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Does this single coils body feature hidden humbuckers holes? Thanks

Nice. Fender has the Lime Green SS and black hh on sale for $139! I ordered the black hh since I have no humbucker guitar. But the green is awesome too. I didnt want another only single coil guitar..

You clean and then rub with your fingers. It’s not leather. You do this without protecting your shutter with a body cap. Hard to take you seriously.

do you need to apply anything thereafter?

The fact that the gears just started to move when you put the solvent in hap haphazardly is crazy!

My GW670ii just locked up on film advance - The advance lever is stuck halfway. I had the entire shutter replaced by Southern Photo in Florida earlier this year. Assuming it's the same issue as yours, I'm not sure if it would be expected to have these parts cleaned and lubricated during the course of such a repair, or maybe this is just the effect of having and old camera. Having a "brand new" shutter on this camera makes me really not want to give up on it. You mentioned you used Hoppe's lubricating oi. Taking your caveat that you are not a camera tech, wondering which type you used? I've read about how specific camera techs are with the types of lubricants they use on various parts, but if this has worked for you I'd at least want to get the right type. I'm a little shy about taking mine apart, but if the repair estimate is in the hundreds, I might give it a go. Thank you for posting such a helpful video!

Could you tell me if the Leica m3 is similar to the m2! Is the slow gear escapement in the same location. Good video, thanks! Paul C.

cool video :)

This is great, thank you! I *think* this is what is happening to my GSW690iii, every now and again I'll advance to a frame and the shutter won't fire and the film won't advance further, as if the shutter didn't get cocked. I've had to spool the film back in a changing bag to start over. I'm assuming the mechanism hasn't changed much between the versions, so I'll open it up and check this part.

this is not how to do this and i wouldnt recommend this method to anyone. this just makes the cleaning that has to follow after a while much more complex and the lighter fluid that spills all over the vulcanite can also become a problem.

Thank you for the video, how easy is it to get the shutter serviced or repaired for this model these days? I'd really like to get one, but I am a bit worried about the long term CLA / repair support.

Don’t set on auto focus on your video camera

I did the same to mine. The peg is in a bar that runs against the gears under the winder. My oil worked it way to that and it works much better. Theres also an anodized pendulum bar that is under that. Mine was moving slow and i put a spot of oil on the pivot from the front. Now it zips back. Be very careful that you don't loose the spring on the front of the ranger finder. Mine flew off into the ether and had to make a new one using .2 mm spring steel wire. I shaped it with jewelry pliers. It works great now.

There were no Leica M produced in 1953. The M2 was first produced in 1957

Proper and safest way is to remove the body from the camera.

My camera has a frame spacing issue with frames 6&7 and i only got five exposures out of each of my two test rolls. I'm waiting on a reply from my ebay seller.

This seal is easy to copy... back then many services copy that seal. Id You want to be sure all is in service history. Last couple site in manual... PS: Different country and different customer service

Thanks for sharing this! Super helpful. Do you ever add any grease/oil to any of the advance lever components when reassembling? (Asking because I am about to reassemble my M3)

Plenty of M2 and M3 have black seals, but if they are original or Leitz removed and replaced, they will be stamped with a Leica script “L.”

Would you lease have a show how to fix Leica M6 film advance stuck in mid roll? Thx

Highly informative.

Hello o/ maybe it help You in future. I removed dent in front of my capera by using gummy hammer and wooden stick. Totally no sign of dent but be carefull. My M2 was totally destroyed and it cost less than 300$ in parts. I repaired it in 5 month by myself and sold it to a friend. He totally knew all story of this camera. This is the most repairable camera i ever had.

Good information. I would add it's always a good idea to use a body cap - it will prevent bits of brittle covering making their way into internal mechanisms .

Thank You. I will replace mine on Leica m4 and also i will paint sth. It will my camera for life so heh ;3

Cool video but please can you just set the camera focus manually? That was hard to watch at times…

The hand sanatizer trick is brilliant. Thank's for the video.

Why not just remove the slow speed escapement entirely? The process isn't too hard and it keeps you from having to haphazardly dump solvents into the camera. Also it lets you properly re-lube the mechanism. Lube needs to be applied from the top and bottom onto the gear axils. If you only lube from the inside, you have to use way too much oil to hope capillary action draws it into the parts you want. Too much lube attracts dust and grime (these cameras are not weather sealed at all) and you will be right back where you started or worse. While I appreciate you making a video to show people the process you are taking, I think it is also important to make sure you are not spreading information that could be damaging.

Great video! I wish there was more resources for fixing old cameras. Particularly for Leica’s!

Very helpful - Thanks! I have the same (or similar) wrench clamp set, and they are awful. Some of the parts on my M2 were too tight to loosen with these wrenches, and (to my eternal shame) I marred the shutter screw by using mini vice grips (but it worked!). My wrench was also too thick to fit between the recess around the rewind knob screw and the screw itself. I've seen better wrenches in some videos, but I don't know where to buy them, so if anyone has advice on that, I'd appreciate it! Thanks again for a very useful video.