Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
I just used my new LN No.62 LA Jack today for the first time. It's the first quality plane I've bought for myself. Lie-Nielsen knows how to make outstanding tools, no regrets.
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster. It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it! Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring. Brilliant! Many many thanks, mate!
Another benefit to a scraper plane: I’m a luthier primarily. If you need to thickness figured stock, the scraper blade is fantastic. I also use a no. 62 with an iron regroups to make it a high angle plane for this job.
I agreed with your assessment on the bench planes with the exception of the #7, I didn’t hear you mention the #6 which is actually my choice as the step between the 5 1/2 an 8. Lots of information in short time. bravo.
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it." Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5. Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it. Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator. Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host. Keep it up.
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool. BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie. I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight. I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up. I prefer the low angle block planes, too. I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different. Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose. But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one. Understanding is key, not just following advice.
I think your recommendations are spot on. The one plane that just gathers dust in my kit is the scrub plane. As soon as I got a power planer I knew I'd never use it again.
I can't survive without my router plane. Superb. I have not yet been convinced by my shoulder plane, which is a little smaller than yours but not tiny.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just getting started in proper woodworking (basic dovetail boxes for some gifts) and I needed to get a plane to clean up the proud parts, so it looks like a #4 or #5 bench plane will do me, which people have said, but now I know why, and now I know that I should get a low angle one rather than the standard angle. Thank you :)
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
Thanks so much for this video. I am just getting started picking out my hand tools for woodworking and have hesitated picking up planes due to lack of knowledge. This was very informative and helps a ton in my decision making!
A huge thank you man !!! I've been looking around to buy my first planes for months now and I never managed to find a decent explanation on the differences and use of all the those different planes... You're video is just the best explanation I've ever seen :o
Router plane and rebate plane before shoulder plane. I like to mark tenons with the router, set depth stop, split waste with a chisel and then clean them with the router in shallow passes.
I agree with your selection. I have a #4 and a homemade block plane and a old cheap plane I converted into a scrub plane. I really wished I had a 7 or 8 for jointing though.
Great that you narrowed them to only two! I own the Veritas starter planes; low angle jack, low angle block and small smoother and can tell you they work great! Would love to have a bit more weight on the smoother though.
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
Hey guys and gals, the low angle jack plane is for end grain just like the low angle block plane. For wood that tears out(like curly maple or wood with knots) a scraper plane works great like Stanley #112.
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
Great channel. Loved your Roubo bench video. Only realised when watching this video that you are English. Nice to see an Englishman capable of giving the American woodworkers a run for their money!
As a person who bought way too much planes at the beginning, I really like your approach here. Of course some people will disagree (for example I would prefer no. 4 or no. 5 as my first bench plane) and there are also other things to consider (like buying old used planes), but this is a great video in contrast to "let me show you those basic 15 planes that you absolutely need at the beginning" videos.
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Great video Matt, thank you. I've got two #4's that were passed down to me, a low angle block, a small shoulder and a #6 on its way from ebay as we speak.
If you get a decent router plane there is a fence with it so you can use it as a shoulder plane. Not a good shoulder plane but unless you are doing a lot of shoulders, it is sufficient to get by. Not having a router plane is a pain as you only have the option of using a chisel then, not by any means ideal.
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: ua-cam.com/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/v-deo.html&t
Please post links to the two must-haves from the final seconds, if that's possible.
No.
Amazing job brother
Hi matt I was pretty rude to you in a previous video. I was out of order and apologise. For your age your an impressive young man.
Stay safe
Perfect video Matt, logical, no nonsense no fluff, just the facts and ended up with two very sensible all round planes at the end. This will have saved some people a ton of money.
I have worked in the industry for decades, I agree with your choice of planes as a basic set. I have a variety of bench planes, but only really use the 4, 5 and 7. But it all depends on the type of work you do. Larger work requires longer planes. The cabinet scraper is a very useful tool, simply hone the blade, and leave the burr on the back edge (this is what cuts the thin shavings), set the blade level with the sole, clamp it in place, the use the set screw to advance the burr till it cuts. The Router Plane is very useful if you don’t use an electric router, I use mine for housing joints. I didn’t see a rebate/plough plane…..I use a 1960s Record 405 multi plane for grooves and simple mouldings, I prefer this over an electric router….less noise 😂 And it looks impressive on your bench 😊
Can I send you some beer money or something? These have been some of the most informative videos in this subject matter I've seen yet. Objective opinions based on experience and real world applications, and refusing to talk about things you don't feel you're a subject matter expert on. Thanks a bunch.
