Got your own suggestions for tools or a follow-up video? Let us know below! All the tools used in this video: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/artis-opus-bundles/byron-recommends store.artis-opus.com/ - Our full range of brushes All the above ship worldwide!
I used to use the same plastic glue as you did, but then was able to change to Tamiya extra thin and have never looked back, to me the brush applicator is just so much cleaner. Also you can buy two bottles and turn one into sprue goo, which is another life safer for filling in smaller gaps on models (I often use the sprue goo instead of glue for gappy connections where it needs to be smooth, such as ones on cloaks or shoulderpads). Additionally, for gun based armies, I would say a hobby drill is also essential, I can't live with my barrels undrilled!
@@FlinginFu throw in the pieces of the used sprue and wait until the acetone mix in the cement glue dissolves plastic - after throwing in a few pieces you'll get your own sprue goo
Agreed, a pin vice & an assortment of tiny drill bits is essential - both for drilling gun barrels, and making holes for pinning models to bases or adding pins to poory-supported joins
Tamiya just changed their formulation to a new faster-drying one and I'm not a fan of the new one - it sets absurdly quickly for the sort of modelling we do, and seems designed for Airfix-style kits which you glue by holding the pieces together and tracing glue around the edges. It also seems to adhere badly to standard GW bases.
I am a very casual hobbyist, with no real dedicated space for building, painting or storing my gaming models and tools. With this in mind I use a lot of my tools for things they aren't designed for like using the back of my knife for removing mould lines, and paint pots for sub-assembly holders etc. But there are 2 things specifically i use all the time - one is Blu-Tac for test fitting and trying out poses for arms/legs when converting or kitbashing. The second is baking powder, this and superglue makes big gaps easy to fill and flimsy connections usually stronger than the normal plastic joints. Also it cures almost instantly and I can sand, cut and re-sculpt it just as easy as plastic. I 100% agree you should make more videos like this and maybe even break apart the building side and the painting side into separate videos. Personally I'd like more converting and kitbashing videos as this is pretty much all i do. Would love videos on using greenstuff too - always helpful!
Old-school model railroader here, recently exposed to mini painting. I consider a good set of dental tools essential. Ask your dentist for any used/broken dental tools. There are scrapers, gougers, picks, etc. in many shapes that I use all the time for scoring lines, applying a pin-point of glue, pricking a starting hole for drilling, and SO much more. My dentist had a large box full and let me pick out a dozen. For FREE (well, the cost of a dental visit...) And as for a different way to use tools I don't hear much anymore, it has to be using the BACK edge of an Xacto to scrape seam lines. It is very aggressive and can really hog away the material, but if that's what you're looking for, it'll do it. Then the sharp edge can be used gently to clean up the work and the sanding stick/sponge for finishing. Great tip on the round blade...I need to give that a try. Fingers crossed for the give-away. I've coveted a nice set of dry-brushes for a long time now...
Mine supplied me with a full set of root canal files (sterilised after my root canal work) They're brilliant as micro twist drills for plastic and balsa.
Blue handle Godhand clippers, best $55 you’ll spend on hobby tools. Do NOT, without thinking, cut a paperclip with them to use as a pin because they will break. Then they actually cost $110.
This. I also suggest making warning labels to stick on your sprue cutters to help stop you doing that without thinking. Especially if you're of the ADHD persuasion.
I abused a Xuron cutter like this but was able to file it back to a sharp, straight edge so they're not gone forever, just in need of repair. The problem (soft dent-able metal) is the solution (soft, file-able metal!)
Life changing hobby hack I discovered, I also noticed the more blunt blades scrape better, however no need to keep a blunt blade in your knife, just flip the knife over and use the spine of the blade, just as good if not better than a mould line remover tool and it's a sharp knife in one tool !
Couple tips - Tamiya glue, then refill your applicator bottles. It's very liquid if you get the thin glue, but totally worth it. for scraping off lines, the back of a blade is sometimes better f it's only a light touch needed. I like sanding sticks too but find that I'm more familiar and comfortable with knives - just used them more through my life. Getting an inexpensive set of clippers is also a good idea. Even nail clippers, to avoid messing your fine cutters. Godhand is of course there, but Knipex are also excellent. Unfortunately in the same price range - mine don't get used for anything except fine work.
I'm a relative newbie, started only a few months ago, think my most essential tool is a pair of TWEEZERS! I find small models with many parts can be quite fiddly; a pair of precision tweezers are great for helping reach/assemble small bits/areas, I have a straight pair and an angled pair, both get used... a lot! (also, always keep some toothpicks and cotton buds handy too, great for precision application of glue and mopping up overspill!)
Two things I use all the time when building are a small desktop vacuum. Try using one for a week after cleaning a bunch of parts and you will be surprised how much it picks up. The other item is a knife proof finger guard, I put one over my thumb and it lets me have a lot more confidence to use a knife without slicing myself!
Wowstick. Hands down the best tool I spent money on. Makes drilling barrels so much easier. Also pinning. Once you get to the point where you're making custom bases and painting them before attaching the mini, you will appreciate a tool that can drill through most of materials fast and easy while maintaining an angle. And the satisfying whirl sound as it bites into resin. Best purchase ever :)
I would love to see more D&D focused models and painting techniques. I love your videos. Your painting techniques have really clicked with me and really helped me out as a model painter.
@@ArtisOpus yeah, my favourite thing to paint are monsters/dragons. I'm doing a 72mm scale griffin currently and am wondering what to do with the feathers.
Firstly, a nice big cutting mat is essential. Secondly, 5mm wide sponge sanding sticks are a game changer. Bonus tip: use a tamiya cement brush with very little liquid on it to melt little plastic shavings from scraping with an exacto. Great video Byron, keep it up!
True, just having a good reliable surface is huge! Perhaps because it didn't start out as our 'thing' (we help people paint) it's been more tricky for us, or our industry in the past.
@@ArtisOpus I think youtube is evolving, and people want to get value, even if it's the same thing for the n'th time. I help people create content and one thing is you don't need to be the absolute best, you just have to have your own unique experience and be able to deliver it. Ultimately it comes down to the 'why' of your channel. Is it to sell more brushes? is it to help people paint better? is it to help beginners enjoy the hobby? is it so you can leave your mark, and about legacy? You asked the question so I'm assuming you're hoping to test content and go beyond that initial scope. Sometimes it's better to just do what you want to do, share what you want to share. In this current context, I'd love to hear about and watch your prep workflow before you break out the paints. I guess one way to think of it is, a slight shift from 'we help people paint', to 'we enhance and help people's hobby experience, and we are best known for our brushes'. I can see Artis Opus hobby tools on the horizon. Perhaps if you're not ready for longform, shorts may be something you can try that content with. Start with a before and after shot of a gap. and maybe even a nicely painted mini... Easy techniques to fill gaps in plastic [part of mini, e.g. arm joints] / This method levelled up my mini building. etc Sorry went into work mode - love your stuff, whatever that may be, keep it up!
