The Old His of there area are cold blooded as hell to. Every 806 I ever ran needed a good snort to get it going in the morning. Same way with the 1206 too. I don't know what the deal is with that but they always ran good and had plenty of power for what we do. They always rolled black smoke too! haha
I operated first a 3020, then in later years three different 4020s including one FWA. Loved everything about them, the look, the sound, shifting, ease of steering, angle of the steering wheel, high platform and seat... Best tractors ever made IMO.
Hi Wes Being a Deere man i figured you'd know the story of bad starting when the sun goes behind the clouds, those older Deeres and some newer ones don't start good for some reason!. I've had bleed green and yellow die hard Deere guys, tell me that locally as well. I'm not going to lecture you on either theres no point your a smart guy and know how much is just enough and to much! i did figure that battery was near flat and it surprised me that she did fire up. Good luck on the crank bearings ,i hope she's not scored or picked up on the crank. That would be a shame. That old girl must be as old as you, Its 2 years older than me. i think thats what our age gap is between us 2 years I'm 40 . Regards Robert
I would check the fuel filter and air filter before opening up the engine. if the temp on the engine is not showing overheating the odds of the bearings getting tight is slim. most all oil systems have a filter bypass built in bobby bethel old machanic
Black smoke = engine low compression or worn out injectors pissing too much. if you have no glow plugs or grid heater it's normal for it to start with difficulty. Starting fluid is not good. piston rings take a huge stress because of the too quick combustion. Starting fluid is for gas engines working with spark. they have a lower compression ratio and can handle it. But when you cranck the engine you clearly can hear the compressions are uneven. the engine is hobbling.
True but that is what john deere intended with these for whatever reason, they have no grid heater or glow plugs, most have a little push thing under the steering wheel in which you shove the ether can into and it sends the ether directly to the intake manifold
What an awesome tractor even with her issues. I would LOVE to get my hands on a 4320. Love the channel, Wes! You're one of my all time favorite UA-camrs.
If your using Easy Start you should warm the can up with hot water, or a hot air gun so when its sprayed into the intake its a mist or vapour, spraying it in as a neat liquid is what jiggers the engine up. You could even use hair spray or WD40 as long as its a mist,
The thinness of the oil dripping from the dipstick suggests that at operating temp, the viscosity has dropped hard and your engine acting "tight" is actually becoming un-lubricated. A can of STP per four quarts of oil, should fix it, or at least help reduce it's tendency to tighten up some.
I would love to have that tractor down here in Chile. Could you flush it out with diesel or a cleaner that would remove the gunk and then put new oil in it?
U should definitely check cam bearings too another important passage of oil everyone tends to ignore which will take beaten and never build oil pressure correct if worn
Just a thought, you may want to get a hack saw and cut the ends off that old filter and pull the paper out. If you pull the paper out flat on a clean place ( white paper towel down first ) you can see what type of metal is in the filter, or if there is any metal at all. I have done this before and it gave me a good idea of what was going on with the tractor engine before I went to work on it. Good luck with the repair!
Why do Deere's love ether so much anyway, my grandfathers loader has the same motor as your 7810 I believe and it would need a healthy shot of liquid courage after sitting in the heated shop all weekend at 55, same goes with most Deere tractors/iron from the 80's/90's I've been around
Both old early 80s John Deere backhoes I worked with needed ether to start no way they would start without it. Interesting about the synthetic oil something to keep in mind.
Wes, I only skimmed comments, but I'm in school as an automotive tech, and the thing you have to watch on putting an old motor (looser tolerances) on synthetic oil (designed for tighter tolerances) is the top end will knock if it sets for any time at all because it's smaller more uniform molecules drain out of the heads, causing premature wear. I know you can fix it and probably know all this, but I figured since I'm about as up to date as they come at the moment on engine tech, if share what knowledge I have on it
Just have to love those synco shift JD had, always fun as kids to learn a new shift pattern when you went to your friends farms. We has IH with standard H-pattern another ran Deere's with power shift, power quads, and sycro's and the dentist's behind us had your favorite Oliver with the over under shift.