Brandon That’s what Patreon is there for. Link in the description.
I have watched a good number of your videos and really enjoy your approach. My Father was teaching me fine woodworking as I was his "go for" on remodeling jobs and was basically a rough carpenter with some strong suits say for example reattaching plaster when the keys broke away from the lathe and repairing holes of all shapes and sizes. After he passed away I dropped the idea because I had no mentor. I have chosen you as my mentor because you are direct and unlike many other presenters you realize that not all of us are going to recognize the tool you are using and your explanations are clear and concise when you pull out a hand tool that we may never have seen let alone used. You also have a casual way of presenting your subject matter and I it feels like I'm one of your mates and you are just explaining how something works. I really appreciate the fact that you treat we inexperienced people with respect and don't talk down to us. Please don't change your approach, your doing a great job and have been of great help to me as I tackle my first and a rather large and somewhat overwhelming project that needs to be done.
I agree with Gary K - appreciate the way you explain the differences, then cut through all the confusion and recommend the most basic for those who want a simple starting point.
Well done! Your videos are getting more enjoyable to watch, don't stop being you and your approach. I watch your videos not only to learn things, but hear your perspective and approach. If you become too sterile or plain, I probably will stop watching. It is very clear that your presenting yourself in a sincere fashion, this is who you are, and you are not trying to be something your not... keep it up! Big fan.
"size doesn't matter, just get the one that fits your hand the best" ;)
Said the vicar to the nun
That what she said 🙋
I just used my new LN No.62 LA Jack today for the first time. It's the first quality plane I've bought
for myself. Lie-Nielsen knows how to make outstanding tools, no regrets.
Haven't done woodworking for years but Matt's way of presenting and selecting works well, straight facts and views from experience. Odd about what I knew as a spokeshave, but then really a specialist tool for curved pieces of work.
First plane I ever bought was a LN #1. While many think it’s a toy, I find it useful as a detail model plane for work on foundry patterns. While you could go to a violin plane or finger plane I have found the #1 my go to model plane. For general purpose use, I usually go for the jack. I had a Fulton #5 and recently a LN 5.5. While the 5.5 is a handful, it’s a nice combination of features going from smoothing to jointing.
I did residential construction for years, mostly concrete work. Did one house where they wanted a hand hewn look on some beams. The carpenter used a scrub plane. It worked very nicely for that.
Thank you for not giving the typical youtuber answer of “well it depends” I’m a beginner and I don’t always know what kind of work I’m gonna be doing. I’m trying to figure out what I like to build, and getting a straight forward answer of here these are the two to start with was just what I was looking for.
I always love the "PrEfErEnCe" videos. Yeah thanks mate. That's why I give you views for, like, your advice.
Finally an instructional video on hand planes that is actually understandable for beginners! I've watched half a dozen "so-called" instructional videos on hand planers and all of them were more "lets show-off my 80 planer collection and throw in my super technical woodworking lingo that only woodworking pros would/could understand." Thank you for keeping it dumb-simple. Keep it up!!!
On starting my Apprenticeship I purchased a Stanley 41/2 on advise off my journeyman, its my go to today and shows in its wear and tear and looks the better for it. I then added later in my apprenticeship a Stanley 51/2 again handling my journeyman plane and after serving my time I added a Stanley 6. In use I made do with this three in my daily use and made my money over the years with this three. I added a hand me down Stanley 4, not a purchase I would have made. I also have added a Block plane Stanley, Stanley Router plane open throat, Stanley Edge plane a gift from a retiring tradesman I worked with. Do you need to go more expensive makes, nice to have but in same sizes as I have I would not see any greater benefit and price is important even for a tradesman. I always gave more thought to how they fitted my hand and did they do the job I required and longevity.
I'm getting ready to take an intensive set of courses on woodworking, and the two must-have planes on their list are the two you finished off with: the low angle jack plane and the block plane. I'm only a woodworking weekend warrior, so it's good to see agreement on initial tool selection from two different sources.