@@ArtisOpus extremely, at first! The angle they are sharpened at makes the edge a little vulnerable too, but even dulled, they are as sharp as a regular exacto, at least to me. Another great thing about them is that you can buy them _tiny._
Everything I recommend has been covered by another comment, but for a tangentially related topic- I recently started using a dremel wire brush to strip metal models. You ABSOLUTELY need some sort of mask and it will eat up plastic, but I have gotten pretty-soaked models cleaner than I ever could have imagined. Always happy to see more hobby basics videos.
One of my most indispensable hobby tools for assembly is a toothbrush or similar soft, stiff bristled brush. They are great for cleaning up after sanding/scraping and making sure there isnt any dust on a model before I prime them.
I think tack (not saying the brand) is a must. Helps when doing sub assemblies to get an idea of if it's worth flying yet. But could you do a vid on non plastic models, metal,resin etc. There's not much info out there regarding assembly on anything that isn't plastic. Oh and thanks for the vid!
I also use the Revell for assembly, but I use Tamiya Thin as a way to remove scrap and moldlines I missed. Just leave a very small amount of glue on the brush and they will melt away! And speaking of melting - if you use Vallejo Plastic Putty, that stuff is, in fact, plastic and thus you can use plastic glue on it. You can glue it, harden it and even mix it on the spot to make a mass akin to the infamous sprue glue.
I use Swan Morton blades( straight and curved ) and a scalpel and have never had the dragging on a sharp blade. Tamiya Extra thin is my go to glue. And sprue goo for filling. Agree with the clippers and sanding sponge though. Building and converting vids are sexy.
I like to use Vallejo plastic putty to fill large gaps when assembling minis. Once applied and dry it is easy to sand smooth. I find it works really well.
I've been using the back of the blade for scraping. The advantage is that it doesn't really change its sharpness, but it can still gouge stuff out accidentally if you apply too much pressure or manage to bind it.
The round blade convert I might look into using as a moldline remover and gentle scraping tool. Most of what's shown is useful. That's a good video, nice line cut on the sanding sponge.
I am a sucker for making things easier but being on a fixed budget, I appreciate the help and comments. I use dollar store reading glasses as an important help for detail ... The curved blade though ...
A small tip for the plastic glue: If it blocks, take out the needle, turn it around, put the needle back in, give it a shake and hold it as if you were about to use it. The glue in the container will re-melt the dried glue that is causing the blockage, and the needle will work again without needing to use a lighter or a poke. These application needles block pretty regularly, but using this method will usually unblock them within a few seconds.
Silicone soldering mat is fantastic for prep work! It protects the desk. Since it has high friction small parts don't roll around or of the desk. It is also a bit static so plastic dust stick to it, and thar washes of easy with water and som dish detergent. Also most of them have a bunch of wells/pockets to sort a lot of small parts while assembly. (Dont use for cutting)!
I also use Revell glue as you made and I find it perfect. Fun fact my actual one was one I bought back in the days when I was young and I tried to start the hobby, then dropped and all the stuff remains unused for decades. Then I started back in 2019 and found that little bottle of glue it's still working and I'm still using it 😅 Extremely resilient formula it seems. I also recommend, if you can afford the price, the Wowstick Mini Cordless Drill that you can use also with other compatible sanding accessories or sanding brushes with the right size.
I mostly use sprue glue to fill gaps. I sometimes use liquid green stuff, and the cleanup is much easier with that, but I find it often requires several layers as it seems to shrink on drying. For scraping, I actually just use an old fruit knife which fits nicely in my hand. The sanding sponges are great. Regarding the Revell glue: I recently rediscovered a pot (?) I had left in a box for about 15 years, and the needle hadn't clogged. I was somewhat surprised not to have to get out a lighter at all.
I have a set of Erem swiss electronic cutters that are perfectly flat on the backside and cut flush, gained them from a job years ago. I also have used Revell glue since a kid exclusively and really like the needle point but i recently picked up some tamiya extra thin and its possibly slightly better than revell if a little smellier.
Hobby Drill with varying drill bit sizes for drilling the bolter barrels! I use 1.5mm drill bits but you can drop to 1mm or 0.8mm for varying sizes of bolters and personal tastes. Hobby drills are also useful for magnetizing which is something I wish I had hopped on sooner in my hobby career!
I was using a round blade back in the 90s ... Still using it and even have some of the original spare blades! Worked with metal miniatures as well as with plastic. Also use a pair of tweezers for assembling fiddly bits...
I would love to see more videos covering model assembly. With the push fit Warhammer figures you can often be left with quite visible gaps and I'd love to see you cover some methods of the best ways in dealing with them. Thanks.
I used to simply cut away the pegs but I have since found a better method. Insert tip of a mold line remover into the socket and twist it couple of times to make the hole slightly wider and ensure better fit.
Nine times out of ten the answer is to snip off the connecting peg so they’re no longer push fit, and just glue them together like any regular model. Although I do tend to leave the pegs in place for Space Marine arms, those aren’t usually too tight and they really do help to guide you into connecting at just the right angle. And as a bonus they’re easy to pop off again after priming if you’re trying to paint aquilas that would otherwise be hidden behind bolters.
I usually snip of the pegs to about half their length, this works for me. This and using Tamiya's extra thin glue, which melts the plastic together, you hardly get any gaps.
I like using a #2 Xacto blade for removing mold lines. Its bigger than their #11 blade so it doesn't leave those washboard marks as easily. Getting a set of blades of various sizes and style is very useful in general especially if youre building terrain or dioramas!
As people are saying, Tamiya extra thin glue has changed my assembling game. I used to use glue in a cheap little plastic pallet from the dollar store and then apply it with a toothpick. But, ever since seeing that tiny ass applicator on Tamiya I have wondered where it has been all my life. I love these videos on assembling because, like you, I also dislike assembling. Sometimes it can be fun (mainly with Crisis Protocol minis), but for the most part I find it tedious. Gap filling for noobs would be a great one, methinks, as well as higher skilled ways. Loved the video, can't wait for more! :D
As others have said Tamiya extra thin is amazing and the brush applicator can be pulled a bit to extend it when the bottle gets nearly empty. Although you'll want 2 and use the second as sprue-goo which is great for gap filling.
Most common tool I use, is sprugoo; then followed up with overgluing. Then i clean the joint exactly as you described in your video. Blade then sanding sponges. I start at 1000 and depending on if it's part of an army or a one-off display. I'll work my way down to 3000 or lower.
Nail buffers/files are very good and cheap alternatives to sanding sponges. They're basically the same thing and come in appropriate grits, and are often double sided with different grits on each side. You can also cut them down easily into strips. I did order some X10 blades.
I would like to see more on how to deal with broken or damaged models during assembly. Whether that's with plastic glue, super glue, green stuff, pinning or any other ways or combinations.
I think the most overlooked hobby essential is the humble #2 pencil. Not only great for weathering, but the graphite can be used to lubricate moving parts on a model. Just run it around te inside of a turret ring and see how much easier it rotates (especially useful on smaller scale models).
I always use the 11 blade but will give the 10 a try. I have a pair of precision snips that I love. They are smaller than normal ones and can get into smaller spaces.
