Mr Evans, It was a pleasure to meet you briefly at WCF, you've been a big influence on my involvement with Hondas & racing. Sincerely, the random Canadian that bugged you while you were just tryna chill with your GF haha. Respect. -Dave
Your video format is the best in its class. Factual information delivered in easy to understand language with a wrap up review at the end. Thank you very much.
100% agree with you on the flywheel bolt issue. After having a flywheel bolt back out on a mild B18C DC2R I have done the same thing ever since on all of my builds and never looked back. I've Also gotten into the habit of using ARP flywheel bolts Everytime I do a B series clutch even on stock setups over the OEM hardware. I also cannot stress enough to stay away from no name clutch kits. If you are on a budget a good Comp or Exedy street disc is a much better choice than any eBay/Amazon Stage 2/3/4 puck style setup. Even on 200-300whp modest setups I've seen "Stage 3/4" puck style race clutches fail in numerous ways despite every effort for proper break in and beIN well under rated power capacity. I've seen rivets come loose on discs, fingers on the pressure plate fail, etc in as little as 600-1000 miles and even if the manufacturer replaces the failed parts they will not compensate you for your time or money spent for shop labor to do the clutch over again, not to mention the new replacement will likely fail as well. It is also common practice for many cheap clutch kits to use a OEM copy pressure plate and simply paint it pretty colors then mate it with a Stage 3-4 puck style disc and rate it for 350-500 lb ft. There is a lot of shady eBay companies and in the long run you won't save a dime. Also, always replace the pilot and TOB when doing a clutch, and in general most budget flywheels (lightweight) should be avoided as well. Even a stock engine from Honda is balanced very well and throwing random lightweight flywheels and/or crank pulleys can end up causing engine failure and normally wont yeild much if any benefit to performance. If your not having you engine built and balanced stick with OEM flywheel and crank pulley weights.
Also with the spark plugs I've found on a track car a basic copper plug and reading/changing very often to be the ideal approach. Anytime i start to modify a B series, even a simple full bolt on/tune 200whp NA GSR or something else similar I automatically go to an NGK BKR7. I'm sure you have an abundance of knowledge as well Jeff, but for viewers who may not the 6 is the stock heat range for most B series but given relatively high compression and rev limits, even stock, the 7 has done better for me over the years and then as you said go up a range for every ~150hp or so. Gapping down for boosted setups is a must as well or you will simply blow out the spark. I don't like to tell people a number instead I give a basic starting point and advise to keep increasing gap until you get issues with breaking up then bring it back down a hair and that's what you want to run. For me ideal plug gap for any setup is the widest gap you can run while still getting clean rev sweeps during pulls. If that's .030 or a super tight .009 whatever the largest gap your setup will run cleanly on is the best as far as my experience has shown me.
Love the videos but I have just one little nit to pick. The change in volume from when you're speaking which is a bit low to the transition music which is much louder has me constantly tinkering with the volume slider.
any suggestion on spring rates for suspension? planning on switching to a 2 way adjustable shock sorta like the strange shocks and curious what spring rates ppl go with
These videos are great. Quick question though: Do you think the Tilton clutch slipper may in some cases may actually increase the E.T.'s of a car that is otherwise well dialed in...because even the the minute time the clutch is slipping...that is power not going to the ground instantly? Thank you. I realize the pros probably outweigh the cons.
have you ever tried the Magnus Clutch valve? and how much of and adjustment you have to use before you see the clutch start slowing down? im wanting to try one for a street car that go out on the weekend to have a lil fun. thanks in advance
you say that best choice for 13" wheels is a tire with 13x10 width or the wheels must be also 13"x 10j???? both must be 13x10?? or is a must tyre be 13x10 and wheels can be 13x7 -13x8???
@@EvansTuning nice thanks for clarifying. Dang now iam wonering what to gap my spark plugs on my all motor setup. I've never messed with spark plugs or bother to check the gap at the track . what spark plug would u reccomend on a 270 300 na set up. No wonder it would fall flat at the top end goin down the track
What about tire pressure for guys running their every day tires and wheels? For instance, I run 19" 245's...Typically I run 37 psi for day to day driving. How much lower for a decent launch? Kinda new to the FWD thing....
Blue Loctite for flywheels and flexplates? Have you seen a flywheel bolt shoot through a header tube? Red Loctite. Can't get it loose? Use heat, it's that simple.
Slip clutch valve? Didn't the 05-06 rsx type s use a delay valve? And why do people swap out the cmc and slave. What u said about shocking the driveline just justify what I've been saying to others and didn't believe me. Ur info/statements put me at ease on my cars :)
02-06 rsx's all use a chamber on the cmc to slow fluid. Slowing down the movement on the pedal engagement to the clutch every time is far different than everything a proper clutch release valve system will do. Something like a ktuned cmc and a magnus clutch release valve would be the best setup to go with.
My 10 Tips and Tricks for Front Wheel Drive Drag Racing: Step 1: Sell your FWD car. Step 2: Buy a RWD car. Steps 3-10: Enjoy all your new found traction and resulting drag racing wins.
