You’d definitely need a bright pink “place mic here” gaffer tape crosshair on the grill to gig this cab regularly, or it’d only be a matter of time before you forget to warn a sound guy and they end up micing a plank of wood 😂.
Oh yeah, I'd def be double checking before the gig. When I was a sound guy, I'd look for the dome with a flashlight when I mic'd an amp typically, so I personally would not make that mistake.
Clapton toured with Cream playing 4x12 Marshall cabs only loaded with two speakers in each cab. He preferred the open back like sound that way. I've always wanted to try that myself.
What with no blocks like that I put in ? Man, I swear I tried that and it sounded bad, at least for what I like to do. Suppose I should try it again sometimes.
From the back of an open 4x12 ? With the cab facing away. I imagine the back would be a much darker sound as you haven't got access to the dust caps. Just lets the lows thru, which might somewhat compensate for the lack of cab resonance. I love cab resonance, I can't imagine the being my cup of tea. Not the way I run my gear.
Another option is to run two drivers and simply leave the other two slots open (which, more or less turns the sealed cab into a vented cab). Kevin O'Connor calls this a 'detuned' cabinet, and has been promoting this practice for decades. Happily, not only does this save weight and cost, it also sounds fantastic.
Damn eh, I hadn't thought of that. I would of assumed that was a bad idea. I tend to like the idea of a sealed cab as I prefer the sound of them to open back, and that sounds like an open back hybrid. It's can't be bad like having passives, so that's cool. Might be worth a try.
@@DATT Plugging some ballpark values into a bass/reflex port calculator will reassure you that it's much more akin to a vented cabinet alignment than an open back cab
Passive radiators are for when your using a cabinet thats to small for the speaker, and your doing the opposite here. In my opinion for high gain guitar sealed cab is the only way to go
Yo bro! Got a question…. I’ve got a mg4x12 Marshall and just picked up 2- 70/80s for an upgrade, which are both 16 ohm 80watt…. I’ve also got an EHX 12” 8ohm 30 watt and a pulse 8ohm 60 watt…. What would you do for a wire scheme ?
Forgot to add that I’m pushing them with a MG100hdfx head… but I never turn it up very loud …. Wonder if I should just do a 2x12 w the 70/80s and leave the other 2 out ?
IF you got some plywood to cut up to do this, it's worth a try. There are ways to wire that up, if it was my cab, and I wanted to run all those speaker together, I'd take the two 8ohm speakers and wire them in series to make 16 ohm total, then I could wire that set in parallel with the other two 16 drivers, to make a virtual 3x16ohm parallel set, which would make the cab a total of 5.33 ohms, which your head should be able to drive no problem and the power should distribute pretty evenly among all the speakers.
Hey iv been asking everyone to do this and everyone tells me its dumb but can you put some 12 inch subwoofers in a guitar cab and play them at high gain
I'm not sure what you're saying here? 12" subs? Like stereo subs just for bass. It'll work, I think I've tried it before, just might not sound very good.
@DATT yeah subwoofers are about half the price of guitar speakers and the frequency response is pretty close to guitar speakers. I think for high gain they should sound pretty good. I'm probably wrong but I don't have a cabinet or amp to try it out
@@Durkhead Fq responce on paper and what they actually sound like are different, it's hard to explain. Home and Car audio subs, the ones made of plastic, are a no go for sure. I assume you're talking about pro audio subs that are paper? There are some that can, like I have a JBL sub in a bass cab here cause I blew the original and needed a replacement in a hurry. It works, not as good sounding. Subs will have an identical listed operating FQ but since they aren't intended to push a lot of mids, they might sound duller up in that range. They might have more emphasis in the low mid just under the crossover point in which a high mid or tweeter is suppose to take over. I have vague memories of trying this, and I recall a dull honky sound. Dull could smooth out high gain playing alone, but it won't cut in a mix or on stage. That and they tend to be less efficient, less dB per watt of power, so you end up cranking your amp just to get the same volume, which depending on your tone, is bad if you are going for a tighter modern sound. Not that I'm thinking of it, there was this peavy 4x15 sub cab I played with back in the day that sounded pretty good alone, but yeah, it was dull, and not loud. Put it this way, if it was a good idea, everyone would be doing it. I think there are expections, I do believe some famous guitar speakers today, like some EV units started off as PA speakers. But it's one of those things where, when they figured out it was good for guitar, they jacked up the price and remarketed it. Now day, if it's cheap, it's cause it is what it is, and modern engineering means, for new designs, they know exactly what it's going to be good for before they build it.
