeds of the bit rate list, And I remembered that in my main windows programs folder the programs are X86 versions. even though my system is a 64 bit one. So I tried that version that is listed under the X64 one on the download Pronterface site. Nope tried that X86 version at all the speeds of bits the same outcome not connecting at all? I un-stall the X86 version and kept the X64 pronterface program. Really a pain now! 😒
Oof, sorry I didn't see the bottom of your last post that answered my question from earlier. There are some important drivers that you may need to download in order for the software to work, namely CH340. A link to help download and install this driver - learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all
Even after doing the tuning, my hotend at 240 ranges up 3 degrees to 243, then down to 237, then back to 243 and the cycle keeps repeating. Can't seem to stay pegged?
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks man, well.. I am starting to think the thermistor went bad. I made sure the PID was saved but got a thermal runaway error during a long PETG print. It's a cheap part, so fingers crossed!
Sounds like you are doing the right thing. Just had to do the same install on my Jayo S8 Plus, luckily everything went well and it's printing a 24+ hour print as we speak. Good luck!
Yes, those are all 3d printed rail inserts. I Designed those myself, they print without support and don't require a ton of filament. There's a link to my thingiverse account in the video description, and you can find the design for them there. I used FilaCube maroon filament for that color, it's really nice . Thanks !
Thank You! I have had my Aquila for about two months and believe my thermistor readings are about 15° lower than what the screen says. This is what will correct that I’m assuming. And, was yours off too?
So I tried the PID tuning on the Aquila and I got sketched out when I sent the G-Code and the printer had an alarm go out. When I sent the G-Code command I got this: SENDING:M303 E0 C10 S215 PID Autotune start Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0 Error:Printer halted. kill() called! Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Always scary when a fault gets thrown especially when it's something with the heating system. This seems like thermal runaway protection is getting activated but I couldn't be sure. A few questions: 1.) Is the extruder heating up at all? If so what temperature is it reaching? 2.) Is the hot end disassembled in any way? Fan shroud, silicone sock, etc. 3.) Does your machine have the factory firmware installed still? 4.) outside of the PID autotune is your printer heating up normally, for instance by using the LCD screen to adjust temperature? Again, I'll reiterate I am no expert and issues that arise while performing 'heating' operations should definitely should be taken seriously. Hopefully we can figure this one out though.
Mine just did the same thing, heats up normally, and got the same message. On the Aquila screen it said Nozzle or Bed Temp Too Low while screaming at me
PLEASE NOTE/ADD thanks to u/LNC14920 on Reddit if you are running Alex's Firmware on your aquila and cannot connect to Pronterface you must download and install a driver called CH340 i found my download here .. learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all#windows-710
Edit* 9/1/21 - Just added the addendum to the video description. Thank you again for following up and leaving the comment so that other viewers can benefit!
This was a life saver!!! My printer kept failing during heat up, or worse, when it was in the middle of printing!
Now, it's holding temp perfectly!
Thank you!!!
Great to hear! There's a lot of these small calibrations that can make or break a print and the overall printing experience. Happy to have helped out! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Thank you! I appreciate the step by step instructions. It makes doing stuff like this much easier for a beginner like myself
I know how overwhelming getting into 3d printing can be, so I try and make my videos easy to absorb and not filled with a bunch of technical lingo. Thank you for taking time out of your day to let me know it's helping!
Thank you so much, this was really helpful! Just did tuning for the first time. Also tuned my bed too.
Great job! Thanks for the kind comment, I am glad it helped. Hopefully this helps get your prints looing amazing !
Thanks for the video. Worked out great once I figured out how to get the printer to talk to the computer. For anyone struggling, I installed the ch340 drivers but it still wouldn't connect. Messed with it for several hours before trying a different cable and then it worked. The cable I had would detect an "unknown device" so I thought it was a data cable but would refuse to connect. Lesson learned was make sure you have a data micro USB cable. Not sure how to tell one from the other but it definitely matters.
Thanks for watching and extra thanks for dropping the knowledge. I try and cover as many issues that may come up as I can, but it's important comments like yours that help round out any and all of the solutions. Much appreciated!
FYI- You can do this from the printer control with the latest Alex/JyersUI firmware. You can specify hot end, bed, or both, then enter the number of test cycles to run.
Yes you absolutely can! I mentioned that in the BL Touch firmware video after upgrading to Alex's firmware. It really nice to be able to just go through a few menus and fo the same thing we do in this video! Thanks for spreading the word I appreciate it.
@@PrintsLeo3D Thank you, I'm just starting out and I've learned a ton from your videos.
Thank you so much I'm glad. I should say thank you. Whenever I say I my videos "check out the comments because they're full of helpful information" , well it's because people like you, who care enough to add important information. Thanks again, and I hope I continue to give you great videos!
Where in the Alex firmware menu is this feature?
