Complete Guide To Broadhead Tuning
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- A step by step guide that goes through every key factor of broadhead flight and broadhead tuning for a bowhunter to help you achieve the utmost forgiveness and accuracy with your broadheads out of your hunting bow. Follow these steps, and your broadheads will be flying straight and impacting with your field points. Best of luck to you this season!
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Great video my friend, only thing I would add is when you get everything tuned and sighted in where you can hit accurately and you know your on, but if your having a bad day shooting for some reason do not try to broadhead tune you will go nuts. Wait till you get settled.
This is true life right here!
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko your windage on your sight is all the way to the left to hit with field points or broadheads or both?
@@BustedLimbOutdoorsfield points. I’m driving myself crazy, I think the pro shop didn’t do something right but I can’t figure it out.
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko shoot broadheads that you’ll be hunting with. If they hit with your field points, you’re good. No sense in sweating it.
If they don’t hit with your field points, then we have a potential tuning issue.
Some sights are just made with less windage/elevation adjustment than others. What sight are you running?
@@BustedLimbOutdoors Trophy Ridge Hotwire the sight that it came with, I bought a ready to hunt package adapt plus it’s supposed to be a good sight it’s a $179 bucks , I was told it’s a good sight.
Thanks for the help.🙏🏽
Concise and to the point. Great video.
One of the best videos on the subject
Thank you so much!
You guys are awesome, I absolutely love and enjoy this channel and in my opinion it's definitely at the top of the list for archery knowledge and info.
Wow, thank you so much!
Great video! Only change I would make is doing walk-back/french tuning instead of bare shaft, it’s a lot more forgiving than trying to shoot a bare shaft for newer shooters. Any tiny change in grip pressure will send a bare shaft very far off and it can be incredibly frustrating
You are correct. The bareshafts are not forgiving for any archer unless your form is extremely consistent.
Great information, thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Very descriptive! Thank you!
In depth! Great vid
I’ve always used a smaller fixed blade head like Slick Trick standards or Magnus Black Hornets. After experimenting with many vane setups I’ve found for me a four vane around 2.3- 2.5 length with lower height profile at 2 degrees straight offset gives optimum flight. I prefer this smaller arrow profile ( vanes and smaller style head) as it gives me way better long range accuracy with either broadhead ( 80 yards is my max test distance). Personally, I see no advantage to using those 4 or 5 mm shaft’s requiring collars outserts etc. Standard diameter shafts with internal inserts work perfectly for me. 62#’s at 28” dl. Black Eagle .001 Carnivore at 416 grain finished hunting arrow weight. Very seldom do I not have 100% pass through hits. But the max distance I can remember shooting a deer was 36 yards. The only reason I test flight to like 80 is for a follow up or for a coyote etc out past my normal shooting distance. 👍👍
Great video, thank you
Awesome tutorial thanks so much 👍
Happy to help! Thank you for watching.
Nice video boys
Thanks gentlemen!
Good stuff! Thanks for sharing!
Our pleasure! We hope it helps!
Ahh thank You..i will 100%visit your page
Fantastic video!
Thank you so much!
Awesome video.
Good stuff!
If you shoot a new bowtec you don't need a bow press to make cam adjustments! Also I've never seen broadheads and field points fly exactly the same. They may be really close inside 60 but if you back up to 100 not so much. Always tune for your broadheads before a hunt.
i agree with your statement on spine alignment and vane alignment. I have tried it many times and found no change in arrow flight with broadheads.
Nock tuning yes, but spine alignment and vane alignment I have just never seen a difference.
You guys are the shit! Great video! #GBR!!
I was wondering about the limb bolts to change the dynamic spine of the arrow. Just like an ilf bow turning the tiller bolts or adding point weight to weaken the spine or less point weight to stiffen the spine of the arrow..
Yes, you can turn your bow weight down by backing out the limb bolts which will make the dynamic spine of your arrow react stiffer as the bow will be pushing less hard against it.
Nice video. Although when it comes to broadhead tuning, youre wrong when you said if the broadheads are hitting to the right of your field points, move your rest to the right or if theyre hitting left move the rest to the left. Its the other way around. You mean adjust your rest to the left if broadheads are hitting right of the field points and move the rest to the right towards the field points if your broadheads are hitting to the left of field points. Just thought id point that out lol.
I just bought new string last year for my bow and tuned my bow in a coopers bowsmith shooting machine to make sure my field points are flying the same as my broadheads. Fortunately I have great arrow flight and the BHs are shooting the same as my FPs. Should I still retune or check my tune to make sure everything is still shooting right before the starting of the new season or is it not necessary to check your tune (unless you buy new strings, new cams, new arrows etc) ?
