Road To 500HP SAAB: Cylinderhead
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2024
- This is the first episode in a brand new build series, how to get a Saab 9-5 Aero to 500HP.
Here a cover eveything regarding the cylinderhead.
Here you can get information about the different camshafts:
900aero.com/ma...
Link to the upgraded springs:
shop.klracing....
Follow me on instagram:
/ jonaskakarikas
I'm currently doing this to my b204 cylinder head. I bent the valves on it so have seen it as an opportunity to do it. Put a second hand temporary one on the car so I can still move it around to work on it. It's never ending but I love the car.
Just a heads up, you can (and should) bleed down all of the lifters, especially ones that are "stuck". Get something softer than the lifters that won't mar the surface (I use delron) and place the lifter in a vice; one piece between the jaw and top of the lifter, and another pushing the lifter plunger from the other jaw of the vice. All you need to do is clamp down the vice and it will push the oil out of the lifter pressure port. I had this recommended to me by a machine shop and have been doing it since. The lifters will go from not moving at all to being fully squishable by hand. Like you said, this prevents the lifters from pushing too far on the valves and lets everything set properly on new engine startup. If you have any questions hit me up, I can probably even find some pictures if you'd like
I did this just after i released this video 😉 worked really good 👍
@@JonasKakarikas glad to hear it worked well for you!
@@JonasKakarikas Thanks for your fantastic videos!!!!
Regarding the lifters there is a nice UA-cam video made by "Farbror Skum" where he demonstrates how to open up the lifters on his 9-5.
His method works perfectly. I have solved exactly your problem in that way. Keep em comming - love your videos!!!!
This is literally the dream 9-5 build.
Good lord man this is the dream!
First I think it is a great and very informative video, keep up the good work! But when doing a DIY cylinder head porting I would recommend to apply dye ink on the valve seats first and second do the valve lapping. If you do it in that order you can clearly see where you have the sealing area on the valve seats. When doing the porting job you can blend the valve seats and the port in the area where you don´t the sealant area. Other than that the approach is the correct one on SAAB cylinder head as long as you are going to run stock or any Saab camshafts. The cylinder head development and evaluation were done with Thiens model meaning that the port flow was evaluated with the camshaft profile. With a camshaft profile with higher valve lift then it might be worth considering a more radical porting to improve the flow at higher valve lift.
Porting the intake is only effective at 0 psi anyway. Boost typically negates runner profile and the surge area becomes more critical to spool response and available air volume.
FREAKING AWESOME!!!!!!!! Keep it up man! No one else on UA-cam has done these mods step by step like this.
🙏
Help...In the middle of a 2005 B235R engine rebuild...connecting rod bolts ( Part Number: 4501789)for the split fractured style Con Rods (SAAB Connecting Rod 30589313
)
are no longer available!!!! They are torque to yield bolts so re-use seems dicey at best....Ideas anyone?
You can see that you have a passion for this job. Great job.👍👍
That's one badass Saab. I love it!
Thanks 🙏
Wish I had gotten that lucky trying to remove my broken exhaust stud. Good work and thanks for sharing.
The Coating on the exhaust valves is a Nimonic coating, first used by the british I believe for jet turbine compressor blades, "Grinding" was not recommended by saab, Just lapping, I have hybrid t7-5 heads built, t7 heads with all 16, T5 valves & some with Just T5 exhaust valves.
Kommer förmodligen aldrig, någonsin, göra detta jobbet. Men helvete vad intressant det är att följa med, och lära sig mer om motorer.
Man ska aldrig säga aldrig 😉
Nice. Great close up video shots of what you are doing. Well done.
As others say, this is a good reference video, even if you have not done this before.
When I upgraded my 9-5, I think I briefly put T5 cams from a 9000 aero on as a mild upgrade, then later 268’s (I think).
My valve springs not changed, although I considered Volvo uprated ones- so my car still only revs to 6800. 😁
Keep them coming 👍🏻
Jonas this is amazing. Good work!
Det här kommer ju bli perfekt! Har en svart 9-5 Sedan Aero 05a med T5 botten från 9000 och T7 topp med T5 kammar, 19T turbo för tillfället men är sugen på lite mer effekt
🙏
Så jäkla fräckt med dessa motorer! Helt underskattad maskin! Man kan lätt plocka ur 500hk utan större svåreheter!
Eller hur 🥳🥳🥳
Hey mate! Your taste is impeccable 👌
I have a saab 9-3 arc 2004 with a B207r engine that you advise me to raise the HP to 600HP
That engine will need alot of work before you reach 600hp.
Saab’s are happiest with plenty of BHP 🤣
🙏
Lycka till nu med bilen 👍😉
🙏
my question would be: do you use a flow branch to tell if you have increased air flow and have equal flow on each port?
