Love the work rob. I’m a bricklayer from the USA and I show your videos at work. Love the projects, the information, and the update videos. Amazing work.
Rob, this is a great series of videos. "Level, gauge, plumb, range" has been consigned to memory and I feel empowered to tackle my home extension. I exaggerate of course, but feel ready to tackle the garden steps! Thanks for sharing.
excellent, I'm sure it will turn out good, just take your time. Remember, if it takes you 2 days, it will remain there for more years than we have left to live...so those 2 days are insignificant, enjoy doing it. thank you for watching
You are the BEST! I really appreciate your attention to detail and your philosophy of learning to do things the right way from the very beginning in order to develop good habits. One question: Why do you dip your bricks into water?
Back in the old days when l did my apprenticeship we learned this first I did gauged work massive inspection chambers lots of lovely bonds and technical work - working on site was like a war zone by comparison Its a lovely craft and watching you reminds me of the neat clean college
excellent video! you're pointers on where the place your fingers when adjusting bricks and the sequence of steps when laying bricks really helps. do you plan on doing a similar video on laying brick on the edge? i would love to see it!
Thank you for posting these videos. I was looking for advice on how to lay a brick wall to rest GFL floor joists on and found your channel. It is incredible watching you work. Like everything else years of experience make it look easy. Thank you
That was a test given test given to Me when I was 20 years old, only it was a bet with Our then teacher. The bet was who could get it correct, without using the the standard square template, gauge rod and level. The rack back coin, as We used to call it. It was done with 5 bricks though. I remember the pressure was on? Needless to say, I beat Him, it was near as damnit! Done by hand and eye! Brings back Memories! Bricklaying is a fine art, but does help if You have that natural eye for levels! Excellent video! 😁
Great video as always. One trick I was taught - when plumbing those initial courses a thin lath is useful to support the top of the level in the form of a "prop" making a triangle with the vertical level. This helps steady the level in the vertical plane and you can then concentrate on observing the relationship of level to brick. Hope that all makes some sort of sense.
plumbing down from lines in foundations the "old" prop technique is essential. Not sure how often I've been lucky enough to be able to use pencils in foundations. I think never.
@@jfdb59 Yes - the lath, about 600mm or so, is propped to the ground and held, by hand, tight in contact with the side of your level which is plumbing the brickwork. You have thus created a triangle which, with its support, helps keeps the level plumb. Without the support the lath the level is likely to rock around more and is harder to read. Give it a try and hopefully it will all come clear. Its a useful technique in plumbing the first few courses and helps get them truly plumb. Cheers.
@@barryhumphreys1894 ahhhh I get it now. The bottom stays planted and hand pressure maintains contact at the level and allows you to slide it was necessary for fine adjustment but without unwanted movement. That makes sense and seems like an idea I will try.
@@jfdb59 You’ve got it! It especially useful when try to plumb down from string lines when setting out foundation brickwork. It helps get the first course set out in the correct position on the concrete. Give it a try - best of luck. Cheers Barry
Yes lots of nick names 3/4 batman - saw it right in the middle of English bond on A bridge - perps running forward -messed it up - Robs fault keep seeing the mistakes now before I look at the job overall.....Learn by your mistakes but probably quicker to learn by others mistakes as well. 👍
Had a bricklayer do some work for me once upon a time. I asked him what tolerances he works to and he said as long as he's in the right garden that'll do lol
Love the tutorials, of course I’ve never laid a brick but want to learn and that’s why I’m here. Can someone explain what distance in the level, plumb, measure, range how far the bricks should be apart !!
I have been watching Rob for a while now, never laid a brick but I count as an armchair bricky. watch all his vids repeatedly, rob is an excellent tutor and everything you need to know is there. The beds and perps should be 10mm apart. The standard co-ordinating size for brickwork is 225 mm x 112.5 mm x 75 mm (length x depth x height). size of a brick 215 mm x 102.5 mm x 65 mm.
Hi. First of all I want to say thank you very much sir for having this much patience with in and second is that I want to build a brick fence at my home in Romania and need it someone to show me how it's done well. I'm not a constructor felow but the idea of paing 8 grand just for a contractor's work,has made me look for a differrent approach. Can't thank you enaugh sir. May God bless u.
10 years ago I build 14met.l-1.80h wall from scrapy bricks(30%bricks was fine, rest 3/4,1/2 and even a smaler chunks), every 2.5 met wall is reanforce with concret and steel bars because I thot wall is 14 met. long and we got strong winter winds here. My brother and cousins helped me with foundation and after I finished the wall they told me:wall Will fal down with end off first winter, and now 10 years later wall still standing and with pattina look better then new, so did you finish your fence because before that wall I newer worked with bricks in my life.
Bloody hell Rob this episode must be on early release as expected lesson 4 today or tomorrow but bringing back memories of 1992 in as much as the hydrated lime mortar and the triangle build last week as it was the first thing i built at college never used a tape in them days always told to use a gauging rod,the only bad memories of them days was taking down the walls after and cleaning of the lime mortar to reuse the bricks on the next project or phase test but have to say you are a exceptional teacher and you should open up The Rob Songer Bricklaying Training Centre
With the level along the centre of the bricks tapping the bricks off centre tilts them out of plum, plenty of bricklayers tap the level as they are pretty robust.
