Formulation Fix-Its: Reducing White Rub-In Time in Emulsions
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- Join Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science and Cosmetic Formulator, as she shows you how to overcome the formulation issue of excess rub in time in natural and organic cosmetic emulsions, while still building plenty of luxurious viscosity and elegant skin feel in the finished product. Solve those cosmetic formulating issues with Belinda now, and enjoy your elegant emulsions so much faster, and easier, with the right know-how!
Learn how to formulate cosmetic products with Belinda and the team at the Institute of Personal Care Science! For a copy of this formulation and course information, email info@personalcarescience.com.au or visit www.personalcarescience.com.au
Happy formulating!
Omg! I love you videos. i watch them over and over again. I have learned so much from you! You're an awesome instructor!!
Thank you - happy formulating!
Fantastic approach to a very ubiquitous issue on non-silicone lotions and creams :)
Thank you for watching. We have loads of videos that can help you out! Please go to the search bar on our channel: ua-cam.com/channels/czaVLd160LPFdn9E8hrYxA.html And enter the topic to find related videos. Happy formulating!
Great school indeed. I have purchased Advanced Book and wow, mind-boggling. Will be joining you in 2021.
That's great, we will look forward to having you as a student.
Belinda you are mind boggling ! U are so helpful ! God bless you
Glad you enjoyed!
A Big Thank you Belinda for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
Thank you - happy formulating!
This a great tip. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. We have loads of videos that can help you out! Please go to the search bar on our channel: ua-cam.com/channels/czaVLd160LPFdn9E8hrYxA.html And enter the topic to find related videos. Happy formulating!
Can you please create another updated video like this, thanks.
Thanks for the suggestion! I will see if I can add this to my list. :)
I am looking forward to enroll with you and you team Belinda! Every time I watched one of your videos here I get such good info on the whys and hows of formulating properly!
Thanks Tata K, I am looking forward to support your study in near future :)
Please email us for full references on this topic absolutely FREE: info@personalcarescience.com.au
Thanks for doing more natural formulas. I’m rethinking of taking your class I just would like to be able to do natural products
You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
I appreciate your videos. Thanks so much.
Glad you like them!
Thank You very much Belinda,You are the best.
You are so welcome! :)
Amazing thank you !
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much Belinda, it is extremely useful as i have concorted 2 cream formula, one does not have the microfoaming while the other do. I did consider lowering the Emulsifier after comparing both formula but i noticed exactly what you mentioned above and it lowers the viscosity and body. So now you solve my problem...marvelous! thank you so much
Thank you for watching!
Awesome Belinda! Proud student at IPCS 🥰
Thanks for watching Proud Student
Excellent! I've seen this problem be brought up a number of times but I've never heard of this particular solution. I have a question however: Why is it happening if the cream already consists of a low HLB emulsifier? In my emulsion I've used polysorbate 80 (HLB: 15) and glyceryl stearate (HLB: 3.8) and it still rubs in white even though I have a low HLB emulsifier included. My lipid phase is 27 % and I'm using a total of 3 % emulsifiers, so it's not an excessive amount of emulsifiers that is contributing to the problem. I've had success with 2 % dimethicone, but not all formulas are compatible with silicons.
Hi Chris,
The problem in this combination is polysorbate 80 as it is a naturally high foaming surfactant material. I would recommend you choose a different emulsifier as this material is better suited to solubilising than emulsifying and you’re hence getting the white rub in issue. Hope this helps.
The Institute of Personal Care Science
Thank you very much, I will definitely give it another go with a different emulsifier.
thank you so much
You're welcome!
Thanks for this informative video you are amazing,I hop I can afford studying in your Institute ):
Please contact us for a full price list, we have upfront and instalment options for payment: info@personalcarescience.com.au Happy formulating - and soon, happy studying!
Thank you!