I think something that is often overlooked is having two consistencies of plastic glue. The medium/thick glue by Revell or Testors is my go-to for general assembly. However, Mr. Hobby or Tamiya extra thin glues can be pinwashed around pieces that are fiddly to glue otherwise. You simply hold the bit in place and literally dab the extra thin glue into the join area and the high surface tension of the plastic will help wick the glue around the join. Thin plastic glue dries quickly as well, so you spend less time doing this than you would using the thicker glue and holding a problematic bit in place. Additionally, you can use the thin glue as a clamp for the thicker glue in the same manner.
The Dspaie nippers are awesome and cheap compared to god hands. God hands are sharper but you cant go wrong with the Dspaie 3.0 nippers. Sprue goo is surprisingly helpful with glueing and gap filling. A lot of people use tamiya cement to make it but you can use their paint thinner as well. A sanding board is super helpful if you’re trying to keep a surface flat or keep an angle. The sanding sponge can round corners so choose based on the look you’re going for.
Tamiya glue is great, and when it starts to run low you can turn it into the magical sprue glue. There's also the back of the blade for removing lines, and if you're not massively confident with a blade and worried about cutting yourself, the GW one is pricey but the handle makes it feel a lot safer to use. (Also when having younger people help with building models, the mould line remover from GW also works a treat and you're not giving a kid a knife)
Tamiya extra thin glue has become my top essential tool, that and a good set of clippers I think make the biggest difference to getting a model in the best shape for painting.
I think looking at ways to expand to the advanced section would be things like gap filling and how to potentially customise some minis? Theres a LOT on the market around putty etc and green stuff but knowing what and how to use this during the building stage is tricky. I've loved how you've expanded on this somewhat with texture paints on the metal tutorial but think this is an area lacking on most painting channels that could fit really well, especially when considering how the texture effects things like dry brushing maybe that you do so well. Looking forward to seeing whats next regardless! Have a great day!
I can second (or... hundredth, because lots have agreed already) the nice sprue nippers. General cutters leave massive gouges because they squeeze the sprue rather than cut. I also just went with the Dspaie (or however it's spelled) and it was fantastic. Also, there's one other VERY important thing that doesn't help at all... until it does. Plain white carpet. I'm stuck with a speckled carpet. I can't count the hours lost to looking for that tiny grenade or head that I just dropped. Big white sheet as a drop cloth also works! Also, I'm up for more assembly stuff. Specifically green stuff/milliput work for the non-sculpters, and any sprue goo tips.
My local GW insists on people assembling the model of the month instore, and every time I bemoan the fact that they use a grey carpet. I have wood-effect vinyl flooring, which makes it a little harder to lose things - though if model assembly had been foremost on my mind when I installed it I may have gone for something other than dark brown.
I bought a 8x10 steel (so it will be magnetic) metal sheet from the hardware store to sit on my paint desk. I picked up some Magnetic Bendable Alligator Clip Sticks that I use on it. The clips are bendy and are great for sub assembly painting and for construction (since you can make sure the part(s) are oriented just the way you want them. And when I put them on the steel sheet they stay where I put them. I also put my paint handles (magnetted Redgrass) on the sheet so they don't fall over when I set them down. Has saved me frequently heartbreak from falling models and broken parts. Some duct tape around the sheet edges keeps the sharp edges from cutting fingers or scratching my desk.
holding the sanding sponge taut between the two fingers like you were is VERY reminiscent of how a pipe polisher works, ive done handrail fabrication and polishing before and its literally the biggest crossover ive ever seen come to a hobby application. x11 for life btw ;)
Very fine rounded file - flat on one side, semi circle on the other - I’ve used it on thousands of models as it’s so versatile, letting you do concave surfaces with ease. Finish off if necessary with your 2500 soft grit paper.
My go to kit for on the go, Steel ruler, gel super glue, Olaf ratchet knife, xacto knife, sand paper, sanding sponge, gsw green putty and uv resin and my little torch for gap filling, my hardware store buy hand drill and little drill bits with cut up paper clips for pinning
2 items I use a lot. Vallejo plastic putty, it's great for quickly filling a gap when putting metal or resin models together, like a gap where an arm does not fully fit. You squeeze it in and then just run your finger over it to smooth, dries fast and way easier than sprue goo or grenstuff. And the tamiya 2mm flat chisel, super fine and great for trimming off tiny details, like excess skulls or chest eagles. Small so less risk of scraping or scratching, and easy to control.
I frequently use wood glue as a gap filler. It is easy to handle and non toxic, dries clear like Elmers (white) glue. The nice thing is that wood glue doesnt shrink near as much as a normal white glue. You can use a fingers to smooth it and shape it as you like when wet and then the excess scrapes or sands easily and cleanly when cured.
I keep three x-acto knives at my paint station, one #10, one #11, and almost as importantly the ever overlooked #12 which is really nice for scraping the smallest bits and sticky out bits you cant get at with the nippers. In addition to my sponge files I also keep a popsicle stick with two different grits of sandpaper glued to either side then cut them into thin strips lengthwise. The popsicle stick files are good when you need a little extra pressure, and I usually keep much rougher grits on them (400 ish) for again when that extra oomf is needed.
Blue tack is my recommendation, holds minis on bases or painting handles, try out posing the minis, act as a paint mask, pin brushes to the wall so they can dry bristles down etc
1. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Arguably the biggest QoL improvement in my model making. Precise application thanks to the brush, and when the bottle's halfway done, buy a new one and turn the half-full one into sprue goo for gap filling by mixing in chopped up sprues till it gets, well, gooey! 2. Tamiya Sanding Sponge 1000 grit. I'd honestly argue you don't really need a higher grit; I used to use very high grit polishing papers and now mostly stick to the 1000 Tamiya sponge. Also you can use the back of it to polish the surface of your mini once you're done sanding. 3. A toothbrush. Get a cheap toothbrush (ideally unused but I won't judge) with soft bristles and you now have the ultimate tool for brushing off any plastic dust and dry glue from your mini. Be gentle! 4. Needle files. Very high grit ones are hard to get/expensive but so long as you're careful these things can be a revelation for getting parts to fit or scraping a mold line from somewhere even a hobby knife can't get to (like the little holes in Nighthaunt shrouds). Try to get a variety of shapes or a set, as each have different uses.
I use tamiya extra thin for so many applications than just bonding parts. Varying consistencies of sprue-goo for different tasks. Using the applicator to smooth mould lines in places it's impossible to reach with a blade or sanding stick. I've sanded areas where a join has left slight gaps (like the front edge of the hull on the repulsor, bloody thing!) and used the leftover filing dust that has settled in the gap to fill in. I often find myself using it to fix small mistakes such as nicking an unintended surface with a blade tip or the inevitable fingerprint mark when some glue has gotten loose. Truly a must have hobby product for everyone's arsenal, especially since you can refill it with tamiya airbrush cleaner as its the same stuff!
It's been mentioned several times for different reasons but Tamiya extra thin is a must have for high level assembly. It's perfect after sanding to ensure a smooth finish as it literally melts the plastic together, the brush makes application easy and once you've used half the bottle you get to make sprue goo
Definitely want to echo what many folks have said, Tamiya Extra Thin. I find the brush applicator more precise and using a 2nd pot to make sprue goo is definitely a plus.