@@robsonger1 Sorry i don't agree, i think it's silly made up legalism. Watched plenty of bricklayers and have my c & g 's myself, worked on a few sites and have come to that conclusion, just get yourself a sturdy level, not one from a pound shop that floats in the bath.
Well Robert, I was taught by a great lecturer then I had the privilege of working alongside the best bricklayer I have ever seen...and both maintained.. "never, ever, hit your level. Its your most expensive hand tool, look after it" And to prove that point, you can now buy levels with shock absorbing covers so you can hit it and prolong its life a little longer.
@@robsonger1 The Ox Pro Spirit Level is claiming to be the strongest in the world, i think your 'word never' needs to apply to hitting ones wife not hitting the level with say the handle of the trowel. I watched a bricklayer once sitting in my car, he layed a flat bed and just placed the bricks, looked effortless. Anyway you continue knocking the bricks off plumb and then have to adjust them, fine with me.
Rob. Please can you do a video of how on how to stop my bricks hitching and grinning when running the line or any tips would be good ..I'm an apprentice and this would really help me out..
haha. It's a habit I've been trying to get out of myself. But it seems I'm always in some sort of contorted awkward working position which makes it difficult to see and address individual problems. So just easier and quicker to lightly tap the level. I mean that's why we have mason's level right?
Hi Rob, I love the content and quality of your videos & always look forward to a new one. Is it possible to buy your "twisted pier" former as one of my customer's would love a pair of twisted piers as gate posts. I'm up in Norfolk so could collect if you have a pair. Best Regards Tim
Hi Tim, unfortunately my manufacturer has the next batch ready for me but he has increased his price so that I no longer make any profit from selling them (my profit was absolute minimum) I could send you a short video I sent to someone else explaining how to make a wooden one if you want?
@@robsonger1 Hi Rob, really sorry to hear that. I would really appreciate it if you could send instructions. If you have a PayPal account I'll gladly pay for them. Have a great evening. Tim
In response to a few questions below the normal mix used by bricklayers these days is 4 sand 1 cement but don't forget the mortar mix to make it easier to use
Once again very informative video from you Rob. I learn a little bit more every time. 👍🏻 I was actually watching this wondering if your were going to mention about using the level on the diagonal to check for bond and boom there is was right at the end.
Rob I’m addicted your videos I think I might need counselling. You should have a donation link on your videos there just so good. I’ll gladly donate, I’ve learnt tonnes from your videos. Even all your comments are so professional, even when someone is talking utter b@ll@cks
thank you, that really made me smile...I'm here for free. if I can help a few people improve on their skills, if I can help a few realise this is a great trade, if some realise that this can be art, and what they build will still be here long after we are gone...so leave something that people will admire.... then I'll be happy
So you build 2 corners and run a line to build a wall? But then how do you know if it will be level? Do you need to level the first two bricks of a corner or what?Can someone help me out?
yes, that is correct. it will be explained in Lesson 5 soon...but for now, if you could watch "Victorian Weave" to give you an idea, you will see the first course set out, gauged and the level transferred to the other end.
Rob, thank you. I plan to match four existing brick pillars that hold up our 100yr old house covered front porch. We are adding to the porch to wrap around the left side of the house and need two more pillars. They will be about 8 feet tall. What is your advice on the best method for ensuring plumb? They will be square and about 30 inches wide. I will be setting a concrete footing with re-bar down below frost line (required by code here) and bring it up to level with the ground, then bricks. The concrete will extend out past the bricks two inches on all four sides (code). I am thinking I should use a vertical temporary wall that is U shaped to do three sides at a time with the wall on the outside (working from the inside), and then filling in the fourth side as I go up. I have all the tools and have building experience including a lot of concrete work, and am confident I can do a passable job. So any quick advice is appreciated. Thanks. I also plan to fill this in with concrete after it cures. I'll have some tabs on the inside so that the concrete can hold the bricks in place.
Its great seeing whole thing. One question, do you recommend using proper mixed mortar for practice? Just thinking in terms of cleaning up and take practice pieces down, cos i will have ago in my yard. Thanks for the effort once again
Use hydrated lime and building sand to 1:3, this just means it will be able to be taken down...you can reuse the bricks, but not the mortar as it will be lumpy...unless you you sieve it and break up the lumps.
Hi Mike, My grandsons have been practicing with three to one sand and hydrated lime with plenty of washing up liquid (Washing up liquid, only for practice never when actually building something). They use a standard rubbish bin to store the mix and as soon as they have finished they scrape the bricks and put it back in the bin and mix with a plastering paddle mixer and cover with a lid. Works every time no lumps.
Great videos rob really enjoying watching them and the little things that make a big difference . Do you do training schemes for people wanting to learn hands on so to speak ?
Yes I do, but they are not official so they are only for people I know at the moment, but next spring could see something bigger happening. thank you very much for watching
@@robsonger1 thanks for the reply, I understand levelling between the two plum points horizontally however I’ve never quite understood the diagonal check (faceplane) when the bricks have already been ranged horizontally - is this just a backup check as such ?
also I buy the heavy duty levels so I can hit it if needed. but I am trying to avoid as often as possible. 3 points of contact I practicing too. Thanks.
