Great video my friend, only thing I would add is when you get everything tuned and sighted in where you can hit accurately and you know your on, but if your having a bad day shooting for some reason do not try to broadhead tune you will go nuts. Wait till you get settled.
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko shoot broadheads that you’ll be hunting with. If they hit with your field points, you’re good. No sense in sweating it. If they don’t hit with your field points, then we have a potential tuning issue. Some sights are just made with less windage/elevation adjustment than others. What sight are you running?
@@BustedLimbOutdoors Trophy Ridge Hotwire the sight that it came with, I bought a ready to hunt package adapt plus it’s supposed to be a good sight it’s a $179 bucks , I was told it’s a good sight. Thanks for the help.🙏🏽
You guys are awesome, I absolutely love and enjoy this channel and in my opinion it's definitely at the top of the list for archery knowledge and info.
What a wonderful video! It explained every thing which frustrated me for a long time. I had the same experience of writing on the fletchings to mark the flying way of the arrow.
Hey brother, your videos are a game changer for me. It's taken me a while but I was finally able to supertune my alpha x to the point where my fixed blade broadheads are impacting along with my fieldpoints at 20 yards, 30 yards and probably beyond. Two years ago I never would've thought this possible. Some things that dramatically helped me get to this point were getting my cams shimmed based on the bareshaft tune, and ponying up for an ultrarest. The micro adjustments on that thing are insane. Lots of trial and error but to be able to keep coming back and referencing your insights made it all possible. Thank you so much.. happy shooting 😎 @BowOnlyOutdoors
Great video! Which way you move the rest when shooting broadheads always seems like a 50-50 discussion, lol. Glad to see which way you recommended. There's only one right way, with other variables of course, but sheesh it makes for some heated debates. Very cool man. Best of luck out there this season!
Have to say realy great video man!! I love the way you explain things in so much of great details make me understand so much more details i did not think about, im a self bow archer so im not that compoud Oriented, thanx alot for this great video keep up the good work 😊🏹🙏
One last thing that I have seen that causes inconsistent broadhead or even field point impact is nock pinch. Make sure you have a properly fitted nock to your serving on your string. You can test this by removing your nock, place it on the string and twist it. It should twist or move back and forth without grabbing and moving twisting your string. I've seen this when people switch from a regular practice nock to a lighted nock. Many times, the nock sizes are different and will cause inconsistencies with arrow flight.
Very educational video. Doing these things has helped my broadhead accuracy a ton. I still have a strange phenomenon going on with my setup though. Moving the arrow rest increases and decreases the size of the broadhead grouping but does not make it move towards the field point grouping. I'm guessing my arrow spine is not stiff enough or I would have better results.
When I first started bowhunting back in the 60's Before compound bows getting Broadheads like the Fred Bear Razorheads was a real trick. Fast forward to today. In contrast I think you really have To be one of the folks who Constantly are messing around With their setup and have to Try every new doo dad to Have a problem. I bought my First compound in the mid 70's And tried some crappy broadheads like Satellites and Changed to Muzzy 4 blade Heads. Since then I've owned Five compound bows. All shoot Reliably and accurately. Find a Broadhead that works and stop Messing with it. Happy hunting. It's not voodoo.
Great video! Only change I would make is doing walk-back/french tuning instead of bare shaft, it’s a lot more forgiving than trying to shoot a bare shaft for newer shooters. Any tiny change in grip pressure will send a bare shaft very far off and it can be incredibly frustrating
If you shoot a new bowtec you don't need a bow press to make cam adjustments! Also I've never seen broadheads and field points fly exactly the same. They may be really close inside 60 but if you back up to 100 not so much. Always tune for your broadheads before a hunt.
I was wondering about the limb bolts to change the dynamic spine of the arrow. Just like an ilf bow turning the tiller bolts or adding point weight to weaken the spine or less point weight to stiffen the spine of the arrow..
Yes, you can turn your bow weight down by backing out the limb bolts which will make the dynamic spine of your arrow react stiffer as the bow will be pushing less hard against it.
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
You are correct his information about rest adjustment to correct broadheads impact is incorrect. You adjust opposite where the broadheads impact from field points. Hitting left of fieldpoint move rest to the right. Although lots of other useful information in this video. Haven’t seen someone put it all together like this before.
