That's a clever compressor tool for those that only have two arms. The web is such a great place to catch such useful videos! Doing my Hayabusa forks ready for it's MOT. )))
very helpful video ,never done a full strip with any of my forks and always got Bob Grant to rebuild all my forks and rear shocks but after watching your video im for a bash at this myself .i build gearboxes thats my thing so im sure i`ll manage as your video is so clear and helpful . thank you for posting top man
@@rg4170 thank you for the kind words. I have never changed those type, only the split ones that slide off. I imagine they will just knock/pull out but can’t confirm I’m afraid
Nice video fella! Only thing is you didnt set the rebound adjuster to ensure it has the correct range of adjustment. Depending on where the adjuster is set, it can change how far on the damping rod the cap will screw. This can also mean you effectively change the amount of preload. Same as if the cartridge doesnt locate properly in the recess at the bottom, will also change it. Still great video with great pacing.
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍 Yep, I totally get you 👌🏻 On that fork the damper locknut was basically wound all the way down, I set it back to where it was and the preload had the same range of adjustment as per spec but should have mentioned it
You're referring to the 13mm exposed thread above the nut measurement correct? Which can be obtained by measuring 13mm or by adjusting the rebound adjuster all the way out and then back in 3.5 turns and then locking the cap down? I'm currently seeing what the difference may be between using the service manuals 13mm guide vs almost everyone suggesting the 3.5 turn method. I believe the rebound adjuster method will actually work better.
@@SquidRider I’ve not heard of the 3.5 turn method, I will do some research. We are talking about the top cap lock nut on the damper thread. In this video it is all the way at the bottom of the thread. If you change the position of this it obviously changes how far the fork cap can screw down. This in turn effects the preload on the spring and rebound damper adjustment range
They are from a standard 675, the R’s have Ohlins fitted. I’ve not had a set of those apart, the internals I’m sure will have differences and certainly have a different fork cap, however all forks have the same components and operating principles
Surprised there isn’t an upper bush on these stantions, seems a bit odd to be honest Good quality video though, well explained, nicely shot and I like your compression tool
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. Made my job a lot easier!
That's a clever compressor tool for those that only have two arms. The web is such a great place to catch such useful videos! Doing my Hayabusa forks ready for it's MOT. )))
very helpful video ,never done a full strip with any of my forks and always got Bob Grant to rebuild all my forks and rear shocks but after watching your video im for a bash at this myself .i build gearboxes thats my thing so im sure i`ll manage as your video is so clear and helpful . thank you for posting top man
Thanks for this video. Very clear and concise instructions.
Brilliant video on the fork seals, Do you know how to change the internal fork bushes.
@@rg4170 thank you for the kind words. I have never changed those type, only the split ones that slide off. I imagine they will just knock/pull out but can’t confirm I’m afraid
Nice video fella!
Only thing is you didnt set the rebound adjuster to ensure it has the correct range of adjustment.
Depending on where the adjuster is set, it can change how far on the damping rod the cap will screw.
This can also mean you effectively change the amount of preload.
Same as if the cartridge doesnt locate properly in the recess at the bottom, will also change it.
Still great video with great pacing.
Thanks for the positive feedback 👍
Yep, I totally get you 👌🏻 On that fork the damper locknut was basically wound all the way down, I set it back to where it was and the preload had the same range of adjustment as per spec but should have mentioned it
You're referring to the 13mm exposed thread above the nut measurement correct? Which can be obtained by measuring 13mm or by adjusting the rebound adjuster all the way out and then back in 3.5 turns and then locking the cap down? I'm currently seeing what the difference may be between using the service manuals 13mm guide vs almost everyone suggesting the 3.5 turn method. I believe the rebound adjuster method will actually work better.
@@SquidRider I’ve not heard of the 3.5 turn method, I will do some research. We are talking about the top cap lock nut on the damper thread. In this video it is all the way at the bottom of the thread. If you change the position of this it obviously changes how far the fork cap can screw down. This in turn effects the preload on the spring and rebound damper adjustment range
Are the forks from a 675 or a 675 r? I've an r to do and wonder whether they're the same as these? Great video 👍
They are from a standard 675, the R’s have Ohlins fitted. I’ve not had a set of those apart, the internals I’m sure will have differences and certainly have a different fork cap, however all forks have the same components and operating principles
Surprised there isn’t an upper bush on these stantions, seems a bit odd to be honest
Good quality video though, well explained, nicely shot and I like your compression tool
I can’t say I’ve ever seen another set of forks without upper bushes either 🤔 Thanks 👍