Hello. First of all I would like say I wish I had you working on my machines. You sir are one of the last few great powersports technicians left that have knowledge and patience to do the right job. If i could ask? I own a 2013 xp 850. I went to replace belt and due a proper alignment due to hard shifting issue. I noticed with belt off if I spin secondary or driven clutch it wobbles slightly like it has excessive run out. I removed clutch and checked input shaft with dial indicator and its perfect. Is my driven clutch shot or needs rebuild? Machine has 300 miles and 150 hours. Is very clean and clutches are very clean and new looking. Is this normal? As an auto mechanic it appears abnormal to me and causes belt to drag at times at idle? Thank you for your help or anyone else's.
In order to get my unit to move, I have to rev the RPMs up. Is that the drive clutch or the driven clutch? I am thinking the drive based off of your explanation
should always replace the weights when you do new pins, they wear to each other as the weights have a bushing inside and get worn to the old pin. don't want play in weights causing it to wear into spider
Any video on aligning the clutches? I have a 1000 that’s really hard to shift(shifts ok with bike of), belt looks like it rides against the inside of the primary and has about 1mm gap on the outside of the primary wall
Just a small question, I have a 2010 xp850 Polaris Sportsman had taken the primary clutch off to do some checking on it, was ready to install it back on the machine and carelessly dropped it, broke a tiny piece of one of the fins off, about an inch and half of it, will it still be good to put back on the bike or will it be out of balance too bad?
My Polaris ranger XP 900 jerks in L when it first takes off, but doesn’t in H. That normal? Or does it sound like a clutch issue? I removed the belt to buy a new one, but the service guys at the Polaris shop thought it was fine.
I have a polaris sportsman 700. 2004 and my secondary clutch has a little slot on the outside by the bolt and a bar slides in it.plus my spring inside doesn't have the little tabs that go into the holes. How do I preload it?
in your secondary clutch (upper part) is there a slight movement of the kind that there is still a minimum space to screw because I change my strap and I feel that it does not is not yet tight enough. thank you
My 2017 Polaris 850 sportsman had a clutch kit installed by previous owner, I bought it and it is clunking really bad whenever I release the gas coming to a stop, It clunks until it stops Was told it was something with my clutch system Could this be true..?
You did not miss a thing! We did not rebuild the secondary (driven clutch) in this video. The most common issue is the Primary, so we wanted to focus on that. Typically, you will rebuild the primary 3 or 4 times before you have to mess with the secondary. We were going to do the secondary too, however, at the time of filming, we did not have access to the special tool needed, so we opted to just do the drive clutch rebuild.
ok, thought I was going nuts lol. From what I googled, my problem seems to be the driven unit. It's an 03 Trailblazer 250, and it will bog out on heavy load like when pulling a trailer or climbing a hill from stop. I prefer a rear rebuild and was going to attack that, but don't have the special tool you mentioned, so would that be the issue and would I be alright rebuilding using or making my own tool to rebuild?
I cannot determine if you are going nuts or not...but in this case, you were absolutely correct. This should be the tool you need. www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/aftermarket/XP-4146530.html We just didn't have it on hand at the time.
Hey brother first of all thank you for making these videos. I have a 2018 high lifter sportsman 850 and I have a very strange driveline noise almost sounds like a bad wheel bearing all wheel bearings have been checked and got over what else could it be? Thanks in advance
Ryan Perez. Since you have a high lifter edition I’m gonna guess you have it up to the handlebars in mud regularly. I thought Polaris did away with grease fittings years ago but if you have any you should give them a shot of grease after you wash it after a mud run to push the grit out of them. And wd-40 is shit in a can. I wouldn’t use it on anything. Many better spray lubes/penetrating oils out there. Like fluid film or krown.
Great video, my 14 850xp has clutch kit and it’s keeping the belt tight and making it hard to shift gear and whining, both my clutches spin at idle and I get lots of whining u def load at idle. I think it need new clutches or at least rebuilt back to stock?
I have a 2007 Cub Cadet Camo 4x4 utility . I bought and installed a new oem equipment drive and driven clutch and transfer case. The shifter would shift (F-N-R) when it wasn't running. When I started it I noticed at idle the driven clutch was spinning and the shifter did not want to change gears. when I installed the two clutches I used a impact and now wondering if that's the reason? Also I was wondering if the driven clutch went on all the way because of the taper or is the belt out of aline?