No problem 😊
When you add your 2% of low HLB emulsifier where do you take that 2% from in the existing formula ? Is it deducted from the water proportion ? Many thanks x
You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 I would really love to but I am UK based, and have really struggled to source many things mentioned in your videos, and some things are not permitted for use in the UK ? How would I get around these barriers ? thanks
Yes, you take it from the water proportional. :) ask them for the free formulas and you’ll see.
hi does that mean, your formula will be equal to 102% because of the 2% low HLB emulsifier that u added on the 2nd product?
No - reduce the water input to total 100%. Formulas must always total 100% so where an adjustment is made, another ingredient needs to be adjusted to bring it back to 100% (in o/w emulsions, it is typically water).
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 will 2% of 112-80-1 work?
Really useful content but what about lotions? I want to reduce this effect on my lotions but with more viscosity I'll have a cream. Your reply is going to be really helpful!!
Thank you for watching. You can learn all about materials and how to find out what they are used for in our courses. You can study online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course will suit you best: info@personalcarescience.com.au
how do we get the book ?
Thanks for watching! Please contact us for the full formula, method and supplier details - FREE! info@personalcarescience.com.au Happy formulating!
You mean mix low hlb and high hlb wax will fast the absorption of cream? Please ratio and thx i so i want to be sure if i well understand you ...
Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
Just made this with the exact same ingredients and it still didn't work. It rubs in quicker then other samples but it still whitens initially when starting to rub.
Hi Chris, did you change the oils? You could try increasing the oils slightly or decreasing the high HLB emulsifiers slightly - if you use different grades of lipids or different suppliers of the emulsifier (even if the INCI seems the same, if they are slightly different suppliers the HLB or chemistry can be slightly different). It will whiten slightly on application as you are using natural ingredients - it is not like when using a silicone - but the test of a good rub in time is that with only a little spreading, the white should dissipate quickly, giving the impression that the product has been absorbed. I hope this helps, Belinda
Hello I kindly ask
I have used
Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20 and yet the problem occurs what should I do ?
Hi love the videos, thanks for posting!
What are some examples of natural low hlb emulsifiers and what would be good paired with olivem 1000?
Thank you for watching. You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
So I tried this method and added glyceryl stearate at 2 % and my emulsifier is btms-50. Other then that there's 3 % stearic acid, 1 % preservative, 0.5 % hydroxyethylcellulose and the rest is water. No idea why but this cream rubs in extremely white.
Hi Chris, stearic acid and btms-50 are not compatible together; so please remove one or the other and combine with a high HLB non-ionic emulsifier blend instead. They are not only causing a lot of micro-foam but also insoluble complexes together which is causing the problem. You should consider studying our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation to learn more detail about material selections to help you further. I hope this helps.
The Institute of Personal Care Science switched stearic acid out with cetyl alcohol and it still happened. I give up :(
Hi Chris,
Don’t give up, but learn with us instead! Cetyl alcohol has a really high HLB but doesn’t stabilise as well as a non-ionic blend; but again, needs to be used in correct proportions - I would still really suggest you study with us so you can make more compatible decisions, you learn much, much more than this with us and it will make your formulating selections much easier. I hope this helps, we can help you a lot more when you are a student. Email us: info@personalcarescience.com.au
for full details.
Highly informative video , searching for emulsifiers with low hlb value , found glyceryl mono sterate has a hlb value of 5.8 , which should reduce the white rub in time as mentioned in video , but looking for the of cause of white rub in time over Internet , sources say steric component might add to the cause of white rub in , kindly share your insight on the role of glyceryl sterate in a lotion , and if it would increase in decrease the rub in time , Thanks
Hi Kanaga, stearic acid is very high HLB and a very effective anionic emulsifier, so using high inputs to build viscosity will add to white rub in time like I explain in this video. Glyceryl stearate is low HLB and also increases viscosity, so can help build viscosity but reduce excess white rub in time from high HLB emulsifiers. This is the concept I show in the video, please contact us for the full formulation and method details as that is the solution too! Don't use glyceryl stearate in a lotion unless you have other very high HLB emulsifiers present otherwise it will destabilise the lotion. It depends on what else you have in the formula.
