How I TIG Weld Stainless Downpipes | With Machine Setup
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
- TIG welding stainless steel exhaust pipe. 3/32 tungsten 1/16 308l TIG rod Eastwood TIG200 Digital Welder.
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Thank you for your honesty to pointed out also mistakes so we also can learn from you, I am 62 years young, tool and die maker just learning to TIG as a hobby, Lord bless you and your family !!! You doing great !
Looks good. A few tips:
Get you some solarflux so you don’t have to waste gas on the vbands.
Try smaller filler. Probably .040 stainless mig wire.
Something like that, i’d be welding around 90 amps. A bit less as it gets hot. But you have to be able to move fast. It takes a bit of practice but it makes a big difference on stainless.
Clean the tubing and the filler with alcohol before welding and wear a glove in the filler hand.
Even tho its thin wall tubing, try adding a small bevel. It makes the welds flatter and neater.
Nothing wrong with that you have going on there, but just tips that will help with consistency and speed.
The Army Corps of Engineers paid for me to go to 3 weeks of welding school recently- and I got more out of watching your videos and reading the comments section on them. Looking forward to the finished product once again ripping down the dragstrip 👍
If that is a FUPA 12 cup you have to use 20 to 25 cfh. It will give you more beautiful results. A little bit of more seconds of post flow will help you get cleaner welds too. Maybe like 10 secs. But you are doing great. Good job bro. Keep it up!
I continue to watch your channel because you are the type of guy who likes to increase his knowledge to better himself, without ever claiming to be “the man”, or trying to show off his success, while hiding his failures. Who gets smarter from hiding their failures !? Well done my friend ! Great video as usual !
Thank you.
@@BlaserBuilds Your Welcome my friend.
You’ve really came along ways, stainless tig is so much better looking then Mig aluminized, looking forward to getting a tig and redoing my hot side in stainless in the near future.. great content here!
you say you're not a welder but coulda fooled me. you have better technique than a lot of pro welders. definitely have some welding talent.
Thanks 👍
These look really good! I’m still very new to tig, and I’m just about at the point I get what’s going on, every time I practice I get better and better. Keep it up!
I have about the same experience with TIG, but been welding MIG for many years. One thing I do as a practice to help with any distortions, using my tacks as starting places, alternate from side to side with my welds, as opposed to continuing around all the way around. I'll run a 1/2 to 3/4 inch bead, flip over 180, do another, turn 90 degrees, another, flip again, another, repeat till all is filled in.
Nice!
You explained the key hole effect pretty good 👍 and with drawings
you have a better feeding technique than my boss and he combo welded for the last 10 years lol
Awesome Content! I'm looking forward to seeing the cool stainless hole saw and whether it works. Keep up the great stuff!
You actually want flow, through your tube, while purging. Should put a small hole in the cap side. I use .045 wire on tubes and 1/16 on v bands. 1/16 tungsten works a little better, under 100 amps, too.
Looking good, though.
CFH is usually double the cup size, too. ;)
Your welds look great to me!
I realize this is 2 years ago but you did say to add hints. I noticed during your post flow that you would pull your filler rod away. Leave that filler rod in the post flow as it needs protection as it cools as well.
@grantensrud9185 That's a good point, never really thought of that. Thanks.
with gaps as tight as yours you could probably get away with using .035 or .045 wire . for that #12 cup its recommended 20-30cfh . the rest looks amazing , have used that layzer tungsten from CK and its super stable for dc and ac welding
if you are welding .055 wall just use the 10% over amp per thou rule and the foot pedal, you could use more heat from what it looks like, solid welds still.
Hey! Welds look good! You might want to advance your torch angle when going around the curve of the tube. You start good but as you go along, the angle becomes drastic, almost 45 degree. This can cause cold welds, as the filler melts before you can put it in puddle.
I notice that when editing the video. In my head I feel like I'm correcting it, but clearly not very well per the video, lol.
@@BlaserBuilds if you are self aware of this, then it's all that's needed. Means that you'll remember to account for that when you think that you're right on while welding. I'm not a pro welder myself, but it's real easy to spot mistakes when watching someone else. I bet my angles are all over the place as well.
@@kristapsliepnieks9949 Thats one reason I like to record, easy to spot mistake i cant see myself.
Great video. Thanks
Dude, that's perfect. 😀 But I understand, it's always good to want to improve.
Looks really good!
We need some more welding content on yours, too.
@@gravely1000 sooner or later,.I'll get back to it. Been pretty focused on learning some trading with Ryan's help!
@@diygaragetx all good, need a bob update and such. Glad your making life happen!
Very good video!!!
What do you use to cut your pipe? Grinder or band saw?
It would be nice to see how you cut the tubing, next time.
I just use a porta band band saw, on a swag table. Then belt sander.
Does the tubing slip into the v band, or is that a butt weld?
tighten your beads up just a bit with less filler and more heat I think you'll like the result, more flush finish.
What wall thickness? And what kind of SS is this if you don’t mind me asking?
I believe it's 304. And a true .065... I ordered the pieces from stainless bros on ebay.
Why the name change on the channel?
👍
Im doing the same thing as you same welder in all right on brother on the beads when start and stoping start a head of the last bead the back track and dip and carry on