Hi Rob! Great videos, thank you! I am just in the middle of watching these, so I have one quick question, when you say your a couple of mil out, how high should the bricks and mortar be? Thanks
So why do we level first then gauge? Gauge means height of the brick so what is the point of leveling a brick that might be too high or too low? I was always taught gauge, level, plumb and range. Once the bricks have been laid never go back on a check, such as ranging a wall then going back to level it. Each brick has a tolerance of +/- 3mm over 1m which is same as a pound coin under your level
if you gauge the brick first, then level it up, you will very likely alter the gauge, however, if you level it first you can almost get it to the height with your eye....and its level, then check gauge and tap it down level to correct gauge. This means its much less backwards and forwards between then two.
Is there any particular reason or method why you didn't use any half bricks here ? Just wondering if its coincidence or something to it? Thanks again for the knowledge and your time .
@@robsonger1 thank you so much for responce ..I've been studying your videos multiple times... the knowledge and technique is astounding .. glad to know of ya
Really nice clean work rob. I'm an elektrician my self so not much expirince in brickwork and I'm from Yhe Netherlands (my technikal English is not so good). I'm now bilding a "shed" for fire wood I want to bild a 1 stone pilars on withs the roof is gone rest can i use the marine level to level the top brikes ? thnks for all the info I allready learned a lot, thanks again(especally went you explane in words how to bild)
Hey Rob. Thanks for all the great vids. I'm planning on building a wine cellar underground with a semicircle arch roof on top of a sleeper wall. I'm having trouble finding how much I can span with different types of construction. For example, I've found some vids where they are doing the arched roof with a single layer of bricks laid on edge, ( 4" thick roof ), and I've seen others where they are alternating direction of the bricks to tie them together in effect making an 8" thick arch. Can you point me to any guidelines about this, or do you have a feel for how big I can go on the span before I have to double up? Thanks much in advance.
this sounds complicated without dimensions its a little difficult to picture it without a sketch. Is this on a new build? the correct way to go would be to contact a structural engineer as if you are having rooms above you'd need steel and concrete over any brickwork you have. Tell me more and/or keep me updated. thank you for watching
Once again Rob a great video. Thank you for your time and effort in helping out us beginners. One question I have is would it be possible to level the first row of bricks across their width rather than trying to plumb them off of such a short side? Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Levelling the brick across its width. A good question and I know lots of tutors would teach it but....I don't do it. The reason is because not all bricks are truly square, and if you level the width of the brick you will very often sacrifice the plumb on the faceplane.
as high as you can comfortably lay, scaffold lift height so anything between 20 & 24 courses. I'll explain working on higher courses soon. if however you use a dense, engineering brick then the extra weight could begin to squeeze the lower joints out causing you lots of problems with staining, losing gauge and having bigger joints higher up to compensate, or even having to take down and rebuild. With these bricks I would go probably 12 courses, run in and move round to another elevation before retuning to it.
rob songer - Thanks Rob. Squeezing the unset mortar out was in my mind if you put too many courses on. It’s v.interesting to see precisely how corners should be approached, as a lot of other people’s bricklaying vids on UA-cam seem to be about how fast they can lay bricks to line inbetween the corners.
Nice, thanks, rob. I noticed on 2nd and subsequent layers you don’t check the horizontal bond length or vertical alignment of end bricks to lower joints. Only that the face of the bricks are vertical. Why not?, is that normal? Is it just that because you are only running in 6 layers the amount out you’d be is so small that you’d sort that out as you run in? Also is 6 the normal amount you would build up a corner in one go?
yes, on a small corner I would work as you see me here, only a lot quicker.. I am sure I mention about laying a dry half bat to give a good idea of half bond, if I don't it will be in a coming video. thank you for watching
Nothing nasty meant, but is there an "adjustable level/plumb frame" you can use for the first few courses to get the corner on plane, then just remove and work off the "pre-set"? Seems like most of the work is making sure the plumb/square/90 is correct. Thanks for the info man!~ G>
I missed this, sorry...I would use a 1:1:6 or a 1:1:4 mix, depending which type of block I'd be using. But, if you thin joint, that is by far the strongest....watch my Thin Joint playlist
Hi Rob. Me again. Another absolutely excellent video. Thank you, but maybe I missed something. Why did you only dunk the first brick? Was it only that one that looked particularly dry? Regards Mark in the UK
Hi rob i would like to ask about the correct mortar mix, I was told 4/1 for brick and maybe 6/1 for blocks, also your mortar is very pale in color, so what sand are you using, just very curious Ps ime a retired plumber, but always loved watching and laboring for the brickies,it always seemed more interesting to me .
@@robsonger1 nice videos but you don't talk a lot about sand, in your mortars video you briefly mention using a grittier sand with the hydraulic lime. I was wondering if it's sharp? Also my understanding is that Portland is measured by weight and lime by volume, which do you use in your mixes?
Hello Scott. Boat levels are only for soldiers and sometimes brick on edge, but never on raising a corner. The 600mm level you see me using is the smallest I use for this, and as an apprentice I would have been stripped and tarred for using it.... I hope you are enjoying the videos
Hi Rob. I'm hoping there's no such thing as a stupid question! I had assumed the advantage of a hollow brick is that excess mortar has somewhere to go when you tap the bricks level etc. My question therefore is why are they laid hollow side up? It strikes me at first thought that you surely end up using more mortar; filling the hollow before the next course is laid, than you would if you were to have the hollow side down, thereby giving a flat surface to trowel mortar onto? I'm sure there's a good reason! Cheers.