Great video. Would love to see your take on gap filling, which is truly, for me, the absolute most hated task to perform. I'm seldom satisfied with the outcome. The newer GW minis usually hide the seam lines well, but sometimes not well at all. The push-fits are especially annoying to assemble so that the seams blend in the way I want. I cut down the posts and use thicker plastic cement, but I'm always game for seeing someone else's take.
Appreciate the attention to curved blades! I find it's easier for me to use a curved one to even get normal mold lines, I can control the point of contact more easily and avoid accidentally scraping the wrong place. I'm also a clumsy person, so consider trying this way
Totally agree on Godhands being a critical piece of kit, but Tamiya extra thin plastic glue with brush applicator is the only glue. Cork board for building up bases, green stuff on hand for both gaps and customization. 1mm brass rods for pinning beefy bits. I’ve also been an x10 guy for a couple of years. NOW, pretty pretty please help me upgrade m dry brushes (aka wife’s old make up brushes) and texture pallet! 😂
HAA, I think it might be time for you to try some 'forever brushes' 😅. store.artis-opus.com/ We ship worldwide, let us know if you need any specific advice in another comment, replies get lost. Can't disagree with your list at the top, I guess we need a second stage of tools, all of these are at my desk for sure
Great video and I think you got the main things. Some additional ideas for me would be the following. Drill with some good quality bits is really nice addition, better quality bits can make such a difference. Hobby saw with a nice high number of teeth per inch makes such a difference for cutting if you don't mind the loss of material. Steel ruler if you are working with plasticard or kitbashing (preferably with scored rather than printed markings). Also clamps (including the humble peg) and I do find myself reaching for a pair of needle nose locking pliers regularly which i include in this area. Finally a good strong spudger and white tac type putty are also really useful. Oh and definitely move building and kitbashing vids.
I'm keen on a worn out sanding stick or two because I find them a bit less fiddly and more compatible with my dodgy ligaments than a sponge strip but I'll give it a bit of practice. Gotta get me a rounded scrapey though 👍
I know it sounds weird but sewing needles. They're great for really fiddly bits and if you get the angle right you can use them for scrapping similar to a knife. Just don't slip, i know from experience how that ends 😮
Another superb video Byron , I tend to use swan Morton scalpel with both curved and straight blades, but the one thing I’ve always used is o.5 mm copper wire and 0.5 mm drill bit to connect models together when I am kit bashing or converting a figure , the copper wire is strong but flexible so you can bend it to the right angle you need …oh and white Millie put … 😊
tamiya airbrush cleaner (its the same as their thin poly cement but cheaper and in much greater quantity) , Sanding sticks, so helpful for fine resin models. Love my wow stick, excellent for pinning and drilling bolter barrels and oddly enough, a silicone fidget popper, makes an awesome pallet for my paint and so easy to clean!
I wouldn't be without my swan Morton scalpels. Have one handle that I've had for about 40 years 😂 Wouldn't be without some hobby clamps/clips as well. Though would appreciate a video about ways to use them effectively
I wouldn't use revel contacta over Tamiya extra thin Swan Morton scalpels are far better Exacta style knife handles, if only because they don't roll off the bench, curved blades are really good for scraping mould lines away Hard sanding sticks are better than sponges for curved surfaces because when used correctly, they don't put unwanted "flats" on the surface. Lastly Black flexible superglue (flexi 5k by VMS is what i use) is brilliant at filling seams and gaps
I'm with you on the straight aluminum handles for Xacto knives. I have one with a rubber grip and it's always slipping off. A snap knife can be good if you need a longer thicker blade sometimes like for foam as well.
My best tool is... Patience! Holding glued pieces together even 10 seconds longer than you would normally makes a huge difference. Reminded of your Deathwing Terminator video on how to immediately improve painting with basic techniques - just take more time! Would love to see more assembly videos, especially using Green Stuff + Milliput (the two mixed is even better!) and conversions.
I like the x-18 blade it’s almost like a flexible chisel for using to remove minis from bases etc, I also like a tooth water flossed when stripping minis after I soak and scrub with a brush give it a blast over an old washing up bowl with a cheap or old waterpik and it gets all the material out of the hard to reach areas!
I love my hobby drill for pinning models, which is something I never used to do, also for drill gun barrels. I think more videos on assembly would be great. Things like how to use green stuff or gap filler. When is it best to paint a fully assembled model, in parts or even before assembly
I found a UV cured car body filler that i use for gap filling. It is a putty and really cheap. It is super fine and when you have filled the gap to your liking you can clean off the excess and hit it with a uv light and its done.
Use all the tools you mention, love my godhand, its been maybe the best semi expencive tool iv gotten besides an airbrush:) Having a spool of steel wire and a drill for pinning and sub assemblies is really nice! Keep up the good work on the video tips😊
Got your own suggestions for tools or a follow-up video? Let us know below!
All the tools used in this video: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/element-essentials/egaps/artis-opus-bundles/byron-recommends
store.artis-opus.com/ - Our full range of brushes
All the above ship worldwide!
I used to use the same plastic glue as you did, but then was able to change to Tamiya extra thin and have never looked back, to me the brush applicator is just so much cleaner. Also you can buy two bottles and turn one into sprue goo, which is another life safer for filling in smaller gaps on models (I often use the sprue goo instead of glue for gappy connections where it needs to be smooth, such as ones on cloaks or shoulderpads).
Additionally, for gun based armies, I would say a hobby drill is also essential, I can't live with my barrels undrilled!
How do you make and use sprue glu? And the brush applicator is so nice!
@@FlinginFu throw in the pieces of the used sprue and wait until the acetone mix in the cement glue dissolves plastic - after throwing in a few pieces you'll get your own sprue goo
Agreed, a pin vice & an assortment of tiny drill bits is essential - both for drilling gun barrels, and making holes for pinning models to bases or adding pins to poory-supported joins
Me too! I totally agree!
Tamiya just changed their formulation to a new faster-drying one and I'm not a fan of the new one - it sets absurdly quickly for the sort of modelling we do, and seems designed for Airfix-style kits which you glue by holding the pieces together and tracing glue around the edges. It also seems to adhere badly to standard GW bases.
I am a very casual hobbyist, with no real dedicated space for building, painting or storing my gaming models and tools. With this in mind I use a lot of my tools for things they aren't designed for like using the back of my knife for removing mould lines, and paint pots for sub-assembly holders etc.
But there are 2 things specifically i use all the time - one is Blu-Tac for test fitting and trying out poses for arms/legs when converting or kitbashing. The second is baking powder, this and superglue makes big gaps easy to fill and flimsy connections usually stronger than the normal plastic joints. Also it cures almost instantly and I can sand, cut and re-sculpt it just as easy as plastic.
I 100% agree you should make more videos like this and maybe even break apart the building side and the painting side into separate videos. Personally I'd like more converting and kitbashing videos as this is pretty much all i do.
Would love videos on using greenstuff too - always helpful!
Old-school model railroader here, recently exposed to mini painting. I consider a good set of dental tools essential. Ask your dentist for any used/broken dental tools. There are scrapers, gougers, picks, etc. in many shapes that I use all the time for scoring lines, applying a pin-point of glue, pricking a starting hole for drilling, and SO much more. My dentist had a large box full and let me pick out a dozen. For FREE (well, the cost of a dental visit...)