Mr Evans,
It was a pleasure to meet you briefly at WCF, you've been a big influence on my involvement with Hondas & racing.
Sincerely, the random Canadian that bugged you while you were just tryna chill with your GF haha. Respect.
-Dave
Dave H Q
just wanna say your videos lately have been very educational, unlike your older videos (dyno pulls). thanks so much for the gold nuggets!
Your video format is the best in its class. Factual information delivered in easy to understand language with a wrap up review at the end. Thank you very much.
Always dropping knowledge. Looking forward to more B series engine tips and tech. Thanks
100% agree with you on the flywheel bolt issue. After having a flywheel bolt back out on a mild B18C DC2R I have done the same thing ever since on all of my builds and never looked back. I've Also gotten into the habit of using ARP flywheel bolts Everytime I do a B series clutch even on stock setups over the OEM hardware. I also cannot stress enough to stay away from no name clutch kits. If you are on a budget a good Comp or Exedy street disc is a much better choice than any eBay/Amazon Stage 2/3/4 puck style setup. Even on 200-300whp modest setups I've seen "Stage 3/4" puck style race clutches fail in numerous ways despite every effort for proper break in and beIN well under rated power capacity. I've seen rivets come loose on discs, fingers on the pressure plate fail, etc in as little as 600-1000 miles and even if the manufacturer replaces the failed parts they will not compensate you for your time or money spent for shop labor to do the clutch over again, not to mention the new replacement will likely fail as well. It is also common practice for many cheap clutch kits to use a OEM copy pressure plate and simply paint it pretty colors then mate it with a Stage 3-4 puck style disc and rate it for 350-500 lb ft. There is a lot of shady eBay companies and in the long run you won't save a dime. Also, always replace the pilot and TOB when doing a clutch, and in general most budget flywheels (lightweight) should be avoided as well. Even a stock engine from Honda is balanced very well and throwing random lightweight flywheels and/or crank pulleys can end up causing engine failure and normally wont yeild much if any benefit to performance. If your not having you engine built and balanced stick with OEM flywheel and crank pulley weights.
I most def agree with the red threadlock, we had some issues up till we used that, Luke@4p gave us that advice.
Also with the spark plugs I've found on a track car a basic copper plug and reading/changing very often to be the ideal approach. Anytime i start to modify a B series, even a simple full bolt on/tune 200whp NA GSR or something else similar I automatically go to an NGK BKR7. I'm sure you have an abundance of knowledge as well Jeff, but for viewers who may not the 6 is the stock heat range for most B series but given relatively high compression and rev limits, even stock, the 7 has done better for me over the years and then as you said go up a range for every ~150hp or so. Gapping down for boosted setups is a must as well or you will simply blow out the spark. I don't like to tell people a number instead I give a basic starting point and advise to keep increasing gap until you get issues with breaking up then bring it back down a hair and that's what you want to run. For me ideal plug gap for any setup is the widest gap you can run while still getting clean rev sweeps during pulls. If that's .030 or a super tight .009 whatever the largest gap your setup will run cleanly on is the best as far as my experience has shown me.
when using an impact gun tighten everything to 5 ugga ugga
Swear to god this man said fuck a torque wrench we putting them to Milwaukee spec
😂🤣
great video man!! was always thinking of getting a delay valve and you just made up my mind
great video. surprised no one touched on this subject,
Thanks
Awesome video . Very good info and I'm glad you have brought up the clutch slip valve this is the next mod I am looking to do
These tips are worth so much money... Thank you, All very good...
Any suggestion on front suspension dampening?
Love the videos but I have just one little nit to pick. The change in volume from when you're speaking which is a bit low to the transition music which is much louder has me constantly tinkering with the volume slider.
Do we want our front end to lift when we floor it or do we not want it to lift?
67psi or 6-7 psi
Maryland. Good track and good prep.
Hey man your videos are fantastic!! always proffesional, and concise with your build videos, Keep up the good work bro
Hell yes run them bolts down!! Especially if you have solid mounts. That will play a huge role on what bolts get loose
any suggestion on spring rates for suspension? planning on switching to a 2 way adjustable shock sorta like the strange shocks and curious what spring rates ppl go with
These videos are great. Quick question though: Do you think the Tilton clutch slipper may in some cases may actually increase the E.T.'s of a car that is otherwise well dialed in...because even the the minute time the clutch is slipping...that is power not going to the ground instantly? Thank you. I realize the pros probably outweigh the cons.
Awesome topic! Music is a little loud...
I agree my ears are still trying to recover 🙏🙉💧
have you ever tried the Magnus Clutch valve? and how much of and adjustment you have to use before you see the clutch start slowing down? im wanting to try one for a street car that go out on the weekend to have a lil fun. thanks in advance
Awesome advice thanks.
Very solid tips.
You going to Honda day this weekend?
what unit did you serve in?? You look fimilar i beleiev we served in kuwait together? Army aviation
Awesome informative video! For the wheels, did you go with those specifications for both front and rear? Thanks
What are the specs on the j series behind you? interested in the intake.
Great video.