I know this is way,way late but it needs shimmed or cleaned up really well or both and make sure to check the bearing because more than likely it needs replaced. GODBLESS
My Polaris dealer put new bushing & needle bearings in my Primary 2011 XP Ranger clutch. I marked the components for realignment but the tech guy put it all back together NOT LINED UP. He said no big deal. But doesn't Polaris factory balance these units?
I just brought my 2016 Polaris 850 sportsman in for service my belt blew and they told me I needed a new clutch due to, the bushing sticking i had asked them if they changed the bushings and cleaned the shaft would it be ok I was told yes. then they told me after they did that upon start up it was engaging. so in gear it would move I brought it home Primary Drive Clutch EBS that they installed the bushing wrong it moves clockwise should it move counter clockwise being that it's EBS system
The EBS system is a confusing design. If they installed it wrong, shouldn't they fix it? The whole point of the one-way bearing is that it won't got counter clockwise. It binds the belt to engage the engine braking.
Hey Scott! We've considered working on newer machines but we've found that 2015 machines usually aren't broken and in need of repair like the older rigs. Also, repairs for older machines will often work for 2015 machines as well. It's worth asking if you see an older repair and you have a newer ATV.
I am having an issue with my belt riding at idle too high in the secondary causing severer creeping. I saw in the video the outer sheave on the secondary had a extra play. Mine does not. Could my square slider be binding causing the sheave to not ride loosely on the belt? This started after a belt change.
It's the one way bearing. Mine just Seized or is starting to seize and it causing creep and hard shifting. You could replace it with a 2 way bearing, the one way bearing is for engine braking between 1 and 4mph and is not necessary. The 2 way bearing may last much longer. The one way bearing costs around 56.00
You mentioned the belt being installed to be able to read it correctly... what is the ramification if it's installed going the opposite way? I think mine is backward and I'm experiencing 'creep'... the secondary/driven clutch moves when idling. thx
When the belt is new it can be put on either way. If you ever pull it off once it has been run in, it will need to go back in the orientation it was pulled. Why not just put it on with the writing facing you so there is never a question as to what orientation it was in? As for the creep, your idle could be too high or the sheave isn't retracting enough at idle.
question for ya, I have a 02 polaris sportsman 400. And when you punch tr he gas it bog, but if you slowly give it gas it will rev just fine. what do ya think?
Please help I am trying to remove my secondary clutch on a 2011 Polaris Sportsman 550 but if I turn the bolt it has about 1” of play but won’t loosen I’ve tried just about everything to loosen it. Any help would appreciated thanks. Update: I’ve looked behind the clutch while in trying to turn the bolt ant it looks like the 1” of play is from the whole shaft turning.
Thank you for the video, you are the only video on the internet that shows that to remove clutch it’s clockwise direction..
Just want to say you have helped me a lot with your straight forward videos, thank you! I will be using your replacement parts
Awesome instructional, thanks for posting!
Hello. First of all I would like say I wish I had you working on my machines. You sir are one of the last few great powersports technicians left that have knowledge and patience to do the right job. If i could ask? I own a 2013 xp 850. I went to replace belt and due a proper alignment due to hard shifting issue. I noticed with belt off if I spin secondary or driven clutch it wobbles slightly like it has excessive run out. I removed clutch and checked input shaft with dial indicator and its perfect. Is my driven clutch shot or needs rebuild? Machine has 300 miles and 150 hours. Is very clean and clutches are very clean and new looking. Is this normal? As an auto mechanic it appears abnormal to me and causes belt to drag at times at idle? Thank you for your help or anyone else's.
In order to get my unit to move, I have to rev the RPMs up. Is that the drive clutch or the driven clutch? I am thinking the drive based off of your explanation
should always replace the weights when you do new pins, they wear to each other as the weights have a bushing inside and get worn to the old pin. don't want play in weights causing it to wear into spider
very good video !
Any video on aligning the clutches? I have a 1000 that’s really hard to shift(shifts ok with bike of), belt looks like it rides against the inside of the primary and has about 1mm gap on the outside of the primary wall
what happens if u took the primary clutch apart before you knew u needed to line it up before tear down please help Rocky mountain property cosmetics.