Hi , I checked the HLB value of the product in the formula ( I've got the dropbox) and the HLB value is 12 ?! Is this possible ?
Also I still have excessive white rubbing even with this method ...
12 is okay, and did you use this same combination of emulsifiers with the same combination of lipids? It is a combination of the emulsifiers, lipids and inputs that matters too! Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Hello. Thank you for your nice explain. I try to prepare experimental formula;
INCI
20% Sweet almond oil
4.8% Glyceryl Stearate
2% Cetearyl alcohol
1.2% Sodium stearoyl lactylate
2% Glycerine
70% Water
Texture is nice, feeling is nice, emulsion is stable. But have a microfoam problem. Do you think that I need to increase GS amount to 6.8%? Or adding any other low hlb emulsifier instead of GS.And what do you think about adding cetyl alcohol? Some sources says that it helps to prevent microfoam formation. Thank you.
Hi Antonio you haven't listed your preservative, I am surprised with 20% oil you are getting microfoam. What else is in this formula?
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 Thank you for your reply. I use Geogard ECT as a preservative. But I have a microfoam problem both with and without preservative. So I don't think that problem is about preservative. There is no any other ingredients in formula.
Antonio S glyceryl stearate causes foam. I’ve been experimenting with it for a few hours today and it’s the cause for the white foam in my formulations.
@@MrJMont21 Even using only emulaifying wax also causes micro foaming :(
@@MrJMont21 did you resolve the issue?
Hi Belinda, thanks for the insight. You mentioned the level of lipids you had were 11% and you added a further 2% Low HLB emulsifier. May I ask what was the percentage of High HLB emulsifier in your formulation ? Also, which ratio is critical to maintain in these scenarios out of the three variables L-HLB, H-HLB and Lipids?
We’re happy to provide the full formula, ingredient, supplier, input and method details, please email us: info@personalcarescience.com.au and we can send you a link to access ALL our free formulas and reports. Happy formulating!
My cream has got the right viscosity but it shed white flaky bits after application. What could be the reason for this? It is an oil,buter and aloe vera emulsion. The emulsifier I have used is wax BTMX.
It would depend on many other factors also in the formula. We’d need to review your specific scenario to advise properly, please purchase consulting time here: personalcarescience.com.au/Advice/Advice-2046/
You can also get your formulation questions answered LIVE with Belinda, join our Patreon channel here: www.patreon.com/personalcarescience
Heyy thank you for this. Quick question, is a waxy high HLB emulsifier necessary or could we use polysorbate 20 which also is high HLB ? THANK YOU!
you need to use low HLB to reduce the white rub in. If you don't want more viscosity, you can use a low HLB liquid emulsifier rather than a low HLB waxy one.
Oh thank you so much! I'll definitely try it out and share feedback
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401
I need a your help. I prepared a vanishing cream and i add KOH in it. It release water. Tell me how to fix it
Learn how to formulate with active ingredients, including how to stabilise them in your formulas and check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Are the Montanov 68 or Montanov 202 Low HLB emulsifiers? Or is it the xanthan gum?
Cutina GMS V is the low HLB emulsifier. Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
Great. Thank you @@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401
What's HLB?
Hydrophile-lipophile balance - a measure of how water loving or oil loving an emulsifier is. Learn professional formulation including emulsifier selection and how to check quality/stability with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Hi, it is possible to see the 2 formulas- it help me to see what to you mean by HLB WAXY EMULSIFIER. Usually i know olliva 1000, Glyceryl Stearate and few others, that's why will help me to compare the 2 formulas. Thank you very much!
Hi Costel, Please email us info@personalcarescience.com.au to receive the 2 formulas. Thank you
Tip at 6:00
The most commonly used low HLB materials include:
Cetyl.
Stearyl alcohol.
Eicosanol (C20)
Behenyl alcohol (C22)
Glyceryl Stearate (40-60% mono)
Steareth 2.
Sorbitan Stearate.
You’re welcome
We provide all this for free in written form, Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!