I'm not in front of my printer at the moment but I believe it's under Control>Temperature>PID Settings. Control would be the lower left box in the main screen and then navigate from there to find the PID menu.
Oh man, thank you so much! I needed this.
I'm glad this was able to help you! Thanks for commenting!!
Love the wallpaper it's gorgeous
I agree. I found this art a while ago and haven't been able to find the creator to give them some credit, it's really awesome!
This helped me out so much man thank you so much for making this video much love!!!!
I appreciate the support and the good vibes. I'm just trying to help and I'm glad I was able to! Happy printing!
Super helpful, thank you so much.
Thanks! I am glad to be of help!
If you wanted to do this for the bed, would you just use the same command but instead of E0 you use E-1?
Gomeazy absolutely! PID tuning the bed is a really important process that I didn't cover in this video unfortunately. The good thing is all the same steps and ideas apply). Thanks for pointing that out and if I remember I'll add that to the description lol thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D Current version Aquila X2 firmware, and the E-1 returned "PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number"
Hello, I need to reset the bios of a voxelab here that won't let me install any of the firmware, thanks
Juan how do you know you're unable to install new firmware? What steps have you taken ?
Hi Leo! could you do a tutorial on the camera setup/Printer setup youve got going on with the timelapse kind of thing at the intro?
Yes! One of my next videos is going to be about setting up OctoPrint for the Aquila, which is how I tape my timelapses. I can go into the setup with that video!
The big question is, how do we / I know that the actual true temp is 215 when I PID to 215. What kind of thermostat will give the best most accurate reading? I've tried an inferred gun and I can't even get close to the proper temp. Then I tried a kitchen thermometer and it was even worse.
Hey Mark that's actually a great question, and the answer is we sort of have to rely on what the gauge is telling us. Besides that there were two ways I found to get an accurate current temperature. One is by using a multimeter and a thermocouple. The other way by using a high temperature meat thermometer used for bbqs. The thermometer itself had the thinnest needle I could find. I was able to remove the filament and drop the needle all the way to the nozzle base. I've used some of those infared gauges too but they can become inaccurate on shiny surfaces, so the results are too trustworthy. Apart from checking those ways we have to assume the 215(or whatever temp you're going for) is actually 215. Are you having any weird temperature issues ?
@@PrintsLeo3D I never thought of removing the bowden tube and filament and sticking my kitchen / meat thermometer down. Great idea. Will advise so others can learn. Be safe!
You're welcome! Glad I could help and be careful! Happy printing.
@@123masteryoda123 " I've dried an inferred gun ",.. yes, I know you meant "I've tried a handheld Infrared Thermometer",... But a "Dried Inferred Gun" does sound like a suitably Alien anti-potential-nuke device :D :D :D How far was Los Alamos from Roswell or Groom Lake? lolol.
I have my voxelab plugged in to a usb but it isn't showing up at all in the COM. What could my issue be?
There's two possible causes for this. One is if you have slicing software or some other 3d related printing software running. For instance if Cura is running in the background it will 'hijack' the COM of your printer and you won't be able to connect to Pronterface. All you need to do is close down Cura and then plug the printer into your computer again.
Second is the CH340 driver. Sometimes this driver must be installed for the program to run and communicate with your printer. You can follow this link to found a download and information page on it:
learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all
Hope this helps. If not let me know and we'll keep at it!
@@PrintsLeo3D I have all programs closed and when I hit install I received a messaging saying the drivers were successfully pre-installed. plugged the USB back in and nothing still unfortunately. I appreciate the help btw.
Edit: I noticed the instructions said to hit uninstall first and I receive a message saying no device found. I am going to check if my usb I'm using is even capable of data transfer.
There's a portion in the video that shows how to find the correct COM, is it possible you are trying to connect to the wrong COM? Also if for some reason you cannot get this to work all is not lost, you can still perform this operation using gcode and saving it to an SD card and then 'printing' the command. What you would do is create a plain text file and then copy the below code to it. Whatever you save the file as end it with ".gcode" (ie I would save the file as "pidTesting.gcode")
---------------------------------
M303 E0 C10 S200 U1
M500
---------------------------------
The M303 is what is calling the PID autotune
E0 - selects the extruder, don't change this
C10 - this is the number of cycles the printer will perform, you could change this if
you like
S200 - This the temperature to tune around. You should definitely change this to
your average printing temperature.
U1 - This inserts the results of the testing into your PID settings. But you still
need to save your settings!
M500 - This Saves your settings so the new PID results persist. Although once this is finished it's a good idea to manually go through the menus and save your settings.
For this whole process to work you'll have to save this plain text to your SD card, insert it into the printer, and 'Print' it as normal, and the printer will run through the lines of gcode.
@@PrintsLeo3D My issue is it isn't even showing up in my device manager at all. And I have no way of inserting a SD card in to my computer. I'm brand new to all of this so I'll get it figured out eventually I suppose lol. May just need to wait for an adapter.