Thanks
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way.
For mechanical release aid shooters...
Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right
Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left
You should always tune your bow to how you shoot it, not how someone else or how the machine shoots it. The compound bow is a machine, but you are apart of that machine and you must both be aligned with it to get the arrow flight you desire. I would confirm that your broadheads are impacting where you want them to before you go hunting. Best of luck to you this fall!
Sir I hate to burst your bubble but everyone messes this up. He’s right, you move your rest towards your broadheads. The reasoning behind this is because if your broadhead shoots right of field points that means your arrow is planing nock left and the broadhead is exaggerating this by dumping to the right.
By moving the rest to the left, yes your broadhead will hit the target but you’re making your bow come out of tune even worse.
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
Thank you. Sorry for any confusion, but what I state in the video is correct. Perhaps the other videos you watched were on bowhunters shooting with fingers, and not a mechanical release aid. If shooting with fingers, you would have to move the rest opposite of what I state in the video.
I have a question regarding bare shaft tuning. When bare shaft tuning should I be concerned about both the impact point and the angle of the bare shaft when it impacts the target? Or should I only be concerned about the point impact?
Both
Both. If impact point is the same but the nock end is angled, take a few steps back and you will see the bareshaft impact point change.
thanks mate! awesome tutorial. Can U help me?
28.5", 70lbs Bowtech Prodigy
280fps., real speed
Axis 340, 100grains point with common blazer 2" ( I tried Xvane, it dind´t work)
Broadhead Slicktrick Standard always flyes consistently to the right (4 inches at 30 yards)...
Maybe try Axis 300 or Downgrade my bow to 65 lbs?
Hey mate, depending on what your arrow length is and what weight of insert you use will determine if your arrow is reacting too weak causing the consistent right impact. If your arrow is 28.5" and you're using the standard 16 grain aluminum insert from Easton, this should not be the case. To test, do what you mentioned and turn your bow weight down 5 lbs and see if the problem persists. If it does, it is a bow tune issue, not an arrow spine issue. If it goes away, adjust your arrow to react with a stiffer spine.
If it is a bow tune issue, you have a few options. If it is impacting right 4" at 30 yards, you could start by slightly moving your rest to the right. Test and compare to see if your broadheads move closer to your field points as you make this adjustment. On the prodigy, you could also add twists to your left yokes, and remove twists in the right yokes. Minimal adjustment with this would have big results (EX half twist tighter on left yoke for top and bottom and half twist looser on right yoke top and bottom may be all you need)
I hope this helps!
Ok, but what about large flaming arrows when I am Attacking a fort or having the back straps cooked medium well once I find my deer? 🧐
You have to have a hoyt for that mod
The grey one
A stiffer vane helps big time with BH flight also... Not pushing TAC vanes but they steer and arrow better that a softer vane...
Hey Josh - Thank you for another great informative video. I know there are advantages to using feather fletching, but do you shy away from them do to their noise? Please let me know and God's blessing to you.
Hey Doug, you are very welcome and thank you for watching! I do not shy away from feather fletchings because of noise, but because of their durability overall and inability to steer arrows when wet and in the elements. Feathers will almost always steer better than plastic fletchings, but the upsides of the plastic fletchings are worth it to me for the majority of hunting scenarios. God Bless! - Josh
I slapped broadheads on to the arrows I've been target shooting, and turns out they werent as straight as they used to be, so broadheads were flying inconsistent. Arrow spinner helped me figure out that issue.
Thank you very much for these videos! How does one micro tune cam sync? Even with only 1/2 twist in a cable, the timing is ever so slightly off. Any more adjustment and it just flips and the other cam is ahead or behind. I cannot get it exact. Is there a micro tune technique when 1/2 twist is either too much or too little? Thank you.
What bow?
Cut a small piece of dloop material and pull out the core and insert that into 1 cable. I've not done it but saw.a fellow doing that to micro tune and it makes sense....I do a similar thing above my peep.
Great question! There are a few things you can do here, but usually not a necessity to stress over if you've got it that close.
1. Nocking point position slightly higher or lower can affect this depending on the bow/cam system.
2. thicker or thinner serving replaced around one of the cables.
3. If the end loops are not served, you can twist individual string strands instead of the whole loop/cable.
4. Someone below also mentioned inserting something into one of the cables such as d-loop material without the core. That would work as well.
One note here - do this only after you are positive you've broke in your strings and have several hundred shots through them. Note that also, leaving your bow in the heat or in the car can and will stretch your string/cables so it's easy to have them on perfectly, then have them move slightly due to string stretch or settling.
I hope this helps! Keep shooting straight.