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way. For mechanical release aid shooters... Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left Thank you for watching and I hope this helps!
One part has me confused. It doesn't make sense to me, if your broadhead is impacting right of your field points, isn't it because your arrow is pointing slightly to the right, causing the blades to catch the air and steer the arrow right. Wouldn't we want to make a slight rest adjustment to the left? You said in the video to move right, that has me confused as to why that would correct the problem. Can you explain this part please. Thank you.
@@johnfaulkner4067 please rewatch that full part of the video. Your thinking is in line, but the rest adjustment is the way it is because of the arrow flexing off of the rest in the opposite direction as it’s coming out of the bow.
Nice video. Although when it comes to broadhead tuning, youre wrong when you said if the broadheads are hitting to the right of your field points, move your rest to the right or if theyre hitting left move the rest to the left. Its the other way around. You mean adjust your rest to the left if broadheads are hitting right of the field points and move the rest to the right towards the field points if your broadheads are hitting to the left of field points. Just thought id point that out lol. I just bought new string last year for my bow and tuned my bow in a coopers bowsmith shooting machine to make sure my field points are flying the same as my broadheads. Fortunately I have great arrow flight and the BHs are shooting the same as my FPs. Should I still retune or check my tune to make sure everything is still shooting right before the starting of the new season or is it not necessary to check your tune (unless you buy new strings, new cams, new arrows etc) ? Thanks
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way. For mechanical release aid shooters... Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left You should always tune your bow to how you shoot it, not how someone else or how the machine shoots it. The compound bow is a machine, but you are apart of that machine and you must both be aligned with it to get the arrow flight you desire. I would confirm that your broadheads are impacting where you want them to before you go hunting. Best of luck to you this fall!
Sir I hate to burst your bubble but everyone messes this up. He’s right, you move your rest towards your broadheads. The reasoning behind this is because if your broadhead shoots right of field points that means your arrow is planing nock left and the broadhead is exaggerating this by dumping to the right. By moving the rest to the left, yes your broadhead will hit the target but you’re making your bow come out of tune even worse.
I have a question regarding bare shaft tuning. When bare shaft tuning should I be concerned about both the impact point and the angle of the bare shaft when it impacts the target? Or should I only be concerned about the point impact?
Hey Josh - Thank you for another great informative video. I know there are advantages to using feather fletching, but do you shy away from them do to their noise? Please let me know and God's blessing to you.
Hey Doug, you are very welcome and thank you for watching! I do not shy away from feather fletchings because of noise, but because of their durability overall and inability to steer arrows when wet and in the elements. Feathers will almost always steer better than plastic fletchings, but the upsides of the plastic fletchings are worth it to me for the majority of hunting scenarios. God Bless! - Josh
Great video! What would you say is the minimum poundage for a mechanical broad head to effectively do its job? (Let’s say a mechanical 1 1/3” grim reaper). Also would a longer draw length mean a lower poundage is required compared to a shorter draw length of the same draw weight? Thanks
It’s hard to quantify this with exact metrics, as nothing is an “always” in bowhunting. I’ve known folks to use as low as 45lbs with a 26” draw length use certain mechanicals with success on whitetail deer, but I wouldn’t recommend it as I believe the room for failure is greater with less energy. Most issues I see people have with mechanicals comes from poor shot selection without having enough energy coming out of their bow. I personally like to see hunters have at least a 28” draw length shooting 60lbs to use a mechanical, and prefer a rear deploying mechanical to get a good entrance wound incase there is no exit. Both draw length and bow poundage will have a direct effect on the amount of energy coming out of your bow. Every 5lbs of bow weight is roughly 10 fps and every inch of draw length is roughly 10 fps. So someone shooting a 26” draw length at 80lbs would effectively have the same amount of energy coming out of the bow as a person with a 30” draw length shooting 60lbs. Arrow weight is also a factor in this, but it is minimal the amount of energy gained compared to having a higher bow poundage or draw length.
