The functionality of that backprobe attachment and the fuse tester (continuity probe? I'm bad with terminology) was awesome! There were a few times I needed a smaller probe, but didn't realize all the possible ways to check with the cheapo multimeter I have. Can you share a link or product name for the multimeter you were using? That thing is cool! Also, any good resources to learn more about multimeter usage scenarios or related electrical stuff?
Thanks for watching @terrapinflyer273! If you go on Amazon and type in 'multimeter leads' a bunch of options come up at different price points. 'Multimeter backprobes' comes up with even more options on the backprobe front. Sometimes I use 'T-pins' and alligator clips. It all depends on what I'm trying to do and how much space I have to get in there. As far as resources, I just posted a video on multimeter use ;) and I'm working on another that covers advanced meter use. The owners manual that comes with your meter is usually a pretty good learning tool as well. If your meter didn't come with one look up 'Mac Tools EM721 owners manual'. That manual has a bunch of different testing methods for different types of sensors. It's the main meter I used in my video 'Multimeter Skills you NEED to Know!' It's going to be a little further out but I'm also working on some videos on how to make your own test leads and how to use a test light. Another really good resource for all things automotive diagnostics is the channel @ScannerDanner He's a teacher for automotive and has a ton of really good videos that explain basics and advanced diagnostics. He also has a textbook (Engine Performance Diagnostics) he wrote that I STRONGLY recommend. I have all of my apprentices buy it and we go through it together.
Fair, but you know what annoys me more? Replacement connectors are difficult to find, expensive, or nonexistent in some cases. And aside from the terminals, plastic becomes more brittle with age and eventually something's gonna snap as a vehicle needs work. Terminals can be replaced, maybe your success varies based on the connector brand and series, but often terminals are more available than the connector housing itself, again depending. I really wish it wasn't that way. And they're ALL DIFFERENT because automotive connectors aren't really standardized and change make to make, model to model, year to year. Front probing is also fine if you have a small enough or correct terminal to insert and don't need it assembled for a diagnosis, but obviously you might not want to waste the time if you're only measuring it once. I'm thinking some solid core copper wire could be smushed and cut to the right size for a terminal, or if doing a lot of these it may make more sense to find the connector series (again, difficult) and order some terminals you can make probes out of. Not that it's a huge problem but I often have difficulty getting proper contact with backprobing, but if you're resistance checking it's probably less of an issue than measuring signals, because if I'm measuring signals I'm probably not going to stand there with my hand holding the probe to keep it in position while I say, start up the vehicle. Just some thoughts, enjoyed the rant.
I agree with you completely. IMO no one method is 100% all the time. The state of plastic connectors as they age and deteriorate might be what pushed me to start back probing. Honestly I am happy with anyone that uses the methods that work for them and just takes their time and does the job right. I’m a big fan of loaded circuit tests. Where I’m at we see a bunch of corrosion and rodent damage is fairly common as well. I usually backprobe and use a test light or a scope, other than on 5v reference circuits that need to be unplugged for accurate reading. Resistance tests are great for locating shorts. Voltage drop testing is probably my favourite method of checking wiring integrity. I’ll also admit that I probably use a scope more than most as I mainly work on diagnostics and training apprentices. I’m glad you’ve found the methods that work best for you, and it sounds like you understand what you’re doing and the limitations associated with each method, which I think is super important. I appreciate your very detailed response, thanks for watching and keep up your good work!!!
Nice rant. If this saves one harness, it was worth it.
Very much appreciated!!
👍👍
Thanks for watching!!
The functionality of that backprobe attachment and the fuse tester (continuity probe? I'm bad with terminology) was awesome! There were a few times I needed a smaller probe, but didn't realize all the possible ways to check with the cheapo multimeter I have.
Can you share a link or product name for the multimeter you were using? That thing is cool! Also, any good resources to learn more about multimeter usage scenarios or related electrical stuff?
Thanks for watching @terrapinflyer273! If you go on Amazon and type in 'multimeter leads' a bunch of options come up at different price points. 'Multimeter backprobes' comes up with even more options on the backprobe front. Sometimes I use 'T-pins' and alligator clips. It all depends on what I'm trying to do and how much space I have to get in there.
As far as resources, I just posted a video on multimeter use ;) and I'm working on another that covers advanced meter use. The owners manual that comes with your meter is usually a pretty good learning tool as well. If your meter didn't come with one look up 'Mac Tools EM721 owners manual'. That manual has a bunch of different testing methods for different types of sensors. It's the main meter I used in my video 'Multimeter Skills you NEED to Know!' It's going to be a little further out but I'm also working on some videos on how to make your own test leads and how to use a test light.
Another really good resource for all things automotive diagnostics is the channel @ScannerDanner He's a teacher for automotive and has a ton of really good videos that explain basics and advanced diagnostics. He also has a textbook (Engine Performance Diagnostics) he wrote that I STRONGLY recommend. I have all of my apprentices buy it and we go through it together.
Fair, but you know what annoys me more? Replacement connectors are difficult to find, expensive, or nonexistent in some cases. And aside from the terminals, plastic becomes more brittle with age and eventually something's gonna snap as a vehicle needs work. Terminals can be replaced, maybe your success varies based on the connector brand and series, but often terminals are more available than the connector housing itself, again depending. I really wish it wasn't that way. And they're ALL DIFFERENT because automotive connectors aren't really standardized and change make to make, model to model, year to year.
Front probing is also fine if you have a small enough or correct terminal to insert and don't need it assembled for a diagnosis, but obviously you might not want to waste the time if you're only measuring it once. I'm thinking some solid core copper wire could be smushed and cut to the right size for a terminal, or if doing a lot of these it may make more sense to find the connector series (again, difficult) and order some terminals you can make probes out of.
Not that it's a huge problem but I often have difficulty getting proper contact with backprobing, but if you're resistance checking it's probably less of an issue than measuring signals, because if I'm measuring signals I'm probably not going to stand there with my hand holding the probe to keep it in position while I say, start up the vehicle.
Just some thoughts, enjoyed the rant.
I agree with you completely. IMO no one method is 100% all the time. The state of plastic connectors as they age and deteriorate might be what pushed me to start back probing. Honestly I am happy with anyone that uses the methods that work for them and just takes their time and does the job right. I’m a big fan of loaded circuit tests. Where I’m at we see a bunch of corrosion and rodent damage is fairly common as well. I usually backprobe and use a test light or a scope, other than on 5v reference circuits that need to be unplugged for accurate reading. Resistance tests are great for locating shorts. Voltage drop testing is probably my favourite method of checking wiring integrity. I’ll also admit that I probably use a scope more than most as I mainly work on diagnostics and training apprentices. I’m glad you’ve found the methods that work best for you, and it sounds like you understand what you’re doing and the limitations associated with each method, which I think is super important. I appreciate your very detailed response, thanks for watching and keep up your good work!!!
😂😂😂😂
Insane timing how fast you got that comment up!!!
I can be very quick when needed then again I see Dennis losing his shit it makes me feel better about myself