Just a small question, I have a 2010 xp850 Polaris Sportsman had taken the primary clutch off to do some checking on it, was ready to install it back on the machine and carelessly dropped it, broke a tiny piece of one of the fins off, about an inch and half of it, will it still be good to put back on the bike or will it be out of balance too bad?
Is this clutch system similar to how snowmobiles work??
Very Informative thanks!
My Polaris ranger XP 900 jerks in L when it first takes off, but doesn’t in H. That normal? Or does it sound like a clutch issue? I removed the belt to buy a new one, but the service guys at the Polaris shop thought it was fine.
I have a polaris sportsman 700. 2004 and my secondary clutch has a little slot on the outside by the bolt and a bar slides in it.plus my spring inside doesn't have the little tabs that go into the holes. How do I preload it?
Nice job
in your secondary clutch (upper part) is there a slight movement of the kind that there is still a minimum space to screw because I change my strap and I feel that it does not is not yet tight enough. thank you
My 2017 Polaris 850 sportsman had a clutch kit installed by previous owner,
I bought it and it is clunking really bad whenever I release the gas coming to a stop,
It clunks until it stops
Was told it was something with my clutch system
Could this be true..?
It could be. You'll have to inspect it to see what's going on.
How do I align a Primary clutch on a sportsman wv850
Did I miss something or did you not rebuild the secondary?
You did not miss a thing! We did not rebuild the secondary (driven clutch) in this video. The most common issue is the Primary, so we wanted to focus on that. Typically, you will rebuild the primary 3 or 4 times before you have to mess with the secondary. We were going to do the secondary too, however, at the time of filming, we did not have access to the special tool needed, so we opted to just do the drive clutch rebuild.
ok, thought I was going nuts lol. From what I googled, my problem seems to be the driven unit. It's an 03 Trailblazer 250, and it will bog out on heavy load like when pulling a trailer or climbing a hill from stop. I prefer a rear rebuild and was going to attack that, but don't have the special tool you mentioned, so would that be the issue and would I be alright rebuilding using or making my own tool to rebuild?
I cannot determine if you are going nuts or not...but in this case, you were absolutely correct. This should be the tool you need. www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/aftermarket/XP-4146530.html We just didn't have it on hand at the time.
Haha. Alright, thanks guys!
Should the belt move the drive clutch and the driven clutch together while in park?
No, the primary is not pinching the belt at idle.
Hey brother first of all thank you for making these videos. I have a 2018 high lifter sportsman 850 and I have a very strange driveline noise almost sounds like a bad wheel bearing all wheel bearings have been checked and got over what else could it be? Thanks in advance
Hard to say, could be belt. You will have to trace it back to the source of the noise.
Turned out the drivelines needed lubrication greased all ujoints also wd-40 all shafts and noise was gone .
Ryan Perez. Since you have a high lifter edition I’m gonna guess you have it up to the handlebars in mud regularly.
I thought Polaris did away with grease fittings years ago but if you have any you should give them a shot of grease after you wash it after a mud run to push the grit out of them.
And wd-40 is shit in a can. I wouldn’t use it on anything. Many better spray lubes/penetrating oils out there. Like fluid film or krown.
Great video, my 14 850xp has clutch kit and it’s keeping the belt tight and making it hard to shift gear and whining, both my clutches spin at idle and I get lots of whining u def load at idle. I think it need new clutches or at least rebuilt back to stock?
You can rebuild the current clutch or go back to stock to take the headache out.
I have a 2007 Cub Cadet Camo 4x4 utility . I bought and installed a new oem equipment drive and driven clutch and transfer case. The shifter would shift (F-N-R) when it wasn't running. When I started it I noticed at idle the driven clutch was spinning and the shifter did not want to change gears. when I installed the two clutches I used a impact and now wondering if that's the reason? Also I was wondering if the driven clutch went on all the way because of the taper or is the belt out of aline?
I know this is way,way late but it needs shimmed or cleaned up really well or both and make sure to check the bearing because more than likely it needs replaced. GODBLESS
I have a 2015 sportsman 850 same as your working on. the clutch tool isn't that just a grade 8 3/4 national fine threaded rod?