Thank you very much for these videos! How does one micro tune cam sync? Even with only 1/2 twist in a cable, the timing is ever so slightly off. Any more adjustment and it just flips and the other cam is ahead or behind. I cannot get it exact. Is there a micro tune technique when 1/2 twist is either too much or too little? Thank you.
Cut a small piece of dloop material and pull out the core and insert that into 1 cable. I've not done it but saw.a fellow doing that to micro tune and it makes sense....I do a similar thing above my peep.
Great question! There are a few things you can do here, but usually not a necessity to stress over if you've got it that close. 1. Nocking point position slightly higher or lower can affect this depending on the bow/cam system. 2. thicker or thinner serving replaced around one of the cables. 3. If the end loops are not served, you can twist individual string strands instead of the whole loop/cable. 4. Someone below also mentioned inserting something into one of the cables such as d-loop material without the core. That would work as well. One note here - do this only after you are positive you've broke in your strings and have several hundred shots through them. Note that also, leaving your bow in the heat or in the car can and will stretch your string/cables so it's easy to have them on perfectly, then have them move slightly due to string stretch or settling. I hope this helps! Keep shooting straight.
Awesome, thank you for the thoughtful answers. The bow is an rx7. When I wrote that, I still had stock strings. I’ve been breaking in gas ghost strings since I wrote the question and plan to recheck everything very soon. Cam sync was a hair off when I installed the new strings, but I need to recheck after a couple of weeks shooting. Much appreciate the time you take responded.
thanks mate! awesome tutorial. Can U help me? 28.5", 70lbs Bowtech Prodigy 280fps., real speed Axis 340, 100grains point with common blazer 2" ( I tried Xvane, it dind´t work) Broadhead Slicktrick Standard always flyes consistently to the right (4 inches at 30 yards)... Maybe try Axis 300 or Downgrade my bow to 65 lbs?
Hey mate, depending on what your arrow length is and what weight of insert you use will determine if your arrow is reacting too weak causing the consistent right impact. If your arrow is 28.5" and you're using the standard 16 grain aluminum insert from Easton, this should not be the case. To test, do what you mentioned and turn your bow weight down 5 lbs and see if the problem persists. If it does, it is a bow tune issue, not an arrow spine issue. If it goes away, adjust your arrow to react with a stiffer spine. If it is a bow tune issue, you have a few options. If it is impacting right 4" at 30 yards, you could start by slightly moving your rest to the right. Test and compare to see if your broadheads move closer to your field points as you make this adjustment. On the prodigy, you could also add twists to your left yokes, and remove twists in the right yokes. Minimal adjustment with this would have big results (EX half twist tighter on left yoke for top and bottom and half twist looser on right yoke top and bottom may be all you need) I hope this helps!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thank you very much mate! when I turn my bow weight down 5 lbs the problem dissapear, but i want to shot 70lbs. so if it depends on the shaft (I have an Axis 340), do you recommend trying axis 400 or axis 300?
@@pepe-huntiberic687 if your arrows are cut 28.5”, try cutting them 27” and that should fix it. If you’re getting new shafts, you could keep everything else the same and go to a 300 spine.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I can't cut the shaft that much because it would jeopardize the integrity of my fingers ahahah. so next purchase I'll try 300 spine. Thank you so much for dedicating your time altruistically, if you ever come to spain you are invited to hunt wildboars!!
Yep, a fixed broad head is like adding small wings or fletches up front. Out of tune bows will be letting the BH do some steering. And that's bad news.
I’m having trouble getting my windage right, it’s going all the way left with field points, I have a draw length of 27.5 and a draw weight of 60 lbs single cam adapt plus. All help will be appreciated. 🙏🏽
@@michaelcolthart4006 no I don’t even know what that is . I’m a newbie I took it to a pro shop and they set it up. I’ve got it dialed in to 60 yards just hitting the targets almost middle but the windage is all the way to the left just to keep in the middle and the there’s no more left windage left at all I’m at the limit. Thanks for the help. 🙏🏽
My answer varies depending on what sight you are utilizing as I am unsure of the adjustment you may have based on your mounting bracket and the windage bar. If you tell me the sight brand and model along with how you have it attached and what bow, I may be able to help you further as most sights have additional ways of adjustment to get it to fit appropriately. If not, you may be able to get a different bracket for your sight to get the appropriate adjustment. If the sight is attached normally, it is also possible the rest is outside of centershot too far to the left. To correct this, move your rest back to the right to normal centershot and shim the cams to the right. Only do this if your arrow rest is too far to the left and you've exhausted your resources for adjusting your sight. I hope this helps! -Josh
I slapped broadheads on to the arrows I've been target shooting, and turns out they werent as straight as they used to be, so broadheads were flying inconsistent. Arrow spinner helped me figure out that issue.