No just go with feeling and remove equal amount on each port. But the head on the 9-5 is very good from factory, so the best is just to leave it as is...
Very good explanation and tips
What is the valve spring upgraded?
32kg springs instead of oem
So I'd done my intake side on my head not yet got to the exhaust ports and all the lads on a saab site I'm on are saying to dimple the ports instead of a polish. So after all the work I now need to dimple them instead 😂 sods law but needs must
Biltemas högtrycksshampo är visst jäkligt bra att rengöra motordelar i. Lägga grejerna i bad alltså! Sett på UA-cam.
Också hört det nu i efterhand 🙏
Grym video, man blir ju lite sugen på att göra något liknande själv och få nytt liv i den gamla Aero:n ;)
Ska bli väldigt intressant att se hur många häst du får ut i slutändan!
Ja det blir spännande 😉🙏
Great video....never knew the lifters
Were as complicated....always used to just plain old lifter buckets with inset shims.
I have a question and would be grateful for your answer
The cylinder head is a 2.0l turbo head from 03 to 2012 ...?
The cams are from an early saab 900 turbo ...the type with the long ignition coil cassette..?
I work in a salvage yard and I have both types .
Thankyou
Good job 👏 !!
You really taking a flapwheel to all the machines faces 😬😬
Not ideal, but I had zero leaks and the engine still today performing amazing 👌🏼
I am using the same setup on my car.. but it wasn’t easy trying to source these cams..
You’ll be amazed with the results especially if you have extractor manifold and a bigger turbo like 19T
Im going to run extractor and gtx2867r gen2 🥳
@@JonasKakarikas too bad I have the extraktor grenrör with original setup, and feritta.. otherwise I would love another turbo if it fits the original setup
nice SAAB, my dad has a turbo x
Great dad 😉👍
@@JonasKakarikas 9-5 also🥶🥵
Hi Jonas, love your videos, keep them coming. I am following you so I have a b205 r to rebuild and now been offered a b204 to supply rods and pistons. The b204 is non turbo..can I still use the rods and pistons? If ok, What else do I need from the b204 engine?
You took the cams out going end to end, rather than working inwards/working outwards. Did it all go ok?
I loosen them just a little bit at the time to release The tension evenly, went Great 👍
Det funkar kalas att fixa och borra ut pinnbultar i bil
En vinkelväxel på borrmaskinen så e saken biff 👍
Thank you for this course. How much of these details apply or do not apply to a '01 Viggen head.
Its the same, all t7 heads are The same
@@JonasKakarikas Thank you. Another trending argument is pistons; forged or not. I do not need 500 hp but reliability. I am a believer in OEM engineering. What are your thoughts? Can you suggest a brand as well as a supplier. / Tom
Oem T5 Saab. Buy an engine from a scrapped 9000 👍
Awesome!
Sorry if this has already been asked...Can the upgraded T7 springs be used in a T5 head?
I am about to redo the head gasket on my 9000 Aero and was thinking it may be worth throwing better valves in while it's out 🤷
Klracing has stiffer T5 springs also 😉👌
@@JonasKakarikas awesome, hopefully they ship to the States ☺️
I am currently rebuilding a 1994 9000 CD non-turbo on my channel and will eventually have to refresh the B234I. Any recommendations for the T5 setup? I might add a turbo later and run MS3 on it but unsure about the setup for boost. Thanks!
Machine the pistons 1,1mm and install The T7 headgasket 👍
@@JonasKakarikas shave the pistons down and use a newer gasket. Any change in timing or fuel?
The T5 gasket is papper, T7 is Steel.
Dont change anything else, then the engine will ready to be boosted 👍
@@JonasKakarikas no relief cut in the block needed for the steel? Usually multi-ply steel need the deck to be cut for the compressed thickness to prevent compression ratio from changing. The metal gasket and piston shave lowers the ratio for forced induction? Do you know what the final ratio is?
No relife cut, i know its The way to go if you wanna boost your 9000 👍
Different piston Rods, diesel transmision, intercooler ,470hp
Nivel job but.... Some people talk about polishing ports increase speed of fluidodynamics...but gets less turbulence of gasoline/air mixture.... What where your feelings before and after?
My experience is that Saab has made an awesome job with it from factory. You should really know what you are doing before you start grinding and open up the ports.
@@JonasKakarikas I'm not thinking about to do this. Could be if I have any throuble. With stage1 (bioetanol software) and Air filter and FMIC, Stock Brown fuel injectors B235R MY06 will works okay? Or IS just for more upgrades functional?thanks and congratulations!
For stage 1 i say leave it like it is 👍
The lifters wil flex or spring when there is les oil them.
The lifters are stiff cause they filled with oil..
Got to drain the lifters, then they wil spring/flex.