And as for a different way to use tools I don't hear much anymore, it has to be using the BACK edge of an Xacto to scrape seam lines. It is very aggressive and can really hog away the material, but if that's what you're looking for, it'll do it. Then the sharp edge can be used gently to clean up the work and the sanding stick/sponge for finishing.
Great tip on the round blade...I need to give that a try. Fingers crossed for the give-away. I've coveted a nice set of dry-brushes for a long time now...
I was going to mention the dental tools. My wife used to work in the dental field and gave me a bunch of handy tools.
Mine supplied me with a full set of root canal files (sterilised after my root canal work)
They're brilliant as micro twist drills for plastic and balsa.
Blue handle Godhand clippers, best $55 you’ll spend on hobby tools. Do NOT, without thinking, cut a paperclip with them to use as a pin because they will break. Then they actually cost $110.
Love this, so true!
This. I also suggest making warning labels to stick on your sprue cutters to help stop you doing that without thinking. Especially if you're of the ADHD persuasion.
I abused a Xuron cutter like this but was able to file it back to a sharp, straight edge so they're not gone forever, just in need of repair. The problem (soft dent-able metal) is the solution (soft, file-able metal!)
I find the tamiya cutters to be on par and way cheaper.
Yeah I have really enjoyed the godhand clippers once I got them.
Glad to see another X10 user! That rounded blade can be used for 99% of model prep!
I didn't realise when I put this flag up I would find so many brothers in arms 😅😅 Hey buddy!
Life changing hobby hack I discovered, I also noticed the more blunt blades scrape better, however no need to keep a blunt blade in your knife, just flip the knife over and use the spine of the blade, just as good if not better than a mould line remover tool and it's a sharp knife in one tool !
Couple tips - Tamiya glue, then refill your applicator bottles. It's very liquid if you get the thin glue, but totally worth it.
for scraping off lines, the back of a blade is sometimes better f it's only a light touch needed. I like sanding sticks too but find that I'm more familiar and comfortable with knives - just used them more through my life.
Getting an inexpensive set of clippers is also a good idea. Even nail clippers, to avoid messing your fine cutters. Godhand is of course there, but Knipex are also excellent. Unfortunately in the same price range - mine don't get used for anything except fine work.
I LOVE tip #1! Such a good idea. Thanks for all of them, great points
I'm a relative newbie, started only a few months ago, think my most essential tool is a pair of TWEEZERS! I find small models with many parts can be quite fiddly; a pair of precision tweezers are great for helping reach/assemble small bits/areas, I have a straight pair and an angled pair, both get used... a lot!
(also, always keep some toothpicks and cotton buds handy too, great for precision application of glue and mopping up overspill!)
Especially non-magnetic tweezers.
Two things I use all the time when building are a small desktop vacuum. Try using one for a week after cleaning a bunch of parts and you will be surprised how much it picks up. The other item is a knife proof finger guard, I put one over my thumb and it lets me have a lot more confidence to use a knife without slicing myself!
Omg what a legend. I’m still looking for supplies that would help me in this new hobby so this video is perfect.
We definitely need more videos like this. Please do create a few more.
Tamiya extra thin plastic glue changed assembly for me! Also sanding twigs are fantastic! Great video thanks
Blu tack. Absolutely invaluable.
Wowstick. Hands down the best tool I spent money on. Makes drilling barrels so much easier. Also pinning. Once you get to the point where you're making custom bases and painting them before attaching the mini, you will appreciate a tool that can drill through most of materials fast and easy while maintaining an angle. And the satisfying whirl sound as it bites into resin. Best purchase ever :)
I would love to see more D&D focused models and painting techniques.
I love your videos. Your painting techniques have really clicked with me and really helped me out as a model painter.
Thanks so much buddy, what style of minis? Dragons? I never need mych encouragement for monsters:).
That's always amazing to hear, our pleasure
@@ArtisOpus yeah, my favourite thing to paint are monsters/dragons.
I'm doing a 72mm scale griffin currently and am wondering what to do with the feathers.
Firstly, a nice big cutting mat is essential. Secondly, 5mm wide sponge sanding sticks are a game changer. Bonus tip: use a tamiya cement brush with very little liquid on it to melt little plastic shavings from scraping with an exacto. Great video Byron, keep it up!
Sprue goo!!!! Absolute game-changer!
Sprue goo, is a must for me! As well as rubber tipped sculpting tools.
Agreed! Do you think people know about this stuff less than they used to though (sculpting)
Love to see assembly and model prep videos, there are entire channels based on assembly - dioramas.
One piece of kit I use is a cutting mat.
True, just having a good reliable surface is huge!
Perhaps because it didn't start out as our 'thing' (we help people paint) it's been more tricky for us, or our industry in the past.
@@ArtisOpus I think youtube is evolving, and people want to get value, even if it's the same thing for the n'th time. I help people create content and one thing is you don't need to be the absolute best, you just have to have your own unique experience and be able to deliver it.
Ultimately it comes down to the 'why' of your channel. Is it to sell more brushes? is it to help people paint better? is it to help beginners enjoy the hobby? is it so you can leave your mark, and about legacy?
You asked the question so I'm assuming you're hoping to test content and go beyond that initial scope. Sometimes it's better to just do what you want to do, share what you want to share. In this current context, I'd love to hear about and watch your prep workflow before you break out the paints. I guess one way to think of it is, a slight shift from 'we help people paint', to 'we enhance and help people's hobby experience, and we are best known for our brushes'. I can see Artis Opus hobby tools on the horizon.
Perhaps if you're not ready for longform, shorts may be something you can try that content with. Start with a before and after shot of a gap. and maybe even a nicely painted mini... Easy techniques to fill gaps in plastic [part of mini, e.g. arm joints] / This method levelled up my mini building. etc
Sorry went into work mode - love your stuff, whatever that may be, keep it up!
I use the cheap “one use” surgical scalpels of different sizes. Love those!
Suuuper sharp I guess?
@@ArtisOpus extremely, at first! The angle they are sharpened at makes the edge a little vulnerable too, but even dulled, they are as sharp as a regular exacto, at least to me.
Another great thing about them is that you can buy them _tiny._
You're the first UA-camr that I've seen use the rounded blade X10. I have used the rounded blade for years almost exclusively. Great video as always
There's so many more of us in the club than I thought :D
Everything I recommend has been covered by another comment, but for a tangentially related topic- I recently started using a dremel wire brush to strip metal models. You ABSOLUTELY need some sort of mask and it will eat up plastic, but I have gotten pretty-soaked models cleaner than I ever could have imagined.
Always happy to see more hobby basics videos.
One of my most indispensable hobby tools for assembly is a toothbrush or similar soft, stiff bristled brush. They are great for cleaning up after sanding/scraping and making sure there isnt any dust on a model before I prime them.
This is fantastic, I had a specific stiff nylon thicker bristled brush for this which I lost!
@@ArtisOpus Oh no! I hate losing great tools!