James Senior If you look at some of Robs back catalogue of videos you might find the ans before video 5 - but I will give a clue is an aero bar of chocolate easier to snap in half than a solid bar of Galaxy chocolate when cold.
Now I'm really intrigued! I have no idea which is easier to snap, and cannot fathom how frog up vs frog down would influence temperature, if that's what you're getting at?! I assumed having a frog was about saving weight/cost/material and reducing heat transfer cf. a solid brick. I await enlightenment.
Hello Rob, are you going make any videos on double or triple wythe walls. Does the UK build any solid masonry houses anymore or is it only veneer? Thanks
hi, we were all taught and all the bricklayers I worked with laid frog up for several reasons. It seems nowadays no one is taught like that. I will mention it in a video soon. Keep watching.
Hi John, yes there are lots on their way, just finding the best time to do them...but I promise Basic Skills Lesson 5 & 6 will be here soon.. plus another 2 dozen to follow..(at least) thanks for watching and commenting.
@@tonyflynn8077 Basically a line setup from profiles at the correct heights and you lay on bricks or blocks to it. The heights come from a datum that is leveled off from
Love the work rob. I’m a bricklayer from the USA and I show your videos at work. Love the projects, the information, and the update videos. Amazing work.
Rob, this is a great series of videos. "Level, gauge, plumb, range" has been consigned to memory and I feel empowered to tackle my home extension. I exaggerate of course, but feel ready to tackle the garden steps! Thanks for sharing.
excellent, I'm sure it will turn out good, just take your time. Remember, if it takes you 2 days, it will remain there for more years than we have left to live...so those 2 days are insignificant, enjoy doing it.
thank you for watching
Excellent videos Rob greatly appreciated
You are the BEST! I really appreciate your attention to detail and your philosophy of learning to do things the right way from the very beginning in order to develop good habits. One question: Why do you dip your bricks into water?
Brilliant videos! So much hard earned knowledge being passed on - thank you!
Rob ur the best in the world at buttering a brick! So precise!
Excellent video Rob, thanks for sharing
Another great tutorial. Nicely paced for learners. Thank you!
Very detailed. Very professional. Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience sir 👍👍👍
Great, patient and steady bricklayer.
Back in the old days when l did my apprenticeship we learned this first
I did gauged work massive inspection chambers lots of lovely bonds and technical work - working on site was like a war zone by comparison
Its a lovely craft and watching you reminds me of the neat clean college
You working for cowboy builders?
@@christophirelad9636 l left the trade years ago
But l still have my tools and a heart when I see great work
@@davidnash1220 legendddd
Best teachings on the topic. Thank you Sir Rob Songer.
I enjoyed comprehensive explanations
excellent video! you're pointers on where the place your fingers when adjusting bricks and the sequence of steps when laying bricks really helps. do you plan on doing a similar video on laying brick on the edge? i would love to see it!
Great Video series Rob, highly educational and very enjoyable, great stuff!
Jeez after 35 years as a plumber your brilliant videos have made me want to retrain as a bricky, thanks for your knowledge.
well, what can I say....brickwork is thee trade to be in...
let's save "brilliant"for doctors and such
You’re work is very clean rob from a fellow canadian brickie
Thank you for posting these videos. I was looking for advice on how to lay a brick wall to rest GFL floor joists on and found your channel. It is incredible watching you work. Like everything else years of experience make it look easy. Thank you
thank you so much, and thank you for watching
I love these teaching videos, although I'll never use the new knowledge as I'm retired. But, they're entertaining as well! ....13
I like the way Style U are using Level Gauge. Thank U excellent Job.
Thankyou for the excellent instructions.
That was a test given test given to Me when I was 20 years old, only it was a bet with Our then teacher.
The bet was who could get it correct, without using the the standard square template, gauge rod and level.
The rack back coin, as We used to call it. It was done with 5 bricks though.
I remember the pressure was on?
Needless to say, I beat Him, it was near as damnit!
Done by hand and eye!
Brings back Memories!
Bricklaying is a fine art, but does help if You have that natural eye for levels!
Excellent video! 😁
Great work Rob! 🧱
bricklayer from Belgium,different style from here but the best what i have seen from england love your work and videos amazing…
thank you very much Stany, and thank you for watching
Well done. Learned a lot.
Your getting a good response to this lesson rob . Top job .
yes, as long as its helping a few then I'm happy
Sir Robert Songer
In my humble bricky opinion a true Master Mason ye be
thank you, and you have the honour of being the first comment on this one...
If you are humbly working for free, are you then a free mason?
@@douglaschampion7057 lol
Hey Rob, great video with a lot of details that took me years to develop.
Thanks for taking the time to film this................Cheers
Great video as always. One trick I was taught - when plumbing those initial courses a thin lath is useful to support the top of the level in the form of a "prop" making a triangle with the vertical level. This helps steady the level in the vertical plane and you can then concentrate on observing the relationship of level to brick. Hope that all makes some sort of sense.
plumbing down from lines in foundations the "old" prop technique is essential. Not sure how often I've been lucky enough to be able to use pencils in foundations. I think never.
I'm intrigued as I've never heard of this. What do you prop the lath down to? The ground? And how are you attaching it to the level?
