Making a simple blacksmith rivet header / heading tool
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
- This is the type of heading tool I use to make rivets for my tongs. I prefer flat headed rivets. A variation of this tool can be made and used as a traditional square nail header. Check out my website at: www.gstongs.com
Thanks. Glen.
Very nice work, thanks for sharing.
Jk & Jean-Philippe: Thanks for your kind words - I appreciate it. Glen.
Glen,
I love the crisp twists & sharp look of everything you make, you have really raised the bar as far as You tube videos go - keep up the good work
Dave, I'm very glad you enjoy my videos. Hopefully I can improve my filming technique, something I'm always thinking of doing but seemingly making little progress on. Thanks for watching. Glen
Hi Glen is that rod about a 5/16 for the rivet ?
Honestly I had no idea what you were making, then at the end I was like "Really! All that to do that!?" Haha but still very nice work, I want to start experimenting with a forge.
Nice job. May I ask what is the purpose of the gap made in the end of the handles with the rod?
Ed Long Good question. That's just for hanging the tool up on a nail or something similar. Rather than drill a hole, I use a small rod to fuller each side of the inside of the handle in the manner you see to create a hole. Thanks. Glen.
Excellent idea. Thank you
I did not want this video to be over.. Beautiful craftsmanship!
+Behlul Qutbi Thanks so much for your kind words - really appreciate it. I will try to make future videos as interesting as possible. Glen.
Wow, I'm always impressed by your sharp moves, clean working space, and the perfectly shaped tools you produce. It's a real pleasure to watch you. Thanks for sharing your skills.
I remember this video the first time around, I had no idea I had been watching your stuff for 8 years
thanks for sharing
That good job, friend
Congratulations, greetings of Colomba
Looks fun to make stuff. Maybe some day I will blacksmith as a hobby.
I find myself now at 55 totally and utterly into nothing but metal work! i want to learn blacksmithing,panel work,and body repairs on vehicles, i am probably to old to get a job doing it,but am fascinate by it all the same.
Subbed your channel too.
+Tom Keir Maybe you've found your true passion / calling. There are so many aspects to metal working and to break it down further, blacksmithing alone encompasses many different disciplines or areas of speciality. Focus on what you like and you can't go wrong. And as far as a job in metal crafts, if you want it, in one way or another it will come. Thanks for subscribing. Glen
Glen GS Tongs Thank you for the reply Glen.
Was lost at beginning of the video, but wow, great craftsmanship, and awesome tool. Thanks for the quality video...
This is a excellent idea. I will be making one tomorrow to add to my tools. I use rivets all the time and am sick of buying them overseas. I might make a dome counter striker as well, as I prefer that shape head. Thanks for the inspiration.
Oh, this is an oldie. I am going to make some rivets today so I thought I would look and see what you use. Nice, simple to use and make. Thank You for sharing you knowledge, techniques and shills.
older video but I have a few questions. what kind of steel did you use for the rivets themselves? I assume the handles for the rivit header are just mild steel? lastly what is the square block made from? also mild steel? thanks for sharing the video
I use mild steel for my rivets and also handles for tools like this. I would prefer medium carbon for the rivet header itself as the higher strength will help the hole to distort less over time, but I think the one I made here is mild steel. Thanks for watching. Glen
That's an interesting anvil. Did you make it?
I designed this anvil (and two other styles) and had them made here in Taiwan. I was having a hard time finding an anvil here that suited my work style. I'm very pleased with all of them. Thanks for watching. Glen
Ha fucking Ha!!!! I'm needing a more efficient way to make the 10 gauge brass and copper wire i got into rivets. I've done my best with clamps and a tack hammer. I can make this ezy pzy. What i need is also a concave rounded tap to finish the other side of the rivet. I like using the wire on scabbards better than nails or screws
Glen GS Tongs - What steel did you use for the main block? Good video. Cheers for sharing.
+Andy Mckenzie I believe I used mild carbon steel for this rivet header. Medium carbon steel, just left normalized, would be preferable as it would likely hold up to use better. Sorry for the super late reply. Glen
+Glen GS Tongs thanks bud.
where did you get that anvil. i love it
+Toe ofawesome Sorry for the late reply. My anvils are my own design. I wanted something that would suit the way I work. I found a places that could surface grind a block of steel, machine it to my specs, and heat treat the entire anvil. Been very pleased. Thanks for watching. Glen
Can't I buy yours works in Thailand🙂
Great work with an amazing finish
Did u coat it by using wax ? or what ?
***** I finished this piece by simply wiring brushing when at a cherry red color, continuously brushing for a minute or so, until it cools enough so that no additional scale will form, let it cool in the air to where it is hot but I can touch it then spray with WD-40 and wipe down. Thanks. Glen.
Beautiful work. No unnecessary talk, just craftmanship. Great. Love it.
+Lamialle Gerald Thanks for your kind comments. Anyone who knows me knows how hard it is for me to keep quiet... Glen
+Glen GS Tongs :) I just wanted to tell you how I miles your video. It's very clean work, and fun to watch. There is so many blacksmiths talking instead of showing... I like your style and look forward for other videos. Keep up the good work.
Great job! Very creative solution to making rivets! I have to agree with the comment below concerning your anvil. Could you elaborate on it a bit? Like size, weight, and type of steel? What do you use to replace the function of an anvil horn?