(Im guessing at a distance) so when you pull the sump off check the oil pick up as it may be partially blocked. it happens on old motors through mixing different grade oils or lack of changes. Also oil pressure relief valve gunked up or have a weak or broken spring too. That can give the same symptoms (low oil pressure). If the oil pickup has a mesh screen take it off the pump and put it in a bean tin with some gas and set it alight and let it burn the oil off. It will turn to carbon and be easier to clean without wrecking the fine mesh.
flush it first put a few pints of paraffin in with engine oil run it drop the oil refill and try it again before stripping the bottom end out also just inspect the big ends and mains wes just in case its something else holding it back you do great videos
I had an engine do the same thing last year. Filter plugged up, blobs of gunk in the pan. Pulled the oil pan drain plug off and nothing came out! Stuck my finger in the drain hole and pulled out a blob of gunk. Turned out to be coolant slowly seeping into the oil gallery from a crack around a head bolt. It only happens when the coolant system is pressurized. The water evaporated out leaving the ethylene glycol behind which gelled the engine oil.
Im almost certain that John Deere original oil filters have a bypass relief valve at the bottom end of the oil filter, so if the filter plugs the oil gets through, More likely to be the oil pump filter gauze that's blocked,
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the old 4320's have 2 oil pumps? Since you're going to do the main and rod bearings, check the wrist pins as well. She does sound good. The old 2 cylinder and 10/20 series were always good tractors from JD.
Won't take to long to pull the pan and clean it cheaper than ten filters and oil and you'll know what you have good video Wes it will make a good video
Cool video! Love the sound of the old john deeres! How long have yall been quit milking? could you do a video of the inside of the barn and milking parlor?
sounds pretty good for a 42 year old tractor I had this same thing happen to a 1989 ford ranger I bought in june of 2013 I bought it with 98k original miles and the oil was horrible ,nasty,and it was sludged up terribly ,, well stupid me I changed the oil and used full synthetic oil ,, well I had exactly the same thing you are dealing with on your 4320 deere ,, it sat for 3 months after the oil change and all that crap ended up in the pan and plugged up the oil pickup screen I have to pull the engine out of it and put new bearings in the engine due to the making a little noise ,, I parked it as soon as this happened so hopefully I didn't permanently damage the engine
Hope you get it figured out Wes. I did notice one other problem though. I know this is going to hurt alot when i tell you and i'm sure you already know. I think the old girl is going to need some new shoes. MORE DAMN TIRES!!!! LOL!
do not put synthetic oil in an older motor--a mechanic did it to one of mine and it cleaned all the carbon from rings etc--now the mongrell thing has gone from using no oil in 10 000ks to using a litre per hundred ks... I could kill the sob
ether is like heroin, once they get use to it, they want it everytime. Crank the steering wheel back and forth while cranking, it works wonders. (from an old timer)
I guess it relieves some pressure on the hydraulic pump. On a related note, I remember the power steering disappeared when you were reversing carefully on the clutch. My dad still uses her regularly...
i think that you have ruined your piston rings whit the starting fluid, and that's why they are not starting good. If i can start my -55 nuffield in -30c without any heating or starting fluid or shit, whit only 1 cylinder that had proper compression i bet that all famous jhon deere should start with just the as good :)
42 years ago, they never had the machining tolerances of today's modern engine, so you shouldn't put pish thin synthetic oil into an old engine because the crank can't hold the oil to build up pressure bud.
sounds like the pan will be full of gunge and as wyliecyote says the oil pickup screen is most likely plugged up as well thats my diagnosis hope im correct if iam give me a shoutout user name is the cyclist
I have a 4320, there great!
The Old His of there area are cold blooded as hell to. Every 806 I ever ran needed a good snort to get it going in the morning. Same way with the 1206 too. I don't know what the deal is with that but they always ran good and had plenty of power for what we do. They always rolled black smoke too! haha
I operated first a 3020, then in later years three different 4020s including one FWA. Loved everything about them, the look, the sound, shifting, ease of steering, angle of the steering wheel, high platform and seat... Best tractors ever made IMO.