@@jfdb59 Yes - the lath, about 600mm or so, is propped to the ground and held, by hand, tight in contact with the side of your level which is plumbing the brickwork. You have thus created a triangle which, with its support, helps keeps the level plumb. Without the support the lath the level is likely to rock around more and is harder to read. Give it a try and hopefully it will all come clear. Its a useful technique in plumbing the first few courses and helps get them truly plumb. Cheers.
@@barryhumphreys1894 ahhhh I get it now. The bottom stays planted and hand pressure maintains contact at the level and allows you to slide it was necessary for fine adjustment but without unwanted movement. That makes sense and seems like an idea I will try.
@@jfdb59 You’ve got it! It especially useful when try to plumb down from string lines when setting out foundation brickwork. It helps get the first course set out in the correct position on the concrete. Give it a try - best of luck. Cheers Barry
Excellent, thanks Rob, a very informative series
thank you for watching
I wish the guys who taught me years ago showed this much patience and technique and me nick name wouldn't be smudger now. Nice clean work mate.
haha, I nearly choked on my tea reading that...
@@robsonger1 ha ha ha ha ....
Wish this too,, I wouldn't need my scaffold tube to joint up, lovely videos Rob
Yes lots of nick names 3/4 batman - saw it right in the middle of English bond on A bridge - perps running forward -messed it up - Robs fault keep seeing the mistakes now before I look at the job overall.....Learn by your mistakes but probably quicker to learn by others mistakes as well. 👍
You couldn't hold a job in the USA being that slow.
Had a bricklayer do some work for me once upon a time. I asked him what tolerances he works to and he said as long as he's in the right garden that'll do lol
😂😂That is fucking gold. I'm using that.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Love the tutorials, of course I’ve never laid a brick but want to learn and that’s why I’m here. Can someone explain what distance in the level, plumb, measure, range how far the bricks should be apart !!
I have been watching Rob for a while now, never laid a brick but I count as an armchair bricky. watch all his vids repeatedly, rob is an excellent tutor and everything you need to know is there. The beds and perps should be 10mm apart. The standard co-ordinating size for brickwork is 225 mm x 112.5 mm x 75 mm (length x depth x height). size of a brick 215 mm x 102.5 mm x 65 mm.
3/8 inch. Whatever that is in mm
10mm
What a great teacher,thank U.
thank you
amazingly simple and very well explained. Thank you.
thank you, and thanks for watching
Hi. First of all I want to say thank you very much sir for having this much patience with in and second is that I want to build a brick fence at my home in Romania and need it someone to show me how it's done well. I'm not a constructor felow but the idea of paing 8 grand just for a contractor's work,has made me look for a differrent approach. Can't thank you enaugh sir. May God bless u.
thank you, and I hope these videos help you
10 years ago I build 14met.l-1.80h wall from scrapy bricks(30%bricks was fine, rest 3/4,1/2 and even a smaler chunks), every 2.5 met wall is reanforce with concret and steel bars because I thot wall is 14 met. long and we got strong winter winds here. My brother and cousins helped me with foundation and after I finished the wall they told me:wall Will fal down with end off first winter, and now 10 years later wall still standing and with pattina look better then new, so did you finish your fence because before that wall I newer worked with bricks in my life.
Bloody hell Rob this episode must be on early release as expected lesson 4 today or tomorrow but bringing back memories of 1992 in as much as the hydrated lime mortar and the triangle build last week as it was the first thing i built at college never used a tape in them days always told to use a gauging rod,the only bad memories of them days was taking down the walls after and cleaning of the lime mortar to reuse the bricks on the next project or phase test but have to say you are a exceptional teacher and you should open up The Rob Songer Bricklaying Training Centre
sorry for the late reply! Yes, I have a training centre now, the last 2 years on Tuesday evenings
Great teaching
With the level along the centre of the bricks tapping the bricks off centre tilts them out of plum, plenty of bricklayers tap the level as they are pretty robust.
Never hit your level...and if you watch closely I explain how to counteract tipping
@@robsonger1 Sorry i don't agree, i think it's silly made up legalism. Watched plenty of bricklayers and have my c & g 's myself, worked on a few sites and have come to that conclusion, just get yourself a sturdy level, not one from a pound shop that floats in the bath.
Well Robert, I was taught by a great lecturer then I had the privilege of working alongside the best bricklayer I have ever seen...and both maintained.. "never, ever, hit your level. Its your most expensive hand tool, look after it"
And to prove that point, you can now buy levels with shock absorbing covers so you can hit it and prolong its life a little longer.
@@robsonger1 The Ox Pro Spirit Level is claiming to be the strongest in the world, i think your 'word never' needs to apply to hitting ones wife not hitting the level with say the handle of the trowel. I watched a bricklayer once sitting in my car, he layed a flat bed and just placed the bricks, looked effortless. Anyway you continue knocking the bricks off plumb and then have to adjust them, fine with me.
Ps. apart from that nice work.
Rob. Please can you do a video of how on how to stop my bricks hitching and grinning when running the line or any tips would be good ..I'm an apprentice and this would really help me out..
sorry for the late reply and I'm sure you are cured form hitching now....
@@robsonger1 yes mate all cured. 👍thanks.
I'm a tidy brickie and used most Rob's techniques for 30 years, but, I HIT MY LEVEL, just quicker. haha
haha. It's a habit I've been trying to get out of myself. But it seems I'm always in some sort of contorted awkward working position which makes it difficult to see and address individual problems. So just easier and quicker to lightly tap the level. I mean that's why we have mason's level right?