Shout out to the rounded knife blade! It came in my cheap xacto box and I didn't even know it existed beforehand but now I can't hobby without it
Our cult has more members than I expected! 😅🙏
I think tack (not saying the brand) is a must. Helps when doing sub assemblies to get an idea of if it's worth flying yet.
But could you do a vid on non plastic models, metal,resin etc. There's not much info out there regarding assembly on anything that isn't plastic. Oh and thanks for the vid!
Good points and suggestions as ever bud, I couldn't live without tack!
Sorry, not sure why I typed "flying" that should have said gluing
As I got older, the thing I've found I need extra is a magnifying lamp. I'd love to see an in-depth video about using sprue goo properly, too
I also use the Revell for assembly, but I use Tamiya Thin as a way to remove scrap and moldlines I missed. Just leave a very small amount of glue on the brush and they will melt away!
And speaking of melting - if you use Vallejo Plastic Putty, that stuff is, in fact, plastic and thus you can use plastic glue on it. You can glue it, harden it and even mix it on the spot to make a mass akin to the infamous sprue glue.
I use Swan Morton blades( straight and curved ) and a scalpel and have never had the dragging on a sharp blade. Tamiya Extra thin is my go to glue. And sprue goo for filling. Agree with the clippers and sanding sponge though. Building and converting vids are sexy.
I like to use Vallejo plastic putty to fill large gaps when assembling minis. Once applied and dry it is easy to sand smooth. I find it works really well.
would like to see more done with the sprugoo what all it can be used for....thank you since watching you...luv to dry brush EVERYTHING✌️👍🧡‼️
Amazing! Fav size Series D?
I've been using the back of the blade for scraping. The advantage is that it doesn't really change its sharpness, but it can still gouge stuff out accidentally if you apply too much pressure or manage to bind it.
The round blade convert I might look into using as a moldline remover and gentle scraping tool. Most of what's shown is useful.
That's a good video, nice line cut on the sanding sponge.
I am a sucker for making things easier but being on a fixed budget, I appreciate the help and comments. I use dollar store reading glasses as an important help for detail ... The curved blade though ...
A small tip for the plastic glue: If it blocks, take out the needle, turn it around, put the needle back in, give it a shake and hold it as if you were about to use it. The glue in the container will re-melt the dried glue that is causing the blockage, and the needle will work again without needing to use a lighter or a poke. These application needles block pretty regularly, but using this method will usually unblock them within a few seconds.
Silicone soldering mat is fantastic for prep work! It protects the desk. Since it has high friction small parts don't roll around or of the desk. It is also a bit static so plastic dust stick to it, and thar washes of easy with water and som dish detergent. Also most of them have a bunch of wells/pockets to sort a lot of small parts while assembly. (Dont use for cutting)!
Not thought of this before, smart! 🙏
Nice, great idea 💡
And you can ones with edge ridges and little part indentation grids that I find helpful for small parts during assembly.
Additionally, sprue goo / green stuff / milliput don’t stick to silicone, so it’s a handy surface when sculpting
You're very thorough, and very easy to listen to. Assembly isn't as interesting as painting, but this was still very worthwhile. 🙂
I also use Revell glue as you made and I find it perfect. Fun fact my actual one was one I bought back in the days when I was young and I tried to start the hobby, then dropped and all the stuff remains unused for decades. Then I started back in 2019 and found that little bottle of glue it's still working and I'm still using it 😅 Extremely resilient formula it seems. I also recommend, if you can afford the price, the Wowstick Mini Cordless Drill that you can use also with other compatible sanding accessories or sanding brushes with the right size.
I mostly use sprue glue to fill gaps. I sometimes use liquid green stuff, and the cleanup is much easier with that, but I find it often requires several layers as it seems to shrink on drying.
For scraping, I actually just use an old fruit knife which fits nicely in my hand. The sanding sponges are great.
Regarding the Revell glue: I recently rediscovered a pot (?) I had left in a box for about 15 years, and the needle hadn't clogged. I was somewhat surprised not to have to get out a lighter at all.
I have a set of Erem swiss electronic cutters that are perfectly flat on the backside and cut flush, gained them from a job years ago. I also have used Revell glue since a kid exclusively and really like the needle point but i recently picked up some tamiya extra thin and its possibly slightly better than revell if a little smellier.
Hobby Drill with varying drill bit sizes for drilling the bolter barrels! I use 1.5mm drill bits but you can drop to 1mm or 0.8mm for varying sizes of bolters and personal tastes. Hobby drills are also useful for magnetizing which is something I wish I had hopped on sooner in my hobby career!
I use all the mentioned items. I sometimes stick a toothpick into the foam sandpaper to stiffen it up a lil bit. Works a treat
I was using a round blade back in the 90s ... Still using it and even have some of the original spare blades! Worked with metal miniatures as well as with plastic. Also use a pair of tweezers for assembling fiddly bits...
Tamiya extra thin glue is my go-to. The x11 blade idea was new, and I’ll give that a go!
Enjoy!
I would love to see more videos covering model assembly. With the push fit Warhammer figures you can often be left with quite visible gaps and I'd love to see you cover some methods of the best ways in dealing with them. Thanks.
I think this is a very intelligent approach, they are a bit of an irreversible trap aren't they
I used to simply cut away the pegs but I have since found a better method. Insert tip of a mold line remover into the socket and twist it couple of times to make the hole slightly wider and ensure better fit.
Nine times out of ten the answer is to snip off the connecting peg so they’re no longer push fit, and just glue them together like any regular model. Although I do tend to leave the pegs in place for Space Marine arms, those aren’t usually too tight and they really do help to guide you into connecting at just the right angle. And as a bonus they’re easy to pop off again after priming if you’re trying to paint aquilas that would otherwise be hidden behind bolters.
I usually snip of the pegs to about half their length, this works for me.
This and using Tamiya's extra thin glue, which melts the plastic together, you hardly get any gaps.
I like using a #2 Xacto blade for removing mold lines. Its bigger than their #11 blade so it doesn't leave those washboard marks as easily. Getting a set of blades of various sizes and style is very useful in general especially if youre building terrain or dioramas!
As people are saying, Tamiya extra thin glue has changed my assembling game. I used to use glue in a cheap little plastic pallet from the dollar store and then apply it with a toothpick. But, ever since seeing that tiny ass applicator on Tamiya I have wondered where it has been all my life. I love these videos on assembling because, like you, I also dislike assembling. Sometimes it can be fun (mainly with Crisis Protocol minis), but for the most part I find it tedious. Gap filling for noobs would be a great one, methinks, as well as higher skilled ways. Loved the video, can't wait for more! :D
As others have said Tamiya extra thin is amazing and the brush applicator can be pulled a bit to extend it when the bottle gets nearly empty. Although you'll want 2 and use the second as sprue-goo which is great for gap filling.
Most common tool I use, is sprugoo; then followed up with overgluing. Then i clean the joint exactly as you described in your video. Blade then sanding sponges.
I start at 1000 and depending on if it's part of an army or a one-off display. I'll work my way down to 3000 or lower.
I would love tips on assembling. Struggle with gap filing etc. Thanks
Nail buffers/files are very good and cheap alternatives to sanding sponges. They're basically the same thing and come in appropriate grits, and are often double sided with different grits on each side. You can also cut them down easily into strips. I did order some X10 blades.