@DATT the only thing your wrong about hear is the efficiency, modern subwoofer run at lower ohms and are more efficient. The pioneer I was looking at is a dual voice coil 4ohm so you could actually wire it for 2ohms but I don't know how that would effect a guitar amp. A long time ago I had a bass amp which I had replaced the speaker with a RadioShack 8 inch subwoofer (which was paper cone) and me and my brother recorded my guitar with a metalzone through a sm57 and it sounded awesome but he had a really nice Mackie mixing board so maybe that was it
@@Durkhead Oh yeah no, less ohms doesn't mean more efficient, I get why people would think that, since a solid state amp will flow more current to a low imp driver. Tube amps don't quite work that way, they do but they don't it's a long story. That DV sub, not many guitar amps are 2 ohm stable, if anything you've have to wire to coils in series, to get it to be 8 ohms, then it can match. Basically, if you look at the spec sheet, there is a rating called sensitivity. That pioneer dealy, if it's the one I was looking at, is 78db/w. A cheap guitar speaker is 92-95, I higher end one is 98-103. Those higher end ones are the one's they are talking about when they say they make a 50 watt amp sounds like 100. A 78db sub would make a 100w amp sound like 50, even at low ohms. Sensitivity means for 1w of power you'd get 78db of sound volume. db scales up fractionally from there, so it takes something like x2 wattage to get 1 more db. I'm not sure off the top of my head. And yeah, an old paper cone radio shack speaker could very well be designed for general purpose. Kind of like the paper pro audio subs I was talking about before. They could work for guitar, and it's possible for a speaker that doens't sound good on it's own, or even low sensitivity, to record well. At the end of the day, if it works for what you need that's all that matters. Again, they just not cut it jamming or live. A rubber pioneer car sub, I can almost promise they wouldn't work well on guitar. They are designed for low low moving air, not even mids really. Guitar's don't go that low, yeah, you get some thump and punch when you chug, but over all, they fall off in the 100's of Hz, above the sweet spot of a car sub. I knew a guy put one on a bass amp once, it did like nothing, just moved a bit.
random question here . What do people normally do to remove speakers where the connections are seemingly stuck? Not sure if it’s a rust issue of some sort. Iv had a cab for a long time and bought it used, never took out the speakers , I feel like I’ll break soemthing if I yank harder I thought about wd 40 but idk if flammable oils etc should be put on electrical connections, that being said I have no idea how else to loosen the connections? Any help?
Usually what happens is those blade or spade connectors speakers use have a kind of barb on them, and they lock in there. When the connectors are fresh, and it's the first insertion, they can be quite tight. Lubricant, I'm not sure if it'll help, maybe, since the barbs aren't really permanent, it could help slip past them easier. Unless there is something else going on with your speaker, it really comes down to careful technique. Knowing that it can come off, and you just really have to wiggle and pull. Typically, I'll need needle nose pliers to get them off when they are that tight. Might need a second set of pliers to hold the speaker side. It's hard to advise one something like that without seeing it myself.
You’d definitely need a bright pink “place mic here” gaffer tape crosshair on the grill to gig this cab regularly, or it’d only be a matter of time before you forget to warn a sound guy and they end up micing a plank of wood 😂.
Haha true... Luckily, he WAS the sound guy for a lot of local gigs back in the day
Oh yeah, I'd def be double checking before the gig. When I was a sound guy, I'd look for the dome with a flashlight when I mic'd an amp typically, so I personally would not make that mistake.