The short answer to that is Yes.
My Polaris dealer put new bushing & needle bearings in my Primary 2011 XP Ranger clutch. I marked the components for realignment but the tech guy put it all back together NOT LINED UP. He said no big deal. But doesn't Polaris factory balance these units?
Hello Hank. Yes this can be a issue. Polaris does in fact factory balance.
Is removing the "movable bearing" inside a difficult task? I'm getting what sounds like bearing noise.
The bearing in the drive clutch? It's not that bad, I would do a thorough inspection on the clutch before you start buying parts.
if the clutchs where good why would u replace them. I don't replace clutchs unless they are done.
I wanted to show the process. Specifically how to transfer the weights over to the new clutch.
I just brought my 2016 Polaris 850 sportsman in for service my belt blew and they told me I needed a new clutch due to,
the bushing sticking i had asked them if they changed the bushings and cleaned the shaft would it be ok I was told yes. then they told me after they did that upon start up it was engaging. so in gear it would move I brought it home Primary Drive Clutch EBS that they installed the bushing wrong it moves clockwise should it move counter clockwise being that it's EBS system
The EBS system is a confusing design. If they installed it wrong, shouldn't they fix it? The whole point of the one-way bearing is that it won't got counter clockwise. It binds the belt to engage the engine braking.
can u do some videos on newer machines such as 2015
Hey Scott! We've considered working on newer machines but we've found that 2015 machines usually aren't broken and in need of repair like the older rigs. Also, repairs for older machines will often work for 2015 machines as well. It's worth asking if you see an older repair and you have a newer ATV.
part# for clutch tool plz. I want to order one from you guys this week
www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/aftermarket/XP-4467875.html
Here ya go!
@@PartzillaParts updated part #???
Can you please indicate where you may add shims to a secondary clutch for a 850 xp Polaris sportsman ate. Would it be possible to make a video?
We'll add it to the list!
Any update on this? I need to know how to shim secondary on 850xp.
I am having an issue with my belt riding at idle too high in the secondary causing severer creeping. I saw in the video the outer sheave on the secondary had a extra play. Mine does not. Could my square slider be binding causing the sheave to not ride loosely on the belt? This started after a belt change.
What is your RPM at idle?
1250 I had to add a quarter inch of shim to get the top of the belt to sit flush with the top of the sheave.
What is the year make model and hours?
2017 Polaris Sportsman 850 25 hours.
It's the one way bearing. Mine just
Seized or is starting to seize and it causing creep and hard shifting. You could replace it with a 2 way bearing, the one way bearing is for engine braking between 1 and 4mph and is not necessary. The 2 way bearing may last much longer. The one way bearing costs around 56.00
You mentioned the belt being installed to be able to read it correctly... what is the ramification if it's installed going the opposite way? I think mine is backward and I'm experiencing 'creep'... the secondary/driven clutch moves when idling. thx
When the belt is new it can be put on either way. If you ever pull it off once it has been run in, it will need to go back in the orientation it was pulled. Why not just put it on with the writing facing you so there is never a question as to what orientation it was in? As for the creep, your idle could be too high or the sheave isn't retracting enough at idle.
thanks John... sounds like shim time...
Sounds like one way bearing time
question for ya, I have a 02 polaris sportsman 400. And when you punch tr he gas it bog, but if you slowly give it gas it will rev just fine. what do ya think?
Why does my Polaris stutter when I get up to about 10mph it is a Hawkeye 300
Jesse Duramax clutch parts used wanted
Why don’t you show the actual struggles of putting the belt on rather than jump scene.
I need a link for that bolt you used to removed the primary clutch please.
www.partzilla.com/product/aftermarket/2XQT-EPI-PCP-12
@@PartzillaParts how in the world do I get the removal tool with the axle on the way ,I'm pulling my hair
What is the torque for everything?
Cover bolts are 100 in. lbs.
drive bolt is 47 ft. lbs.
Please help I am trying to remove my secondary clutch on a 2011 Polaris Sportsman 550 but if I turn the bolt it has about 1” of play but won’t loosen I’ve tried just about everything to loosen it. Any help would appreciated thanks.
Update: I’ve looked behind the clutch while in trying to turn the bolt ant it looks like the 1” of play is from the whole shaft turning.
.