Hi Wes Being a Deere man i figured you'd know the story of bad starting when the sun goes behind the clouds, those older Deeres and some newer ones don't start good for some reason!. I've had bleed green and yellow die hard Deere guys, tell me that locally as well. I'm not going to lecture you on either theres no point your a smart guy and know how much is just enough and to much! i did figure that battery was near flat and it surprised me that she did fire up. Good luck on the crank bearings ,i hope she's not scored or picked up on the crank. That would be a shame. That old girl must be as old as you, Its 2 years older than me. i think thats what our age gap is between us 2 years I'm 40 .
Regards Robert
I would check the fuel filter and air filter before opening up the engine. if the temp on the engine is not showing overheating the odds of the bearings getting tight is slim. most all oil systems have a filter bypass built in
bobby bethel old machanic
Black smoke = engine low compression or worn out injectors pissing too much.
if you have no glow plugs or grid heater it's normal for it to start with difficulty.
Starting fluid is not good.
piston rings take a huge stress because of the too quick combustion.
Starting fluid is for gas engines working with spark.
they have a lower compression ratio and can handle it.
But when you cranck the engine you clearly can hear the compressions are uneven.
the engine is hobbling.
True but that is what john deere intended with these for whatever reason, they have no grid heater or glow plugs, most have a little push thing under the steering wheel in which you shove the ether can into and it sends the ether directly to the intake manifold
+sstroh08 what your case fan not jd
black smoke if it dous it vrom the day the bought it its normal
michaelovitch older john deere tractors always blow smoke with the mechanical fuel pump it was how they aided cold starts
the old allis-chalmers I grew up with never needed juice unless it was below 0
What an awesome tractor even with her issues. I would LOVE to get my hands on a 4320. Love the channel, Wes! You're one of my all time favorite UA-camrs.
If your using Easy Start you should warm the can up with hot water, or a hot air gun so when its sprayed into the intake its a mist or vapour, spraying it in as a neat liquid is what jiggers the engine up. You could even use hair spray or WD40 as long as its a mist,
The thinness of the oil dripping from the dipstick suggests that at operating temp, the viscosity has dropped hard and your engine acting "tight" is actually becoming un-lubricated. A can of STP per four quarts of oil, should fix it, or at least help reduce it's tendency to tighten up some.
I would love to have that tractor down here in Chile. Could you flush it out with diesel or a cleaner that would remove the gunk and then put new oil in it?
Hey Wes are you guys located near spring lake New Jersey I have to go there this weekend never been before
I know this is an old video but those 20 series tractors start better if you turn the wheel back and forth while cranking, some kinda pump it frees up
I don't think theres enough winter for all the projects you have coming up...ha!
pickup on the oil pump is stopping up with gunk is why it is getting tight. drop the pan clean it should be good to go :)
U should definitely check cam bearings too another important passage of oil everyone tends to ignore which will take beaten and never build oil pressure correct if worn
I see the old oliver is awaiting it journey out in the pasture..good vid wes.
First John Deere I ever drove was a 4320.
Love the 4320 that's probably the favorite on our farm too.. That old green iron last forever
I grew up learning to drive the tractor with a 4020 with the hiniker all weather cab, I miss those days
John Deere filters are made by Donaldson. There is a visible difference between the "Deere" filter and a Baldwin filter.
did the same w/jd4020 switched to a toilet paper filter and rebuilt oil pump. Saved alot on
filters
Do a video on the buffalo. Yes it is a buffalo. He pointed it out in the "replacement tractor" video.
Just a thought, you may want to get a hack saw and cut the ends off that old filter and pull the paper out. If you pull the paper out flat on a clean place ( white paper towel down first ) you can see what type of metal is in the filter, or if there is any metal at all. I have done this before and it gave me a good idea of what was going on with the tractor engine before I went to work on it. Good luck with the repair!
Those 4320 clutch videos were the first videos I watched on your channel. Been a sub ever since!
Hey can you do a update on the old tractor. I lust got a 1949 John Deere A.
Your enthusiasm for this project seems less than infectious.