The anvil in this video is about 88 pounds and made from 4145 steel, properly heat treated. If you look at newer videos of mine, you'll see a smaller, approximately 65 pound, similar looking anvil - I now use the two side by side. The smaller one has a heavy radius on the right side which can act as somewhat of a horn for certain operations. I can also use an anvil bick - a hardy tool that is shaped like a small anvil horn. However, I do have a traditional horned anvil that I still use from time to time. Check out my website and anvil page for more specs on the smaller anvil. Thanks for watching and for your kind words. Glen
This is such an awesome tool, design, Glen! I made a more traditional rivet header, but, it is a pain to use, in my opinion, because of the initial step required, of upsetting the stock...as I use a lot of smaller stock, and forge a lot with 1/4" rivets, I want a way of efficiently forging a bunch of rivet blanks, in advance...I will be forging a couple of your style, soon, in different lengths, to accommodate the different projects I do, from tong making to decorative pieces...
Ed, I'm glad my style of a simple rivet header may be useful for you. Let me know how they turn out. I appreciate your support of my channel. Thanks. Glen
Subscribed. Well done, looking forward for more.
+blast I appreciate you taking the time watch and subscribe. I am planning more hot forging videos - the less talking, more hammering type. Just been so busy with various things. In the meantime, I have a couple of explanatory videos I will post soon. Thanks. Glen
That is pretty slick!
What size is the starting block of steel that you use Glen?
+muchadesign That block is 30mm or about 1&3/16" - the size that I want my rivets shanks to be. At the end of the video you can see another, smaller rivet header I made from a 1" square block. Thanks. Glen.
Great Job. I loved it !!!
What was it you sprayed in the hole before heading the rivet?
RocketCityGardener WD-40. I find it helps some to reduce friction and free the rivet a bit easier. Traditionally, blacksmiths used a little coal dust for somewhat similar operations, like punching holes. Anyway, the WD-40 doesn't interfere with the spacing inside the hole and works for me. By the way, don't use too much or it will flare up rather than just create a vapor. Thanks. Glen.
+Glen GS Tongs Alternatively, you can quench the rivet while still inside the tool to contract the the steel for easy removal.
+New Things Very good point. I am currently making a nail header (and video) and quenching, at least the bottom end, makes removal much easier. Thanks for commenting. Glen
Beautiful and effective design on the handle. Very nice.
Thanks James. I use that sort of a twist a lot for handled tools. Take care. Glen
Nice video Glen. If you don't mind, what is the dimension of the Header Block. The Drill bits used, and the diameter of the round stock that you used for the handle. I have your site Book Marked and will be purchasing the set of 4 punches from you soon.
Terry, Glad you enjoyed this video. The block is 1&1/4" square, about 3 inches long. The drill I used is 8mm - same for both holes as this is the size of my handle stock and the size I use to make tong rivets. It's a simple tool but the key is drifting the top side of the hole just slightly with a tapered tool (punch) so that rivets will expel easily. Also, I find cooling the bottom end of each rivet for a second or two before inserting into this tool really helps - prevent them from upsetting in the bottom of the hole which would make them stick. Thanks for watching and for checking out my website. I recently changed my website (made this new site) but haven't had time yet to add pics and descriptions as I would like. Let me know if you have any questions, etc. Glen
Thanks for the quick reply Glen. I have been interested in Black Smithing for some time and have been collecting a few antiques here and there. I am going to look at an old Canadian Forge Table, attached Blower and leg vise for $425 Canadian. They might budge a bit, but still considering the asking price of Leg Vises in some areas, figure it is a decent deal. A few Anvils available also. I will likely make a Rail Road Track Anvil and a propane Tank Forge at some point also, but have to take baby steps. First things first. I will be in contact after I purchase the table and other items. I know that one should purchase one set of tongs and use those to make the rest of your tools, but, considering the quality and reasonable prices on your tools, it is rather a No Brainer in that respect. In the Olde Days, before money, we had a Barter System, if 2 people had something that the other wanted, they traded. So, I will trade some of my money, for some of your tools. Fair Dinkum, right. I have always liked the idea of using round stock and twisting the handles on certain tools. Thanks for the help on this one.
u just got a subscriber
very nice
why done your hammers have peins?
It's just my personal preference. I rarely, if ever, use a peen (ball or cross). I prefer my single face, Japanese style hammers or my double face, engineer style hammer. Thanks for watching. Glen
lol
super, i like it.very impressive.
Thanks. It's simple but effective. The key is to taper the top end a little, so the rivets can expel easily. Thanks again for watching. Glen
👍👍👍😙
very nice video
+crappiejosh I appreciate you watching and commenting. I am planning to upload a somewhat similar video of a nail header... Glen
no ale naco to je. alebo co to je?????
It's a simple tool used for making rivets; to form the heads of rivets... Thanks for watching.
nice!
Thanks for watching. Glen
what type of anvil is that
Don, That anvil is my own design which I had made here in Taiwan. I was having a tough time finding a suitable anvil and made use of the resources available here to get what I wanted made. I had three different designs made, one bigger than this, one smaller. I'm very pleased with all. Thanks for watching. Glen
Very nice! Do you ever miss having a horn or have you managed to work around this?
Don, I rarely use a horn and so that's what made me think about these block styles. Trying to add a horn would have really complicated making these machined anvils... On one of my block anvils, I put a very heavy radius on one side and that helps to take the place of a horn in some instances. Otherwise, I have a small, horned anvil (Peddinghaus) that I eventually found. But the block style anvils are my main anvils... Thanks. Glen
can i ask what material this anvil was made from?
Paul, I had this (and two other styles anvils) made from 4145. These anvils are completely heat treated. I've been very pleased with them. Thanks for watching. Glen