Hello o/ maybe it help You in future. I removed dent in front of my capera by using gummy hammer and wooden stick. Totally no sign of dent but be carefull. My M2 was totally destroyed and it cost less than 300$ in parts. I repaired it in 5 month by myself and sold it to a friend. He totally knew all story of this camera. This is the most repairable camera i ever had.
Very helpful - Thanks! I have the same (or similar) wrench clamp set, and they are awful. Some of the parts on my M2 were too tight to loosen with these wrenches, and (to my eternal shame) I marred the shutter screw by using mini vice grips (but it worked!). My wrench was also too thick to fit between the recess around the rewind knob screw and the screw itself. I've seen better wrenches in some videos, but I don't know where to buy them, so if anyone has advice on that, I'd appreciate it! Thanks again for a very useful video.
Thanks for your comment! Yes those wrenches are terrible LOL. I'm surprised they lasted for two camera CLA's. It's truly hit or miss with those wrenches you really don't know what you're getting. Cheers amigo!
Thanks for sharing this! Super helpful. Do you ever add any grease/oil to any of the advance lever components when reassembling? (Asking because I am about to reassemble my M3)
This seal is easy to copy... back then many services copy that seal. Id You want to be sure all is in service history. Last couple site in manual... PS: Different country and different customer service
Why not just remove the slow speed escapement entirely? The process isn't too hard and it keeps you from having to haphazardly dump solvents into the camera. Also it lets you properly re-lube the mechanism. Lube needs to be applied from the top and bottom onto the gear axils. If you only lube from the inside, you have to use way too much oil to hope capillary action draws it into the parts you want. Too much lube attracts dust and grime (these cameras are not weather sealed at all) and you will be right back where you started or worse. While I appreciate you making a video to show people the process you are taking, I think it is also important to make sure you are not spreading information that could be damaging.
I don't claim to be a professional leica repair tech, so this way works best for me. I also don't believe this information is damaging. After all these are just mechanical cameras that are going to need upkeep over the years. They're not precious objects, they're tools to make images. This way works great for me, and I haven't had any issues with my cameras with this method. Thank you for your comment!
@@booshu flooding the camera with lighter fluid absolutely can damage things. there is a shaft right next to those gears that goes down to the shutter. lighter fluid will eat away and dissolve the rubberized shutter and it's adheasives if it gets in contact. you have the rangefinder mechanism right next to it on the right, and the balsam that keeps some of those prism working correctly can 100% be damaged. I understand you don't claim to be a leica tech, and that is exactly why you don't have the knowledge to know WHY doing what you did could be damaging. I understand they are tools and I am all for not babying a camera, but someone following your example could brick their expensive camera worse than just some sticky slow speeds. All was fine with your camera and example but others might not be so lucky
@@CSSfreakX Thanks for your comment! I'm more than happy to accept criticism and your comments have been helpful for me to understand how to go about it better next time. Please let me know if you post a video about your process, would love to see it, cheers.
@CSSfreakX I cringed when I saw the lighter fluid going in and had the same thought. It’s trivial to remove the escapement. Clean in ultrasonic cleaner or soak in naphtha, oil axle ends with tiny drops, reinstall. Noah - excellent video, your narration is full of helpful caveats!
this is not how to do this and i wouldnt recommend this method to anyone. this just makes the cleaning that has to follow after a while much more complex and the lighter fluid that spills all over the vulcanite can also become a problem.
I agree, I think next time I'll opt for a precision dropper for the naphtha instead of dumping the bottle on it. It takes a very steady hand to not spill all over the parts, and the benefit of naphtha is that it evaporates pretty quickly, which is my main reasoning for using it in the first place. As far as the vulcanite is concerned, I'm not worried about it. Most of the old vulcanite is so brittle on these cameras they'll have to be replaced at some point down the line. Thanks for your input!
The fact that the gears just started to move when you put the solvent in hap haphazardly is crazy!
Great video! I wish there was more resources for fixing old cameras. Particularly for Leica’s!
Cool video but please can you just set the camera focus manually? That was hard to watch at times…
Hello o/ maybe it help You in future. I removed dent in front of my capera by using gummy hammer and wooden stick. Totally no sign of dent but be carefull. My M2 was totally destroyed and it cost less than 300$ in parts. I repaired it in 5 month by myself and sold it to a friend. He totally knew all story of this camera. This is the most repairable camera i ever had.
