S25 Desktop Filament Extruder - A Year Later
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- We tested this generic S25 single screw desktop extruder to see how viable it is for a large-scale 3d printer farm. Here's our thoughts..
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With a title like "A Year Later" I expected your experience from using it for a year, but you just said it doesn't work. So, I assume you tried it and it sucked and it's sat there for a year? What's the year got to do with it?
I think they didn't want to review it as the machine clearly looks unused, I have a machine line of sj25 and it works perfectly in every way. Haven't had a single issue with heating
@@siddharthjain3312 Do you have the similar winding machines? Up for making a video of your lines and process?
@@skaltura yes i do have couple of units running and they work perfect. I just think these guys didn't get their money from manufacturer that's why they are saying these things about the product. Or else they don't have a clue what they are talking about.
it just feels like the competition is conducting a review on a product hahahaha
I've bought four extruders from this company. The one step larger ones (SJ-35) and they work great!
does it work with PET ?
We use ours for DuPont Nylon..(pa6 gf)..
Sounds like they didn’t set the power supply correctly..(110 volt).
How many kg per hour can realy do SJ 35 with PET G Filament 1.75
Low heating speed makes me think that maybe it is designed for 220V, and if it is connected to 110V, it would get 1/3 of power. May be worth investigating if you have 220V aviable
1/4 *
I have the whole extrusion line and it works even with materials like PEEK . It depends on the user and their knowledge of how to run the machine. I have produced over 500 kgs of filament and the screw is still good for almost double that.
so you have the 500C version? how many screw RPM can you get and is this the 13:1 LD version? you run PEEK at what temp on this line?
@@rexxx927 I have 14:1 LD 25mm dia, 38CrMoAIA barrel and screw rpm about 25 but with PEEK it reduces upto 16. The heating zone is 375-385-390. Works perfect if set right.
@@siddharthjain3312 Excellent! the last guy told me he run Peek at 325 lol where are you located and have you done and GF or CF PEI or other HT resins?
@@rexxx927 I am located in Canada as well as India and we have not tried gf materials in filament extrusion, our India branch manufacturers compounded granules for engineering plastics including pa-6/66 GF+FR/PBT/POM/ABS/PEEK/PC and PLA for moulding/extrusion purposes.
@@siddharthjain3312 nice! do you have discord? i would like to learn more about it
Next, you should try and see if you can get your hands one of their newer twin-screw extruders, see if you can turn home-made PLA fibre into PLA into PLA of your specific desired color and poperties by using it to mix the fibre with pigments, such as maybe mica powder, and desiccants and fillers to produce PLA of your specific desire :)
One issue I had with an SJ 35 is the gap between the barrel and the cowling. When the fan came on it blew cold air down one side of the barrel cooling it and it was impossible to get consistent filament diameter. Once the gap was covered the temperature and filament diameter was perfect. I find them to be very well made and strong machines. Biggest issue would be trying to extrude when not enough temperature. It will ruin the gearbox quickly
Just FYI - the temp controllers are PID controllers, not PLC (Programmable logic controllers). Have you tried adjusting the setitngs? PID stands for Proportional, Integral, Derivitive. P inputs a large correction for a large difference. I reduces the input based on corrections made in the past, and D is trying to predict future variances. They can be tuned and it makes a significant difference on how quickly the temp will get to set point, and how long it takes to stabilize. If it's not heating enough, the elements could be undersized, or the settings could be way off.
Thank you for letting us all know!
Extremely interesting! I know that there are double screw version of this machine, as well as a version with a bigger motor. Also, could this be the 220V version which they simply wired as a 110V? What if you try to properly (wiring modifications) use it on 220~240V?
We did give that a shot.
Twin screw machine are for compounding usually if you run one base resin at a time you only need a single screw extruder as for your amps go by the wattage to get the current draw it should have V x A = W you should see then if its 110 or 220V
ex. ,110v x 3 amps is 330 w, 220v x 3 amps is 660 w If your machine wattage is rated @ 330-350w its a 110volt machine and so on cheers
what V it runs at should not matter at all for performance. If the corresponding amps are correct for the power of the engine.