If you can afford it I recommend the Lie-Nielsen low angle rebating jack plane as it will do the sides of tenons and you can even cut them with it. That said though it is quite expensive but not as expensive as the veritas equivalent
getting into hand tool woodworking and spent HOURS sifting the internet and youtube for information on where to start, and what each tool is for. This is by far the best, most concise, most efficient, least confusing, summerization of planes EVER. I only wish the youtube algorythm god had suggested it to me sooner.
Beginning wood worker. Went to a high end woodworking store to get plane advice. They had non idea how to guide me. This was indispensable.
You are my hero with everything I am learning in college right now
Bro! This had all the info I needed! I’m a jeweler building a jewelry bench. Like jewelry it sounds like quality tools is always the way to go. I needed to know what I needed and why, with out it being overly confusing. Thank you!
I quite admire your collection of tools watching your videos it’s quite amazing the amount of things you have accumulated over the years
NUTS. AND. BOLTS. No messing around and I really appreciate it, Mr. Matt. Nicely done.
As a carpenter I would choose a #4, #5 and a block plane first. Then a router plane and a slim shoulder plane or an outright combination plane.
@WungusBill a block plane can save you about 50% of the sandpaper you would otherwise use and smooth things out in one go a lot faster.
It's not just for taking edges off but can do so much more. It's one of those tools you might not know what to do with when you don't have it, but once you got it; it does become an essential tool in your box.
You're brilliant mate thanks for the tips!
Extremely helpful and demystifying. I've used mostly power tools most of my life, but apartment life has meant picking up more tools like this to create the work I want in the space I have. Needless to say, trying to figure out which plane(s) to buy has been a real struggle. This helped immensely.
Matt, I should post this on each of your videos, but it would be weird, wouldn't it!
Yours are the best videos in this field! Great contents, great editing, always intetesting, never boring.
Brilliant!
Many many thanks, mate!
Another benefit to a scraper plane:
I’m a luthier primarily. If you need to thickness figured stock, the scraper blade is fantastic. I also use a no. 62 with an iron regroups to make it a high angle plane for this job.
I agreed with your assessment on the bench planes with the exception of the #7, I didn’t hear you mention the #6 which is actually my choice as the step between the 5 1/2 an 8. Lots of information in short time. bravo.
I have the 4.5 Lie-Nielsen Smoother, and to accompany it I will buy the #7 Jointer plane. The reason is that they share the same blade. That way it is fewer blades to purchase or sharpen.
Thank you so much!! Have been trying to get a straight answer for weeks - and just just provided it!!
Quality! Glad it was helpful!
I only started getting hand planes because I saw one branded Winchester in an antique shop. Like the rifles. "Neat, what a cool old tool. I'll buy it."
Did a little research, and discovered it was something Winchester did (actually made by Sargent) to make ends meet in the interwar years. It was a 3010 smooth bottom plane, a little bigger than a Stanley #5.
Then I saw the next size down, a 3005 being sold for practically nothing... and it was in good shape. What the heck, I'll buy it.
Now I feel like I need a complete set. Even though I don't use hand planes. I've got a nice 6" jointer and a 15" thickness planer with a shelix head on it. What the heck do I need hand planes for? I dunno but I'm starting to feel like a plane addict.
Wonderful video, really shows how terrifying it is when you are starting out your shop and everyone has twelve thousand planes of names you've never heard. Now I know what two to get first.
When I built my workbench 20+ years ago, having a scrub plane (I bought a new ECE brand) and a big jointer (old Stanley #8) made flattening the top and front apron a lot easier. I wish I'd have had a router plane to neatly hog out an inset for the Record vise that I added at one end.
If you start a band, "Flash Bastard" has got to be the name.
Not sure if I would agree with the reason you thew out the No.5. However For just starting I agree the No. 62 (low angle jack) is better as it is easier for a novice to get working and start getting a feel for what wood is like under a plane.
You've answered questions I've had for years! Thanks man
I love your work and your videos. Ive been an auto tech for years and am getting into wood working and your knowledge is great to learn from.
Just found your channel and you sir have become my favourite content creator.
Good information, well filmed, no fluff just good solid information and enjoyable host.
Keep it up.
I exactly started with a block plane and later bought a low angle jack from veritas. I love that wide beastly plane :)
In the EOD Community, a shit-ton is a technical unit of measure. I really enjoyed hearing it when you were talking about the scrub plane.