Could you tell me if the Leica m3 is similar to the m2! Is the slow gear escapement in the same location. Good video, thanks!
Paul C.
Hi Paul, yes it's in the same place on the M3!
Thanks for the prompt reply!!
Appreciate helping us guys try to save astronomical repairs professionally
Paul C.!
Very helpful - Thanks! I have the same (or similar) wrench clamp set, and they are awful. Some of the parts on my M2 were too tight to loosen with these wrenches, and (to my eternal shame) I marred the shutter screw by using mini vice grips (but it worked!). My wrench was also too thick to fit between the recess around the rewind knob screw and the screw itself. I've seen better wrenches in some videos, but I don't know where to buy them, so if anyone has advice on that, I'd appreciate it! Thanks again for a very useful video.
Thanks for your comment! Yes those wrenches are terrible LOL. I'm surprised they lasted for two camera CLA's. It's truly hit or miss with those wrenches you really don't know what you're getting. Cheers amigo!
Thanks for sharing this! Super helpful. Do you ever add any grease/oil to any of the advance lever components when reassembling? (Asking because I am about to reassemble my M3)
My pleasure! If it's sticky in any way I'll run some ronsonol down, then drop some oil in after it's dry.
Would you lease have a show how to fix Leica M6 film advance stuck in mid roll? Thx
Plenty of M2 and M3 have black seals, but if they are original or Leitz removed and replaced, they will be stamped with a Leica script “L.”
There were no Leica M produced in 1953. The M2 was first produced in 1957
This seal is easy to copy... back then many services copy that seal. Id You want to be sure all is in service history. Last couple site in manual...
PS: Different country and different customer service
Why not just remove the slow speed escapement entirely? The process isn't too hard and it keeps you from having to haphazardly dump solvents into the camera. Also it lets you properly re-lube the mechanism. Lube needs to be applied from the top and bottom onto the gear axils. If you only lube from the inside, you have to use way too much oil to hope capillary action draws it into the parts you want. Too much lube attracts dust and grime (these cameras are not weather sealed at all) and you will be right back where you started or worse. While I appreciate you making a video to show people the process you are taking, I think it is also important to make sure you are not spreading information that could be damaging.
I don't claim to be a professional leica repair tech, so this way works best for me. I also don't believe this information is damaging. After all these are just mechanical cameras that are going to need upkeep over the years. They're not precious objects, they're tools to make images. This way works great for me, and I haven't had any issues with my cameras with this method. Thank you for your comment!
@@booshu flooding the camera with lighter fluid absolutely can damage things. there is a shaft right next to those gears that goes down to the shutter. lighter fluid will eat away and dissolve the rubberized shutter and it's adheasives if it gets in contact. you have the rangefinder mechanism right next to it on the right, and the balsam that keeps some of those prism working correctly can 100% be damaged. I understand you don't claim to be a leica tech, and that is exactly why you don't have the knowledge to know WHY doing what you did could be damaging. I understand they are tools and I am all for not babying a camera, but someone following your example could brick their expensive camera worse than just some sticky slow speeds. All was fine with your camera and example but others might not be so lucky
@@CSSfreakX Thanks for your comment! I'm more than happy to accept criticism and your comments have been helpful for me to understand how to go about it better next time. Please let me know if you post a video about your process, would love to see it, cheers.
@CSSfreakX I cringed when I saw the lighter fluid going in and had the same thought. It’s trivial to remove the escapement. Clean in ultrasonic cleaner or soak in naphtha, oil axle ends with tiny drops, reinstall.
Noah - excellent video, your narration is full of helpful caveats!
Don’t set on auto focus on your video camera
this is not how to do this and i wouldnt recommend this method to anyone. this just makes the cleaning that has to follow after a while much more complex and the lighter fluid that spills all over the vulcanite can also become a problem.
I agree, I think next time I'll opt for a precision dropper for the naphtha instead of dumping the bottle on it. It takes a very steady hand to not spill all over the parts, and the benefit of naphtha is that it evaporates pretty quickly, which is my main reasoning for using it in the first place. As far as the vulcanite is concerned, I'm not worried about it. Most of the old vulcanite is so brittle on these cameras they'll have to be replaced at some point down the line. Thanks for your input!