Good luck
I could watch you start your tractors and take them for a drive to the hay stack and back all day long! Just gotta love Diesel Power
hi wes how about a rant on Ebola ?? wot are your thoughts on this.
Good to see you got the 4320 going again Wes! I hope you continue to work on it and get it put back into service again!
ahogy az az ülés kinéz, én bele nem ülnék az biztos! Ez a traktor nagyon el van hanyagolva.
Why not cut open the oil filter & inspect contents?
Why do Deere's love ether so much anyway, my grandfathers loader has the same motor as your 7810 I believe and it would need a healthy shot of liquid courage after sitting in the heated shop all weekend at 55, same goes with most Deere tractors/iron from the 80's/90's I've been around
Should this maybe be a cool tractor for the haywagon or is it not powerfull anoug srry for bad english by the way
Greetz from the Netherlands
Man its fun going back in the videos once and a while
Both old early 80s John Deere backhoes I worked with needed ether to start no way they would start without it. Interesting about the synthetic oil something to keep in mind.
Wes, I only skimmed comments, but I'm in school as an automotive tech, and the thing you have to watch on putting an old motor (looser tolerances) on synthetic oil (designed for tighter tolerances) is the top end will knock if it sets for any time at all because it's smaller more uniform molecules drain out of the heads, causing premature wear. I know you can fix it and probably know all this, but I figured since I'm about as up to date as they come at the moment on engine tech, if share what knowledge I have on it
Just have to love those synco shift JD had, always fun as kids to learn a new shift pattern when you went to your friends farms. We has IH with standard H-pattern another ran Deere's with power shift, power quads, and sycro's and the dentist's behind us had your favorite Oliver with the over under shift.
(Im guessing at a distance) so when you pull the sump off check the oil pick up as it may be partially blocked. it happens on old motors through mixing different grade oils or lack of changes. Also oil pressure relief valve gunked up or have a weak or broken spring too. That can give the same symptoms (low oil pressure). If the oil pickup has a mesh screen take it off the pump and put it in a bean tin with some gas and set it alight and let it burn the oil off. It will turn to carbon and be easier to clean without wrecking the fine mesh.
Hope you get to restore her
Love the old tractors!!! Looked like it was a nice smooth ride! Put the old girl back in to action
flush it first put a few pints of paraffin in with engine oil run it drop the oil refill and try it again before stripping the bottom
end out also just inspect the big ends and mains wes just in case its something else holding it back you do great videos
hey, just wanted to ask you where do you take your old oil ? do you use a oil burner system or take it somewhere
Great video as always Wes. I would like to see a few videos on corn and soybean harvest. By the way we are picking corn in Indiana.
whats the story on the bison ??
Do you know if the pump got turned up on the tractor?
Is that a Farmhand F-258 loader bracket?
Wow your good!!! Yes it is
I had an engine do the same thing last year. Filter plugged up, blobs of gunk in the pan. Pulled the oil pan drain plug off and nothing came out! Stuck my finger in the drain hole and pulled out a blob of gunk. Turned out to be coolant slowly seeping into the oil gallery from a crack around a head bolt. It only happens when the coolant system is pressurized. The water evaporated out leaving the ethylene glycol behind which gelled the engine oil.
cut your plugged filters open and see whats in them
Ok...Totally off the subject. You have a buffalo? Guess I missed that video.
What happened to the H in one of your old videos?
Im almost certain that John Deere original oil filters have a bypass relief valve at the bottom end of the oil filter, so if the filter plugs the oil gets through, More likely to be the oil pump filter gauze that's blocked,
maybe replace new motor oil next when you like screw up new filtter
despite the oil issue it still sounds good, nice to see it runnin
was that a buffalo???
Yep. He has a buffalo
while you have the pan off change or clean the oil pump pick up.( screen could be clogged)
How did we not know you have bison?
Correct me if I'm wrong but didn't the old 4320's have 2 oil pumps? Since you're going to do the main and rod bearings, check the wrist pins as well. She does sound good. The old 2 cylinder and 10/20 series were always good tractors from JD.
I like that old tractor plus we got a 3020 and that goes pretty well
Flush it with some diesel , drop the pan and inspect the bottom end and oil pump
Ive washed engines out with Diesel fuel as well. Will clean some crud of out of a engine.