shimming isnt needed when using correct form, shops skip to shimming since its quick to compensate hand torque. it doesnt fix the problem longterm, archer gets better with time, then back to the bowshop to put the bow back to where it was. dog chacing its tail cant get it one direction and cant get going the otherway.
Not always true - example would be that you can take 2 bows of the same brand/model/year and not have them have the same shim configuration, yet the center shot is the same and they both tune the same for the same archer… This is because the limbs from bow to bow are not built consistent enough for everything to be equal from bow to bow, regardless of the brand you shoot. It seems that most shops are too lazy to adjust the shims, so they just adjust the rest and call it good, when really, the shims need the adjustment. You are correct in the fact that most archers/bowhunters in general have the issues they do because of their bow grip. They adjust shims to compensate for their bad grip, then over time, learn the proper grip and adjust back. Just don’t want anyone to be confused here so commenting back to give more context. Thanks for watching!
The obsession with trying to get broadheads and field points to hit in the exact same spot never made sense to me. You square everything up, paper tune and confirm your arrow is flying perfectly straight...then shoot a broadhead and it has a diff POI magically you come to the conclusion that the bow isn't tuned 😂😂😂. OR could it simply be broadheads have a different POI due to more air resistance and wings compared to field points?
Aaaahhhhh, such a good video ruined by saying fletchings steer arrows! They don’t steer arrows, they stabilize them. Arrows are ballistic missiles, not guided missiles meaning nothing is steering them…..sorry, a pet peeve for me, great video other than that.
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
Thank you. Sorry for any confusion, but what I state in the video is correct. Perhaps the other videos you watched were on bowhunters shooting with fingers, and not a mechanical release aid. If shooting with fingers, you would have to move the rest opposite of what I state in the video.
25+ years in the industry, and this is one of the most thorough and accurate videos that I have ever seen. Thank you so much for providing it!
Thank you very much!
Great video. Been watching you for a while now and you have made me a better shooter and hunter. Thank you
We’re so glad you’ve found our videos helpful! Thank you for letting us know. More to come!
One of the best videos on the subject
Thank you so much!
Great video my friend, only thing I would add is when you get everything tuned and sighted in where you can hit accurately and you know your on, but if your having a bad day shooting for some reason do not try to broadhead tune you will go nuts. Wait till you get settled.
This is true life right here!
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko your windage on your sight is all the way to the left to hit with field points or broadheads or both?
@@BustedLimbOutdoorsfield points. I’m driving myself crazy, I think the pro shop didn’t do something right but I can’t figure it out.
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko shoot broadheads that you’ll be hunting with. If they hit with your field points, you’re good. No sense in sweating it.
If they don’t hit with your field points, then we have a potential tuning issue.
Some sights are just made with less windage/elevation adjustment than others. What sight are you running?
@@BustedLimbOutdoors Trophy Ridge Hotwire the sight that it came with, I bought a ready to hunt package adapt plus it’s supposed to be a good sight it’s a $179 bucks , I was told it’s a good sight.
Thanks for the help.🙏🏽
You guys are awesome, I absolutely love and enjoy this channel and in my opinion it's definitely at the top of the list for archery knowledge and info.
Wow, thank you so much!
What a wonderful video! It explained every thing which frustrated me for a long time. I had the same experience of writing on the fletchings to mark the flying way of the arrow.
Hey brother, your videos are a game changer for me. It's taken me a while but I was finally able to supertune my alpha x to the point where my fixed blade broadheads are impacting along with my fieldpoints at 20 yards, 30 yards and probably beyond. Two years ago I never would've thought this possible. Some things that dramatically helped me get to this point were getting my cams shimmed based on the bareshaft tune, and ponying up for an ultrarest. The micro adjustments on that thing are insane. Lots of trial and error but to be able to keep coming back and referencing your insights made it all possible. Thank you so much.. happy shooting 😎 @BowOnlyOutdoors
@@stephentibbles544 so awesome! Thank you for commenting and we are so glad our videos have been helpful for you!
