Workholding 101 for CNC Routers - Carbide Office Hours #9
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- Опубліковано 14 тра 2020
- Hey folks, we've got a pre-recorded format this week since I don't trust the wifi in my garage. I'll be going over some of the most common options out there for securing your workpieces on a CNC router. If you have any other favorite methods, drop them in the comments! We'll also be answering any questions in the live chat!
Some of the workholding options shown that we sell:
Gator Tooth Clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Tiger Claw Clamps: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Corner Square: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Threaded Inserts: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Low Profile Vise: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Machinable Fixturing Wax: shop.carbide3d.com/collection...
Parametric clamp holder: cutrocket.com/p/5dd85ce53581a/
Corner Square Pockets (Fusion 360): cutrocket.com/p/5ebdb68587c0d/ - Наука та технологія
I love the idea about slightly counter boring the exact shape for the metal angle, which assures that it is perfectly aligned with the machine's X and Y axis'.
A valuable video for me. I've had been stumped on work holding. This helps me a lot and verifies some of my issues that match others.
I have a Nomad and only do small light weight stuff, like plywood and plastics. I found that double sided tape strong enough to stop movement was a pain to remove from the cut project. The solution was to cover the back of it with masking tape and then apply the double sided tape. Works really well and I don't have to spend an hour trying to remove adhesive.
I like your idea. DS tape is so messy to remove from workpiece. This is better than CA glue
Great stuff!! I carve historic buildings into 4 foot wide oak stair treads. My machine bed is only half that so i made a sled larger than my stair tread. I fasten the work to the sled with screws from the bottom of the sled into the rear of the piece. Those holes are conveniently hidden when it's done. Then I spaced holes on both sides of the jig lengthwise at 16". I tiled my toolpaths and when one section is done, I lift it up and move it over to the next hole set. There are always 4 steel tooling pins locating the work and I just bolt it down around the edges and we are off to the races. The tooling holes are standalones in between the holes that my spoilboard already had. I can remove that thing and not use it for months. I can put it right back where it was and step it through the machine and you can't tell where it stopped and where it started.
Milling is easy, the workholding is the hard part ;-).
I use a lot of knife clamps that i screw directly into the waste board. I angle them against the wood en screw them down. The sharp edge digs into the wood and grips really well. Good for very low profile workholding and still being able to machine the top.
I have been using small scrap wood 2"x1"x6" taped down on the bottom sides. The sign board that I carve, is the same size each time. I only remove the wood on the right side to remove the sign or place a new board inside. Checking each time that the wooden sides wont move. So far its worked for me. Hi from NJ.
Lots of great hints, Thank you
Cool low profile vice, going to borrow that idea. Love that screw set, will be making one of those screw holders.
I do not have a channel to let people know, but with CA glue do not buy the expensive stuff they sell, simple alcohol will activate the CA glue works great,Tired of people taking advantage of other people, we should share and work together, thank you you’re very good on your channel
You can also 3d print holding pieces/fixtures BTW we do it all the time. :)
thanks for the video, do you happen to have links for the composite nails or screws ?
I have an aluminium bed of 20mm thick aluminium tooling plate tapped with threaded holes 50mm apart. I used a thread cutter to thread 300+ holes using cnc.
I use old laminate floor boards as waste boards when I need to work on a piece of board and using aluminium finger clamps with one threaded hole for a screw as stand off on the opposide side to the work piece. a slot was machined. works well for me. I also have a 125mm machine vice for smaller pieces (aluminium or wood) for easy swapping of stock.
I like your angle corner, I might do something similar, and add a jaw clamp end to it. I'd worry that the stock may be pulled out of it with aggressive machining though.
What doublesided tape do you use and how do you compensate for the squishy ness
I recently bought an old 4 ft x 8 ft CNC. I upgraded the controller to use an ESS. The table is just a big sheet of MDF right now. What strategy would you employ to get consistent we're folding for wood sheet parts?
For the wobble, could you shim one corner of the material, and then use the CNC to actually flatten the face, flip it, and then adhere that to the CNC wasteboard?
I mostly mill pcbs for fun. Believe it or not, binder clips are enough.
What's a knife clamp? Got a link?
What about Polymorph? Would that work? Certainly good for sealing on a vac bed...
Instead of wax, neat idea.
That 3M tape is the best! I tried some stuff from China but it was pure junk. Should have known better ... 😎
After placing the stock on the waste board, Chuck Norris just tells the stock not to move and it won't.
i cringe at those metal clamps as a person that has run through multiple plastic clamps hitting metal would destroy my bits
You mentioned removing carpet take and other double sided adhesives. I like to use my BuildTak Spatula for this. (www.buildtak.com/product/buildtak-spatula/) I am using the older version. But The new extended version would be ideal and plan to get one. It works very well at getting enough leverage to remove parts that stick a little to well. But Honestly I prefer something that sticks well rather than not at all and enters Low Earth Orbit.
Love the I’m lazy
You sound like nycnc (Saunders)
"A CNC" is not a thing, CNC is a method of machine control.
Tooooo long....
Only if you know all these tips.