Blue tac may be my most used hobby tool/product. Used in most aspects of the whole pack to painted process 🔥
I would like to see more on how to deal with broken or damaged models during assembly. Whether that's with plastic glue, super glue, green stuff, pinning or any other ways or combinations.
I think the most overlooked hobby essential is the humble #2 pencil. Not only great for weathering, but the graphite can be used to lubricate moving parts on a model. Just run it around te inside of a turret ring and see how much easier it rotates (especially useful on smaller scale models).
I always use the 11 blade but will give the 10 a try. I have a pair of precision snips that I love. They are smaller than normal ones and can get into smaller spaces.
I think something that is often overlooked is having two consistencies of plastic glue. The medium/thick glue by Revell or Testors is my go-to for general assembly. However, Mr. Hobby or Tamiya extra thin glues can be pinwashed around pieces that are fiddly to glue otherwise. You simply hold the bit in place and literally dab the extra thin glue into the join area and the high surface tension of the plastic will help wick the glue around the join. Thin plastic glue dries quickly as well, so you spend less time doing this than you would using the thicker glue and holding a problematic bit in place. Additionally, you can use the thin glue as a clamp for the thicker glue in the same manner.
I'd love to hear you talk about scuplting in general. Not necessarily just green stuff!
Great video, I also use an old pair of clippers for metal and chunky forge world sprues so I don’t ruin my nice ones
Good.point... you only need to learn that lesson once 😅😬
The Dspaie nippers are awesome and cheap compared to god hands. God hands are sharper but you cant go wrong with the Dspaie 3.0 nippers.
Sprue goo is surprisingly helpful with glueing and gap filling. A lot of people use tamiya cement to make it but you can use their paint thinner as well.
A sanding board is super helpful if you’re trying to keep a surface flat or keep an angle. The sanding sponge can round corners so choose based on the look you’re going for.
Fantastic tips, can't disagree with any!
Tamiya glue is great, and when it starts to run low you can turn it into the magical sprue glue. There's also the back of the blade for removing lines, and if you're not massively confident with a blade and worried about cutting yourself, the GW one is pricey but the handle makes it feel a lot safer to use. (Also when having younger people help with building models, the mould line remover from GW also works a treat and you're not giving a kid a knife)
Tamiya extra thin glue has become my top essential tool, that and a good set of clippers I think make the biggest difference to getting a model in the best shape for painting.
I think looking at ways to expand to the advanced section would be things like gap filling and how to potentially customise some minis? Theres a LOT on the market around putty etc and green stuff but knowing what and how to use this during the building stage is tricky. I've loved how you've expanded on this somewhat with texture paints on the metal tutorial but think this is an area lacking on most painting channels that could fit really well, especially when considering how the texture effects things like dry brushing maybe that you do so well. Looking forward to seeing whats next regardless! Have a great day!
I had a round bladed scalpel years ago and it was great. Never seen one since, and kind of forgot about it. I'll now be getting one again.
I can second (or... hundredth, because lots have agreed already) the nice sprue nippers. General cutters leave massive gouges because they squeeze the sprue rather than cut. I also just went with the Dspaie (or however it's spelled) and it was fantastic.
Also, there's one other VERY important thing that doesn't help at all... until it does. Plain white carpet. I'm stuck with a speckled carpet. I can't count the hours lost to looking for that tiny grenade or head that I just dropped. Big white sheet as a drop cloth also works!
Also, I'm up for more assembly stuff. Specifically green stuff/milliput work for the non-sculpters, and any sprue goo tips.
My local GW insists on people assembling the model of the month instore, and every time I bemoan the fact that they use a grey carpet.
I have wood-effect vinyl flooring, which makes it a little harder to lose things - though if model assembly had been foremost on my mind when I installed it I may have gone for something other than dark brown.
I like the big grippy handles on my knives
:) each to their own!
I use the backside of the X11 for mold lines. I like all the hobby stuff. Gap filler would be a cool tutorial.
I bought a 8x10 steel (so it will be magnetic) metal sheet from the hardware store to sit on my paint desk.
I picked up some Magnetic Bendable Alligator Clip Sticks that I use on it. The clips are bendy and are great for sub assembly painting and for construction (since you can make sure the part(s) are oriented just the way you want them. And when I put them on the steel sheet they stay where I put them.
I also put my paint handles (magnetted Redgrass) on the sheet so they don't fall over when I set them down. Has saved me frequently heartbreak from falling models and broken parts.
Some duct tape around the sheet edges keeps the sharp edges from cutting fingers or scratching my desk.
holding the sanding sponge taut between the two fingers like you were is VERY reminiscent of how a pipe polisher works, ive done handrail fabrication and polishing before and its literally the biggest crossover ive ever seen come to a hobby application. x11 for life btw ;)
Very fine rounded file - flat on one side, semi circle on the other - I’ve used it on thousands of models as it’s so versatile, letting you do concave surfaces with ease. Finish off if necessary with your 2500 soft grit paper.
I lost my one of these, the GW ones were actually great!
My go to kit for on the go,
Steel ruler, gel super glue, Olaf ratchet knife, xacto knife, sand paper, sanding sponge, gsw green putty and uv resin and my little torch for gap filling, my hardware store buy hand drill and little drill bits with cut up paper clips for pinning
2 items I use a lot. Vallejo plastic putty, it's great for quickly filling a gap when putting metal or resin models together, like a gap where an arm does not fully fit. You squeeze it in and then just run your finger over it to smooth, dries fast and way easier than sprue goo or grenstuff. And the tamiya 2mm flat chisel, super fine and great for trimming off tiny details, like excess skulls or chest eagles. Small so less risk of scraping or scratching, and easy to control.
Plastic putty shrinks, I thought?
@@Vanye111 hasn't for me.
I frequently use wood glue as a gap filler. It is easy to handle and non toxic, dries clear like Elmers (white) glue. The nice thing is that wood glue doesnt shrink near as much as a normal white glue. You can use a fingers to smooth it and shape it as you like when wet and then the excess scrapes or sands easily and cleanly when cured.
Didnt know about the sanding sponge so this was helpful, White tac (Not Blue) is essential
I keep three x-acto knives at my paint station, one #10, one #11, and almost as importantly the ever overlooked #12 which is really nice for scraping the smallest bits and sticky out bits you cant get at with the nippers. In addition to my sponge files I also keep a popsicle stick with two different grits of sandpaper glued to either side then cut them into thin strips lengthwise. The popsicle stick files are good when you need a little extra pressure, and I usually keep much rougher grits on them (400 ish) for again when that extra oomf is needed.
Blue tack is my recommendation, holds minis on bases or painting handles, try out posing the minis, act as a paint mask, pin brushes to the wall so they can dry bristles down etc
1. Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Arguably the biggest QoL improvement in my model making. Precise application thanks to the brush, and when the bottle's halfway done, buy a new one and turn the half-full one into sprue goo for gap filling by mixing in chopped up sprues till it gets, well, gooey!