Great video! Which way you move the rest when shooting broadheads always seems like a 50-50 discussion, lol. Glad to see which way you recommended. There's only one right way, with other variables of course, but sheesh it makes for some heated debates. Very cool man. Best of luck out there this season!
Have to say realy great video man!! I love the way you explain things in so much of great details make me understand so much more details i did not think about, im a self bow archer so im not that compoud Oriented, thanx alot for this great video keep up the good work 😊🏹🙏
I appreciate that! Thank you
In depth! Great vid
One last thing that I have seen that causes inconsistent broadhead or even field point impact is nock pinch. Make sure you have a properly fitted nock to your serving on your string. You can test this by removing your nock, place it on the string and twist it. It should twist or move back and forth without grabbing and moving twisting your string. I've seen this when people switch from a regular practice nock to a lighted nock. Many times, the nock sizes are different and will cause inconsistencies with arrow flight.
Very educational video. Doing these things has helped my broadhead accuracy a ton. I still have a strange phenomenon going on with my setup though. Moving the arrow rest increases and decreases the size of the broadhead grouping but does not make it move towards the field point grouping. I'm guessing my arrow spine is not stiff enough or I would have better results.
When I first started bowhunting back in the 60's
Before compound bows getting
Broadheads like the Fred Bear
Razorheads was a real trick.
Fast forward to today. In contrast I think you really have
To be one of the folks who
Constantly are messing around
With their setup and have to
Try every new doo dad to
Have a problem. I bought my
First compound in the mid 70's
And tried some crappy broadheads like Satellites and
Changed to Muzzy 4 blade
Heads. Since then I've owned
Five compound bows. All shoot
Reliably and accurately. Find a
Broadhead that works and stop
Messing with it. Happy hunting.
It's not voodoo.
Concise and to the point. Great video.
Much appreciated! Thank you
Great video! Very descriptive! Thank you!
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Only change I would make is doing walk-back/french tuning instead of bare shaft, it’s a lot more forgiving than trying to shoot a bare shaft for newer shooters. Any tiny change in grip pressure will send a bare shaft very far off and it can be incredibly frustrating
You are correct. The bareshafts are not forgiving for any archer unless your form is extremely consistent.
I would definitely aim at different dots or a different spot make a couple dots on the target something
If you shoot a new bowtec you don't need a bow press to make cam adjustments! Also I've never seen broadheads and field points fly exactly the same. They may be really close inside 60 but if you back up to 100 not so much. Always tune for your broadheads before a hunt.
Play some definitely be a part of my playlist it always messes with me that you have to move the rest the opposite way
Nice video boys
Thanks gentlemen!
i agree with your statement on spine alignment and vane alignment. I have tried it many times and found no change in arrow flight with broadheads.
Nock tuning yes, but spine alignment and vane alignment I have just never seen a difference.
Very good video glad i found this
Thanks! I hope it helps!
Thanks American brother ❤
I was wondering about the limb bolts to change the dynamic spine of the arrow. Just like an ilf bow turning the tiller bolts or adding point weight to weaken the spine or less point weight to stiffen the spine of the arrow..
Yes, you can turn your bow weight down by backing out the limb bolts which will make the dynamic spine of your arrow react stiffer as the bow will be pushing less hard against it.
Where do you get those huge targets? Are they good for field tips and broad head?
Fantastic video!
Thank you so much!
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure! We hope it helps!
Can you do a video on re-fleching Arrows.
Check out our 20 steps to building perfect arrows video, I cover it briefly in there.
Awesome tutorial thanks so much 👍
Happy to help! Thank you for watching.
Great video, thank you
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
You are correct his information about rest adjustment to correct broadheads impact is incorrect. You adjust opposite where the broadheads impact from field points. Hitting left of fieldpoint move rest to the right. Although lots of other useful information in this video. Haven’t seen someone put it all together like this before.
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way.
