Yeah! Finally someone who shows the right way and the wrong way, and how to fix mistakes. Beginners like me make mistakes but most of these soldering channels forget to tell us how to fix our mistakes. I did my very first through-hole kit yesterday and made a ton of mistakes. The led hourglass kit worked first try, which surprised me, but it wouldn't pass a soldering test.
For a bit more advanced technique there is some value to overloading a tip with solder to make a temporary (albeit poor) connection, especially in tight spaces, simply to hold a component or wire in place...again, temporarily until you affix another end or lead when of course you go back and make a proper solder connection at that point. A bit more important back in the days of tube sockets and interconnecting wires and parts. Thanks for the tutorial Steve, look forward to the next installment.
I have dyspraxia. My hand-eye co-ordination and spacial awareness are pretty poor and I've been really struggling to work out what all the videos and texts I've been watching/reading are trying to tell me; I haven't been able to work out where to place the solder wire and iron. This one has helped greatly, the macro photography was fantastic. I bought a couple of cheap kits with loads of LEDs to practice on. It took a while but I think I've pretty much cracked it now, so thanks!
That was perfect! Right to the point. With helpful tips and good and bad examples. I looked at quite a few videos before I got to this one and they were 10 to 20 minutes long mostly talking and never really showed us how to do anything.
Ordered 3 micro arduinos (like, REALLY micro)and the rails or whatever they are called weren't attached. Watched this, bought a soldiering iron at walmart and just made 30 perfect soldier joints on my first try. This video and an 8x loup really made it possible! ;)
I realised that after uploading, although I have a part coming up in this series about when to use flux, a comparison of various types and how to clean up
What soldering iron do you reccommend? Which iron are you using in this video? Can you do a UK soldering iron comparison video from cheap through to expensive? There are so many to choose from. weller 15w, weller 25w, weller 40w, weller 80w, then there are the cheapest an-tech tools and sealey tools, laser tools 40w,, (eurocarparts) silverline tools (local hardware shop), CPC-Farnell seem to have the best prices for weller. Halfords also sell a Rolson 40w for £8. Toolstation and screwfix also, Most of these come with conical tips and screwdriver tips.
Thanks for this video too! I’m going to try using some AIM brand led free solder that a UA-camr recommended. Do you ever use lead free? Is the solder you used in this video leaded? Thanks again!
Great video. One quick question. If you solder from the bottom and make a joint that appears to have good coverage, but when you look at it from the top, it does not appear as though there is good coverage, does it matter? Do you need to keep applying solder (from the bottom) until the top also shows a "good joint"?
Buy a good soldering station and good solder. Also maintain your tip keep it tinned and clean with a brass cup or wet sponge. My personal choice of stations is Metcal MX-PS5000* Never had an issue
Seeing that you modeled the criteria from the IPC standard, wouldnt reheating the joint create a thicker bi-metallic layer? Or is that irrelevent here?
Thanks, I follow your videos, very well made. What is the best temperature for the soldering iron, what will you suggest based on your experience? Thanks.
When I soldered the legs of the Arduino nano, the result was blobbed upward. I'm using 60/40 with 0.8mm diameter tin lead and set the soldering iron at 350°C (662°F). What's wrong with it?
Hello there! Im a student and i am studying the cracks on middle of solder in pcb components. Can you say to me some solutions to solve this problem? Does it depends of the welding alloy( im using SAC305 RX18)? or the themperatures? Can i solve this problem? It's for my thesis of master degree. Best regards.
no, No, NO!!! Do NOT use a cone shaped tip - the heat transfer is terrible. The chisel shape has (grooved chisel tip is even better) MUCH better heat transfer so soldering is faster and with more uniform results especially when soldering dis-similar items like a component lead and PCB pad.
Yeah! Finally someone who shows the right way and the wrong way, and how to fix mistakes. Beginners like me make mistakes but most of these soldering channels forget to tell us how to fix our mistakes. I did my very first through-hole kit yesterday and made a ton of mistakes. The led hourglass kit worked first try, which surprised me, but it wouldn't pass a soldering test.
Super job on that macrophotography!!
Great video Steve 👍.. Probably one of the best available for folk unsure of how a good solder joint should be attained.
Cheers, John
Nice shots, and good to hear a native speaker saying the name of different stuff!
Thank you for a fantastic video! This is probably one of the clearest, quickest videos on what to do - and not to do!
Hi what’s your solder temperature are you using?
For a bit more advanced technique there is some value to overloading a tip with solder to make a temporary (albeit poor) connection, especially in tight spaces, simply to hold a component or wire in place...again, temporarily until you affix another end or lead when of course you go back and make a proper solder connection at that point. A bit more important back in the days of tube sockets and interconnecting wires and parts. Thanks for the tutorial Steve, look forward to the next installment.
Totally true. And the vaccum thing to suck excess solder and reopen the hole it's a good technic
this is one of the super detail and super crispy sharp quality video i have ever seen on soldering in youtube. bravo !!!!
great technique and your background is awesome its a cool setup
Just satifying how the solder flows
Just started working on Arduino and this is SUPER helpful, clear concise and given me confidence to try! Thanks so much!!
Nice work - very clear image quality. Thanks.
Your video has really great examples as well as information. Thanks for putting in the time.
Fantastic tips. I wish I had found this video years ago. Thank you
I have dyspraxia. My hand-eye co-ordination and spacial awareness are pretty poor and I've been really struggling to work out what all the videos and texts I've been watching/reading are trying to tell me; I haven't been able to work out where to place the solder wire and iron. This one has helped greatly, the macro photography was fantastic. I bought a couple of cheap kits with loads of LEDs to practice on. It took a while but I think I've pretty much cracked it now, so thanks!