Anyone knows how a fwd honda springs should be in the front an rear if should the front be stiff or soft & should the rear should be soft or stiff?
I wish this was more centered around a stock or mostly stock car
you say that best choice for 13" wheels is a tire with 13x10 width or the wheels must be also 13"x 10j???? both must be 13x10?? or is a must tyre be 13x10 and wheels can be 13x7 -13x8???
The wheel is 13x10 tires range between 24 to 25 inches tall and between 9 to 10 inches wide
when you were speakin on negative camber is this strategy adaquate to drag radials such as r888 or is this specifically for all out slicks only?
This is for any tires
Great video 👌🏾
Great tips just subscribed to ur channel. Did u say 67 psi i thought good tire pressure was around 8 to 12 psi for slicks.
6-7 psi, I spoke too quickly sorry for the confusion.
@@EvansTuning nice thanks for clarifying. Dang now iam wonering what to gap my spark plugs on my all motor setup. I've never messed with spark plugs or bother to check the gap at the track . what spark plug would u reccomend on a 270 300 na set up. No wonder it would fall flat at the top end goin down the track
If its a Honda engine normally NGK BKR8EIX or BKR9EIX plugs are sufficient, plug gap between 0.022~0.028" works well.
@@EvansTuning sounds good thanks apprecite it. And yeah its an h series motor
What is a slipper valve ?
Yeah I’m probably only gonna use this for fm7 but thx 👍
Thank you
What about tire pressure for guys running their every day tires and wheels? For instance, I run 19" 245's...Typically I run 37 psi for day to day driving. How much lower for a decent launch? Kinda new to the FWD thing....
sorryociffer
He said like 6-7 psi?
That seems super low for non slicks, so I guess yeah.
Great tips, thank you :-)
Did you say 6 to 7 psi or 67 psi?
Chris Richards I think it's 6-7 psi so u don't die.
Jeff, have you tried the blue loctite (10:01 in video) on the flywheel bolt? I found it makes it way easier when you need to remove the bolt...
Or just use red locktite and call it a day.
Blue Loctite for flywheels and flexplates? Have you seen a flywheel bolt shoot through a header tube? Red Loctite. Can't get it loose? Use heat, it's that simple.
Yes i am trying to win a race against my mate with my moms car, whatabout it
Rear wheel tips coming soon? And how can i find that kingsler intake manifold
rwd tips not needed. youre already powering the right set of wheels.
Most important thing. Keep them light. Which ever tyre width will give you the least rolling resistance is depending on weight.
👍💯
What turbo kit would you recommend for a 94 integra with an LS VTEC for 300whp
Max Herman
Also, no VTEC on chevy V8.
Jay Edlington honda b18b1 is called LS. Its a nonvtec motor. They have a kit to convert LS into vtec. So its called lsv or ls vtec
What turbo kit would you recommend for a 94 integra with an LS VTEC for 300 whp?
Max Herman
Google that shit man...
Or go find a shop to do it for you.
That's easy. To go faster you do this. Go online and put that car up for sale. Then get an RWD car.
The featured car was a RWD s2000
Slip clutch valve? Didn't the 05-06 rsx type s use a delay valve? And why do people swap out the cmc and slave. What u said about shocking the driveline just justify what I've been saying to others and didn't believe me. Ur info/statements put me at ease on my cars :)
02-06 rsx's all use a chamber on the cmc to slow fluid. Slowing down the movement on the pedal engagement to the clutch every time is far different than everything a proper clutch release valve system will do. Something like a ktuned cmc and a magnus clutch release valve would be the best setup to go with.
K.I.S.S I live by that now someone said that to me years ago and it stuck with me.
just confirming he said 6 to 7 not 67psi
Did I hear 67 psi?
Did he say 6 to 7 psi its not 67psi
Anthony Hernandez 6 to 7 psi
67 psi?????? 4,6 Bar?? I usual run with 0,5 bar. Around 8 psi.
jørgen zobel 6-7 psi, not 67 lol
uhhhhh!
67psi?
4.x bar??? holy shit I thought they run on low pressure around 2 bar and 30something psi
He said 6 to 7 meaning 6 or 7psi but its hard to hear him and sounds like 67.
I think you'll blow the tyre at those psi.
this guy has the same voice as the narrator in my head
your right arm is bigger than your left
Maby he is an arm wrestler
dude nitrous oxide is for the car not you. Xd jk you have that stoner face that I myself have
My 10 Tips and Tricks for Front Wheel Drive Drag Racing:
Step 1: Sell your FWD car.
Step 2: Buy a RWD car.
Steps 3-10: Enjoy all your new found traction and resulting drag racing wins.
also I was destroying some much heavier rwd cars at the strip last week sometimes fwd just works had bmws that had 660whp in my 330whp fwd hatch
Lol.. FWD cars may kind of suck off the line (on the street + street tires) but once they start hooking, the top end speed of a fast FWD is insane.
step one convert car to rwd
Either way fwd or rwd you'll get passed by awd ftw ;-)
Knowledge is key awesome advice💪🏽👊🏾🫡