For mechanical release aid shooters...
Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right
Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left
Thank you for watching and I hope this helps!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors exact!
One part has me confused. It doesn't make sense to me, if your broadhead is impacting right of your field points, isn't it because your arrow is pointing slightly to the right, causing the blades to catch the air and steer the arrow right. Wouldn't we want to make a slight rest adjustment to the left? You said in the video to move right, that has me confused as to why that would correct the problem. Can you explain this part please. Thank you.
@@johnfaulkner4067 please rewatch that full part of the video. Your thinking is in line, but the rest adjustment is the way it is because of the arrow flexing off of the rest in the opposite direction as it’s coming out of the bow.
Good stuff!
Nice video. Although when it comes to broadhead tuning, youre wrong when you said if the broadheads are hitting to the right of your field points, move your rest to the right or if theyre hitting left move the rest to the left. Its the other way around. You mean adjust your rest to the left if broadheads are hitting right of the field points and move the rest to the right towards the field points if your broadheads are hitting to the left of field points. Just thought id point that out lol.
I just bought new string last year for my bow and tuned my bow in a coopers bowsmith shooting machine to make sure my field points are flying the same as my broadheads. Fortunately I have great arrow flight and the BHs are shooting the same as my FPs. Should I still retune or check my tune to make sure everything is still shooting right before the starting of the new season or is it not necessary to check your tune (unless you buy new strings, new cams, new arrows etc) ?
Thanks
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way.
For mechanical release aid shooters...
Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right
Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left
You should always tune your bow to how you shoot it, not how someone else or how the machine shoots it. The compound bow is a machine, but you are apart of that machine and you must both be aligned with it to get the arrow flight you desire. I would confirm that your broadheads are impacting where you want them to before you go hunting. Best of luck to you this fall!
Sir I hate to burst your bubble but everyone messes this up. He’s right, you move your rest towards your broadheads. The reasoning behind this is because if your broadhead shoots right of field points that means your arrow is planing nock left and the broadhead is exaggerating this by dumping to the right.
By moving the rest to the left, yes your broadhead will hit the target but you’re making your bow come out of tune even worse.
I have a question regarding bare shaft tuning. When bare shaft tuning should I be concerned about both the impact point and the angle of the bare shaft when it impacts the target? Or should I only be concerned about the point impact?
Both
Both. If impact point is the same but the nock end is angled, take a few steps back and you will see the bareshaft impact point change.
Awesome video.
Ahh thank You..i will 100%visit your page
You guys are the shit! Great video! #GBR!!
Hey Josh - Thank you for another great informative video. I know there are advantages to using feather fletching, but do you shy away from them do to their noise? Please let me know and God's blessing to you.
Hey Doug, you are very welcome and thank you for watching! I do not shy away from feather fletchings because of noise, but because of their durability overall and inability to steer arrows when wet and in the elements. Feathers will almost always steer better than plastic fletchings, but the upsides of the plastic fletchings are worth it to me for the majority of hunting scenarios. God Bless! - Josh
Great video! What would you say is the minimum poundage for a mechanical broad head to effectively do its job? (Let’s say a mechanical 1 1/3” grim reaper). Also would a longer draw length mean a lower poundage is required compared to a shorter draw length of the same draw weight? Thanks
It’s hard to quantify this with exact metrics, as nothing is an “always” in bowhunting. I’ve known folks to use as low as 45lbs with a 26” draw length use certain mechanicals with success on whitetail deer, but I wouldn’t recommend it as I believe the room for failure is greater with less energy.
Most issues I see people have with mechanicals comes from poor shot selection without having enough energy coming out of their bow. I personally like to see hunters have at least a 28” draw length shooting 60lbs to use a mechanical, and prefer a rear deploying mechanical to get a good entrance wound incase there is no exit.
Both draw length and bow poundage will have a direct effect on the amount of energy coming out of your bow. Every 5lbs of bow weight is roughly 10 fps and every inch of draw length is roughly 10 fps. So someone shooting a 26” draw length at 80lbs would effectively have the same amount of energy coming out of the bow as a person with a 30” draw length shooting 60lbs.
Arrow weight is also a factor in this, but it is minimal the amount of energy gained compared to having a higher bow poundage or draw length.