@@Toffypops It could make a big difference on the heating elements. Half the voltage basically means only 1/4 the heating power from a resistive heating element. Its not as big of a difference on PTC heaters, but i don't think one would want to use them on machines with a need for fine temperature control.
I know y'all don't have the time but I would a series of yall "diddling around" with this and the filabot to get them working again and then making them work better for small production ;p
It could just be a marketing tactic to defame machines that work well, I have a SJ 25 and I haven't had any issues in long term producing filaments even at high temps @380°C
The difference between people with a engineering problem solving mind and basic end users. Just convert it to 220 or make sure they didn’t leave it set up for 220 behind the power panel. They probably just threw a 110 plug on it and left it wired for 220 so it’s operating at half power. You’re welcome! :)
Imagine thinking this guy doesn't have an engineering mindset 😂
@@anthonyskrzypczak9437 Considering... a lot of people DO use these machines and they DO work, and he just wrote it off yeah... if people can't be bothered to understand the machines they run, well guess what they cant run the machines.
About experimenting: What throughput and ROI could you achieve by using the VzBot 3d printer and/or the Pantheon Design HS3 3d printer? Also, fully enclosed and fast 3d printers can save 80% on electricity consumption!
We only work with our own machine designs. There is nothing off the shelf that has been designed for high throughput. So we made them
Dude I legit had this in my shopping cart lol. Dodged a bullet! Thanks mate
Except they dont' know what they are talking about most likely its a 220V machine and if you ran it on 220V in the US it would work fine. Guy has a machine for a year and hasn't bothered to do basic troubleshooting and you trust him?
I would like better specifics. It was said thay it took for ever to heat up but compared to what. Our industrial extruders from cold can take upwards of 4+ hours before we can push poly at 350 degrees. Then once we get the poly moving slowly shear heat takes over. The heater bands are primarly only for heat up and for maintaining exteranl barrel temps so that the flow on the walls will be more consistent with the middle.
Im not a plastics engineer but to extruder pla based on printer operation i would think barral temps need to reach 400+°f and hotter for faster extrusion.
It would be nice to here a technical feedback on the machine, what was tried and what was the setup and after what trouble shooting steps were the issues.
Thank you for the heads up. I'm sorry that it didn't work for you, but I'm glad that you made the video to tell us.
Try to plug it to 208 V or 575 V ? 😂
I find it extremely unlikely that it doesn't actually work.
I suspect yours has something wrong with it.
And it's probably the incorrect resistance on the heaters. I would be it has a mix of 240 and 120 volt parts.
I am quite certain I could make it work with just some troubleshooting.
ALso, wrap the barrel in mineral insulation to stabilize the heat zone.
Thank you ❤️
You’re welcome 😊
Sounds EXACTLY like what happens when you don’t set the voltage correctly… The Sign shop’s did the same, then I read the “Manual”.😂.. Manual?..Nothing was in English😉, I just figured this due to past experiences, Opened it up, set the power supply to U.S. and then Wham.. The Heaters heated up correctly, the motor ran smoothly and etc.. (still a Pain, but it works).
It could be something Different (Blown Cap, Etc).. This is just My Experience with A similar, almost exact same contraption.🤙🏻
What extruder, hot end, and nozzle do you find to be most dependable? Which have you chosen to use on your machines?
We developed all of our hardware internally. Nearly nothing is off the shelf.
@@slant3d that a great way to avoid many of the shipping and resourcing challenges from overseas suppliers.
I need a best filament extruder ! Where can I get it ? I was going to buy this one but changed my mind after watching this video!😅
Thanks!
What would you recommend as an alternative?
It works perfectly, I have the whole setup and I don't have any heating issues at all. I wasn't able to find any alternative with that much accuracy for that price.
It would be helpful to know the brand and model and price paidnsonwe can avoid it and then which one works better andnhow much is that?
You may try mounting it at an angle 45-60degree and run the extruded filament through a tension-er of some sort like I have seen done with other extruders. Don't mean to be rude but it seems you gave up on this machine a little too soon. Thought you had used it for a year (like the title reads) but I guess not.
i saw a video bfore of some diy a coned sqruw whit a hand drillmoter on it just monied on chck a hopper where he put old prings and it come out on a nostrol as a filiment.
