Thanks Ron. I wish you had provided a link to your crown molding series of videos in the video description. You mentioned it several times in this video and it would have been easier to find it. Great video.
Larry, go to Ron's UA-cam site and go to the Playlist section, then look for crown molding listing. ua-cam.com/play/PLB1ATCukiUGTqS21fwl_JTgIsuEbQHKnL.html
Ron for the peak piece you can glue it with super glue and kicker or pl210 or pl220 I forget the name, but then it sets almost instant and you have a solid test piece
I borrowed a buddies Hitachi 15" mitre saw for a kitchen with double 8" crown facenailed on a finished riser. I was able to cut it nested or bottom up at spring angle. Now I have another vaulted ceilings to do no blocks 😲
Off topic... kind of. Ron do you use the racks on your truck to haul materials? I know you mentioned in the trailer series you always have materials delivered, but didn't know if that was the case for something small like 5 pcs of crown. Just curious as I'm always trying to become more "lean". Thanks.
Ron I’m 35 and have seen the ladders you use but not since I was just starting out in the trades can you still get those and if so where and are they all wooden or do they make aluminum.
To correct him, around 8-9 minutes, he flips the piece and inserts and new template to make the plumb cut... you DONT need to do that unless it helps you. All he needed to do was keep the crown stop in place where it was and cut 13 degrees in the opposite direction while keeping the crown upside down. It would still be the same plumb cut without changing the setup at all.
I've watched several of these videos and I've found once you get the hang of crown all these jigs and extra steps are way slower than finding your angle and making the cuts. Start by using these tricks until you get the hang of it and can keep the peice you need in your noggin
HI Clayton. Everyone should pick a way that works best for their workflow. This way is the fastest way I have found when using copes for crown molding. I never measure angles as they just don't matter unless you are flipping the saw for the compound cut. Moving the saw in four directions or flipping long pieces of trim takes me longer than a fixed spring angle set with the wood crown stop and then only swinging the miter Right and Left. Copes take longer to cut but install faster, are tighter and hold up for a lifetime. Inside miters do not stand up over time as the wall ceiling connecting has a differential movement which will pull any standard inside miter apart even if glued. Copes for all inside miters is not an option on my projects. It takes longer to measure angles, set the saw and install, plus the results from chasing angles are not as durable over time. I have personally installed 10s of 1000s of feet of crown molding and have not found a method faster/durable as the one demonstrated here. My goal is to be fast, but not at the sacrifice of durability and tight joints.
I love all of your videos and always learn great ticks from you. I have a question about that peak test piece you cut. Why not just use some cyanoacr cyanoacrylic glue with the activator to glue that test piece? That's how I usually make my test pieces? Also I like to cut both sides of a test piece at exactly 10 incest then I mark the spot and measure to that spot. (I almost always have a helper tho) I write that number on tee add 20 incest to the wall where the crown will hide it, then write "+ 20"" and the new number.... anyway great video. I love to check and out some videos from a guy with more experience and knowledge and skills, before I start a job. I am a professional Carpenter with a couple of days of experience but I am always trying to learn more and to do it better, faster, and more efficient. Thank you for sharing.
Your a professional carpenter but only have a couple of days of experience? Could you please explain to me how that works? I'm not trying to be funny or nasty I just don't understand how that is possible.
@@garethheathcote4988 It just means I have been doing it for a long time. I am 47 and started as a framing laborer at 17. I have had my journeyman card since 1998, and a B1 license since 2004
Thank you for the reply... my crew and I have been devouring your videos. referring to it like scripture... "but what did Ron say?" But this is the cut we cannot get. We've tried 45° and it just doesn't fit for us. Back to the drawing board :)
Exactly. This is trash. Notice how he only shows the corners with small pieces? Anyone with a mind for geometry knows that vaulted ceiling angles are different than flat ceilings.
2 parts in and 22 minutes later, still not a single piece of molding attached to the ceiling. Definitely recommend trimming all the talking about theory and just show how to put it up.
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This is so awesome. Prepping to do some crown on a few vaults this summer. I'm not so scared anymore, can't wait for the final video. Thanks Ron!
I really enjoy your videos it helps to were you go in detail. Thank you sir
I hope everyone has a blessed day!
Thanks Ron. I wish you had provided a link to your crown molding series of videos in the video description. You mentioned it several times in this video and it would have been easier to find it. Great video.
Larry, go to Ron's UA-cam site and go to the Playlist section, then look for crown molding listing. ua-cam.com/play/PLB1ATCukiUGTqS21fwl_JTgIsuEbQHKnL.html
Larry Joffe I linked to the series in part 1, but forgot this time.
I didn't see it in Part 1, I will go look for it. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I'm a union carpenter apprentice and I find your videos very helpful
Thanks Ron
Ron for the peak piece you can glue it with super glue and kicker or pl210 or pl220 I forget the name, but then it sets almost instant and you have a solid test piece
I borrowed a buddies Hitachi 15" mitre saw for a kitchen with double 8" crown facenailed on a finished riser. I was able to cut it nested or bottom up at spring angle. Now I have another vaulted ceilings to do no blocks 😲
Awesome videos, very thorough! Looking forward to part 3!