If broadhead is hitting left of target arrows...... move left? Broadhead catches air and drifts left, correct? The rest is too far left is it not?
ua-cam.com/video/lQQnc1axz9U/v-deo.html
What material do you use on your rest? Thanks!
@@CalPoly2015 small piece of hockey stick tape
Thank you very much for these videos! How does one micro tune cam sync? Even with only 1/2 twist in a cable, the timing is ever so slightly off. Any more adjustment and it just flips and the other cam is ahead or behind. I cannot get it exact. Is there a micro tune technique when 1/2 twist is either too much or too little? Thank you.
What bow?
Cut a small piece of dloop material and pull out the core and insert that into 1 cable. I've not done it but saw.a fellow doing that to micro tune and it makes sense....I do a similar thing above my peep.
Great question! There are a few things you can do here, but usually not a necessity to stress over if you've got it that close.
1. Nocking point position slightly higher or lower can affect this depending on the bow/cam system.
2. thicker or thinner serving replaced around one of the cables.
3. If the end loops are not served, you can twist individual string strands instead of the whole loop/cable.
4. Someone below also mentioned inserting something into one of the cables such as d-loop material without the core. That would work as well.
One note here - do this only after you are positive you've broke in your strings and have several hundred shots through them. Note that also, leaving your bow in the heat or in the car can and will stretch your string/cables so it's easy to have them on perfectly, then have them move slightly due to string stretch or settling.
I hope this helps! Keep shooting straight.
Awesome, thank you for the thoughtful answers. The bow is an rx7. When I wrote that, I still had stock strings. I’ve been breaking in gas ghost strings since I wrote the question and plan to recheck everything very soon. Cam sync was a hair off when I installed the new strings, but I need to recheck after a couple of weeks shooting. Much appreciate the time you take responded.
Ok, but what about large flaming arrows when I am Attacking a fort or having the back straps cooked medium well once I find my deer? 🧐
You have to have a hoyt for that mod
thanks mate! awesome tutorial. Can U help me?
28.5", 70lbs Bowtech Prodigy
280fps., real speed
Axis 340, 100grains point with common blazer 2" ( I tried Xvane, it dind´t work)
Broadhead Slicktrick Standard always flyes consistently to the right (4 inches at 30 yards)...
Maybe try Axis 300 or Downgrade my bow to 65 lbs?
Hey mate, depending on what your arrow length is and what weight of insert you use will determine if your arrow is reacting too weak causing the consistent right impact. If your arrow is 28.5" and you're using the standard 16 grain aluminum insert from Easton, this should not be the case. To test, do what you mentioned and turn your bow weight down 5 lbs and see if the problem persists. If it does, it is a bow tune issue, not an arrow spine issue. If it goes away, adjust your arrow to react with a stiffer spine.
If it is a bow tune issue, you have a few options. If it is impacting right 4" at 30 yards, you could start by slightly moving your rest to the right. Test and compare to see if your broadheads move closer to your field points as you make this adjustment. On the prodigy, you could also add twists to your left yokes, and remove twists in the right yokes. Minimal adjustment with this would have big results (EX half twist tighter on left yoke for top and bottom and half twist looser on right yoke top and bottom may be all you need)
I hope this helps!
@@BowOnlyOutdoors Thank you very much mate! when I turn my bow weight down 5 lbs the problem dissapear, but i want to shot 70lbs.
so if it depends on the shaft (I have an Axis 340), do you recommend trying axis 400 or axis 300?
@@pepe-huntiberic687 if your arrows are cut 28.5”, try cutting them 27” and that should fix it. If you’re getting new shafts, you could keep everything else the same and go to a 300 spine.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors I can't cut the shaft that much because it would jeopardize the integrity of my fingers ahahah. so next purchase I'll try 300 spine.
Thank you so much for dedicating your time altruistically, if you ever come to spain you are invited to hunt wildboars!!
So dumb question. The broad head will affect the arrow flight path? I thought it made little to no difference compared to field tips.
If your bow is not tuned, yes it will.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you for the response 🙏
Yep, a fixed broad head is like adding small wings or fletches up front. Out of tune bows will be letting the BH do some steering. And that's bad news.