:O Filastruder can make filament. How the heck this can't make filament?
What are those inflated poly tubes to the side of where you are standing. They look like they are moving air?
Opposite. They are containing air.
@@slant3d what is the purpose of them containing air?
Did you use the roller/water bath with it?
I actually use one to make millions developing thermochromic and photochromic pigments.
Millions as in money?
EXCUSE ME. COULD YOU TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF TEMPERATURE SENSOR DO YOU USE IN THIS PROJECT
0:47, if it was used, I will eat it.👎👎👎👎👎👎
Errr at this point is there any of these machines produce filament without breaking in a few months ... Dont reveal the name now if you have more duds to go through to help with your cost recovery.
There is a bit of a scale requirement to have a machine work reliably.
What about insulating the nozzle ?
Already Tried
Well thats disappointing. I was looking to get this instead of a new filabot. Is there anything you've had luck with?
It works , I have the whole setup and I have produced over 500 rolls on it. It's a reliable machine and I haven't had any issues with extruding even peek at 380°C
This would never work for 1.75mm filament anyway.
Desktop extruders can work reasonbly well for testing of 1.75. It depends on the machine
It works fine, OPs machine probably has the transformer isn't wired for 120v (the perils of ordering from china) but... you could probably run it just fine on 220v.
Imagine running a 240v machine on 110v and blaming the machine
why do you permanently sound like you have a cold
just sell it to me bro
American not liking Chinese stuff... what a cliche haha
Unfortunate.
statements without proof
That's because it's a poorly modified injection moulding machine haha That isn't designed for extruding filament at all
Extruding a very basic process. The design is fine at a high level. But the details didn't go right.
@@slant3d Thanks for the view its not a great unit maybe but an extruder extruding like a hot glue gun is a very basic process yes but with a screw "Real Extruder" there is many things like LD ratios your backpressure the screw to barrel tolerances the style of screw the metering zone the feed zone and not to mention heating zones and cooling zones even pressure transducers melt temp readings are used to get an proper extrusions and extruders can make 1500-10000 psi (even pellet size)to make the flow for that material correct then you have screen packs with different meshes and usually the trust bearings are cooled with water to keep the line and hopper at bay and not to mention the compression factor these all need to be right to "Basically Extrude properly" i have run 200HP to 5 hp extruders 35mm-4.5" OD screws with productions from 5-800lbs/hr co-ex multilayer lines as well should you be interested in a hand producing production hit me back,
@@rexxx927 lots of people run this same machine, and it runs well... the key difference is input voltage, most likely he has a 220V machine and using it on 110V in the US.... hard to explain the severe power loss in such a simple machine otherwise.
@@Wingnut353 the machine heating and motor power are some yes but the screw compression and barrel to screw tolerance are made like a glue gun no back pressures are really realized like a REAL extruder which can make 5000-10000 psi this thing wont make 100 psi in back pressure thus why it doesn't even have a BP gauge or MT gauge lol and can run on 120 VAC its really more of an auger then an extruder! if your into ABS PLA and even ASA ya you can make filament with it but your tolerances will not be consistent as the line cannot keep the pressures and the correct flow and if you turn the heats down to help consistency then you have polymerisation issues and others not to mention mixing additives will not mix correctly or consistently at 3 lbs/hr and 100psi back pressure lol you do realize the LD on this thing is like 12:1 right? its a glue gun nothing more!
without realizing BP's appropriately you will induce burnt polys and carbon contaminations along with gauge profile errors that can only be masked but i will agree some resins will work on this but very very limited from throughput to QC and some resins like low LD and compressions but require a range of BP still to do it correctly! cheers!
I have access to a recycling facility and they have given me some space to experiment with PLA (for now). I can use their machines for grinding the material into pellets but I need to put together a proof of concept for an extruder without spending 10K on a serious machine. Obviously these Chinese models are shit but is there anything mid market value or is there a market for used professional machines? This might not work, but I won't know until I try. Any advice would be appreciated.