Very helpful information!
Great explanations...
Yes cutting a vaulted ceilings is easy after 25 years of experience. Saludos
Very informative. Thanks Ron
Hi. Just wondering if you are in the habit of using fastcap's 2p-10 product? It is a life saver for mdf crown! Amongst others...
Off topic... kind of.
Ron do you use the racks on your truck to haul materials? I know you mentioned in the trailer series you always have materials delivered, but didn't know if that was the case for something small like 5 pcs of crown. Just curious as I'm always trying to become more "lean". Thanks.
Ron I’m 35 and have seen the ladders you use but not since I was just starting out in the trades can you still get those and if so where and are they all wooden or do they make aluminum.
To correct him, around 8-9 minutes, he flips the piece and inserts and new template to make the plumb cut... you DONT need to do that unless it helps you. All he needed to do was keep the crown stop in place where it was and cut 13 degrees in the opposite direction while keeping the crown upside down. It would still be the same plumb cut without changing the setup at all.
Thats exactly what I was thinking.
WHY FLIP, leave it set up the way it is.
No S**T, My OCD was kicking in and had me BUMBLE F****D 👍✌
I've watched several of these videos and I've found once you get the hang of crown all these jigs and extra steps are way slower than finding your angle and making the cuts. Start by using these tricks until you get the hang of it and can keep the peice you need in your noggin
HI Clayton. Everyone should pick a way that works best for their workflow. This way is the fastest way I have found when using copes for crown molding. I never measure angles as they just don't matter unless you are flipping the saw for the compound cut. Moving the saw in four directions or flipping long pieces of trim takes me longer than a fixed spring angle set with the wood crown stop and then only swinging the miter Right and Left. Copes take longer to cut but install faster, are tighter and hold up for a lifetime. Inside miters do not stand up over time as the wall ceiling connecting has a differential movement which will pull any standard inside miter apart even if glued. Copes for all inside miters is not an option on my projects. It takes longer to measure angles, set the saw and install, plus the results from chasing angles are not as durable over time. I have personally installed 10s of 1000s of feet of crown molding and have not found a method faster/durable as the one demonstrated here. My goal is to be fast, but not at the sacrifice of durability and tight joints.
Thumbs up. Helpful advice as I could imagine getting all kinds of confused doing this!! Hope manage to fix your sound for next one 😀
I love all of your videos and always learn great ticks from you. I have a question about that peak test piece you cut. Why not just use some cyanoacr cyanoacrylic glue with the activator to glue that test piece? That's how I usually make my test pieces? Also I like to cut both sides of a test piece at exactly 10 incest then I mark the spot and measure to that spot. (I almost always have a helper tho)
I write that number on tee add 20 incest to the wall where the crown will hide it, then write "+ 20"" and the new number.... anyway great video. I love to check and out some videos from a guy with more experience and knowledge and skills, before I start a job. I am a professional Carpenter with a couple of days of experience but I am always trying to learn more and to do it better, faster, and more efficient. Thank you for sharing.
Your a professional carpenter but only have a couple of days of experience? Could you please explain to me how that works? I'm not trying to be funny or nasty I just don't understand how that is possible.
@@garethheathcote4988 It just means I have been doing it for a long time. I am 47 and started as a framing laborer at 17. I have had my journeyman card since 1998, and a B1 license since 2004
At what angle do you cut your vaulted cope side?
If I understand your question, the corner is cut the same as a flat ceiling: 45
Thank you for the reply... my crew and I have been devouring your videos. referring to it like scripture... "but what did Ron say?" But this is the cut we cannot get. We've tried 45° and it just doesn't fit for us. Back to the drawing board :)
I asked this in Part 1. Does this method only work up to about a 6:12 roof?
Yes this won't work on steep vaults you will need to make transition cuts at the corners.
@@TsiRoadkill thanks. I've been waiting 6 years for an answer! 😂
what angle did you move your saw to to do the peak cut
casy casy 18.8 on one side and 13 on the other. Covered this in painful detail in part 1
your right sorry forgot that angle
This will not work with steeper vaults!!!!!!!!!
Exactly. This is trash. Notice how he only shows the corners with small pieces? Anyone with a mind for geometry knows that vaulted ceiling angles are different than flat ceilings.
Extremely long winded
Gawd! So much talking. Some of us learn by watching, not by listening. 2 videos on this and not one piece installed. I'm out.
brianwball40 Brian, not every UA-camr will meet your needs. The good news is that you have a lot of choices. Good luck.
2 parts in and 22 minutes later, still not a single piece of molding attached to the ceiling. Definitely recommend trimming all the talking about theory and just show how to put it up.
Too much talking
3 part series with a total of 45 minutes how many minutes were talking?🤔