Hi Rob,
I love the content and quality of your videos & always look forward to a new one. Is it possible to buy your "twisted pier" former as one of my customer's would love a pair of twisted piers as gate posts. I'm up in Norfolk so could collect if you have a pair. Best Regards Tim
Hi Tim, unfortunately my manufacturer has the next batch ready for me but he has increased his price so that I no longer make any profit from selling them (my profit was absolute minimum)
I could send you a short video I sent to someone else explaining how to make a wooden one if you want?
@@robsonger1 Hi Rob, really sorry to hear that. I would really appreciate it if you could send instructions. If you have a PayPal account I'll gladly pay for them. Have a great evening. Tim
Hi Rob, sorry mate I forgot to leave an email address, it's TimMargereson@aol.com. please send payment details too. Best Regards Tim
Do you only need to level the brick one way? Or do you need to level it up both ways?
In response to a few questions below the normal mix used by bricklayers these days is 4 sand 1 cement but don't forget the mortar mix to make it easier to use
Just wondering , When the mortar is setting does it move the brick.!!
Nooo....
Brickwork is all about using your eyes . If it looks right , it is right . 👍
Once again very informative video from you Rob. I learn a little bit more every time. 👍🏻
I was actually watching this wondering if your were going to mention about using the level on the diagonal to check for bond and boom there is was right at the end.
Rob I’m addicted your videos I think I might need counselling. You should have a donation link on your videos there just so good. I’ll gladly donate, I’ve learnt tonnes from your videos. Even all your comments are so professional, even when someone is talking utter b@ll@cks
thank you, that really made me smile...I'm here for free.
if I can help a few people improve on their skills, if I can help a few realise this is a great trade, if some realise that this can be art, and what they build will still be here long after we are gone...so leave something that people will admire.... then I'll be happy
So you build 2 corners and run a line to build a wall? But then how do you know if it will be level? Do you need to level the first two bricks of a corner or what?Can someone help me out?
yes, that is correct. it will be explained in Lesson 5 soon...but for now, if you could watch "Victorian Weave" to give you an idea, you will see the first course set out, gauged and the level transferred to the other end.
Hi does it ever happen the corner brick is level but no plum as you get higher ..👍
It never happens...
which material use in mortar
Rob, thank you. I plan to match four existing brick pillars that hold up our 100yr old house covered front porch. We are adding to the porch to wrap around the left side of the house and need two more pillars. They will be about 8 feet tall. What is your advice on the best method for ensuring plumb? They will be square and about 30 inches wide. I will be setting a concrete footing with re-bar down below frost line (required by code here) and bring it up to level with the ground, then bricks. The concrete will extend out past the bricks two inches on all four sides (code). I am thinking I should use a vertical temporary wall that is U shaped to do three sides at a time with the wall on the outside (working from the inside), and then filling in the fourth side as I go up. I have all the tools and have building experience including a lot of concrete work, and am confident I can do a passable job. So any quick advice is appreciated. Thanks. I also plan to fill this in with concrete after it cures. I'll have some tabs on the inside so that the concrete can hold the bricks in place.
sorry I missed your comment! I hope it went well
Its great seeing whole thing. One question, do you recommend using proper mixed mortar for practice? Just thinking in terms of cleaning up and take practice pieces down, cos i will have ago in my yard.
Thanks for the effort once again
Use hydrated lime and building sand to 1:3, this just means it will be able to be taken down...you can reuse the bricks, but not the mortar as it will be lumpy...unless you you sieve it and break up the lumps.
Hi Mike, My grandsons have been practicing with three to one sand and hydrated lime with plenty of washing up liquid (Washing up liquid, only for practice never when actually building something). They use a standard rubbish bin to store the mix and as soon as they have finished they scrape the bricks and put it back in the bin and mix with a plastering paddle mixer and cover with a lid. Works every time no lumps.
Great videos rob really enjoying watching them and the little things that make a big difference .
Do you do training schemes for people wanting to learn hands on so to speak ?
Yes I do, but they are not official so they are only for people I know at the moment, but next spring could see something bigger happening.
thank you very much for watching
Can anyone tell me what the purpose of checking the range on the bricks diagonally is when the bricks have already been plumbed ?
Yes, you range between plumb points
@@robsonger1 thanks for the reply, I understand levelling between the two plum points horizontally however I’ve never quite understood the diagonal check (faceplane) when the bricks have already been ranged horizontally - is this just a backup check as such ?
@@tylerwood339 Just a double check, yes. Cant do it if the blockwork has been walled up first though.
@@luket1815 thank you for the reply 👍 why does the block work already been walled prevent the diagonal check ?
What do you make of the bricklayer 500
Very informative and technical content unlike best bricky who seems very ego driven great stuff 👍
well, the boss doesn't like the bed spread technique but it's working for me. less holes. Thanks Big Guy.
also I buy the heavy duty levels so I can hit it if needed. but I am trying to avoid as often as possible. 3 points of contact I practicing too. Thanks.
very good, thank you for watching...
Why can't you use a boat level to plumb first course?
Keep up the good work Rob - I think this is the biggest teaching workshop in the world - probably
( I know you drink ale )
haha, a Carlsberg in a beer garden on a hot summers day is still ok...but yeah, you can't beat Pride of Pendle
Hi Rob! Great videos, thank you!