2. Tamiya Sanding Sponge 1000 grit. I'd honestly argue you don't really need a higher grit; I used to use very high grit polishing papers and now mostly stick to the 1000 Tamiya sponge. Also you can use the back of it to polish the surface of your mini once you're done sanding.
3. A toothbrush. Get a cheap toothbrush (ideally unused but I won't judge) with soft bristles and you now have the ultimate tool for brushing off any plastic dust and dry glue from your mini. Be gentle!
4. Needle files. Very high grit ones are hard to get/expensive but so long as you're careful these things can be a revelation for getting parts to fit or scraping a mold line from somewhere even a hobby knife can't get to (like the little holes in Nighthaunt shrouds). Try to get a variety of shapes or a set, as each have different uses.
I use tamiya extra thin for so many applications than just bonding parts.
Varying consistencies of sprue-goo for different tasks.
Using the applicator to smooth mould lines in places it's impossible to reach with a blade or sanding stick. I've sanded areas where a join has left slight gaps (like the front edge of the hull on the repulsor, bloody thing!) and used the leftover filing dust that has settled in the gap to fill in.
I often find myself using it to fix small mistakes such as nicking an unintended surface with a blade tip or the inevitable fingerprint mark when some glue has gotten loose.
Truly a must have hobby product for everyone's arsenal, especially since you can refill it with tamiya airbrush cleaner as its the same stuff!
It's been mentioned several times for different reasons but Tamiya extra thin is a must have for high level assembly. It's perfect after sanding to ensure a smooth finish as it literally melts the plastic together, the brush makes application easy and once you've used half the bottle you get to make sprue goo
Definitely want to echo what many folks have said, Tamiya Extra Thin. I find the brush applicator more precise and using a 2nd pot to make sprue goo is definitely a plus.
Great video. Would love to see your take on gap filling, which is truly, for me, the absolute most hated task to perform. I'm seldom satisfied with the outcome. The newer GW minis usually hide the seam lines well, but sometimes not well at all. The push-fits are especially annoying to assemble so that the seams blend in the way I want. I cut down the posts and use thicker plastic cement, but I'm always game for seeing someone else's take.
Appreciate the attention to curved blades! I find it's easier for me to use a curved one to even get normal mold lines, I can control the point of contact more easily and avoid accidentally scraping the wrong place. I'm also a clumsy person, so consider trying this way
Amen to all of that!
Rounded blades are great!
Ninjon mentioned the sanding sticks in a video, I went looking and found the sponges instead. Glad to see I made a good decision in buying them
Sponges all the way! I'm willing to go to war over this 😅
Totally agree on Godhands being a critical piece of kit, but Tamiya extra thin plastic glue with brush applicator is the only glue. Cork board for building up bases, green stuff on hand for both gaps and customization. 1mm brass rods for pinning beefy bits. I’ve also been an x10 guy for a couple of years.
NOW, pretty pretty please help me upgrade m dry brushes (aka wife’s old make up brushes) and texture pallet! 😂
HAA, I think it might be time for you to try some 'forever brushes' 😅.
store.artis-opus.com/
We ship worldwide, let us know if you need any specific advice in another comment, replies get lost.
Can't disagree with your list at the top, I guess we need a second stage of tools, all of these are at my desk for sure
Great video and I think you got the main things. Some additional ideas for me would be the following. Drill with some good quality bits is really nice addition, better quality bits can make such a difference. Hobby saw with a nice high number of teeth per inch makes such a difference for cutting if you don't mind the loss of material. Steel ruler if you are working with plasticard or kitbashing (preferably with scored rather than printed markings). Also clamps (including the humble peg) and I do find myself reaching for a pair of needle nose locking pliers regularly which i include in this area. Finally a good strong spudger and white tac type putty are also really useful.
Oh and definitely move building and kitbashing vids.
I use a tamiya pin vice as it has a 3.2mm shank. Then just use gunpla drill bits all with the same shank. saves loads of time switching collets.
I would love a video about green stuff and filling very large gaps ❤
I'm keen on a worn out sanding stick or two because I find them a bit less fiddly and more compatible with my dodgy ligaments than a sponge strip but I'll give it a bit of practice. Gotta get me a rounded scrapey though 👍
Rounded scrapey is life! Best 5quid hobby spend ever :)
I know it sounds weird but sewing needles. They're great for really fiddly bits and if you get the angle right you can use them for scrapping similar to a knife. Just don't slip, i know from experience how that ends 😮
Another superb video Byron , I tend to use swan Morton scalpel with both curved and straight blades, but the one thing I’ve always used is o.5 mm copper wire and 0.5 mm drill bit to connect models together when I am kit bashing or converting a figure , the copper wire is strong but flexible so you can bend it to the right angle you need …oh and white Millie put … 😊
tamiya airbrush cleaner (its the same as their thin poly cement but cheaper and in much greater quantity) , Sanding sticks, so helpful for fine resin models. Love my wow stick, excellent for pinning and drilling bolter barrels and oddly enough, a silicone fidget popper, makes an awesome pallet for my paint and so easy to clean!
I wouldn't be without my swan Morton scalpels. Have one handle that I've had for about 40 years 😂 Wouldn't be without some hobby clamps/clips as well. Though would appreciate a video about ways to use them effectively
I wouldn't use revel contacta over Tamiya extra thin
Swan Morton scalpels are far better Exacta style knife handles, if only because they don't roll off the bench, curved blades are really good for scraping mould lines away
Hard sanding sticks are better than sponges for curved surfaces because when used correctly, they don't put unwanted "flats" on the surface.
Lastly
Black flexible superglue (flexi 5k by VMS is what i use) is brilliant at filling seams and gaps
I'm with you on the straight aluminum handles for Xacto knives. I have one with a rubber grip and it's always slipping off. A snap knife can be good if you need a longer thicker blade sometimes like for foam as well.
My best tool is... Patience! Holding glued pieces together even 10 seconds longer than you would normally makes a huge difference. Reminded of your Deathwing Terminator video on how to immediately improve painting with basic techniques - just take more time!
Would love to see more assembly videos, especially using Green Stuff + Milliput (the two mixed is even better!) and conversions.
Something like Vallejo water based filler is a must have for any filling needs, just wipes away with a dampened cotton bud!
I like the x-18 blade it’s almost like a flexible chisel for using to remove minis from bases etc, I also like a tooth water flossed when stripping minis after I soak and scrub with a brush give it a blast over an old washing up bowl with a cheap or old waterpik and it gets all the material out of the hard to reach areas!
I love my hobby drill for pinning models, which is something I never used to do, also for drill gun barrels.
I think more videos on assembly would be great. Things like how to use green stuff or gap filler. When is it best to paint a fully assembled model, in parts or even before assembly
I found a UV cured car body filler that i use for gap filling. It is a putty and really cheap. It is super fine and when you have filled the gap to your liking you can clean off the excess and hit it with a uv light and its done.
Use all the tools you mention, love my godhand, its been maybe the best semi expencive tool iv gotten besides an airbrush:)
Having a spool of steel wire and a drill for pinning and sub assemblies is really nice! Keep up the good work on the video tips😊
Rubber bands are a handy tool when assembling tanks as they'll save you from having to hold them while the glue dries.