I’m having trouble getting my windage right, it’s going all the way left with field points, I have a draw length of 27.5 and a draw weight of 60 lbs single cam adapt plus. All help will be appreciated. 🙏🏽
Have you checked your static cam lean?
@@michaelcolthart4006 no I don’t even know what that is . I’m a newbie I took it to a pro shop and they set it up. I’ve got it dialed in to 60 yards just hitting the targets almost middle but the windage is all the way to the left just to keep in the middle and the there’s no more left windage left at all I’m at the limit. Thanks for the help. 🙏🏽
@@michaelcolthart4006 thanks for the help🙏🏽
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko perhaps flip your scope housing I had to w/HHA Scope…Josh will chime in 🏆
My answer varies depending on what sight you are utilizing as I am unsure of the adjustment you may have based on your mounting bracket and the windage bar. If you tell me the sight brand and model along with how you have it attached and what bow, I may be able to help you further as most sights have additional ways of adjustment to get it to fit appropriately. If not, you may be able to get a different bracket for your sight to get the appropriate adjustment.
If the sight is attached normally, it is also possible the rest is outside of centershot too far to the left. To correct this, move your rest back to the right to normal centershot and shim the cams to the right. Only do this if your arrow rest is too far to the left and you've exhausted your resources for adjusting your sight.
I hope this helps!
-Josh
The grey one
What's the specs on your bow and arrows?
I go over my specs at 4:54 in the video
Hello from 🇩🇰 what is the name of your bow.its really important for me to know.thank you
Hoyt RX-8
Thank you 👍🎯
Tuning caused me to quit compound bows.
A stiffer vane helps big time with BH flight also... Not pushing TAC vanes but they steer and arrow better that a softer vane...
I need help please.
@@markmack5113 let us know what we can do to help!
I slapped broadheads on to the arrows I've been target shooting, and turns out they werent as straight as they used to be, so broadheads were flying inconsistent. Arrow spinner helped me figure out that issue.
shimming isnt needed when using correct form, shops skip to shimming since its quick to compensate hand torque. it doesnt fix the problem longterm, archer gets better with time, then back to the bowshop to put the bow back to where it was. dog chacing its tail cant get it one direction and cant get going the otherway.
Not always true - example would be that you can take 2 bows of the same brand/model/year and not have them have the same shim configuration, yet the center shot is the same and they both tune the same for the same archer…
This is because the limbs from bow to bow are not built consistent enough for everything to be equal from bow to bow, regardless of the brand you shoot.
It seems that most shops are too lazy to adjust the shims, so they just adjust the rest and call it good, when really, the shims need the adjustment.
You are correct in the fact that most archers/bowhunters in general have the issues they do because of their bow grip. They adjust shims to compensate for their bad grip, then over time, learn the proper grip and adjust back.
Just don’t want anyone to be confused here so commenting back to give more context. Thanks for watching!
The obsession with trying to get broadheads and field points to hit in the exact same spot never made sense to me. You square everything up, paper tune and confirm your arrow is flying perfectly straight...then shoot a broadhead and it has a diff POI magically you come to the conclusion that the bow isn't tuned 😂😂😂. OR could it simply be broadheads have a different POI due to more air resistance and wings compared to field points?
dont use field points, just use broadheads
Martinez Dorothy Harris Barbara Jones Jessica
Aaaahhhhh, such a good video ruined by saying fletchings steer arrows! They don’t steer arrows, they stabilize them. Arrows are ballistic missiles, not guided missiles meaning nothing is steering them…..sorry, a pet peeve for me, great video other than that.
Just cool it with the "well ackshually" gamma nonsense. Nobody is confused that arrows have an active steering system.
Aaaaahhhh, such a dumb comment.....
I bet you’re super fun at parties.
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
Thank you. Sorry for any confusion, but what I state in the video is correct. Perhaps the other videos you watched were on bowhunters shooting with fingers, and not a mechanical release aid. If shooting with fingers, you would have to move the rest opposite of what I state in the video.
I thought the same thing....confusing because it seems like opposite of the theory behind the vertical adjustments
It is confusing for sure. I discuss it in detail in the video.