I am just in the middle of watching these, so I have one quick question, when you say your a couple of mil out, how high should the bricks and mortar be? Thanks
65mm brick and 10mm bed
75mm gauge height.
225mm long with perp included, but bricks vary in size
How does cement become this colour?
it's a lime mortar
So why do we level first then gauge? Gauge means height of the brick so what is the point of leveling a brick that might be too high or too low? I was always taught gauge, level, plumb and range. Once the bricks have been laid never go back on a check, such as ranging a wall then going back to level it. Each brick has a tolerance of +/- 3mm over 1m which is same as a pound coin under your level
if you gauge the brick first, then level it up, you will very likely alter the gauge, however, if you level it first you can almost get it to the height with your eye....and its level, then check gauge and tap it down level to correct gauge. This means its much less backwards and forwards between then two.
Is there any particular reason or method why you didn't use any half bricks here ? Just wondering if its coincidence or something to it? Thanks again for the knowledge and your time .
its just raising a small corner. Half bats would be used if it was a stop end, such as a beside a window or door
@@robsonger1 thank you so much for responce ..I've been studying your videos multiple times... the knowledge and technique is astounding .. glad to know of ya
Thank you Donny, there's lots more to come
A very helpful video ever! May God bless you. Btw, what's your ration of mixing cement and sand?
Hello, please watch my video 'Mortar'
Really nice clean work rob. I'm an elektrician my self so not much expirince in brickwork and I'm from Yhe Netherlands (my technikal English is not so good). I'm now bilding a "shed" for fire wood I want to bild a 1 stone pilars on withs the roof is gone rest can i use the marine level to level the top brikes ? thnks for all the info I allready learned a lot, thanks again(especally went you explane in words how to bild)
thank you for watching and I'm glad the videos are helping, but I'm sorry not sure what you mean by 'marine
level'
@@robsonger1 Thnks for reacting so soon. sorry boot level my mistake
Hey Rob. Thanks for all the great vids. I'm planning on building a wine cellar underground with a semicircle arch roof on top of a sleeper wall. I'm having trouble finding how much I can span with different types of construction. For example, I've found some vids where they are doing the arched roof with a single layer of bricks laid on edge, ( 4" thick roof ), and I've seen others where they are alternating direction of the bricks to tie them together in effect making an 8" thick arch. Can you point me to any guidelines about this, or do you have a feel for how big I can go on the span before I have to double up? Thanks much in advance.
this sounds complicated without dimensions its a little difficult to picture it without a sketch.
Is this on a new build?
the correct way to go would be to contact a structural engineer as if you are having rooms above you'd need steel and concrete over any brickwork you have.
Tell me more and/or keep me updated.
thank you for watching
OK, thanks for answering. Enjoy your day.
Joe Primal these guys do wonderful arch / dome work ua-cam.com/video/3ixUPvvIK0w/v-deo.html
I'm no expert but isn't a long level more accurate than a short level - nothing to do with the accuracy of the particular level?
Excellent step by step video
thank you for watching
Plumb and gauge is what I'm focusing on at the moment
Once again Rob a great video. Thank you for your time and effort in helping out us beginners. One question I have is would it be possible to level the first row of bricks across their width rather than trying to plumb them off of such a short side? Thanks again and keep up the great work.
Bricks are not generally very square so if you level across the top you’ll probably find the face is not vertical.
Levelling the brick across its width. A good question and I know lots of tutors would teach it but....I don't do it. The reason is because not all bricks are truly square, and if you level the width of the brick you will very often sacrifice the plumb on the faceplane.
Thank you for all the replies. Hadn't thought about the squareness of the top of the brick to the face. This is why I am a carpenter.
my boy is a carpenter....watch out for his facebook page coming soon
What’s the max number of courses you’d raise a corner in one go?
as high as you can comfortably lay, scaffold lift height so anything between 20 & 24 courses. I'll explain working on higher courses soon.
if however you use a dense, engineering brick then the extra weight could begin to squeeze the lower joints out causing you lots of problems with staining, losing gauge and having bigger joints higher up to compensate, or even having to take down and rebuild. With these bricks I would go probably 12 courses, run in and move round to another elevation before retuning to it.
rob songer - Thanks Rob. Squeezing the unset mortar out was in my mind if you put too many courses on. It’s v.interesting to see precisely how corners should be approached, as a lot of other people’s bricklaying vids on UA-cam seem to be about how fast they can lay bricks to line inbetween the corners.
Nice, thanks, rob. I noticed on 2nd and subsequent layers you don’t check the horizontal bond length or vertical alignment of end bricks to lower joints. Only that the face of the bricks are vertical. Why not?, is that normal? Is it just that because you are only running in 6 layers the amount out you’d be is so small that you’d sort that out as you run in?
Also is 6 the normal amount you would build up a corner in one go?
yes, on a small corner I would work as you see me here, only a lot quicker..
I am sure I mention about laying a dry half bat to give a good idea of half bond, if I don't it will be in a coming video.
thank you for watching
Yes Rob, you mentioned the dry half bat in this series.
Russell Scott jnn
Ah yes, dry half bat, forgot that bit. Thanks.
Hi Rob on walls do u guage at both end of wall
And do u use a straight edge on every coarse and transfer the level on every coarse
Reminds me of college at Colchester institute back in 1988 your a suffolk lad Ipswich?