You own bison(s)? Kinda of new, just wondering what do you grow mainly and do you do cattle at all?
Won't take to long to pull the pan and clean it cheaper than ten filters and oil and you'll know what you have good video Wes it will make a good video
its a used car lot back there
Was that a bison?
I think that there was a bison, or a cow that borrowed some clothes
didn't know he ad them on his farm.cows can be weird like that though..
Is this possibly a restoration project?
Great video Wes. I really enjoy watching your videos. Did you make any plans for the plow day you proposed on your earlier videos?
hey let me know if you ever want to sell it
Cool video! Love the sound of the old john deeres! How long have yall been quit milking? could you do a video of the inside of the barn and milking parlor?
dont john deer have engine heaters ???
they have block heaters but no preheat
now the have but
ah block heater dous not make it eseyer to stort
sounds pretty good for a 42 year old tractor
I had this same thing happen to a 1989 ford ranger I bought in june of 2013
I bought it with 98k original miles and the oil was horrible ,nasty,and it was sludged up terribly ,, well stupid me I changed the oil and used full synthetic oil ,, well I had exactly the same thing you are dealing with on your 4320 deere ,, it sat for 3 months after the oil change and all that crap ended up in the pan and plugged up the oil pickup screen I have to pull the engine out of it and put new bearings in the engine due to the making a little noise ,, I parked it as soon as this happened so hopefully I didn't permanently damage the engine
was that a buffalo at the begining of the ride?
I'm glad I'm not the only one, thought I was going crazy! Def looked like a bison to me at 4:24
I bet
Ya she's old as crap
hi wes I love your movies! and i'm a big fan of you, is that 4320 for sale?
greets from wouter
the netherlands
Hope you get it figured out Wes. I did notice one other problem though. I know this is going to hurt alot when i tell you and i'm sure you already know. I think the old girl is going to need some new shoes. MORE DAMN TIRES!!!! LOL!
Ha ha yes I did know that
onelonleyfarmer Where did you get your bead breaker?
Terry Presnal
Its not too tractor in a bad state sitting right there
do not put synthetic oil in an older motor--a mechanic did it to one of mine and it cleaned all the carbon from rings etc--now the mongrell thing has gone from using no oil in 10 000ks to using a litre per hundred ks... I could kill the sob
That poor tractor is kept outside and then blasted with starting fluid.
Is the website up yet
whos buffalo is that?
I spent most of my time checking out the Jeeps. ;)
Hey, onelonleyfarmer love your videos, check out my 1954 John Deere 60 on my channel if you've got a minute Thanks.
Never use synthetic oil in an old engine that has had regular oil! All engines I have done it on brokedown. :-(
ether is like heroin, once they get use to it, they want it everytime. Crank the steering wheel back and forth while cranking, it works wonders. (from an old timer)
We always had to do the steering waggle on our 4020 to help her out
You must have seen me wiggle the wheel to get her going :)
I didn't see it. If I would've, I wouldn't have mentioned it.
Gee Dubb 'm curious how does that help?
I guess it relieves some pressure on the hydraulic pump. On a related note, I remember the power steering disappeared when you were reversing carefully on the clutch. My dad still uses her regularly...
"smoked black" us new kids call that roaling coal, haha nice tractor
i think that you have ruined your piston rings whit the starting fluid, and that's why they are not starting good.
If i can start my -55 nuffield in -30c without any heating or starting fluid or shit, whit only 1 cylinder that had proper compression i bet that all famous jhon deere should start with just the as good :)
Hope you can get the old girl figured out :)
Is that a Bison/Buffalo at 4:24?
42 years ago, they never had the machining tolerances of today's modern engine, so you shouldn't put pish thin synthetic oil into an old engine because the crank can't hold the oil to build up pressure bud.
sounds like the pan will be full of gunge and as wyliecyote says the oil pickup screen is most likely plugged up as well
thats my diagnosis hope im correct if iam give me a shoutout user name is the cyclist
Can you make a vidio on the first field of soybeans