Awesome, thank you for the thoughtful answers. The bow is an rx7. When I wrote that, I still had stock strings. I’ve been breaking in gas ghost strings since I wrote the question and plan to recheck everything very soon. Cam sync was a hair off when I installed the new strings, but I need to recheck after a couple of weeks shooting. Much appreciate the time you take responded.
What material do you use on your rest? Thanks!
@@CalPoly2015 small piece of hockey stick tape
So dumb question. The broad head will affect the arrow flight path? I thought it made little to no difference compared to field tips.
If your bow is not tuned, yes it will.
@@BowOnlyOutdoors thank you for the response 🙏
Yep, a fixed broad head is like adding small wings or fletches up front. Out of tune bows will be letting the BH do some steering. And that's bad news.
Hello from 🇩🇰 what is the name of your bow.its really important for me to know.thank you
Hoyt RX-8
Thank you 👍🎯
What's the specs on your bow and arrows?
I go over my specs at 4:54 in the video
I’m having trouble getting my windage right, it’s going all the way left with field points, I have a draw length of 27.5 and a draw weight of 60 lbs single cam adapt plus. All help will be appreciated. 🙏🏽
Have you checked your static cam lean?
@@michaelcolthart4006 no I don’t even know what that is . I’m a newbie I took it to a pro shop and they set it up. I’ve got it dialed in to 60 yards just hitting the targets almost middle but the windage is all the way to the left just to keep in the middle and the there’s no more left windage left at all I’m at the limit. Thanks for the help. 🙏🏽
@@michaelcolthart4006 thanks for the help🙏🏽
@@juanrodriguez-mu7ko perhaps flip your scope housing I had to w/HHA Scope…Josh will chime in 🏆
My answer varies depending on what sight you are utilizing as I am unsure of the adjustment you may have based on your mounting bracket and the windage bar. If you tell me the sight brand and model along with how you have it attached and what bow, I may be able to help you further as most sights have additional ways of adjustment to get it to fit appropriately. If not, you may be able to get a different bracket for your sight to get the appropriate adjustment.
If the sight is attached normally, it is also possible the rest is outside of centershot too far to the left. To correct this, move your rest back to the right to normal centershot and shim the cams to the right. Only do this if your arrow rest is too far to the left and you've exhausted your resources for adjusting your sight.
I hope this helps!
-Josh
shimming isnt needed when using correct form, shops skip to shimming since its quick to compensate hand torque. it doesnt fix the problem longterm, archer gets better with time, then back to the bowshop to put the bow back to where it was. dog chacing its tail cant get it one direction and cant get going the otherway.
Not always true - example would be that you can take 2 bows of the same brand/model/year and not have them have the same shim configuration, yet the center shot is the same and they both tune the same for the same archer…
This is because the limbs from bow to bow are not built consistent enough for everything to be equal from bow to bow, regardless of the brand you shoot.
It seems that most shops are too lazy to adjust the shims, so they just adjust the rest and call it good, when really, the shims need the adjustment.
You are correct in the fact that most archers/bowhunters in general have the issues they do because of their bow grip. They adjust shims to compensate for their bad grip, then over time, learn the proper grip and adjust back.
Just don’t want anyone to be confused here so commenting back to give more context. Thanks for watching!
dont use field points, just use broadheads
Aaaahhhhh, such a good video ruined by saying fletchings steer arrows! They don’t steer arrows, they stabilize them. Arrows are ballistic missiles, not guided missiles meaning nothing is steering them…..sorry, a pet peeve for me, great video other than that.
Just cool it with the "well ackshually" gamma nonsense. Nobody is confused that arrows have an active steering system.
Aaaaahhhh, such a dumb comment.....
I bet you’re super fun at parties.
Great video, full of information. I’m confused about the rest adjustment for windage, other videos I’ve watched suggest doing the opposite rest adjustment. If broadheads impact right of field points, I thought you needed to adjust rest to the left?
You are correct his information about rest adjustment to correct broadheads impact is incorrect. You adjust opposite where the broadheads impact from field points. Hitting left of fieldpoint move rest to the right. Although lots of other useful information in this video. Haven’t seen someone put it all together like this before.
There seems to be constant confusion here between bowhunters and I just want to confirm what I stated in the video. I discuss the horizontal rest adjustments in the video and why sometimes it may be opposite. The only time its recommended to do what you stated is if you are shooting with fingers and not a mechanical release aid because of how the spine of the arrow bends and reacts when they are shot that way.
For mechanical release aid shooters...
Broadhead right of your field points = move rest to the right
Broadheads left of your field point = move rest to the left
Thank you for watching and I hope this helps!