That was perfect! Right to the point. With helpful tips and good and bad examples. I looked at quite a few videos before I got to this one and they were 10 to 20 minutes long mostly talking and never really showed us how to do anything.
You make it look so simple.
Best video I've seen on this yet, thank you!
I'm just getting into the RC and this was good info on how to fix the solder problems. Thanks!
Same thoughts and actions as I do .... Steve , we are TUNED !!...
Wow seeing this so close up was definitely helpful. Thank you!
Unreal. Thank you. I was having trouble with this.
Great video, good camera work, thanks
Ordered 3 micro arduinos (like, REALLY micro)and the rails or whatever they are called weren't attached. Watched this, bought a soldiering iron at walmart and just made 30 perfect soldier joints on my first try. This video and an 8x loup really made it possible! ;)
I agree: quality video, thank you.
Great tutorial as usual! Would love some of your equipment in my lab. Thanks Steve. Please keep up the videos if you get time, I really enjoy them.
Will do, thanks Andy
Thanks Steve! That looks pretty good to me.
Thank you for the help! Gonna give this a shot...
Extremely helpful, thank you!
Excellent video. Thank you.
Very useful video 👍
Thanks :)
Excellent video and pro tip on how it should be done.
You only left out the part about cleaning up the flux afterwards. 😊
I realised that after uploading, although I have a part coming up in this series about when to use flux, a comparison of various types and how to clean up
Yes, and also to make sure the wires (or legs) on the components are clean before installing and soldering them.@@sdgelectronics
What kind of flux was that? Do you have a link for it?
What soldering iron do you reccommend? Which iron are you using in this video?
Can you do a UK soldering iron comparison video from cheap through to expensive? There are so many to choose from. weller 15w, weller 25w, weller 40w, weller 80w, then there are the cheapest an-tech tools and sealey tools, laser tools 40w,, (eurocarparts) silverline tools (local hardware shop), CPC-Farnell seem to have the best prices for weller. Halfords also sell a Rolson 40w for £8. Toolstation and screwfix also, Most of these come with conical tips and screwdriver tips.
Thanks for this video too! I’m going to try using some AIM brand led free solder that a UA-camr recommended. Do you ever use lead free? Is the solder you used in this video leaded? Thanks again!
Great job Sir Thanks v much 👍
Thank you Sir
how would you solder a stand off to the main board without burning the main board it self?
From where we buy the Multicore 62/36/2 ?
Great video. One quick question. If you solder from the bottom and make a joint that appears to have good coverage, but when you look at it from the top, it does not appear as though there is good coverage, does it matter? Do you need to keep applying solder (from the bottom) until the top also shows a "good joint"?
There's different IPC classifications for depth of solder through a PTH. Generally you should aim for a full fill by applying heat for longer
@@sdgelectronics Understood. I'm glad it wasn't just me being OCD. Thanks for your input.
My solder never melts instantly like it does on this video , always have to hold the iron on for 7-10 seconds, any tips?
Buy a good soldering station and good solder. Also maintain your tip keep it tinned and clean with a brass cup or wet sponge. My personal choice of stations is Metcal MX-PS5000* Never had an issue
For more heat sensitive components, especially those with thicker leads I will clamp an alligator clip on the lead next to the actual component.
Great video! Thanks :)
Seeing that you modeled the criteria from the IPC standard, wouldnt reheating the joint create a thicker bi-metallic layer? Or is that irrelevent here?
I’m a pro now. Thanks
Thanks, I follow your videos, very well made. What is the best temperature for the soldering iron, what will you suggest based on your experience? Thanks.
What size are the pads on the pcb and what size core is your solder. Do you have say a recommended ratio of pad size to core size .
Thanks
Great vid - thanks. From 00:24 onwards, are you applying flux before attempting to solder or are the relevant areas of the board "dry"? Cheers
Looks to me like it's just the flux in the solder doing the job, no additional flux added.
When I soldered the legs of the Arduino nano, the result was blobbed upward. I'm using 60/40 with 0.8mm diameter tin lead and set the soldering iron at 350°C (662°F). What's wrong with it?
Likely not enough heat on the pad and leg before adding solder
@@sdgelectronics thank you for the information, sir.
Hi. Recent subscriber here. I see your face for first time. I would have never matched your voice to your body.🤣
Yes, I was thinking the same thing 😜
Who's face were you expecting? 😅
@@sdgelectronics I don't know....James Earl Jones...:p
I accidentally scratched the PCB and both legs , I think, joined/shorted. What should I do?
Separate with solder wick. Use a blade if needed.
What type of flux is that?
Multicore branded no-clean flux. The one in the description works well too.
@@sdgelectronics thx!
Hello there! Im a student and i am studying the cracks on middle of solder in pcb components. Can you say to me some solutions to solve this problem? Does it depends of the welding alloy( im using SAC305 RX18)? or the themperatures? Can i solve this problem? It's for my thesis of master degree. Best regards.
Must have
Can anybody recommend some good solder and flux available in the UK please.
The Duratool solder from CPC is good. Also the MG Chemicals flux from Amazon. See videos #055 and #059
SDG Electronics great, thanks
You have a lot of soldering iron (metcal)but you do not have one jbc .
bless u
I'll never learn how to use the words "wetting" "flowing" "soldering" correctly.
Thank y9
Good
To building a mechanical keyboard I go!
Jbc is the best
🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡🧡
Me sees backround:
A bit messy
Soldering THT it's like woman: better fat than cold
no, No, NO!!! Do NOT use a cone shaped tip - the heat transfer is terrible. The chisel shape has (grooved chisel tip is even better) MUCH better heat transfer so soldering is faster and with more uniform results especially when soldering dis-similar items like a component lead and PCB pad.