I prefer the 4 ½ to the 4...the extra width makes for fewer passes, particularly while smoothing larger panels. The extra "beef," as you've stated, helps keep the plane to task.
Re. the scraper holder: Being an ex-boat carpenter I put a single sided edge on my scrapers and, if I remember correctly, that works well with the holder. They are a pain to set up though and I haven't used one in a while so that might require an edit. Cut the scraper edge at 45 degrees, then form the hook with the burnishing tool.
BTW, what you call a shoulder plane boat carpenters call a rabbet plane (and not a rebate plane), even the British boat carpenters I've worked with call them rabbet planes. No biggie.
I made up a scrub from a #5, too. You can pick up used #5's cheap and I like the weight.
I've never used a low angle jack plane, but it sounds like a good idea. Hmm, I've got parts... I wonder what I can rig up.
I prefer the low angle block planes, too.
I thought you might mention spokeshaves, but perhaps they're a little too different.
Excellent job, I agree with everything you said!
Great overview! Interesting how people have strong opinions about the low angle jack vs a 5 or 5 1/2. As a newbie, it's hard to choose.
You need to understand WHY people have the opinions that they do. If you just know Rob cosman likes bedrock 5 1/2 and someone else likes low angle jack you’re not gonna be able to choose.
But if you understand the arguments of why they like the low angle versus why they like the standard bedrock then you can make sense of it and choose one.
Understanding is key, not just following advice.
I think your recommendations are spot on. The one plane that just gathers dust in my kit is the scrub plane. As soon as I got a power planer I knew I'd never use it again.
Very excellent presentation! Well Done ! Mr Matt 👍. Love the Jack plane’s 12.5 degrees 😍
I can't survive without my router plane. Superb. I have not yet been convinced by my shoulder plane, which is a little smaller than yours but not tiny.
Great video, you really broke it down well and I appreciate that. Quality tools are the way to go but many those are expensive.
Thank you so much for this video. I'm just getting started in proper woodworking (basic dovetail boxes for some gifts) and I needed to get a plane to clean up the proud parts, so it looks like a #4 or #5 bench plane will do me, which people have said, but now I know why, and now I know that I should get a low angle one rather than the standard angle. Thank you :)
i should have gotten the low angle jack, it is true, it is more versatile, it can smooth and can also be fitted to be a scrub plane.
Veritas makes a scraping plane that I really like. It makes scraping easy and you can sharpen it like a normal plane blade. I am not good at using a card scraper and this tool makes scraping so easy.
"Its not like Pokemon, you dont have to catch them all" Ha ha!
Thanks so much for this video. I am just getting started picking out my hand tools for woodworking and have hesitated picking up planes due to lack of knowledge. This was very informative and helps a ton in my decision making!
Wish I watched this 3 years ago, cheers Matt
A huge thank you man !!! I've been looking around to buy my first planes for months now and I never managed to find a decent explanation on the differences and use of all the those different planes... You're video is just the best explanation I've ever seen :o
Router plane and rebate plane before shoulder plane. I like to mark tenons with the router, set depth stop, split waste with a chisel and then clean them with the router in shallow passes.
I agree with your selection. I have a #4 and a homemade block plane and a old cheap plane I converted into a scrub plane. I really wished I had a 7 or 8 for jointing though.
Fantastic video. Right on time for me. I'm in search of the right hand planes for my growing shop. Thank you.
Thank you so much, man. Seriously, low angle jack plane, block plane. I’m good
I just discovered your videos and now I just can't stop watching. Excellent stuff. Thanks so much!
Great that you narrowed them to only two! I own the Veritas starter planes; low angle jack, low angle block and small smoother and can tell you they work great! Would love to have a bit more weight on the smoother though.
For shop work i can't argue with you, except i personally prefer wider blades so tend to go for the 4 1/2 smoothing plane and 5 1/2 jackplane, not to worried about low angle planes, nice to have but most joiners and cabinet makers i have worked alongside don't have them(to expensive), I have never used a cabinet scraper although i own several, the hand router is just not used today because electric plunge routers are so good. shoulder plane another tool thats nice to have but i usually use a chisel on shoulders if needed. As a carpenter(my trade) and on site, its all about only carrying what you need, and although i used a jack plane during my apprenticeship, i only carry a 4 1/2 in my box/bag now, but an equal number of chippies I know use the number 4 for its lightness, but a lot of the time its just what your used to, for example i still use my yankee screwdriver when doorhanging although i carry a makita battery drill.
a 787 for long distance, a 737 for medium distance and a Cessna 172 for short distance. An a380 is also nice if you want to show off.