I like the tightness.
Yeah it wasn't too bad, I was surprised. I wouldn't of expected it given how oversized the box would be for the amount of driver.
Clapton toured with Cream playing 4x12 Marshall cabs only loaded with two speakers in each cab. He preferred the open back like sound that way. I've always wanted to try that myself.
What with no blocks like that I put in ?
Man, I swear I tried that and it sounded bad, at least for what I like to do. Suppose I should try it again sometimes.
@@DATT He was also playing JTM45/100's. Not exactly the same as a JCM 800.
@@middle_pickup Yeah, prob a lot looser sounding to begin with. Not sure, you know, it's all preference at some point.
There are people who prefer the sound from the back of the open cab. Two pigeons with one stone: crank the amp+no attenuator. What do you think?
From the back of an open 4x12 ? With the cab facing away. I imagine the back would be a much darker sound as you haven't got access to the dust caps. Just lets the lows thru, which might somewhat compensate for the lack of cab resonance.
I love cab resonance, I can't imagine the being my cup of tea. Not the way I run my gear.
Another option is to run two drivers and simply leave the other two slots open (which, more or less turns the sealed cab into a vented cab). Kevin O'Connor calls this a 'detuned' cabinet, and has been promoting this practice for decades. Happily, not only does this save weight and cost, it also sounds fantastic.
Damn eh, I hadn't thought of that. I would of assumed that was a bad idea. I tend to like the idea of a sealed cab as I prefer the sound of them to open back, and that sounds like an open back hybrid. It's can't be bad like having passives, so that's cool. Might be worth a try.
@@DATT Plugging some ballpark values into a bass/reflex port calculator will reassure you that it's much more akin to a vented cabinet alignment than an open back cab
@@ruetzaudio I guess since it's blowing out the front, alone should make it nothing like open back.
Passive radiators are for when your using a cabinet thats to small for the speaker, and your doing the opposite here. In my opinion for high gain guitar sealed cab is the only way to go
Ah eh, so that's the application. I guess that could make sense, too small a cab and the radiators might phase differently.
cool 👍👍👍
Thanks
Yo bro! Got a question…. I’ve got a mg4x12 Marshall and just picked up 2- 70/80s for an upgrade, which are both 16 ohm 80watt…. I’ve also got an EHX 12” 8ohm 30 watt and a pulse 8ohm 60 watt…. What would you do for a wire scheme ?
Forgot to add that I’m pushing them with a MG100hdfx head… but I never turn it up very loud …. Wonder if I should just do a 2x12 w the 70/80s and leave the other 2 out ?
IF you got some plywood to cut up to do this, it's worth a try.
There are ways to wire that up, if it was my cab, and I wanted to run all those speaker together, I'd take the two 8ohm speakers and wire them in series to make 16 ohm total, then I could wire that set in parallel with the other two 16 drivers, to make a virtual 3x16ohm parallel set, which would make the cab a total of 5.33 ohms, which your head should be able to drive no problem and the power should distribute pretty evenly among all the speakers.
Hey iv been asking everyone to do this and everyone tells me its dumb but can you put some 12 inch subwoofers in a guitar cab and play them at high gain
I'm not sure what you're saying here? 12" subs? Like stereo subs just for bass.
It'll work, I think I've tried it before, just might not sound very good.
@DATT yeah subwoofers are about half the price of guitar speakers and the frequency response is pretty close to guitar speakers. I think for high gain they should sound pretty good. I'm probably wrong but I don't have a cabinet or amp to try it out
@@Durkhead Fq responce on paper and what they actually sound like are different, it's hard to explain.