I'm just outside lowestoft
@@robsonger1 good one I’m near Sudbury
@@mrc5653 if you watch my video Datum Levels, that was taken at Liston, Long Melford
@@robsonger1 I’ll have a look cheers rob 👍
Nothing nasty meant, but is there an "adjustable level/plumb frame" you can use for the first few courses to get the corner on plane, then just remove and work off the "pre-set"? Seems like most of the work is making sure the plumb/square/90 is correct.
Thanks for the info man!~ G>
How many miles must be between corses? Thank you
Sorry, I'm not sure what you mean...
@@robsonger1 hi sir, I mean thickness of cement, thank you
Ah, 10mm joints with these metric bricks.
We use imperial as well and they are slightly bigger with bigger gauge and tighter joints.
What if you can't get an outside gauge on bricks?
In what situation might that be a thing?
Rob I have a question .For block work what ratio is good if I want to use lime . I need a strong mix . thanks mate
4 sand 3 cement and 2 lime
I missed this, sorry...I would use a 1:1:6 or a 1:1:4 mix, depending which type of block I'd be using. But, if you thin joint, that is by far the strongest....watch my Thin Joint playlist
Hi Rob. Me again. Another absolutely excellent video. Thank you, but maybe I missed something. Why did you only dunk the first brick? Was it only that one that looked particularly dry?
Regards Mark in the UK
yes, it was dry...the others had been wetted before but even those were drying out a little too quick.
Hi rob i would like to ask about the correct mortar mix, I was told 4/1 for brick and maybe 6/1 for blocks, also your mortar is very pale in color, so what sand are you using, just very curious
Ps ime a retired plumber, but always loved watching and laboring for the brickies,it always seemed more interesting to me .
Thanks very much cheers always glad to get some good advice.
Please watch my video 'Mortar' and please come back to me if you need to know anymore
Normally 4/1 bellow splash course
Shinobi this could be hydroloc lime couldn’t it ?
@@robsonger1 nice videos but you don't talk a lot about sand, in your mortars video you briefly mention using a grittier sand with the hydraulic lime. I was wondering if it's sharp? Also my understanding is that Portland is measured by weight and lime by volume, which do you use in your mixes?
How do I get lesson
Another informative video, I thought a boat level would be easier to use on the first course. Thanks
Hello Scott. Boat levels are only for soldiers and sometimes brick on edge, but never on raising a corner.
The 600mm level you see me using is the smallest I use for this, and as an apprentice I would have been stripped and tarred for using it....
I hope you are enjoying the videos
Hi Rob. I'm hoping there's no such thing as a stupid question! I had assumed the advantage of a hollow brick is that excess mortar has somewhere to go when you tap the bricks level etc. My question therefore is why are they laid hollow side up? It strikes me at first thought that you surely end up using more mortar; filling the hollow before the next course is laid, than you would if you were to have the hollow side down, thereby giving a flat surface to trowel mortar onto? I'm sure there's a good reason! Cheers.
there is a very good reason why bricks should be laid frog up..
I will explain it in the next lesson in this series (Lesson 5)
I knew there would be! Look forward to the video! Thanks for the uploads Rob, they're brilliant.
James Senior If you look at some of Robs back catalogue of videos you might find the ans before video 5 - but I will give a clue is an aero bar of chocolate easier to snap in half than a solid bar of Galaxy chocolate when cold.
Now I'm really intrigued! I have no idea which is easier to snap, and cannot fathom how frog up vs frog down would influence temperature, if that's what you're getting at?! I assumed having a frog was about saving weight/cost/material and reducing heat transfer cf. a solid brick. I await enlightenment.
Hello Rob, are you going make any videos on double or triple wythe walls. Does the UK build any solid masonry houses anymore or is it only veneer? Thanks
I'd say that 90% is cavity wall, there are a few with a new solid system and a growing eco way.
@@robsonger1 any more info on the new solid systems if you don't mind? Can't find it on Google. Thanks again
try,
Google
Celcon
Solid Wall Construction
I think you'll get info and a video..
If you you haven’t got a square the 3,4,5 the corner 👍👍
ارجو ترجمة الدروس إلى اللغة العربية لتحقيق كامل الفائدة مع التقدير والاحترام
Hey rob i dont know how to read bubble for when plumbing my bricks. Maybe u show in quick video. As always good video learnin heaps
UA-cam IS RACIST
When the bubble is centre of the vial, it’s plumb.
why frog up....???
hi, we were all taught and all the bricklayers I worked with laid frog up for several reasons. It seems nowadays no one is taught like that.
I will mention it in a video soon.
Keep watching.
the master
never lay brick on your knees
no new videos up
Hi John, yes there are lots on their way, just finding the best time to do them...but I promise Basic Skills Lesson 5 & 6 will be here soon.. plus another 2 dozen to follow..(at least)
thanks for watching and commenting.
Real life 1st coarse gets layed to a range line
What is a range line?
@@tonyflynn8077 Basically a line setup from profiles at the correct heights and you lay on bricks or blocks to it. The heights come from a datum that is leveled off from
using them in your video then
Why the hello are u spinning the brick upside down to joint the rear end dear God u be there all day to make any money
I'm doing very ok thank you, and I'm sure it's explained in the video.
they would have been just giving u a hard time mate. apperntices get ribbed out for anything and everything
Ur supposed to use the tip of the troul to make the bed suck the brick tighter to the mortar
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