You can also just use an F/A-18 for everything...with optional KC-10 aerial refueling for long distance travel requirements. I'm interested in the FA-18 of woodworking planes, let me know when you figure out which one that is :D
Matt, your videos are incredibly informative! Thank you so much.
You will be able to do most things with a No. 4 jack (easily the most common), a No 7 jointing plane, a block plane, and scraping plane, and a set of chisels
rabbeting block plane is another lovely plane, great for cleaning up tenons etc.
To you need a scrub plane? It depends on whether: (1) you have a power joiner or not, and (2) do you start with lumber that is not s4s? I don't have a joiner. I do have a wonderful (real) lumber yard near by and can get rough lumber at half the cost of the "big box." With a scrub plane, a straight edge, and a smoother plane I can get 4' rough lumber ready for the thickness planer in minutes. As Matt said, a nice light scrub plane works like magic!
Thank you for the thorough explanation! This really helps for those of us starting out with (1) plane, and looking for what to do next. Well done.
I agree with your recommendations based on my own experience.
I enjoy your videos. I like the enthusiasm.
I love my old Stanley #8c. I've never used a #7.
Hey guys and gals, the low angle jack plane is for end grain just like the low angle block plane. For wood that tears out(like curly maple or wood with knots) a scraper plane works great like Stanley #112.
Good job bro! On a confidence scale, I give you 9.999 out of 10...
"It's not like Pokémon. You don't have to catch them all." 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you :) After hours of browsing the stores I figured out 2 things: 1. I have no idea what I need and 2. sadly my pockets are not deep enough to buy all I like ^_^
Drat. I came here hoping to learn more about my No. 6 Stanley and you left it out completely. Still enjoyed it, though.
Great channel. Loved your Roubo bench video. Only realised when watching this video that you are English. Nice to see an Englishman capable of giving the American woodworkers a run for their money!
Cheers Matt. Off to buy my first plane so.
As a person who bought way too much planes at the beginning, I really like your approach here. Of course some people will disagree (for example I would prefer no. 4 or no. 5 as my first bench plane) and there are also other things to consider (like buying old used planes), but this is a great video in contrast to "let me show you those basic 15 planes that you absolutely need at the beginning" videos.
Hi, what did you get that was "too much" ? ?
You're doing a great job dude, love your editing style. Gordan would be proud.
Matt, what about a number 6? I've got a block plane, #4 smoother, and just got two #6's, one of which I think I'll convert into a scrub plane, the other will be my smaller jointer plane
Love your videos, thanks for all your suggestions.
Clear, helpful explanations, especially for newbies. Thanks.
Great video Matt, thank you. I've got two #4's that were passed down to me, a low angle block, a small shoulder and a #6 on its way from ebay as we speak.
Good job Matt !
I found this video useful and consequentially expensive as well :)
The hand router plane used to be called ‘the granny’s tooth’ by one of the joiners who taught me.
One of your rather useful vids .Thanks
thnx for putting the cookies on the bottom shelf. great video
Well done. Thanks for doing this. You saved me a ton of time and money.
Thanks Matt! That answered a lot of questions.
Very good overview and recommendations.
If you get a decent router plane there is a fence with it so you can use it as a shoulder plane. Not a good shoulder plane but unless you are doing a lot of shoulders, it is sufficient to get by.
Not having a router plane is a pain as you only have the option of using a chisel then, not by any means ideal.
Excellent explanation! Thank you!
Thank you for an awesome, and very useful and timely video :) Now I know exactly what I need to get, and why!
Perfect - just what I needed. Thank you so much for making this vid! I’m off to shave some wood! :)
Thank you! Excellent presentation and most informative.
As many quality versions of each as you can afford. Otherwise, Spokes shave, 4, 7, 11/16 shoulder and router. Veritas does make a very mean block plane (the sleek new version) although I don't think it's necessary.
I think the blue is a reflection from your shop lights on oak ray flecks. Maybe a blue filter will work
I personally love my vintage stanley no5, its my main use plane
That was helpful. Thank you