Hi There, I had a new main board sent to me by flashforge due to a set of faults then my Aquila went and had a thermal runaway event due to the firmware needing to be updated
from the official site of Voxelab as they had been told of some Aquila's having that thermal problem?
I have followed your video here to get pronterface as my new replaced hot end was changing the temperature of the hot end up and down like a Yo-yo.
So I downloaded the right version for my PC which is the 64 bit windows one.
I did as you stated on the port and speed setting of it and the pronterface just say's connecting for many minutes but don't connect?
I have tried all the speed settings for my port which I know is the right one as you said unplug the cable to check it, I did and know it is COM1.
What else can I try to get this software to connect to the printer by cable?
Thanks.
That can definitely be frustrating. Do you have any other printer software open like Cura or another slicer? Those programs can interfere with Pronterface's ability to communicate with your printer.
@@PrintsLeo3D I have Cura 4.11.0 installed and Voxelab Slicer and Tronxy Slicer as I have got a Tronxy X5SA I be fixing soon as it can't do leveling either in manual or Auto so that be another thing to do? But did not have any of them opened as I did the connect trying! 🤔
Are those other programs open on your computer when you're trying to run Pronterface?
@@PrintsLeo3D As I said above "No" none were opened at that time in any way! All were fully closed. Also I wondered about the version I had?
Because it does not connect using any of the speeds of the bit rate list,
And I remembered that in my main windows programs folder the programs are X86 versions. even though my system is a 64 bit one.
So I tried that version that is listed under the X64 one on the download Pronterface site.
Nope tried that X86 version at all the speeds of bits the same outcome not connecting at all?
I un-stall the X86 version and kept the X64 pronterface program. Really a pain now! 😒
Oof, sorry I didn't see the bottom of your last post that answered my question from earlier. There are some important drivers that you may need to download in order for the software to work, namely CH340. A link to help download and install this driver -
learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all
Even after doing the tuning, my hotend at 240 ranges up 3 degrees to 243, then down to 237, then back to 243 and the cycle keeps repeating. Can't seem to stay pegged?
Are you running the PID tune at 240? Are you remember to save your settings with M500 after getting the PID values ?
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks man, well.. I am starting to think the thermistor went bad. I made sure the PID was saved but got a thermal runaway error during a long PETG print. It's a cheap part, so fingers crossed!
Sounds like you are doing the right thing. Just had to do the same install on my Jayo S8 Plus, luckily everything went well and it's printing a 24+ hour print as we speak. Good luck!
those browns strips are those been 3d printed if so please tell me were can I find that thanks
Yes, those are all 3d printed rail inserts. I Designed those myself, they print without support and don't require a ton of filament. There's a link to my thingiverse account in the video description, and you can find the design for them there. I used FilaCube maroon filament for that color, it's really nice . Thanks !
@@PrintsLeo3D thanks im gonna print them in red thanks again
Thank You! I have had my Aquila for about two months and believe my thermistor readings are about 15° lower than what the screen says. This is what will correct that I’m assuming. And, was yours off too?
Yes this should help to normalize those temps!
Also, thanks I need to do this
It's one of those things that really isn't hard but it's a matter of finding the time to do it. Good Luck, and thanks for all the comments!
So I tried the PID tuning on the Aquila and I got sketched out when I sent the G-Code and the printer had an alarm go out. When I sent the G-Code command I got this:
SENDING:M303 E0 C10 S215
PID Autotune start
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: 0
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
Always scary when a fault gets thrown especially when it's something with the heating system. This seems like thermal runaway protection is getting activated but I couldn't be sure. A few questions:
1.) Is the extruder heating up at all? If so what temperature is it reaching?
2.) Is the hot end disassembled in any way? Fan shroud, silicone sock, etc.
3.) Does your machine have the factory firmware installed still?
4.) outside of the PID autotune is your printer heating up normally, for instance by using the LCD screen to adjust temperature?
Again, I'll reiterate I am no expert and issues that arise while performing 'heating' operations should definitely should be taken seriously. Hopefully we can figure this one out though.
Mine just did the same thing, heats up normally, and got the same message. On the Aquila screen it said Nozzle or Bed Temp Too Low while screaming at me
@@SwearingDisc0 had this same issue. I needed to Autohome my printer and then I was able to do the auto tune.
New mic
I was testing a new mic for my most recent video but no dice. At this rate I am going through new mics each episode lol.
PLEASE NOTE/ADD thanks to u/LNC14920 on Reddit if you are running Alex's Firmware on your aquila and cannot connect to Pronterface you must download and install a driver called CH340 i found my download here .. learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-install-ch340-drivers/all#windows-710
Yes very true! Thank you for sharing this, I am going to update the info section to include this process in case anyone will need it. Thanks again!
Edit* 9/1/21 - Just added the addendum to the video description. Thank you again for following up and leaving the comment so that other viewers can benefit!