Home and Car audio subs, the ones made of plastic, are a no go for sure. I assume you're talking about pro audio subs that are paper? There are some that can, like I have a JBL sub in a bass cab here cause I blew the original and needed a replacement in a hurry. It works, not as good sounding. Subs will have an identical listed operating FQ but since they aren't intended to push a lot of mids, they might sound duller up in that range. They might have more emphasis in the low mid just under the crossover point in which a high mid or tweeter is suppose to take over. I have vague memories of trying this, and I recall a dull honky sound. Dull could smooth out high gain playing alone, but it won't cut in a mix or on stage. That and they tend to be less efficient, less dB per watt of power, so you end up cranking your amp just to get the same volume, which depending on your tone, is bad if you are going for a tighter modern sound. Not that I'm thinking of it, there was this peavy 4x15 sub cab I played with back in the day that sounded pretty good alone, but yeah, it was dull, and not loud.
Put it this way, if it was a good idea, everyone would be doing it. I think there are expections, I do believe some famous guitar speakers today, like some EV units started off as PA speakers. But it's one of those things where, when they figured out it was good for guitar, they jacked up the price and remarketed it. Now day, if it's cheap, it's cause it is what it is, and modern engineering means, for new designs, they know exactly what it's going to be good for before they build it.
@DATT the only thing your wrong about hear is the efficiency, modern subwoofer run at lower ohms and are more efficient. The pioneer I was looking at is a dual voice coil 4ohm so you could actually wire it for 2ohms but I don't know how that would effect a guitar amp. A long time ago I had a bass amp which I had replaced the speaker with a RadioShack 8 inch subwoofer (which was paper cone) and me and my brother recorded my guitar with a metalzone through a sm57 and it sounded awesome but he had a really nice Mackie mixing board so maybe that was it
@@Durkhead Oh yeah no, less ohms doesn't mean more efficient, I get why people would think that, since a solid state amp will flow more current to a low imp driver. Tube amps don't quite work that way, they do but they don't it's a long story.
That DV sub, not many guitar amps are 2 ohm stable, if anything you've have to wire to coils in series, to get it to be 8 ohms, then it can match.
Basically, if you look at the spec sheet, there is a rating called sensitivity. That pioneer dealy, if it's the one I was looking at, is 78db/w. A cheap guitar speaker is 92-95, I higher end one is 98-103.
Those higher end ones are the one's they are talking about when they say they make a 50 watt amp sounds like 100. A 78db sub would make a 100w amp sound like 50, even at low ohms. Sensitivity means for 1w of power you'd get 78db of sound volume. db scales up fractionally from there, so it takes something like x2 wattage to get 1 more db. I'm not sure off the top of my head.
And yeah, an old paper cone radio shack speaker could very well be designed for general purpose. Kind of like the paper pro audio subs I was talking about before. They could work for guitar, and it's possible for a speaker that doens't sound good on it's own, or even low sensitivity, to record well. At the end of the day, if it works for what you need that's all that matters. Again, they just not cut it jamming or live. A rubber pioneer car sub, I can almost promise they wouldn't work well on guitar. They are designed for low low moving air, not even mids really. Guitar's don't go that low, yeah, you get some thump and punch when you chug, but over all, they fall off in the 100's of Hz, above the sweet spot of a car sub. I knew a guy put one on a bass amp once, it did like nothing, just moved a bit.
Hi frend! Good video. 🤙
Thanks!
random question here . What do people normally do to remove speakers where the connections are seemingly stuck? Not sure if it’s a rust issue of some sort. Iv had a cab for a long time and bought it used, never took out the speakers , I feel like I’ll break soemthing if I yank harder
I thought about wd 40 but idk if flammable oils etc should be put on electrical connections, that being said I have no idea how else to loosen the connections?
Any help?
Usually what happens is those blade or spade connectors speakers use have a kind of barb on them, and they lock in there. When the connectors are fresh, and it's the first insertion, they can be quite tight. Lubricant, I'm not sure if it'll help, maybe, since the barbs aren't really permanent, it could help slip past them easier. Unless there is something else going on with your speaker, it really comes down to careful technique. Knowing that it can come off, and you just really have to wiggle and pull.
Typically, I'll need needle nose pliers to get them off when they are that tight. Might need a second set of pliers to hold the speaker side.
It's hard to advise one something like that without seeing it myself.