Put a rag in a vise and gently press the oil out with something touching/press against the oil tappet inside the lifter.
Then just lube the lifters when istalling..
It wont take long before the oil pressure fills them to the correct level again at start up..
Safest way.. 😉
You wil have valve ticking in the beginning, but it wil not stay that way..
Better to be safe than sorry, and I have had pretty bad ticking at other builds. Safest way is to avoid it 👍
You were right my friend!!! I pressed it pretty Hard and out came the old oil 👍👌🙏
@@JonasKakarikas I used an oil additive to get rid of the ticking its from Lucas oil and it is heavy like honey
I use to drain them by pressing, but carefully, slow and steady, in and out and in and out, until the tappet is loose and springy. then Put them in diesel, at let them soak in until full or hard again.
Then drain again, in and out, and then just lube them with fresh oil or asembly lube (prefferably From LUCAS Oil) and then installing the lifters in the head 😉 it wil most probably valve tick i the start, but after some running, og a litle roadtrip, the ticking is gone 😉😁. And also,, remember to drain/clean the oil cooler, cause there is alot of OLD OIL junk in there.. 🙈
hey you seem to know your way around a saab. i have a question about my brothers girlfriends 2003 1.8t 9.3 it goes into limp mode and we then tried putting a tester on it, and it sends out a throttle body error code p2135. we then changed the throttle body but that didn't fix the problem. the symptoms are it still runs but only really slow, so the throttle body is receiving some sort of signal from the pedal. and the cruise control don't work any more. the problem started after she drove it with a trailer on it. have you ever heard about a problem like that? hope you can help a fellow Jonas from Denmark :P
Did you by a used throttle body, sure that The used one is working?
Try this:
1)fully depress the pedal with the car off (slowly 5 seconds).
2)Start the car with the pedal fully depressed (it won’t rev, promise)
3)after the car has fully started let off the pedal slowly (5 seconds).
@@JonasKakarikas brand new they had it at an old saab dealer to get an insurance dent fixed and they also tried a new one
Then it might be something wrong with wiringharness :(
@@JonasKakarikas sad face :( but thanks i'll see if i can take look at it this weekend. it's in good condition and even had a 210 hp hirsch chip so it would be a shame it it had to be sold for nothing or scrapped
Is there a inline fuel or gearbox filter for the saab 9-5 ?
Yes there is a fuel filter depending on what engine 9-5 and year
Ska bli kul att följa! 👍🏻 Hur mycket effekt hade du från böjan?
Original vid inköp, 250hp
Det ser ut att bli väldigt breda ventilsäten, skulle det inte reduceras med fräs i inner och ytterkant?
Good video!
Knölen på insugssidan du slipar bort endel har jag låtit en motorbyggare ta bort helt så den är identiskt med andra porten. Funkar utan problem =)
Jag slipade den delvis och har grym effektivitet på motorn 👍
Snygg jobbat, hur fick du rent toppen?
Olika avfettning från tershine sen högtryck och blåste torrt med tryckluft... Biltemas högtrycksshampoo skall vara bra att lägga saker i över natten 👍
@@JonasKakarikas tack för svar, är alltid inspirerande att se dina projekt
What kind of spring compressor??????
The cheapest i could find on ebay.co.uk
Hello , i have problem im my z19dth about start cold motor and smoke 5s /10s help meee
New glowplug
New starter motor
New akumulator
@@s650bandit i don't have this swifl i delete this , when i delete the same time my car smoke im start cold motor olny cold
Can I send you my SAAB 9000 to replace the pistons?
No, i dont work as a mechanic. This is just my hobby. I bet you will workshop near you that could do i 👍
Vad kan va max varvtalet med den setup?
Ingen aning, men går ju att lägg varvstoppet något högre om man skulle vilja det.
tjo! tänkte kolla sabbt, har en 2005 saab 9-3 aero 2.0t.
Vid kalltstart så hoppar varvtalet upp o ner en hel del innan den stabiliserar efter några sec, de är som att den ska dö sen kickar den upp varven, detta händer bara när den är kallt, om den har lite värme i sig så går den upp till rätt varv direkt, vad skulle detta kunna vara?
Skulle kunna vara en hel drös med grejer, kollat så du inte har någon vakuum läcka? Går bilen som den ska på fullgas?
@@JonasKakarikas tycker bilen gå jämt o fint oavsett vad jag gör inprecip så fort den fått lite värme i sig!
inte kolla vacumläcka än, vet inte exakt hur jag ska kolla de, men fått hem insugsrengöring som jag ska rengöra tomgångsventilen med,
sen funderade jag på termostaten? om den kan läsa fel så skickar bilen in fel mängd bränsle/luft? men då borde den kanske gå dåligt hela tiden
you going to nordics for the ecu remap?
No, GDMperformance 👌
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